We will make this wooden handle for the bath door from a piece of board 26cm long, 10cm wide and 5cm thick. It was 26cm long and 10cm wide that I drew the handle for the door to the bathhouse, which I drew on a sheet of paper in a cage. I wanted to draw some unusual, rounded pen. For this I took a round plate and a round cup of the sizes I needed. That's what I did.
Now I transferred the drawing to the board and cut it out along the contour with a jigsaw. I used a file for metal and a mode that is used when cutting metal. In this case, an even and clean cut is obtained. The sawed-out handle for the door to the bathhouse can be rounded off by removing the chamfers, you can apply a carved pattern to the surface of the handle, you can apply a pattern by burning out as in the recent past, remember there were such devices before, the contours were outlined with a red-hot wire nozzle. A groove remained, these grooves formed the pattern. It is best to fasten the wooden handle with screws. And further. it is best to use hardwood for making a handle for a door to a bathhouse, there will be no resin on the hands. From deciduous - linden has very soft, easily processed wood. I would recommend birch. The handle will be really strong. Remember at least the butts to hand firearms - everything is like one of a birch! And, I think, it is no coincidence!
Well, now, as always, according to good tradition, illustrations for the article:
View of the wooden door to the bath. Homemade pen in place.
Here is such a necessary, original, and essentially free wooden handle for the door to the bathhouse.
For a long time I searched the internet for drawings, diagrams or drawings of homemade "fountain pens" and honestly did not find anything sensible, but all as one write that this dofig on the network ... I want to say, there is a photo of devices, but there are no clear diagrams with dimensions. Of course, I waved a little before everything worked out and now I'm posting pictures of my smoothbore
in general, one handle is made (the one on top) for Flaubert's crown, which can be freely purchased in any pneumatics department.
the barrel is made of bronze (it will fit a weak Flaubert - it will not tear), the rest of the details are steel. of course you can carve everything out of bronze except the striker.
but the second one (the one below) for the standard 0.22LR "small" (5.6 mm) cupboard - this device is more dangerous.
all parts except the barrel are machined from steel, the barrel itself is made of stainless steel.
well, someone will say that it’s like bullshit, that it doesn’t shoot or it will tear it apart in your hands ...
i say right away that I tested and fired 6 rounds quite successfully. and as for the recoil, it is there. and it was once again a good trigger bolt on the finger gave during the recoil, but these are trifles in comparison with my joy
here are the pictures of the tests.
decided to compare my ammunition: a copy of Makarov, Safari-3 ″ and the pen itself.
took 2-2.5mm tin and shot a little ... (on the right photo is the rear side of the piece of iron)
as seen from the photos:
you can shoot the pigeons with a pneumatic gun;
Flaubert's Safari is a little better, it is good to shoot rats, or to scare away some gopnik;
the fountain pen showed its best side.
when firing from the handle, a block of wood was placed under the sheet of iron. the bullet pierced the steel and went 2 cm into the tree.
i had to get it out with pliers, making an effort ...
now for those who are going to experiment with such devices, I warn you that this is a criminal offense, both wearing and making (up to 5 years) ... so think before you do.
well, here's the long-awaited drawing of my pen. who has tips for improvement, unsubscribe I will be only glad.
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Cutting a spoon out of a stick
It turns out that carving a spoon isn't that difficult. At least according to the description. 🙂
There are an incredible number of sizes, shapes and styles of spoons. The miniature wooden spoons are reminiscent of old salt spoons.
Round wooden handles (24)
Of course, the size of the spoon is directly related to the size of the piece of wood. You may want to make a tiny spoon for the mustard or spices, or a large ladle for your camp pot. The spoon described here is of the most common small size. You could say it's a yogurt spoon.
Materials you need:
- straight fiber wood billet;
- sharp knife;
- sandpaper;
- polyurethane or other transparent varnish of your choice;
- pen or marker;
- cutter.
Take a piece of wood that is free of knots, slightly longer than the estimated length of the spoon.
The birch branch has the diameter of a 25-cent coin (or 2-ruble).
Cut one side of the branch all the way down using long, strong pulls. This side will be the back of the spoon. Some people find it more convenient to use the movements "on themselves".
After slightly deepening the trim, make it flat. Outline the basic shape of the spoon for the top of the handle, leaving the end of the scoop branch thick.
Form the handle.
