A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with plasterboard. Such a finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is attached to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multilevel ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling can be easily putty, you can build in lighting into it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Plasterboard is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create wonders with the interior in your home.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Plasterboard installation is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.

Today, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

1. For adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
2. On wooden slats-profiles;
3. On metal.

In very rare cases, drywall is attached to an adhesive material directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since there is a high probability that the gypsum board (gypsum plasterboard) will sag or completely disappear.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.

Most often, options are used with the use of a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Frame made of wooden slats

Such a frame allows you to hide all kinds of ceiling imperfections, while not greatly sacrificing the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality, perfectly dried in the chamber bars and strips are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not deform, and can withstand a decent load for many years.

• Before proceeding with the installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from her that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and with the help of a level we draw a flat horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then the end point will coincide with the start point.
• Further along this horizontal along the entire perimeter, using self-tapping screws, we fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!

• Next, we fix the base bars to the ceiling surface in such a step that will ensure the reliability of the fastening of the system being sewn. The recommended distance between the parallel base bars should not be more than 0.8 m.
• In the perpendicular direction, we attach supporting strips to them, which will be the basis on which it will subsequently be possible to hem drywall. In the event that you have a small ceiling area, a single-core frame will be enough, in which the wooden bars shot to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for fixing the gypsum board. Of course, the step of fixing the bars in such a frame will decrease and amount to about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

• We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with an attachment pitch of 0.8 m. In the case of two-layer cladding, we reduce the step, because double the weight of the binder. The attachment points of adjacent beams should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
  Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is carried out with a step of fastening the sheet to the frame 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing The fastening step for the first layer can be made 0.5 m when hemming in two layers. When fixing the second layer to be sewn, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the self-tapping screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is ideal for drywall thickness of 12.5mm.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, you need to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.

Fastening the beams to the ceiling

Bars of the base to the wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or on metal adjustable with a wire suspension. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the gypsum board and the ceiling surface.

We attach the brackets to the timber on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the gypsum board, there is the D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Plasterboard on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not that difficult if there are detailed instructions. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide at what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the gypsum board and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One drywall sheet weighs about 15 kg.

What the frame consists of

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack-mount profiles are attached to them, on which drywall is mounted. The cross-section of the profiles is U-shaped. And the rack profiles are similar to the letter "C".

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of hangers, you can correct and level the plane of even the curved ceiling itself and give the frame structure relative rigidity.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient straight hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also rather unreliable due to the manufactured defects.

Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cross-shaped connections, which are also called crabs. If you are going to do the installation of the ceiling in a small room, then this will not take much time and effort from you, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and gypsum board, you will need the following tools:

• a gun for driving dowels;
• a knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• felt-tip pen;
• level (2-3 meters);
• drill;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
• metal profiles;
• drywall panels.

First, you need to determine where the lowest corner is in your room, and then measure the distance from it by which you need to lower the frame. After that, with a level and a pencil, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws with a pitch of 20-30 cm, the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that, we proceed to the installation of rack-mount profiles. In the event that the width of your room is about 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. You need to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, with metal scissors, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then even improve the strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after filling and painting, all joints will crack.

In the event that you are going to install a chandelier or shade, then it is necessary to mount the mortgages, since the plasterboard sheets will not be able to hold the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the gypsum board. To do this, you will need: a stationery knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut off.

Then we fix the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Slightly sink the heads of the mounting screws into the drywall panel. The next stage is gluing the serpentine mesh to the joints (to avoid cracking), then a primer and putty.

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, use partitions made of gypsum fiber board or drywall. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after the end of the work there is little dirt and dust. GKL and GVL are distinguished by their efficiency, good heat and sound insulation.

Types of materials

In addition to the standard gypsum board, the following types of material are distinguished:

• moisture resistant;
• fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, while fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).

GKL is great for decorating living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the room microclimate naturally.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from plaster of paris with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard sheath, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

• GVL is heavier than GCR;
• costs more.

