In this article: the story of straw housekeeping; straw houses, age more than 80 years; Straw block - characteristics; Choosing straw and straw blocks for building a house; How to build a house from straw - stages of work; straw house and necessary tools; stucco for straw walls; Build a straw house - accept fire-fighting measures.
- Home straw do it yourself
- In completion
Straw as building material - history
As a building material, the straw is used since ancient times - the population of Africa builds houses from it for thousands of years, straw roofs and straw insulation of the attic was greatly popular in Europe, Russia and Ukraine in the XIX century. More than 150 years ago, a new construction of straw houses appeared - a wooden frame, a glass of roofing and walls filled with blocks from pressed straw. European settlers are actively developing the territory of North America faced the lack of wood at the plain territories of the state of Nebraska and found themselves before the need to live in a turde-covered earthlocks. Especially unlucky settlers who founded Sandhills's town - local soils were so scarce that it was impossible to remove from them to DRIN without serious consequences for cattle breeding. Local farmers have found another output and began to build frameless houses from a compressed in bales of straw, faulting created by the walls with a lime-lime solution with a sexy (mealkin) mixed in it. The increased need for straw blocks led to the invention of mechanical stationary presses in 1850 and mobile balers for collecting straw moving through the horses field in 1872, and a few years later, press feeders on the steam rod.
In 1925, in France, the panels formed by the staves were in parallel with stems were invented in parallel to each other and covered on top of cement-clay plaster. Popularity in Europe This wall material did not find this wall, but in the period from 1936 to 1949, several houses from the stravenous cement panels were still built, but only in Australia - local industrialists tried to save on construction materials due to the remoteness of the continent from the rest of the civilized world, And our own resources did not possess the country. Noteworthy fact - several Australian houses built from plastered straw panels in the middle of the last century, are perfectly preserved to this day. By the way, in the late 90s, with the demolition of one such house in the town of Alton, the workers unexpectedly had difficulty - they could not manually dismantle the walls, they had to call the special equipment. In the 80s, straw housekeeping was again popular, mainly due to a unique combination of heat holder, strength and environmental characteristics of straw blocks. For 30 years in Europe, the USA, Australia and China, more than 110,000 straw houses have been built. From the mid-1990s, several straw houses were built in Russia, Ukraine and Belarus. Characteristics of straw blocks
By and large, the straw is a side and low-value product of agriculture - it is possible to feed your cattle only after the heat treatment and the introduction of additives that increase nutritional characteristics, the roof is not closed for a long time, but it is suitable only for soil mulch. Given that cereal cultures are cultivated on the territory of Russia almost everywhere, there is no lack of this building material - the construction of walls for a house of 70 m2 will require straw remaining after the crop of cereals with 2-4 hectares. Meanwhile, most of the straw remaining after harvesting is usually burned. What is a straw block? It is a tightly pressed bale, which has a rectangular shape and consisting of dried stems of cereals, of which the grain is completely extracted. The overall dimensions of the straw blocks can be different, the following are most suitable for construction: width 500 mm; height 400 mm; Length 500-1200 mm. The weight of the half-meter length unit at a density of 120 kg / m3 is about 22-23 kg.
Flavoring straw. Indeed, dry stems of any plant are perfectly burning, but in a pressed state, they set fire to them quite difficult due to the low content of air inside such a block. For example, the sheets of paper are also well lit, but if you try to set fire to the folded pack of such sheets, it will be possible only to charging them along the edges - the same thing happens with a compressed straw block, despite the high combustion category G4. Since the wall, assembled from straw bales, is completely covered with a clay or clay-cement plaster with a thickness of at least 30 mm, the threat of its ignition is much lower than that of the walls of the wooden cut. Low price and availability of material. Blocks can be formed from wheat straw, rye, flax, rice, as well as from the hay. The cost of the straw block is ten times lower than that of the brick. Low thermal conductivity - 0.050-0.065. Straw carries heat worse than a tree (0.09-0.18) and brick (0.56-0.70). The thermal conductivity of the compressed straw is even greater if the blocks are formed only from longitudinally oriented stems with respect to the future wall. The power consumption of the straw house is about 40 kWh ∙ h / m2 per year, not particularly coming even in the conditions of low temperatures of the Russian climate. Reducing construction terms and work. The assembly of walls of straw blocks is performed quickly, without any masonry solution, does not require the involvement of specialists and construction equipment. Under the straw house is quite lightweight foundation, usually columnar. 
