How are plastic windows mounted? How to properly install a plastic window

Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are used to equip ordinary apartments, country houses, and chic country houses. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen installation method and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The window installation technology is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements that the installation technology dictates.

Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows

Correct installation of new windows requires accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in aerated concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. Subtract 30 mm from the measured width. Along the contour of the opening, leave 15 mm gaps for foaming. In accordance with the current GOST, 20 mm should be left around the perimeter. Leave an additional 35 mm at the bottom under the sill.

If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest place. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.

As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 inward from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can shift the structure to any side convenient for him. Think about the offset in advance and take this parameter into account when ordering an ebb and a window sill.

Add 50 mm to the widths of the ebb and the window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window. When calculating the width of the window sill, consider additionally such an indicator as the location of the battery.

The sill should cover the radiator by half. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the PVC window base. The length margin must be at least 80 mm. But it is better not to save too much and add 150 mm, so that in the future you can beautifully cut the window sill without any problems. Along with the ebb and the window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. There is no need to give them up.

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Which way to attach the frame to choose?

Installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamberness of the glass unit, or on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can only change taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. A suitable fastening and installation method for PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To anchor the window structure, you can use:

1. Dowels or anchors that cut into the walls through the existing or previously prepared through holes in the profile.
2. Serrated plates. They are pressed into profile. The bullet is fastened to the wall and fixed with screws.

Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of a through fastening, the window will normally withstand the multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and folding window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.

Those who install windows with deaf double-glazed windows, i.e. without pivoting and flap sashes, installation using anchor plates will be more interesting. These products are hidden under the slopes, so that they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of bricks or concrete, then it is recommended to pre-prepare small indentations for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer in front of the slope device.

Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Anchors are deepened into the walls through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized self-tapping screws are more preferable.

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What does the owner of a wooden house need to know?

The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences are reduced only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, there are some important rules to remember. Firstly, it is recommended to start installing PVC windows in a wooden house no earlier than a year later, and even better 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest size and shrinkage period. Secondly, the windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must be free from any defects, signs of insect and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic.

After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but it is no longer as strong. After the installation of PVC windows and the completion of finishing work, it will also occur. That is why a gap of 30-70 mm must be left at the top between the box and the opening. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and moisture content of the building materials. After the installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.

Building codes do not set any clear guidelines for materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard drips are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be resting directly on the wooden sill, i.e. you can install this product, if desired, before installing the window. Or you may not get rid of the old window sill if it is well preserved.

Experienced builders give a very useful recommendation, which is not in the regulatory documents, but it will be useful to any person who decides to perform an independent installation of PVC windows. The wood is vapor permeable. If you do not take any action on this matter, these fumes will gradually deteriorate the properties of the polyurethane foam. And to prevent the foam from wetting, a polyethylene foam tape should be glued along the line of its application.

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Preparing the opening and window for installation

Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Foam gun and foam directly.
3. Level.
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. Perforator.
6. Hex key set.
7. Pencil.
8. Yardstick.
9. Stationery knife.

After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally shave off the top layer if the new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.

Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the slots are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of a bar, you can use pieces of the same bar.

First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the upper hinge. You can carefully pick it up with a screwdriver or pliers. Then remove the sash from the lower hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the glass unit from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Glazing beads can be easily removed with a spatula or wide knife. It is enough to insert the auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to move it gradually. Be careful not to damage the glass.

If the window is small, you can insert it using the mounting plates without the need to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory structure, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.

Never lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also prohibited to put them skewed. Even the smallest pebble under the base can cause a crack in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. Better to do it right away, because in the future, this process will require much more effort.

Mark the locations for the fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners with a step of 40 cm. In accordance with the current GOST, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you are installing a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.

Most instructions indicate that fixation must be performed with PSUL protective tape prior to installation. However, practice shows that it is rather inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the completion of the installation, nothing terrible will happen because of this.

Have you decided to replace your old wooden windows with plastic ones? Of course, it is better to entrust this matter to professionals, since the installation of plastic windows carries many nuances, if not observed, the windows may not retain heat, be not airtight, close poorly and fog up. If you are sure that you can cope with this task, then we will tell you about the nuances of installing PVC windows in this article.

The content of the article:

Organizational matters

The advantage of self-installation of plastic windows is that you yourself will do it much more scrupulously than most installation teams, who sin by non-compliance with GOST when installing windows. But again, we repeat that if you have never seen clearly and are not familiar with the process of installing plastic windows, order the installation from specialists.

When is it better to install plastic windows

It is best to replace windows in the warm season, from May to September. Perform installation work in dry weather; in rainy weather, this is highly discouraged. Many are interested in the question: are plastic windows installed in winter? It is possible to install plastic windows in winter, but this is not recommended for a number of reasons. If you bought a new apartment and plan to move into it as soon as possible, or you are doing repairs in the apartment in which you live, then it is illogical to delay repairs solely because of the windows, to make repairs now and install windows in six months is even more illogical, since part of what has been done repairs will go down the drain, and leaving old windows while doing repairs is wrong. Installation of windows in winter is allowed at temperatures not lower than -5 degrees. In addition, it is also not recommended to install plastic windows in extremely hot weather. An important aspect when replacing windows is not only their installation, but also the correct measurement and the right choice.

Measurement of plastic windows

Before you go to buy a window, you need to measure the window opening, based on these dimensions, place an order or buy a finished window. The advantage of ordering a window is that a window will be made to your size, as for the purchase of ready-made windows, they are made according to standard sizes, which are not always ideal for specific window openings.

So, the measurement of the window must be done as follows. To begin with, the window opening is measured from the inside in width, from the base of the wall, so if you have slopes on your windows, then they must be dismantled in order to make an accurate measurement. Then it is necessary to measure the height of the window opening, taking into account the type of window sill. If the house is panel, then in such houses the window sill, as a rule, is part of the slab, so a new window will be installed on it, if the window sill is removable, then it is necessary to measure from the base of the slab itself. After that, you need to try to measure the depth of the window opening, for this you may need to beat off some of the plaster or remove the wooden plank from the side parts of the window.