When making a groove, always cut towards the center of the branch. If you cut away from the center, chances are that you will cut too much, more than you wanted.
Continue to shape the handle gradually.
Now shape the scoop by cutting along the marked lines.
Sand the product with sandpaper.
At this point, you have a spoon with no notch.
Draw the perimeter of the notch for the future spoon.
Use the sharp tip of a small blade to carefully make a depression within the line you have drawn. You can cut either "by yourself" or "by yourself". I think you'll have to use both techniques. The main thing is that it is easy for you to control the movements and stay within the circular line.
Be very careful not to accidentally slide the blade or step over the markings.
After making several Y-shaped cuts, deepen the scoop as much as possible. Naturally, the scoop should not get too thin walls.
Carve out the sander by trimming the tip of the branch to fit into the groove in the branch.
Place a small piece of sandpaper around the cut branch and sand the inside of the scoop.
You can also sand the scoop with a piece of sandpaper while holding it in your hand.
Of course, if you have a router bit, you can speed up the grinding process somewhat. But, of course, hand sanding is more satisfying.
The door handle was invented a long time ago. Its occurrence is associated with the installation of a doorway in the room. Such elements were simply superimposed on the existing canvas. Gradually they fell out of use, they were replaced by more modern versions, representing samples of mortise structures.
As a result of changing the latch mechanism, the external indicators of the door began to look more advantageous. In addition, the convenience of such a device should be highlighted. How to make a doorknob? To answer this question, you can study the material below.
Taking into account the manufacturing process of this component, it is worth highlighting the fact that handles for entrance doors are a more complex basis compared to interior options. They are more impressive in size and require locksmith skills.
The whole difficulty of such work lies in the fact that if incorrectly installed, within the framework of the slightest inaccuracies, the structure can skew and jam. For this reason, installation work should only be entrusted to specialists.
Modern manufacturers produce pens of any configurations, colors and materials. The device for closing interior doors can have a latch, a lock with a simple mechanism or a locking part. Almost all samples have standard fit sizes. Mounting such options is not particularly difficult.
Handle assembly: features
How to make a pen? Many consumers want an element delivered once to serve for a long time and does not bring inconvenience and breakdowns. If, nevertheless, such a nuisance happened, the structure should be disassembled and carefully examined. There will be a housing, a turning device, a retaining ring, a torsion spring, a key washer. All broken parts must be replaced.
Replace undamaged components and tighten thoroughly with a screwdriver. Next, the finished handle is installed in the door body.
Preparatory activities
On the eve of installation work, you should take care of the availability of certain devices. Then the work will take place in an organized, systematic and efficient manner. Putting this element in its place is not difficult at all, it is important to familiarize yourself with the basic installation rule.
In order for the event to go quickly, it is important to prepare the following tools:
- drill;
- chisel;
- feather drill 22 mm;
- crown for wood 50 mm.
It will be difficult to do without this set of devices.
Installing the door handle
Once a suitable handle has been found, it can be replaced. To do this, first measure the distance from the bottom point of the door to the border equal to 90-100 cm. These indicators should vary based on the convenience of the owner. The main indicators will be the anthropometric indicators of residents, their growth.
The marking is done with a square. You also need to sharpen the pencil well. He draws a clear line, and along it, applying a square, a distance of 60 mm is measured. The point is fixed with an awl. You can then make marks on the opposite side of the door. Similar measurements are taken from the back plane of the door.
Typically, the set includes overhead templates. Their absence gives rise to their own production. On the end part there is a middle and a hole is made for the lock tongue.
This opening must be 5 cm, and the perpendicularity of the base must be clearly maintained. The latch is applied to the door, the tongue should show above the end piece. Mark the place of drilling the hole for the handle and make a 6-7 cm recess. It will connect with the recess for the lock tongue.
This part of the structure is pushed into the opening intended for it, and a point is fixed for the face plate of the latching device. This place is milled with a 2 mm deep chisel. The same recess is constructed at the place of fastening of the door frame.
The door handle, according to the instructions, is disassembled. First, a latch is attached to the door. Then the base of the handle is put and fixed to the door array with screws. To assemble this door element, you need to follow the reverse order. When put in place, it must have a solid base and rotate without difficulty. The latch must freely go in and out of the grooves.
The presence of even minor problems provides a basis for examining the installed structure: the evenness of the definition of the locking elements, the degree of tightening of the fasteners.
