Glue drywall: wall cladding without frame. The main advantages of the frameless method

December 9, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobby: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

You will do the right thing if you opt for drywall for interior wall decoration. At the same time, not all home craftsmen understand how to properly mount this material. After reading the article, you will learn how to properly decorate the walls with drywall with your own hands.

Finishing technology

Plasterboard wall cladding is conventionally divided into five stages:

Stage 1: preparation of materials and tools

Drywall for interior wall decoration of the house exists different types, therefore, it is necessary to correctly approach its choice. The main parameters by which it differs this material, consist in the following points:

• thickness- for walls it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm;

• moisture resistance - the choice depends on the type of premises. If you plan to finish the bathroom or kitchen, you should use moisture resistant drywall "KGLV". For "dry" rooms, ordinary drywall is suitable .

In addition to drywall, you will need some other materials:

• frame elements are PS and PN profiles, as well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws;
• primer;
• serpyanka mesh;
• putty - starting and finishing. The latter is only needed if you plan to paint the walls.

As for the tools, the set should be as follows:

• electric drill;
• scissors for metal;
• assembly knife;
• screwdriver;
• painting cord;
• building level;
• a set of spatulas;
• rule;
• a set of grinding nets with a jointer;
• roller with cuvette.

After preparing all the tools, you can start working.

Stage 2: marking the wall

Before finishing the walls with plasterboard, they must be marked. Otherwise, the surface of the walls may turn out to be uneven.

The markup is applied like this:

1. first of all, apply to the ceiling the line of the location of the guide profile along the wall that you will sheathe the gypsum board. The line must be at least 40 mm from the wall. If you plan to insulate the walls, then the distance must be increased by the thickness of the insulation.
   To obtain straight line on the ceiling, step back from opposite corners equal distance and mark the points. Then fix the paint cord between these points, pull it down slightly, and release. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling, and leave a trace in the form of a straight line;

1. the line obtained on the ceiling must be transferred to the floor so that it is located in the same vertical plane. To do this, you can use a plumb line, with which several points on the floor are indicated. Then these points are connected by a line.
   Instead of a plumb line, you can use building level, with the help of which verticals are drawn from the line on the ceiling on two opposite adjacent walls. Further, these verticals are connected by a line on the floor;

1. now you need to apply the markings with your own hands directly to the wall, which you will sheathe the gypsum board, indicating the location of the PS profiles. To do this, step back from the corner 10 cm and draw vertical lines in 60 cm increments;

1. on the resulting vertical lines, mark the location of the suspensions. They must be installed 50 cm apart.

According to this scheme, you need to apply markings on all the walls that you are going to finish with gypsum board.

Stage 3: assembling the frame

The process of assembling the frame is quite simple, in addition, the following step-by-step instructions will help you with this:

1. first of all, cut the guide profiles along the length of the wall;

1. then fix the profiles along the markings on the wall and floor using dowel nails;
2. then you need to fix the suspensions on the wall using the dowel-nails. If the walls of foam blocks are finished with drywall, you must use special fasteners designed for porous ones, as in the photo below;

1. then it is necessary to cut the PP profiles along the height of the walls, then insert them into the guides and fix them in the suspensions. Be aware that profiles can bend. Therefore, they must be leveled by applying the rule.

So that all PS profiles are located in the same plane, i.e. To make the wall even, first install the racks that are extreme from the corners, then pull the cords between them. Align the intermediate racks along them as beacons;

1. now you need to fix the jumpers between the posts. For this, the profiles must be trimmed, as shown in the photo above.
   To give the wall the greatest strength, place the lintels in a checkerboard pattern with a 50 cm pitch.

AT wooden houseBefore proceeding with the assembly of the frame, it is necessary to treat the walls with an antiseptic impregnation. This will protect them from decay and other biological negative effects.

According to this scheme, you need to sheathe all the walls in the room.

Stage 4: frame sheathing

The next step is the plasterboard wall cladding. To do this, you will probably have to cut out individual sheets first, taking into account the sizes and characteristics of the walls.

GCR is cut quite simply:

1. mark the cut line by marking several points;
2. apply a rule to the line;
3. cut the cardboard assembly knife along the line along the rule;

1. break the sheet and cut the cardboard along the fold line.

Plasterboard decoration of the walls is quite simple - the sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. However, some nuances must be taken into account:

• the edges of the plasterboard should fall on the center of the profile. There should be no “hanging” edges, otherwise the finish will crack over time in these areas;

• self-tapping screws should be located in increments of 25 cm;
• the caps of the self-tapping screws must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with the further finishing of the drywall.

