One of the most popular services in the construction market today is to build a log. According to this technology, not only private houses, but also baths, as well as household buildings are built. They are warm and attractive in appearance.
If you wish to make walls warmer you can install a ventilated facade. But some prefer to leave the walls in primeval form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to older traditions. If you have appropriate skills, you can build a house from a profiled bar with your own hands. However, first must be familiar with technology.
Main steps
When assembling at home, you must remember his shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of installation of the units of natural humidity. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if the material of natural humidity is applied. Exceeded logs sitting at about 9 cm.
The assembly is divided into several stages. The first includes a project, then the foundation is erected. The main stage is the grazing assembly. The final works are the manipulation of the roofing device. After shrinkage, external and internal works are held.
The most important first crown
The assembly technology of the house from the profiled bar provides for the focus of special attention to the first crown. It is one of the vulnerable places. This node will form the contour of the house. It is closer to the surface of the Earth and contacts the foundation that pulls into the water from the soil.
The first crown is shielded, these works involve its separation from the foundation of the waterproofing layer. As it, it is usually protruding the runner, stacked on a layer of bituminous mastic. From above there is a lining 100-mm bar, just that its thickness is. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled bar. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and wall material.
The lining bar should be made from larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting. The material in this case must be processed by an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling the house from the profiled bar is put on the building area, you can start work. After the construction of the foundation and laying the first crown, you can start mounting the lower crown, which is a bar with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after drying the mixture, the layer of the jute seal is stacked from above. Its thickness should be 5 mm.
Overlapping beams must be embedded in the first crown. But it is better to put them in such a way that they relieved on Ruralshard foundation. If the lower crown occurs, there will be less problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are better made of larch.
The need to process bar
Works on the assembly of houses from the profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the processing of the material by antiseptics. At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only the available parts of the walls.
Before laying a profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. Do it is necessary before assembling at home. Sezheng and Tycurilla can be performed by antiseptic compositions.
Conducting insulation
After examining the instructions for assembling the house from the profiled bar, you will learn that the obligatory stage is the seal. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is paved in the corner connections - the most vulnerable places. Some types of profile on the type of Finnish imply laying the junteen tape along the bar in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is the reduction of wall injection. To achieve the result, there will be a layer of 5 mm.
Use of brazen as a connection
An independent assembly of the house from the profiled timber is accompanied by the use of brazing. They are spikes and pins for attaching structural elements. Products have an oblong shape and have a round or square cross section. The basis may be:
- plastic;
- metal;
- wood.
If the walls are harvested from a profiled bar, then the rest are suitable wooden brazed. This mount is used when the humidity of the bar is greater than 20%. This is done so that when drying, the material is not deformed, and cracks were not formed between the crowns. Hell will work on bending and will not allow the bending of the bar.
If you decided to use brazenly as fasteners, you can use some tips that will simplify work. Between themselves should be connected no more than two bars. Begroes are located in a checker order. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.
Begroes should have about the same humidity as a bar. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 bars. The diameter of the holes may be larger than the diameter of the fasteners per 1 mm. Better if this parameter is the same. The heater is clogged with a blue and bleed into the bar. When assembling a house from a profiled timber, you must choose brazen, the length of which will be less than the length of the opening by 30 mm. This requirement is due to the compensation of shrinkage.
Build nuances: instructions for conducting work
By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling at home, you can independently carry out its installation. Each link will be in its place, the products are performed in products. Work is needed on the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and when installing it is necessary to follow the scheme.
In the process, you must take into account the grooves and spikes of every detail. When laying with a profile, each edge should match. If the grooves and spikes are not very complex, then the sealing material is laid between the links. This increases the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls.
When assembling the house from the profiled timber, it is important to ensure a dense adjacent of the links to each other. If this rule is not respected, the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the shape of a comb, lay the insulation there is no need. The bars will have propilation-bowls that connect the links among themselves in a flat masonry. If there is no cup, you can cut them out using mobile cups.
Completion of construction
After shrinkage, you can proceed to rough and finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, entrance doors and windows are installed. Installation of rough floor is carried out. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm, then in additional insulation and cladding they do not need. They will be great to keep warm.
Then the protective impregnation must be applied. This will save wood in excellent condition for many years. If there is a desire, then you can acquire the composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture, it is possible to emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a saturated shade.
Features of insulation
After assembling the house from the profiled timber, you can also carry out insulation. In the process, this is usually involved:
- tow;
- plates of glass gambles;
- mineral wool;
- lengthite canvas.
The glass gamble is paired by a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect the heat inside the premises. The presence of steam isolation will reduce the evaporation of moisture that steals heat.
As thermal insulation, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, as it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which ultimately will be the cause of its rotting. For the same reasons, insulating the walls with a rubberoid, like a pergamine, as well as a polyethylene film. It is better to use a membrane variable material.