As for measurements from the outside, here we first measure the width and height of the window opening, then again you will need to beat off some of the plaster or cement in order to measure the depth of the opening between the window and the wall with a knife. If possible, also remove the ebb: check if there is a border at the bottom of the window opening or if the surface is solid.

As you can imagine, the window itself cannot fit right into the window opening, since it needs space to narrow and expand, depending on temperature fluctuations. As for the gaps, their minimum size should be as follows:

• For windows up to 1m 20cm - 15mm indent;


• For windows up to 2m 20cm - 20mm;


• For windows up to 3m - 25mm.

When measuring, take into account also the fact that the window itself should go into the window opening only a few centimeters, that is, so that there is at least 4 cm from the edges of the glass unit and the sash, so that the glass unit is not in the wall, and slopes can be made normally. Having received the dimensions of the window and the so-called window edging, we take into account the indicated nuances and obtain the size of the window profile. After that, make an order for the manufacture of a window, or buy ready-made, also order along with this: a handle, a mosquito net (fasteners), a window sill and an ebb.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

When you have purchased a window and the weather is good outside, let's get down to work. Please note that all work will be very dusty, so either remove all things from the room, or cover them with film. We begin work by dismantling old windows, for this use a hammer, pry bar and chisel. First you need to remove the window or the smaller sash, after which the large sash is dismantled. Next, using a hacksaw or jigsaw, it is necessary to saw in half the partition between the doors and pull it out of the frame. Then we cut a part of the frame in half from below, after which we make its further dismantling.

When the frame is dismantled, using a hammer and a chisel or using a puncher, knock down irregularities and make grooves on the sides so that the window sill goes a little into the wall. Immediately before installing the plastic window, you need to thoroughly clean the window opening from debris and slightly moisten it. After that, we proceed to the preparation of the window profile and to its installation.

Installation of plastic windows

Before installing the profile, you need to remove the sashes and pull the double-glazed windows out of the blind parts of the window. We remove the protective tapes from the outer part of the profile and put on the decorative caps in the drain holes. Using self-tapping screws, we fix the fasteners for the mosquito net.

Many old sources do not mention this, but today the technology of installing plastic windows has changed a bit, and one more item has been added to it: profile insulation. These actions were included in the process of installing plastic windows due to the fact that most people, even with proper installation in compliance with all the rules, formed moisture (condensation) and fungus on the windows, as a result of which the profile froze. Thanks to this action, all the negative consequences that were observed earlier should not appear.

For a tighter and more tight fit of the profile to the window opening, the perimeter of the profile from the outside is pasted over with a vapor-tight self-expanding sealing tape. Then the side parts of the profile from all sides (closer to the inside of the window) are pasted over with vapor barrier tapes based on butyl. From above, on the side of the profile, you can stick a seal made of self-expanding tape, after which, if necessary, a starting or expansion profile is attached. After the insulation work, we proceed to the installation of the profile.

What to attach the plastic window to: mounting plates or anchors

There are two options for fixing PVC windows during their installation: on anchors and on plates. It is impossible to say specifically and unequivocally which of these two types of fastening is the best, since each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. In view of the fact that fastening is the most important component of installing a plastic window, and the fact that beginners who want to install plastic windows with their own hands are interested in this issue, we will consider this issue in more detail, with your permission.

So, first of all, when choosing the type of fastening of plastic windows, it is necessary to focus on the type of walls. That is, if you have a panel or brick house, then you are not limited in the choice of the type of window fastening, but if you want to install plastic windows in a new building or in a country house, which are built from foam blocks or aerated blocks, then the windows must be fastened exclusively to assembly plates.

The biggest disadvantage of fastening windows to anchors is the so-called depressurization of the profile. As you know, there are several chambers inside the profile, which are separated from each other. Thanks to these chambers, the profile "keeps" the temperature, since, for example, in winter the coldest chamber is located on the outside of the window, and in each subsequent chamber the temperature is slightly higher. In the outermost chamber, which is located on the inner side, the temperature is several degrees higher in winter than in the first chamber, due to which there is no temperature difference in the profile. In principle, the meaning is clear that due to this structure and the tightness of the chambers, they retain heat in the profile.

When the profile is fixed with anchors, it is drilled through, as a result of which the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening plastic windows to anchors requires more time, accuracy and skill, so this is not the best fastening option for beginners. If the profile is incorrectly fastened, it can lead, and if this happens, the window will be largely damaged, since this is fraught with gaps between the glass unit and the profile, and loose closing of the window sash. The advantage of fastening plastic windows with anchors is that the structure will be more durable, that is, strong winds will not cause the profile to vibrate, and the likelihood that the structure will sag strongly after installation is reduced.

As for the fastening of plastic windows to the mounting plates, it is much easier, moreover, it will save a lot of time and the cameras in the profile will not be depressurized, which is very important. The disadvantage of fastening windows to mounting plates is insufficient structural strength, that is, the window may shake slightly, but this will be insignificant. However, mounting plates are the easiest way for beginners to mount a plastic window.

Some installers, when installing plastic windows, use both of these types of fasteners at the same time. What type of window fastening to use is up to you. If you decide to fasten the profile to the mounting plates, then we fasten them to the profile with self-tapping screws, but if it is decided to fasten the profile with anchors - with a drill or a punch, then first make holes in the profile.

From each corner, at a distance of 120-150mm, the first fasteners are made, then subsequent fasteners are made with a step of 700mm. There must be at least 3 fasteners on each side.

Profile attachment

Before placing the profile in the window opening with a level, check the planes of all sides of the opening. Then, using hardwood blocks or plastic liners, we lift the profile and adjust it vertically. Vertical adjustment is made from the top of the window opening, that is, from below you need to raise the profile using the named materials. Then we align the profile horizontally. Pre-fix the profile in the window opening on the sides and on top using wooden blades. When the profile is leveled from all sides, inspect it to see if everything is correct, and proceed to fix it.