Frame wooden walls can be sheathed with gypsum board without arranging an additional frame made of profiles. In this case, the sheets are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the supporting structure.

Taking these points into account, it is necessary to sheathe all the walls.

Stage 5: rough drywall finishing

The final stage is rough finish drywall, which is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, cut off the chamfers from the joints of the sheets five millimeters wide. If the edge of the sheet is rounded, then the chamfer, of course, does not need to be cut;

1. then it is necessary to stick a serpentine on all joints;
2. then treat the surface with a primer using a paint roller. Apply the primer with an even thin film. If necessary, hard to reach places primer with a paint brush.

After the surface of the walls has dried, reapply the primer;

1. now it is necessary to putty the joints of the sheets and caps of the screws with a starting putty. For these purposes, you can use a narrow spatula.

Try to apply the putty gently to get the smoothest possible surface;

1. after the putty has dried, treat it with a brush;

1. then the walls need to be covered with a starting layer of putty using a wide trowel. The filling technique is described in detail in other articles on our resource dedicated to this topic.

In the process of applying the starter layer, plaster corners must be glued to all outer corners, which will protect them from chips;

1. after the putty has dried, the surface must be sanded with a P120 mesh stretched over the jointer. Make circular movements with the tool. This will get rid of all significant irregularities;
2. sanded walls must be cleaned of dust, and then primed again;
3. if you plan to glue wallpaper on the walls or, for example, apply decorative plaster, then work on this can be stopped. If the walls are painted, it is still necessary to apply thin layer finishing putty.

The principle of filling in this case remains the same, with the only difference that the "finish" must be applied even more carefully;

1. the finishing layer must be sanded with a mesh with a fine abrasive. The work must be done very carefully so that the surface of the walls is perfectly smooth. Therefore, work must be done in bright light.
   To check the quality of the sanding, hold a bright lamp near the walls under acute angle... This will allow you to notice even the smallest flaws on the walls.

Sanding the walls is a very dusty job. Therefore, when starting this procedure, be sure to protect the respiratory organs with a bandage or a respirator, and wear safety glasses.

This completes the interior plasterboard finish.

A few words about frameless drywall installation

Besides frame technology installation of gypsum board, with which we got acquainted above, there is also a technology that does not require the installation of a frame. Its principle lies in the fact that sheets of plasterboard are simply glued to the walls using special glue or even a starting putty.

This technology can be used if the walls are relatively flat. As a result, the work is carried out much faster, moreover, the space of the room is practically not reduced.

At the same time, the frameless plasterboard wall decoration technology has some disadvantages:

• does not allow to insulate the walls from the inside, as well as hide communications between the wall and the gypsum board;
• requires wall surface preparation. Before making the frame, as we found out, there is no need to prepare the walls. Therefore, a frameless installation method is not always faster than a frame one.

Therefore, when choosing a technology, you should consider all the pros and cons.

The process of installing gypsum board using this technology is as follows:

1. work begins with the preparation of the walls. At this point, remove the old topcoat. If there are areas with peeling or crumbling plaster on the walls, they must also be removed;

1. then the surface of the walls should be cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner or brush, and then wiped with a damp cloth;
2. then the walls need to be primed. If the surface is smooth, eg concrete, an adhesive primer must be used. If the walls are plastered, priming is performed with a deep penetration primer;

1. while the primer on the walls dries out, you should apply the primer to the back of the gypsum board;
2. after the primer has dried, you can start gluing the sheets. To do this, glue is applied to their back side or starting putty lumps that are evenly distributed over the entire surface of the sheet.

1. after pasting the walls with plasterboard, a rough surface finish is performed according to the scheme described above.

Output

From the article you learned that the technology for decorating the walls of the gypsum board is quite simple, although it is not without some subtleties. For more information, I suggest watching the video in this article. If you do not understand any points or encountered any difficulties during the work, write your questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

December 9, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Glue mounting very simple and quick way align the walls. For gluing drywall, a special mounting gypsum glue , which is used specifically for these purposes. This glue is easy to find in any hardware store... The most common is the KNAUF glue, which is called assembly plaster glue Perlfix (Perlfix).

Consider the initial stage of installing drywall with glue.

Before you start leveling the walls, you need to clean the wall of old coatings. The less foreign matter on the wall, the better the grip and the tighter the drywall will hold.

