Before starting installation work, you must completely free the window opening and the space next to it:
- remove everything from the windowsill,
- remove the curtains,
- clear the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters away from the window.
Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with a cloth or thick oilcloth.
For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through an extension cord, prepare garbage bags.
Dismantling the old frame
After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.
The sashes are removed from the window. Dismantle the window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock off) the slopes.
The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you want to use old windows, for example, in the country, you should specify the option of keeping old windows when ordering.
The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.
PVC window installation
The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed on anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it should be strictly observed that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be level vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.
The gaps between the wall and the frame are covered with polyurethane foam. The foam serves both as an insulating function and as a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, taking into account the degree of expansion of the foam.
Installing a plastic window in most cases means that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is being renovated and the window sill can be installed on its own.
If the window to be mounted opens onto the balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of an ebb (from the outside of the window).
If you have a good old ebb tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will need to be restored (restored) - a paid service, the cost of which is slightly different from the cost of a new ebb tide.
The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the support profile). If the opening under the windowsill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, it is necessary to masonry or seal the opening with mortar. When installing a window sill (window sill), control that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is no more than 60 mm.
When installing the window sill, it should be borne in mind that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.
Advice:when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill is "recessed" by 2 cm under the window frame, therefore the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)
All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and after it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from moisture penetration into it, as well as from damaging solar exposure.
So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for the finishing of the opening, there are not enough slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element that increases the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, moreover, it is the best combination with plastic windows.
Installation of plastic slopes
Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.
Either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable platbands are used as slopes.
The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.
The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. The choice of VEKA plastic slopes is justified for more accurate gluing of wallpaper with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden underneath.
Advice: if you have a renovation in your apartment, then it is better to install the trims on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).
Installing accessories on windows
At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening of additional fittings and components, such as: a stepped ventilator, retainer, mosquito net, blinds, etc.
The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.
Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing PVC windows.
A plastic window is much better in functionality than old wooden windows. If you follow simple instructions for its care and use, it will serve you forever.
Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!
According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removal of the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be carried out after the installation of products and the finishing of the assembly opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.
If repairs are still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.
The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties under heat and UV exposure and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.
General requirements for installation in accordance with GOST
GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions ”was put into effect by the order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.
Due to the need to adjust the design documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST was established until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian norms.
What's new?New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have "Instructions for the installation of windows", approved by local authorities, the need to develop assembly assemblies of windows for each facility under construction and coordination of assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze the thermal fields, as well as provide for the registration of delivery certificates - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acts of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.
Of particular interest in the standards are the Appendices:
- Appendix A (recommended) presents drawings with examples of window installation;
- Appendix B (recommended) sets forth requirements for fastening windows in openings;
- Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows in general and, in fact, is the main working document;
- Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).
In general, the Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.
GOST requires a large number of formalities from window firms and has more requirements for testing joint structures and materials used for them.
Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.
The testing of materials and seams in general is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there have been no detailed installation standards at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, for the consumer there is no need to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the duty of professionals.
Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles of installing windows, which should be paid close attention to.
Three layers of joint
The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings on the basis of the principle "from the inside is denser than from the outside." Each assembly unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection against climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. You can use different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three embedding planes must be present.
Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.
These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. In the best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing strips). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks of the quarter in the opening.
With serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plastering, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not apply to the PSUL.
In limited form, it is possible to use silicone outside. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint to be filled, and the silicone should be glued only on two sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.
A sealant can be used when insulating an assembly seam. Although, it is not clearly spelled out in the GOST, but there is no ban on its use, no matter how much the supporters of mounting tapes want. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anoint with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.
Central layer - heat insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams made specifically for window installations. These foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed once they have set. Other foams, after the installation is completed, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.
Inner layer - vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from moisture vapor penetration into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly based on butyl, are used, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant drywalls. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.
Lack of cold bridges
The assembly seam is a knot where the joining of wall and window structures with completely different properties, including in terms of heat engineering, takes place. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that cold bridges do not appear on the window slopes.
Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of past years (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, there are high heat losses, and secondly, condensate falls out on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then later on these places can form a fungus (mold). The same applies to quarter-cut openings. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here you should especially carefully consider the heating technology of the junction nodes.
An important recommendation is to use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm in the absence of quarters. With a narrow window frame, high-quality seam sealing is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the platband are possible only if there is external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.
If there is an effective insulation in the wall (mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam), the window should stand either in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not arise due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.
Fastening the window unit in the opening
The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by the sun's rays, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As the calculated values \u200b\u200bof thermal expansion for white windows, 1.5 mm per 1 running meter should be used, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored).
In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the extreme fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the inner corners of the frames. The rest of the fasteners are placed along the entire perimeter with a step for white profiles no more than 70 cm, for colored ones no more than 60 cm. Near the imposts, fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due to both thermal expansion of the windows and the fact that it is very difficult to fill a thinner seam with foam insulation evenly.
Carrying blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The pads are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one swivel sash, the pads are placed on the side opposite to the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two flaps, respectively, four pads are placed.
Schematic diagrams of nodes of junction of window boxes to walls
1 - window board;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block for the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - a dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower unit);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant in a thin layer
1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - interior slope finishing panel;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.
Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, showcases, glazing to the entire floor height. These are three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the various wall designs and on the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - the responsible and high-quality work of the installers.
When can you install windows
With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 "On Silence", disturbing the peace of the neighbors is an administrative violation. Please carefully read our instructions for conducting noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.
How much is the installation of windows in accordance with GOST
The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.
The assembly seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of this or that will affect the staging (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.
Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows
Plastic window constructions are rapidly displacing their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decided to replace the old windows with more modern designs, it would not hurt you to read the instructions for self-installation of new PVC windows. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can handle all the tasks yourself?
It is assumed that before starting installation, you have already decided what window size will suit you, what configuration new systems should have, what accessories you will order, etc. Deal with the solution of these issues yourself or with the help of a consultant of the company to which you decided to entrust the production of plastic windows.
Immediately before starting the installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use the method that provides for the use of special fastening "ears".
The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before starting the installation, you will need to remove the swing doors from the frame, and get double-glazed windows from the blind doors.
The second option is more convenient for self-installation - you don't have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.
When choosing the second method, find yourself an intelligent assistant in advance. The assembled window weighs a lot, and it is incredibly difficult to install it yourself.
Preparatory work
Immediately before the installation of PVC windows, you have to complete a number of important preparatory work.
Site preparation
When ordering windows, specify when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the delivery of the windows.
First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.
Step two. Cover the floor and radiators with a protective film or thick cloth.
Step three. Organize your workplace so that nothing bothers you, and everything you need to perform window installation is at hand.
First step. Remove the sashes and disassemble the double-glazed windows if you prefer the fixing method through the frame.
To remove the glass unit, carefully pry the fastening glazing bead using a simple chisel and carefully hit the same chisel with the fasteners out of the groove. Pull out the vertical fixing glazing beads first. Then, in the same order, get rid of the horizontal fasteners.
To avoid confusion in the future, be sure to label the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a fraction of a millimeter difference will be enough for gaps to appear.
Step two. Tilt the window frame. The glass unit will independently come out of the mounting grooves. Carefully place the removed glass unit against a wall or other stable surface at an angle.
Step three. Remove the plugs from the sash canopies and unscrew the fastening bolts. Next, you need to free the upper part of the hinged casement. To do this, turn the knob "for ventilation". Remove the hook located in the lower canopy.
As a result, you will end up with a "bare" frame with jumpers.
Fourth step. Prepare anchor holes from the inside of the window frame. Place the holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 attachment points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.
The diameter of the window anchors is 0.8-1 cm. Use a drill of the same diameter to create the holes.
If the plastic window is to be fixed using special "ears", the disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame using screws.
Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window
Window dismantling instructions
First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.