To fix the profile to the mounting plates, first use one gouge-nail at a time. Then once again check the evenness of the profile using a level and then fix each mounting plate with a second dowel-nail. If you fix the window on the anchor, then through the holes made in advance, using a perforator, make holes in the wall, screw the anchor, but do not tighten them, firstly, you need to check the evenness of the window with a level, and secondly, tighten the anchor slowly so that do not violate the geometry of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we take out the wooden blades from the sides and upper part, the lower ones remain - they are the basis of the profile.

Low tide

The next stage of work is the installation of the low tide. We measure the low tide and use metal scissors to adjust it to the required dimensions. Then a vapor-proof tape is glued from the bottom of the frame, which will protect the seam between the wall and the bottom of the window, under the ebb. When the tape is glued, we apply a layer of polyurethane foam on top of it, and another layer on the edge of the board to ensure the sealing and soundproofing of the ebb. The ebb fits into the grooves of the profile and is fixed with special screws.

Seam sealing

Next, using special foam for installing windows, we blow out the assembly seam between the wall and the profile: first on the left side, then on the right, then - at the top. The peculiarity of this polyurethane foam is the absence of expansion, which is very convenient for installation - the foam fills the cracks, but does not bloat unnecessarily. Beforehand, the surface of the wall can be slightly moistened. After a few minutes, when the foam has dried up a little and expanded, we glue the second part of the insulation tape on top of it on the wall.

Installation of sashes and double-glazed windows

Remove the protective tape from the inside of the window first. When installing a double-glazed window, use special pads so that it evenly covers the opening. Then, using the strips, fix the glass unit, you can hammer the fixing strips into the grooves using a rubberized hammer. After installing the sash and fixing it in the awnings, fix the handle and adjust the sash itself vertically and horizontally. At the very end, a mosquito net is installed.

Windowsill

Then we move on to the pre-final part - the installation of the window sill. Foam well the lower assembly seam and glue a vapor barrier tape over it. The next thing to do is to install wooden blocks on which the window sill will be laid. The pads must be at least 10cm in length. The level of the blocks should be such that the window sill is firmly pressed against the bottom of the profile. One more nuance - the window sill should have an inclination towards the room of no more than 5 degrees. Please note that the window sill should not cover the battery, otherwise the heat from it will not spread to the window. It is unnecessary to fasten the window sill to the mounting plates, as well as to special clips: the method proposed by us will ensure a strong and reliable fastening of the window sill. Check if the window sill is tightly held, and then sing it from below, preferably with foam, which expands. At the end of this stage of work, place a 5-liter water bottle on the windowsill to fix it.

Video instruction for self-assembly of plastic windows

In order for you to clearly see the process of installing a plastic window, we recommend watching the videos below.

This video briefly describes what you need to pay attention to when installing plastic windows.

The PLASTOK company manufactures windows and installs them according to the highest standards in accordance with GOST and with a 5-year warranty. We offer installation of plastic and aluminum windows, as well as glazing of balconies.

Prices for the installation of plastic windows

* Dismantling is carried out free of charge only when ordering and installing windows
** The minimum cost of installation is 2500 rubles.
** The cost of installation for non-standard windows is calculated individually.

To get a durable and high-quality installation, you need to call a measurer who will measure the window opening, not only taking into account your wishes, but also taking into account the characteristics of the building itself and the increase in the opening after dismantling. If you follow all the rules for dismantling and installing a plastic window, you will get durability, quality, reliability, warmth and comfort in your home.

Video of the installation process

The main stages of installation of plastic windows

PLASTOK company performs high-quality installation using modern tools and materials... Assembly teams are composed of trained qualified specialists... The company conducts systematic refresher courses for its employees.
PLASTOK is quality assurance performed installation work.

Preparing access to the window opening

Checking the size of new pvc windows and preparing them for installation

Before starting the installation, a control check is carried out for the compliance of the window dimensions with the window opening, the order is checked and its compliance with the terms of reference is checked.

The sashes are removed from the hinges and blind windows are opened. Holes are drilled in the frame or the anchor plates are fixed in accordance with the requirements approved by GOST, taking into account the type of house and the indicators specified in the measuring sheet. When determining the location of fasteners, installers are guided by the following requirements:

• distance between fasteners - no more than 700 mm,
• distance from the inner corner of the window block box to the fastening element - 150-180 mm (but not less than 2 fasteners per side),
• the distance from the mullion connection to the fastening element is 120-180 mm.

Dismantling old window frames

After knocking down the slopes, old frames are removed from the window opening. During installation, the workspace is kept clean and large debris is removed.

Before installing the frame in the opening, 3 types of tapes are installed on it, which provide hydro, heat and sound insulation of the room.

1. PSUL tape- self-expanding pre-compressed sealing tape. The material is a self-adhesive polyurethane foam tape impregnated with a special neoprene compound. It is easily glued and tends to expand, filling all defects and irregularities of the window opening. The tape not only hides these defects, but also perfectly protects the assembly seam from the effects of weather. PSUL tape is glued to the side and upper parts of the frame, taking into account the approach to the quarter.
2. Vapor barrier tape made of aluminum foil reinforced with high-strength synthetic thread, intended for internal vapor barrier of assembly joints.
3. Waterproofing tape will reliably protect the external assembly seam from aggressive atmospheric influences. It is made on a polypropylene base with a butyl adhesive strip that firmly adheres to the opening or slope, and the adhesive mounting strips are easily fixed to the window or door profile.

Preparation of the window opening and installation of the frame and sashes

Before installing a new window, the opening is thoroughly cleaned and prepared. Then, with the help of technological wedges, taking into account the gaps on the sides, the frame is set relative to the vertical and horizontal. Plates or dowels are fixed on the sides of the window frame. During the installation process, a control measurement of deviations is required. Window sashes are installed and blind parts are glazed.