After the preparatory work, we measure the wall and find out the nature of the curvature of the walls. If the curvature is of the order of 4-7 mm, then drywall can be simply missed the sheet notched trowel with a tooth 10x10 mm. If the curvature is up to 20 mm, then glue the drywall to the "cakes" of glue. If the curvature is more than 20 mm, then primed drywall strips 100-120 mm wide are glued to the wall, and then the drywall itself is glued to these strips. If the curvature reaches 40 mm, or even more, then it will be advisable to abandon and level the walls with plasterboard using a frame made of profiles.

Let us analyze in stages the gluing of drywall to the wall with an unevenness of up to 20 mm.

To begin with, we prime the entire wall with a penetration primer, and it will not be superfluous to prime plasterboard sheets on the back side.

Let the primer dry for a couple of hours and mix the glue according to the instructions on the package. Do not knead all over the wall at once, as the glue sets quickly, the pot life is only 30 minutes.

We lay the first sheet of drywall on the floor face down and apply the "cakes" of glue. wall drywall is necessary, and it is best not to skimp and moisture resistant. According to the technology from KNAUF, glue is applied along the perimeter of the sheet and in the middle. For better adhesion and additional rigidity, I recommend glue around the perimeter and, stepping back from the edges by 40 cm, apply another strip along the sheet. The height of the "cakes" should be greater than the unevenness of the wall.

After applying glue, lift the sheet and apply it to the wall. It is necessary to put lining under the sheet with a height of 10-20 mm, the same indentation must be left at the ceiling, this will allow the drywall to expand and contract freely, depending on temperature changes, and will also allow it to evaporate easily excess moisture from glue. Scraps from a drywall sheet are easily suitable as linings.

Align the sheet vertically. To do this, we apply a more authentic level to the plane of the sheet, and lightly tapping rubber mallet we bring the sheet to a strictly vertical position. It is also necessary to observe the plane relative to the wall.

We glue all subsequent sheets of drywall using the same method. Also, do not forget to make sure that they are in the same plane.

When leveling walls on an adjacent wall, do not forget, if necessary, to follow the corners of the room.

If there are any communication terminals on the wall, then the holes for them must be cut in the drywall before mounting on the wall.

And a few more words about gluing drywall to glue. Gluing drywall with glue reduces the time for leveling the wall several times, and it is good when time is running out and you need to quickly and efficiently level the walls. The problem with such walls is that you cannot hang anything heavy on them, unlike a plastered wall. So, if time is not running out, then it is better to slowly align the wall with the beacons, besides the walls and gluing drywall at the price of material per sq. meter costs almost the same.

Installation of drywall on glue (frameless method)

With the help of this article, I will try to answer the question of a blog visitor: tell us more about the frameless method of attaching drywall.

There are generally three ways frameless mount G.K. on the walls:

1. Method of sticker G.K. on flat wall (reinforced concrete, large blocks).

2. Method of sticker G.K. on walls with irregularities up to 20mm. (brick, small blocks).

3. Method of sticker G.K. on the walls with very uneven surface.

But I want to talk about the universal method of gluing drywall, which combines all three of the above methods. I did not choose the universal method of gluing drywall sheets by chance. At the time when I myself was doing the renovation of apartments and other premises, I often had to combine different ways drywall stickers are not only in one room, but sometimes on one wall, the beginning of which, for example, was even, and towards the end the wall was very uneven. So gradually a method of attaching drywall with glue, which I call universal, appeared.

First, we clean the wall of old coatings that may interfere with us (wallpaper, whitewash, swollen and cracked, etc.). Then we find the most protruding parts on the wall. Mark (circle) them with a pencil.

We prime the entire wall with a deep primer and let the primer absorb and dry well.

Now we need to cut drywall strips with a width of at least 100mm, prime them on one side, and let them dry.

Mix with construction mixer (drill with stirrer attachment) Perlfix drywall glue.

Next, we apply glue to the drywall strips on one side and glue them along the wall, one close to the floor, the other close to the ceiling, along the entire length of the wall. the bottom strip of drywall, then it should show "vertical".

An example of sticking stripes is shown in Figure 1. However, it shows the third of the methods listed at the beginning of the article. Our drywall strips will be interrupted by protruding parts of the wall (which we outlined with a pencil) and will continue after these protruding areas. This way we can bring the sheets as close to the wall as possible. than we will save space inside the room.

