How to prepare a bed under strawberries. Tips of experienced gardens: how to prepare a bed near strawberries

Grown on a personal household plot, tasty, fragrant and large strawberries brings many pleasant emotions to the gardener. But to collect a rich harvest of this berry is not quite simple. Only, knowing the secrets of her landing and care for her, it is possible to grow a delicious strawberry. New bushes of this berry root in late summer or autumn. How to squeeze strawberries in August? Consider a description of the sequence of agrotechnical works before landing seedlings of this culture and ways to plant berry bushes.

How to choose and buy strawberries for landing

To get healthy strawberry bushes, which will grow well without disease and give a large crop of sweet berries, it is necessary to plant high-quality seedlings. How to choose the case for landing? Experts recommend buying annual seedlings with a closed root system (in cups). They should have urine roots with length of at least 5 cm and no more than 3 well-developed leaves.

A good crop give elite strawberry varieties. Excellent will be if you acquire and plant such seedlings on the homestead site. Even for the breeding of this culture, the gardeners use Frigo seedlings, which is carefully selected from the bodies available on the garden, then digs in late autumn and stored in packets with a small negative temperature.

Where is the best buy strawberry seedlings? If you buy it in the markets in private traders, then there is probability that the purchased plant will be infected with diseases and pests. It is best to take healthy seedlings obtained from sterile plants grown according to a special method "from test tubes". Such seedlings sell large manufacturers. In their specialized nurseries, strawberry seedlings are being implemented, starting from the end of July to the beginning of August.

The earlier at the end of the summer you plant the bushes of this plant, the greater the likelihood that there will be a laying of flower kidney, and next year there will be the first harvest. Choosing seedlings, well inspect the seedlings. If you see pale, wrinkled leaves on plants, or there are some points on them, such a material is better not to buy. These features are talking about the poor quality of seedlings, infection with diseases / pests. Purchase strawberry seedlings with the following signs:

• Peat seedlings leaves / with downs, have a rich healthy shiny, green.
• The horn of a seedling has a thickness of at least 0.7 cm.
• The length of the roots in the open seedlings more than 7 cm.
• Saplings do not have damage to the roots, leaves.
• The core is strong, elastic, has a rich green.
• In seedlings in cups or cassettes, the roots should envelop the entire volume of the container in which they are located.
• Peat pot must be with the roots that stitched it through and look out out.

Preparation of soil

Shed strawberries best at the end of the summer season in August. It is advisable to do this in sunny places and on southwestern slopes with a bias of 2-3 degrees. Use plots in lowlands or closed type to grow this plant is not desirable. The soil acidity for the strawberry seedling landing should not be more than 5.5-6.5. A good harvest of bodies of berries will be given if they are planted on chernozem apodoline soils or on a dark gray forest ground, which has an average or light composition.

It will be nice fruit berries on turf-podzolic, samp soils. It is not advisable to plant a strawberry where groundwater is close to the surface. Before planting seedlings on a certain site, it is necessary to pre-explore it for the presence of pests, and when they are detected, to destroy insects with special means. The land for planting strawberries is first cleaned by weeds. Then 2 weeks before the planting seedlings prepare the ground for planting seedlings. 2-3 buckets of organics per square meters are scattered across the territory of the site. m.

After which crops plant: strawberry predecessors

When choosing a plot for planting strawberries, consider which plant grew on it before. It is not necessary to use the land to grow this delicious berry, if there recently grew plants from a family of comprehensive, iltike or tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, sunflower. So after which you can squeeze strawberries? And is it possible to plant this plant after the bow? The harvest of berries will be good if you plan seedlings into the soil, where they previously grew:

• peas;
• beans;
• radish;
• garlic;
• parsley;
• radish;
• mustard;
• dill;
• salad;
• oats;

At what distance to root the berry: landing scheme with photos

When landing seedlings should not be too plunged into the ground, otherwise the central point or heartbeat will be lower than the level of the soil, which will lead to the death of the plant. To allow shallow strawberry landing is also impossible. This is fraught with a drying of the heart and the death of the chest. Seedlings are well rooted and will grow, if you put it so that the central point of the seedling is slightly performed above the surface of the soil.

• When disembarking seedlings in the hole, you need to make a holmik in it and put a plant on it.
• Roots can not be bent, they must smoothly descend on the tubercle. If they are too long, necessarily cut them a little.
• After planting seedlings, the plant should be abundantly to pour and make a solution of HV 101- 93 under each seedling, diluting 93 drops of this substance in 1 liter of water.
• Then young bushes are mounted with a compost (5-6 cm) or straw, hay, sawdust (10 cm) and are covered with a special material to create a greenhouse effect for better rooting seedlings.

In the future, they produce regular quilt and remove the mustache. If after planting seedlings is dry weather, you need to water the culture so that the land on the site is wet. During this period there is a laying of flower kidneys, on which the berry harvest next year depends. Strawberry landing schemes There are several:

• Single-line. This landing seedlings in one row. The distance between the bushes of plants should be 15-20 cm, and between the rows - 60-70 cm.
• Twin. This landing with ribbons consisting of 2 rows of bushes. The distance between the ribbons is 60-70 cm, rows - 30 cm, bushes - 15-20 cm.
• Natural agrotechnology. With this scheme, seedlings are planted every 50 cm in one row on the beds with a width of 50 cm. The distance between the rows is 50 cm.

How to eat the soil before landing

2 weeks before planting seedlings, it is advisable to deposit in the soil (for each 1 m2) of 40 g of dual superphosphate, up to 20 g of potash fertilizers (wood ash or sulcate potassium). In the wells for disembarking, seedlings are preferably preferably added the organic. To do this, dig up for each sapar 25x25x25 and fill it with a mixture consisting of 1 bucket of the earth from a plot, 1 bucket of compost, 1 bucket of overworked horse manure, 2 glasses of ash.