Finally, it is impossible to challenge the environmental characteristics of straw - natural material that is not processed by chemicals in the construction process, since there is no particular need. The disadvantages of the straw walls are insects and mice in them, while increasing the moisture of straw more than 18-20% in it beginnings, crushing processes that destroy the straw blocks. It is possible to solve both problems at the same time by pressing the blocks to a density of 250-300 kg / m3 - taking into account the thick layer of the plastering to penetrate into such a dense wall with rodents and insect is extremely difficult, and with an increase in density, the block of straw will be worse than absorb moisture. It should be noted that increasing the density of the blocks will increase their weight in two or three times, which will create some difficulties when building a wall. To combat insects, it is necessary when laying the blocks to suspend their hazed lime and use lime when compiling a plaster mix. Home straw do it yourself
Wall fences at home are performed from straw bales formed by a press pick-up and lined with polypropylene cord - you need to carefully choose them. The binding of natural fiber or steel wire, sometimes used when creating bales in agriculture, is not suitable for construction purposes - wire rust, and natural fibers are fragile and susceptible to rotting. In some agricultural straw enterprises, the straw is collected by rolled balers, straw rolls, in principle, can be rolled and overlooked by a bale picker, but it is better not to do it - the straw will grow strongly, which will affect its thermophysical characteristics.
What straw is better? Rye or rice, and the Solve of winter rye will suit most, because Her stem is tight, above and, moreover, wintering rye is cleaned earlier than other grain crops. For the construction of the house, only dry, not containing seeds and non-excised straw - should not form bales from wet straw, it is necessary to pre-dry it. How to estimate the characteristics of the straw block? Dry bale length no more than meter and density not higher than 120 kg / m3 can be raised by hand - it is not particularly difficult. To check the moisture inside of it, you need to shove your fingers inside, then remove and bring to the nose - when immersed in the straw fingers, moisture should not be felt, with their tray, there should be no smell of rot. Remove several straw stems from bale and bend them - brittle stems mean old and lying straw, it will not work for construction. Qualitatively compressed bales are practically not deformed if they raise them for the strapping, it is difficult to cover two fingers under the strain cord, the blocks have similar dimensions. Like any other building, a straw house is necessary, though lightweight, but still the foundation. Its type is determined depending on the characteristics of the soils at the construction site. To ensure the heat insulation of the foundation and reducing the energy flow of the building in the future, they will need polystyrene sheets with a thickness of 100 mm - they are stacked from the outside of the foundation and plunge into the ground below the depth of its freezing. 
It is important that the floor level in the house is lower than the position of the first row of straw bales - in the case of water supply leaks with a wall with a straw filler, it is guaranteed not wet. Next, we are determined with the type of house design - you can build a building using a frame and without it. In the frameless house, the walls of the straw blocks perform a carrying function, so it is more convenient to use bales with a density of not lower than 200 kg / m3. In addition, the frameless straw house can only be one-storey, with the length of the walls not more than 8 meters, and the area of \u200b\u200bopenings under the windows and the door should be less than 50% of the wall area in which they are completed. The house with straw bearing walls needs a lightweight roof design - the fourth-tie design of the roof will be optimal, the rafters of which are set onto a wooden mauelalate of two boards, laid on top of the wall and interconnected crossbars in one meter increments. On the pre-plastered end of the wall before installing the Maurolata, the rubberoid is stacked. Svet roofing cornice over the wall - more than 600 mm. The advantage of a frameless house of straw is in its low cost and simplicity of construction. 
A wooden or metal frame for a two-storey or having a large area of \u200b\u200bthe straw house is created similarly to the frame of the panel houses. You can build a two-row frame and laying bales from the hay between the two carrier pillars. Fill the wall areas between the frame racks with straw blocks is easier than to output the frameless walls - focus on them, especially since the sequence of operations is largely coincided. 