Figure 2 shows how in the right corner long wall because of the ledge, a strip of drywall 100 mm wide did not fit, and I had to apply Perlfix glue using a spatula with small "cakes" from the bottom up with a step of about 200-250 mm. (This is how drywall is glued in method 2,) When the drywall sheet was pressed, glue filled the corner. Also in Figure 2 you can see how on a short wall there is a depression only in the left corner, therefore we glue a strip of drywall 100 mm wide only in this corner. Further, after 600 mm (see Figure 2) the unevenness of the wall is about 15 -20mm. And here we apply glue as in method 2 - using a spatula with small "cakes" with a step of about 200-250mm. Then after another 600mm. (See fig. 2, short wall), we have so much small space between the drywall and the wall that we apply the glue with a notched trowel.

By the way, the glue is recommended to be applied to drywall sheets, having previously marked them and primed with a deep penetration primer in places where the drywall sheet will be glued to a strip 100mm wide. glue is applied with a notched trowel around the perimeter and along the middle of the sheet. In places where the drywall sheet will stick to the wall, but there are irregularities up to 20mm., the glue is applied with small cakes around the perimeter and along the middle of the sheet in increments of about 200-250mm. where the drywall sheet will be attached to the wall, but the gap between the drywall sheet and the wall is very small, approximately 2 - 7mm glue is applied with a notched trowel around the perimeter and along the middle of the sheet.

There is one more important rule: after applying the glue, the sheet is placed on pads 10-20 mm high from the floor. This is necessary to compensate for the elongation of the sheet when the humidity or temperature changes inside the room. And it is leveled and brought to a strictly vertical position by lightly tapping with a rubber mallet on the rule pressed against the sheet.

Another recommendation: after gluing and after the glue has hardened, drywall sheets must be additionally secured with dowel-nails. This is a very useful "reinsurance". This "reinsurance" requires little financial and labor costs, but the reliability and durability of fastening the sheets to the wall increases in times.

How to fix glued drywall sheets with dowels (6-40mm), in the way when the sheet is glued directly to the wall is shown in Figure 3.

How to properly fix glued drywall sheets with nails (6-60mm), in the way when the sheet is glued to drywall strips 100mm wide. shown in Figure 4.

I will write briefly how to do it. Drill a hole of the required depth through the drywall in the wall. Insert the dowel through the drywall and drive a nail into it. Continue to hit the dowel-nail with medium force until the cap is "sunk" into the drywall. You need to be careful and not overdo it, do not break the drywall.Dowel-nails are hammered along the perimeter of the drywall sheet and along its middle with a step of about 400mm.

Well, that's all. painting works on drywall I will try to write an article soon.

I wish you good luck with your work. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments. By the way, if anyone has additions to what I told in this article, please write them in the comments. Thank you in advance!

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Plasterboard wall decoration - home and family »home improvement

It is convenient to screw the self-tapping screws into the wall using an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of a Phillips screwdriver inserted into the chuck instead of the drill. Set the low speed of the drill, install a self-tapping screw on the screwdriver-attachment and attach the drywall sections to the wall. Before attaching to the wall, a sheet of drywall is cut along the right size... To do this, a line is drawn on the sheet with a pencil, then along this line, with a paper-cutting knife, one upper one is cut on the dry plaster sheet. After that, the sheet is turned over, broken off at the place of the cut and the second layer of cardboard is cut with a knife. One person can easily cope with this, without making any special physical efforts. The sheets are attached to the wall along the edges and in the middle. The distance between nails or screws should be 15-20 centimeters, and in the rows located in the middle of the sheet - 30 centimeters.

TO brick wall a frame made of bars or slats is pre-nailed. Moreover, in the places of the sheets, the width of the bars or slats should be at least 8 centimeters. Vertical bars or slats are nailed to a brick wall with nails 70-100 millimeters long, usually driven into the seams. If the mortar in the seam is very hard and it is impossible to drive in nails, holes 10 millimeters in diameter are made in the wall, into which wooden plugs are driven. If dowels consisting of a metal and plastic part are used for fastening (it replaces a wooden cork), then the hole in the wall for such a dowel must correspond to its diameter. After installing a frame made of bars or slats, sheets of drywall begin to be attached to it. If the edges of the sheets are ideally fitted, then they can be fastened close, and if the joints are uneven, then it is advisable to leave a gap of up to 5 millimeters between the sheets for further sealing of the seams. When the sheets are attached to the frame, between them and the wall remains air gap on the thickness of the frame, which increases both heat resistance and sound insulation at the same time. When sheathing even with sheets of drywall, fastening can be made directly to the ceiling. Concrete ceiling covered with drywall sheets on a wooden frame. To support the sheets during attachment to the ceiling, you can use special supports from the boards, but it is more convenient to mount the sheets together.

