If you are faced with the task of leveling the walls with drywall and you want to solve it by installing drywall, then the option of using a wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat-insulating layer in the space between walls, which of course will increase the comfort of the room.
True, in this case, it is necessary to take into account some important factors associated with the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of work (a beginner can handle the installation of drywall on a wooden frame), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame surpasses most of the alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with medium or even low humidity. Wood is susceptible to rapid decay, danger of damage from insects, this material is fire hazardous: therefore, if you want your structure to last a long time,
it is necessary to subject this material to a special treatment, in the form of impregnation.
Installation of a partition on a wooden frame
In addition, the timber frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in installing such a frame can arise if you are dealing with an uneven wall. In this case, by adjusting the structure in one plane, you will have to either put wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the thickness of the bar in places where the wall plane bulges.
Finished wood cladding frame
But first things first.
The first step is to sag the wall. To do this, using the plumb line system, we determine the optimal location of the plane in which the drywall sheets will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall in such a way that the outside
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. For this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
the diameter and length of the dowel. The dowel is carefully driven into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically impossible to drill a hole in the timber for a screw in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.
Therefore, they act according to the opposite scenario: they apply a bar to the wall and first drill a hole in the bar for a screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the bar, it marks the place on the wall where
you can already safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for a given block are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the block is again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you are installing a massive timber, then you can immediately drill through holes through the timber with a drill, without a drill. However, in this case you must use screws with large heads.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.
Laying soundproofing material in the space of the lathing
In this case, simple rules should be followed: the crate should be evenly distributed along the wall,
excluding the presence of extensive voids. In places where an increased load on the wall surface is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the crate must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are needed. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached must be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal joints of drywall are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the lathing of any openings or holes - they are lined around the perimeter.
The main task - namely, ensuring the location of all external sides of the batten in one plane can be solved in two ways.
First, a cord is pulled between two vertical bars and the rest of the structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outer side slightly touches the cord.
The second way is to expose additional horizontal bars at the top and bottom, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane with the vertical bars.
Now the rest of the crate is applied.
Finished timber frame with mineral wool insulation
The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials that are used in this case: foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or a combination of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.
You can learn about the technology of mounting drywall on a metal frame.
It is necessary to ensure the most dense filling of the in-wall space with an insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.
Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame
Finally, you can proceed to the final stage of work - the installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. The screws are screwed in at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing in screws, you should monitor the degree of applied forces, avoiding thread breakdown - screw twisting.
Drywall is great for interior wall decoration. With its help, you can make absolutely even walls, while only a real professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Plasterboard is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.
There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. Thus, you can hide the communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.
Tools and materials:
- Slats made of soft wood. The optimal section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but smaller is possible.
- Drywall screws
- Screwdriver
- Wall plugs
- Drill
Council. Sound and heat insulating material can be laid under drywall sheets. For greater effect, you can use heat-insulating drywall.
Process:
- Use chalk to draw a line for attaching the battens around the perimeter of the wall and for vertical battens. Calculate the spacing between the vertical planks so that the edges of each drywall sheet are in the middle of the next plank. Use a saw to cut the slats to the required length.
- We attach the slats to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
- Place spacers between the attached uprights of those wooden slats. They must be adjusted to the size of the drywall sheets so that the joints between the sheets are in the middle of the spacer. However, nail the slats at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails into their ends.
- In places where the slats do not fit snugly against the wall, place wood or drywall supports between them and the wall.
- When the base mesh is ready, we begin to fix the drywall. As a reminder, its edges should go exactly in the middle of the struts and struts. It is best to use screws for fasteners - they will reduce the risk of splitting drywall. Mark the fasteners every 15 mm so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. In places where the drywall sheet is too large, cut it to size with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- We close up the joints between the drywall sheets. Use duct tape for the joint or regular tape with a little plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster and then with tape. Cover the tape with putty on top so that you get a very gentle inconspicuous rise along the seam. After sanding and painting it will be invisible.
- The wall is ready! Now it can be covered with plaster or a normal finish, for example, by gluing wallpaper.
This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood bars and make mounting drywall to wood framing easy and quick.
Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame
Cladding of walls and ceilings of interiors is a fast, inexpensive and fairly inexpensive modern method of decorating interiors of civil and public buildings.
There are several options for sheathing with gypsum plasterboard (GKL):
- Direct installation, it can be done using gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have an even prepared base
- A wooden or metal frame for drywall should be used if the work surface has distortions, strong waviness, bumps and other irregularities
As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements - rail, timber, board can serve. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.
Can drywall be mounted on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase rather expensive metal profiles. However, a wooden plasterboard frame is not recommended for use when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boilers, showers and bathrooms.
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Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall
How to make a wooden plasterboard frame? If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards 25-30 mm thick. The outer layers are formed from vertical planks and the inner layer from horizontal boards. If the installation of the partition is done carefully and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for drywall from boards, to which, without any preparation, using self-tapping screws, panels from gypsum boards can be attached.
