Insulation of the roof of a wooden house. How to insulate a roof in a wooden house

As many remember from the school physics course, the warm air in the room rises up, and the cold, accordingly, falls. It is through the uninsulated attic and the roof that the house loses 15 to 30% of its heat! Usually the attic is insulated when building a house, but if necessary, you can also insulate the attic in a private old house.

Roof insulation

We insulate the attic of a new house

As a rule, they begin to insulate the attic after the roof is completed: the covering is laid, the wind insulation is made. First, the floor is insulated, and if the layer of thermal insulation material is reliable enough, you can take your time with the insulation of roof slopes and gables.

Keep in mind that you can start insulating the attic of a wooden house only after the building has shrunk. Usually this is done not earlier than six months after the end of construction, although shrinkage can last more than a year. Sometimes, when shrinking, wooden structures are warped or cracks appear in them. Before starting work in the attic, these shortcomings should be eliminated.

For work you will need

1. Insulation (chipboard boards, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, expanded clay, sawdust with clay, etc.).
2. Materials for arranging steam and thermal insulation:
   • vapor barrier foil (polypropylene or polyethylene film, metallized membrane or fiberglass membrane);
   • single or double-sided adhesive tape for sealing the seams between foil sheets;
   • felt or polyurethane tape for heat and sound insulation of the floor.
3. Tool for cutting insulation (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene plates) and finishing materials (chipboard, lining, drywall, etc.).
4. Boards, plywood, lining or drywall boards.
5. Nails, hammer.
6. Construction stapler and staples.
7. Safety goggles, respirator and gloves for working with mineral wool.

Keep in mind that the following methods of insulating the attic are used in cases where it is not heated and is used as a warehouse, summer workshop, etc. However, if the attic will be heated or used as a summer residential attic, the slopes and walls should be additionally sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard and paint, and lay plates of expanded polystyrene or chipboard on the floor.

We insulate the space under the roof

Many probably noticed that in old village houses only the floor of the attic is often insulated, but not the roof. The fact is that the sloping surface of the gable roof holds the layer of snow well - it serves as an additional "blanket" for the roof. Even in severe frosts, the temperature under the slopes rarely drops below zero degrees. In the attic room, small windows are made that open for ventilation in the summer heat.

In the attic, which will be used as a utility room, the space under the roof will have to be insulated. For self-insulation, it is convenient to use sheet insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool mats) or rolled mineral wool. The density of mineral wool insulation is 10-55 kg / sq. m. Sometimes these heaters are used together: the first layer is fixed with expanded polystyrene, the second - mineral wool.

Before fixing the insulation between the rafters, a vapor barrier foil is nailed onto the crate with a construction stapler. The joints are sealed with insulating tape, but you can also overlap the foil. Foil mineral wool mats can also be used. In this case, no additional vapor barrier is required.

Usually, the required thickness of the sheets of insulation is slightly greater than the thickness of the rafter legs. Make thickening "padding" on them and nail in perpendicular pieces of wood or steel battens. Place an additional layer of insulation between them, then fix it with thin slats, and stuff a wooden covering on top. In residential attics, you can complete the finish with plasterboard.

We insulate the floor

As in the previous case, before laying out the insulation, a vapor barrier is made (for example, from foil polyisol). When arranging a floor slab, the film is laid on top of it; when insulating a wooden floor, it is nailed with an overlapping stapler.

1. Thermal insulation of a concrete floor. If a reinforced concrete slab serves as the overlap, materials with a high density (\u003e 160 kg / sq. M) are used to arrange thermal insulation. These are mineral wool or cork mats, extruded polystyrene foam, and expanded clay from bulk materials.
2. Thermal insulation of a wooden floor. Insulation in wooden floors is placed between the logs. Usually these are cotton wool insulation with a low density (< 50 кг/кв.м). Поверх утеплителя желательно настелить рубероид, а в качестве чистового пола уложить плиты ДСП.

Thermal insulation of the attic of an old house

Before starting work on the insulation of the attic of an old house, carefully inspect it. Check for cracks in the rafters and pediments, what is the safety of the floor. It may be that some of the beams will have to be replaced, or it may be necessary to additionally insulate the roof. Wooden parts must be impregnated with special moisture- and fire-resistant solutions and an antiseptic solution against fungus and pests.

It is also necessary to perform a number of preparatory work. If the attic of the old house was previously insulated and the insulation has not lost its properties, additional insulation materials can be laid on top of the existing ones. For example, on top of a floor insulated with clay and sawdust, you can install a crate and lay mineral wool. Thus, "the original floor level is" rough ".

Otherwise, the old insulation should be removed, and a new modern one with a higher complex of operational properties should be laid on top of it. After additional insulation, a new final floor is laid.