Plasterboard sheets can also be glued to a concrete or brick wall. For this, use a special glue. But you can stick on plaster paste or plaster paste. Such a composition is prepared from stucco with the addition of PVA glue. Adding glue is necessary to slow down the hardening of the gypsum. When gluing sheets of drywall to the surface of the wall, glue is spread in the redistribution of the sheet in the form of tubercles, the distance between which is 30-40 centimeters. And along the edges of the sheet, the bumps of glue should be located in a continuous row. It is advisable to make the tubercles about 10 centimeters in diameter. After that, a drywall sheet is installed on the wall, which is pressed against the wall by pressing and tapping.

Using a perfectly flat board 1.5–2 meters long, you need to check how evenly the sheets adhere to the wall. If there are irregularities, they are straightened by tapping with a hammer across the board on drywall. The corners of the room are faced without seams. When finishing corners on a sheet of drywall installed in place, it is marked with a ruler and a strip of cardboard is cut off the side of the sheet facing the wall. Cardboard outside gently bends around the corner so that it remains intact. When facing outer corners an electric planer with a triangular knife is cut with inside triangular groove plates. The slab bends along this groove at the corner to be faced. At the junction of the plates of the outer corners, strips of special mesh or gauze are glued and carefully putty. To avoid damage to the corners, it is advisable to cover them with plastic corners.

After installing the sheets, the joints between them are filled with gypsum mastic. The mastic will adhere better between the seams if the surface of the slats timber frame in places of seams during fastening of sheets, spread with plaster paste. When nailing sheets, part of the mastic is squeezed out into the seam between the sheets. Then this seam is finished with a regular putty. The joints can be filled and sealed with a putty made from chalk and gypsum with the addition of glue diluted in water. The seams must be plastered to the level of the surface of the drywall sheets. First, mastic is applied to the seams between sheets with thin edges, and then glued to the thin part adhesive solution a strip of mesh or gauze. After such a glued seam has dried, it is covered with a putty to the level of the surface of the drywall sheet.

Drywall is very good reason for wallpaper, since the surface is almost perfectly flat. In order to avoid corrosion of the heads of nails or screws, it is advisable to varnish them. Otherwise, they can release rust from the glue, which will show through the wallpaper. If the drywall sheets have defects in the form of tearing or bruising of the cardboard, then the damaged cardboard must be cut out with a razor or sharp knife, and putty on the surface of the sheet. After that, the drywall surface is covered in a similar way to a plastered surface. Since the coated with glue adhere very well to the surface of the drywall sheets, there is no need to additionally coat the drywall with glue.

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Plasterboard for glue, video training for drywall work

A video lesson will teach you how to revet concrete, brick, etc. using perlfix glue and drywall sheets. walls.

Before starting work, the walls must be cleaned of mortar and other defects. For better adhesion of the mortar to the wall, they need to be primed.

On the prepared walls, markings are applied, sheet width 120 cm. A line breaks through the floor from the wall by 3 cm, considering that the walls are level.

Video how to glue drywall on the wall

Lining of pieces of drywall is laid on the floor.

The solution is kneaded immediately before gluing the sheets. The setting time after mixing is about 30-40 minutes.

The mortar is applied with a trowel or a facing trowel, both in the form of blobs and longitudinal portions.

The step between the bloopers is 35 cm, both vertically and horizontally.

The sheet is installed along the line and slowly pressed against the wall. Aligning the floor line using the rule, align it under the level, alternately one of the sides.

If necessary, tap the drywall sheet to the wall with a rubber hammer, then check with long rule horizontally.

Fill the end of the sheet with a solution, only then apply the solution to the next sheet.

After drying, all seams are putty.

In some situations, the use of a metal or wooden frame for the walls is irrational, since this significantly reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. In this case, the walls are aligned with plasterboard on glue.

This technology allows fast enough and with minimal cost prepare the room for finishing, while the area loss will be minimal.

Frameless cladding technologies

Depending on the characteristics of the surfaces to be finished, the technology for mounting drywall on glue can be different.

Today, one of the following schemes is most often used:

1. Mounting on plasterboard filler. If the walls to be cladding are sufficiently flat, i.e. their irregularities do not exceed 4 mm, then a gypsum-based putty is used for gluing drywall (Fugenfüller is most often used).
   The putty is applied in longitudinal stripes along the perimeter of the gypsum board sheet, as well as in its center.
2. Mounting with drywall adhesive. If the base has irregularities up to 20 mm, then instead of the plaster putty for gluing the gypsum, Perflix type glue is used. The adhesive is applied to plasterboard small slides to facilitate leveling the surface.
3. Installation with an intermediate base. When using this technology, the plasterboard is glued to the walls in two steps: first, narrow gypsum strips are glued to Perflix, and then the main skin is mounted on them with the help of plaster putty.
   This technology allows you to level irregularities up to 50 mm.

