Bathroom renovation portal. Useful Tips

Plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen above the window. Plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen - the best design options

The beginning of the renovation means for many an atmosphere of chaos for an indefinite time. All the inconveniences are compensated by an enchanting, eye-pleasing result. The modern style of the apartment is much different from the standard renovation of the last century. Innovative image solutions in apartment renovation will help to embody a variety of products on the market. Let's talk about the design of the ceiling in the kitchen using plasterboard, which is rightfully considered one of the most affordable and easy-to-use materials.

The kitchen is a very moody room. It is inhabited by smells, humidity, and the temperature is constantly changing. In this part of the apartment, as a rule, communications, equipment with wires, a lot of lighting devices for different zones are concentrated. The material for the ceiling should perfectly cope with the peculiarities of the food room and help to visually hide all unnecessary and give aesthetics. Ventilation is important for the dining area. GKL * is an environmentally friendly, breathable material, on which mold and mildew do not form, and odors are absorbed.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

The main advantages of gypsum board:

  1. Fast, simple and inexpensive. It is a versatile and picky material that is easy to work with, easy to install, and can be finished with a ceiling within a week. As compared to other finishing materials, drywall is affordable, and the result of the work will look expensive, modern and unusual.
  2. The strength of the gypsum board. Stretch ceilings, for example, are not that difficult to tear. And drywall is a fairly strong material and therefore more durable than many.
  3. Environmental friendliness. GKL consists of two materials: environmentally friendly gypsum, covered with cardboard on both sides. This allows the drywall to "breathe" and does not harm the inhabitants of the apartment.
  4. GKL absorb odors, do not accumulate moisture (prevents the appearance of mold and mildew, which is often a reason to upset the owners of the room), are resistant to temperature changes. All these incidental manifestations of the kitchen area often cause a lot of problems and quickly spoil the appearance.
  5. Aesthetics. With the help of drywall, it is easy to hide all the flaws that visually spoil the kitchen room: irregularities, defects, wiring.
  6. Lighting. Thanks to the space, you can hang any lamps at the same level as the ceiling.
  7. Soundproofing. GKL additionally isolate sound in the room, which contributes to the creation of the greatest comfort for all family members.
  8. Warming. Thanks to the plasterboard construction, it is possible, if necessary, to make the room warmer by laying a special material between the ceiling and the plasterboard.
  9. Durability of the gypsum board. This material does not deform when the building settles (actual in new buildings), does not crack. These properties will save you from many problems, frustrations and save your family budget.
  10. All kinds of interior options. Drywall gives free rein to all kinds of design decisions: it takes any shape, it can be made matte, glossy, depict any pattern, paint in any color, easily combine with other materials, it is convenient to mount the backlight.

The main disadvantages of gypsum board:

  • Loss of centimeters. The more you choose the levels of the plasterboard ceiling, the more it will eat, cm. On average, one level takes 10 cm of height.
  • To build a gypsum plasterboard ceiling, skill is required and it may be necessary to hire workers (in particular, this applies to ceilings of more than one level).

Summing up the "pros" and "cons" of plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen, we see a clear superiority of the positive aspects. Having established our position, we boldly proceed to the embodiment of the plan. Let's start with the premises.

How the area of ​​the kitchen affects the appearance of the ceiling

Before starting the design of the ceiling, you need to assess the size of the site to work with.

A small kitchen can be visually enlarged in size and height. Light shades, additional bright lamps and a single-level ceiling will help in this: color and light will illusoryly make the room larger, and one level will take centimeters of height at least.

If the kitchen is large in size, but its height is minimal, then a multi-level ceiling will also not work, but you can easily experiment with the colors of the room.

With very high walls, a multi-level plasterboard ceiling will make the space cozier and more aesthetically pleasing. To close the ventilation pipe, you can think about the option with a box. It will look much more aesthetically pleasing than the pipe itself.

For a living room combined with a kitchen, dividing zones with a thoughtful design is perfect. For example, design a ceiling that flows into a partition or arch. This option also looks great in a large kitchen: you can separate the work area from the dining area. A simpler option is to visually divide the zones using lamps, colors or a variety of figured patterns from the gypsum board.

Decide how you can visually enhance your living room with a ceiling and start designing the ceiling.

photos

Ceiling levels and their features

Sibling

The ceiling of the same level is suitable for all types of kitchens and it is quite possible to cope with the installation on your own, without resorting to the help of specialists. For lovers of the classic look, the ceiling of their plasterboard can be plastered and painted. As a result, you will get a standard look while maintaining the advantages of this material.