Door handles for interior doors
The main materials used for the manufacture of such elements will be aluminum, brass, stainless steel, silumin. Brass is the most common choice. Any door handle is coated, nickel and chrome with a matte finish can be distinguished.
Not only metal, but also natural wood species, glass treated with chemical components are suitable as decoration. Handles made of precious metals look especially luxurious and pompous. Of course, their cost will be high. Such samples are made to order.
There are situations in which a handle is made on the door installed between the rooms, designed for the front door. This choice is not accidental: the elements of such a plan have a longer warranty period. When installing the handle on the door, it is important to focus on ease of use and the presence of a returnable type of spring. It contributes to the fact that the device automatically returns it to its original place.
Making wooden handles
On the main part of modern doors, you can see metal fittings. Wooden handles are a thing of the distant past. However, such an element of the door leaf can be made on your own.
To do this, you need to stock up on a pencil, which is used for marking on a piece of wood. Typically, these elements have an arcuate, slightly rounded configuration, at the ends they have flat plates. They are intended for a fastening base attached to the canvas. Decor elements can be located on them. To do this, you can successfully apply a special putty for wood, consisting of sawdust and PVA glue. Its cost is low.
To begin with, a piece of wood is being prepared, on which the silhouette of the future pen is applied with a pencil.
The product is cut along the contour. After that, the base is sanded with an emery cloth, then polished. Often, to give the object a beautiful shade, it is treated with varnish, the color of which matches the tone of the door. The dry handle is reinforced on the door with small screws.
Bath door handle
The bathhouse seems to be an unusual and original room, which is decorated in a peculiar way. Traditionally, this type of building has a wooden base. The same goes for the door handles. After all, products of this nature are completely safe from the point of view of stability and consistency of the material.
Wood is unable to heat up strongly at high temperatures, and it is not possible to burn yourself against it. Hardwood materials are best suited for this room. They do not emit tar, therefore, hands will not stick. So, linden as a base is very pliable, plastic, easy to process. Such a handle will be very pleasant to the touch, warm.
Considering wood handles, it is important to note the ease of their manufacture, external beauty and originality. They can last indefinitely and are even better than the individual options available on the market.
To make such samples, you need a lathe, a block of wood and special glue. It is best to choose birch as natural species.
On the eve of carpentry work, you should consider the appearance of the presented product. The edges of such handles must be flat and smooth and have a width of 20 mm. They fit into the handle slots.
Making a door handle on a lathe is a snap. To do this, the workpiece is carefully ground, unnecessary elements are removed from it. Once the base is completely ready, you need to sand the edges with an emery cloth. Next, holders are made at the rate of 2 pieces per handle. Once they have been processed, they are cut out of the wood and separated. Through holes are made in them, intended for fasteners. The handle is glued into the holders.
The finished product can be coated with a special compound or varnish, or you can leave it that way. Also on the surface it is quite possible to apply a carved pattern, burning with a special device.
All products of such a plan loosen over time, open and close with difficulty. Modern handles are held by screws. It is sometimes enough to tighten them up for the structure to acquire the same properties. For this, a screwdriver is used.
First, the latch is removed. For this, a narrow screwdriver is taken. This part fits with her. The screws must be tightened very carefully to avoid damage to the door handle. The door opens slightly and is clamped on both sides with screws. Next, the fittings are well held, and the fixing screws are screwed in tightly. The handle with the body is inserted into place.
February 20thThe site has Orphus installed. If you find an error, then select it and click CTRL + ENTER
Foreword.
There is a huge variety of pens that can be bought without any problems at any stationery store. Sometimes, you want to have such a thing that no one has, and never will, or there is, but a limited circle of people. The same is the case with the handles ... yes !!! with the most ordinary writing pens, with which students write their useless notes, chemists write different reaction formulas, accountants fill out all sorts of different forms, certificates, etc. In this article "How to make a handle ..." (DAC) I will try to popularly show how you can make an original wooden handle.
Project development (office work).
Before doing anything, you need to develop a plan. Now the plan will be called a selection of materials, the development of a 3D model of the pen, subsequently the creation of the necessary drawings, the development of manufacturing technology for one or another part.
Selection of materials.
Step to be approached with all responsibility, because the durability of the handles and their appearance will depend on the choice of material. The wood from which the handles will be made should be as hard and dense as possible, as a result it will be polished well. My choice fell on ebony (ebony), beech, maple as for wood; made of non-wooden materials - an aluminum tube, a brass rod, and the ball rod itself with paste. Actually, that's the whole list of materials.