Finally
Build a house from a profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to carry out wall mounting, guided by the principle of the "Lego" constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be separated. This is usually used drywall, organic or lining.
With the roof device for such housing it is better to use professional flooring or Ondulin. Great fits metal tile. Insuction in this case begins with an attic floor. The wizards are then moving to the roof.
Houses from the profiled bar are cozy and reliable. They proved their worth many years ago. There was a lot of time, and the benefits of wooden houses are only added. Nowadays, such houses are built pretty quickly, because they are going like a children's constructor. This also contributes to the presence of special fastenings and availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled timber independently.
- Installation of base and floor
- Warming and finishing at home
Features profiled bar
The profiled bar is a building material that is mined from coniferous trees, for example, pines, cedar, ate, larch. If you carefully look at the material, then notice that the inner side is smooth and planed, and the external one has semi-shaped, or it can also be smooth. On the sides there are special grooves and spikes that allow the timing quickly and efficiently. Ecology is considered the main advantage of the profiled bar, since it is done without the use of glue.
The material is also very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments bribe many people. As mentioned above, the profiled bar is quite easy and quickly going, which is a good news for lovers of independent construction. But do not forget that the profiled bar is a tree on which the pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. may occur there. Therefore, it is necessary to always handle wood with special protective compositions.
The profiled bar practically does not have cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not suffer moisture. Therefore, it should be closely following the roof and not tighten with its repair. If your home is periodically exposed to cold, additional insulation should be made.
Start building a house from a bar
It is very important to make a project of the house from the profiled bar. When you make a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, as it will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a project of the future home yourself, or you can contact the construction company. Before you begin to prepare for construction, it should be understood that the best time for construction is winter.
If you plan to independently engage in wood workpiece, it is better to do in the cold season and to dry for a long time at home. In this case, the bar will sit evenly and calmly. But you should not fall in extremes - in severe frosts it is better to abandon such work, since the tree can become very fragile.
With an independent workpiece, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to cut the logs evenly and process them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase the ready-made material that will be cut under your requests. Also there will be carved the grooves, and you will just lay out the house from the profiled bar with your own hands, like a constructor.
Construction of the foundation for the house
Before you decide with the necessary type of foundation, study the geological conditions. To do this, find out the groundwater indicator, the composition of the soil, look at the design of the foundation of the already built houses in this area. Ribbon foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or slag blocks. The process of building such foundations is quite simple, but is distinguished by a large consumption of material and labor intensity.
For wooden buildings from a bar, a columnary, pile or finely opened ribbon foundation is perfect. Let's look at the constructing scheme of a finely blurred belt basement. It all starts with markup. In this process, it is very important to adhere to accuracy. External and internal corners of the building tick the spicy. After that, you need to combine their cord for giving volume. So you will understand how the foundation should look like.
After that, you can start digging the pit, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But it's not worth doing too small depth either, because we are building a house from the profiled bar and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with their rampant deeds. It will be enough for two bayonet shovels. At the same time, you should not retreat from initial markup for more than 20 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to put a rubble pillow. The bottom of the trench within the framework of this procedure is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) in 10 centimeters and a layer of rubble of the same thickness.
You can make a formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formworks are made of wood, in which there are no cracks and seams. When ordering it is better to choose a steel or plastic formwork. You must set the formwork in the trench and align it in the center. To increase the strength, it makes sense to use fittings - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement should be at least 1 centimeter.
It is advisable to use the frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they cannot be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The bars must freely fit into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and begin to the concrete fill. If you use a wooden formwork, moisten it even so that the tree does not absorb moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after drying the solution.
For insulation, it is possible to use plates of extruded polystyrene foam of 5 centimeters, and on the corners of the foundation - by 8. When the base of the foundation of the house from the profiled timber will be osselane, crushed stone falls on the place of formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The top of the foundation can be isolated by taking advantage of the rubberoid. Then it is necessary to make an inverse fall asleep for which you can use a previously seized soil.
Installation of base and floor
The construction of any house begins with the creation of a series that is placed on the treated and aligned waterproofing foundation. It should be noted that for outer walls it is necessary to use a ram with a cross section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for sex and inner walls - 100 per 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be processed by an antiseptic, for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the lags of the floor, which are desirable to lay on the edge.
Lags can be installed on the foundation of the house and fasten on the chub walls, as shown on the video about houses from the profiled bar. They must be put in the room and leave on there for several days to get used to temperature. Two lags should be positioned on opposite walls and pull the capro-thread between them, every and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guideline on which other lags can be made. Between the lags, gaps and emptiness will be formed, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, foam, isolon, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.
If you lay lags from boards with a thickness of 30 - 40 centimeters, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. With a thin plywood or wood wedges, you can adjust the height of the lag. You can wedges to strengthen using self-tapping screws or long nails. Lags are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can go to the installation and strengthening boards.