Designers advise for small rooms to choose a glossy paint of a light shade in order to visually increase the area. It is important to take into account the style of the room as a whole and, in harmony with the furniture, choose the desired color.

For those who want to create something unusual, but have a low ceiling and small "squares" - colors, patterns and lamps will come to the rescue. Zoning your kitchen is one of the great ways. It is popular to highlight the place where the dining table is, or the middle of the kitchen. With this arrangement of accents, work areas can be darkened. Also, light zones can be made with the help of light: mount several bright lamps over the desired area, disperse the rest of the light in the working areas as needed.

The individuality and originality of the kitchen room will be given by a drawing made on drywall. Unique drawing will transform the kitchen, help to highlight the interior and prioritize it.

Two-tier

Two levels of plasterboard will help you build a very effective ceiling. Walls lower than 2.5 meters in height are not suitable for such a structure, because the construction will take about 15 centimeters.

Competently thought-out placement and combinations of heights will make the kitchen room more voluminous and solve a large number of interior tasks. Most often, high parts of the ceiling are placed in the center of the room or in the work area.

Plasterboard ceiling easily takes any shape. Usually oval and rectangular elements are combined. Figures such as a snake and a spiral look interesting. Your imagination is limitless here.

Combinations of drywall with other types of material look great. Most often, gypsum plasterboard is combined with stretch ceilings, wood and plywood.

Variations with light will be especially wonderful. Any lamps can be installed in two-level ceilings. Proper zoning of space is necessary. One of the generally accepted combinations of the location of light sources on two levels is as follows: the main lamps are installed in the center of the room, and neon and LED lamps are placed below the edges.

Another version of the light distribution looks like this: individual areas are illuminated with bright lamps (for example, a dinner table, a bar, paintings), and other areas are illuminated with a little dim light.

Combinations of colors, glossy and matte colors, accents with a pattern look spectacular. Do not forget that bold solutions and previously unthinkable color combinations are in fashion now.

Tiered

From three levels and more, the ceiling is considered multi-level. If you own an apartment with ceilings from three meters high, then several levels of the ceiling will be an excellent interior concept. This option is the most decorated. The play of lines, colors, light and textures will transform the kitchen and make it the most enchanting room, where you will want to hold receptions and arrange noble dinners.

When the height of the kitchen is more than four meters, and the area is small, then the whole room looks awkward. A decorated ceiling on several levels will immortalize the room and make it much more comfortable.

Ceilings for the living room combined with the kitchen

The kitchen and living room are the most visited rooms in the apartment and house. In the combined rooms, they receive guests and arrange various events. Therefore, it is important to make these areas beautiful, solemn and cozy.

The most attractive option is to build a wall that will smoothly flow out of the ceiling, or a shaped arch. The wall can be patterned, with windows and curtains, it can be decorated with a gallery of paintings. For the arch, you can pick up bizarre shapes that emphasize the overall style. Do not forget that the classics are very harmoniously and unusually combined with modern. The area with a large dining table will perfectly highlight the bright light. The relaxation area can be made darker - this will additionally relax after a hearty dinner for households and invited guests. In general, such an amount of space gives free rein to the imagination. The main thing is to think over everything thoroughly and act boldly.

In principle, any person is inclined to ensure that his ideas come true as quickly as possible and this takes a minimum of physical and material costs. One of these finishing options is a do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen, which will help you save both time and money.

Ceiling plasterboard and methods of its installation

In this article, we will look at several options for how to make a plasterboard ceiling in a kitchen. The word "several" means a straight plane and an addition from the second tier of the suspended structure, but this will be just one of the many options used by the craftsmen.

Related articles:

Metal suspension frame

  • Whether you will make only one plane, or will it be a multi-level plasterboard suspended ceiling in the kitchen - in any case, you first need to determine the thickness of the first tier or the depth of the ceiling cavity. Whatever the height of your kitchen, the minimum distance by which you can lower the crate of the first plane is 25 mm, i.e. this is the thickness of the CD profile, and it is impossible to raise it higher.
  • Therefore, find the lowest point on the main ceiling and lower it by at least 25 mm, making a mark on the wall. Now, using a water level, transfer it to all corners of the room, inside and outside. The ceiling for the kitchen made of plasterboard will turn out to be 10-12 mm lower (plasterboard plus putty).