Features of working with common heaters

Basic requirements for insulation materials:

1. relatively low weight (this is especially important in houses with wooden floors);
2. non-toxicity;
3. ease of processing;
4. fire resistance;
5. moisture resistance;
6. good heat and sound insulating properties.

Modern insulation materials meet all these requirements to one degree or another. The most popular of them are polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, mineral (fiberglass and basalt) wool. In brick and stone houses with solid reinforced concrete ceilings, insulation is sometimes used "the old fashioned way". This can be done using inexpensive environmentally friendly expanded clay or clay mixed with sawdust.

Mineral wool

Insulation of an attic with mineral wool is the most inexpensive and at the same time acceptable in quality way of insulating attic rooms. Mineral wool has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and its elasticity makes it easy to mount on rafters. In addition, it is non-flammable and not susceptible to biological pests. Mineral wool is sold in the form of mats or in rolls.

Mineral wool insulation

The most effective thermal insulator is considered to be mineral wool slabs with so-called "randomly oriented fibers". A mineral wool slab with a thickness of only half a centimeter in terms of thermal protective properties replaces almost a meter of brickwork! At the same time, it is light enough and does not create additional load on the floors. Mineral wool is a durable material, its service life is at least 50 years.

When working with mineral wool, remember that it contains a certain amount of formaldehyde.In addition, the smallest mineral wool "needles" are dangerous for the eyes and respiratory system and irritate the skin of the hands. Therefore, you need to cut and even more lay the mineral wool in goggles, a respirator and gloves. Construction masks-respirators can also be used.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Polyurethane foam refers to a liquid heat insulator and is applied to any surface (wood, brick, stone, concrete) by spraying. Today, it is considered the most effective thermal insulation building material. When processing with polyurethane foam, a durable, bass-based covering is created, so there will never be drafts in the insulated attic.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

By itself, polyurethane foam is an expensive material. However, before applying it, you do not need to do vapor barrier and waterproofing, and it is much easier to work with it than with other heat insulators. They can handle the space under the roof between the rafters, and the voids between the logs of the wooden floor, and reinforced concrete floors.

Polyurethane foam can reduce heat loss by almost 30% (in comparison with other materials for thermal insulation). By spending a large amount of money to buy it, in winter you will save twice on heating.

Expanded polystyrene

Inexpensive, lightweight and durable, extruded polystyrene foam sheets are commonly used in older houses with hardwood floors. It keeps heat well and does not weigh down the supporting structures, it is easy to cut (with a sharp stationery knife or saw) and mount. Its other advantages are moisture resistance (it does not absorb moisture) and environmental friendliness.

To insulate the space under the roof and floor, plates 10-15 centimeters thick in two layers are used. The first is fixed between the logs, and the second is laid on top of them. The structure is fixed with slats, a vapor barrier is laid on top (for example, "Izospan"), and then upholstered with plywood or clapboard.

It is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam if you will use it as a technical or utility room. But if you are going to arrange, for example, a workshop in the attic, it is not recommended to use it. This material has little to no noise protection and is unstable for organic solvents that can spill onto the floor or evaporate into the air. Some types of Styrofoam are fire resistant, but in general it is considered flammable.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is an inexpensive and quite effective natural heat-insulating material that is used for thermal insulation of foundations and floors. It can be used in attics with reinforced concrete floors, as it creates a significant load on the beams. An effective layer of expanded clay on an area of \u200b\u200b100 square meters, according to GOST, is poured in a layer of up to 60 centimeters, while the weight of the backfill is about 30 tons! In non-residential attics, the insulating layer may be smaller (25-40 centimeters), and in this case they do not make a concrete screed, but it often turns out to be overwhelming for the attic floor of a wooden house.

Warming with expanded clay

Insulation of the attic with expanded clay has some features in comparison with other materials. Since this is a porous material that absorbs moisture, not only vapor barrier, but also waterproofing should be laid under the expanded clay backfill. It can be roofing material or ordinary polyethylene film, which is better to be laid with a single sheet, and not welded from several sheets.

It is not recommended to use polyethylene for a wooden floor, since the tree covered with it will not "breathe" - it is preferable to use "Izospan" as a vapor barrier.

For insulation, expanded clay of 10-15 mm fraction is used, which is poured into a wooden frame ("box") made around the perimeter of the room. A vapor barrier membrane is also laid on top of the expanded clay layer. Despite the good thermal insulation properties of expanded clay, experts do not recommend using it specifically for thermal insulation of attics. If the attic is already insulated with expanded clay, its layer is insufficient, but you cannot completely change the insulation, remove the subfloor and lay mineral wool on the expanded clay (under the upper vapor barrier membrane).