From the walls, it is necessary to retreat one and a half centimeter and strengthen the first row of boards on the stretched line. For screws should drill holes. It is necessary to put the board on each lag and strengthen it. If the slots will remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with plinth or brackets that should be connected to the board and grind up nails. The draft floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. For it, boards with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters are suitable.
The floor can fit with mixing or without offset, judging by the photo of houses from the profiled timber. First you must put the first layer and make it laying the wooden flooring. Remember the waterproofing, which falls on the bottom of the future floor. For these purposes, a foam or dense polyethylene can be used. At the last stage, the floor should be fastened from any material. To do this, the tipped board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.
Construction of walls of profiled timber
To build the walls of the brusade house, it is necessary to post alternate ranks from the bar. Each subsequent row is bonded with a heater (pins for a vertical connection), which does not allow the bruus to shift or twisted. Begroes can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house was built. It is known that braided from metal are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden, and the cost of the house from the profiled timber in this case will increase.
How are made brazen? This occurs according to the method of brickwork, through two or three rows through one. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which is equal to 3 - 4 centimeters. In these holes and will easily be inserted. The distance between the brackets should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay the seal for insulation. Where the outer walls are connected, it is desirable to apply the "Warm Corner" method.
In one bar, it is necessary to cut the protrusion of the required size, and in the other - cut out the groove with similar parameters. Some layers of timber can alternate grooves and spikes. This will strongly strengthen the structure, and the angles will not be bludging. If you build a house at one and a half years, the second walls must be raised approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions should be included in the capital walls of the floor. For them, it is possible to use a timber with a cross section of 100 to 150 millimeters. Installation of partitions is made only after creating a log.
If the size of the house is large than 6 by 6 meters, one partition should be on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of the house from the profiled bar, the inner walls can be made frame. To do this, it is necessary to create a frame of bars with a cross section of 50 to 50, to strip it with a clapboard or other material. In order for the wooden house to be fire resistant, all its details must be treated with antipiren. You can apply it to walls using a sprayer or painting brush.
And the last moment, which is worth understanding when the walls are built: pay due attention to creating window openings. In the installation places, it is necessary to cut the technological openings through which the air will move during the material drying. When the house is finally running out, you can install windows. Window blocks for the structure of the profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.
Warming and finishing at home
If the thermal insulation of the wooden house will be high-quality, you can reduce the cost of its heating. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The outer finish of the house significantly increases thermal insulation, due to the decrease in the humidity of the bar. She isolates it from various atmospheric precipitation. The most popular types of finishes are lining and siding, but siding is better not to use for a wooden house.
You can use mineral wool, plates from glass gambles, passcloth or flax fabric. Plates from glass whales should be laid by a foil vapor barrier material. Such an approach will help reflect heat inside the room, and steam isolation will reduce moisture evaporation, which, as is known, steals heat.
It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses from the profiled timber, it is better not to use polystyrene foam, since it will not allow the water moisture to evaporate completely and will cause rotting wood. For the same reasons, it is not necessary to isolate the walls with rubberoid, polyethylene film or pergamin. It is better to use vapor-permeable membrane material.
Inside, it is also desirable to separate the profiled bar, as it will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be performed from lining, organic or drywall. Remember that insulation should resemble a puff pie. Each layer should be protected from heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you are planning to spend time in the house only in summer, it can not be inspired.
Roof for home made of profiled timber
It is possible to use ondulin, professional flooring, rubberoid, metal tile to cover the roof. Remember that insulation should be started from the last or attic floor, and then move to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to establish ceiling beams, rafters and a crate. When the walls are lined up, ceiling lags should be put, which should perform for 50 centimeters to perform for the wall base. Lagges are made of timber with a cross section of 150 per 100 millimeters. They must be put on the edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.
After that, you should collect a rafter system of boards with a cross-section of 50 to 150 millimeters. This design is a skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with the help of racks, riglels and splines. The rafters should be mounted in a step of no more than one centimeter. When the frame will be ready, you can start displaying fronts, which can be made from siding or bar with a cross section of 150 to 150 millimeters. At the last stage, the cutting should be jaced the crate with a cross section of 25 to 150 millimeters.
It is worth noting that the shap shave should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent condensate accumulation, it is necessary to make steam insulation using the waterproofing layer. If you used slate as covering the roof, and the attic is blown away, you can refuse to build a house from a profiled timber from waterproofing.
When choosing a material for the coating, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer's tips, since for a different type of coatings, they can differ significantly. When installing it is very important to stick to the specified fasteners. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof can break. If you are strictly observed the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.
Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. For this you do not need to own special skills, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily handle this work. Collect the house will work out as a designer with whom you were played in childhood. For this, special fasteners are provided on the edges of the material. You will need another durable foundation and reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from the profiled bar!