Step two. File the box and frame at several points.
Step three. Pry each part of the structure with a crowbar and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find the two hundred nails, due to which the window is held, and pull them out.
Fourth step. Remove any insulation and sealing materials that appear under the box.
Fifth step. Dismantle old slopes with a hammer drill. If the slopes are in good condition, do not touch them. At this point, focus on your plans for the further design of the slopes.
Sixth step. Pry up and dismantle the old window sill.
Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the windowsill and at the bottom of the window opening. A puncher will help you with this.
Eighth step. Collect construction waste in suitable containers and dispose of in the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.
Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening, clean them of dirt. Prime the surfaces.
Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the opening. In some situations, it is necessary to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.
If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced using a cement screed. In this moment, focus on the conditions of your specific situation.
Setting up and pinning a new window
Proceed with installing a pre-prepared window.
First step. Place special plastic underlays or wooden blocks on the bottom end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates so that their upper edges are connected in a straight horizontal line.
Substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.
Step two. Place the “bare” or assembled frame on the substrates, depending on the window installation method you have chosen. There is no need to dismantle the substrates, they will continue to perform their supporting function.
Without substrates, the window can simply fall out. Anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still loosen under the weight of the structure. Therefore, for additional strengthening of the system, the substrates must be placed not only at the bottom, but also along the side edges, closer to the top of the opening.
Step three. Check the horizontal placement of the window structure using an ordinary water level.
If deviations are found, pick up the pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.
Fourth step. Check the vertical installation of the window. The detected deviations are eliminated as in the previous step.
Fifth step. Proceed with anchoring the window according to the chosen fixing method.
Fastening by the method "through the frame"
First step. Take a punch and straight through the holes prepared in advance in the frame, drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall.
Step two. Secure the bottom of the structure on both sides. To do this, you need to insert and fix the anchor, but you do not need to complete the fastening immediately to the end.
Step three. Make sure the window is positioned vertically. Correct the deviations immediately using the pattern you are already familiar with. If everything is ok, use a punch to drill holes in the center and top of the window frame. Insert and tighten the anchor. Information about the required number of fasteners was given earlier.
Fourth step. Recheck the alignment of the window. Get rid of deviations immediately if they are found.
Fifth step. Tighten the anchor fully. Do not overtighten them as the frame can be deformed from excessive tension.
Video - How to install a PVC window
Plate fixing
In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and look like "ears". Holes for anchors are initially provided in such elements.
With this mounting method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The "ear" of the plate should fit as tightly as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.
Fastening is done with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: bottom first, then top and middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the placement of the structure. Without observing the vertical and horizontal levels, your window will simply deform over time.
Assembly and final check of the window
After securing all the anchors, go to the window assembly, if you originally disassembled it. The process is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
First step. Insert double-glazed windows into the window frame and fix them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally at the sides. A rubber mallet will help you to snap the glazing beads.
Step two. Reattach and secure the swing leaves accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling.
Make sure the flaps move normally. In its normal state, the sash does not make any unauthorized movements when it is opened at 45 degrees and 90 degrees.
Step three. Complete the test and seal existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special polyurethane foam in cylinders.
On this, the main work on the hand-made installation of PVC windows is considered complete. In the end, you just have to install a plumb line, a window sill, a mosquito net and make the slopes at your discretion.
Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dedusting
Installation of a window sill Laying out cement mortar
Installation of a window sill. Wetting with water. Dedusting
Installation of a window sill. Alignment. Grout
Installation of a window sill. Drying
Installation of a window sill. Finished work
Successful installation work!
Until 2003, the installation of pvc windows and balcony blocks was not regulated by the state. The window installers were guided by the technology suggested by the manufacturers of these structures. It is difficult to judge whether it was wrong or not. But the number of complaints about freezing, blowing and leaking frames exceeded the permissible limits. In order to eliminate these problems, GOST 3071-2002 was adopted at the beginning of March 2003, and the installation of windows in accordance with GOST became mandatory.