During the construction of a frameless or frame house, the bandage between the blocks is carried out by wooden stakes or metal rods (diameter 40-60 mm), driven vertically to the bales of straw, laid in a chess order (without matching seams), the higher the walls of the wall are raised , the longer stakes are necessary. The attachment of bales is carried out with each other after laying the fourth row. Also, metal bars are witched into the building base in a step of 1000 mm - their length should be sufficient to pierce the blocks of the first and second row. In case of frame construction, bales of straw are tied with carrier pillars with the help of horizontal metal pins, and pins, fixing blocks in their places, can be closed in the foundation and remove under Mauerlat, having risen the compressed straw on them and clamping the Maurolalat with a threaded connection. Neighboring walls during frameless construction are connected to a row to a row with two pins 30 mm diameter, curved U-shaped. It is necessary to perform such a fastening both in the external and in the inner line of the wall pairing - at least two curved pins in each row. 
Prior to the start of work on the construction of straw walls, you will need to make two non-slip fixtures: press for crimping and dressing blocks in front of cutting; Several pointed metal hooks for transporting straw bales. The press consists of a riveted in the ground and a securely fixed post of a height of about a meter on which a wooden bar lever is moving. At the end of the lever, small grooves are peeping, a cape rope is fixed in the shape of a loop. The straw block is placed under this improvised press, clamping with a leg, headed into the loop and dragged into a plastic cord in a new place. The assembly of the walls of the hay blocks is performed from the location of the openings and from the corners to the center of the wall. Under the first row bales, it is necessary to lay a fine polymer grid as an additional protection against penetration into the walls of rodents, between blocks of a density of less than 200 kg / m3, kraft paper or cardboard is laid in the formation of each tier - it will prevent convective heat exchange inside the wall. In the process of laying a row to the house of the frameless design, it is not necessary to drive blocks to its places with significant effort - wooden guide limiters can shift, pre-exhibited along the edges of the walls. Align the blocks in the ranks in terms of the level of the twine, stretched between the guides, with the help of a board of sufficient sizes and sweaty hammer. The walls derived under the roofing design should not only be fixed with pins, but also to pull the plastic ribbons in increasing one meter - wrapped the metal pin behind the protruding from the foundation, riding and pulling around the wooden Mauerlala on the wall of the wall. Metal tape for strapping walls will not suit, because Cuts hands and pretty tough - it's hard to pull. 
Vertical and horizontal boards, forming a box, fixed by temporary wooden crossing, are exhibited in openings under the door and windows, which are fixed by temporary wooden crossing. The lower and the upper boards of the box are removed beyond its borders - up to half of the adjacent straw blocks. By the construction of the walls of the window of window and doorways, pinned in bales - in the vertical boards, the pins are driven inside the opening, horizontal, located on top and bottom of the opening, are attached out. Before fastening the opening of the opening, it is necessary to packeroid under the boards under the boards or only to put a plastic or metal reinforcement grid over it with an output of the opening by 300 mm and fasten it with 35 mM galvanized nails or 35 mm building brackets with a stapler. The reinforcement will strengthen the straw blocks and will prevent the formation of the slots between the wall and the opening of the opening. If the blocks have a density below 200 kg / m3, then nails and brackets to hold them in them will not - in this case, the reinforcing mesh is fastened with a caproove thread or a steel knitting wire, penetrated through the straw through. To flash the straw block thread, a homemade needle is needed - 10 mm Metal rod, split and sharpened on one side, bent into the M-shaped handle on the other. A hole is drilled in the plurality - in it, as well as a regular sewing needle, thread or wire. 
After assembling the walls, it is necessary to end them in those areas where blocks are particularly acting - for this operation and chainsaw will need for cutting blocks during the stacking. Before the next stage - applying plasters - Wired communications in the Cable Channel made of self-turning polyvinyl chloride are found in the wall. Pipes of water supply, heating and sewage in the straw wall are not placed, because Crop the condensation of moisture and rotting. The final stage of work on the creation of straw walls is the application of two layers of plaster. Nuance - If the blocks are used with a density of 200 kg / m3 and higher, then plastering can be placed immediately on the construction of walls. In the case of less dense blocks, it is necessary to wait two or three weeks until the straw falls on and self-advital. It is impossible to use cement plaster, it will interfere with the passage through the wall of air saturated by couples, speaking easier - it hurts the wall "breathe." Suitable solutions of plaster on a clay-lime and cement-lime-based basis, having an average fatty. 