The construction of walls from the bar is starting without preliminary assembly, the assembly starts immediately at the construction site of the house or bath, unlike the construction of walls from the logs. For construction from a bar, two main methods of angular compounds are used - "into the angle" and "with the residue". Interventical compounds are made using wooden brazing in the form of a circle with a diameter of three centimeters.
The choice of technology, in this case, implies the choice of a method for assembling walls, consider three basic ways. Before, for those who still do not know, it is worth noting that the timber is the finished building material that is made of logs, usually coniferous rocks, and in the factory conditions is reduced from four sides. When choosing a bar trying to get dry and even bars. Brous width at a temperature of -40 ° C should be at least 18 centimeters, and at -30 ° C, less than 15 centimeters. Brous assembly technology is more simple than the construction of walls from logs. They are less labor and accessible to independent erection, because there is no need for carpentry skills. Having small work skills, a private developer can easily collect a house from a bar with their own hands.
Of course, as the construction of any other home, the construction of a broken house starts with the preparation of the foundation, after which the first crown is established on it, the angular connection of which is made "in Polterev" regardless of the method of corner compounds chosen by you. After that, either continue to build "in Polterev", or they collect "into the dressing with a native spike" or pair of bars with the help of a key. The same technology of erection of chopped walls - a heater from MCH, pacle, hemp or felt is stacked between each layer of timber. The walls from the bar, compared to log, have one drawback: unlike a round groove in a log cabin, in the bars, the horizontal seam is filled with moisture when exposed to precipitation. If it is not supposed to sneak the rates of the wall with finishing materials, then on the upper edge of each bar make chamders of approximately 20x20 millimeters to improve water removal.
Build technology
The connection to Pedderv is a method that received its name due to the removal of the bottom and the upper half of its array on the corner compounds.
Such an assembly begins with the dors of the holes in the corners of BRUSEV to install a heater so that each heaters can connect several bars at once. After the first crown, which is connected by molecules in the corners, is laid, the seal is put on it, after which the next crown is put. As soon as the connection of the angles of the second crown is made, they begin to allocate the crowns among themselves. The second crown is clogged with a heater, which should enter the first crown on half of its length. If the tool used allows you to make holes for three crown thicknesses, then the heater is rafting three crowns. If you do not take special measures, such a technology for assembling a bar gives a very strong injection in the corner compounds of the design. In order to reduce the injection of angular connections, make grooves and fix the dense inserts from the tree. If, when assembling the walls "in the Poltera", leave the edges of the BRUSEV, then you can get the "with the residue" assembly, which is much less likely.
The assembly of walls by dressing the bars with a native spike begins with the removes of the holes in the angular compounds of the first crown under the heel, which connects "in Polterev". As soon as the first crown is laid, the method of fixing the corners is changing. In order to connect the angles with the method of dressing them with a native spike, the end of one bar is processed in the same way as in the figure, and at the end of the second bar is made a special groove. The technology of connecting the crowns is no different from the assembly "in Polterev". However, the indigenous spike strongly reduces the injection of angular compounds, which makes the walls warmer. But to achieve this, grooves and spikes should be very tightly connected.
Assembly blocking walls on the knaps
The assembly of walls using the key starts also from the assembly of the first crown by the method of "in Polterev". After that, the assembly of walls begins using the key in the angular connections. For connecting the corners at both ends of the bars, the grooves are cut down, and the keys are inserted into them, which should be very tightly adjacent to each other. The location of the veins and joints alternate through each crown so that the finished angle believes the angle shown in the figure when assembling the walls of the dressing method with a native spike. Very often, it uses nails with a length of no less to connect the crowns of timstives than the width of the one and a half of the crowns, which is very saving time. Also to simplify the assembly of walls using spikes, instead of wooden spikes use metal plates two or three centimeters width.
- The first crown is to begin with the assembly of the "In Poltera" method. Through two or three crowns, this method can be repeated;
- The location of the wedge should be alternating. The alternation is not required when the wedge is made on both sides;
- A few years later, after the main shrinkage of the walls occurred, it is necessary to make a pant of the walls - to close all the seams;
- Instead of using the pacle between the crowns in the construction of walls from the cut, it is worth using ready-made materials, which will greatly simplify the process of assembling the house of the bar.
And in conclusion, the construction technology from the bar is not inferior to the construction of the walls of the chopped log. This material is also very eco-friendly and comfortable, moreover, more technologically, if you pay attention to the process of further finishing works.
According to the technology of assembling walls of the house from the profiled bar, it is necessary to pay more attention to the masonry of the first crown. To create a house from a bar, if the temperature in winter to -30 degrees, its thickness must be at least 15 cm.
