Any product of wood, whether furniture, doors, window frames, or something else, needs finishing. And the point here is not only in appearance, although in it too, but also in the protection of organic material from external factors. Homemade masters often faced with complex choice Fashion finish treatment Woods. Moreover, even for an experienced joiner, a tree finish - the task is not simple.
Despite the fact that the wood itself has a wonderful appearance, it is still necessary to separate it. There are technologists that allow both to preserve its original type of wood, and change it beyond recognition. And in the fact, and in another case, the treated products from the tree will serve for many years, while in the untreated form will be spoiled by several years later.
All used finishing formulations for wood can be divided into four groups: clean oils, lacquer and oil mixtures, varnishes and synthetic compositions on water based. Read more about the components and properties of various varnishes, read a separate material on this site in the section " paints and varnishes».
The above groups hits most of the wood finishing materials, with the exception of polish and shellac. The latter is a product of vital activity of tropical insects; And the political in this context is a shellated alcohol solution used to polish wooden surfaces.
Among the amateur joiners, the erroneous opinion is common that high-quality finish is defined by a mechanized manner. However, it is not. Practically, any of the existing liquids can be applied manually. At the same time, by observing the technology of application and subsequent processing, it is possible to achieve very high results. Remember vintage musical instruments Or antique furniture, from brilliant surfaces of which, eye can not be left.
First of all, you need to assimilate that a beautiful wooden surface is achieved by the thoroughness of its processing. The finish can be good, but maybe very good. Meanwhile, the time and patience of the wizard is spent time and patience.
What instruments may be needed for finishing wood processing with oil and varnish compositions?
Standard toolkit for varnishing and polishing consists of: 
- cleansing napkins for collecting dust from a lounge-free vehicle, for example from gauze with impregnation;
- a set of skins for dry grinding of the finished coating and intermediate layers (No. 320, 400, 500);
- pumbe powder and limestone for surface treatment with butter. Pumice creates a matte effect, and the limestone enhances the shine;
- wax finishing paste, which is applied to the treated surface in order to guide the gloss and give it water-repellent properties;
- sticks for sedimentation of sediment in banks with varnish;
- porolone rollers for applying finishing oils. With their help, oil is quickly and evenly distributed over the surface;
- artificial pile brushes used to apply water-soluble varnishes;
- brushes with a natural pile to apply oil-based varnishes;
- porolone sponges that can be applied and oils, but not shellac and politics;
- seamless cotton tampones for finishing varnish;
- mandrels for spinning brushes and rollers;
- steel and synthetic confused (zero) for smoothing the surface of the finishing or muffling of the gloss of the finish layer.
Undiluted (pure) finishing oils
Pure finishing oils include raw linen, nut, tung oil, as well as some mineral oils. They have a high penetrating ability and do not form a rigid film on the surface of the wood. Oil does not protect the surface from scratches, but the absence of a fragile film still makes it less sensitive to them. 
Wood coating undiluted oil improves its appearance: products begin to glisten, and their structure becomes more expressive. However, clean oils are not suitable for opening furniture, because they will delay dust. However, all other surfaces opened with oil, with time dump, but again restore the shine during re-autopsy. Natural oils are good because they are absolutely environmentally friendly.
Many masters when finishing decorative Products often used linseed oil And Olif, sometimes only as the first layer. Flaxseed oil, in contrast to the olifa, containing sequitations (substances that reduce drying period), can be saved by weeks, so it is used much less frequently.
Oil finishes to apply the easiest. On the flat surfaces, the oil is applied by a foam roller, and on the embossed - tampon. After applying, it is necessary to give oil to soak into the wood for an hour, after which the cotton will remove the extra, spending along the fibers.
Folding oils require longer exposure after application. They are applied in several layers, from five or more. Each subsequent layer should be applied after drying the previous one.
Some carpets are covered with oil cutting boards Or worktops from woody array. Water pretty quickly flips oil from fibers, so it is often necessary to update the oil coating.
Mixtures of oils and varnish
Oil finishes with the addition of varnish are called Danish oil. It is diluted with mineral spirits; Enter the sequivos in its composition, reducing drying time. Not a large number of Lacquer significantly improves the performance of the finishes. To enhance the Danish oil even more by adding a polyurethane finishing mixture on an oil basis in a proportion of 3: 1. Exceeding the content of polyurethane finishing more of this proportion is not recommended, because The mixture will be too thick and it will be difficult to apply.
The oil-lacquer mixture is great for most wooden products, with the exception of those subjected to different negative impacts. For example, you should not apply them when opening the kitchen countertops, but for journal or coffee tables They are suitable very good.
Each layer of finishing oil / varnish dries at least 12 hours. It is better to withstand the day after applying each layer. Drying time can be increased at low temperatures or high humidity.
Varnish
Most of the lacquers used today are made on the basis of synthetic resins, although the resins were used before. The thing is that synthetic resins, such as polyurethane and acrylic, have higher strength. A very popular yacht varnish containing a lot of oil, which bets the lacquer film high elasticity. The latter is especially important for wood, which is subject to periodic humidification, as a result of which its linear dimensions change. The yacht varnish also contains special inhibitors that create an ultraviolet filter, thereby protecting the tree from the destructive effect of sun rays.
For better penetration Laca in the structure of the wood is diluted with mineral spirits. The varnish from this turns out more liquid, and in this form it is better to apply a tampon. In this case, the number of layers should be greater than when using undiluted varnishes.