Sawdust and clay

In the days of our grandmothers, dry leaves, straw, and hay were placed on the attic floor in order to "not blow from above". But the most common and affordable way to make the house cozy was to insulate the attic with sawdust and clay. It is very easy to insulate an attic in a country house or in a wooden cottage in the old way. It is important that this method of insulation will cost you almost free.

Insulation with sawdust and clay

Prepare the solution:

• dilute the clay to thickened milk;
• add enough sawdust to the solution so that the solution can be mixed. In appearance, it will be just wet sawdust, slightly smeared with clay;
• sprinkle the mixture on the floor of the attic with a layer of 15 centimeters, level and tamp.

After the mixture dries, you will get a very dense, slightly springy floor covering. From above, you can pour another five centimeters of wet sawdust and tamp it again. A mixture of clay with sawdust keeps heat well, and besides, this floor "breathes". Fill the floor with a thin layer of lime, and top up with straw, chaff, or dry sawdust.

It is imperative to prepare for the winter period in advance. Especially for the owners of private houses. For this, it is necessary not only to purchase a sufficient amount of firewood or coal, but also to take care of the general insulation of the house. And you need to pay attention to both the walls and the roof. After all, insulating the roof of a wooden house from the inside will provide an optimal microclimate in living rooms, increasing the average temperature in each room by several degrees. In such a house it will be warm even in the most severe frosts. The thermal insulation of the roof, executed in accordance with all the rules, will reduce the cost of operating the house, increase its durability and make living conditions more comfortable.

Wooden house

What opportunities does roof insulation provide?

The reason for the appearance of significant heat loss is natural air exchange and heat radiation. As the air heats up, it rises. This causes the ceiling to warm up, which can be very cold if the roof is not sufficiently insulated. If there is no thermal insulation, a lot of heat will be required. Moreover, this process will take place continuously.

Competently made roof insulation will allow not only to maintain the temperature in the living room at the desired level, but also significantly increase the durability of the rafters and beams used in the construction of the roof.

This is achieved by eliminating the ingress of moisture into the attic, which inevitably leads to rotting of the wooden structure. As a result, the bearing capacity of beams and rafters is sharply reduced, and roof repairs have to be carried out every 3-4 years.

Insulation - mineral wool

The presence of an insulated roof will not only keep the heat in cold weather, but also save from overheating in the hot season. That is why it is quite comfortable in a wooden house when the sweltering heat is on the street.

In addition, roof insulation quite often allows you to significantly expand useful residential assistance. After all, even a very cold room can be made warm in this way, and this must be used to improve your living conditions.

When is it better to insulate the roof?

It is worth starting to insulate the roof only after the shrinkage of the new log house occurs. As a rule, this takes about six months on average. During this time, various defects may appear on the roof, among the most common in this case are all kinds of distortions, cracks. It is necessary to eliminate them even before starting work. In this case, the insulation will be of high quality.

If we talk about seasonality, then it all depends on your personal preferences. Most often, the roof is insulated in the summer, and in the winter the quality of the work performed is checked.

What kind of insulation to give preference to?

Modern heaters are different:

• fire safety;
• excellent thermal insulation properties;
• low weight;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation;
• versatility, which allows you to use the same material for insulating different roofing systems;
• long service life.

Manufacturers offer a fairly large assortment. In this case, delivery can be made in the form of mats, roll material and in bulk. If you wish, you can always choose the appropriate option for the price factor. In particular, you can insulate the roof using:

The choice of a specific material will depend on the type of roof to be insulated and the financial capabilities available. If you decide to purchase a cotton material, it is better to choose one in the characteristics of which it is indicated that it is hydrophobic. This means that during the production process the insulation was treated with a special compound that prevents moisture absorption.

It is also worth paying attention to the flammability group. For expanded polystyrene, group G1 is preferred. This will not sustain combustion away from an open flame source.

How is a pitched roof insulated?

Pitched roof

This type of roof is characterized by a fairly large area, which leads to the possibility of a large heat loss in the cold season. Especially if the house has an attic floor. Therefore, it is advisable to take care of the thermal insulation device even at the stage of building a house. But if this has not been done or the efficiency of thermal insulation is not high enough, the work can be done in a residential building without resorting to large-scale dismantling of roof structures.

To do this, the presence and integrity of the waterproofing layer is checked, which is traditionally placed between the roof and the rafters during the construction of the house. In its absence, you will have to purchase a special hydro-barrier film that is able to retain water, but at the same time allows steam to pass through. It is also necessary to ensure that the rafters are wrapped with a hydro-barrier film, attaching it with a stapler to the rafters on the right side. In this case, the upper layer will prevent moisture penetration, and the lower one will not impede the removal of steam and moisture.