The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, since this will lead to overspending of material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, bricks, logs, as well as old skewed walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for plasterboard.
Many are interested in whether it is possible to mount drywall on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) as applied to the installation of gypsum board is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on the bars practically do not differ from each other.
Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame
Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks if they are simply attached to walls or ceilings? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. In how to fix the timber to the drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a timber will help.
For drywall, the most widespread are panels with the following dimensions: 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. At the same time, the installation of panels on the frame structure made of wood of different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, reinforced, etc.) has the same scope of work.
Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools
To determine the required number of gypsum plasterboards, you should draw a sketch plan for the unfolding of the walls and ceiling with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, for heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one gypsum board has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and unforeseen costs), which will be the number of panels required.
- for fixing adjacent slabs - with dimensions 80 x 25 mm (first type)
- for intermediate vertical and horizontal fastenings - with dimensions 40 x 25 mm (second type)
It is necessary to plot the vertical and horizontal axes on the plan, along which the frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of the drywall to the wooden blocks. Its constructive scheme will be:
- two vertical beams of the first type with a length of 2500 mm at the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the axis of 1200 mm
- two vertical beams of the second type with a length of 2500 mm, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
- six horizontal beams of the second type, installed at the top and bottom of the slab
- three intermediate ones, which must be installed along axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the slab; the length of the extreme beams will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 \u003d 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 \u003d 360 mm
Additionally, beams of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal bar is replaced with a bar with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical bars of the first and second must also be increased type and the upper bar of the second type is installed.
After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased on the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased knotty in them.
Before use for at least one week, the entire set of wood planks must be cured in the room in which it will be used. After that, rejection should be carried out, and the remaining should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage by fungi and mold, fire retardants, which impart fire-retardant properties. Deep penetration impregnations are now commercially available to protect the wood and prevent warping when the humidity in the room fluctuates within a fairly wide range.
When manufacturing and installing the frame, you must follow the drawn plan.
Required tools
Tools and inventory that will be required to complete the work:
- hacksaw for wood
- construction knife
- building corner
- steel rail-rule length 1200-1500 mm
- bubble level
- water level (with ceiling lining)
- plumb line
- hammer
- electric screwdriver
- ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use homemade construction goat-scaffolds
- protective devices (hand gloves, goggles, respirators)
General Provisions
Assembling the frame and installing it from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment is required in the horizontal and vertical planes with the constant use of a plumb line, level, construction square and rail-rule.
If the length and width of the room allow, the enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. In this case, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.
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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other when using right-angled sections of a sheet of sheet metal of the required width (25 mm) or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with screws.
The installation of fragments of the frame on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called "plugs", when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point on the wall, into which it is installed a wooden chopik, into which, in turn, a nail is hammered through the frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of the chopik, you can use a plastic nail with a metal self-tapping screw.
After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form that should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use mounting foam or wooden wedges and linings together with glue for wood, for example, PVA. Otherwise, a wooden frame for drywall on a wall (or ceiling) will have increased instability and may deform when installing gypsum boards.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame
After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can start attaching the drywall to the wooden frame by directly mounting the gypsum board panels. The following instruction will help in how to fix the bars to drywall.
To mount a drywall sheet, it must be tightly pressed against the mounted frame structure made of wood, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type of timber with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.
The fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the gypsum board sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, on a sheet of drywall from the outside, it is better to draw lines with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.
After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, look for its verticality and absence of distortions using a plumb line, and on the ceiling using a level.
The sheet can then be fastened to the uprights. When tightening screws, it should be taken into account that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet should be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.
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Instructions on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the gypsum board on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal lathing is also arranged in the form of a frame, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. Enlarged frame elements for ease of installation are also better pre-mounted on the floor.
In order to mount a frame made of plasterboard timber on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use props and braces that can help you install drywall on the bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.
For leveling or redevelopment of living space, use partitions made of gypsum fiber board or drywall. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after the end of the work there is little dirt and dust. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.
In addition to the standard gypsum board, the following types of material are distinguished:
- moisture resistant;
- fire resistant;
Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, while fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).
Moisture resistant drywallGKL is great for decorating living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the room microclimate naturally.
For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from plaster of paris with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard sheath, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:
- GVL is heavier than GCR;
- costs more.
Characteristics of the timber frame
GKL fastening to a wooden frame is often used.
The wood frame is cheaper than metal, it is made from wooden planks and bars, usually coniferous wood is used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where there will be massive objects on the wall (mirror or cabinet).
Material requirements:
- The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
- Fire protection treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
- The wall thickness must not exceed 132 mm.
Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective agents against fire and pests, and are viewed for knots and irregularities.
Fixing the base
Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats should be done in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal level, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.