The proportions of the clay-lime solution: the Clay dough (clay mixed in water) - 1 part; Dough lime - 0.4 parts; Small grade sand - 3-4 parts. The proportions of the cement-lime solution: cement - 1 part; fine grained sand - 3-4 parts; Lime milk (limestone dough mixed with water to milk consistency). Safety cement and sand are stirred in a dry form, then lime milk is added to the container with a mixture until the mixture of the required consistency is obtained. For reinforcing the straw wall with its external and inner side, a metal or plastic mesh is needed, with a cell not more than 30 mm. The first layer of plaster must be thick - about 25-40 mm, aligning the second layer - 2-3 mm, it is performed by a sour cream-like plastering solution. After the plaster dries, the walls can be painted with dispersed paints - oil paints will not fit, because Perform a barrier in the air exchange walls. Straw walls need to plaster - attempts to avoid this, closing the straw bales with plasterboard, plastic or brick will create optimal conditions for rodents and insects, because Between the straw wall and facing will be enough space for their livelihoods. In addition, panel and brick facing of non-speaking walls increases their flammability due to all the same gaps. And yet - one should not use vapor barrier of the straw walls, it will lead to straw. 
Important: In the process of construction work on the construction of a straw house, the following fire safety rules should be observed! During the styling of the walls, to the complete closure of their plaster and complete purification of the perimeter from the scattered straw, it is strictly forbidden to smoke on the construction site, to produce welding and other types of work with heating to high temperatures, using open flames and accompanied by sparks. Not compressed straw is easily flammable, with the slightest sparks to fire it is quite enough - it is impossible to joke with it! During the construction of the straw house, the construction site should be equipped with fire extinguishing with water barrels, charged and good fire extinguishers, barrams. If the fire still happened, you need to quickly place the walls by the bats and pour the smoldering blocks with water - it is important to prevent the fire frame of the wooden frame (in the case of a frame straw house), because New straw blocks will cost much cheaper than a new framework. In completion
The straw housekeeping is undoubtedly large prospects - in aggregate with Ecodom technologies, cheap, consuming the minimum amount of thermal energy in the cold season and self-conditioning air from the straw at home can give their owners more than just environmentally friendly accommodation. Abdjuzhanov Rustam, RMNT.ruUnlike producers of modern finishing mixtures, clay plaster is indeed an environmentally friendly building material. It has indisputable advantages, and its technical and performance characteristics are quite sufficient to solve most tasks in construction.
This, and the varieties of compositions, and the correct technology of application will be discussed in this article.
Advantages and disadvantages
Most often, such plaster is used to finish samanny (global) and wooden walls. There are certain advantages and disadvantages of the clay plaster of the brusade house, a cut or a structure of a rounded log.
Plastering of wooden walls inside the house of clay, photo of a living room with a fireplace
Advantages:
- Cheapness;
- Absolute environment for the environment and for humans;
- The ability to quickly and safe disposal or reuse;
- Parry permeable material capable of adjusting moisture in the room;
- The non-combustible, when heated to critical temperatures, carcinogenic or poisoning substances does not emit.
Disadvantages:
- Requires experience and accuracy in the finish;
- Sensitive to humidity;
- It is necessary for the reinforcement of walls with a metal grid or drank.
Traditional and modern formulations
One of the oldest recipes for the preparation of a clay solution for plaster walls has the following proportions:
- Clay 10 pieces;
- Sand 5-8 parts;
- Straw 5-10 beauties.
Such a large sand scatter arises because clay in different regions has a different fat content. The fatty clay, the better it is plasticity and higher adhesive abilities. The fat content of clay for plaster walls is simple. A small lump smear in the water and the ball with a diameter of 50 cm is painted from it. The material must be good, but do not stick to the hands. Then the ball is squeezed in the middle, if it turned into a neat pancake, then such a material is fat and suitable for clay plaster, and if it cracks on the edges, then such material is not suitable for the decoration of the walls.
Refractory composition
There are numerous finished refractory compositions on sale with the addition of lime, gypsum or cement binder. However, for plaster stoves, it is enough to use chamotte clay, and as a reinforcement fiberglass. Previously used asbestos fiber, but it is too harmful to humans.
