It is no secret that wood surfaces treated with varnish or paint have a significant disadvantage - they become cold and lifeless. If you intend to preserve the beauty of texture, warmth and energy, we recommend that you pay attention to such a material for processing wood as drying oil.
Compositions for wood - drying oil can be different
Drying oils can act as an independent protective and decorative coating wood, or as a primer before painting or filling, as a component for the preparation of paint compositions.
The existing lineups can be divided into the following groups:
Wood processing with natural linseed oil - application features
Most often, flaxseed, hemp and sunflower drying oils are found on the market. Natural linseed oil has a light transparent color. It is used for priming wooden, plastered and metal surfaces, as well as in the preparation of putties for wood, pastes and for diluting light colors. The use of natural compounds is allowed indoors. How long does natural linseed oil dry on wood? At a temperature of at least 20 ° C - about 24 hours.
Hemp linseed oil has a pronounced dark color. The scope of application of the composition is all the same as for linseed. But this liquid is only used to dilute dark thick-grated paints. Compared to the previous representatives of the group, the sunflower impregnation dries up more slowly - after a day, a dry liquid will still be felt on the surface. Its peculiarity is high elasticity, but in terms of hardness, strength and water resistance it loses to hemp and linseed oil.
Natural compounds are great for treating wood surfaces various instruments... Hunters love to saturate their rifle stocks with them - after that the product is very soft and warm in the hand, it is pleasant to touch it with the cheek. However, for impregnation floor coverings this group is not suitable, since the film that natural compounds create does not have high strength.
Semi-natural, combined, synthetic - areas of application of drying oils
Semi-natural drying oils are generally light brown in color. The resulting film on a wooden surface is notable for its hardness and good gloss, as well as a fairly high water resistance. Basically, semi-natural formulations are used in combination with other paints and varnishes or as a primer. Like natural drying oils, semi-natural oils do not have sufficient strength for processing floor coverings.
Manufacturers add modifiers to combined formulations that improve their qualities necessary for the production and dilution of thick-bodied paints. Also combined drying oils used for priming wooden surfaces before plastering or painting.
Do not forget that the liquid dries for at least a day - it is not recommended to apply a layer of paint or plaster until it is completely dry.
Synthetic compounds are used not so much for impregnation, but as a basis for diluting dark oil paints for painting works outside, as well as for priming metal, concrete and plaster surfaces. Synthetic drying oil is also used for the preparation of all kinds of putties and pastes.
What is drying oil - we impregnate wood
It should be noted that drying oil is in demand among amateurs natural materialswhich are absolutely safe for human health. However, in terms of other parameters (strength, penetration depth, durability), compositions based on natural oils have long been inferior to impregnations based on alkyd resins with fungicides and other modifiers.
Natural impregnation is most often used in the care of wooden products, which periodically, one way or another, need to be cleaned and polished. For example, it can be carpentry tools. Also drying oils from natural oils show themselves well in internal worksah - treated wood surfaces look very good, continue to breathe and scent the air. But for outdoor work, it is better to use more modern, resistant to temperature extremes, moisture and pests.
When working with wood and many others porous surfacesOne of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer or for other reasons. But those of you who have come across this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until this very drying is complete.
Overheated and specially oxidized vegetable oil acts as a base for olive. At the same time, various desiccants, solvents and other components characteristic of paints and varnishes.
The main task of drying oil is to form on the surface of the wood protective layer to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, mildew, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to lie more evenly and better, as well as reducing the consumption of this very paint.
Do not forget that the wood covered with drying oil is very beautiful, so this paintwork also used for decorative purposes.
Types of drying oil
The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:
- Natural;
- Semi-natural;
- Synthetic;
- Combined.
Natural linseed oil, unlike its synthetic "counterparts", is not fire hazardous, since there are almost no solvents in it. However, the drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries in linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower by this moment will be still sticky
Semi-natural linseed oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for covering wood, but also for diluting paints and varnishes. However, the semi-natural option is not used to cover the floor. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.
Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by the oxidation of shale oil followed by dissolution in xiol. Unlike all others, it does not apply to processing household surfaces... Requires room ventilation. Its scope includes priming concrete, metal, dilution of paints and varnishes, preparation of plaster and mastic. Drying time is usually over 24 hours
Combined drying oil dries for about a day. It is obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. Not used for surface coating - used in paint production.
How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard
Unlike paint, which dries after evaporation of the solvent, drying oil dries in the process of oxidation, that is, by binding with oxygen.
Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In fact, you almost always have to wait, and there are not many ways to speed up the process. One of them is the use of a heat gun. The thing is that the drying process of drying oil is accelerated under conditions of increased temperature and low humidity... And the fan heater does this job very well. By the way, it was previously practiced to apply hot drying oil just to increase the drying speed.