From left to right: rods with paste, aluminum tubes, brass rod (like this, because they are in varnish), maple, beech, ebony.
Development of appearance.
Having the necessary material, you can start designing. First, the appearance of the handles. I will make a reservation right away that the pens will not have a cap, as well as clips (so that they hang on the pocket). Actually, here are four pen variations (drawn in Photoshop CS). By the way, none of them was realized in life, they did it differently.
Actually, it is clear that the very tip of the pen will be made of ebony, then beech and, finally, maple. The caps (screw-on, not the ones that cover the stem) will be made of brass and then polished.
Modeling.
Once the look is fully defined, let's move on to 3D modeling the handle. Why is this done? The fact is that when you look at what should turn out, it is easier to do and imagine, moreover, using the model, all dimensions of the handle (diameters, lengths, depths) are determined, and from this model you can get the necessary drawings that They also help a lot in manufacturing (of course, the pen is a very simple object, the model could not have been drawn to it, I just decided to show the approach).
You can paint a lot about how to draw a model, but this is another topic in general, therefore it will not be touched upon. Let me just say that I simulated in Solid Works 2008, and in it I created something similar to drawings.
Here are the 3D models (top-right, top-down) front cap, back cap, solid wood, ball rod, aluminum tube.
The same model, but assembled and with a superimposed wood texture.
The modeling is now complete, now let's move on to materializing our
project. It looks good on a piece of paper, but in your hand it will be even better. So,
making ...
Manufacturing.
So, let's get down to the most interesting thing - making what we have drawn. As I wrote earlier, during the manufacturing process, both the appearance and the size of the handles can change ...
Making a central rod.
One of the most important parts, as it encloses the front and rear caps, is also the hardest part in the handle. The billet for the rod will be an aluminum tube with an outer diameter of 6 millimeters and an inner diameter of 4 millimeters.
The rod will subsequently be "pasted over" with wood. For better adhesion of the "tube - glue - wood" ligament, it is necessary to roughen the surface of the tubes, that is, to make it rough (with a sandpaper, a file, a file, it does not matter). Next, wrap with a thread, preferably cotton (cotton thread will absorb adhesives better).
Tubes wrapped in thread. At this point, the tubes are ready.
Manufacturing of a wooden shell.
As planned earlier, the decorative shell will consist of three colors of wood - black (ebony), reddish brown - beech, cream - maple (if the colors are not named so, do not be alarmed, perhaps I am color blind). The difference from the one drawn in Photoshop CS will be that most of it will be ebony, then beech, and least of all maple.
We have beech and ebony in the form of plates, therefore, you have to glue two slats to increase the thickness. But the maple is in the form of an array and does not need a switch.
Ebony, beech, maple slats prepared for gluing (from top to bottom). We dilute epoxy resin (Ed-20). You can use polyester resin, but it loses in strength, moreover, styrene is released during polymerization, and it is harmful (for epoxy resin - chlorine). It is highly advisable to use rubber gloves when handling resin.
Spread with resin and squeeze with clamps.
After the resin has risen (it does not dry out, but polymerizes, which is why experienced people say the resin has risen), you can proceed to dismemberment. To do this, we will use a miter box (roughly speaking, a template).
After simple movements back and forth we get blanks for the "little body" of the handle. The black one and the largest on the table is the miter box, there are grooves for a hacksaw.
Now the most difficult thing remains - to drill a hole for the tube. The difficulty lies in the fact that the hole must be coaxial in each prepared set for handles. If the holes are not pine, then our planes will be mated not by a plane, but by a line and a gap will be obtained, which, of course, will be filled with resin, but it will not look neat. Therefore, first I will drill a hole in the densest and longest workpiece - in ebony.
The drill is fixed, so we just move our workpiece in the axial direction on the drill, looking at the eye from above the alignment (if you don't trust your eyes, then make guides that will be parallel to the drill).
Having drilled the ebony, it is necessary to glue it to cyacrine (ethyl cyanoacrylate, in the common people, super glue) to the beech, by the way, you need to glue it pointwise, grabbing it a little so that you can tear it off. Thus, the hole in the ebony will be a guide, and there will be no displacement. Drilling beech
After the hole in the beech is drilled (by the way, it will be deaf, that is, not through, due to the fact that the drill is short), it is necessary to break these halves and drill the hole through.