What is the installation of a pvc window in accordance with GOST
The introduction of a document regulating the installation of window seams and abutments caused, in due time, a lot of disputes and disagreements. The window installation companies were unhappy with the upcoming costs of purchasing additional materials and increased labor costs.
The fact is that the state standard has approved several standards that require the use of materials in the installation that have not previously been used, or have been reluctant to apply. This led to an increase in the cost of the work of the performers and, accordingly, the consumer. Which, it was believed, could lead to a decrease in demand for window services.
But the alarms were in vain. Consumers were the first to appreciate the benefits of GOST. This is not surprising, since the document is fully focused on improving the operating conditions of window and balcony blocks. What are these improvements?
- Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST with steam and waterproofing of gaps. The document gave a definition of an assembly seam with an indication of the materials required for its device. Now the correct seam should consist of three layers: outer, waterproof and vapor-permeable.
- Recommended clearance parameters are indicated.
- Requirements for surface preparation are determined.
- The rules of acceptance have been established.
- The maximum permissible distances between the attachment points are indicated. For a plastic profile, this is 70 mm.
- A list of actions for testing the quality of structures is given.
- The service life of the materials used is indicated: at least 20 years.
Such an important element of the window structure as the ebb was not ignored. According to GOST, now it is protected from below with a diffusion tape made of polyester. This ensures that the metal sheet is firmly fixed to the wall and box. The presence of a tape on the lower plane of the ebb significantly reduces the noise from rain drops.
Application of standards in practice
Since March 2003, the installers began to work in accordance with the accepted standards. But the consumer, unfamiliar with the intricacies of these works, inevitably has a question: what does the installation of a window in accordance with GOST mean? Knowing the answers will help you track the correctness of the installation being performed and make sure of its quality. The first thing to be aware of: all seams of the window block should now consist of three parts.
- The central one is made of polyurethane foam with high frost resistance and moisture resistance.
- Outer - made of waterproofing tape.
- Internal - made of vapor barrier tape.
The basic principle of installation can be explained as follows: the inner part of the seam must have low thermal conductivity, and the side parts protecting it must be steam-permeable. In this case, if moisture penetrates to the polyurethane foam, it will freely come out in the form of steam and will not harm the insulation layer (polyurethane foam).
Installation benefits
There are several advantages over a conventional professional installation. But they are all so important that it is unwise to ignore them.
- If all the standards of the State Standard are observed, freezing and leakage of the seams are excluded. Consequently, and window frames.
- The possibility of the formation of fungus and mold is excluded.
- The insulating layer (polyurethane foam) is protected from moisture and will not collapse ahead of time. If installed incorrectly, without protective tapes, yellowing of the foam can be observed. Under the influence of moisture, its structure becomes loose and destruction processes begin. Such foam loses its thermal insulation properties with all the consequences: the windows begin to freeze, leak, and are no longer a reliable barrier to the wind.
- The ebb is connected to the wall frame more tightly, which provides an additional thermal insulation effect and increases the service life of the window block.
There is another important advantage of complying with the Gosstandart requirements. If the consumer remains dissatisfied with the quality of installation and orders the service of an independent examination, the company that installed this window, at best, faces re-installation. And the worst is a lot of expenses.
Materials required when installing windows
Among the installers of plastic windows GOST 3071-2012 received the name "tape". This is due to the fact that in accordance with the requirements of this document, it is necessary to protect the seams with "ribbons" - narrow in width products: vapor barrier, self-expanding and diffusion.
Materials for installing plastic windows in accordance with GOST:
- pSUL tapes (self-expanding sealing);
- GPL (vapor barrier), made of butyl rubber or aluminum foil, for internal protection of seams;
- diffusion polyester for external protection.
PSUL tapes are self-expanding material and are sold in rolls. When installing, it is extremely important to choose the degree of expansion of the tape... This indicator is always indicated on the packaging. So, for gaps with a width of 10 mm, you need to choose a tape with an expansion range of 30-40 units. The most popular brands of tapes are Profband, PSUL-EUROBAND, Liplent, Robiband.