Well absorbed varnish can be made and yourself. To do this, a part of the painted solvent is added to the conventional polyurethane lacquer.
When applied lacquers, you need to ensure that the film being generated is not too thick, as the excess can not be removed, as in the case of oil-lacquered mixtures.
Varnish for the very first layer can be sufficiently thick, but when applying the subsequent layers it is better to make it more liquid. So the varnish will dry faster, and the layers at the same time will be thinner and uniform.
Varnish is applied with a brush along the fibers, ranging from the middle of the board and towards its ends. If some defects are formed in the lacquer layer (for example, the pile will adopt), then it can be removed later by shining these places with a fine-grained skin. Dish varnish surfacesLocked by abrasive become matte, but re-acquire glitter after re-applying varnish. If the wood was toned by a verse, then it is impossible to clean it, without applying a pre-2-3 layer of varnish, otherwise the tinting can wipe along with varnish.
Water-based varnishes
In liquid form, such varnishes have a stupid appearance, up to milk color. They become transparent after drying. Water-based varnishes are most environmentally friendly, while they are not inferior oil varnishesmanufactured from the same resin. The transparency coefficient of frozen water-soluble varnishes is the highest. In its pure form, they are absolutely colorless. Thus, if you need to maintain the original color of the tree without the slightest changes, then only water-soluble varnishes should be used. Of course, they do not distort the color of the veil, and even white enamel.
Water based varnishes are applied with a synthetic pile with brushes (best nylon). The lacquer temperature should be within 23 ° -30 ° C. If the bank with varnish is too cold, it can be heated, lowered in warm water. It is possible to dilute water-based varnishes only with distilled water and no more than 10%.
If the experience of wood finishes is missing at all, it is better to first take off on a piece of blackboard. It is desirable that this board is from the same wood as the product that needs to be finished. Mastery will come with time.
1st_pilot. 07-05-2010 21:04
In this topic, you can discuss various issues of wood processing.
Comrades! I discovered after the first season of hunting that the coating of the Izhmeh tree was ascended! those. It is practically left. Rose by itself a matter of tree processing! I have a nut. Who handled what? I understand that I am not the first faced with such a problem ... I considered the version of the wood processing with flaxseed oil for all technologies, but it really freezed ... I want to ride the stand! And in the oil well, a lot of time the whole process takes up, I would like to make a tree that would not change when processing. So I'm waiting for advice on this! Thank you all in advance!
Murlakatam. 07-05-2010 21:56
I have a nut. Who handled what?
The question is similar
And in general, I think that such replacing clothes will not be superfluous depending on the conditions of hunting
mNKUZN. 11-05-2010 12:59
I soaked the butter with zevy linen oil. It was a lot of a lot. Before impregnation toned by manganese. It turned out well, but dark.
Save the oil for a long time, it is still yes. More precisely, polymerizes. And he also has such a feature - if you drink constantly, without giving oil to dry, it will penetrate the wood too deep. If this is not needed, you can take the olive - it will penetrate not so deep, literally for several mm, and it will freeze faster. In good natural Olife There are additives that accelerate polymerization. Look in the subject about IZh43KN. There, the impregnation technology of the impregnation with Olifoy painted well. Good, they say, Shaftol from clover (the office that the ballernya does). Narc is in no case ...
1st_pilot. 11-05-2010 04:31
Yes thank you! I read a few branches came to the conclusion that I won't be in a hurry, but I would do it, but for a long time ... I will soak the natural linen Olifa and I finish this business Danish Oil. Very beautiful colour It turns out
zMEI-66. 22-06-2010 12:49
Beautifully ...... The finished result from the peephol propacate seems to be faster than flax oil?
1st_pilot. 22-06-2010 01:25
All about everything went 8 days! Polymerizes days for 5
Agava. 07-07-2010 14:24
qUOTE: Originally Posted by MnKuzn:
And also, braza, but does Shaftol work on liny or him only on a naked tree makes sense to apply?
Worked. Recently experienced on his izh (nut). The previous owner handled liny. Arranged 5 layers of Shaftol, every day on the layer. Right now plotted a piece of drape. Excellent everything turned out. Does not stink, it will not stick to the hands, the water rolls with large drops.
Agava. 07-07-2010 14:29
Maybe there is MP-133? I wonder if a pistol handle with the 153rd Murke will fit it. It would be quite wonderful if someone posted a photo of the place and method of fastening to the trunks. I know that the screw, but it is better to see once.
Zol51 08-07-2010 23:36
Handles and buttons 133 and 153 are interchangeable and have the same mount.
Murlakatam. 11-07-2010 19:49
People, tell me the subtlety
when processing wood covers all or only the external part?
i especially interest me inside Zevya
Already changed his beauty in plastic for a while, everything prepared, but this question put in a stupor ...
1st_pilot. 11-07-2010 22:06
I carried from the inside to the Shaftol with a thin brush, in total, probably layers 5, considered that enough. On the notch generally inflicted 1 layer according to Konstantinich's advice. If there is more notch much darkens, it will not be gut. Since there the fibers of the tree are completely disclosed, then the bedtol is absorbed very and very well
Murlakatam. 11-07-2010 22:27
qUOTE: Originally Posted by 1st_pilot:
If you apply more notch strongly darkens
So I will soak for the quality of preservation, and not for just beauty
1st_pilot. 12-07-2010 01:32
one layer is enough for a notch! And beauty will be saved!