Another way is to use a desiccant. Red lead is ideal. Read the instructions carefully before use.
How to know that the drying oil is completely dry, and what to do if it does not dry
The main sign that this material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases drying oil does not dry out even in 10 days. Most likely, the reason is marriage. It is not worth waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply absorbed into the wood, a plane may be required.
Now many people want to protect themselves from unnecessary chemicals. This also applies to wooden products. Drying oil in this regard is a unique material! The origin of the name "natural drying oil" speaks for itself. Up to 95% of the composition can contain natural components of flax seeds, hemp, rape, which is a very high indicator in the production of paints and varnishes.
The remaining 5% are synthetic compounds, but their specific gravity so small that negative impact practically does not occur on the human body. The lower the percentage of synthetic chemistry in the drying oil, the longer the wooden thing will serve you.
When choosing, pay attention to the composition and choose the product with the maximum percentage natural ingredients, this is the key to enhancing the properties of drying oil in the protection of wood.
Main purpose
Given the characteristics of the material, it should be noted what drying oil is needed for:
- base for painting external structures;
- impregnation internal structures (wall and ceiling paneling, flooring).
After processing, it is necessary to allow time for the coating to saturate the inner layers of the wood tissue. Drying times may vary, but wait until completely dry. Further wood covering at the request of the user is left in this form, or any oil paint.
The interaction of drying oil and oil paint will only strengthen the protective layer of the tree. And also, the more drying oil is used, the less paint consumption, isn't it a plus?
You should not sit on the ceiling of the fence if you have just painted it, in the hope that the impregnation is completely natural products, and it will be absorbed in 5 seconds. Wood processing indoors is just as important as outside. Changes in temperature, air humidity - all this does not affect the tree in the best way.
Lining and floors can be treated with linseed oil. However, do not forget that the composition must be absorbed until it dries completely, therefore it is strictly forbidden to enter the treated premises.
Remember that the main difference between internal and external processing is the lack of fresh air. If for outdoor areas the sun and wind act as natural "dryers", then for internal processing it will be required maximum feed fresh air. This is necessary so that the surface in the room dries well in the shortest possible time, and unpleasant odorsthat even have natural remedies, weathered.
In addition to wood, drying oil and oxol are excellent for painting and preparing metals (at the priming stage). And drying oil can also be added to plaster - a kind of universal assistant to the builder.
The choice of drying oil
How to choose the drying oil correctly? You cannot be guided only by the rule that the higher the level of naturalness, the better. There are the following types of drying oil:
- Natural - the higher the percentage of natural substances in the composition, the higher the cost of the material and its quality. If a product with a 45% composition of vegetable oils can be used for exterior painting, then drying oil with an oil content of 70% and above can be used for interior work. In any case, the impregnated surface will be protected.
- Combined - material as close as possible to the source. In its composition, as a rule, a natural base and white spirit (solvent) are mixed, which occupies the structure of drying oil by 1/3. Such a complex is used for external use - the effect of the solvent on the body is practically not noticeable, and drying is faster.
- Drying oil "Oksol" - middle class of the product. The impregnation is made from 55% natural oils and is used both indoors and outdoors. Oksol is an excellent assistant in drying oil small parts.
- Composite is the most cheap option impregnation. It consists almost 100% of synthetic substances, has a strong pronounced odor. It is strictly forbidden to use drying oil on the floor and other wooden surfaces in living quarters, no matter how ventilated they are.
Having oil in its composition, drying oil will be an excellent base for paint. AND it comes not about applying a layer of paint on a dried layer of drying oil. Varnish based paint - combines the properties of both substances and does not require varnish.
MA-25 - this is the name of the paint for the treatment of external surfaces, which is made from a combined drying oil.
In the video: how to cook natural drying oil yourself.
Application method
In order to properly process a wooden surface, you do not need to finish painting courses, but you still need to follow the basic principles of working with painting:
- Before using drying oil or oxol, the wooden surface is cleaned of dust, grease and thoroughly dried. Application to wet material is extremely ineffective.
- Too thick a solution, if desired, can be diluted with a solvent or nefras. Paints are used only after thorough mixing. No matter how fresh the can is, stirring gives the drying oil structure oxygen saturation and re-absorption of the released oils.
- To cover the tree with linseed oil, either a roller or a brush is used. Small details are painted with small brushes.
- Drying oil for wood and oxol with maximum natural composition dry for about 24 hours. Since multiple layers need to be used for greater effect, it is important to understand that it will take a few days to get the detail right. Synthetic drying oil dries in much less time.
When working with drying oil, it is important to protect the surface of the hands from the ingress of material.If you do get dirty, carefully remove the top layer from the skin, while moistening it with vegetable oil. If the solution remains on the skin, you can remove the residue with a solvent, then wash your hands thoroughly with warm soapy water.