Finish furnace with clay plaster, composition with chammed clay
Moisture-resistant compounds
Clay plaster with the addition of a small amount of cement, in proportion 1 part of the cement to 7 parts of the clay-sand mixture, it obtains a sufficiently high resistance to humidity. At the same time, it can absorb up to 60% moisture from the atmosphere, which positively affects the bathroom microclimate.
Bathroom finish
Warming formulations
The traditional Material for the insulation of plaster Konsky Kizyak is now quite deficient, therefore plastering of a wooden house inside clay for insulation is made by composition with sawdust, which are mixed in a standard mixture, but without adding straw. The plaster of a wooden clay house with sawdust is made exclusively indoors.
Applying plaster
The main way to avoid cracks during plaster with a clay solution is to use reinforcement with a metal wire or carry out the walls. In addition, the ratio of ingredients towards the reinforcing substances of natural or artificial origin changes slightly. Add more straw and less sand. Such a bowl of plaster is intermediate, as it has a not too neat appearance.
A solution with a large amount of straw avoids cracks
Video process of plastering clay walls of the house from Samana (Samana):
3.2 Straw and plaster - perfect combination. Internal and outdoor
Why straw, not Minvat, Equata, Polystyolster, Polinor, Hollofiber, Flaksan or any other type of insulation?- Frequently asked question. Compared to other insulation, straw has one "disadvantage" - it needs to be plastering. In quotes, because, it's how to see. Let's see.
The plaster is considered a lack of those who want to save on the construction of a skeleton house, replacing the minvatu cheap straw. Why stucked, if you can also sew the walls of the CSP or OSP and rejoice in the "saved" time and money? Usually unfair "Eco-builders", which either do not understand the role of plaster, or on purpose deceive themselves and customers. Our advice: If you do not want to plaster, do not contact straw! It is better not to do quite what to do bad.
For us, plaster is indisputable advantage and superiority of straw in front of other insulation!
We will not now consider the types and compositions of plaster, the ways to be applied, etc. Let's talk only about its properties and roles in a bundle with straw.
Outdoor plaster layer - 2-3cm
Winter assembly and home bumping
in the Moscow region
This layer carries many functions:
1. Windproof.
Without high-quality wind protection, the insulation will not work (any). The task of any insulation is to detain the movement of the air inside itself, delay convection, heat transfer. If there is no windproof - the wind will walk inside the insulation and blow the warm air out of it. When there is no wind, the straw will keep warm, in windy weather - no.
2. Protection against fire.
This is the main advantage of straw - it can be seen by creating a flame retardant shell for home. Outdoor plaster covers the whole house, protecting not only a straw, but also a frame from the effects of fire. No sander does not boast of this, the more dome. After all, it doesn't matter how non-combustible insulation itself, if the wooden framework elements are not protected - the whole house is not protected. Also limestone plaster is excellent wood processing, the framework under such protection will last much longer without any chemical treatments.
Outdoor stucco layer
3. Protection against rodents, insects.
There is a lot of concern that livestock settles in the straw. Yes, it will definitely settle, if you do not schobat the wall. Plaster does not create spaces with each other and straw as a CSP covering or other material. In the very straw, the mouse does not live because of a big density (this is a fact), but in the space between the trim and straw - perfectly feel and will definitely settle, whether rye or wheat straw - without a difference. Only the plaster protects the walls from animals: mice, flies, ants, spiders, etc., which, by the way and in the Ministry of Internal Affairs, willingly live and multiply, just in straw, as they say - God himself ordered))) Nature to nature stretches .. .
Internal plaster layer- 5-7cm
This layer carries the following functions:
1. Protection against fire and rodents - Similar to outdoor plaster.
2. Steam barrier (conditional).
The thick plaster layer does not let moisture into the insulation, as a result of the straw always remains in a dry state, natural humidity, and condensate is not formed in the "dew point". Straw does not wet, does not reduce its heat engineering properties, does not rot, the mold does not start. In addition, clay or limestone plaster protects the wooden framework elements, extending the house life.
Example of artistic interior decoration
Clay stucco
4. Finish. Standard finishing of all dome skeners - lining, or painted OSP. The stucco creates comfort, gives the will of fantasy, uniqueness of the interior. This is no longer built, it's a house! House for life!