If the unevenness of the base exceeds 50 mm, then in the best way sheathing in this case will be the use of a frame. Let the price of such a solution be slightly higher, but it allows you to level the base as efficiently as possible.

For frameless decoration of premises, they are most often used standard slabs GKL. If indoors high level humidity, then moisture-resistant plasterboard can be used to level the base. The use of gypsum fiber sheets for adhesive finishing is not recommended.

Related articles:

GKL installation by glue method

Preparing walls for cladding

Despite the simplicity of this technology, the installation of drywall on glue with your own hands must be carried out following a specific algorithm.

Below are instructions for preparing the surface for gluing gypsum plasterboard:

• At the first stage, it is necessary to revise the foundation. To do this, using a rule, a plumb line or a level, we hang all the planes and find out the dimensions of the irregularities. Depending on the measurement results, we choose one of the options for gluing the gypsum board.
• Using a plumb line and a marker, we apply markings to the walls of the room.
• We clean the surface of the walls from residues old finish, dismantle all the elements attached to it. If possible, we remove large irregularities by knocking them down with a chisel or perforator.

Note!
To ensure the adhesion of the adhesive to the wall surface, it is very important to properly clean it from oil stains and old paint.

• Before fixing the drywall to the wall with glue, we treat the surface with a primer. The choice of primer depends on the type of wall: if the material does not absorb moisture, then the best choice there will be "Betokontakt", if it absorbs, then we will prime it with the composition "Tiefengrund" or similar in properties.

After that, you can start cutting the drywall. We cut the sheets of gypsum board according to the dimensions we require, in them we make holes in advance for sockets, switches, etc. Cutting is carried out in such a way that there is 8-10 mm of free space between the floor and the casing for air to access the polymerizing adhesive.

After finishing the pasting of the walls, this gap will need to be covered with a sealant.

Advice!
Before installing the gypsum board on the wall, the sheets of material should lie for about two days in the room in which the finishing will be carried out. This way we minimize possible deformation of the skin.

Cladding installation

Having chosen which glue to glue drywall on, and having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to yourself installation work... Below we give a scheme for finishing, and you can study the process in more detail by watching the video on our website.

Installation of gypsum board sheets on walls without erecting a frame is performed as follows:

• On the floor in the room in which the finishing is carried out, we put several slats on which we place a sheet of plasterboard. These slats will facilitate all the manipulations with the finishing material.
• If we use Fugenfüller putty for gluing, then apply it in a thin layer using a notched float. Apply strips of putty around the perimeter of the sheet, as well as in the center.
• If Perflix drywall glue is used, then place small slides of glue every 20-30 cm, as shown in the photo. The slide should be about 100 mm in diameter and 20–25 mm in height.

• To ensure the required clearance in lower part walls are laid with scraps of material or wooden wedges.
• GKL sheet with applied adhesive composition lift and apply to the selected place. Align the sheet vertically, horizontally and plane, applying light blows with a rubber mallet or fist.

Advice!
To ensure the most even placement of the plates on the wall, it is better to start pasting from the corner of the room, moving along its perimeter.
When covering door frames and window openings we either glue the sheets close to the slopes, or cut them along a plumb line.

Gluing is one of the most simple ways veneer the surface with plasterboard. Wall decoration with plasterboard by gluing it to special glue is performed with irregularities up to 4 cm. If the height difference is more than 4 cm, then it is better to use it.

Installation of hl with glue has some advantages over the assembly of the frame. When correct installation the wall is more durable. Cons: drywall can only be glued on rough surfaces, well, communications with this method cannot be hidden without laying strobes.

Wall preparation

We will clean and prime the walls in advance with a special primer. Grease or dust stains can make the glue difficult to adhere. The room in which the work is carried out must be dry (the humidity of the walls is up to 8%, and the air is not more than 60%).

Also, at the initial stage of work, we cut out holes in the sheets for sockets and switches so that after installation they protrude 2 mm above the drywall (the thickness of the layer of the future putty).

Gluing drywall

If the differences on the wall are up to 2 cm, then we simply glue the gkl on the glue, if from 2 to 4 cm, then we will first need to glue the strips of drywall 12 cm wide to the wall. We glue the drywall strips at the joints of the plates and one or two strips in the center of the sheet. Before proceeding to the next stage, you must wait until everything is dry.

drywall installation scheme for unevenness up to 2 cm

Installation of sheets can be done in a staggered manner or without running apart seams. The adhesive is applied with a spatula in 15-20 cm increments on the wall, or on the drywall itself - there is no fundamental difference.