Landing Garden Strawberry Usami in Open Ground

One of the methods of obtaining the seedlings of strawberries is to rouding the mustache from the specially prepared uterine busta of this culture. On such shoots, sockets and their root system are formed:

• 2 weeks before the transplantation of a young seedling obtained from the rooting of mustache, scissors separated from an adult plant. From now on, he will go to his own food.
• When strawberry outlets are driving, transfer them to a permanent place. And when to squeeze strawberries with a mustache? This process is better to start producing from the end of July to the end of August. It is necessary to do it on a cloudy day or in the evening, so that the root system of the plant is well adapted to a new place.
• Plot for strawberry disembarkaway to the ranks with a distance between them 1 m. Squeeze strawberries at a distance of 20-30 cm between bushes.
• Poam depth for strawberry seedlings Make 15 cm.
• The core of the socket after landing should be at the soil level. It is important not to deepen it and do not leave over the soil so that the bush does not die.

How to put under the black film

To obtain a large yield of strawberries, gardeners use a plant planting method for black film or agrofiber. These devices cover the entire area. In the film make holes for planting berry bushes. Black material on the ground does not miss the sunlight, and weeds and other, unwanted on this plot, plants are not growing under it. To implement this method of planting:

• Purchase agrofiber or black film, an area equal to the size of the strawberry future plantation site.
• Next, the mulching material bed to the ground, laying its corners into the pits around the perimeter and falling asleep soil.
• Then start the planting process of seedlings. It is desirable to plant them in a chess with a distance between the bushes of 25-30 cm.
• In the film, pre-accommodate the places for the wells and make small perpendicular cuts in them.
• Then, through each hole, dig up the holes with your hands and land the seedlings.
• The holes in the film should not be large so as not to provoke the growth of weeds.

What a fertilizer to use or be born in autumn

Plants planted in August need to focus. This makes different substances. It is useful to handle a strawberry solution consisting of 30 g of urea and 10 liters of water. Extra-corner feeder produce boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. The treated bushes will bring more harvest in the summer, and the quality of the berries will be higher than on the plants that are not filled with these substances. To make a mixture for feeding, prepare the following components:

• molybdenum - 2 g;
• manganese - 50 g;
• boric acid - 15 g;
• water - 15 liters.

Caring for the autumn behind the strawberry includes the preparation of the plant for winter. They cover the bushes of this culture straw, peat, compost, foliage or stems of corn. These natural substances will not only retain plants in winter from the jellows, but also fit the soil. Special materials are used as mulching bushes - Spanbond, Loutrasil. Sheltered strawberries will be protected from frosts and next year will give a good harvest. Further agrowork with strawberries begin in April.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries nearby

In some reviews of gardeners, a deep conviction is traced that it is impossible to plant various varieties of strawberries. So they are reversible among themselves, and then on their bushes, the quality of berries becomes worse. But experts argue that the reason for the deterioration of the harvest in such cases is not that there is an overoperation, but because the degeneration of the plant is.

If a little deepen in the botany, you can remember that when pollution of crops, double fertilization occurs. As a result of this process, seeds are obtained that have genetic information from the pollinator plant. However, the case with strawberries is different, because her fetus is not entirely the fact that under this term understands Botany.

A juicy red berry on the bush of this culture is the resulting color, which is part of the parent plant and carries only its genetic signs. Therefore, culture, pollen of which strawberry flowers are pollinated, does not affect the quality of berries. So, it's not forbidden to plant different varieties. But when the plant is reproduced, it is important not to confuse, which varieties of strawberries include a daughter socket.

Video: Landing technology on observer material

Experienced gardeners are preferred for growing strawberries to use black film, spanbond, agrofiber. The technology of planting seedlings of this plant on the observed material allows you to get a good harvest and warns the appearance of weeds. About the features of landing seedlings on agrovoloca, spunbond you will learn from 3-videos below, where different ways of rooting seedlings are shown.

Under black spunbond

How to put under the agriculture

Original planting way

Strawberry landing in the photo

When they choose the place of landing of strawberries on a plot where culture will be comfortable, take into account its biological features. First of all, we remember that the strawberries are very light-friendly. The number and quality of strawberry berries is directly proportional to the amount of solar energy obtained by plants. For this reason, the place for landing the seedlings of strawberries in the spring is chosen solar. The duration of the berry lighting straight solar rays should be at least 8-10 hours per day. Even with a small shading, all varieties have a delay in the timing of flowering and ripening of the berries for 7-10 days, the overall yield and, most importantly, the taste of berries is sharply deteriorated. Fruits become watery and sour. The loss of crop from gray rot in shaded places increases, and the leaves are stronger than the damage of all kinds of fungal infections.

In places with a slight openwork shading - under the crowns of adult fruit trees - only a fine-flower strawberry can be planted for efficiently use areas. In this culture, the reduction in the yield from shading is least noticeable.

The second, which in no case should not be forgotten, this is what strawberries are very demanding culture to the level of soil fertility. Therefore, when choosing a place to land the seedlings of strawberries in the spring we assign the most fertile plots for it.

We definitely pay attention to the mechanical composition of the soil and water regime. The mechanical composition of the soil is the best option for planting strawberries and strawberries - Lightweight Suglinki. In areas with severe clay soils and in raw nizenas with a stagnation stagnation in the autumn-winter period, strawberries are growing very bad. The root system boosts, leaves, and berries are strongly damaged by fungal diseases. Undoubtedly for strawberries Plots with groundwater running closer than 1 meter.