We try our articles to write in a free style, an affordable language, so it turns out a lot of writing, not everyone can master. And yet we write for those who want to understand the question and make the right conscious choice in favor of the dome house from the straw panels. We sincerely believe that it is the perfect option!
Straw dome for conscious people!
The clay plaster, the composition of which is simple and literally lies with us under your feet, is increasingly found on construction sites as a facing material for internal and external finishes. It is known that she was the main material from the masters many more centuries ago, why are we going back to this experience again?
Plaster clay walls - what is this process?
Returning to the ancient traditions of construction is not accidental. Modern mixtures for finishing houses practically do not exist without chemistry, which in time causes harm to the body. The cheaper the composition, the more harmful. Expensive plasters are not available, and less chemicals they do not become. Clay consumer interested is primarily its environmental cleanliness, because the ancient masters did not have a chemical industry.
Yes, and not even such a long-standing rustic buildings, where this material is used, it is still functioning until now, it means that the clay does not appear in a couple of years, but behaves like a full durable natural finish, not only not harmful, but even useful for a person. The plaster of clay walls is cheap, and for particularly leaving there is a possibility not to spend on the components of any penny, but to dig them yourself on the nearest career, river or even at home. After all the mixture requires only clay and fine sand. But this is an occupation for extremals, because the depth of the nice clay is about 1.5 m, and it will be required not so little.
Even if you buy ready-made mixes, they are rather cheap. Only follows when choosing to pay attention to the place of production, because clay is a good adsorbent of harmful, and sometimes radioactive contaminants. There are no problems with the color of plaster, because the natural clay can be a few shades, about representing the entire palette from red-red to blue, and it depends on the place and depth of production. Dyes, although natural, are rarely added, and natural fillers can be used for the texture effect, for example, straw.
Clay stucco - Composition and properties
In addition to low-cost and environmental friendliness, this has a number of advantages. Therefore, before briefing, how to plaster clay, consider what we win, and what we lose. The layer that you get on your walls is very not soon to decline, which is marked by numerous cracks, because the clay is very elastic, and gives it a plaster mixture. Its appearance will always be presentable and original as the material natural it is not afraid of moisture, temperature jumps, wind and even temperate earthquakes. Its density creates the effect of preservation of the room, not passing harmful substances, for example, exhausts from the street, it is believed that even electromagnetic radiation is delayed to some extent with such walls.
In a decade, the first crack may appear, but the restoration is almost instantly, and it is hardly necessary to overlap the whole wall, it is enough to fake a problem place. The layer of clay plaster is well breathing, misses moisture and steam, the microclimate in the room will be almost perfect of all possible options. And unwanted guests in the house can not be expected, various types of bugs simply will not be able to spray strong connections of natural clay. You can attribute the hypoallergenicity of this material, as well as the purity of not only the layer on the walls, but also the construction process itself. Waste harmful is not formed, because everything is taken from nature, and it is not enough to return the surplus.
It will not be unfair to indicate and some difficulties that will have to face. If you are doing it for the first time, you will have to feel all the capriciousness of the clay plaster, because it is not so easy to cook it, because the recipe does not exist, readiness is assessed by the practical method. We will try to help you master it, but in the presence of an experienced master it is better to take it to help. By the way, it is also not easy to find such a person, because the clay is not so popular yet, and earlier it was not at all taken into account, few people can really work well with her. The process of plaster is quite long, you will have to wait for every layer to get drying, and if you make an external finish with this material, the restoration will be required almost every year. Stucco, although it does not touch, but it will be crap often.
How to plaster clay - work sequence
Let us begin to describe the work itself, because the nuances here are many, so we will not be distracted on the theory anymore.
How to plaster clay - step-by-step scheme
Step 1: Preparation of the foundation
Plastering from clay has a lot of weight, so adhesion should be very high. To do this, it is advisable to have tangible roughness on the wall, and it is better to build a duncan (wooden grille). If the walls are brick, then clean the surface from any residues of the previous finish and enclose the seams. Then the clay will fall confidently and for a long time. The wooden house will definitely have to be with dunnoga, making scubons on the logs - the case is ungrateful. It is not necessary to use from metal, since the clay is unlikely to be able to twist in it, it is too dense.