Polyethylene tape GPL (hydro-vapor barrier) is made on the basis of foamed rubber. On one side there is an adhesive base, in the middle there is a vapor-permeable material, on the other side there is a laminated base and inserts made of metallized material (foil). The purpose of these tapes is to reflect heat back into the room, and to protect the foam from moisture. Popular brands: TYTAN Professional, KLEBEBANDER, "Hermetik-Abris".
Diffusion tapes are placed under the ebb in order to protect the seam from moisture on the outside of the window. These materials are also made from butyl rubber, but they have two glue bases: on each side. Therefore, the protective material adheres firmly to both the ebb and the opening. Popular brands: HAUSER, Robiband, Ultima, WS.
Installation technology in accordance with GOST
Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2012, the step-by-step technology of which is proposed, can be done independently.
Step 1: Use a stiff bristled brush or paintbrush to sweep away dust and debris.
Step 2. The seams between the bricks are leveled with a moisture resistant putty.
Step 3. Cover the filler with a layer of primer.
Step 4. Open the window block and remove the sash.
Step 5. At the bottom of the frame, remove the support profile.
Step 6. Glue PSUL at the junction of the frame and the support profile.
Step 7. If installing a balcony block, remove the docking profile from the outside of the frame. At the junction with the opening, the PSUL tape is glued along the entire perimeter. If a window is installed, the tape is immediately glued around its perimeter.
Step 8. Take a simple pencil and tape measure. They mark the attachment points on the PVC profile. In accordance with the requirements of the standard, the distance between these points should not exceed 70 cm. The hole should be 150-180 mm from the corner of the frame.
Step 9. Drill holes. The drill diameter should be less than the diameter of the bolt or self-tapping screw.
Step 10. Support blocks are installed on the opening, which will be located under the frame.
Step 11. Insert the frame and fix with self-tapping screws.
Step 12. From the side of the street, mark the places of attachment of the PSUL.
Step 13. Remove the frame and with a shift of 0.5 cm from the marking, stick the PSUL.
Step 14. Install the starting profile for the slopes on the frame.
Step 15. From the inside, glue the frame with GPL tape.
Step 16. Install the frame, align. Drill holes in the wall for dowels and perform the final fixation.
Step 17. Install the sash.
Step 18. Fill the seam with polyurethane foam.
Step 19. After 15-20 minutes, the HPL tape is leveled along the slopes.
Step 20. The GPL is installed under the windowsill.
Step 21. Carry out the installation of the window sill.
Step 22. A diffusion tape is installed under the ebb.
Step 23. Fix the ebb.
Installing a window in accordance with GOST according to GOST, the instructions for which are given above, is an easy task. If you comply with all the requirements of the State Standard, the window openings will be reliably insulated and sealed.
P.S. And for dessert I suggest watching a video clip: Window installation in accordance with GOST
Today, PVC windows have become very common, and with them the companies that install them have gained wide popularity.
However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.
Step-by-step instructions for installing windows
The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:
- Dismantling of old windows.
- Preparatory measures for the installation of a new window.
- Installation of the support profile.
- Fastening the fasteners to the frame of the new window.
- Creation of special grooves for these fasteners in the wall.
- Direct window installation and alignment.
- Fixing PVC.
- Filling all joints with polyurethane foam.
- Window sill installation and alignment.
- Fastening of slopes.
- Adjustment of window fittings.
- Ebb installation.
I must say that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:
- Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
- Preparing to install the opening.
- DIY PVC window preparation.
- Direct mounting.
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Measurements and calculations
Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:
- has a quarter;
- does not have a quarter.
A quarter is a special part of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.
If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm below for the window sill.
I must also say that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.
As for the opening, which has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.
In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be taken along the narrowest place.
There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and the window sill. In most cases, the windows are installed by removing them a third deeper into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows with your own hands allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.
I just need to say that both the ebb and the window sills should have 5 cm more than the result of measurements.