Assembling the handle blank.
The assembly will be carried out on an epoxy binder (epoxy resin). First, diluting the resin, we saturate the thread on the rods, there should be no dry places. Then we string our sliced \u200b\u200bblanks onto tubes, like meat on a skewer, not forgetting to grease the mating planes with resin.
It turns out something like multi-colored sticks. The resin completely rises in 24 hours, but the polymerization process continues and the cured resin reaches its maximum strength in about a week, provided that it has been properly prepared (the correct resin / hardener ratio; for ED-20, this is 1 part hardener for 10 parts of resin) ... It remains to squeeze with clamps and wait a little.
When compressed with clamps, the gap between the workpieces becomes even smaller.
After the epoxy has cured, you can start turning the handles. I will sharpen on a TV-6 universal educational lathe.
Turning (profiling) handles.
As I wrote earlier, profiling will be carried out on a TV-6 lathe, it is on lathes that we can get almost any body of revolution (cylinder, ball, cone and others).
The lathe has a chuck into which one end of the handle is clamped and a tailstock into which the center is inserted. When we clamp the part into the chuck, then we are left with a free loose end of the part, which must be clamped with the center.
After the workpiece is clamped in the machine, you can start processing. First, you need to process the workpiece in such a way as to obtain a cylinder with a diameter corresponding to the maximum diameter of the handle plus 0.5 millimeters in reserve.
The resulting cylinder must be narrowed towards the ends, thus giving it the shape of a handle. The easiest way to do this is first with a chisel, and then bring it to the desired state with a sandpaper glued to the bar.
After processing, we get a kind of semi-finished product, which must be processed with a fine sandpaper to level the surface. Cut off the excess sticking out aluminum tube.
Thread cutting.
The thread is required for attaching the front and rear screw caps. Because the handle is quite thin, then the choice of thread size should be taken very carefully. First of all, you need to decide on the diameter and pitch of the thread. The diameter will be 5 millimeters. The thread pitch is the distance between two adjacent threads. The larger the pitch, the larger the thread, and vice versa.
For handles, aesthetics and beauty are more important than fastening strength, so the thread pitch is as small as possible - 0.5 millimeters. In addition, the smaller the pitch, the smaller the height of the thread, and the smaller the diameter of the tube, you can cut the thread without "breaking" it. The threading device is called a tap. The taps differ in numbers, 1, 2 and 3. The difference is that 1 is a tap that has a shallow start and a shallower thread, 2 is a steeper start and an almost full-size thread, 3 is used for final threading, where high precision is required. I will use only the first one so that the thread is tighter, without backlash.
On the left is a two-tap, on the right is a one-tap.
Before cutting the thread, it is necessary to ream the aluminum tube to a diameter of 4.6 millimeters (remember that the inner diameter is 4 millimeters). Otherwise, the tap will unfold the hole as if it were a reamer.
A wrench is used to cut the thread, or rather to hold the tap. It is best to hold the handle in your hand when threading, because a vice, pliers and other holding devices will wrinkle the handle and make it look disgusting. Also, when cutting a thread, it is better to wrap the handle in foam rubber, since if we hold the handle in our hands, the grease, sweat and dirt that is on our hands will be absorbed into the wood, and this will be especially visible on light wood.
The thread must be cut to a depth of 10 millimeters, not less. This is due to the fact that the thread length in the cap is 10 millimeters.
Finished thread in the handle.
Drawing an inscription.
In order for the pen to be even more unique and acquire belonging to its owner, that is, it becomes personalized, it is necessary to apply a name. The name will be applied to the lightest part of the handle (maple). The principle of applying the inscription is as follows:
1. In Photoshop CS, draw a name, the type of name that we want to see on the pen.
2. Invert the image vertically or horizontally. It doesn't matter how, the point is to get a mirror image of our drawing.
3. Resize the image so that it fits perfectly on the light part of the handle and doesn't stick out. In this case, the length (largest dimension) is 20 millimeters, and the height is determined proportionally.
After these operations, print some image data on the sheet using laser printer (namely laser, not inkjet and not matrix, otherwise nothing will work).
But before applying the image to the handle, I will try to apply it first to a test piece of wood.