Characteristics of the timber frame

GKL fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

The wood frame is cheaper than metal, it is made from wooden planks and bars, usually coniferous wood is used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where there will be massive objects on the wall (mirror or cabinet).

Material requirements:

• The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
• Fire protection treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
• The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective agents against fire and pests, and are viewed for knots and irregularities.

Fixing the base

Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats should be done in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal level, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Construction tools:

• a hammer;
• puncher;
• nails;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• mounting dowels;
• metal corners.

If the structure needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base attachment technology

Stages of work:

• The partition is pre-marked on the ceiling using a level, then a wooden frame is attached;
• Fix the strapping bars starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, followed by the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws are suitable). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then the fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
• Having fastened the bars to the ceiling, they mark the floor (at least three marks) and continue to fasten the frame.
• After checking the correspondence of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical beams. The distance between them is kept at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will be on them.
• After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting the gypsum board on the base

Plating begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.

Cladding

When sheathed with material only on one side, then lay the insulation and stretch the electrical wiring before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling the cables, if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Newbie tips:

• When installing the second side of the wall, shift the sheet one step so that the structure comes out strong;
• To avoid problems with fasteners, make sure that the joints of the gypsum board fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing difficult in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.

Insulation of the structure

For this, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam are suitable. The hard material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Dealing with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify the unevenness with a bar. For this:

• Lay a timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
• Lean the upright timber vertically, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to evenly install the frame so that the whole structure comes out even.

If you have difficulties with plasterboard cladding, a video will help:

Benefits of using GCR

This material has several advantages over other raw materials:

• low cost and assembly costs;
• little weight;
• quick installation;
• the best sound and heat insulation;
• the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
• alignment of walls;
• installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
• after installation, little debris and dust remains.

If everything is done correctly, the final touch will be to decorate the wall. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

gipsohouse.ru

Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks: 7 secrets of good fastening

It is possible to sheathe the walls with plasterboard using a frameless connection or using a support frame Today, any design ideas can be realized using such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed from the inside and outside, the ceiling is trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of the room is also popular. There are several ways of plasterboard wall cladding: frameless connection and the use of a support frame. The second method is most often used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that the wall cladding with plasterboard does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Features of the timber frame:

1. First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden bars, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that moisture can be detrimental to a frame made of wood slats.
2. Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they should be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
3. The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with fire safety standards.
4. Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more commonly recommended.

Before sheathing the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house, saturate the walls with an antiseptic compound

Wood is an environmentally friendly material that is pleasant to work with.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the advantages of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall structures, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a worthy competitor from a wooden frame to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

• Material availability and low cost.
• High construction speed.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Easy to operate.

You can mount drywall on wooden slats - it's simple and affordable

Before starting work with wood, the slats will need to be left inside the installation room for several days to acclimatize.

Wall decoration in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work

In any construction business, you cannot do without special tools. To make the work run smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need to work with drywall is listed below.

Tools:

1. Drill or screwdriver;
2. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
3. Roulette;
4. Marker or chemical pencil.

Before you start decorating the walls, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools

Materials:

• Wooden slats and bars;
• Self-tapping screws, screws;
• Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with cleaning work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be covered with a special primer to avoid the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: making a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

1. The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
2. The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of the drywall sheets among themselves, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
3. It is better to fasten the rails directly to the wooden wall and to each other. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.

You can sheathe a wooden house from the inside using a frame made of wooden beams

The assembly of the frame itself should be started by attaching solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper bars between the vertical beams. Parts of the frame can be fastened together with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can proceed to attaching sheets of drywall to the resulting rails and beams.

Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

Before you start attaching the drywall sheets to the frame, you need to cut them. When cutting drywall, be careful and careful, use quality tools that will ensure your safety.

To cut drywall sheets you will need:

• Long rail or long level;
• Pencil or marker;
• Sharp knife;
• Roulette.