Subject to regular irrigation and strawberry feeding well, it feels well on the soils with a high content of sand. But the southern slopes with light soils and areas on elevations are still not the best option. In winter, on the slopes, especially sharp, strawberries can greatly moderate due to the fact that snow blows away from the planting. In the dry years, the plants in the last time will suffer from overheating and lack of moisture. In this case, it is necessary to provide an opportunity to carry out the possibility of watering.

Video: How to put a strawberry spring

Strawberry Predecessors for Proper Spring Planting in Open Ground

Science recommends annually updating part of the strawberry planting, but to return to the old place in 3 years, alternating the cultivation of berries and vegetable crops. It is clear that on ordinary country areas for such a demanding culture there are not so many suitable places, and it is not very realistic to ensure compliance with long crop rotation. In critical cases, it is necessary to take a break between strawberry landings after strawberry minimum.

The best option is a spring planting of strawberries on a black pair, that is, on the plot that all summer is treated, but nothing is planted there.

From among the precursors to properly fit the strawberries, all plants of the Polenic family (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants) and pumpkin (zucchini, patissons and pumpkin) are excluded. The cultivation of these plants increases the overall infectious background in the soil - provokes the development of various root rot.

Of decorative cultures, dangerous strawberry predecessors when landing, as well as strawberries, subject to root rot, annual asters, Clematis, chrysanthemums, gladiolus and other bully.

Such cultures like onions, garlic and beets as precursors can provoke an outbreak of damage to soil nematodes. For this reason, it is undesirable and their neighborhood with strawberries.

Excellent precursors for the spring planting of strawberries in the open soil, capable of healthing soil, these are plant-sites - Nasturtium, mustard, Facelium or Vico-oatmeal. After the cultivation of the Siderators, their green mass is crushed and smeared into the soil, which can be considered an equivalent making of 1.5-2 kg of overworked manure per square meter of the square. The introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers can be transferred to a seerful culture, which will significantly reduce the blocking of the site.

In the scale of the garden plot, it is not always possible, but we need to try to place strawberry beds away from landing of raspberries and apple trees. In the spring time, when flowering, they have a common dangerous pest - Malino-strawberry weevil.

The presented landing of strawberries in the photo shows how to choose the right place:

Step number 1
Step number 2.

Step number 3.
Step number 4.

Soil for planting strawberries: how to properly prepare the earth in the spring

Sensity in the preparation of the soil for planting strawberries and economies of organic and mineral fertilizers with the main refueling is prolonged and difficult to subsequently eliminated the error of many gardeners.

If the soil under the planting of strawberries is discharged on a new site, where there is a natural herbage - Dernin, then the soil begin to cook at least a year. Previously, the injured areas begin to prepare for the spring landing in the fall, for the summer-autumn date - about a month before the alleged landing.

Before prepare the Earth for the Strawberry Planting, to remove the most malicious weeds, such as binders, drinking, sick and odd, on highly clogged areas it is quite possible to use herbicides.

The optimal level of soil acidity for planting strawberries in spring 5.2 - 5.5 pp. If the soil on the site is more sour, then the deoxidation of the lime is desirable to spend in one or two years before disembarking strawberries. Before you properly land the strawberry in the spring, you need to know that the approximate dose depending on the initial acidity ranges from 400 to 600 g of limestone or dolomite flour per square meter. Dolomitic flour is preferable, since further enriches the acidic soil by magnesium.

Before prepare the soil for planting strawberries, you need to decide where to grow: in high ridges or on a flat surface? The question remains open, since the correct answer to it is depends solely on the microclum features of the site and the degree of alumination of the soil. On strongly clogged, heavy clay soils and non-cultural raw plots (where plants suffer more from excess moisture and lack of heat) The construction of a variety of from 10 to 30 cm completely bulk soil is often in general - the only possible way to grow strawberries. On dry areas with light sandy soils (where plants suffer more from overheating and lack of moisture) or sections with a high degree of emphasis (low clogging, the optimal mechanical composition of the soil) It is quite possible to successfully grow strawberries on a flat surface.

But whatever way you choose, the preparation of the Earth for the landing of strawberries after the removal of weeds begins with a solid people to the maximum possible depth. The most modest option is the depth of the full bayonet shovel, i.e. at least 25-27 cm.

Preparation of soil and beds for planting strawberries early spring: what fertilizers to enter

Since more than once we have already reminded that strawberry - culture is very demanding to the level of soil fertility, for the enrichment of deep layers of nutrients to the reinforced (plowed) area, organic and mineral fertilizers should be made, which is called the main preset soil refueling. The amount of fertilizer introduced may vary depending on the level of fertility and precursors. What fertilizers to enter the strawberry when planting, depends on the state of the soil and its well-kee. For a conventional indental area, during the preparation of the soil for planting strawberries, it is possible to focus on the averaged doses - 6-10 kg of organic fertilizers (low-aluminum peat, overwhelmed manure (humid) or country compost), 100 g of superphosphate and 120 potassium gulfate are added to one square meter. It is possible to replace the phosphorus-potash fertilizer ashes at the calculation of 150-200 g per square meter.

If the strawberry planting early spring will be produced on heavy soils, it is advisable to put sand to improve the mechanical composition.

After the second step and seal in the soil of nutrients, the surface is spilled with robbles, breaking large wrenches. After that, they begin to build a variety or breakdown of rows, depending on the selected cultivation option.

Rows or beds under the landing of strawberry agronomists advise to form along the North-South line. In this case, all plants will be evenly covered during the day first from the eastern day, then from the west side. With a different orientation of the series (East-West), the berries from the northern side of the bush during ripening are obtained less painted.