When the frame is fixed, the installation seam between the frame and the wall is sealed with foam sealant.

back

Currently, plastic windows are recognized as one of the most widespread and demanded designs. They can be installed both in a city apartment and in a private house. It is possible to cope with such work not only with the involvement of specialists, but also independently.

Today we will analyze in as much detail as possible how to properly mount plastic windows, and also consider what the features of these popular designs are.

Peculiarities

It's no secret that standard wooden window frames have long ceased to be the most popular. They are much less common today than they used to be. The decrease in their demand is due not only to the exactingness of care, but also to the fact that more practical designs made of high-quality plastic have appeared on the market.

Plastic windows in our time are the most optimal and relevant elements of home improvement.

Such products have many positive qualities. Installation work is often carried out by the owners of the dwelling, and not by hired craftsmen. Thus, you can significantly save money, because the services of specialists today are not cheap.

A distinctive feature in carrying out such installation work is that they can be carried out not only in the conditions of an average city apartment.

Owners of "Khrushchev" houses, brick / wooden, panel houses and even luxury cottages can turn to the installation of plastic windows. This speaks of the versatility of such designs. Of course, in this case, we are not talking about plastic glazing of balconies, since the rules here are slightly different - you will have to take into account the technical condition of the loggia / balcony in order to be sure of the reliability and durability of the equipped space.

A feature of such installation work is that you first need to carefully prepare for them. In no case should this stage be neglected, otherwise the installed structures will not be sufficiently reliable and durable.

First of all, you will need to conscientiously prepare a window opening for future installation work. If it has an old window, it will need to be properly and carefully dismantled.

Plastic windows are not uncommon today. They are chosen by many consumers, and the point is not only in the relative ease of installation of these structures. Let us consider in detail what are the pros and cons of such popular products.

First, let's take a look at the positive characteristics.

• Modern plastic windows are made from high quality and environmentally friendly raw materials. As a result, structures are obtained that do not cause any harm to health either during installation work or after their completion.
• Plastic windows can be selected for absolutely any openings. They are available in different shapes and sizes, which allows you to choose the best option for a wide variety of buildings / houses.

• In search of the most reliable and durable structures, many consumers stop at metal-plastic products. Such products are good in that they can serve for many decades without problems and do not require replacement / major repairs. Such structures are not affected by atmospheric precipitation.
• Plastic windows are famous for the fact that they do not require complex and regular maintenance, as, for example, wood products. Such models do not have to be regularly painted / tinted or insulated for the winter season. All that is required from you is to wipe the constructions from the accumulated dust from time to time.
• One of the most significant advantages of plastic window structures is that they easily fit into many interior styles. In addition, it is permissible to combine them with various curtains, curtains, blinds and many other similar elements.
• It is quite possible to do the work on the installation of these window structures with your own hands, which is what many owners of apartments and houses do.

But do not flatter yourself. If you want to install plastic windows in your home with your own hands, then you be sure to familiarize yourself with their shortcomings - perhaps this will affect your final choice.

• As mentioned earlier, it is possible to install windows on your own, but we must not forget that in this case you will not have the right to make a mistake. If you do the work incorrectly, then it may end up with the window being poorly soundproofed and leaky. In a home with poorly installed plastic windows, it will not be possible to maintain a comfortable microclimate - it will be cold and noisy.
• The disadvantages of such structures include overly strengthened tightness. Despite the fact that modern versions of plastic windows are equipped with ventilation, it is not enough for living quarters. In any case, residents will have to additionally ventilate the living space or buy an air conditioner (and this can cost a pretty penny).

• Please note that after installing PVC windows, a dry climate may form in the home. This will negatively affect many types of indoor plants.
• Before proceeding to the direct installation work, you will have to make measurements as accurately and correctly as possible, which seems quite difficult to many users.
• Plastic windows have one serious drawback - in conditions of temperature extremes, they can expand, which affects their service life.
• If you decide to install such window structures in your home, then you need to take into account that their repair and restoration is not always possible.

Micro-ventilation plays an important role in plastic window structures. If the room does not have a comfortable and optimal microclimate, then this can lead to the accumulation of condensation on the windows. To avoid the problem of fogging of window structures, you need to choose options in which micro-ventilation is provided. This system works on the principle of supply ventilation. It is activated by the movement of the handle - it is set to a specific position.

If you plan to install PVC windows in a house / apartment with your own hands, then you will have to take into account many features and nuances. It is very important to adhere to the requirements of GOST 23116-99 and 30971092.

Violation of these simple rules can lead to the fact that the result of the work done will simply disappoint you and you will have to do "work on mistakes."

Design

Many experts argue that it is worth starting the direct installation of plastic windows only after a detailed acquaintance with their structure / design. Thus, it will be much easier for you to carry out such work.

A plastic window is assembled from the following important elements.

• Frame... Everything is simple here: the frame is the basis of the design.

• If the window is assembled from a certain number of components, then the frame is divided using elements such as impost Is a vertical piece. If the window contains 2 parts, then there is only one impost in the structure, and if there are 3 parts, then there should be 2 imposts.
• The opening window element is called a sash.... The fixed part is wood grouse. Double-glazed windows are fixed in these components. These elements are glasses attached to each other (there can be 2, 3 or more). There is a foil tape between the glasses in this design, which is responsible for the tightness. Double-glazed windows are special: with reinforcement, energy-efficient or tinted glass. There are also similar products in which an inert gas is pumped between the glasses, which reduces heat loss.

• Double-glazed windows are attached to the frame base using special glazing beads, which are plastic strips. As for the necessary tightness of the joints, you cannot do without a reliable rubber seal (as a rule, it is black).
• Also fixed on the sash locking fittings, which is a set of special mechanisms responsible for opening and closing the leaves. They are different because they carry different functional loads. These include: direct opening with ventilation, opening with ventilation and micro-ventilation.
• So that all structural elements are properly sealed, rubber seals are used.