Now you can start laying the insulation. Preference should be given to roll material and material supplied in the form of plates. Place it between the rafters using light pressure and avoiding gaps. However, it is imperative that a small layer for air circulation should remain between the insulation and the roofing material - blowing. It is she who will prevent strong heating of the attic in the summer. You can fix the slabs using:

• ordinary nylon cord;
• rails packed perpendicular to the rafters.

After laying the insulation, you can proceed with the vapor barrier device. To do this, you need to purchase a special vapor barrier film, which will need to be laid on top of the thermal insulation, attaching it to the rafters. As a result, the heat insulator will be provided with an optimal humidity regime, which guarantees its long service life. If necessary, finishing work can be performed if the attic space is adapted for living.

How is a flat roof insulated?

Insulation of a flat roof can be performed not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Moreover, the latter option, as a rule, is sufficient to create an optimal microclimate in the house.

The sequence of work in this case is as follows:

• a vapor-proof film is being laid;
• insulation is laid or poured;
• it is laid and glued with a resin-based mastic, a roll-up covering based on synthetic materials or roofing felt. This layer provides protection against moisture penetration;
• bulk material is laid.

Who will do the job?

If you do not want to perform roof insulation in a wooden house yourself, you can invite a team of experienced builders who have been working in this industry for a long time. They will be able to perform the required complex of works in the shortest possible time, ensuring high quality performance.

If the budget is limited, then choosing between the purchase of high-quality modern materials and independent roof insulation, it is better to choose the first option. Maybe in this case it will take a little more time, but the materials to be laid will have unique properties that allow them to keep warm in a wooden house for a long time. In addition, the progress of work can be monitored continuously.

A house built and equipped with his own hands is the real pride of any owner. An integral stage in the arrangement of any residential building is the internal insulation of the roof. And if in most cases there are no problems with the thermal insulation of the walls, then the insulation of the roofing structure can introduce an unprepared master into bewilderment. Therefore, before proceeding with the practical part, study all the theoretical recommendations proposed below.

After the installation of the insulation and all related elements, the roofing system will look like a layered "cake". The structure is based on a rafter system. All other elements are laid on it and fixed.

Modern roofing "pie"

In the classic version, the layers of the pie, starting from the final roofing, are placed as follows:

• roof covering;
• lathing for mounting finishing material. Can be solid or sparse;
• counter-lattice bars. Needed to create a ventilation gap under the roofing material;
• waterproofing film;
• thermal insulation material;
• vapor barrier material;
• lathing for the installation of insulating materials and inner lining;
• lining material.

A properly equipped roofing cake will significantly reduce heat loss in cold weather and prevent overheating of the roof space in hot weather. Waterproofing will protect the insulation from atmospheric moisture, and the vapor barrier material will prevent the formation of condensation and the appearance of all related problems.

How to insulate?

There is a huge range of materials on the modern market that can be successfully used for internal roof insulation. Try to avoid excessive savings - materials must be of high quality.

Heater parameters

When choosing a suitable insulation, you need to pay attention to a number of basic characteristics of the material, namely:

• weight. The heavier the insulation, the more significant the load it will exert on the roof. This imposes a number of additional requirements for rafters and lathing - their configuration and strength must correspond to the characteristics of thermal insulation;
• thermal conductivity. It is better that this parameter be as low as possible, if possible not more than 0.04 W / m * C;
• resistance to adverse external influences.

Preferred insulation

Not too many materials meet the above requirements. Among all the existing insulation options, professionals recommend giving preference to mineral wool heat insulators and foam panels. All other things being equal, mineral wool is more preferable.

Additional insulating materials

In combination with insulation, the roof will need to be additionally insulated with the use of steam and moisture insulating materials. Polyethylene and roofing felt are usually used for waterproofing the roof. These materials are excellently resistant to moisture.

The vapor barrier layer is best equipped with special membranes, glassine or modern foil materials.

Regardless of the chosen insulation (installation is still carried out in the same sequence), in the process of performing the work, you must adhere to a number of basic recommendations, without which you can not count on high-quality internal insulation of the roof.

All the rules can be combined into one summary of tips, namely:

Thus, even before starting the performance of thermal insulation work, the master needs to study a fairly large amount of information and remember a number of important requirements. The work should be done as efficiently as possible. Correctly equipped insulation will make living in the house as comfortable as possible and will significantly reduce the cost of heating the premises.

Use the recommendations received and remember: you need to insulate with the obligatory installation of a vapor barrier and moisture protection layers. Only such a complex will allow obtaining a reliable, durable and resistant to any adverse external influences roofing system. It’s better to do everything right away and live in a safe house than to patch holes in the roofing pie after every heavy rain.