Video: Strawberry landing and care

Strawberry planting scheme in spring in open ground

The correct planting scheme of the strawberry in the spring should provide for plants an optimal level of illumination and mineral nutrition, and for the gardening - the convenience and safety of carrying out all the care works, as well as the efficient use of the area. For these important reasons, approach the choice of landing scheme is needed quite seriously.

The main rules for planting strawberries in the spring should be available to familiarize themselves with all novice gardeners.

• To obtain a harvest of berries, all ordinary varieties of large-scale strawberries can and even preferably land nearby. They have similar requirements for agrotechnology, and for reversal it is good. It is possible to plant red-and white varieties nearby, they will not change their color from the neighborhood.

Planting removable varieties on one bed with usual is not recommended, since the latter require increased attention and care, a different regime of feeding and watering.

Small-flowing strawberries and landlord is better to plant separate beds or venues.

• The length of a variety or ranks is mainly determined by the size and configuration of the site, as well as issues of convenience and technology to further care of plants. It is necessary to provide in advance to convenient and safe tracks for the passage when conducting watering and driving with a garden trolley during feeding and weeding.
• The choice of the width of the parties is determined by the search for the balance between the convenience of planting operations and the efficiency of the area of \u200b\u200bsite. Wide aisle more than 70 cm provide convenience when working, good lighting and mineral nutrition of plants, but low efficiency of use of the area. The narrow aisle is-per 40 cm - allow many plants on a unit area, but significantly make it difficult to carry out care. In addition, very smaller and "past" varieties quickly goes to the landings. This in turn worsens the conditions for the growth and development of plants, provokes a surge of fungal diseases.

The optimal size of the parties can be called a value from 40 to 70 cm.

Distance between strawberry bushes when landing

The distance between the strawberry bushes during landing in rows largely depends on the varietal features and method of cultivation. When planning intensive technology of growing with a quick change of plants (no more than 2 seasons), the landing scheme is chosen more dense with minimal distances between the rows and between the plants. If you plan to use plants for a long time, then more preferable to plant planting.

When buying seedlings, it is important to find out from the seller or in the future from other sources information is not only about the size of berries and yields, but also about the height, limpness and "satiety" of the variety. This depends on the planting scheme of plants and, accordingly, the required amount of planting material. According to scientific recommendations, the strongest, denominated and "suitable" varieties need to be planted with a large distance between the plants in the row from 30 to 40 cm. For varieties of low-defense and little, these standards are reduced to 20-30 cm.

When determining the strawberry landing scheme in the open ground, think in advance about whether you are planning not only to get berries, but independently update the strawberries by disrupting the mustache. In this case, between the varieties, it is necessary to provide spatial insulation of at least 1 m. Otherwise, in less than a season, you will receive the present "Olivier" from varieties in which more messedy varieties will be outset less prolific neighbors.

Ways and options for planting strawberries in beds (with photos)

With any method of planting strawberries, general rules should be followed: The soil preparation must be completed in one or two weeks, there should be no major comers, it is dangerous to suit the seedlings to the seedlings in the unknown land, a day or two before the landing, it is advisable to shed a prepared site. In the hot summer days, the seedlings are rapidly in the evening.

For seedlings with an open root system on the day of planting for the prevention of damage to root rot or spotting the leaves of the plant disinfect. For these purposes, the potassium permanganate solution is suitable - 1 g of dry matter on 10 liters of water. In such a solution, plants are washed. Another good way is to withstand the seedlings in the solution for 5 minutes, for the preparation of which on 5 liters of water takes 2 straw spoons of the cooking salt and 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate. After that, seedlings are necessarily rinsed with clean water.

Methods for planting strawberries in beds are most optimal for flooded, raw and clay sites. For the convenience of landing, they use a scoop or other such a fixture. With it, they dig a hole slightly deeper and wider than the size of the root system of the plant. If the soil is dry, then each well needs to shed. Water consumption 0.5-07 liters on the well. Next, the seedlings with a lump of land are removed from the plastic cup and placed in the center of the well. Peat cups are not removed to once again not damage the root system.

Popping the plant with soil, remember about the "gold rules of strawberries." Heart in no way should be shuffled. If you are not sure that you can place it at the soil level, it is better to leave a little higher than at least a little, but to burst. High landing defects are not as dangerous and corrected in further mulching. Blowing (especially when landing under the winter) cannot be corrected, and the consequences are destructive for the plant.

By sprinkling the plant with soil, crimp around the hands so that air cavities and roots were not formed around the roots and the roots immediately got contact. To check the quality of planting, you can pull the sheet: if the plant does not pull out of the ground, it is planted correctly.

Immediately after landing, young bushes need to pour well and do it regularly (in the absence of rains) for another 7-10 days. The addition of biological stimulants of growth of type of humate to irrigated water contributes to the active growth of young roots and the observing of plants.

Check out the strawberry landing options in the photo, where all technologies and methods are shown:

If when planting seedlings with an open root system is dry and hot weather, such plants in the daytime should be contacted from direct sunlight using white agro bears or paper. They are coming out longer and more difficult than plants with a lore of the earth, to ensure that only two or three weeks are permanently approved.

Recently, it is often necessary to hear the disputes about whether the growing is good for strawberries with solid mulching (coating) of the soil surface to agro bellows - black nonwoven material. This method has several undeniable advantages for gardeners in the form of a significant reduction in labor costs for weeding and reduce the evaporation of soil moisture in arid regions. However, it is advised to apply it with great care - after all, the solid shelter of the soil surface makes it impossible to regularly carry out loosening and people of rods. On raw plots, it makes it difficult to ventilating and drying the soil.

The use of non-polyethylene film is destroying for plant strawberries as a covering of non-fuseous air and moisture.

But the most important problem is the impossibility of holding a favorite and necessary for strawberries procedures - plant mulching by a layer of organics. For these reasons, with all the convenience for a gardener of such a method of cultivation, it is definitely positive and recommended to widespread use.