There are drainage holes on the bottom of the outside of the frame. They are usually closed with special caps. Through these components, condensation penetrates into the street, which forms in the inside due to the difference in temperature inside the building and outside.

Measurements

Knowing what the plastic window structure consists of, you can proceed to its installation. The first step in carrying out such work will be measurements.

Before you go shopping for a plastic window, you should correctly measure the window opening in which you will install the structure. The scheme is simple. In this case, it is necessary to consider whether it is with a quarter or not.

Bases and a quarter are usually found in buildings made of a material such as foam block. Such components significantly reduce heat loss from the living space. In an opening without a quarter, windows should be ordered with a length less than 5 cm than the same parameter of the opening. In this case, 3 cm must be subtracted from the width parameter. The gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are useful for applying foam, and additional 3.5 cm for setting the window sill. In accordance with GOSTs, it is recommended to leave 2 cm around the perimeter.

To organize a window opening with a quarter, all measurements should be taken to the narrowest section. Windows are usually ordered by adding to the width parameter of about 3 cm. The length is not adjusted.

Most often, the windows are not fixed in the center of the opening. They are placed, indenting from the outer part by 1/3 in depth. If you are going to put a PVC window on your own, you can make an offset in the direction you want. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the parameters of the width of both components, calculated in accordance with the direct location of the window, 5 cm are usually added.

The calculation of the indicator of the width of the window sill is also influenced by such a parameter as the position of the battery. Please note that the window sill should "hide" the radiator no more than half... You also need to add about 2 cm to set aside for the base of the window. The most modest margin in the length parameter may be 8 cm, however experts recommend not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this detail as neatly and aesthetically as possible.

• Measurements are best done for all similar openings in an apartment / house. The width of these components can vary significantly, but the height parameter for all openings should be similar (of all, the smallest size should be chosen).
• As mentioned earlier, the window is usually not installed directly in the middle of the opening. It is recommended to fix PVC structures 2/3 of the wall width from the inside. However, in the event that you are going to sheathe the outer side of the building with heat-insulating material, then it is permissible to put the window a little further. The gap left will contain the artboard (outer plane of the window).
• It is worth starting to measure the slopes only after the completion of the installation work, since it is rather problematic to calculate the width of these parts in advance. In this case, the length of the slopes will be equal to the height of the opening itself. Consider a small stock for cutting.

When ordering a window, you will definitely need to indicate in what quantity and what specific parts should be in the product. We must not forget about the indication of the presence / absence of wood grouse. You will also need to decide how the window will open and close. When ordering, you will also need to specify the desired type of fittings / components.

If you are going to purchase and install a PVC window for a balcony, then the measurements will have to be done a little differently.

• Width windows should be calculated as a parameter of the length of the parapet, on which it will rely. Subtract 60-70 cm on all sides to fix the special corner trim. Behind it, the elements of the front and side sides will be connected.
• Height should be defined as the step from the parapet to the roof of the balcony structure minus 25-30 cm required for the gaps.

The windows located on the side, in a balcony setting, must be calculated in the same way, but only in width in this case, 60-70 cm must be subtracted for the corner profile. For the joints between the window and the wall covering, 25-30 cm will be required.

If you are taking measurements in a private house or an old building, then experts recommend knocking down pieces of slopes on each side in the measurement areas.

This action is required, since in many cases the dimensions of the window opening significantly exceed the dimensional parameters of the window itself, and the remaining space is closed with cement or an insulating layer, which often simply falls out when the previous structure is removed.

Preparation

As mentioned earlier, before starting the installation of plastic windows, it is very important to correctly carry out the preparatory work. Do not forget that only those PVC structures that were produced on special industrial equipment and fully correspond to all measurements are allowed for installation.

In the course of preparation work it is required to take into account that the width (as well as the height) of the opening itself should be 2-5 cm larger than the window... This is necessary in order to be able to form the required three-layer assembly seam.

The easiest way to install PVC windows is in new buildings, since there is no need to carry out the most complex preparatory work - to dismantle old window structures. However, if the latter are in the dwelling, then they must be cleaned.

Old windows are usually removed starting with the dismantling of the sash. Usually, at this stage, the craftsmen do not have any problems (of course, if the frame has not completely rotted).

If there is a completely rotten frame, then for a start it is better to remove the glass so that they do not accidentally fall out when dismantling the sashes.

As for the frame itself, it is permissible to remove it using different methods. Many of them are very gentle, but require more effort and time. At the same time, the frames are not damaged in any way and remain intact (they can even be used in the future). As a rule, the old frame structure is cut using a circular saw and then removed in parts without problems. It is also necessary to remove any old seals and insulation materials.

Before dismantling the old window, you should cover the furniture and equipment in the room with plastic wrap, since during such work there is always a lot of dust left. If there is a carpet or a carpet in the room, then it is better to move them to another room. You can do the same with furniture, but most owners just prefer to cover it.

It is very important to scrupulously clean the window opening from any debris and dust. The old sealant must not be left behind. If there are recesses or cracks on the walls of the opening, the diameter of which exceeds the 2 mm mark, then, in accordance with GOST, they must be repaired with high-quality plaster or putty. Many home craftsmen neglect this process, since it takes a long time, because it takes an average of 5-8 days to dry the same plaster mixture. Throughout this time, the opening will remain open.

However, you can turn to special quick-drying mixtures (gypsum or polymer). Such formulations will significantly reduce the waiting time for drying. If you use such solutions, then you will have to wait for them to set in just a few hours, not days.

Dismantling the old structure

As mentioned above, for the installation of a plastic window, it is necessary to prepare a high-quality window opening and one of the stages of work is to dismantle the old window.

Let's take a closer look at how to do this.