Construction tools:
- hammer;
- puncher;
- nails;
- building level;
- self-tapping screws;
- mounting dowels;
- metal corners.
If the structure needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.
Base attachment technology Stages of work:
- The partition is pre-marked on the ceiling using a level, then a wooden frame is attached;
- Fix the strapping bars starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, followed by the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws are suitable). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then the fastening is made with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
- After fixing the bars to the ceiling, markings are carried out on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to fasten the frame.
- After checking the correspondence of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical beams. The distance between them is kept at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will be on them.
- After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.
Mounting the gypsum board on the base
Plating begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.
Cladding When sheathed with material on only one side, then lay the insulation and stretch the electrical wiring before installing the top layer.
During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling the cables, if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.
If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of uprights and horizontal lintels.
Newbie tips:
- When installing the second side of the wall, shift the sheet one step so that the structure comes out strong;
- To avoid problems with fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum board fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.
Isolation
Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing difficult in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.
Insulation of the structure For this, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam are suitable. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.
Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.
Read the same: Arrangement of an apartment building.
Dealing with irregularities
If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify unevenness with a bar. For this:
- Lay a timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
- Lean the upright timber vertically, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.
It is important to evenly install the frame so that the whole structure comes out even.
If you have difficulties with plasterboard cladding, a video will help:
Benefits of using GCR
This material has several advantages over other raw materials:
- low cost and assembly costs;
- little weight;
- quick installation;
- the best sound and heat insulation;
- the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
- alignment of walls;
- installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
- after installation, little debris and dust remains.
If everything is done correctly, the final touch will be to decorate the wall. And drywall constructions will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.
In contact with
Various materials are used to work with drywall. The most common method of constructing profile metal frames, however, quite often you can find wooden structures.
Wood is a natural environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It should be said that the tree is subject to climatic effects, biological corrosion and fire hazard, therefore it requires additional processing.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical properties
The frame for drywall is made of high-quality coniferous wood.
They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.
Basic physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For W121 partitions with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for lathing is used;
- For W122 partitions with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while, depending on the height, different thickness of gypsum board is used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 × 14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
- The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
- Connection on nails, thorns and self-tapping screws is allowed, while thorns are the most preferable, since they create a rigid and durable connection;
- The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be between 50 and 60 mm;
- Wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, the wood must lie for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.
You should use high-quality sawn timber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with fire retardants and the passage of the relevant examinations by the authorized bodies.
Chemical treatment
Antiseptic treatment is a condition for a long service life of lumber.
In addition to fire-prevention treatment, a wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.
This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms... A tree can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and destroyed;
- Biological decay... Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Antiseptic treatment is required for conservation.
- Carpenter insects... Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
- Rodents... Also dangerous for wood. Antiseptic treatment scares these animals away.
Pest insects can spoil wood in a short time.
Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.
It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.
Sodium fluoride sinks well into wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode metal, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Strong enough antiseptic.
An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.
Sodium fluorosilicon is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.
It is unacceptable for residential premises to use oily antiseptics:
- creosote,
- coal,
- shale,
- anthracene oils.
These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.
Installation of a wooden frame for drywall
To trace the lines connecting the partition to the walls
Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also How to build a drywall partition: features.)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the gypsum board sheet.
It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer in a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.
Use a center weight with an axis indicator as a plumb line.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line from the bottom point perpendicular to the wall.
This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a right-angled triangle with an aspect ratio of 3: 4: 5, where the 3rd and 4th correspond to the legs, and 5 - the hypotenuse.
In this case, we lay one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we draw a circular arc in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.
Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
By connecting the intersection of these arcs to the original bottom point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line along this perpendicular on the floor - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the bottom and top points and get the third line. (See also the article Drywall niches in the wall: how to make.)
Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we should get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.
Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long one from the calculated point.
Frame mounting
Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.
As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal beams. Installation of the frame should be started with the frame.
To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, the bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor logs and walls.
If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.
The Knauf bracket can be used to fix the timber to the wall.
We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge on both sides of the doorway. If the opening is located against the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.
So, we fix all the bars, to drill holes in the walls and ceiling, we use an impact drill with a drill on concrete.
Doorway
The doorway is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.
Racks
Racks should be installed strictly vertically on the level.
To determine the location of the lintel (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and in place of its edge we place a lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.
Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed for heavy loads.
We must check each detail by level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the jumpers must be strictly horizontal.
You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.
All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.
The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.
Sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is a topic for a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.
It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality sawn timber, and dealing with low-quality timber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.
Tool
To work, you need a standard set of tools for wood.
So, you will most likely need a set like this:
If you don't have a hammer drill or screwdriver, you can rent one from a home improvement store. Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.
Thick mats can be used to avoid laying the cotton in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a mesh or other base that prevents material caking.
Conclusion
Assembling a wooden frame under the gypsum board is a simple work and does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of the assembly of the structure.