How to do it, cut off a small piece with our image, fix it with paper tape on the blank. Next, take a heated iron and heat our image. It is necessary to heat carefully, since when overheated, the paper can stick to the piece of wood and remain on it in pieces (the image transfer is carried out almost according to the same principle as in a laser printer; the coloring matter in a laser printer is toner (powder), which, when heated, “cakes ”And sticks to the surface on which it was before heating, therefore, if toner spills on your clothes, do not wash them in hot water).
After practicing cropping, let's start applying the image directly to the pen itself.
We fix it, and after heating we get it. As you can see in the picture, the name does not look very contrasting, that is, it does not have a radical black color, therefore, we take a gel black pen in our hand and carefully outline the contours. The result is clearly visible in the next photo (the letter "A" is not fully circled).
After the lettering is completely outlined, leave the pen alone to allow the paste to dry. At this point, the inscription can be considered complete.
Manufacturing of caps.
Unfortunately, when I sharpened the caps, the camera was not at hand, so there are no photos of the manufacturing process. There are only photographs of finished products. Therefore, I will try to describe the manufacturing process in words.
We put before our eyes the drawing drawn earlier. First, we need to determine the size in place. The maximum diameter of the cap will be equal to the small diameter of the handle on the side of the cap. Then we sharpen the "protrusion" for the thread (diameter 5 millimeters). Having pierced, we cut the external thread with a scraper (a tool for cutting an external thread, unlike dies, a scraper is a one-piece tool, and therefore gives a more accurate thread, especially of small diameters). And only after that, exactly after cutting the thread, we drill the hole. Why after threading? It's simple, the fact is that if we first drill a hole, then we get a case when we cut the threads on the tube. Threading is accompanied by a large twisting moment acting on the rod (tube) on which we cut, as a result of which the tube may simply break. It is for this reason that we first cut the thread, and then we drill.
After tapping and drilling the hole, you can start to design the ogival shape of the cap.
Bringing the cap to the shape you like (similar to the drawing shape), we take the skin and level the surface (the fact is that after turning, “rings” remain on the material). We use several skins of different grain sizes for best results. And, lastly, we take a felt circle (felt boots are also made from felt), apply GOI paste (polishing paste) on it and polish the cap so that the metal looks evenly, without rings and scratches.
To achieve even more gloss, you can rub the caps on paper, the most common sheet of paper.
Handle varnishing.
So we have come to the last, final stage. To protect the wood from which the handle is made from weather conditions, sweat from hands, grease, we will varnish the handle. At first I wanted to use epoxy for the coating, but it turned out to be thick, and when thinned with methyl alcohol after curing, it remained soft and loose, like jelly. This option, of course, is not suitable.
This was followed by a trip to the store, more precisely to the supermarket of construction goods. Most interested in the shelves with paintwork. In general, after a short stay there, I chose a glossy parquet varnish. In theory, the varnish is specially designed for surfaces that are most susceptible to abrasion.
I will varnish it using the “pouring method”, that is, completely lower the handle into a jar with varnish and place it in a place where the excess varnish will drain off and leave an even glossy layer. Why this particular method? It's simple, handles are mostly made at home and varnished too, so the coating with a spray gun immediately disappears, since the spread when spraying varnish will be very large and stain everything around. Brush. You can also cover it with a brush, but in this case, the directions in which the brush was driven will be visible on the handle, and the remnants of the pile do not bring joy.
Before dipping, it is necessary to close up with plasticine, for example, the hole at the bottom, thereby protecting the thread from getting varnish into it.
The photograph shows that when draining, the varnish forms transverse irregularities, similar to waves. But, after the excess varnish is drained off, the surface will become glossy and shiny.
After 24 hours, remove the pens, carefully clean the ends with a scalpel from the remaining varnish, clean out all the plasticine, screw up the caps by inserting the paste. After the performed operations, we will receive two different, and at the same time, two identical products.
Upper: short, blunt, rounded
Lower: long, sharp, slightly rounded
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Wood is not only a versatile and popular building material. In everyday life, wooden objects are used everywhere and constantly, especially since wood is a very easy material to process. Do-it-yourself wooden handle for a knife is not at all as difficult as it seems at first glance.
Handle types
A wooden handle for a folding or regular kitchen model should be comfortable first and foremost. Actually, this is the attractiveness of making it with your own hands: you can make a handle of any configuration, any size suitable for your hand and soak it with any composition.