• The first step is to remove the sash of the old window from the hinges. If the structure contains closed (deaf) elements, then you must first remove the glazing beads and only then remove the glass.
• The next step is to dismantle the window sill. It must be removed in such a way that the bottom of the window opening is not damaged. The method of removing the window sill largely depends on the material from which it is made. For example, a concrete part should be dismantled using a hammer: break the middle, then cut the reinforcement and remove the remnants of the window sill from the sidewalls of the opening. If these elements are made of wood, plastic, metal or marble, then they should be removed entirely. These elements are removed using a hammer or perforator, as well as a chisel.
• It is also necessary to remove the ebb. To do this, first it is important to figure out how they were fixed and what they were screwed to - to the window sill profile or to the frame.

• After removing the window sill and ebb, you need to remove the window itself from the opening. It is most convenient to use a tool such as a mounting cutter. Many professional installers turn to this device because it is faster and easier to work with. Of course, you can also use a simple wood hacksaw or a jigsaw.
• Having removed the frame from the window opening, you need to dismantle the slopes. Parts that have been finished with sand-cement mortar cannot be dismantled. As for the slopes made of gypsum board or plastic, they can be removed using a screwdriver.
• After completing all the indicated work, it remains only to remove the old insulating material from the mounting opening.

Remember - the opening must definitely keep its original integrity. If you nevertheless damaged this base, then you will have to immediately get rid of the resulting defects, otherwise in the future they can cause drafts that penetrate into the living room, wear of the fittings and violation of the tightness of the structure.

How to install yourself: step-by-step description

If you have prepared the frame for the installation of a new PVC window, having correctly removed the old one, then you can proceed directly to the installation of the purchased plastic structure. In this situation, you must strictly adhere to the instructions, as well as when carrying out dismantling work.

Currently, there are two main methods for installing plastic windows:

• with disassembly (unpacking) of the window;
• without disassembly.

If you chose the option with unpacking, then you need to drill holes in the frame through which the anchors will be screwed into the walls. This method is rather complicated, but the fastenings in this case will be more reliable.

If you decide to install a plastic window without unpacking, then you will need to attach metal plates to the frame from the outside. Then they will need to be attached to the walls. Of course, these actions will take much less effort and time, but such a mount is considered not the most reliable because in the event of significant wind loads, the frame can be seriously skewed. It can also sag. If you do not want to disassemble the window, then you can turn to fixing on the plate, but use not narrow and thin, but dense and wide elements, which are very often used during the installation of rafter systems.

Compact PVC windows installed on special mounting plates, in the absence of serious wind loads, will stand for many years and will not cause any trouble. But in the event that you live in a region where powerful and gusty winds take place, or your apartment is located on a high floor, it is better to turn to the unpacking method. Each of these methods of installing plastic windows should be considered in more detail.

To begin with, let's look at how installation and unpacking is carried out.

With unpacking

In this case, you first need to take all the necessary measurements. Measure the window frame and opening. Be sure to make sure these pieces fit together. Then you can start installation work.

Consider the process of disassembling a window.

• The sash must be removed first. To do this, close the window by turning the handle down. Then the plastic overlays are removed, which are present on the two hinges. They should be pry off with a screwdriver.
• A pin can be seen on the eyelet on top. He is responsible for the mobile connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. You need to press on it until it deepens (for this, many use a metal plate, which they rest against the pin, and then lightly knock on it). The pin will slide out at the bottom. After that, it should be grabbed with side cutters or pliers. Pull down and remove these parts.
• Supporting the sash from above, open the lock. For this, the handle must be placed horizontally. Tilting the top towards you, slightly lift the sash, removing it from the pin at the bottom.

This will remove the sash. Then you will need to remove the glass unit on the wood grouse. These elements are held thanks to the glazing beads. They should be removed, after which the glass unit can be removed without any difficulty.

The staples must be removed according to the following scheme.

• In the gap between the glazing bead and the frame, you need to insert something narrow and strong enough. If you do not have special tools in stock, it is recommended to take a small spatula for this. Disassembly should be started starting from one of the long sides.
• The corner section of the trowel should penetrate into the joint and gently move the glazing bead away from the frame structure.
• Without reaching for the tool, you need to quietly move along, again moving the glazing bead to the side.
• Thus, you need to move along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead will be practically separated and it is easy to get it out.
• As for the short sides, everything is simpler here: you need to pry off the free edge and, turning the spatula, remove it from its groove. You need to take hold of the free edge and pull up.

After that, you can proceed to removing the glass unit. Be as careful as possible as it carries a lot of weight. If you do not succeed, then you should remove one more glazing bead. But it is important to ensure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Further, if necessary, it will be possible to replace the glass unit with your own hands.

The cleaned frame along the outer perimeter must be pasted over with self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With such a component, the window will not be too cold.

Remove the film with the manufacturer's logo from the structure... If it is not removed, it can melt under the influence of aggressive sunlight and "stick" to the frame, and then it will be very difficult to remove it. The frame must be inserted into the cleaned opening. To set it up, you need to turn to the special mounting wedges. They are always fixed in the corners and under the impost. Other elements are set as needed. When placing, it is important to set the window exclusively in accordance with the level in 3 planes. First, the location of the window leaf is fixed. This is where mounting plates come in handy.

Next, take a drill and drill, the same size as the diameter of the anchor fasteners. You need to make holes for the fasteners. Approximately 150-180 mm should be retreated from the top edge. This will be the first hole. The bottom hole should be located at a similar distance from the bottom corner. One more anchor must be fixed between them in a regular window: the largest gap between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.

After punching a hole, you need to make sure that the frame has not moved out of place. This requires a level. Next, the anchor is nailed and tightened well. But keep in mind that it is important not to overdo it here: profile, in no case should bend too much... This operation should be repeated as many times as necessary.

After that, proceed to the installation of the ebb.