Preparation for roof insulation

The order of insulation remains almost the same regardless of the type of roof, materials used and other points. Having dealt with the main points of thermal insulation work, you can successfully apply them in practice.

First of all, carefully prepare the roof for the upcoming internal insulation.

First step. Examine the rafter system. If you find rotten or damaged parts, replace them with new parts.

Step two. Treat all wood elements with an antiseptic.

Step three. Check the condition of pipelines and electrical wiring if these communications are laid under the roof.

Roof Insulation Guide

Start to work on the internal insulation of the roof. The event is held in several stages. Go through each of them sequentially, not forgetting the previously received recommendations.

It is assumed that the rafters, lathing and other necessary elements have already been installed and you just have to mount the insulating materials, and then lay the finishing roofing.

The first step is vapor barrier

Lay the foil with a 10 cm overlap. It is convenient to use a construction stapler with staples to attach the vapor barrier to the bars. Tape all joints twice with duct tape. Be especially careful and careful when sealing various difficult areas, such as joints between the film and pipes, walls and other structural elements.

The second step is insulation

EKOTEPLIN - roof insulation

Place the selected insulation in the crate cells. Usually, the crate is assembled with the expectation that the step between its bars is a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation, so you can place the insulation boards as tightly as possible. Directly the lathing bars should be nailed to the rafters perpendicular to them.

If you really want to, you can do without the lathing - you stuff nails along the edges of the rafter legs and pull the wire between them. She will hold the insulation plates. However, it is better not to give up the crate - it is safer with it.

The insulation itself is usually laid in 2 layers. In this case, the upper layer must be laid with a certain displacement in relation to the lower one - it is impossible that the joints of the insulation plates of both layers coincide.

The third step is waterproofing

Place the waterproofing film so that it completely overlaps the insulation, battens and rafters. To fix the film, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Remove the waterproofing under the roof overhang - this will create the conditions necessary for efficient water drainage in the future.

In the end, you just have to put the selected roofing material on the roof.

Thus, although independent internal roof insulation is a very important and responsible event, there is nothing super complicated in its implementation. Do everything in accordance with the instructions, and very soon your house will become truly cozy and warm, and heating costs in the cold season will significantly decrease.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself roof insulation from the inside

When building or renovating a private house, arranging the roof is one of the most important stages. If it is improperly designed, then precipitation will accumulate on it, which will be an unnecessary load and will contribute to damage to the roofing material. If you lay the roof incorrectly, then moisture will get into the seams and over time it will flow into the house, and if you do not insulate the roof from the inside, then the cold air will very quickly enter the room and will not allow it to be fully heated by any means, that is, to live in such conditions round year will be impossible.

Physical factors: impact

Any house that is used for housing must meet certain requirements in order to live in it cozy and comfortable. It is important to lay the foundation correctly so that the house does not shrink or crack, insulate it and erect a roof. The choice of coverage is very important, since it determines the weight that applies to the house, the time to complete the floor work and the cost. In addition to all this, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the inner side of the roof, so that the structure of the house remains as reliable as possible, and the residents feel comfortable at any time of the year.

In different climatic conditions, various factors affect buildings.

For our latitudes, the following will be characteristic:

• precipitation in the form of rain;
• snow, groats and similar phenomena;
• hail;
• icing of the roof;
• active sun;
• strong wind.

To withstand all these negative factors, the roof must be covered with sufficiently dense materials that can reliably protect the house for many years.

A private house is a structure that consists of a main floor and an attic. If the roof is not insulated, then through the ceiling up to 15% of the heat leaves the room in cold weather, which makes it necessary to intensively heat the rooms. In addition, having an insulated attic, this space, if desired, can be made residential and used as rooms for a specific purpose. In a large family, this is ideal.

Processes inside

In order to properly insulate a private house and make the roof a full-fledged protective mechanism for both the main room and the attic, you need to be able to choose the right material for insulation. Usually, the selection is based on the physical processes taking place inside, under the roof.

The most important are several.

• Heat exchange, which occurs due to different temperatures in the house and outside. If the roof is not insulated, then some of the heat escapes through the roof, and the insulation prevents this process and maintains the optimal temperature in the room.
• Moisture exchange, which arises from the person himself, his breathing, vapors from body temperature to cooking processes, when vapors rise to the ceiling, carrying particles of moisture that are removed through the roof. If the roof is insulated, the humidity level remains optimal and unwanted odors can be removed with ventilation.

When insulating the roof, you can protect yourself from temperature changes inside the room, because the insulation has its own temperature, which is often slightly higher than that on the street, and does not allow the heat of the building to escape outside, which will eliminate the need for additional heating, which requires reserve funds.