First of all, we measure the desired length and width of the drywall sheet. Next, cut through the first layer of paper with a knife and break the drywall base of the sheet along the cut line. Then we cut through the paper of the sheet from the other side, bending it at an angle of 90®, and sand the uneven ends with sandpaper or a file.

Before fastening, the drywall sheets must be cut

When calculating the size of the sheet, you need to take into account that you will place them with an offset.

Before installation, you may encounter a problem such as cutouts. They can be on the edge and in the middle of the sheet. If the cut is located on the edge, with a jigsaw or hacksaw, you need to cut two parallel lines to each other in the opposite direction from the edge and break the drywall sheet. To make a cut in the middle of a sheet, you need to saw through three lines and break.

How to align the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house: installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame

After preparing the drywall, you can proceed directly to attaching it to the crate. To do this, we close the sheet to the rails and fix them with self-tapping screws. One edge of the sheet should be as close to the wall as possible. The self-tapping heads must be below the sheet level.

Important points:

• Screws and self-tapping screws should be made of wood: they are better fixed in wood.
• The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
• Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

You can align the walls in a wooden house using a frame on which sheets of drywall will be attached

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or plasterboard partitions in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the caps of the screws should be processed.

For this we need:

• Putty knife;
• Special putty;
• Reinforced tape or mesh;
• Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring the putty.

To process walls or partitions in the house, you will need a putty, reinforced tape, an electric drill and a putty knife.

You need to start work with the preparation of a putty mixture. We advise you to use a special joint filler. Also find a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

To avoid cracks in the seams, work should be carried out after establishing a constant temperature and humidity in the room.

Apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the seams of the drywall, as if pressing it between them, then cut off a piece of tape of the required size and glue it to the processed seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the self-tapping screws on the drywall, you need to apply a stand of putty to the desired place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can, if you wish, prepare the wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.

How to sheathe walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technologies when plastering wooden walls with plasterboard, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in a log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (process photo)

homeli.ru

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

We will only talk about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate sequence for making cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the lathing bars and cut them to size. When cutting the racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the wall length.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting vertical short bars, so as not to make cutouts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste over the gypsum board) window and door openings inside. Nail drywall sheets onto the walls.

5. Nail the sheets around the window and door openings.

6. Close up the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly flat, therefore, when making plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The great difficulty is the alignment of the battens vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Installation of the frame with an uneven wall is performed as follows. First, the unevenness of the wall is revealed. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor against the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Marking is carried out for racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack bar vertically to the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor with the outside edge running along the outside line of the mark. Install the vertical beams on the support, aligning their outer surfaces, inserting, if necessary, spacers. Evenness is checked with a plumb line, level and rule. The horizontal bar is fixed at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two end posts (vertical bars) and pull the cord between them. Then they install intermediate posts and check the evenness of the installation along the cord.If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then all other bars are exposed.

To level the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the required thickness. You can apply some wood glue to the spacers before hammering into the blocks. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and there is a gap in any of its middle part (concave wall).

In case of a large deflection, the distance between the dowels should be reduced to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area permits, you can simplify the process of installing the frame. For this, the inner perimeter of the wall is carefully measured. Then, a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Bearing beams are inserted into the resulting frame with a step of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the frame to be assembled lies with its front side on a flat floor, it will already have a flat surface when assembled. Therefore, the stage of alignment of each bar according to the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix it with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for conventional (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using an electric drill. To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. After asking the partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm so that the drill at the exit makes marks on the wall. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars has to be performed without a partner, then they do this. Find the location point of one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which a dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark on the wall is obtained. After that, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (having previously unscrewed the screw a little) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall with dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of a drill with a victorious tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Plasterboard wall cladding can be started either from the corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the cladding to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL is attached along the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - not less than 10 mm from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard and not less than 15 mm from the edge of the unlined edge. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the drywall sheets for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the drywall sheets. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the drywall sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws should be putty and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets are placed when facing with an offset of adjacent end joints (staggered), and transverse beams are mounted at the joints.