Without unpacking

The main subtleties of the installation work are described above. With this method, installation begins with fixing the fastener plates. They come in 2 varieties: P-like and linear. You need to choose the most reliable and dense options... They must be fixed at the same distance as the anchor fasteners - 50-200 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the parts in the middle. They must be screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

In the future, work is underway to install windows with your own hands using mounting plates in the same way as with the above method, starting with the stage of exposing the PVC window in the opening using a level. But it is no longer necessary to attach the frame itself, but the plates and not with the help of anchors, but dowels-nails... You need to drill a hole, bend the plate, fix the dowel, and then put the plate in place and screw in the dowel. Further actions are similar.

Drainage

Ebb is recognized as another important component of the new plastic window. It is required to be placed outside. For this purpose, according to the technology, first, a high-quality vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer half of the frame (it is advisable to use self-adhesive materials). On the side planes of the window opening, it is necessary to make small grooves, into which the edges of the drainage are subsequently installed.

On the plane of the opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall, you need to apply a layer of polyurethane foam. In some cases, when the difference in height is too impressive, a special lining profile is fixed in this place. Subsequently, the ebb will be attached to it. The ebb, trimmed according to the required parameters, is brought under the protruding section of the frame, after which it is attached to it using self-tapping screws. At the bottom edge, the ebb also needs to be filled with foam.

After that, it is necessary to foam the window opening itself.

If you install PVC windows in summer, the gap between the frame and the opening must be sprayed with water using a spray bottle. This stage is required in order to improve the polymerization of the foam.

Along the contour of the frame structure, it is necessary to glue a vapor-insulating waterproofing tape, which is also recommended by GOST. Next, you need to take a can of foam and fill the remaining gaps by 2/3 of the volume.

If the gaps are too large (more than 2-3 cm), the foam should be applied in several stages. It is necessary to wait a little time between 2 layers - about 10-15 minutes. When the initial layer is slightly fixed, it also needs to be sprayed with water, and then proceed with the application of the second. You need to repeat these steps until the volume is filled by 2/3.

Don't expect absolute polymerization. Glue the free edge of the insulation strip to the window opening. But you need to pay attention to the fact that using the tape, you should install light plastic slopes. This is due to the fact that neither plaster nor any other solution will fall on such thermal insulation.

After carrying out the work related to the installation of the ebb, it remains only to proceed to the assembly of the window and the finishing of the necessary elements.

Assembling the window

If you have done all the above work, then you can proceed to the direct assembly of a new plastic window.

Begin this work by cleaning the glass and gum in the frame from dust and any other contamination. If required, use a conventional blade to remove any traces of black sealant remaining on the glass.

It should be noted that on the frame in the part where the glass unit itself is fixed, there are special fold inserts on the inside of the profiles. Straightening plates are placed on top of them, playing the role of a kind of spacers for the package. Inserts on the profile on the side and impost must be moved to the center.

Plates with the same thickness must be laid on the liners from below. Please note that you need to lay them in such a way that they are located at an angle, and not along the tab. Simply put, one corner of the plate should abut against the rubber, and the diagonally located one covered the groove intended for the glazing bead. This stage is required because not in all cases the width of the straightening plates is suitable for the density parameter of the glass unit. It often has more modest parameters.

If this plate is installed along the profile, one glass located on the edge will simply be left without support. In the process of fixing the glazing bead, this glass will press its lateral surface against the same plate and will crack from the formed strong load. In order not to face such an unpleasant situation, the plates are stacked at an angle in relation to the frame structure.

Next, you need to put a double-glazed window on the plates and press it against the outer rubber bands. In this case, you need to raise the glass unit in the lower part (for this it is permissible to use a spatula - it will be more convenient) and fix the plates: push the protruding corner sections under the package, but not to a great depth, but so that they act as a support for all three glasses. These parts should not protrude much outward and interfere with fixing the glazing beads.

Next, you should definitely check whether the double-glazed window enters the same way on the side sections for the rubber bands. If this is required, it is necessary to carry out corrective work using a spatula. With this tool, you need to move the package to the right or left. After adjusting the position of the double-glazed window, put glazing beads at the top and bottom.

If your toolbox does not have such a useful device as a mallet (plastic or rubber), then the glazing beads can be hammered in with a hammer handle. This should be done starting from the ends and moving towards the middle.

Before proceeding to the installation of glazing beads on the side, it is required to unfold the glass unit with plates on the side sections. For this purpose, we have previously moved the side seam inserts on the frame and impost closer to the center. Now all that remains is to put straightening plates on them, again using a spatula.

Please note: Plates must be placed in the same way as the lower parts. This is necessary to provide a secure support for all three glasses in the package.

First, the side glazing beads should be inserted with their tips into the groove, starting from the end pieces. After that, they are slaughtered, as in the previous stages: starting from the ends, moving towards the center.

The next step is to install the sash. Before that, it is recommended to install special caps on the hinges.... They are rather difficult to install if the sash is already present on the frame. In this situation, a special cover is meant, which is called a "snail". It is fixed on the corner hinge on top of the sash, as well as on the frame hinge at the bottom.

On the sash, you need to fix the handle horizontally. To do this, it is necessary to turn the lifting microlift vertically downward. Otherwise, the handle will lock.

Experts advise to check that the handle is installed correctly: the horizontal hardware pins should be located in a central position (not at the top or bottom, but only in the middle - between 2 adjacent risks). After that, you can proceed to installing the sash directly on the frame structure. It is put on the loop from below, and then the corner section of the sash is launched into the loop from above and fixed with a pin, pushing it upward until the latch is triggered.

In order for the pin to enter the hole of the hinge as easily as possible and not get stuck, the sash should be pressed (you can press it slightly) against the frame. In this position, the longitudinal cut of the pin will line up with the ridge inside the hole in the hinge.

When assembling PVC windows, you need to be very careful and careful. Also, one should not forget about checking the correct movement of the swing leaf of the structure. The level of fixation of the structure should also be checked. For example, in the 45 degree and 90 degree opening position, the sash should not wobble or swing open by itself. When you have carried out all the required checks, it will be possible to close the sash reliably and proceed to the next step - sealing the gaps.