Agava. 12-07-2010 07:51
i really do not at Murke, but on IL-12, notch is darker than the other tree due to advanced years. Taks on it (notch) put 2 layers of toothbrush. It was enough. The goal, like most, is saved, and then beauty.
fider. 26-07-2010 09:31
Tell me, but it makes sense to treat a tree on a new rifle, naturally inconsistent factory coating.
1st_pilot. 26-07-2010 09:36
The factory coverage will have to take a love to shoot, and there is a sense ... After a couple of three hunts in the rain (or even in the fog), believe me from the factory coating. And with impregnation and beautiful and practical!
fider. 26-07-2010 09:56
And Shaftol, in your opinion, is reliable and for a long time?
1st_pilot. 26-07-2010 10:12
here look in this branch there are a couple of topics for the processing of the tree, the conclusions will make themselves
alchemist 26-07-2010 12:44
we remove the old coating - and at least 5 layers of Danish Oil ...
skab!
fider. 26-07-2010 14:12
alchemist 26-07-2010 14:26
qUOTE: Originally posted by fider:
Where to buy it can be. What magic does it happen in?
At exhibitions, in many shops on the woods there are ...
http://yandex.ru/yandsearch?text\u003ddanish+il&lr\u003d213
alchemist 26-07-2010 15:03
now in such a heat - Danish Oil per day - 5 layers only on the road
especially if it is engaged in it for the first layers.
1st_pilot. 28-07-2010 10:46
alchemist, if not difficult to attach photos of your works ... It is very interesting what happened
alchemist 28-07-2010 13:42
photo ... I will not soon get to the safe, you can in words?
1. What Sasha Hummel did - he removed the old coating, on IL 27, everything polished with steel cotton, degreased, the first layers diluted with gasoline, each layer polished. Then without gasoline and so many layers, until the tree ceases to take Danish Oil. It turned out cool, water runs away ... but blossom
1st_pilot. 28-07-2010 13:51
yes, the technology is about the same everywhere, I just wanted to look at the result.
alchemist 28-07-2010 22:36
I will lay out, just before the safe, do not get it)))
In MNU, the light walnut turned out to be not brilliant, the layers dried on the balcony during the Azza heat.
well, Izh 54 also processed.
I will say so - behind the dog lasted so that the butt was completely in the water. Nicho did not swear not crackled. To the hands nice.
Leshiu. 16-09-2010 09:12
Do I need to shoot the factory coating in the pattern places (or how to call it) on the bed?
mNKUZN. 18-09-2010 09:28
qUOTE: Do I need to shoot the factory coating in the pattern places (or how to call it) on the bed?
Need or not - to solve you. I believe that if you do complete processing, you need to remove it. Do this: take toothbrush With cut half bristle and wash off the coating using, adem, acetone. You can also take a nubuck cleaning brush - it is tough and there are metal villi in it.
Leshiu. 18-09-2010 10:11
And inside the lodges, too, need to process? Or quite the outside?
mNKUZN. 18-09-2010 10:41
I processed and inside - especially in the ends. Because When cutting a tree across the fibers, it absorbs liquids very well. Therefore, it is necessary to process the surface of the part as possible as possible, incl. and inside.
sergey56. 21-09-2010 19:34
Guys .... Tell us in detail, for people like me (to put it mildly teapots) How to cover this Shaftol on technology namely:
1. On stripping everything is clear ...
2. If there are dents to remove sandpaper or with glycol and soldering iron?
3. Need to degrease ???
4. What brush to apply ????
4.1. brush material
4.2. How many smears in one place,
5 How spreads
6. How to achieve uniformity
7. Low-layer excerpt
8. In what condition is better to install for applying and drying
9. How many Luha layers a day and in general
10. How to determine what completely dried
11. What to polish ???
Please respond as soon as possible ... Lies a new orthopedic butt, the day after tomorrow will come Tsevyu and not tolerant to change his Murk
1st_pilot. 21-09-2010 23:42
2. Not very old dents soldering iron are removed (up to 1 year for sure) Well, and if not very deep. If the deep then sandpaper.
3. Decrease inappropriate, remove the old solvent coating (if varnish).
4. Any! It is better small for her more convenient. It is possible a rag tampon of nonvilous tissue.
4.1. Any.
4.2. Apply a thin uniform layer, so that there is a coating but not very fat so that it does not fit, moreover, in the first stages almost immediately absorbed.
5. Liquid enough (xs themselves decide not so much critical))))).
6. Yes, it will not fall uniformly! More accurately absorbed. Well, respectively, based on the structure of the tree.
7. I put a layer with a break in 30-40 minutes, I waited until it was absorbed (when the shine disappears, then you can apply a new layer) on my first day it turned out about 15 layers (sort).
8. I put in my hands later I simply put on the end to the windowsill, put polyethylene, because it will be problematic to remove the coftal if you wanted.
9. Yes, as much time is enough. Then, then in color, how to get the desired "darkness" so to speak, you can stop. I applied for 3 days, on the first day 15 layers and in the next 2 days by layer every evening.
10. At the verification is formed a resistant film and will not stick to the hands. Drying (the polymerization is more correct) will take about 5-7 days.