Insulation layer helps avoid condensation, which is formed upon contact of hot and cold air, therefore laying it together with a heater will help preserve its appearance and performance. Correctly performed work increases the service life of the building almost twice and minimizes the need for repair work every year.

Necessity or whim?

A private home often has a pitched roof that forms an attic space over the main residential floor. If there is no insulation, then living in such conditions will be very uncomfortable due to the lack of heat in the cold season. If the attic is made in the form of a residential floor - the same attic, then the insulation process should be mandatory.

Any roofing material will not be able to protect as well as foam, mineral wool or other types of coatings. In addition to the insulation itself, it is important to use a vapor barrier film that will cope with all kinds of fumes.

If you ignore the installation of an insulation coating, then in addition to the cold in the house, problems with the roof rafter system will begin very soon, which will rot and there will be a risk of collapse. The same effect can be observed with the wrong installation technology or inaccurate choice of insulation. If you choose the wrong thickness of the insulation, then instead of protection, the opposite effect will be provided. Under normal conditions, with a temperature difference, protection against condensation and heat removal is carried out, which makes it possible to feel comfortable in any weather.

If the thickness is broken and a thin insulation is selected, then an excessively large amount of condensation will form on it, which will contribute to the rapid decay of the rafters and the violation of the microclimate of the room.

Failure to comply with standards is dangerous for both health and safetyas the roof structure could collapse. The choice of material that needs to be insulated depends on a wide variety of factors that are important to consider in order to be able to independently establish what you need. If there are difficulties with the choice of insulation or its installation, it is better to turn to professionals and get comprehensive advice and assistance in installation.

Roof Pie: What Is It?

A properly constructed roof involves a large number of layers of different materials that are stacked on top of each other, which resembles a pie - hence the name. The basis of the construction "pie" is the rafters, on which all other layers are already being laid.

In order to correctly lay out all the layers, it is important to know their correct sequence, which looks like this:

• Roof.
• The lathing on which the installation of finishing materials will be carried out. It can be laid flat or with gaps.
• Counter-lattice in the form of bars, which serves to ventilate the space under the roof itself.
• Waterproofing film.
• Materials for thermal insulation.
• A layer of material for vapor barrier.
• Creation of the lathing, where the insulating materials and inner lining are mounted.
• Internal cladding material.

If you lay the "pie" correctly, you can avoid the loss of heat from the living space in the cold season, and it will also help from overheating the space in intense heat. The waterproofing layer will help protect the insulation from moisture coming from the outside, and the vapor barrier will protect against all kinds of fumes.

Pitched roof - a fairly common type, therefore, it will not be difficult for her to find all the necessary materials. A positive aspect of high attics is the convenience of insulating them and the ability to equip a full-fledged living space.

It will be extremely unpleasant to be in it without additional work - it is very cold in winter and too hot in summer.

Requirements for materials and their functions

To carry out quality work, you must choose the right materials. It will depend on them how accurately it will turn out to make comfortable living conditions and secure the roof supports. The choice will depend on the region where the building is located, its size, purpose, as well as the funds that are available for the purchase of materials.

There are four main methods of insulation.

• Use of mineral wool, which is the most commonly used material due to its properties. It is best to purchase the basalt variety. It is desirable to obtain a quality certificate in the store in order to know for sure that the products are safe and meet all norms and standards. There are varieties that are lighter in weight, they are suitable for work in conditions of independent insulation of the room. The positive qualities of cotton wool can be considered a non-combustible composition and a repulsion of moisture, which corresponds to the main task of this layer. In addition, rodents do not like it, which means that you do not have to worry that someone may start in the house, especially on the roof.

Of the minuses, a rather high cost can be noted, but it is fully compensated by the positive aspects.

• The use of glass wool. Some time ago, this material was considered the main one for roof insulation, but because of some dangerous properties, safer analogues were found very soon. The thermal insulation of the glass wool is not bad and the efficiency is very high. When working with such material, it is very important to follow all safety rules, namely to use a protective suit, gloves, glasses. It is important to close the nasopharynx and eyes so that no pieces of glass dust get into them.

People with allergies will not be able to live in such a house, so you need to be able to choose the right type of internal insulation coating.

• Polymeric roof insulation- these are special tiles made of polystyrene and expanded polystyrene. They have both advantages and disadvantages. This is an inexpensive option, because anyone can afford it, but if you understand the cons, then you should think carefully about purchasing such insulation. These materials are highly flammable, and when they burn, they emit a large amount of smoke, which is very dangerous for humans.

Typically, this type is resorted to when other options cannot be used.

• Warming with expanded clay. This material is very often used for floor insulation and has good thermal insulation properties, but it is very difficult to use it for the roof due to the heavy installation. Usually only experienced workers can cope with it to make the internal insulation of the ceiling in the house.