Gap sealing

In order to close the remaining gap between the window and the wall ceiling, high-quality polyurethane-based foam is most often used. This material is chosen by many consumers, as it is time-tested. The polyurethane sealant can provide excellent sealing and thermal insulation of the joint. However, not everyone knows that over time and during "encounters" with the external environment, foam loses its positive properties, which is why it begins to collapse.

To guarantee her protection, you need to take care of installing a high-quality hydro-barrier on 2 sides that surround the seam. This process is neglected by many unscrupulous installers. Moreover, few people at the right time are engaged in fixing the slopes in order to somehow protect the foam. As a result, for many owners of apartments and private buildings, windows may begin to freeze or fog up.

In order not to face such problems, a vapor barrier film is glued to such a window from the inside. You need to glue it around the perimeter, but you should leave the lower part intact..

Concerning on the outside, then here you will also need to glue a membrane moisture-resistant strip around the perimeter... This material will be responsible for protecting the polyurethane foam from atmospheric precipitation, and will also help remove moisture from the inside of the insulation.

As for the lower inner edge of the window structure, here you need to glue a strip of waterproofing with a foil surface. She will hide under the windowsill. Fold the strips in the distance left between the wall and the window, and then dampen all the bases with water. Next, fill up the gap. It is recommended to give preference to special all-season polyurethane foam. It will be convenient to apply it using a pistol designed for such compositions.

When you fill the gap, you will need to slightly dampen the foam again using a spray bottle. Next, glue the insulating tape to the wall along the perimeter of the window (both outside and inside).

Installation of a window sill

The installation of window blocks does not end with the installation of ebbs and seams. Another important component of such structures is the window sill, the installation of which should not be forgotten either.

The window sill must be trimmed at the edges so that it fits perfectly and clearly into the opening, goes under the frame and "stuck" into the lining profile. In the extreme outrigger sections of the opening, the window sill should be located on the wall ceilings (by 50-100 mm). Using pegs, mark the installation of this part with a slight bevel inside the room. Further the space under the windowsill needs to be sealed with polyurethane foam or filled with mortar... Using self-tapping screws 4x75 mm, the window sill should be attached to the frame. Fasteners must be screwed in from the inside at the outermost areas and in the center.

Many owners of wooden dwellings are wondering whether it is possible to put plastic windows in them. Yes, in such conditions, the installation of such structures is possible, however some nuances should be taken into account.

• It is permissible to proceed to these installation works only 1-2 years after the end of construction. At this time, there is a period of shrinkage of the building.
• Installation of plastic windows in these conditions is not carried out in the opening. Window structures can only be placed in a wooden box, which is designed to protect them from deformation.
• It is important to ensure that the slightest traces of rot or destruction are not present on the window block. Before proceeding to the installation steps, it is required to treat the tree with antiseptic agents.
• After completing the installation of a plastic window in a wooden dwelling, the gap is most often filled with a jute insulating layer, and then closed with a platband from 2 sides.

The cage (or squiggle) is an important component when installing plastic windows in suburban dwellings. Most often, the casing is addressed in conditions of wooden and timber structures. These elements are a box that is placed in window and door openings. They are responsible for keeping window structures from deformations and cracks.

If you yourself design the jigs, then you will need:

• first prepare the opening;
• make cuts thorn-groove;
• treat surfaces with an antiseptic;
• install seals;
• put side and top casing elements;
• lay insulation;
• at the end, put and fix the window itself.

Do not rush to remove the branded film from the window structure immediately after purchase. It is advisable to do this at the end of the repair work. Do not leave the film on the frames either, as removing them can become a big problem over time.

If you are removing a glass unit, you need to be as careful as possible. This is due to the fact that inaccurate manipulations with glazing beads often end in scratches and chips that appear on the glass.

Repair of plastic windows can be done by hand. Most often, the owners are faced with the problem of adjusting the sashes. In addition, you can change the window handle or sealing materials yourself. It is also possible to independently replace the double-glazed window, but it is permissible to go to it only if you are confident in your capabilities. Otherwise, it is worth contacting specialists.

Usually, special side plugs are included with window sills and ebbs. Their installation should not be abandoned.

If you place anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, then you better prepare small recesses for them. They will be needed so that you do not have to lay an extra leveling layer before fixing the slopes in the inner part of the room.

In order to shift the dew point, it is recommended to make foaming with different density levels.... The outward-facing foam layer should be made not too thick, especially when compared to the inner layer. Along the perimeter, it is permissible to lay the foam evenly, without leaving gaps or voids.

Please note that the gaps between the wall ceiling and the window frame should be filled with mounting foam if they do not exceed the 4 cm mark.If the gaps are too large, it is recommended to partially close them with cheap materials such as drywall, foam or brick.

If you decide to install PVC windows in a frame structure, then you need to take into account that you can proceed to these works after:

• frame erection;
• laying and wall insulation;
• roofing;
• providing vapor barrier and wind protection.

Internal vapor barrier and external insulation must be installed with a small margin in openings. If you are going to install PVC windows in a frame house without floors, then you cannot do without the use of scaffolding. With these designs, installation work will be easier and faster.

Before you go shopping for high-quality plastic windows, you must take into account that the profiles of these structures are divided into classes:

• economy- have very thin partitions, which soon begin to freeze, especially in cold autumn or winter;
• standard- is considered the best profile for plastic windows, it is optimal in terms of price-quality ratio;
• premium- the most expensive profile, which has various options, many of which are not particularly needed.

To make sure that the PVC profile is safe from an environmental point of view, you need to request a quality certificate for the purchased products. These documents usually contain all the necessary information. The composition of window structures should not contain aggressive chemicals that can harm human health.

If you want your home to always be warm, you should order energy-saving double-glazed windows. Of course, they are more expensive than simple options, but the money spent on them will pay off soon due to the overall reduction in energy costs.