Conventional impregnation contains mainly chemical components. The drying oil consists of natural ingredients. Why waste effort, money and time on synthetics, when you can secure own health and wooden surfaces with natural materials?
When choosing a product, pay attention to the manufacturer. Today on the market you can find offal, which are produced under the name "drying oil", but their composition is not much like it. Therefore, only trust the work quality materials and renowned manufacturersand your wooden crafts will serve for many years.
If someone varnishes an icon without first impregnating it with drying oil - well, this is already quite strange, there is nothing to talk about, in my opinion. As far as I know, egg tempera requires an obligatory impregnation with linseed oil, otherwise, over time, the pigments turn white, lose their color and the paint layer quickly collapses.
Linseed oil recipe: a liquid desiccant (cobalt or lead) is added to a slightly warmed fresh linseed oil in a ratio of 1 to 10 (by volume). Drying time is about 4 hours.
Linseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus nuances) - oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linseed oil, regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without desiccants, begins to dry out from the upper surface layer, polymerized linseed oil is prepared at high blood pressure, and it begins to dry out simultaneously in the entire layer, but is more susceptible to yellowing and darkening later. That's all the fundamental difference, so that the drying oil is raw or boiled in essence the same thing, but if during cooking, in addition to the desiccant, you add some breaks to it (you should know which ones and how much) you get a good one oil varnish.
Regarding the drying time, this largely determines the basis - the board and levkas, for example, I have dry linden boards, long-term aging, the drying oil is pulled like a sponge, I have at least 12 hours, and even then the drying oil can dry out, so I have to add extra oil.
It's better for our cause after all oxidized oil, since it is very important that both the paint layer and the levkas and the board are saturated with linseed oil as thoroughly as possible, since it is linseed oil, penetrating deeply into the tempera, that holds and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in a damp and cold room, the drying oil itself begins to grow moldy and darkens very quickly.
As oil varnishes darken in damp rooms and alcohol grows cloudy, as alternative option you can use "liquid wax" the world famous Italian company OIKOS, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. "Liquid wax" is used to cover the plaster type isk. stone, adheres well to walls subject to condensation, water resistant, appearance similar to milk, after drying it is absolutely transparent.
The appearance of stains after drying oil due to the uneven content of the binder in the paint layer, therefore, levkas is visible where there is little of this binder, especially it looks bad on faces. To reduce this undesirable effect, try to write with the same tempera texture as possible. On a personal letter, greasy yolk spots are unacceptable - they must be washed out and removed immediately. If, after applying a layer of melt and drying, matte bald spots appear on the surface, then you need to add a binder and water to the tempera. Approaching the end of smelting, it is necessary to assess the filling of the tempera with a binder in the light, and if there is a lack of it, it is necessary to dilute the binder with water and carefully "water" the paint layer with it in one or several steps, depending on the circumstances.
If you paint with a thick layer of paint, the risk of staining with drying is minimal. If the task is to write something thin layer taking into account the gesso lumen, it is better to make a tempera with a permissible lack of binder and, after finishing all the work on the site, add additional binder to the paint layer.
Well, also for those who do not know yet - there is such a control test for the degree of sufficiency of the binder in the paint layer: on the dried surface of tempera is carried out with a wet brush, if the trace is darker than the coller, then there is little binder, it is necessary to add, if on the contrary the trace is lighter, then everything is fine, nothing needs to be added.
Anyone sooner or later faces the need for repair. Today in the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update your interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint interior wood surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.
Wood surface painted with linseed oil does not always look attractive
Many are not serious about the solution this issue, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and start working without preliminary preparation surface, which becomes the main mistake.
If we are talking about a clumsy process with a roller, the result of which is visible on each fence, then the direction is chosen correctly. But at the heart of any well-done finishing operations is attention to detail, which should be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, you can waste not only time, effort and money, but also completely ruin consumables and the wooden object itself.
Therefore, it is important to consider the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface was previously covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition causes difficulties more than the others, therefore, first of all, you need to figure out: how and how to paint the drying oil previously applied to the surface of the wooden material?
To answer this question, one should get a little closer to such a construction archaism as drying oil, and understand why its use today causes such heated debate, both in the professional community and in amateur circles?
Drying oil is a film-forming liquid consisting of sediments vegetable oil (linseed, hemp, sunflower, mulberry, etc.), which is processed in a special way (overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and driers in the composition make it akin to oil paints, varnishes, primers and putties. In other words, drying oil as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricating or coloring raw material.
Drying oil is both a coloring and impregnating agent
IN soviet years oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only affordable means surface painting. It was applied to literally everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the dilapidated wallpaper layer by layer, old tiles in the bathroom or worn-out linoleum, with a high degree of probability, you can stumble upon a pro-irrigated surface. Previously, no repairs were complete without it.