  • Between the marks that you made with the water level, stretch the chokline (paint cord) and beat off the control line.
    Some people prefer to draw a reference point under a rule or a long level, but the plasterboard ceiling for the kitchen is much longer than the length of these tools, and it is extremely inconvenient to use them for this purpose.

  • We continue to mount the plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen with our own hands and install the UD profile so that its lower part coincides with the broken line.
    Fastening is carried out on ordinary or impact dowels, after 30-40 cm, the optimal diameter of which is 6 mm (sometimes UD profiles are produced with ready-made holes for installation).
  • Now you need to make a markup for the CD profiles and for this you need to decide on which crate the plasterboard ceilings for the kitchen will be mounted.
    The fact is that there are two types of frame - transverse and cellular, but for the second, the consumption of components is much greater, although it does not exceed the first in strength. Therefore, we determine in which direction the gypsum board will be screwed, and across it we make markings every 50 cm.
  • This is a very important point, because a plasterboard ceiling in a small kitchen is mounted starting from a corner, and this angle must have 90⁰ for the gypsum board to fit correctly.
    If there is no such angle, then markup with the expectation that the sheet will need to be trimmed. In large kitchens, this is a little easier, since the installation of the sheets can be started from the middle, and then trimmed from the pieces.

  • Now it is necessary to install the consoles for the CD profiles along the lines at a distance of 50-69 cm from each other. U-shaped galvanized hangers are used as brackets. After fixing them, the ears drop, and the suspension takes the shape of the letter P or, as they are also called, peshki.

Advice: it is best to mount the suspensions on dowels with a flared sleeve so that they do not fall into the void of the concrete floor.
Impact dowels have such a flaring in the form of cuffs, but it is better to change the screw on them to a thicker one so that the kit does not come out of the seat.

  • Making the ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands from plasterboard, we proceed to the installation of the CD profiles and insert them into the UD under the already installed suspensions. Make the length of each profile to be installed less than the required one by 5 mm so that no deformation occurs during installation.

  • Do not rush to screw the profiles to the suspensions and to each other - they need to be leveled by stretching a nylon thread under them.
    To prevent the thread from pulling off the profiles, bend the central suspension under each of them. Then lower each CD one by one, screwing them to the hangers and to each other with small self-tapping screws (flea beetles).

GKL mount

  • When you marked plasterboard ceilings for the kitchen, you did it every 50 cm, and the sheet is 250 cm long, which means that the edges of two sheets from the end side should lie on the profile, each on its own half.
    For fixing, self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long are used and screwed in after 30 cm from each other. For one gypsum board, you will need about 50-60 pieces of screws.

  • It is better to lift a sheet of drywall to the crate with two people, because its dimensions (250 × 120 cm) will not allow it to be done alone - the panel will break.
    Some people make various fixtures in the form of supports, but this can be used as a last resort. Of course, individual craftsmen are able to do this alone and without props, but they have many years of experience for this, and they use it in exceptional situations.

Tips: drywall is cut with a knife on the front side of the sheet and then broken, and a hacksaw is used for curly cutting (you can use a regular one - for wood).
The screw cap should be either flush or slightly recessed, but there is a danger of paper breakage, so it is better to use a special nozzle with a lampshade, as in the photo above.

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

To decorate an apartment beautifully and maintain the same style in all rooms, it is important to pay great attention to the technology of finishing the ceilings. In this article, we will take a closer look at how to make a suspended ceiling in a plasterboard kitchen on our own without the help of specialists.

If you want to save money, and at the same time learn how to collect, read this material very carefully.

Preparatory stage

The entire technology of creating suspended plasterboard ceilings can be divided into several stages:

  1. We determine the height of your ceilings and beat off the levels in the space of the room.
  2. We expose special guides according to the created level.
  3. We insert the profile, screw in the brackets, create a frame under the desired level.
  4. We place cotton wool in the space behind the false ceiling, put jumpers and apply drywall.