As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone in case of an unsuccessful first attempt.
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Making a window opening
So, when all the calculations are over and the sizes of all components are known, you can start preparing the place where the product will be installed.
First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done in various ways. If you are dealing with an old wooden window, then it is better to do this:
- First, remove all the glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or carnations holding them.
- Then remove any nails or glazing beads that hold the frame itself.
- Remove the frame.
Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that very often old windows were simply nailed to the windowsill through the frame. In the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.
It should be noted that the foam adheres best to fresh wood, so the old layer must be removed, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or grinder with a grinding wheel.
Of course, this should only be done in wood niches.
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New window preparation process
It must be said right away that some professional workers who have installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do it without disassembling them. As for independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.
It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. For this, a pin is removed, which is located in the upper hinge. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by gently picking up and pushing out. After removing the pin, the sash is easily removed from the lower hinge. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and shifted to the side with a smooth movement.
I must say that such procedures must be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.
From the outside of the frame, it is necessary to remove the protective film, so that later there will be no difficulties with this.
Then it is necessary to apply a markup, that is, to indicate the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. The minimum distance from the attachment point to the corner should be at least 15 cm.
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Installation methods for PVC windows
It must be said right away that the choice of the method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of doors and chambers in a glass unit. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and only depend on the material from which the walls are made.
So, the installation of PVC windows can be carried out in one of two ways:
- on anchor bolts or dowels;
- using special fixing fittings.
Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of the corresponding dimensions are drilled.
Installation with these fasteners is ideal when it comes to concrete, block or brick walls.
As for the fixing fittings, they are usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.
The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed in a spacer against the wall. Themselves such plates are attached using conventional screws.
If there is a desire to install the plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid unnecessary work associated with the subsequent alignment of slopes.
Very often builders in the process of installing windows use both methods at once, which is also permissible.
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Installation technology
Window installation begins with inserting a prepared frame or the entire window into a niche. Before that, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners around the entire perimeter. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.
The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as in relation to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these same corners.
Spacer wedges or corners are best placed under the frame attachment points.
This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of attachment.
Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fasteners used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:
- If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in to the end, but only so as to slightly "bait" it.
- Marks are made on concrete or brick walls through the same holes. Further, the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled in place of the marks. Then the frame is set in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
- In the case when the fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they just need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.
After preliminary installation, it is necessary to check the verticality and horizontalness of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional building hydraulic level or a plumb bob.
After checking, the frame is fully secured. In this case, the anchors do not tighten too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1mm.
Then you should attach all the window parts dismantled at the preparatory stage, that is, glass or sash. They must be adjusted after installation.
All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. It often happens that the window is smaller than the opening so that there is a gap between them larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it is allowed to completely fill it with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.
When the gap is more than 7 cm (except for the case specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. A cement mortar is also suitable.
The ebb is installed on the foam. Additionally, it is fastened with self-tapping screws to this profile, if used, or to wooden blocks.
The ebb is installed with a slope from the window.
After the foam dries, you can start installing the window sill. It starts 2 cm under the "sweet clover". I must say that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done in order to prevent the ingress of moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, its installation is also carried out on polyurethane foam.
After all the installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.
The popularity of plastic window systems is determined by the great advantages in comparison with traditional wooden frames: better sealing and, therefore, heat capacity, no need to restore the sashes every year, ease of use. Even the cost of PVC windows, due to the advantages, does not seem unbearable - this is a long-term investment. Save money on the purchase, possibly with the help of self-assembly, which does not require the purchase of special equipment. But a thorough understanding of the installation process is required - further, how to properly install plastic windows with your own hands.
Installing a PVC window - step by step instructions
Technological openings in apartments and houses are different in size, shape and other characteristics. In order to ideally install a high-quality glass unit in the future, a number of measures are required before installationotherwise there is a risk of disappointment in their own work. Ideally, the installation of windows is done by the manufacturer of the structure. Only in this way, in the event of a marriage, can a replacement or compensation be required. If you want to save money, then it is important to consider the question of how to install a plastic window correctly. Let's consider step by step.