If we consider alternative options, then among them there is polyurethane foam, which can be used in two states - in the form of plates and foam. It is advisable not to take plates for arranging the ceiling, because it is inconvenient to work with them and they have a very high cost. At the same time, liquid or foamed polyurethane is easy to apply and has a number of advantages. It can be used to fill voids of any shape and size, cracks and lines of openings are very well clogged. If the rest of the materials need to be cut and to achieve maximum fit, then in this case the foam itself lays down, the main thing is to distribute it correctly and evenly.

It is very convenient to use foam for slate roofs or broken structureswhen there are many drops on the roof and the frame has significant differences. Another significant advantage can be considered autonomy from hydro and thermal insulation, which are not needed for polyurethane foam. In addition, the material has excellent anti-flammability performance, which ensures the safety of the home.

How to choose?

When choosing a material for insulation, it is important to understand what exactly is worth paying attention to, which indicators will play a decisive role in the selection of a particular type.

The main criteria are:

• Mass of material. Heavy insulation will serve as an additional mass for the house itself, which will affect both the roof rafters and the building as a whole. If the house is built of high-quality bricks or foam blocks, then reinforced insulation can be allowed, but in this case, the rafters need to be made more powerful so that they can withstand a lot of weight.
• Thermal conductivity index. The lower the numbers, the better for the roofing material. If the indicator is approximately equal to 0.04 W / m * s, then this will be the best option.
• Indicator of resistance to adverse environmental factors.
• The density of the material, which affects the heat transfer of the material. If the density is low, the porosity of the insulation increases, which reduces thermal conductivity and leads to an increase in thermal insulation properties.

• Ability to absorb moisture. In order to repel moisture, any insulation can be treated with a hydrophobic substance. Some materials are already sold with this impregnation.
• Flammability indicators, which is the most important factor for arranging a roof.
• The ability to resist low temperature levels.
• Resistant to chemical elements.
• Environmental friendliness of the material.

Having considered all these indicators, the best option would be to use mineral and glass wool. Glass and mineral wool is sold in the form of rolls or slabs. It is safer to insulate with mineral wool, because it is more resistant to fire.

If we consider modern insulation, the most progressive technology will be the roof sheathing with foam flex. It is a sturdy and lightweight unit that can be easily installed on any surface, be it a wall or ceiling. You can cut off the desired piece with an ordinary knife.

In addition, the storage conditions of penoflex, which can be outside at any temperature, are also distinctive, but it is better to have packaging on it.

It is convenient to use polystyrene foam, which is also called penoplex, in rooms with unfavorable conditions, because it is not afraid of them, and various microorganisms will not begin to develop in it. A very important feature is the environmental friendliness of this insulation. It does not emit any harmful odors and vapors and is completely harmless to both adults and children.

Training

To carry out insulation procedures, it is important to clearly understand which roof you have to work with. Having correctly determined the order of work, you can quickly and efficiently insulate the roof. It is worth considering the materials that will be at hand during work. It is important to clearly understand for yourself what exactly you have to work with and what to do.

If the process of warming has become fully understood, then you can cope with absolutely any roof, be it at a rural house or a large villa by the sea. In order to carry out insulation work, it is important to prepare the roof itself for this.

There is a specific procedure for this, which includes:

• inspection of the rafter system so that damaged boards can be identified in time and replaced;
• processing of wooden structures with an antiseptic;
• check of communications, if they are located under the roof. This applies to piping and wiring.

As soon as the roof is ready, you need to check the availability of all the materials with which the insulation will be made, prepare the tools, and only after that you can get to work. The workflow has its own rules and patterns that you need to know in order not to make mistakes and get a good and high-quality result.

Step by step process: how to do it?

In order for the work to proceed quickly and efficiently, it is important to prepare well, read articles on the topic, watch videos in order to clearly see what is being done and why in the process of work on the internal insulation of the roof.

The algorithm of work is reduced to four points.

• Installation of a waterproofing layer. This task should be done at the time of covering with roofing material. The waterproofing is installed along the rafters so that there is little sagging. Slate house involves laying this material immediately for insulation. It is important to install the waterproofing correctly - its smooth side should be on top. The strips of material must be sealed with tape so that gaps do not form over time. Only after that counter-rails are stuffed onto the rafters, to which the sheathing will be installed. On the finished boards and you need to lay the roofing material.
• Installation of thermal insulation. It is important to select an insulating mat with the required thickness and place it between the rafters. The material is laid in a spacer or on a rough filing, which is made of small-width slats, fishing line and rope, which are fastened with nails to the rafters. Insulation mats take up free space, and excess pieces are cut out.