What tools should you purchase before installing a plasterboard ceiling in your kitchen:

  • Spirit level (a special tool for determining the level of horizontal placement of structures in the space of a room
  • 2 meter level to determine the levelness of the installation
  • Ordinary tape measure (5 meter)
  • Construction line
  • Standard triangular building ruler
  • Drill with a set of attachments
  • Conventional screwdriver
  • Plane
  • Special knife (construction) with a set of replaceable blades, as well as a hacksaw
  • Paint pencil
  • Sandpaper

Tools

To assemble the false ceiling construction in the kitchen, we need the following materials:


  • Plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard). On both sides they are covered with soft textured cardboard, which is firmly glued to the plaster. The length of the gypsum board is from 2000 to 3000 mm, and the width is 1200 mm. These sheets are usually finished with gray cardboard.
  • Fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKLO). They are not used in residential premises, more often found in the industrial field.
  • Waterproof gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKLV). Suitable for kitchens and showers in cases where ventilation is installed, which removes some of the moisture. Finishing - green cardboard.
  • Waterproof gypsum plasterboard sheets of increased fire resistance (GKLVO). Aggregate functions and properties of absolutely all of the above types.
  • Gypsum fiber sheet (GVL). This type cannot be finished with cardboard. It is super hard and hyper fire resistant.
  • Waterproof gypsum fiber sheet (GVLV).

Getting started creating a false ceiling

Water level beating stage

You will need 1 assistant and a special tool - a water level. We draw on any of the walls at the level of your eyes with a pencil or a chalk using a ruler, an even horizontal line parallel to the floor. Next, draw a vertical line in the same way to make a cross. This point is now the location for your helper to fish the level. And you need to go through all the corners and draw lines.


At the water level, the water in both flasks should be exactly half. Also, do not forget to completely release the air from the water level, otherwise it will not work out exactly.

Your assistant should put one of the flasks to the drawn cross, and you need to do the same, placing the second one against the corner of the wall. The border of the water in the flask is caught by those who stand at the cross, but you are standing motionless. The line is fixed with a pencil. Thus, marks are made around the perimeter of the entire kitchen.

Water level beating

Where do you need labels:

  • Select the longest wall and put 2 marks there (the kitchen can be either rectangular or polygonal).
  • On the remaining 3 walls, one mark will be enough.

If your future plasterboard ceiling will be backlit in the kitchen, namely with built-in lamps, then you should not subtract 5 cm, but, for example, 10 cm.

False ceiling luminaire

The stage of the correct alignment of the guides

Now we transfer all the marks along the kitchen perimeter up by the value that we received in the calculations in the previous step. You need to measure the wall on which you have 2 marks (the longest wall of the kitchen). It is necessary to cut the guide along the length.

The guide is nailed with dowels in the areas where the marks are drawn. At the bottom, you need to bring a 2-meter level and make sure that there is no gap anywhere.

Advice to everyone who has at least one wall length of 3 meters in the kitchen - purchase guides from 4 meters and higher in stores.

We also place the guides around the entire inner perimeter of the kitchen, paying attention to all the marks on the walls, as well as to the guides themselves on the adjacent walls.

Recheck the curvature several times so as not to spoil your future ceiling.

Exposed guides

Wireframe creation stage

We find the most even angle (by eye), which we will further focus on in order to set new marks for the profiles.

Every 60 centimeters we put signs on the walls (60, then 120, then 18, then 240). We repeat the same actions on the other side. Next, you need to measure the profile, cut it off and insert it into the guides at the points where there are marks.

Making measurements

Then we screw on the brackets so that the whole structure is held firmly. We proceed to exposing the frame itself. Again, you will need a second assistant: someone will maintain the level, and another participant will do the fastening of the profiles. This process is shown in detail in this video.


One participant will have to set the level from one edge, and the second from the opposite. Then the level must be turned across and press one of the edges of the level to the guide of the other edge. (Holes for dowels should be drilled at a distance of 35-40 cm). So, the main profiles are inserted into all the guides. This means that you can proceed to the next stage.

Profile attachment

The stage of attaching drywall to the ceiling surface

In order to beautifully and correctly install a suspended plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen, you need to study the following photos with step-by-step instructions for attaching the structure to the surface of the ceiling itself.

We fasten the sheet to the ceiling with one edge on the fixed profile, and snap the second

The drywall sheet can now be moved to the right or left

After fixing the sheet to the screws, we remove the supporting profiles and use them for other sheets.

To attach the plasterboard material to the created frame on the ceiling, we divide the technology into the following steps:

  1. We cut the sheets with a hacksaw. A hacksaw should be chosen with fine teeth to make it easier to cut (a clerical knife is also suitable). We cut the material 120 by 250 or 120 by 125 centimeters. Make sure all joints are even. You need to cut on the most even horizontal, it is best to choose a large table or floor.