In one place, the strawberries can grow up to 6 years, but the peak of its active fruiting is to have the 3rd and 4th years of growth. Therefore, the bed for this berry is preparing thoroughly. I cite an example, as I do a bed for strawberries.

I'm leaving the land, tearing a trench, laying inside the compost and buried. From above, scattering mineral fertilizer Superphosphate (norm - in accordance with the instructions). If there is sand or humus, you can add them to better soil loosenings.

Then the garden is harrowing (spilling) with robbles. Further, shedding the Earth Bio Fungicide is natural protection against mushroom and bacterial diseases. I buy the drug in the form of a paste and it is prepared from it a liquid solution, dissolving 1 part of the paste in 2 parts of the rainwater (in this form, the solution can be stored the whole season). And then it is prepared from this main solution: 1 tbsp. l. liquid preparation for 10 liters. WATER - for 1 square. m.

• The rules for processing the earth under the strawberry or any other landings I have almost the same. The main thing in this processing does not use chemistry. If you sometimes have to use chemicals, I try to do it with caution and minimize.

If there is a black covering material - spunbond - they cover the bed for a couple of weeks, if there is no material, then you can close the film or even the boards. The land should remain wet.

Compost, which I use, unplanned and this is good. After all, after a couple of weeks, the soil is transformed (it is clearly visible and in the video below)! It becomes crumbly, the color of more black, the number of earthworms is added. My strawberry is growing in one place up to 4 years, and the first two years I have a very little feeding the berry - the main nutrition of the berry receives from the compost and properly prepared land.

The berry calmly transfers the increased acidity of the soil, so I do not scatter any batch or harated. But ash can be added when landing.

I make a width of the bed for strawberries about 70-80 cm. I have two rows of bushes at a distance of 20-25 cm. From the edge and 30-35 cm. One row from the other and between bushes. If there is an opportunity, the beds fencing with slate, so that the edges do not appear, but most importantly, so that there is no slug plant. They, with their gentle calves, simply not under the power of the Schifer's rough surface.

After planting strawberries, I carefully shed.

Something I put a strawberry under the spanbond. I liberated myself from the weeding and frequent watering, but the ants are often breeding. This is a photo of past years.

I often read that the best time to plant strawberries from July 25 to August 10. But I put a strawberry and later. The main thing is that I comply with: the prepared garden should stand hidden at least 2nd weeks and landing seedlings no later than 25 August. Remember that landing time in each region is different.

On slate (or any other edging), I definitely make a marker mark - the year of planting strawberries.

When landing new bushes, I definitely cut off all the leaves, and at the mustache most of them, leaving no more than 2. Strawberry time to grow green and prepare for wintering long before the onset of night minus temperatures.

Article author: Love

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Preparation of beds under the strawberries usually begins in summer. At the end of July or in August it is time to determine the method of forming a variety, choose a plot, prepare soil and fertilizer. Do not know where to start to properly prepare a bed for strawberries? So, our today's article is for you.

All the beloved berry is grown by the most different ways. And how many variants are used grocery grocery - do not count! Here are some of them:

• simple bulk;
• high;
• trenches;
• pyramidal;
• vertical;
• decorative.

There are possesses and cons of each species, and we will talk about them. But first, we have to find out what soils prefers strawberries, where and how best to place the beds, which fertilizers need to be entered into the ground before planting.

Where to plant strawberries: Choose a place to bed

Plot under the strawberry

Strawberry grows well and fruits in the sun. Shaded and raw places are not suitable for her. First, elevated humidity is one of the reasons for all sorts of rotors, fungal and viral diseases. Secondly, the overabundance of water affects the taste and transportability of the berries: it becomes water and soft.

The beds are best distinguished from the east to the west so that the bushes for the day received a sufficient amount of light.

The optimal time for planting strawberries is the end of summer - the beginning of the autumn (although the spring is not rebored in the spring). Just in August-September a lot of planting material, there is plenty to choose from.

But it is possible to decide on the place under the garden. For example, choose the spring of a suitable area and falling on it with lupine (the best shine under the strawberry). Before planting strawberries, lupine is mounted, and the garden is shed with a solution of um preparations.

No spring free plot? Nothing wrong. We form a bed in the summer, focusing on good precursors.

Predecessors and neighbors

The most appropriate strawberry predecessor is garlic. Just in August, garlic matures, the garden is released and no need to think long, where to plant strawberries.

In addition to garlic to good strawberry precursors include:

• onion and bulbous flowers;
• radishes, carrots, tours;
• beans, peas and other legumes;
• celery, parsley.

Preparation of soil

Strawberry is growing well on loamy weakness (pH 5.5-6) \u200b\u200bsoils with a large content of organics. But whatever originally was the soil on our site, to provide a strawberry bed with a light, loose, fertile soil for us.

There are two ways to cook soil for strawberries:

• step by land with fertilizers and organic matter;
• separately mix multiple components, and then fall asleep the finished soil bed.

With the rescope, everything is quite simple. Not later than a month before the landing, the selected area is leaving on the bayonet shovels. If the ground is heavy, clay, add one of the loosening materials to the garden:

• swivel sawdust with urea and ash (by 10 kilograms of sawdust 2 tablespoons of urea, dissolved in 2 liters of water, and 1 cup of ash);
• peat with ash (one cup of ash on the bucket of peat);
• sand.

Also, at a peroxide for each square meter of soil, it is recommended to make fertilizers:

• 5-6 kilograms of manure (another option: 6-8 kilograms of compost or humus);
• 50 grams of superphosphate;
• 15 grams of sulcate potassium
• 50 grams of urea.