Source: P. Smirnova - Plasterboard. Step by Step: An Encyclopedia of Modern Renovation

niola-td.ru

Wooden frame for drywall - how to assemble it yourself? + Video

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability to a supporting structure made of metal profiles.

Gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) is a rather complex composite material. It is made from gypsum, cardboard and a variety of additives. The latter give the drywall special qualities. The main ones are high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using gypsum board, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:

• standard;
• fire resistant;
• moisture resistant.

Types of drywall sheets

GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing of wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, Knauf) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for flooring. Due to the fact that GCR does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally friendly) and is characterized by an acidity indicator approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Today, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for various types of repair work. They make both simple structures and chic multi-level structures. Due to this, you can create the most modern, bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for installing plasterboard sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, the sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of gypsum board is allowed only on a flat wall. But using the frame technique, drywall fastening can be done on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless method for installing gypsum board

The frame technology of GKL installation is a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for laying electrical wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the skeleton of the structure and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of plasterboard sheets on the wall is easily built by hand. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will erect a skeleton for the gypsum board in a matter of hours. And then he will also quickly perform the fastening of the drywall to the self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal shaped products. But there is also an easier-to-follow technique. It makes it possible to erect skeletons for gypsum board from light and easy-to-install wooden products (slats, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.

The frame for fixing the gypsum board on the wall is recommended to be built from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of beams or slats. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. Such processing will protect the frame from:

• rodents (the smell of antiseptic scares off mice and other animals that can damage the structure well);
• mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
• carpenter insects;
• biological natural decay.

Antiseptic wood protection is allowed to be done by hand. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to stir the purchased mixture in well heated (but not boiling) water (35-40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process all the elements of the future frame for drywall with the resulting composition.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic wood protection

Fluoride antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is not toxic to humans, does not have any smell, and does not decompose during operation. It is easy and safe to work with such a composition. An almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium fluorosilicate. It is also allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, you should add a little soda (soda ash) to it.

Do not perform antiseptic processing of wood with compounds containing the following components:

• anthracene oils;
• coal;
• creosote;
• slate.

The effect of using them will be good. But for human health, they are harmful, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before equipping the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to let the wooden products lie in the room where you will be building the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to moisture and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The structure of interest to us is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools - a hacksaw or a saw, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a level. Self-tapping screws for drywall, stainless screws and nails, mounting dowels are used as fasteners.

An important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where the wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also advisable to install such a structure when decorating walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. The implementation of adhesive technology for installing gypsum boards with their own hands in such high rooms is recognized by professionals as inexpedient.

Installation of gypsum board on a frame structure

A wood frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

1. Analyze the condition of the wall surface. Fill up any unevenness with putty (plaster), clean the areas with peeling old coating.
2. Mark the wall. Perform this operation with strict observance of levels and angles (use measuring tools).
3. The horizontal beam is mounted first. It should be fixed to the floor base with anchors.
4. Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed timber. They should be approximately 1 cm from the edge of the sheathing.The distance between the individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
5. Check the level of the correct location of the rails.
6. Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, the made frame should be aligned. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal bar can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of wood-based products under it. After aligning the skeleton, firmly secure all its parts. That's the whole technology for assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to start installing the gypsum board on a self-made skeleton.

The installation of drywall sheets should be started from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GKL are fastened with self-tapping screws for wood. The step of mounting hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws no more than 3.5 cm long.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with serrated galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the gypsum board (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing the drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the gypsum board. On them, you will subsequently easily close up the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).

How to properly sheathe walls with plasterboard

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced only in rooms with low or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding for wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for individual construction of wooden and brick houses.

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame - disadvantages

Facing walls with plasterboard on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.

• The frame is made of wooden beams, subject to decay. Over time, such wood cladding begins to warp and break its integrity.
• For the frame, you need to look for only a dry and absolutely flat bar. And such a bar is not only difficult to find, but its cost is considerable.

Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. This is not to say that this is a great rarity.

Preliminary work

• Before lining the wall, lay all utilities along the lined wall, namely, lay electrical wiring under the drywall and / or plumbing in the drywall structure (if any).
• The wiring can be laid open, in a corrugation or in a box. Then, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to cut out places for electrical wiring and / and water pipes in the frame bars.

For work at height, you can use construction towers. They are easy to assemble and disassemble. They create a comfortable high-rise platform, are easily transported from place to place. For example, prefabricated ARIS towers up to five meters high are assembled by one person in 20-30 minutes. You can see ARIS towers tours.

Frame fabrication

• For the frame, a dry, even timber of 50 × 25 and 75 × 25 mm is used.
• A 75 × 25 mm bar should fall on the edge of the plasterboard sheet, and a 50 × 25 bar should support the sheet along the surface.
• The timber frame is attached directly to the wall of the room. For fastening, nails are used (if the wall is wooden or plasterboard) or a dowel - nails (if the wall is concrete) or plastic dowels and screws (if the wall is brick).

• If the mount is using standard plasterboard fasteners. Fasteners are made on dowels and screws, then the holes for fastening are drilled in advance. Distance between fasteners 500 mm.
• When fastening to the dowel-nails, the timber is drilled together with the wall and the nail is driven into the hole. The distance between them is also 500 mm.
• First, horizontal bars are attached, at the ceiling and at the floor. After securing them, we turn to the uprights. The first bar is attached to the corner.
• For convenience and correct calculation, the bars are first attached, which will fall on the edge of the drywall sheet. Their size is 75 × 25 mm. Since the width of the gypsum plasterboard is 1200mm, the spacing between the bars should be 1200-1205 mm (for single-layer cladding).

• With a two-layer cladding, the number of 75 × 50 bars doubles, and the second layer of drywall is attached to the frame with an offset of half the sheet, both vertically and horizontally.
• Of course, you don't have to bother buying a different bar and, for simplicity, buy a bar of the same size: 75 × 25 mm.
• After fixing these bars, between them, bars of 50 × 25 mm are attached. The step between them is 400 mm. With two-layer cladding, the spacing between the posts increases to 600 mm and their number decreases.

Timber frame processing

The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic compound. This treatment will increase the lifetime of the frame and relieve it from rotting.

Thermal insulation of a wooden frame

Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and, at the same time, sound insulation, mineral wool-based insulation or expanded polystyrene plates or basalt plates are used.

Plates are stacked between vertical bars.

Frame vapor barrier

After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. The film must cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

class \u003d "eliadunit"\u003e

After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing the drywall.

Fastening drywall sheets to a wooden frame

When fixing drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:

• There should be a distance of 10 mm from the sheet to the floor and ceiling.
• The distance between the screws for fastening the sheet should be 250 mm.

• Some experts believe that a 5 mm distance should be left between the sheets. It's too much. To putty the joints, it is better to buy a sheet of drywall with a thinned edge (CC) or to make a bevel on the edge of the sheet by hand.
• With a two-layer cladding, sheets of two layers are displaced, both vertically and horizontally. The distance between the wooden posts is 600 mm, which corresponds to half of the plasterboard sheet.

To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare sheet pads in advance.

Technology of fastening a sheet to a wooden frame

• Place a 10 mm backing on the floor next to the frame.
• Bring a sheet of drywall to the frame, lay the edge of the sheet on the gasket and lift the sheet.
• Fix the sheet with TB screws with a drill at the end. The distance between the screws is 250 mm.

Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet to size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut round holes in the sheets for mounting boxes for hidden sockets, or simply remove the wires from under the cladding to install overhead sockets.

That's all! The wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is finished.

Working with gypsum plasterboard, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders give preference to frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.