With the appearance on the shelves building stores new paint and varnish mixtures, drying oil began to be used only for putty purposes in order to impart integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to the viscous composition of the drying oil, it has good filling, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of \u200b\u200bits application is painting metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office premises (toilet, dressing room, industrial kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, it is primed concrete surfaces and renew wood in outdoor work.
With all its advantages, drying oil has a number of significant disadvantages, which are well known to those who have tried without preprocessing apply another paint and varnish to it. Among the obvious disadvantages, it should be noted:
- low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other coloring agents, therefore even the most expensive paint later a short time "Get off";
- a strong smell that never completely disappears either in the process or after it and a stale, unpleasant atmosphere is created in a closed room;
- slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (the fastest - natural, and longer - synthetic);
- fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of highly flammable solvents in the composition;
- inconvenience of use, since you need to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), preheating the mixture;
- fragility.
It is not recommended to paint with cheap drying oil, it has a number of negative qualities
I must say that all of the above negative points for the most part are characterized by low-quality, cheap drying oil. Good coverage possesses them only in part.
It would seem that it is simply impossible to re-paint the surface impregnated with linseed oil. But the situation is not as dire as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right tools and paint.
When working with pro-lined material, choosing the right paint is paramount. Anyone who tried to put paint on the drying oil invariably noticed: the freshly applied coating "bubbles" as it dries, and the opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic drying oil smell.
Yet there are several types of dyes and finishing materials, which I can cope with a difficult drying oil. These include:
- oil paint;
- alkyd paint;
- acrylate oil paint;
- water dispersion paint;
- pentaphthalic enamel (or in another way called PF-115);
- nitrocellulose varnish (or in another way called NTs-132);
- oil-based liquid wallpaper;
- self-adhesive paper or film.
Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and fits perfectly on top of it
Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surfaces. In no case should you try to paint the drying oil with quick-drying nitro-enamel or water-based paint: our clever oil-based impregnation will simply "push away" the paint layer.
TO standard set several more new tools are bought:
- roller or brush;
- spray gun, or spray gun;
- tray for mixing paint;
- a bucket of soapy water;
- clean rags;
- stiff bristled brush or sandpaper;
- metal spatula;
- draw frame or manual loop;
- disinfecting compound (antiseptic, fire retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
- putty on wood or plaster on concrete;
- primer;
- gloves and respirator.
For pasting with self-adhesive film you need:
- stationery knife;
- powder or talcum powder;
- water with detergent solution;
- dry rag;
- pin or needle.
Self-adhesive film looks good, easily glues on surfaces pre-treated with linseed oil
Everything you need at hand. Nothing prevents you from getting started.
The importance of pre-treatment of the pro-irrigated surface has already been mentioned more than once. Lower preparatory stages can only be a short-sighted dilettante who does not feel sorry for his wasted efforts and funds for materials. A thrifty owner will prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.
So, here is the sequence in which you need to carry out the processing work:
- Clean surfaces from mechanical contamination: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, greasy stains, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done with a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let dry.
- Sand or, if possible, shave off the top layer (the latter is only for wood) using coarse sandpaper, a hand scrubber, or better yet, a scraping draw frame... Wash with water. Let dry.
- Seal all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Grind fine-grained sandpaper... Wipe with a damp cloth.
- Prime. Let dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait until it is completely dry.
- Apply a disinfecting compound no later than 6 hours after the previous step. Let dry.
These carefully performed steps will greatly facilitate paint application and prevent deformation throughout the life of the paint.
Now that the negative properties of drying oil have been reduced to naught as much as possible, it's time to start painting or pasting the surface.
Painting works are carried out in several stages at temperatures from –30 to +40 degrees and relative air humidity not higher than 80%:
- To begin with, a stripe layer with a brush is painted hard to reach places, welds, end edges.
- The coloring solution is applied in one layer by means of vertical movements, direction from left to right or from the wall farthest to the door with a roller, brush or spray gun (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also allowed to dip the object into the paint mass. A complete drying time is expected.
- Metallic surfaces are painted over in 2-3 layers and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wooden - 1-2.
- Rinse dry surface hot water (no soda added or detergent) in order to get rid of divorces. Wipe again before use.
- You can get rid of the persistent smell of some types of paints (for example, oil paints) by placing 2-3 jars of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the painted area or in the room.
It is very important to wait until each previous layer of paint is completely dry before applying the next one. The final drying time of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least a day.
Check if the surface is dry or not, perhaps traditional method - by placing your finger on the painting area. If necessary, you should wait for a longer period.
Transforming a pro-surfaced surface is not an easy task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection necessary tools and finishing materials in just a few days, you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look that will delight its diligent owner for a long time to come.