You can do without resistance. In this case, we will need a turden land, compost (or humid), peat and sawdust. All components take equal fractions and mix. After that, fill the prepared place for the bed. In this way, the soil is prepared for growing strawberries, for example, on vertical beds - in pipes, pyramids, etc.

So, we chose the appropriate place, determine the composition of the soil. It remains to understand which type of bed will satisfy us in all respects.

Bulk ridges

The easiest option is the usual bulk bed. It is good because it does not require additional materials and is relatively easy to form.

First, the area is drunk with fertilizer. Then separated by its furrows, forming a bed with a width of 20 to 50 centimeters. The recommended garden height above the groove level is 20 centimeters. This is enough for outflow of excess water.

Disadvantages of bulk is also there. They are easily blurred by strong rains. They are low, require work in approaching yes to the jury. Nevertheless, this kind of garden grocery is choosing most often. However, for raw pieces with close running groundwater, bulk beds under the strawberry are not suitable.

High ridges

But the high ridges are perfect where there is a lot of water! Over the construction of such a bed will have to workar longer, and it is a little to spend on building materials. High beds do this:

• The selected area is wallped with boards, slate, iron sheets, brick, etc. You can learn the box from the boards in advance, you can generally buy a ready-made frame for bed. The height of the fence can be from 40 to 80 centimeters.
• At the bottom of the future beds create a drainage layer of 15 centimeters. They can serve as claymps, brick fragments or small branches of trees.
• From above covered with easily speaking organic matter: leaves, beveled grass, kitchen waste, straw. This layer will ensure heat and nutrition.
• The next layer is placed a mixture of humidiation, compost, peat and turf. This loose soil is finally filled with the whole design and slightly tamper it.

Groke is ready. Her advantages are obvious:

• allows you to grow strawberries in lowlands;
• additionally feeds and warms the roots;
• facilitates the care of plants counted its height;
• makes it possible to grow strawberries in a cool climate;
• can become elements of design.

Disadvantages of high ridges are also available. First, they require financial and labor costs. Secondly, they dry faster - they will have to water them more often than usual. Nevertheless, high beds confidently conquer popularity from our dacities.

Strawberry in trenches

Trenches are a great variant of the beds for dry plots. They are best prepared in the fall and leave until the next season so that the organic care inside has managed to completely drive.

Perhaps the only minus of the trench in its labor intensity. After all, it must be digging up at least 30-40 centimeters in depth, and can be deeper. Deep trench fill in two stages. The bottom is placed fresh organic, and then fall asleep to the edges with a mixture of compost and land. The same soil mixture is filled with minor trenches.

The main advantage of the garden-trench is that moisture is held longer. With proper mulching, such beds practically do not need watering.

Landing for agriculture or black film

Technology for creating a bed under the cover of a little more complicated by the usual bed. Gardeners love to squeeze strawberries under black agrofiber or film for the following reasons:

• in the spring, the soil under the shelter is heated faster;
• the garden is not blurred by water streams with strong shower;
• weeds are almost impossible to break through the fiber;
• berries are always clean.

And to the cons of this option, it is possible to attribute the costs of observer material. It is not surprising that similar beds are found almost every plot.

Stages of the formation of a garden under the agriculture initially do not differ from the creation of a bulk bed:

• pumping selected area with the addition of fertilizers;
• markup of furrow and a variety;
• the creation of high bulk ridges (up to 50 centimeters height) by turning the earth from the furrows;
• the shelter is a variety (including furrows) with black agricultural or film;
• fixing the cover with metal pins, stones, bricks, boards, gravel (you can just fall asleep the edges of the agricultural land and tamper);
• slashing material in places planting strawberry bushes.

It should be noted that the black agricultural fiber as a shelter is preferable to the film, because air and water passes.

Vertical Grokes

Vertical beds - a favorite version of gardeners experimenters, creative people and owners of small sites, where every block of land is registered. Pyramids from boxes and pots, barrels, tires, pipes, shelves - wherever they plant inventive gardens to strawberries.

Growing strawberries in tires or barrels

This method of growing strawberries does not differ in principle from high beds. Only as a frame used not boards with slate, but old car tires mounted on each other or the protested barrels. In such a design, 4-5 strawberry bushes are placed.

The barrel can be filled with the ground, you can half-organic waste (grass, foliage, tops, weeds), and half-soil mixture. Such a bed is convenient to handle: it is not necessary to go low. But it needs to water more often. And once every 2-3 years change the soil for the prevention of strawberry diseases.

Strawberry in PVC pipes

Broke berries hanging down the pipe, look great. For the sake of such beauty, some gardeners are uncoated to work. True, in the winter such a bed must be removed at least in the cellar or garage, otherwise the strawberry bushes threaten the extinction. But if you live in the southern region and love to make a cracked materials, why not try?

To create a vertical bed in the pipe will be needed:

• pVC pipes of large diameter;
• hose or tube of small diameter;
• drill with a nozzle for cutting round holes;
• covers for pipes;
• sealant.

The process of creating a bed in a pipe consists of the following steps:

• Holes (3-5 centimeters in diameter) drill over the entire surface of the pipe;
• There are also many small holes in the hose or small pipe;
• Inside the large pipe insert hose (or small pipe);
• Hermetically closed the lower end of both pipes with covers;
• The space between the inner and the outer pipe is filled with soil;
• Strawberry bushes planted into the holes;
• Watering and feeding are produced through a small pipe (hose).

Girro-pyramids

The pyramidal bed is a kind of high and vertical girk hybrid. One of the advantages of the pyramid - saving space. Therefore, it is not better suitable for a small area.

After completing the preparation of the beds for strawberries, reassured the gardener early. One still has a painstaking business - planting strawberry bushes.

We wish you success and big harvests!