In places where it will be mounted attachments, such as cabinets or shelves, use extra glue.

We lean the hl against the wall, pat it, and with the help of a two-meter level, we make sure that the sheet is installed vertically.

drywall installation scheme with surface unevenness 2-4cm

Do not forget to leave 1cm gaps between drywall, floor and ceiling during finishing. They are essential for ventilation.

Seam sealing

The final stage of plasterboard wall decoration is the sealing of the joints. The technology is as follows:

1. apply a layer of putty to the joint and level it;
2. apply a reinforcing tape and press it with a spatula;
3. close the tape with a final layer of putty and level the seam.

Everything, now our wall is ready for fine finish... And finally, a video of the process itself.

Aligning the walls in an apartment or house is one of the main tasks when renovating. Them appearance is often far from perfect, and even such a familiar method as plastering is not able to create a perfectly flat surface.

Plasterboard wall decoration has become very popular. With its help, they not only mask surface flaws, but also hide communication systems, insulate the room and create additional sound insulation. In addition, this building material is used if you want to give your apartment an unusual, individual look, different from the standard look of a "square box". The procedure for leveling the walls with plasterboard is not particularly difficult and any person can do this task.

Wall cladding with plasterboard - material advantages

The use of drywall for wall cladding solves the following tasks:

• masking irregularities and creating a surface ideal for subsequent finishing;
• improving sound insulation;
• wall insulation;
• creating space for masking communications;
• design decoration of the walls of the apartment - the creation of niches, ledges, decoration of openings, etc.

Drywall fixing methods

There are two ways to fix drywall:

• frameless method - lining is carried out using glue or putty;
• frame method - a metal profile is used.

Frameless plasterboard wall cladding

The frameless method of fixing drywall saves living space and is easy to install. It is used when there are small irregularities on the wall that a regular putty can handle.

The main advantages of the frameless method:

• easy and quick installation;
• lower cost of plasterboard wall cladding in comparison with the frame method;
• saving space.

Materials and tools

Wall cladding by frameless method assumes the following building materials and tools:

• Gypsum plasterboard (GKL) - sheets made of gypsum plaster, lined with cardboard on both sides. Their lengths vary from 1200 to 3000 mm. Width and thickness standard sheets - 1200 and 12.5 mm, respectively.

• Gypsum mounting glue. One of the most popular is the Perlfix mixture, which is produced by Knauf. For deviations from the plane up to 4 mm, a putty is used, for example Fugenfüller.

• Marking tools: plumb line, level, pencil or marker.
• Drywall knife.
• Rubber mallet.
• Putty knife.
• Edging plane.

Surface preparation

Wall cladding with plasterboard without a frame requires certain preparatory work for surface preparation:

• cleaning the walls from the remnants of building materials, crumbling areas old plaster, oils and other substances that can worsen the adhesive contact;
• removal of dirt and dust from the surface;
• covering the walls with a reinforcing primer;
• surface marking.

For pasting with drywall, a surface made of concrete, brick, plaster is suitable, cement plaster etc. But it is not mounted on paint, whitewash and loose lime plaster.

When marking a wall, the edges and the middle of the sheets are marked with a vertical line. As a result, a line will be drawn on the surface every 600 mm. But this the best option - often marking is done only for the first sheet and "dance" from it.

Drywall preparation

The technology of plasterboard wall cladding involves pasting the surface of the walls with only solid sheets. That is why maximum height walls should not be more than 3 meters - this is the standard length for gypsum board. But in practice, many craftsmen ignore this rule and install sheets of smaller sizes. This is done in a sequential or checkerboard pattern, but it is better to use the latter option - with a continuous horizontal seam, a crack may appear.

The required length of drywall sheets is cut taking into account the gap between the ceiling and the floor - 5-10 mm. It is necessary for ventilation and, subsequently, is sealed with sealants and insulating material... To provide a gap, pads are prepared in advance from drywall or wood scraps.

The sheet is cut on a flat surface:

1. A layer of cardboard is cut with a knife.
2. The place of the incision lies on the edge of the table and the plaster core is cracked.
3. The cardboard is cut from the back of the sheet.
4. The resulting fracture is processed with an edge plane.

Holes for communication leads are also cut in advance using special cutters.

Wall cladding with glue-plasterboard - installation methods

First of all, the glue is prepared. The mixture is diluted with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the package and kneaded with a mixer until it becomes thick sour cream. The resulting composition dries quickly, so do not cook a large portion. For one sheet, usually half a bucket of adhesive solution is enough.