Step 2: Preparation of the mixture
A clean glove blend with sand is used for finishing plaster, as it is very cold. Clay should be pre-mocking in water 2-3 hours, then some more water is added and it is carefully preventing that a homogeneous mass is turned out. Then sand snapped into the container, the composition is rejuvenated again. But the proportions need to be selected by an experimental way, they will depend on the source fatness of clay. It is checked in several ways, but the fastest and not requiring an ideal charmer is the ball method.
To begin with, achieve such a state so that the mixture does not stick to hand, this is done with the help of a gradual addition of water. Then we take a dimensioner and sculpt the ball of 2 cm in size. It is necessary to put it on a solid surface and flatten, only not to a thin pancake, and before an impudent plump. Now pay attention to the edges, if there are cracks formed, the solution is default, it is still required, if there are no cracks, then you guessed with proportions and you can start work. On average, the sand for the solution is required 50-80%.
The main solution of plaster is prepared with additives, it can be sawdust, straw, needles. Such a solution is tightly held, i.e. Fillers give the reinforcing effect and better keep warm. The most "warm" is a purely clay solution with the same additives, but it is not plastic and will surely require the finish finish, as the cracks will not make themselves waiting.
Step 3: Applying Plasters
The first layer is attached by non-accratulative lumps, and in order to better stick to the surface, you need to do some efforts, i.e. Press the closure, and not spat with a spatula, as it is done with other plaster. If this layer is the only one, then it is necessary to dissolve it perfectly, if not, then it is enough to rudely bring the surface to one level. You need to give a layer to dry, go to it a little more than a month in summer, and in winter and all three.
The next layer is then applied, usually "cold", see it above. The thickness is small. It is also possible to use a rapid solution where cement is added to clay with sand. In this case, the ratio of clay-cement sand is 1: 1: 3. Now the surface must be smooth. And this layer must dry, give him a few weeks. Do not try to speed up the process, forced drying will spoil the coating immediately. Further the wall can be decorated, painted or left in natural color. If some finish is still conceived, then a number of additional preparatory work should be carried out, for example, primer.
Some builders Plastering straw walls Without a strengthening basis. It is possible where "sticky" plaster with the addition of clay is used as a fastening solution. With less sticky plaster (based on cement), a metal mesh is usually used, especially those who are prone to damage to the places of corners and around the windows. (Figure 1 ).
As an environmental reinforcement of plaster, reed meshs or thin wooden bands can be used (approximately 1x3cmx2m), nailed vertically or a cross diagonally each 3-4 cm. To vertical (5x5 cm), uniformly distributed wooden stripes ("duranka"). These vertical The strips are embedded into the surface of the blocks (such furrows can be made with an acute end of the hammer) and firmly attached to the inner racks or the tops of each subsequent row of blocks (Fig. 2) are fastened with the "straw needle".
Separation of walls and ceilings.
When filling the joints of walls and ceilings, a wooden lattice system is used, described above or a metal grid attached from both sides to the frame (Fig. 4). "Free straw" is gently stuck in places between the grids, and then plastered.
The plastered ceilings have good fireproof the attic, isolated with straw blocks. It is most common in this situation to use a metal mesh, although you can do without it.
Plastering.
Watching can be done manually or with the help of a plastering station. The straw is made of straws allow you to apply most plastering techniques. The installation of the plastering solution can be performed in different ways - to be smeared or typing with various tools. Magnification is easily performed, but applicable only when using thick solutions. Package is much more complicated.
Osturbation Based on the cement-the most famous, but not such an impossible in use as lime, gypsum and other software-containing "mud" techniques.
For the manufacture of cement-based plaster usually use the following components:
One part of Portland cement;
One part of the hazed lime;
Eight pieces of pure, sifted sand.
80% of pure oxa from the total volume of all components is added to the container. Sands and lime are added. In the course of one minute everything is mixed. The cement is added, water as needed. It is mixed for 10 minutes to create a good, sticky mass.
The application of plaster occurs in 2-3 layers (in the final layer, the amount of sand is reduced to 6 parts). After the end of the work should be supported by the moisture of cement plaster for several days. This will increase its strength.
The clay-containing "mud" plaster is made of proven clay with a sufficient number of sifted sand. For the prevention of cracking, this mixture is mixed with straw in a ratio of 3-5 parts of sand to one piece of clay.