    Cut with a hacksaw

  2. Processing with a planer. We use the plane to process the resulting edge. If you eventually notice edges that remain and protrude slightly, remove them with a sharp knife.

    We process with a plane

  3. Cut out holes for fixtures or lamps, if necessary according to the plan. Here it is necessary to clearly measure everything in advance and place it first on the plan, and then mark the location on the drywall.

    Cutting holes for lamps

  4. Directly the surface finish itself with sheets of drywall. There are two ways of attaching the material to the ceiling: transversely or longitudinally. Transverse - we place the sheets strictly perpendicular to the metal profiles, longitudinally - we place them parallel to the bearing profiles. Self-tapping screws must be installed at a distance of 10 to 15 mm, retreating from the edge of the drywall sheets. The screws are screwed in so that they do not protrude on the front side of the ceiling (watch the depth of screwing). The screws must be screwed into the metal frame by 10 mm. The location and length of the screws will determine the total thickness of the entire ceiling sheathing. The distance at which the screws are located from each other is 150 mm. Make sure that the cardboard is in good condition and not damaged at the points where the screws are attached. This will make the attachment secure. If there is a gap between the ceiling and the walls, it is better to close it with a special corner instead of putty. Another important point: 2 days before installation work, the material should lie in the room, where it will be subsequently installed.

    We fix the sheets to the ceiling

  5. We putty the joints. Wait about 2 days before filling. We carefully examine all the flaws and joints, eliminate them. We clean all surfaces from the remaining dust and unnecessary parts, a reinforcing tape will help here. The putty must be gently pressed with a spatula, in no case leaving air bubbles. We are waiting for the final drying and go through the necessary areas with sandpaper. If necessary, apply a second layer of putty to level the surface, also wait until it is completely dry and work with sandpaper.

    Putty joints

How to install lamps on the ceiling is shown in this video.


Now you can easily build a false ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands, following our instructions in the article, step-by-step photos and videos. You will need patience and attentiveness. After the putty, you can also paint your kitchen ceiling, if you wish, so that a uniform style is maintained throughout the apartment. But usually a suspended ceiling looks beautiful and elegant even without paint.

The choice of materials for finishing the kitchen is always not easy, since something is constantly being prepared in the room, steam is released, fat and oil fly in different directions. Therefore, in order not to become a constant hostage of cleaning, materials are chosen for the kitchen, which are subsequently easy to clean. Is drywall such a material, would it be appropriate in the kitchen? What are its advantages and disadvantages? We will analyze these questions below.

One of the undoubted advantages of a false ceiling in the kitchen is the ability to hide flaws. If your ceiling has defects, then the suspended ceiling will completely hide them. Also, such a coating does not require any surface preparation. There is no need to putty or prime the ceiling.

Plasterboard does not deform, unlike plastic, so you can place lighting fixtures as you like, without fear of damaging the material. At the same time, it is cheap, even together with the purchase of the rest of the materials necessary for fixing, you will not have to spend a lot of money. In addition, its installation is very easy, which saves on hiring specialists. Anyone who has at least some idea of ​​repair work can install a drywall structure with their own hands.

The appearance of drywall structures is diverse. Single-level, multi-level. The choice is so wide that it will definitely bring any project to life. Do you want to make waves on the ceiling, circles, squares, steps or somehow unusual design a light zone with various light elements, all this allows you to make drywall.

All of the above refers to the advantages of a plasterboard ceiling, but it also has disadvantages.

Drywall does not tolerate moisture. In other rooms, this may not have played a role, but in the kitchen, where steam rises and the possibility of flooding, it is very likely that this can become fatal. Also, frequent cleaning seems to be very dubious, you cannot wipe it with a damp cloth, which complicates the cleaning process. You can use waterproof gypsum board, but this will raise the total cost in price. Also, to repel moisture, drywall is covered with moisture-resistant paint.

Of course, installing the right ventilation system in your kitchen will save your ceilings. There should be a hood above the stove and then drywall will be an excellent choice for finishing the ceiling in the kitchen.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Plasterboard ceilings in the kitchen can be made independently, without calling specialists.

Required tools:

  1. Level
  2. Roulette
  3. Puncher
  4. Screwdriver
  5. Gon
  6. Pencil
  7. Hacksaw
  8. Spatula and putty
  9. Reinforcing tape

Lighting. They must be purchased before installing the ceiling.

Based on the type of lighting, decide how many centimeters below the suspended ceiling will be from the main one. If you have spotlights, then you need to retreat more than 8 cm, if not, then 5 cm will go.