For self-production, 2 types of wooden handles are most often used:
- rider - a cavity is formed at the end of the product, into which a blade with a narrow shank is fixed. At the same time, the handle is a single unit and is very resistant to damage. A folding knife cannot be made this way;
- overhead - suitable for wide shank blades. In this case, the handle consists of two parts, which are superimposed on the blade. The handle is heavier, which allows the wide blade to balance. For a kitchen knife, for example, this is important. The foldable model is always a delivery note type. The photo shows a set for a foldable version.
Materials and tools
To make a kitchen knife with a wooden handle, you need to choose the right wood, process, soak, cut in the parts and fix it in the chosen way. This will require such materials.
- Wood - as a rule, wood with an original texture and pattern is chosen to make the product attractive, as in the picture. With this preference is given to hard and durable species - oak, walnut, maple. It is more difficult to cut a handle from such wood, but the result will also last a long time. In any case, the wood must be selected dry - no more than 12-15% moisture, and must be treated with antiseptics.
- The blade itself is purchased ready-made. For manufacturing, you need to know exactly the dimensions of the shank and the weight of the blade.
- Fasteners - epoxy is used for kitchen knives with a stick-in handle. A brass or copper rod of the required diameter was needed to attach the top handle.
- Impregnation - the product must be impregnated with a suitable composition. Linseed oil or special dish varnish is most often used. It is necessary to saturate the handle not only in order to give it a beautiful shine: the composition protects the tree from moisture. How to impregnate a wooden knife handle depends on the type of product.
- Tools - as a rule, a set is quite common: cutters, a plane, a hacksaw. However, electrical models can also be used to speed up the process.
How to make a handle
To make a handle, you need some experience with wood.
At the same time, this work is quite suitable for practice for a beginner.
- Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
- With a hacksaw or jigsaw, a workpiece of a suitable shape is cut out of wood. If this is the first test, it is better to do without indentations for the fingers, but if you already have experience, you can choose the most optimal configuration. At the first stage, the workpiece has only an approximate shape, then its shape is brought to perfection with a cutter and a hacksaw. How to handle a wooden knife handle depends on the skill and desire of the master.
- The finished workpiece is processed with sandpaper to perfect smoothness.
- A groove for the blade is drilled at the end of the product. The depth depends on the weight of the blade. The shank should fit easily onto the handle. The photo shows the formation of a groove.
- Then the product is treated with, for example, linseed oil. Oil is poured into a small saucepan, placed in a water bath, and the workpiece is immersed in an impregnation and held until air bubbles stop appearing.
- The wooden handle is left to dry.
- Prepare epoxy resin - according to the instructions. Mix it with sawdust and fill the handle cavity with resin.
- A blade is inserted into the cavity, observing the correct position, and left to dry for a day. In order not to stain the product, and the epoxy resin is rubbed off with great difficulty, the blade is wrapped with tape, as in the picture.
The overhead model for a folding knife is made a little differently. Here, rivets and vices will be included in the toolbox.
- The rough workpiece is held in a vice and cut into 2 parts. Then both parts are polished to perfection using cutters and sandpaper.
- Assemble the product: the blade is placed between the parts of the handle. The attachment points are noted and holes are drilled through the workpiece. Thus, a perfect match of the holes is achieved.
- Then, rivets are made from a rod with a diameter that matches the diameter of the hole.
- The blanks are treated with oil according to the technology described above.
- Epoxy is applied to the inside of the parts, shank and rivets. Collect the product and wrap it tightly with tape.
- The handle should be ready in a day. If necessary, it is cleaned of excess epoxy resin.
In the video, making a handle with your own hands is covered in more detail.
It is easy to make a beautiful simple pen and make it original. The most original ideas you can think of.
To make a beautiful pen, you need to take the pen itself, decor material and glue. You can decorate by wrapping it with a narrow satin ribbon, attach a flower or a paper or fabric bow to the top edge. Get an original designer thing. Such a pen can be an interesting gift made with a soul.
The idea to braid the handle with multicolored threads using the macrame technique, and if also with original weaving - a chic option for a stylish girl.
You can decorate your pen as you like with any beautiful things, rubber bands, stickers, feathers, rhinestones. Anything you want.
What can be made from a pen
The body of a ballpoint pen can serve as a material for various crafts.
- You can make an original mobile phone stand. This will require four to five pens and rubber bands for money. Twist the three handles with an elastic band to create a stable tripod. Screw one or two handles horizontally to the two legs, depending on the thickness of the phone. Set the resulting structure slightly at an angle and place your smartphone on it. It is very convenient to watch videos and hands are free.