The first bar is installed in terms of the level, it will avoid the skew of the building. The first bar is best to take 5 cm thicker than those that will be used for the construction of the house.
At the next stage located interbruse insulation And on top of it mounted the second element.Brous connections
To connect logs to each other, they are usually used to be brazen, under which the holes make.
Main types of connections:
- angular compounds;
- grief joint;
- facial longitudinal nodes.
As a heater, it is best to use Lengut, this material in its composition has half of the flax and half of the jute.
To perform work, you will need such tools:
- roulette;
- a hammer;
- cord;
- building level;
- chainsaw.
Construction and bonding corners
Options Connection of angles without a residue:
- in the joke;
- "Holding";
- with a native spike;
- on the swords.
With the rest
- mount when laying in the angle "with the residue";
- single-term grooves;
- bilateral lock;
- quadrilateral castle.
There are several options for the construction of the corners:
- with the help of a keywhich in the bars make special grooves;
- using a type of type schip-groove, in this element, they make spikes, and in another groove;
- with help metal brackets, in this case, the bars are connected in bulk;
- way crossing the BreneThe half of the thickness is cut in each of them, and they are connected to each other.
In the locations of windows and doors, only one-piece material is used, it is clogged by 2 bells. You can cut the opening in the finished logging, they make it using chainsaws, but first you need to mark up.
Heat process
For the construction of a house, a base of 15-20 cm is usually used, but if you plan to live in it constantly, the walls must be additionally insulated. This can be done both outside and inside the building. Outside, you most often use siding or block mobile, and inside the lining or plasterboard.
Main insulation for outdoor walls:
- Mineral wool and its analogues;
- Windproof plates of isoplat;
- Styrofoam;
- Polyethylene foamed;
- Extruded polystyrene foam (EPPS);
- Sprayed polyurethane foam;
- Penoplex.
First, the wall markup is marked Taking into account the size of the insulation, so that it fits tightly between the crate. After that, the suspensions are fixed by self-pressing, which mounted metal profiles or wooden bars.
The insulation is settled between the cage, usually plates of mineral wool, which are fixed to the wall with a dowel-fungi, you can instead of watts instead the penplexBut it has a number of shortcomings (steamproof, fuel), the advantages can be attributed to high sound and thermal insulation, low price.
At the next stage, a waterproofing layer is mounted to protect the insulation, while its foil side must be turned outward, and all the seams are perfectly squeezed with scotch. Now it remains to close the facade of siding or block mobile.How to align the wall in the house if she arched
Sometimes there is such a problem as deformation, it can happen for several reasons:
- If you brought a dry bar and its final drying is already on the wall.
- If the installation technology is violated, when the insulation and moisture is incorrectly laid between the logs.
If you notice the curvature of the wall in time, then this can be corrected. In those places where the defignments appeared, as well as near the window and doorways, impose a tire from a channel or the same bar and is installed vertically over the entire height of the wall on both sides of the building.
Tire mount It is carried out at least three points, for this use metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm and wide washers. It is necessary to hold nuts well, but you should not expect an instant result.
It may be needed to several months until the tire and external weather factors are not given a normal form.
If with the help of tires it did not work out completely align the walls, then you can give the house with an attractive view, you can finish its facade.
If you decide to independently build a house from a bar, then to obtain a qualitative result, the following recommendations of specialists must be observed:
- Special attention is paid to the choice of material, pine is most often used from all coniferous rocks;
- It is better to use wood harvested in winter, if it was prepared in the summer, then the first year in the house is better not to coat, and in the second year it is necessary to maintain the temperature in the range of 16-18 degrees.
- Shrinkage occurs for three years, at that time minor cracks can appear on the walls, which is quite normal, after that, the surface changes are stopped.
- When creating a window or doorway, they need to do a little more than it is necessary, otherwise, during the shrinkage of the house, the frame crushes, the gap is filled with a soft insulation.
- To eliminate lateral displacement, the bars between themselves are connected by napillates.
- It is impossible to connect the bars nails, because when they are drying, the tree hangs on nails, and large gaps are obtained.
In contact with
Frame assembly technology from a bar for home or bath
Organization of the workplace for assembling walls
In order for the work to argue, the bars lay out to the stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the structure with one or better - from his two sides. Each layer of BRUSEV in the stack is placed on gaskets from the boards.
Near the storage room tools workplace for marking and cutting BRUSEV. A variant of the device of such a workplace is shown in the figure.
The marking of the timber using the template is convenient to perform at an altitude of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the markup zone, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered to low lining into the cutting zone. In this position, the timber is convenient and safely sawing with a chain saw.
Crawled timber raise the wall. To facilitate the lift, signs are suitable - inclined bars, which the top end relieve on the upper crown of the cut. The timber bar is moved using a rope.