Plasterboard finishing of a wooden house

Some people prefer to use wooden floors due to the environmental friendliness of the material, despite the disadvantages. These are: biological corrosion, flexibility to climatic influences and flammability. Special treatment will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame for drywall, you should know the important points that ensure reliability.

Installed frame for plasterboard cladding

To erect a partition with their own hands, they use beams of coniferous trees with various section sizes, the choice of which depends on the sheathing method and the height of the partition being erected.

The main requirements, subject to which the structure will last longer:

• Indoor humidity level - less than or equal to 18%;
• For partitions, the height of which does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the lathing is 6x4 cm;
• For partitions over 3 m - lathing and riser with the same section, which is 6x5 cm.
• The choice of plasterboard depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional, the higher the structure, the thicker the gypsum board;
• Regardless of the chosen height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
• Treatment that reduces the material's flammability index is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
• Fasteners are carried out using nails, screws, thorns. Using the latter type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
• For sound insulation, mineral wool is used with a thickness of at least 5 cm and no more than 6 cm;
• The thickness of the new partition with the highest value is 132 mm and the lowest is 85 mm;
• The insulation index is calculated based on the selected partition thickness. It ranges between 41 - 51.

DIY plasterboard finishing

Before starting the installation, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time, she will undergo acclimatization.

Chemical treatment is no less important than fire treatment. It aims to effectively combat a variety of factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:

• Mold and mildew make the used lumber unusable, which is fraught with destruction in the future;
• Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
• Insects Many species of these representatives of the fauna render the material unusable;
• Rodents are no less dangerous. The special composition is able to scare them away.

Antiseptic

A variety of chemical compounds are antiseptics. Due to its effectiveness, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows the sodium to penetrate deep. The indisputable priority is the poor washout of the solution, it does not decompose, without a nasty aroma, is not toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.

Sodium fluorosilicate is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination converts the former into pure sodium fluoride.

Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential premises. It:

• Anthracene oils;
• Shale;
• Coal;
• Creosote.

They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.

Wood damaged by insects

Partition frame assembly

Editing begins with tracing - marking. It is applied to the floors used for the construction - walls, floor, ceiling. Initially, the gap is measured where the partition will be located. The width of the gypsum board used is additionally measured from the marked line.

For these purposes, it is advisable to use the ceiling-wall line. Having outlined the required point on the ceiling, it is transferred down, this is easy to do with your own hands using a plumb line. A nail is hammered at the selected point, to which the plumb line clings, at the opposite point where the plumb line points, a mark is made. The connection of the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.

The resulting point, after drawing a perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. Thus, the third line is obtained. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle comes out, which acts as the basis for the partition.

Tracing

Frame and features of its installation

Frame - a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally located beams and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. Bars are fixed along the lines outlined earlier. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or self-tapping screws as fasteners. Otherwise, these are screws and dowels. The frame is mounted with brackets or hangers.

Installation involves the use of integral beams. Especially when it comes to a doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), there must be solid bars on its sides. The holes are made with a percussion drill used for concrete surfaces.

Shaping the future door

After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed to the construction of an opening for the door. To do the work with your own hands soundly, follow the sequence of actions:

• The uprights are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the door to be installed. The opening is about 5 cm wider;
• The uprights are reinforced with bars to give additional rigidity;
• The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and set them vertically. They serve as a place for joining the gypsum board and give greater rigidity.

Finished frame

The final stage of work

Installation assumes the presence of a step between the posts of 60 cm, not less. If the size of the plasterboard is less than the height of the ceilings, horizontal lintels are installed, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.

It is easy to determine the place of the vertical lintel (above the door frame). It is enough to attach the installed gypsum board and put a mark. The edge of the sheet is in the middle of the lintel.

For people doing the installation with their own hands, the masters give advice: it is better to connect the bars with metal plates and corners, which are used when assembling rafter systems. They are reliable and can withstand heavy loads.