Depending on the surface irregularities, do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding is carried out in several ways:

Method 1 - sticking sheets directly to the wall:

• The level is used to calculate the unevenness of the prepared and marked section of the wall.
• Along the perimeter and middle of the sheet, glue is applied to the wall in piles ("bloopers"), with a uniform distance of 20 cm. At the same time, the revealed flaws of the wall are taken into account - more mixture is spent on the depression, and less on the bulge.

• The sheet is attached to the wall on the lining and aligned with the markings.

• Using a level and a rubber mallet, drywall is positioned vertically and horizontally. In order not to spoil the sheet, it is tapped through a piece of wood or a small piece of plywood.

This installation method is the easiest, but it is suitable for surfaces with a difference of no more than 30 mm.

Method 2 - sticker using beacons:

• Plasterboard strips are being prepared with a width of 8-10 cm for the perimeter of the wall and the center of the sheets and 16 cm for the joint of the structure - 8 cm for each layer.
• Beacons are installed on the glue. Each strip should be aligned vertically, in the same plane and in line with the direction of the wall.
• After the mixture has hardened, glue or putty is applied to the strip beacons with a uniform layer under the comb and a drywall sheet is installed.

In places where any equipment is located on the wall, an additional strip is provided.

Sometimes small pieces of drywall are used as a lighthouse, but in this case, it leaves large quantity glue and sheets at the seams are not sufficiently bonded.

This mounting method is suitable for uneven wall, with surface drops of more than 3 cm

Method 3 - combined:

When using this method, the beacons are installed only from the bottom and top of the wall, and the middle is filled with heaps of glue. With this installation method, the sheet is exposed according to the rule without special effortsbecause it has two pivots that are in the same plane.

According to the technology of gluing drywall, the glue is applied to the sheet, but in this case, its weight will increase significantly and it is much more difficult to manipulate it. In addition, it is very important that the composition adheres to the base as firmly as possible. It will stick to the sheet in any case. For the same reason, a thin layer of glue is applied to the surface of the wall along the perimeter and center of the drywall with a spatula, which will fill all the pores - the "bloopers" will hold on much better. Most often, this method is used with an unprimed surface.

Frame method of plasterboard wall cladding

The advantages of the wireframe method:

• perfect alignment of the walls;
• quick installation;
• masking communications;
• additional heat and sound insulation;
• creation of decorative elements.

Materials and tools

• drywall;
• sound and heat insulation material;
• wooden beam or two types metal profile - rack (CD-60) and guide (UD-27);
• suspensions;
• self-tapping screws:
  • TN 25 - for fastening drywall to the frame;
  • TN 35 - for mounting a guide rail and hangers with plasterboard structures;
  • TEX 9.5 ("bugs" or "fleas") - for collecting metal parts of the frame and various components;
  • dowels - for wall mounting.

• screwdriver, drill;
• scissors or a hacksaw for metal;
• marking tools - plumb line, level, pencil or marker.

Preparing the walls

• Surface Cleaning - When Using framework method no special plane preparation is required. But facing wooden walls gypsum plasterboard assumes their mandatory treatment with an antiseptic. This is necessary to prevent rotting processes and the appearance of mold. The cleaning of the working surface is carried out only in the case of too large irregularities that interfere with the fixing of the profile or with such wall defects as fungal infection or the presence of leaks.
• Markup:
  • taking into account communications, insulation and surface irregularities, the distance from the wall to the plane of the future structure is determined;
  • using a plumb line and level, the location of the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling is marked;
  • site for vertical racks with a step of 40-60 cm and suspensions for them - 2-4 pcs. to the height of the room.

Installation of the frame structure

• Installation of floor and ceiling guides (according to the prepared marking) with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-40 cm.
• Wall mounting of straight hangers for the rack profile.
• Installation of vertical uprights - connecting them with bearing profiles and mounting plates.

• Fastening between the posts of soundproofing material.

• Installation and isolation of communications.
• Sheathing the frame with sheets of drywall using self-tapping screws with a step of 30-40 cm, the tip of the screw is slightly pressed into the surface, but not more than 1 mm.

Frame cladding of walls with plasterboard, video:

After completing the installation of drywall using any of the proposed methods, the seams between the sheets are glued with masking tape and putty. The same procedure is carried out in the places where the sheets are fastened.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding, the price of which is quite affordable, will cost much less than hiring professional builders. Moreover, the installation of the structure is quite simple and does not take much time.

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