11. I polished in the process before applying Shaftol sandpaper 280, 400, 800, 1500, 2000. After polymerization felt and cloud. Very important moment This is the so-called cleaner of the pile, it needs to be held after final grinding have not yet begun to apply Shaftol! Wash the tree with a damp napkin and give it to dry about 10-15 minutes (for this time the pile rises) you remove the pile of the scent of 1500 and so much! This process must be repeated at least 5 times! I did 7! After that, polishing 2000 and ahead!)) It is this process that will affect the final result! The tree will be smooth and brilliant!
uV .. everything seems! Good luck!
1st_pilot. 22-09-2010 12:04
now all)))
sergey56. 22-09-2010 11:07
qUOTE: Wet a damp cloth a tree and give it to dry about 10-15 minutes (a pile rises during that time) remove the pile of the sandpaper 1500 and the new urine! This process must be repeated at least 5 times! I did 7! After that, polishing 2000 and ahead!)) It is this process that will affect the final result! The tree will be smooth and brilliant!
and if the wet 2000 in the wet tree ???? To harvest the pile ????
1st_pilot. 22-09-2010 11:18
no need, moisture is needed in order for the pile to rose ... And it is better to remove it when it dries
sergey56. 23-09-2010 15:50
and in the location of those who will do this: a grill (notch) should be washed off the first, and then heave the rest
zabuqrai78. 23-09-2010 18:46
Being, tell me. I bought a new rifle of MR-153, is it possible whether the Tsevier can be covered with varnish, and how reliably it will be securely. Thanks in advance.
1st_pilot. 24-09-2010 12:40
In general, it is not reliable, getting under the rain on the hunt will go white stains, absolutely does not protect .. Soak the flax with shklol and TP
sergey56. 24-09-2010 14:49
still lacquer on the frost is decorated .... the same thing is that the trunk naked hand hold on....
Right now, Shaftol has your own tree ..... Cool it turns out (butt the beech and Tsevyo Walnut, and hell distinguish)
sergey56. 24-09-2010 14:53
my observations in the process of preparation of the tree and applying the first layer of Shaftol:
walnut is better polished, you can get a chic glitter in a clean tree, but the beech is tracked so far ....
sergey56. 24-09-2010 17:40
Strange ..... what for crap ?????? On the third layer, Shaftol began to absorb badly and a lot of varnish simply spreads and flows onto the cell .....
butt and Tsevyo put it vertically and during impregnation on the third layer, this lacquer was evenly spread through the tree, after 10 minutes, it was absorbed from above (it can be glasses ... x .. What is good ???? or....
1st_pilot. 24-09-2010 18:23
wait for the still absorbed and on the new! Three layers are little
1st_pilot. 24-09-2010 18:24
thin layer of majesta and wait for the moment
zabuqrai78. 24-09-2010 20:29
And how Shaftol is better to apply, and then I bought and there is a word in Russian?
sergey56. 24-09-2010 23:11
see the post nn 55,56 there everything is
sergey56. 25-09-2010 18:36
And so .... I finished the bottle of Shaftol and ..... conclusions for processing: for beech (zevyo + butt) enough and half of the vial of 6-8 layers, because then it absorbs very badly, but the whole bottle is required 10 ... 15 layers absorbs capital ...
I was in the store today, I wanted to buy another bottle, but the seals were dissuading ... - We are taking it to the weapon restorers and they say that the bottle is enough for two goals and the whole bottle is finished with a butt confront ....
in the color of the same (butt the beech and zevyo nut) but the texture fails if you look ...
waiting for polymerization ... in a week I will unsubscribe about the jokes of polishing
dankvart. 27-09-2010 06:07
I generally drank specifically.
He removed the factory coating, everything spent, raised a pile.
Began impregnation with Shaftol. I put 4 layers, and Tsevye take, and crazy.
Obviously, this is due to what hung in the sun.
We will have plastic hand in winter frost :-(
sergey56. 27-09-2010 13:48
we have a plastic kit 1600, and the butt in the tree 2500, ordered orthopedic (with delivery it turned out 4100) until he cracked, dries on the stove the second day ....
and he burst into you during, and so on the cold, on the hunt, yes after the shot Magnum .... imagine what would happen ?????
on plastic winnings only that he does not die and does not scratch .... otherwise (beauty, balance, maintainability) is generally not ice
sergey56. 27-09-2010 13:51
damn ... everything took ... (Tsevyu with butt) And Tsevyu about 900r stands ... Look at the online store Grandfather Mazay there and Shaftol cheap ...
sergey56. 29-09-2010 19:44
It will dry for four days .... Holidays on the floor tone brightened and began to be a matte gloss .... Let's wait a couple of days and it will be polished by
sergey56. 30-09-2010 15:13
And yes! Another important point! Writing is better to clean with a solvent 646-647 and a toothbrush with cut half a pile! And do not apply more than 2 layers of beds on a notch .. Since there is a fiber of wood cut off, it absorbs very good and if you apply more than 2 layers to get the difference in color! The notch will be darker that it does not look beautiful!
now all)))
1st_pilot Listen .... It turns out that processing the butt We will seek the goal of the impregnation of the tree and protect it from external atmospheric precipitation and here it turns out that the notch is not protecting ??? (2 ... 3 layers are few of these are your words) or vice versa ... if 2 ... 3 layers for notch enough, and for the rest of the tree, the same is enough or I do not understand something ????
if 2 ... 3 layers on the butt, then the wet is enough for two goals (as we make weapons restorers)
Guys ... Let's discuss ...