Measurements of window openings
Window openings rarely differ in a perfectly regular shape - deviations in width and height differ significantly. The final result and long-term operation will depend on how correctly the calculations are made.
How to make window measurements correctly:
- Opening width... Determined by the formula: the distance between the extreme points is 2 of the thickness of the assembly seam. The width must be measured using several points - from below, from above, in the middle. If the difference is significant, choose the smallest parameter.
- Opening height... Formula: distance between extreme points - 2 seam thickness - profile height. Similar to the width, the height is measured at several points.
Important: for an accurate measurement result, use a plumb line - a string with a load, and a level - a water or laser level. They will accurately show the curvature of the opening.
- Low tide length and width... The first one can be "copied" from the old + 0.5 cm to the bend or add an allowance to the measured width of the window opening. The width is calculated depending on the distance of the wall edge to the mounting plane (depending on the construction material of the house or apartment, the parameters may vary) + allowance.
- Window sill width the most difficult. It is calculated as follows: the distance from the edge of the inner part of the wall to the installation site + outreach outside the wall by 1/3 of the heating radiator - the thickness of the plastic window frame.
- Last executed measuring slopes, then when the installation of the glass unit is completed. The width is calculated after installing the plastic window, the length is equal to the height + an allowance of 0.5 cm.
Opening preparation for installation
It is impossible to start immediately dismantling the old frame. Even when the exact delivery time of the insulating glass unit is known, there is no certainty that for some reason the structures will not be delayed on the way. Only when the blocks are in the apartment, they begin to manipulate them. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows should take place in dry, calm weather, with air temperature not lower than -5⁰С... For cold weather, special foam is required.
Stages of preparation for the installation of PVC windows:
- Spaces around the windows are freed of furniture so that work is done quickly, without delays and inconvenience in movement.
- Dismantle old frames. Most likely, they have cracked, and it will not be difficult to remove the sash from the hinges. You will have to tinker with the window frame - in old houses they were fixed on long and thick nails. You will need a mount to work.
- It is important to free the opening from the old insulation, sealant and sealing - the leftovers can affect the installation of a new glass unit, interfering with an even and stable position.
- The window sill and the old cement screed under it, which plays the role of a substrate, are removed. The area around the windows is cleaned of fine construction dust. The trash is taken out in advance and thus the dirty part of the job is finished.
Important: old plastic double-glazed windows are removed in a different way.
The structure must be disassembled, otherwise pulling out will damage the walls. First, using a chisel, remove the glazing beads to remove the glass. Further, by turning the handle of the sash to the ventilation mode, the hook of the lower canopy is released and the sash is removed. In the same way, new double-glazed windows are disassembled before insertion. The work is not carried out alone - double-glazed windows are heavy and difficult to keep. In addition, the fit will be, more precisely, if you work together.
Methods for installing PVC windows
The traditional way of installing a PVC glass unit is fasteners through the frame with self-tapping screws... Such window options are somewhat cheaper, since additional components are purchased independently. The advantage of the method is reliability - additional holes can be drilled, the structure can be precisely adjusted.
The second way is considered reinforcement of the PVC window structure with "native" fittings - spacer mounting plates. They come with a glass unit. Minus - leveling of the wall is required before foaming, otherwise the consumption of the composition will increase. Experts do not consider this method reliable, since the structure is fixed only on the counter force of the struts and foam. In addition, there are few of them, up to 5 pieces - the manufacturers do not take into account the fact that the opening may differ in curvature and other defects.
The choice of mounting foam for PVC windows is described in detail, as well as a comparison of products from different manufacturers.
Depending on the building material of the walls - brick, aerated concrete or wood - the installation of PVC windows differs, due to the different density of raw materials and its physical properties. So, for composite blocks and wood, it is required to carry out waterproofing work, and for natural material also reinforcement in the form of a box.