An important stage of work is marking. Draw a horizontal line across the entire area of ​​the room. You want to measure all 4 corners and the center of the room. The lowest angle will be the starting point. Mark the desired distance from the floor and draw a horizontal line along the level to all corners. If you have a laser level on hand, it is better to do this work with it.

Drill the holes for the dowels along the drawn lines with a drill, a distance of about 35 cm. Screw in the profiles. After fastening the profiles, it is the turn of the hangers. They are fixed on the ceiling at a distance of 65 cm. For the convenience of work, mark the markings in advance. The main profiles are inserted into guides and fixed on hangers. After that, they need to be bent.

The secondary profiles are attached to the main profiles at the joints of the drywall sheets. You now have a frame for the sheets. Next, it's up to the wiring. You need to lay all the wires in the grooves. Route the wires to the location of the lamps. Next, it's up to the wiring. You need to lay all the wires in the grooves. Route the wires to the location of the lamps.

After all of the above, it is the turn of fastening drywall sheets to the frame. This process is not easy, it takes place in several stages. Before installation, you need to determine how many sheets are required. There are usually more sheets than the perimeter of the room, so they need to be cut. Cut the sheets with a hacksaw or clerical knife, the ends should fit exactly into the frame. The cardboard is cut on both sides and then gently breaks if the knife does not go right through. The cut edge should be straight. Trim if necessary with a knife.

Now you need to cut holes for the lamp, lamps, sockets. Place the lighting fixtures on the sheet and carefully cut the hole with a hacksaw.

Sheets are attached to the frame either longitudinally or across. If you decide to mount across, then the sheets must be placed perpendicular to the bearing profiles. If longitudinal, then in parallel with the bearing profiles. In the presence of additional laths, the installation of sheets is carried out from the corner, if not, then from the end or center. Install self-tapping screws 10 mm from the edge of the sheet, screws from the front side perpendicular to them. The screws must not go through the cardboard. Do not install the sheets close to the wall, they must remain on the profile. When attaching, it is better to work in pairs: one holds, the other holds. The sheets are fitted to each other and fastened to the frame with screws.

It is best to wait a couple of days before applying the putty. This way you can find out if there are any defects. The putty can be used to treat the joints or the entire ceiling. It depends on the quality of the putty itself, it is better to apply a cheap one around the entire perimeter and paint with a roller. Before work, prepare the seams by first cleaning them with a knife. Apply a small layer of putty, then tuck the reinforcement tape inside and apply another layer of putty. After that, you should wait a couple of days until the seams are completely dry. Remove all irregularities with sandpaper. After drying, the surface is painted.

If you decide to make a multi-level ceiling, then you do not need to paint at this stage. On a piece of paper, draw a drawing of the future curly frame and outline the markings on the ceiling. The width of the second level is equal to the width of the first. Fix the guide profile, attach the main guides to it. The profile needs to be bent along the radius of the required sections. Route lamp wires to desired locations. Saw the sheet of the required shape and attach to the profile, as before on the first level. Then it remains only to close the resulting box with a sheet of drywall and install the lamps. Putty the box, wait a couple of days and paint. Your ceiling is ready.

Ceiling design in the interior of the kitchen

Which plasterboard ceiling to choose in the kitchen depends only on your imagination. There are general types of designs that you can change depending on your desires.

The most common option is just a flat single-level ceiling. It hides all flaws and takes up a minimum of height.

A little more difficult to install, but multi-level ceilings look more beautiful. The second level can be made curved, straight, wavy. But it is better not to do this if you have a low kitchen. Tiered ceilings will eat up a lot more space.

Shaped ceiling. Very difficult to install, better not to do it yourself. This design can be decorated with a central decorative element.

Frame ceiling. One of the simplest options for a multi-level ceiling. Consists of several steps. Typically, this design is complemented by several lighting zones.

Diagonal ceiling. The main design element of such a ceiling is various wavy or straight structures.

Zonal ceiling. Such a ceiling allows you to divide the room into several zones. It is very convenient when decorating the kitchen, you can divide the dining area and the cooking area.

Plasterboard ceilings often go side-by-side with different lighting layouts. You can create a spectacular design with a chandelier as the central element.

There is also an option without accents, just distribute different lamps or LED strips along the radius of the ceiling, creating different lighting. This option is convenient for creating different zones and degrees of lighting.