Klion-shaped stops are navigated to the windows that make the ramp rise more secure. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to do small forces. Even one person can raise a bar if necessary, fixing it with the help of stops at intermediate points.
Works on the assembly of a log of timber is the most convenient to carry out a brigade of four. You can work together, just work will go slower.
For the installation of the upper crowns of the cut and roofs build forests.
Three-tiered forests on the front of the house. 1
- extreme racks; 2
- M-shaped rack of forests of the first tier on the side facade; 3
- flooring; 4
- Central racks; 5
- Splits cruciform (shown conditionally); 6
- Baries The assembly of the upper crowns of the church leads from the level of the first tier. Flooring the first tier is laid on G - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attach to the walls with bobbies, pos.6.
At the end of the roof (attic), on the facades where the device is needed, it is necessary to make forests in three tiers. For the device racks of forests use boards 50 x 150 mm. Flooring the same boards.
Working from the forest is more convenient, faster and safer than with stairs - do not forget about it.
Marking of bars for assembling walls
Practical construction experience shows that the sequence of the elements of angular connections in the head is not realistic.
Prior to the start of work, they draw a scheme of assembling the walls of the house, on which they denote: the sequence number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.
An example of a wall assembly scheme of the house is shown in Figure:
The layout of the corner joints of the bar and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for the house with the overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM - longitudinal walls; D. and B. - transverse walls; E. - inner wall of timber - partition; 1
- Shakes of Bruusyev. At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 segments of bars long from 3 to 6 m.
The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar of the standard length is 6 meters and a dog, 3 meters long. On one crown lay on the left long bars, and on the right are good. In the next crown, the laying begins in a similar manner, but on the right.
The details of the crown of the transverse wall and partitions are made from one bar of standard length of 6 meters.
To eliminate cold bridges in the outer walls, joints of the bar of the longitudinal wall, pos.1, perform, making vertical cutouts "in the floor of a tree" with Faststom at 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected to the dressing with a native spike (see below).
How to quickly and quickly perform marking of thorns, grooves and other profiles, ensure the identity of the size of the bars blanks?
The easiest way to do this with the help of templates. The template is applied to the timber and transfer the pattern of the pattern profiles to the surface of the bar.
It is more convenient to place faster and there will be less errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, it has the same length with a locked part. I left the template on the bar and immediately moved all the sizes and profiles to the workpiece.
For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template is placed two mirror wall details.
If you think about, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for the markup of the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (for the wall assembly scheme, see above).
Two templates (isolated bright yellow) for the markup of the bar of longitudinal walls. 4
- groove for indigenous spike; 5
- groove for spike inner wall; 6
- pattern; 7
- Bar of Dog. In the figure, at the top shows the template For the markup of the main bar in the crown, whose good is located on the right. On the wall markup scheme, these are the wints A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.
Lower pattern It serves to mark the main bar in the crowns with a good left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.
Templates at first glance are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places of templates.
The same patterns are used to mark up the details of the good. To do this, on templates at points b. and from drilled through holes, and at points but and d. Cuts are made.
For the markup of the problem, the template is applied to a bar and through the holes and cuts heating points on the surface of the workpiece.
Remember this reception with the device holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.
Templates are made of an arched "inches".
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 - for longitudinal walls and 1 - for transverse). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to get blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse pattern allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.
And now consider how to apply templates. For the markup of the first vents of the crown (for example, starting on the left), the left template is laid on the bar and turn the end template to the marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, the sample for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the opening site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better at the markup
Stroke) cut with a chain saw.How to place details with spikes? Obviously, spikes and grooves are elements of the same assembly, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In the details with a spike at the place of the groove mark the spike.
If the size of the groove is 5 × 5 cm, then the spike must have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The clearance is filled with interventory insulation.
The profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markup is transferred to the vertical face of timber with the help of a square. On this markup and carry out neat cuts.
How to collect smooth walls from a timing of different widths
The technical conditions (TU) for the manufacture of timber is allowed to deviate the size of the timber in one direction or another side of the standard value indicated in the documents.
If in the purchase documents, the standard sizes of the timber are indicated, for example, the section 150x150 mm. and 6 meters long, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.
Each bar, in the bar brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions specified in the documents, a few millimeters. Sizes in the section and the length of the bars will be different.
The size in size must be considered when developing templates, marking of the bar and assembly of walls.
How to collect smooth walls if the bar is different in width and length?
b. - minimum timing width; delta B. - the difference between a narrow and wide bar. Obviously, from a bar of different widths, it is possible to make a smooth only one surface of the wall - or outside, or from the inside of the construction.
If you want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all bars in the wall are aligned along the outer face. Then inside the house the wide bars will perform from the wall on the value of "Delta b."(The difference between narrow and wide bars). The alignment of the outer face leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the BRUSEV (see Figure).