Observe the horizontal and verticality of the jumpers and racks. To determine them, the level is used. When installing the racks with your own hands, place them so that the maximum number of whole sheets of gypsum board can be attached to the wall. This saves material and time.

It is easy to assemble such a wooden structure with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology of plating the gypsum board of a wooden frame is the same as in the case of working with a metal structure. Doubters can watch the video and verify the truth of these words.

For the construction of a partition made of wood, high quality lumber is used.

Insulation is essential

If the partition performs not only a decorative function, the masters advise to isolate it. Installation of insulation is carried out after sheathing with gypsum sheets on one side of a wooden structure. Foams or mineral wool are more commonly used.

Doing this stage with your own hands is not difficult, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Rigid insulating materials are fixed to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.

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Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount a plasterboard sheet on a frame in general, and on a wooden one in particular? In what cases is the use of wooden lathing impractical? How and from what to correctly assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to cover the frame and putty plasterboard? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it's worth messing with drywall at all or it's better to use plaster the old fashioned way.

Here are the reasons for the GCR:

• High finishing speed due to the large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• Possibility to eliminate significant unevenness of the base with minimal costs. For example, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab of 8-10 centimeters (yes, it happens), it is very costly and unsafe to level the ceiling with plaster: falling of peeled plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the gypsum board on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density on it using any wallpaper glue; tile also adheres perfectly to cement tile glue or homemade cement-based mortar.

Curious: I used a dotted silicone sealant to apply the tiles to the drywall above the bathroom. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and to adjoin the apron to the bath. All seams maintain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; the tile is held more than securely.

How does drywall lose to plaster?

1. Mechanical strength. I will clarify: in this parameter, gypsum sheet material is second only to cement plaster. It is a dubious idea to use gypsum plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or workshop;
2. Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant drywall only tolerates high humidity. Immerse the gypsum core in water and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use gypsum plasterboard without protection with a waterproof finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. The occupied area of \u200b\u200bthe room. It is better to level walls with minor irregularities in a small room with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will displace the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room by 60 - 80 mm.

Anti-glue frame

When is it worth mounting drywall on a frame, and when is it better to glue it directly onto the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvature of the base exceed 40 - 50 millimeters, a frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: it will again save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fixing the gypsum board along the crate:

1. Installation of plasterboard partitions. Here comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its sheathing simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying communications behind the wall cladding - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, when it comes to a panel partition inside an apartment), grooves of significant width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has only one merit - cheapness... In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, as opposed to galvanized steel, hygroscopicand is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. From the practical point of view, this means that in a damp room, the wooden crate can warp and bend the wall lining, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally a tree susceptible to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Wood frame for drywall can be used only in dry rooms... For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before assembling it must be be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, a simple way to bring the wood closer to the galvanized profile in terms of performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, a bar is enough saturate with linseed oil: its constituent oils fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• It is better to apply drying oil heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with linseed oil with a brush, but to dip into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• The drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to allocate a separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the wood frame for drywall going from?

It was not in vain that I cited a 50x50 millimeter bar as an example of the price of a lathing: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and lathing (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a 50x100 bar; the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how the maximum resistance to lateral loading is achieved.

Finally, when installing the wall lathing, edged and unedged boards of any width can be used. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden chops.

Are there any requirements for wood quality?

When assembling the frame or when installing the battens on suspensions - yes.

The wood must not have defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique (significant deviation of the direction of wood grain from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Drop knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is due to the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the tree should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame installation rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the lines for attaching the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjoining walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls, strapping bars and end posts are attached. A damper tape is laid under them, eliminating the transmission of acoustic vibrations to the capital structures of the building and thereby contributing to sound insulation. Anchor bolts or ordinary dowel screws can be used to fasten the trim and uprights to the walls.

The next stage is the installation of the racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the stiffness of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common frame or lathing element for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracking along the seams is minimal.