1st_pilot. 30-09-2010 21:12
On the notch of the fiber "Opened" there, Shaftol is better absorbed, instantly ... In addition, with further impregnation on the notch, Shaftol will be lingering, it will be shorter. Two layers for the eyes, he did according to the instructions of the guru on the impregnation of Liza of Moderator Konstantinich, he is in this case special. Just will be very ugly! The tree will be with a pattern, the right color and the notch will be black
mNKUZN. 01-10-2010 09:40
qUOTE: The tree will be with a pattern, the right color and the notch will be black
I did not see this liny.
sergey56. 01-10-2010 11:16
[B] On the fiber's notch, the shaftol is better absorbed there, instantly ... In addition, with further impregnation on a notch, the Shaftol will be lingering, it will be shorter. Two layers for the eyes, he did according to the instructions of the guru on the impregnation of Liza of Moderator Konstantinich, he is in this case special. Just will be very ugly! The tree will be with a pattern, the right color and the notch will be black
So, when removing the pile, the same fibers open ... they can be seen ... especially on the beech ...
So how many layers of beds are considered sufficient when impregnating ????? How much should we need to protect the tree and not for beauty ?????
1st_pilot. 01-10-2010 12:45
All in different ways, someone before getting the right color (if the shaftol is dark), and someone until the moment to absorb stopping ... that is, the layer will be labeled every day until you stop absorbing. For me, for example, it turned out about 20 layers ... On the first day I inflicted about 15 (maybe a little more) and then two more days on the layer. On the hunt fell to a specific rain. With the rain, it was raining all day long, a tree at least henna. If the color is not important, then covering until you absorb not stop
sergey56. 18-10-2010 22:14
yesterday I came from hunting .... Butt was long (it's hard to throw up) .... Today I decided to shorten on 15mm ... After the unpilovka, I saw such a picture on a cut tree: Shaftol, or rather, his 10 layers penetrated a tree by 1.5 ... 2mm deep into. I think that the result is not bad ....
1st_pilot. 19-10-2010 09:07
Lay out foty, what happened?
sergey56. 19-10-2010 10:18
Right now "Remains" butt, or rather, I'm going to walk again with Shaftol ... Polinger and sfotkayu ...
rexfy. 21-10-2010 21:03
qUOTE: Originally Posted by Murlakatam:
The question is similar
Share your experience is whether there is a processing option without a hemorah in all ass
By the way, at the time of handling personally, I have already looked after a set of plastic
rexfy. 21-10-2010 21:06
The originals will postmond Murlakatam:
[B]
The question is similar
Share your experience is whether there is a processing option without a hemorah in all ass
By the way, at the time of handling personally, I have already looked after a set of plastic
And in general, I think that such replacing clothes will not be superfluous depending on the conditions of hunting
Two years ago, it covered all the Tykkurila Tykkurila tree for boats, no chick.
sergey56. 26-10-2010 21:02
qUOTE: The question is similar
Share your experience is whether there is a processing option without a hemorah in all ass
By the way, at the time of handling personally, I have already looked after a set of plastic
And in general, I think that such replacing clothes will not be superfluous depending on the conditions of hunting
everything is simple:
in short, I recommend how to spend
zabuqrai78. 27-10-2010 19:17
Also, today I bought a polyurethane yacht varnish, today covered, let's see what it will look. I want to strike 3 layers. Then lay out pictures.
zabuqrai78. 30-10-2010 18:53
It turned out super. Satisfied like an elephant.
nicochot 30-10-2010 21:52
Clearly, otherwise it is written:
qUOTE: today I bought a polyurethane yacht varnish
I turn the bird cells with a yacht varnish, and I recognize the oil on the butt-zev
it does not exhale over time, but only fades, but it does not spoil the view (as in the case of varnish) and is easily restored (wiping after hunting with the same oil).
It is possible that someone and with varnish will get great and durable, but is not mine.
zabuqrai78. 31-10-2010 12:58
Tell me where in Moscow you can make a notch and how much it will cost. Thanks in advance.
Petrovich34. 01-11-2010 13:52
qUOTE: really, Shaftol taxis, for a week you will make your butt as the Lord to the turtle ...
everything is simple:
clean the solvent and toothbrush a notch (reflunder at hand), then ridge the rest of the P240, P320, R600, P1000, then remove the pile (wet a damp cloth, let's dry and pass the P1500, and so 7 times)
you choose the color of the Shaftol apply a tassel and on the stove (or to the battery) in the morning and in the evening (if there is an opportunity and at lunch)
according to the instructions, each layer is disturbing for 8 ... 12 hours ...
shaftol tube enough for a set completely (8 ... 12 layers, how to pour, or rather shed you)
8 ... 10 layers penetrate 1.5 ... 2.5mm deep into the tree and you will be happy ...
and in the future .... shuddered - there was throwing .... Zarapal-smeared
i am awesome and maintainable ... I washed my butt while I scoffed and the tick finished it all I finished it, then 2 layers passed and smoothly ....
in short, I recommend how to spend
And in which stores to look for this bed?
I mean in weapons or not?
1st_pilot. 01-11-2010 14:24
In weapons, buy Balsin Shaftol it is verified!