Now that we have learned a lot about the history of this extraordinary culture, about the structure of strawberries, about the diversity of her varieties, it is time to move from theory to practice.

We must choose a place under the strawberries and prepare it well, to acquire or grow seedlings of strawberries and start landing.

But for this you need to learn all the conditions of growing strawberries. So that our "strawberry pancake" did not come out with a com, we must very carefully approach the preparatory process: to take into account all the wisdom when growing garden strawberries, listen to the advice of experienced gardeners, to pay a bit of a bit of warmth and care.

First of all, let's determine how many bushes of garden strawberries we will plant, because the size of the landing site will be dependent.

This is a very important question, as the strawberry requires a rather much attention to them, so that our beds are always in order.

Therefore, it is necessary to put it as much as we can cost.

After all, even with a small area, but well-groomed, breeding, we can get a much greater harvest than with a big plantation, followed by which we will not have time to care for.

Choose a place under the strawberry

Choosing a place to land on our beloved berry is very responsible, as the further development of the plant depend on it, and its yield.

So we will have to do with you, as they say, "measure seven times and only to cut off once."

Garden strawberry prefers to grow on well-lit plots, which are also protected from winds.

Of course, she can grow in the shade, but then the strawberries will stretch, the leaves will grow more active, and not berries.

The berries will be greater than the berries will be longer, and the taste will be much sour, and there will be much more in their cultivation.

To protect the landing of garden strawberries from the wind, planting it under the barrier of buildings or shrubs, fruit trees. If there is no such possibility, you can create a wind screen from sunflower or corn, putting them in two rows.

Strawberry prefers to grow on a flat surface or on a small slope. It is best if the slope is facing southwest.

Plant berries, in this case, it is necessary in the middle or lower part of the slope, but not only in the top. Rows of garden strawberries located across the slope so that first - to save my thawy water in the spring, and secondly - to save from flush the upper arable layer of the Earth.

Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Our favorite loves to grow on neutral or weakly acidic soils. If it is very sour, then be sure to make it.

The best option to hold lime for a year before landing garden strawberries (even under the preceding culture) or as a last resort two months before landing.

By making lime into the soil in front of the landing, you thus strongly slow down the growth of the roots of the plant. And so the seedlings of garden strawberries will be quite long.

Does not like strawberries and low places with a level of groundwater level less than 0.8-1.0 m.

If you do not have higher seats on the site, then plant strawberries on bulk beds at least 25-30 cm high.

Since the strawberry gives the best harvest in the second and third years after landing, it is recommended every 3-4 (as a last resort of 4-5 years) to replant with a new place.

And only after 2-3 years it will be possible to return the berry to the former place.

Very important for strawberries and the right crop rotation: so the berry grows well after garlic, onions, radish, parsley and other greens, carrots, legumes, siters; It is undesirable to plant after pasty, pumpkin, since there is a possibility of damage to root rot or nematode.

And one more advice, place your strawberry cleaner away from landing raspberries and plums, due to the fact that there is a danger of losing half of the crop from Malino-strawberry weevil.

How to prepare the soil

As we already know, from the history of the development of our strawberries, it began to form in deciduous forests, on the edges and glades, that is, where the soil is being enriching the tillage with the help of an annual leaf fall.

The roots of the plant are short-lived, so it can feed from the most fertile soil layers. From this it follows that skinny, underwent soils are not for our favorite.

But the most suitable for her will be fertile subliban soils with a good humid horizon. Here on such soils, the garden strawberries will give us excellent crops.

How to be if your site does not meet these requirements? So you need to improve the soil yourself, because we, dacnis, do not get used to fight difficulties.

If you got a sandy plot, add clays and humus (0.5-1.0 bucket of dry clay and 2-3 buckets by m²).

If your soil is clay, severe, add peat (1-2 buckets per m²), which will make it more loose and rich in oxygen. Also on such a soil it is necessary to carry out drainage work.

Due to the fact that the garden strawberries are growing in one place for several years, it is very important to properly prepare the ground under the landing and make a sufficient number of preset fertilizers.

And to prepare it best in advance. So, if we are going to plant a strawberry in the spring, then the beds should be engaged in the fall, and if at the end of summer, then at least two months before the landing.

First, for the first year, we grow seedrates according to such a scheme: in May, we sow a wicco oatmeal, in July we close it in the soil and sowing the radish oil, Facelius, mustard. These plants can be left for the winter.

In the spring of next year, they are leaving this plot and sow Lupine annual, which in early July we close in the soil. And in a month you can start landing strawberries.

This method of increasing the soil fertility is also good in the absence of organic fertilizers.

Soil preparation for spring landing

On the selected area we introduce semi-proxulated manure, humid or compost (8-10 kg per m² of one of three), wood ash (200 g), potash fertilizers (20 g).

Fresh manure and chlorine-containing fertilizers are undesirable under the strawberries.

Uniformly distribute fertilizers in the area and leakage it, trying not to endure a non-frozen soil layer on the surface.

At the same time, carefully choose all the large and small roots of such perennial weeds, like drinking, odds and others, the like.

Then we spill a robust plot with robbles and in this form we leave it under the winter.

In the spring before planting strawberries, we introduce the following mineral fertilizers: double superphosphate - 25 g per 1 sq. M. m, sulfate potassium - 25 g per 1 square. m.

Fertilizers evenly scatter on the site and finish it in the soil.

Soil preparation for summer-autumn landing

If you prefer to plant a garden strawberries in August-September, then the main fertilizers are best made under predecessor plants.

If you failed to do this, then (as I said earlier) Try to prepare the soil of the month for two to the landing.

In case of non-fulfillment and these deadlines, the last chance remains well to prepare for landing of strawberries - 2 weeks before landing seedlings to prepare a garden, but the number of fertilizers introduced should be reduced by 30%.