Installation of a plastic window in a brick house
Before the installation of plastic windows with your own hands in a brick house takes place, it is required strengthen the support profile... It is attached to anchors or screws.
- Pre-drilled holes in the frame and along the perimeter of the opening. According to the rules, the distance between the fastening points is 40 cm. The points from the impost are set aside in both directions.
- When the frame with holes is ready, it is inserted into the opening, having previously placed bars as a technological gap, and the drilling points are already marked on the walls. Further, the structure is removed and the holes are prepared. A sealing tape is glued to the frame itself around the perimeter to increase the heat capacity of the room. If the dimensions are such that the tape interferes with free installation, it is glued after the frame has been installed.
- It remains to re-install the frame, precisely adjusting it and "fix" the fasteners, without screwing it all the way in. If the position is satisfied, then fixation begins around the perimeter. Immediately, it is impossible to tightly screw in any self-tapping screw or anchor bolt - this will cause a skew of the entire structure.
- Next, they assemble a double-glazed window - hang the sashes, strengthen the glazing beads. The gaps can now be blown out with foam. Due to the different indoor and outdoor climates, it is recommended to lay the installation mortar less tightly from the street side and qualitatively, in two layers, from the inside.
- When the foam polymerizes, a window sill is installed, leading the edge 2 cm under the clover. Ebb tides are installed on the same day in the same way as a window sill. For this, an aluminum version is used - the most resistant to weather conditions. According to preliminary measurements, the structure is cut out. The area is prepared by sealing it with silicone sealant along the edge adjacent to the frame. Then the ebb is screwed onto self-tapping screws or special fasteners, leading it under the window.
Important: blowing foam under the tide must not be missed. This will protect it from damage due to the loads of the structure, water and melted snow.
- Installing plastic slopes is simple, but measurements must be accurate - it is better if this work is done by a professional. Further, the plates are cut out and tried on to the surfaces of the concrete slopes, marking the fixation points. Polyurethane foam is applied to them, and the part is pressed against the wall, wound behind the frame. After polymerization, all gaps are filled with foam. To make the interior view of the window pleasing to the owners, the joints and corners of the window sill and slopes are made out with plastic corners.
It is not recommended to operate the window directly. To keep the structure strong for a long time, at least 20 hours must pass... How does the installation of plastic windows do it yourself - the video below will help you.
The difference between installing PVC windows in a wooden and aerated concrete opening
Natural building material is characterized by shrinkage, which affects the change in the window opening and the design of glass units, up to the extrusion of the frame and cracks. Therefore, the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house (video below) is different from the traditional one. To prevent destruction from happening, it is recommended to assemble a wooden box for the PVC window, which, in turn, is installed as follows:
- The height of the box is 10–12 cm below the opening. If we take into account 1–2 cm of shrinkage per year, then over time it will not have a significant effect on the frame.
- In the opening, a groove is hollowed out along the ends of the log or timber and compacted with felt. Bars are installed in the middle, without any fasteners - they must fit tightly and subsequently move along with the wooden frame.
- The box is fixed in the opening, screwing the screws through the boards only into the bars, without touching the ends.
- Further, the installation of PVC windows with your own hands is carried out in a similar way to the described method of installation in a brick house. The only difference is that the sealing tape is glued to the wooden frame, and not to the plastic one.
To install a window into a house made of aerated concrete, one should remember about the high hydrophobicity of a porous building material, and in addition to sealing, sealing of the entire opening is also required. And the installation of plastic windows in a house made of aerated concrete does not differ from installation in a brick or wooden opening.
Adjusting fittings
In order for the operation of the installed window to take place without problems, you should adjust fittings - clamping hinges, plates. For example:
- Drafts are stopped by adjusting the eccentrics or pressure plates. They are shifted clockwise with a key by 2 mm.
- The special position of the pins - to the right or to the left - will transfer the windows to winter or summer modes - this is stated in the instructions.
- In order for the sealing tape to remain elastic, it must be lubricated with pure glycerin once a year.