Petrovich34. 01-11-2010 15:23
Shav 30-11-2010 08:39
After each hunt, cleaned, melted with iron and a pure cloth with linseed oil rubbed a tree. And in five years will be like new.
Sibirak. 01-01-2011 12:34
I handled my linen and wax and no longer worrying. It is always possible to polish with the cloth you can always.
Bombardir. 29-01-2011 17:11
So, it seems that I remembered said, maybe someone will come in handy. He himself, as waiting for plastic and "changed" Murk, be sure to handle the nut with tung oil and carnabish wax.
[Email Protected] 21-02-2011 07:42
Does anyone have a Tsevier from the inside what processes something so that the Nagar does not fit?
Menk. 21-02-2011 11:09
If the tree is a nut, then what color shaftol take? Transparent or still with a tint?
I will explain: I have not yet cleaned the tree, and since the gun is the first, I do not know exactly what kind of color is native (does its factory processing darken). But the color that is now, really like.
Sibirak. 21-02-2011 11:18
Strilling and decide which one needs. What kind of questions7
Forohelg. 12-05-2011 21:37
mazai1982. 03-07-2011 12:08
good evening. Specz is and not simple I saw his work and my Murka there was all sorts of there Beretti Benelli rest if I wonder the number I can tell
igor gemranov. 18-01-2014 18:59
qUOTE: Originally posted by Forohelg:
I bought a new tree at 153, tell someone where it can be adjusted? Or maybe there is no specials. I didn't venture there to climb there.
The eyes are afraid and the hands do. Gently and nesting. There are a lot more to leave a little more than it will be a burst. Your value should not be. In places where they are draled, soaked with liny. (Shavtol and other wreaks nafig I need, especially lacquer. Never. Then the wax. The wax is dissolved in the solvent, the solvent will be evaporated then ..) and from the inside on new ones. Sunlight or Chinese lamp will go for 200r).
------------------
With respect, gemranes.
By passing 08-12-2015 09:57
Guys, tell me. When treatment, plastic glasses inside the Tsevya are withdrawn or not? If yes, how are they removed?
mNKUZN. 10-12-2015 08:47
When treatment, plastic glasses inside the Tsevya are withdrawn or not?
When I impregnated with flax oil did not delete.
By passing 13-12-2015 12:56
Thanks. I also will not shoot
By passing 16-12-2015 17:24
qUOTE: Originally Posted by by passing:
Thanks. I also will not shoot
Removed)))) There was no rest. Pinned on glue. Carefully tapping on the plastic ribs breathed and pulled out. And correctly did. I cleared, when processing will be protection, under the plastic can still get water. After processing, I will put on the sealant - forever).
Nivelir4ik 26-07-2017 12:48
What was the vintage craftsmanship masters for finish finish Tree when there were no synthetic varnishes and coatings? Along with the trigger, they used shellac.
What is shellac? it natural productgenerated by tropical insects. It is mixed with alcohol and it turns out the composition, indispensable for giving the finished wooden products of a beautiful and noble view.
If this composition is properly prepared and apply, the products will get a warm silky matte hue and completion.
How to make shellac at home
I advise you to not buy you the finished composition of the shellaka on alcohol, because it is unnecessarily expensive, and his quality is not aware of what. Shellac is better to buy in a dry form and make a little bit of the composition for use in the desired volume. You can buy it in stores where products for artists or needlework are sold, or order on the Internet.
900 g of shellaca is mixed with 240 ml of denatured alcohol. Shellac flakes sell either amber or bright shade. In order for the product acquired warm tintbetter to take amber, and if you want to save natural color Woods, use bright.
How to apply Shellak
To apply a varnish, you will need a piece of cotton or linen fabric, cotton or woolen lining, mineral oil or kerosene.
Prepare the surface of the tree to varnish. Apply a brush or spray several layers of shellac. Then pass everything to the pure tree with a neck with a grain of 180 units. Remember that the skin is quickly clogged, so changing it in a timely manner. It is necessary to repeat the procedure until the pores filled with the pores are not aligned with the surrounding surface of the tree.
Now Make a linen or cotton cloth with a 20 cm with a wool lining inside. Fill shellac into the lining and make a ball from it. Moisten the bottom of the ball and let it absorb.
Apply a varnish, moving an applicator from side to the side along the fibers of wood. Apply so thin layers so that they instantly dried. The applicator must continuously move without leaving traces. Squeeze the tampon with varnish when it dries on the surface.
If in the process of varnishing the applicator began to move harder and "dragging", moisten a finger in kerosene or mineral oil and apply to the application of the applicator.
Apply the layers until you achieve the desired gloss. To see how final will look finish coat, wipe the product with a rag, moistened kerosene.
For uniform application Laca can do strokes not forward-back, but as in the photo below, which will provide better continuity.
Please note this post:
Doors, furniture, window Ramam - In short, the finish finish is required for each product. It must be done and to improve the appearance of the product, and, most importantly, in order to protect against the impact of external factors. organic material. The method of such wood processing is difficult to choose, even experienced joiners sometimes have difficulty. Although the tree is already beautiful in itself, it is still necessary to separate it. Thanks modern technologies, It is possible to preserve the natural type of wood, and you can simply be unrecognized to change it. In both cases, the products will serve you for many years, but the unprocessed wood quickly loses its qualities. Food processing compositions are divided into four groups: mixtures of varnish and oil, clean oils, water-based synthetic compositions and varnishes. More detailed information You can find about varnish in the section "Paintwork materials" on this site. These groups include almost all decoration Materialsexcept shellac and polish. Shellac is a product of vital activity of insects living in the tropics, and the polish is an alcohol solution of a shellac used to polish the surfaces of the tree.