The connections of the racks with the straps do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the sheathing of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of fastening the racks are permissible:

• Nails or screws hammered or wrapped at an angle to the rack;
• An insert from a trim bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated plates;
• Furniture corners;
• Inset of half-wood racks with glue landing. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with linseed oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive properties of the glue.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized joinery adhesives and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying of the glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame of a partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with a frame;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the frame with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave, after installation, gaps that prevent the door from rubbing over the jambs;
3. A rack adjacent to the box is mounted from one of the edges of the doorway;
4. A strip of mounting foam is applied to the outer surface of the box, after which it is attracted by self-tapping screws to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected such that they go deeper into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second post is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected with a jumper;
7. All connections of the racks with straps are reinforced with galvanized strips on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in the same way - with the amendment that its frame rests on a horizontal lintel between the posts.

Lathing on suspensions

How to assemble a wooden lathing for wall cladding with significant irregularities with drywall with your own hands?

1. In this case, the assembly of the frame also begins with attaching the lower and upper straps to the floor and ceiling. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of fastening the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
2. Then the extreme posts are attached to the adjoining walls through the damper fly;
3. On the main wall, the positions of the intermediate posts are marked strictly vertically, along a plumb line (recall, with a step of 40 or 60 cm from the center to the center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a pitch of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with self-tapping screws for wood 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent towards the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvature of the wall, the lathing can be attached to it without suspensions, using gaskets made of scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a bar, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be cut into narrow planks or blocks with a conventional hand-held circular saw with a guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The lathing is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails in pre-drilled holes with wooden chops. There is no bottom harness as such; instead of it, short bars are attracted to the gap between the racks of the lathing to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple one-level flow is mounted in the same way as the lathing on straight hangers - adjusted for the location in the horizontal plane. To create a frame of curved elements of a multilevel flow, thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used; when sheathing the gypsum board is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

Sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, 12.5 mm thick wall drywall is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed with 9.5 mm thick plasterboard. In dry rooms, ordinary gypsum board (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be sequentially impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

Self-tapping screws for wood with a length of 32 mm are used to fasten the sheet. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used for mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; average consumption of fasteners - 100 screws per sheet size 2500x1200.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (12 mm or more) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to the common frame element.

Where the wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers... GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of gypsum board is mounted with dressing of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, self-tapping screws for wood 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut the gypsum board to the desired size?

• Curved parts are cut with a jigsaw with a wood saw. GCR is cut by it very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It is deposited on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for bearings of cooling systems of computers and laptops, therefore, during the repair, they must be kept off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along straight lines, the plasterboard is cut with a sharp knife along a ruler by a quarter of the thickness, after which it is broken at the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the cut-to-size sheets are embroidered: a chamfer is removed from the sharp edges at an angle of 45 degrees by half the sheet thickness.

Reinforcement and puttying

A wall or partition sheathed with plasterboard is not yet ready for finishing: the caps of the screws and the seams between the sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used for reinforcing seams serpyanka- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: the gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

Outside corners are enhanced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner glued to the silicone sealant after filling and painting to protect the corners.

The photo shows the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What kind of filler should be used to level the surface?

The most widespread in Russia are gypsum putties produced by the German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives much longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, it can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to properly prepare the putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into a wide bowl (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, spreading as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a drill mixer.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• The hats are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the groove with putty, the second (“on the sdir”) removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with a cruciform movement of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracking. With the second pass, the seam, together with the serpentine reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of a spatula with a width of 30 - 35 cm;

• It is better to use special corner trowels to level the outer and inner corners.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the fasteners, the gypsum board is often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick finally masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding... GKL grind with mesh No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to sand in bright oblique lighting, which will accentuate the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive vibration sander for sanding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be carried out after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its need is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the gypsum board is dedusted (I clean it from dust with a regular broom) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will adhere the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the drywall surface and the finishing coat - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will shine through any number of layers of paint due to the moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, the video in this article will offer you additional information. Feel free to share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

September 28, 2016

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