If the bars in the wall align on the inner face, then the "steps" of the repellent bars will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The wall is usually trimmed. And if the bar has to remove the chamfer from the outer edges, the steps on the wall will be invisible and without a sheaving. Corner compounds of BRUSIV are obtained more dense, "warm".
How and what to connect the crowns
Each crown of a log is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden brazers. Begroen placed at a distance of about 250-300 mM. From the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.
Each detail of the crown is fixed at least two coppers. The length of the brazen must be at least 1.5 times, more than the height of the bar.
cm., pos. one. Braided from round steel diameter 6-8 mm. - Pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mM.), just clog the hammer in the bars of the crowns, the option a. on the image.
The upper ends of the napillates from any material must be plugged into the bar on 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then during the drying of the bar and shrinkage, the cutting of the cut will be copied above the bar and raise the upper crown. Between the crowns are formed a large gap.
For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged berthed from reinforcement steel. The corrugated surface of such copiers will hold the bars of the crowns from moving during a shrink shrink, even if the heater is bold to the bar. The crowns will simply hang on such impudations.
Steel clogged gripped small diameter can not always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with a large length of the walls of the walls. Their use can be recommended for small-sized buildings - for example, bath. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install the increased diameter.
Steel braided with a diameter of 10 and more than millimeters, as well as wooden brazers insert into the holes drilled in a bar. The diameter of the holes make a little less than the diameter of the heater.
With a dense landing of the heel into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk increases that the shrink shrinkage will be interferent.
Wooden braided with a diameter of 25-30 mM. Convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made of solid wood. From the bottom end of the brazen, it is recommended to remove the chamfer - it will be easier to score the brazen into the hole.
You can cut from the usual chalkboard "inches" beaten square sections 25x25 mm. From one end of the workpiece shoot chamdes. Such stoles are clogged into a hole made by a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.
The ribs of such a heat from a relatively "soft" coniferous wood when smoking smashed, wood is compacted, providing a sufficiently dense landing of brazen in the hole.
How to drill holes in a bar under the brave
The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of napillates should exceed at least 4 cm. Begotten length. Moreover, the hole should be free from chips.
For drilling holes in a bar, sufficiently deep and large diameter, they usually use a low-speed electric floring (drill). In the passport of the power tool, it is usually indicated that the drill diameter in one or another material is calculated. Given the greater drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a reserve in power.
For drilling holes in a bar, it is convenient to equip the drill focus, as shown in the figure.
The stop bar is attached to a drill with steel clamps. Emphasis, in the form of a wooden bar, attach to a drill, for example, clamps. Emphasis stops drilling at the necessary depth, but the rotation of the drill after that does not stop. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from the chips, it turns into and, then, easily gets from the deep hole.
The drilling of the holes for connecting the crowns is convenient to produce in a bar, which is already installed on the wall in the project position on the interwetant insulation. But here usually The problem arises - the interventovaya gasket is not amenable to drilling. The fibers of the laying material are simply wound on the drill and clamp it.
You have to install a bar on the wall in two receptions. First, the timber is mounted without gasket and temporarily fix from the offset, for example, nails. Drill holes under bent. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and laid the interventic insulation.
In places of drills gasket cut out with a sharp knife. Then, the pace removed is re-installed in place, already on the gasket, and fastened with bellows.
Drilling holes in a bar laid on the wall should be produced, standing on a solid base - forests, suspensions, flooring. Stand on a narrow wall and drill dangerous. The drill can "eat", a powerful drill will unfold and easily throw an employee from the wall.
How to make a smooth wall of the curve
In the bar brought to the construction site, part of the bars may be curved. The bar may have a curvature in the same plane, or screw the screw and become a rhombid in cross section.
If there is an opportunity, then the curves of the bars are better not to use for the walls of the house or bath. Brux with curvature is recommended to cut into smaller parts and use in other, less responsible places.
A small amount of timber having a curvature in the same plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not put such a timber in the wall in bulk up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the bar will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.
The curve bar is placed in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.
Curve bar straighten consistently fixing it with brazers The curved timber is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a direct bar. After laying the interventovate insulation, the curved timber is fixed with impudent at one end and the intake is consistently fixed with anticipation at the other points.
To extend the timber of great efforts. Easy work will help the lever and bracket
Interventical gasket - insulation, seal
For and cold, gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, for this was used moss or linen pass. Currently, there are special laying materials based on flank or flax. Material for sale in the form of roll ribbon 20 cm.
The tape of the gasket material is laid throughout the upper face of a bar in two or three layers and fastened with brackets using a construction stapler.
If the wall is not trimmed, the gasket must be 1-2 from the outer edge of the bar cm.Otherwise she will wet.
Some wizards lay the gasket material into one layer and offered after shrinkage to cut the jokes, adding an additional amount of material in the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a smaller flow rate.