Some lovers are mistaken, believing that only the mechanized way can be achieved high-quality finishes. Any liquid can be applied manually. For proper application And processing can be obtained very good results. Enough to remember the musical instruments made in vintage times, or antique furniture, and you immediately remember what beautiful view they had. We must know one an important rule: only careful processing does wooden surface Unusually beautiful. The finish is good and very good - these are different concepts. They are distinguished, above all, the time spent on the decoration, and the patience of the master itself.
Many are interested in tools for finishing wood lacquer and oil compositions. Set for polishing and varnishing standard. It includes:
Cleaning napkins from gauze with impregnation to collect dust;
Set of skins (№№320, 400, 500), which will be needed for grinding coating and intermediate layers;
Limestone and pumice powder to handle the surface with oil. Thanks to pex, the surface has a matte tint, and the limestone gives shine;
Wax finishing paste. She attaches water-repellent properties surfaces and serves to guide the gloss;
Wands to stir lacquer in banks so that there is no precipitate;
Rollers from the foam rubber to apply finishing oils and evenly distribute them over the surface;
Brushes with artificial pile to apply water-soluble varnishes;
Brushes with natural pile to apply oil-based varnishes;
Poroolone sponges for applying varnish and oil, except for shellac and polish;
Seamless cotton tampons to apply lacquer at the finish stage of the work;
Mandrels to press rollers and brushes;
Synthetic and steel rutters (zero) to smooth out the surface or shine of the finish layer do more muted.
Clean finishing oils
Pure oils are walnut, linen, tung and mineral oils. They penetrate well in the wood and do not create a rigid film on the surface. With the help of oil, the surface of the scratches will not protect, but it becomes less sensitive. If we are covered with undivided oil, its appearance becomes better: it glitters, the structure acquires expressiveness. It must be remembered that the furniture covered with clean oils delays dust. Owned surface oil over time dull, but if they reveal them the second time, they will take again. The advantage of natural oils is their environmental safety.
For decoration of decorative products as the first layer of the wizard, the olive and linseed oil are sometimes used. But linseed oil compared to the olphoi will dry for a very long time, for several weeks, therefore it is rarely used.
Oil finishes are very easily applied. If the surface is flat, the oil is applied with a foam roller, and if the relief, then the tampon. After the oil is applied, it should be absorbed, and then cotton is unnecessary. Oils are usually applied in several layers: from five and more. The next layer is applied only when the previous suspension. Sometimes joiners oil cover such products as cutting boards or countertops. But in this case, the oil is quite quickly washed with water, and it falls quite often to update.
Mixtures of varnish and oils
A mixture of oil and varnish got the name of the Danish oil. It is diluted with alcohol, sequivations add to it to reduce drying time. After adding a little varnish, you will improve the quality of the finish. If adding to the Danish oil polyurethane finishing mixture in proportion 3: 1, then the quality of the finish will be even better. Remember that the proportion should be accurately observed, it should not be increased, because the mixture will become thick and it will be harder to apply it. For wooden products, the oil-lacquer mixture is suitable, except for those who experience negative influence. For example, they are suitable for coffee and coffee tables, and for kitchen countertops - no.
At least 12 hours will need to dry by each layer of oil / varnish finish. And even better to withstand after applying a bed of a day. With low temperature or high humidity, drying time, respectively, increases.
Currently, most varnishes are manufactured based on synthetic resins. They are characterized by high strength, as well as polyurethane and acrylic. A yacht varnish is widely used, which contains a lot of oil that gives the elasticity of the lacquer film, which is very important for wood, which is subjected to moisturizing. In the composition of the yacht varnish there are inhibitors that create an ultraviolet filter, protecting the tree from the harmful effects of the rays of the sun. So that the varnish is better penetrated into the wood, it is diluted with mineral spirits. As a result, the varnish is liquid, so it is better to apply a tampon. And the number of layers should be greater than when processing wood with undiluted varnishes.
Varnish, which would be well absorbed, you can cook yourself. It is only necessary to a polyurethane lacquer having an oil base, add a slightly colored solvent.
When we applied varnish, you need to carefully monitor so that the film is not very thick, because the excess is impossible to remove.
For the first layer, thick varnish can be used, and for the following layers - more liquid. Thanks to this, the lacquer will dry faster, and the layers will be uniform and thin.
It is necessary to apply lacquer along the fibers, brush, towards the middle of the board to its ends. In the event that a defect will be discovered in a layer of varnish (for example, a pile will adopt), it is later cleaned with a fine-grained skin. When the lacquer dries, he is cleaned with abrasive, and it acquires a matte tint. The re-applied varnish gives shine. When toning a tree, it should not be cleaned earlier than you apply 2-3 layers of varnish. Otherwise, you can wipe tinting with varnish.