Choose varieties and saplings of garden strawberries

So, we chose the place under the landing of strawberries, the soil prepared in advance.

Now we will define what varieties we will plant. First of all, try to choose local, zoned varieties of strawberries, which have already shown themselves in your climatic conditions.

In order for this magnificent fragrant berries at your desk as possible, I advise you to acquire some early ripening seedlings (10%), medium and medium-sized (60%), as well as late maturity varieties (30%).

Do not forget to plant and repairing varieties, both strawberries of forest, and strawberry garden. And then you will have berries from spring to the most frosts.

We buy seedlings

Much attention is paid to the quality of the planting material, because this is the basis of all your future yields.

Of course, it is best to acquire seedlings in proven nurseries, where it will be strong and healthy.

In the market or from strangers, it is advisable not to buy, since there is a risk of acquiring weakened, infected plants or at all seedlings of varieties of weed strawberries, which we talked about in the previous article.

What, first of all, you need to pay attention when buying strawberry seedlings:

• It must be a centerous annual plants having a rosette with 3-5 leaves.
• The root system is well developed and not shorter than 5 cm.
• Top kidney (heart) strong and well-developed.
• The diameter of the horn is at least 1.5 cm.
• Seedlings should not be elongated, overgrown or, on the contrary, sickly.

Usually we plant strawberry seedlings having one horn, but if you see two-barked seedlings on sale, then take not thinking, as you are not lucky.

In order to save a family budget, you can not buy a large number of seedlings, but to acquire several bushes of the varieties you like and propagate them already.

For this, acquired seedlings land on a specially designated small plot (shovel) and surround their care and attention.

We remove the blooms on time, carefully lay down the appears of the mustache and help the small sockets to be rooted in the soil, making the wells for them and watering.

Thus, we can get from each uterine plant up to 40-50 seedlings.

We grow seedlings yourself

If you put the garden strawberries not for the first time and you already have a plantation of this berry, then for new landings you can use your planting material.

During the collection of berries, notice the strongest and yield bushes (not older than 2 years) with about the same in size of the berries and without any disease.

From them, we will subsequently be a mustache for booking a new site of garden strawberries. Mustache usually begin to grow in the middle of summer.

When our marked bushes are replicated, the process of forming a mustache and rooting of sockets will begin.

Here it is necessary, without postponing the case in a long box, select the most powerful first order sockets (in the extreme case of the second).

Of the sockets of the following orders grow, as a rule, weaker bushes. Keep in mind that young plants give a mustache somewhat earlier than fruitful.

Attention! Another nuance when selecting outlets for planting. It turns out not all young strawberry sockets are capable of fruit. Conditionally, they can be divided into "girls" and "boys."

So "Girls" usually give a great harvest, but the "boys" will leave you without it. Such bushes give a set of mustache, binding the whole bed, if they do not cut them on time.

How to distinguish where who? First, for the landing takes only the closest to the mother's chipset; Secondly - "Girls differ from the" boys "of a more powerful outlet of the leaves.

But it is much easier to separate the "boys" from "girls" with a spring landing. In the spring of all "male individuals" only two leafs, while "girls" - three.

If a large-scale garden strawberries are best breeding with the help of a mustache, then seedlings of fine-free repair strawberries can be perfectly growing out of seeds.

And although this is a rather time-consuming and troublesome process, but the result is worth the effort and time.

Usually strawberry seeds are sown in March. If you want to get berries already in the current year, then sowing is better to spend early - in early February.

This, of course, will create additional troubles: the creation of the desired temperature regime, the shocking, the construction of shelters with the early planting of seedlings.

Singing seeds in drawers with a height, about 8 cm, which fill the loose soil. Soil align, water and scatter on its surface seeds.

The seeds of strawberries are very small, so they can and not sprinkle the ground from above, but to break slightly with water from the spray and they are a little "drawn up" to the ground. This will be enough for them to sprout.

Or it is possible to be carefully poured over the sieve on top of sand, about 1 mm.

After sowing, we close the drawers with a film or glass, we put their warm dark place and wait for germs.

Seeds can germinate (depending on the variety) and after 10 days, and after 30, or even after 45 days. Therefore, it is necessary to gain patience and not to fall into despair when the seeds do not attend for a long time.

For planting seed strawberries, you can still use plastic boxes with covers.

When 2-3 real leaves appear, we proceed to the seed of plants on individual pots.

If you are not in a hurry to get berries as early as possible, then, perhaps, the most favorable period for sowing strawberry seed comes from the beginning of May to the end of June.

Putting the seeds within these deadlines, we will receive excellent seedlings in the first year without much trouble.

Describe all methods of breeding our favorite strawberries in more detail I plan in a separate article.

Dates of landing

Now let's decide on the timing of landing our seedlings for permanent residence.

In principle, planting a garden strawberry can almost all the country season, starting from May and ending in mid-September.

But to get a good harvest, it is still better to stick to the spring and autumn planting.

Many gardeners believe that there is a better spring landing of strawberries, as the berry will begin to fully be fruitful for the next year, and with autumn - only a year later.

Spring landing begins on April 20-30 (in the regions with a warm climate), and until June 15. Try to the Spring Planting not to be late for not moisture from the soil.

If we put later this period, then the likelihood of the fact that the plants will go to winter without a fairly developed above-ground part, the root system and will not have time to lay a flowering kidney.

And this means that they or will not survive the cold winter at all, or in the spring they will crack for a long time, coming to themselves.

On this, perhaps, finishing the article. In the future, we will talk about the rules for planting garden strawberries and care for her.

And now look a few videos with various ways growing strawberry seeds from Julia Minayeva. Maybe one of them will have to do you. I personally liked everything)))