- You can make a pen and four simple pencils. From pencils, using rubber bands, collect the base in the shape of the letter "T". Attach the old pen along the bottom of the letter. The elastic will perform the function of the bowstring. Old empty rods can be used as arrows. Here is a toy for the boys ready.
Many people probably remember the multi-tiered chandeliers with transparent plastic pendants. - The same principle can be done. You will need a plastic circle attached to the lamp, and a lot of multi-colored transparent housings from the handles. Stationery is fixed in a circle with wire or paper clips. When you turn on the lamp, the lampshade will look like a crystal and scatter the multi-colored light.
How to make a pen with your own hands
How to make a 3D pen with your own hands
This handle can be made with a regular glue gun. First, you need to disassemble it and remove the pushing mechanism; it is better to saw off the lower part of the pistol handle. Then you need to reduce the outlet. You can put a paper clip in there and wrap it around so it doesn't fall out. The next step is to attach a mini fan, these are found in different devices and are sold in stores as spare parts. Small crocodiles are attached to the fan wiring, we will use them to connect the battery. Now you need to attach the crown battery to the bottom of the gun. Use plastic ties and glue to secure all parts. That's all - a DIY 3D pen is ready. You can try to draw.
A fountain pen requires the nib itself. You can take turkey or goose, they are large. Paint with dyes in any color you want. It is possible in several colors at once. The feather cover above the base should be removed to make it easier to hold when writing. Using a sharp knife, cut off the lower part of the feather under the cone. It is very hard and you can write with the resulting tip.
You can also use a calligraphic pen. It must be attached to the prepared turkey feather, and the junction must be decorated. Done this way, the writing pen will be more durable.
DIY gel pen
- A gel pen can be made in the same way as a simple one. Any material can be used as a body for the rod. Only insert the gel rod into the manufactured flask.
- The gel pen is an aquarium, a very interesting option and the rod can be changed. For making, you will need a transparent flask with a wooden stopper. We make a hole in the cork according to the size of the gel rod. The cork can be painted if desired. Pour water into the flask and add glycerin. The more glycerin there is, the slower the decor will float inside. Pour into a flask filled with liquid, various sparkles, stars and always foil fish. We insert the rod into the cork and close the flask with it. Handle - the aquarium is ready.
How to make a paper pen
A pen made of paper can be of a wide variety of colors. To make it, you need an A4 sheet and a rod. Cut off part of the sheet at an angle so that when you twist the rod, you get a beveled nose. We take the rod, coat it with glue, when it sticks tightly, we begin to twist it tightly. At the end, coat with glue. You can color the pen as you like. Various patterns can be drawn. Be sure to cover the pen with varnish so that the paper does not rub during use.
The rod in such a handle will not change. Ended up, make a new pen.
How to make a pencil pen
To create two-in-one pen and pencil you need a pen, a simple pencil. We disassemble the handle. Cut off half of the pencil, as little as possible. Now you need to insert a piece of pencil into the body of the pen. Naturally, it will not fit there, so you need to cut it a little with a clerical knife. They put in a pencil and tied it tightly with duct tape. Now we cut the rod from the handle to insert it into place and assemble the handle. Now you don't need to look for a pencil to draw something, you will always have it on the back of the pen you write with.
Do not throw away the rest of the pencil, it will come in handy next time.
How to make an invisible handle
To make an invisible handle, you need to do it first. Making such ink at home is not difficult. To do this, you need a diluted solution of copper sulfate. It has a slightly bluish tint, if you write something to them, it will not be visible. To read such a letter, you can hold the paper over ammonia.
You will have to write with such ink using a fountain pen, since you will not be able to pour it into the refill. And if someone succeeds in doing this, they will still flow out, because they are very liquid.
Spy ink can also be made from lemon juice; it appears if the letter is heated strongly with an iron.
What to do to make the pen write
If suddenly your pen has stopped writing, and there is still a lot of ink, you need to do the following.
- Disassemble the pen, pull out the writing tip and blow from the other end. Perhaps there were just air bubbles.
- Without disassembling the pen from the end with which you are writing, pull the ink towards you with a suction movement. It also helps a lot and you won't get dirty.
- You can just breathe on the nib, maybe the ink has thickened a little. Warm breath will make them thinner.
- A radical solution is to replace the rod, it could be defective.