Lacquers having a water base
These varnishes in liquid form look insane, sometimes have a color of milk. But it should not be afraid of this, because after drying, they will become transparent. Such varnishes are environmentally friendly and are worthy rivals with oil varnishes. In addition, the frozen water-soluble varnishes have the most high coefficient transparency. In its pure form, these varnishes are completely colorless. Therefore, if you want to keep the original timber color, without any changes, use only water-soluble varnishes. They do not change the color of the veil, nor even the color of white enamel.
Water soluble varnishes are applied to the surface with a synthetic pile with a synthetic pile (better if it is nylon). The lacquer temperature should not exceed 230-300c. Cold Bank with varnish you must first warm in warm water. Dilute these varnishes only with distilled water and only by 10%.
In the absence of the experience of wood finishing, practice first on a piece of blackboard. At the same time, it is desirable that the product you intend to separate, and the board was from the same wood. Take care of patience, and experience will come, and then skill.
Finish finish of products from natural wood
After the completion of the manufacture of products from natural wood, one of the most important stages - Finishing surface finish. There are a large number of ways and methods of finishing finish: coating by veneers, transparent and opaque varnishes, firing open flame, coating ordinary paints, fascination, oil coating, etc. In some cases, a combination of several methods is used. additional processing Against pests and rotting, wood whiten by chemical solutions, they make it "younger" and on the contrary, artificial formation is carried out. To study all the methods at once is simply unreal, and do not need such knowledge for ordinary masters. It is better to "enter into the course of the case" gradually, as needed and as mastery improves. In the article, consider only the most frequently used finishing options, their brief characteristics and methods of application.
Any option of the finish finish suggests that the surface of the tree will be pretto grounded, for the ultimate grinding you need to use skins №100 or more. Try to hide along the fibers, and the last "strokes" need to be made across the fibers. There is another method of high-quality removal of the smallest pile - a squeezed surface wipe with a well-dipped with a cloth or a washcloth and leave for drying. During drying, the entire pile will rise and fixes in a standing position. Carefully obfry him again with a shallow eye. After grinding, thoroughly clean the surfaces from dust and you can proceed to various finish coatings.
Wood finish lacquer
At home can apply polyurethane varnish Or oil-based varnishes - working with them is easily and safe, and the final quality is quite satisfactory. Lucky are transparent and opaque, matte and glossy. You can apply an ordinary tassel or with a pneumatic spray gun. If you are manufacturing wooden crafts Quite often, we advise you to purchase a paintopult, and to use the tassel only for varnishing small surfaces. What are the advantages of the collapse?
- High labor productivity.
- Improved coating quality. The fact is that lacquer particles hit the wooden surface at high speed, due to this, the adhesion composition with wood increases, the formation of "unreliable" sites is excluded.
- Modern pneumatic paintopults have the possibility of numerous adjustments of force, volume and shape of the jet. This makes it possible to achieve significant lacquer savings while improving the quality of the coating.
The coating of the lacquer must be made at least two layers, after drying the first layer it is very desirable to take a shallow sandpaper. The second layer may have an enlarged thickness in comparison with the first.
Whitening of wood
The goal of bleaching is to make the outer surface of wood white, white color Always symbolized the purity of intentions and significance of the furniture owner. Whitening must be made before the wood coating with transparent varnishes. Currently, 20% of hydrogen peroxide is used for bleaching at home; a more professional solution is a hydrogen peroxide + ammonium water + liquid glass. This composition can be treated with a tree only after it was moistened with a solution of caustic soda. After soaking, wood should be washed under running water and dried.
Some masters use "false cry" - simple and pretty effective method Giving wood noble species. For this, a special composition is used: a slightly white paint based on an identical solvent is added to the transparent varnish. As an example, we can cause such a composition: one liter of NC-218 varnish, solvent liter 646 and 0.1 liters of white Paint Nc. All components mix thoroughly and apply in two layers to the prepared surface of the product.
Finish finish with natural oil (lesing and glazing)
One of the oldest methods of wood finish, combines several useful features - The tree not only becomes more beautiful, but also increases its resistance to the effects high humidity. Most often used oil, but it can be completely replaced by ordinary sunflower unrefined. The oil must be heated to T ° + 50 ÷ 60 ° C and in the heated state, mix with the turpentine in equal ratios. This solution covers the wood surface several times, the first time apply the maximum amount of solution to increase the depth of absorption. Some masters are added to the solution oil paint (Professional artists enjoy such paint). The choice of color paint and tone saturation must be determined by the experimental way, and for this you need extensive experience. I do not advise the newcomers to "indulge" with paints, make a clear solution and process them with wooden surfaces.
Surface Surveillance
Also a very ancient method of wood processing, but sometimes applied today. Our grandmothers still remember how parquet floors were stuffed with waxed, however, it was not natural beeswax, and painted paraffin. Natural wax mastic are now being implemented in specialized stores. If you have no opportunity to buy it, you can do it yourself. Natural wax is sold in stores for beekeepers, it must be heated to T ° + 50 ÷ 60 ° C and place in proportion 1: 1 with a turpider. On the surface, the solution must be applied warm, you should not do too thick layer of wax. After complete drying, the surface of the product needs to polish the soft cloth or felt. If necessary, the operation can be repeated, but, as a rule, enough and single processing.
Open fire processing
The surfaces of the tree are charred by open fire, depending on the degree of charging, the wood changes its color from yellow to dark brown and black. As a result of thermal processing, the appearance of the surface is improved, the structure of the tree is better visible. After firing, the surface can be coated with transparent varnishes by ordinary ways.
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