Work on the panties of the joints is quite time-consuming and tedious. It is better to immediately put the seal with a cessary, in several layers (three layers) to eliminate the need for horizontal jacks.
How to control the accuracy of the harbor
In the process of construction of the house or bath, it is necessary to regularly check the accuracy of the harness from the bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:
- Vertical angles.
- Height of corners and walls.
- The horizontal of the crowns and the upper faces of the bar.
- Straightness of the walls.
- The quality of laying interventory insulation.
For control vertical angles Apply the following method.
To control the verticality of the angle on each side of the crown apply a vertical line. 1
- lower strapping; 2
- crowns; 3
- control lines; 4
- Cocol. On each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner rib painted the vertical line.
With the proper laying of the crowns, this line should be direct and coincided with a vertical. The vertical of the line is checked with a plumb.
If deviations are detected, then the operation is suspended and eliminated by the cause.
The height of the corners and walls are measured roulette. The measurement lead from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping bar using a water level.
Horizontality of the crowns and upper faces Bruus check by level.
Straightness of walls Determine visually by pulling along the cord wall.
Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the angles. Deviations from the verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the angles is adjusted, increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the axial angles. Sometimes it helps, if you knock down a sledge hammer in a bar in a high corner.
The quality and thickness of laying interventory insulation check visually, examining the walls.
Window and doorways in Srub
From the second crown, the doorways begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor to the window is selected in the range of 70 - 90 cm.
Laying timets in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.
but
- scheme arrangement of openings in the wall, where: 1
- wall; 2
- open doors; 3
- simpleness; 4
- open windows. in
- Scheme of cutting timber, where C is the balance of cutting. g.
- Option of the device of the opening in a chair with the installation of temporary bonding bars, pos.7. d.
- Option with installation in the opening of the deck, pos.6 - immediately get the opening ready for installation of the door or window. In practice, two options for the formation of openings are used when assembling a church.
One option - " g " on the image. The opening is done in the draft version, it is only preparation for creating an opening. The opening is preparing for the installation of doors and windows not immediately when assembling a log. This work is left for later - usually do after shrinking a church.
This option allows you to speed up the work on the grazing. In the opening, the bars are installed, bonding commonness with a log cabin, pos.7 in the figure. In the doorway, install at least two such bars.
In the process of shrinkage, the seaspler chub can "lead" inward or outward. To prevent it bar in stocks fasten up vertically installed boards.
In another embodiment - " d."In the picture, the openings immediately prepare for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (soups) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The groove includes spikes of timber. In this way, the plain timber is fixed from the displacement. In this embodiment, the openings are immediately prepared for installation of doors and windows.
The decks (souls) traditionally serve not only for connecting timber in the opening, but also perform the role of window slopes, windowsill. To do this, they are carefully treated, relieve curly chamfer.
Installation option Window in a wall of timber: 1 - finishing of slopes of the window; 2 - the board of vertical souls with a rail - spike, enters into the slide of the wall of the wall; 3 - frame of the plastic window; 4 - sealing ribbon psyl In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and a device of plastic slopes and windows, the decks (s) can not be done. Brux in the opening fasten so. In the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening, the vertical grooves drink and insert a railway there, which fixes the bars of simpleness from the offset.
The length of the deck (s) or racks should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cmnot to prevent the shrink shrink.
Baths for home, baths in your city
How to install windows in a wall of timber
If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window is starting from drinking the opening under the desired size. To do this, the rails are stuck, pos.2 in the figure, and the chain saw along the edge of the rails scolded bars.
Proper window installation in a wall of a bar. 1
- wall; 2
- Rake; 3
- platband; 4
- window; 5
- window box; 6
- Bar wall above the window; 7
- interwidder insulation; 8
- Shrinking gap over the window and deck; 9
- window frames; 10
- Bar wall (simpleness); 11
- deck; 12
- Nail. Then the disk saw on the ends of the bars wall (simple) is cut out spikes. The spikes, pos.10, are planted with grooves, pos.11. The joints are sealing insulation. The deck is naked to the walls of the wall with nails clogged at an angle, pos. 12. So nails will not prevent the shrink shrink.
In the window prepared in this way, the window box is inserted, which is attached to the decks with self-draws. Above the window box be sure to leave the gap, pos. 8, to compensate for shrinkage. The magnitude of the gap 5-7 cm. The clearance is filled with soft insulation material.
Compensation clearance must be left over the top end of the deck.
Similarly prepare openings and insert the doors to the walls from the bar.
After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is overlapped with inter-storey or attic beams (if the structure is one-story) overlap.
May be a constructive element. And can perform and independent function.
The next page describes the structure of the broken roof of the house from the bar, where the beams of floor overlapping simultaneously serve as an element of a malicious roof filament frame.
Look at the video clip in which the logging technology from the construction bar is described in a detail.