If you need to insulate the room with the highest quality, the mats are stacked, shifting to the side with each row.

• Placement of the vapor barrier layer.This material consists of a smooth side, which is placed towards the insulation, and a rougher one, which is directed towards the building itself and carries out a collection of steam emissions from the room. Laying such a film is an important point for its full-fledged work. The installation process takes place with a stapler. In this case, you can do without counter-lattice, but it is important to glue all joints with adhesive tape.
• The process of installing profiles and guide bars.These materials serve as the basis for the installation of decorative elements and ventilation, which is necessary for the correct operation of insulation.

The technology of work will be similar, be it a summer cottage, where the house has a flat floor, or a large country house, where a gable roof is built. The correct choice of materials and installation in the right sequence will give the desired result.

Attic floors

When choosing insulation for an attic floor, you need to take into account its thermal protection, strength and stable qualities in relation to adverse environmental phenomena. It is important to consider the type of floor, the material from which it is made. Concrete with wood has its own characteristics.

The process of installing insulation depends on the materialif it is mineral wool, then it is better to use thick layers (about 20 cm), but if there is a desire to create increased thermal insulation, you can increase the thickness to 30 cm. The wool is laid only after the vapor barrier has been placed. It is best to lay it under an overlap made of boards or timber so that they do not absorb moisture and do not rot. If you could not put a solid piece of vapor barrier, you need to glue it with tape.

After that, work begins with insulation, which is placed in a wooden frame so as to fill all the free spaces. Once the mineral wool has been placed, the waterproofing is laid on top to prevent the wool from absorbing excess wool. It is especially important to do this if the next step is to pour concrete, when the 2nd floor is planned in the building. Instead of concrete, you can make a flooring from OSB slabs. This is how you can insulate the attic and, if desired, make it a living space.

Stingrays

You can insulate the slopes in various ways, the choice of which depends on the design of the rafters, their height and the skills of the one who will work with the surface.

There are only three options for insulating a pitched roof:

• with thermal insulation, which is located between the rafters, the frame must be flush with the insulation;
• with thermal insulation between and above the rafters, the frame is wrapped on all sides with insulation;
• with thermal insulation between and under the rafters, the frame is not insulated.

It is best to insulate a pitched roof with mineral wool mats or fiberglass backing. The roof can be installed both from the inside and outside. Only the layers and their stacking order will differ. During internal work, the roof is insulated with a waterproofing layer, on which the insulation material itself is already laid, and after that a vapor barrier tape is stretched.

A sloping roof is a special structure that needs to be properly insulated., especially if the whole procedure is done by hand. Knowing the technology and the correct arrangement of the layers, you can get a high-quality roofing covering that will protect the house from heat loss and moisture penetration and help create a comfortable microclimate inside.

Flat roof: features of work

If there is a need to insulate a flat roof, then the installation of the appropriate materials is often done after the roof is installed. Work is carried out indoors, and after their completion, the ceiling height is significantly reduced, which is a tangible disadvantage with all the other advantages.

Before starting work, it is important to think over exactly how the attic will be illuminated.

We insulate a flat roof by stuffing bars along the entire length of the room, after which they need to be divided into squares, in which the thermal insulation material will be placed. You can hold it in the cells with a cord or gluing to the surface, which is less desirable. The cord can be removed when all the gaps are covered with foam, which will hold the insulation in place.

The first layer should always be a heat-insulating layer, and the last one - a vapor barrier, which in total will give the necessary result of a dry and warm roof. If you do not use protective layers, then the insulation will very soon become unusable and cease to perform its functions.

When the work with the insulation is over, you need to pay attention to the wiring. If it is present there, only then proceed with the installation of lamps and decorative finishing of the room.

If the attic is presented as a large and cold room, you can use different kinds of insulation, after which you can live in this room. It is possible to install thermal insulation material both during the construction of the roof and after that. If the roof is already covered with slate or other material, then the work is done from the inside, which changes the location of the layers during the installation of the insulation.

The cost of maintaining the house depends on how the roof is insulated. In particular, in winter, an uninsulated roof makes itself felt especially strongly: everyone knows that warm air always rises up; in contact with the cold roofing, it cools down, or through the existing gaps it leaves the room, due to which the heat loss of the wooden house increases significantly. On the other hand, in the summer, the indoor air is heated by the sun-hot roof. As a result, the house becomes a huge greenhouse, and you, if you have an air conditioner, will experience a significant increase in electricity costs.

In any case, the non-insulated roof, as well as the non-insulated floor, makes it difficult for the whole family to enjoy comfortable living in a wooden house.

What to do with a non-insulated roof?

Insulate, of course! And it will be better if you do this during the construction phase of your home. If you have made a decision to insulate the roof in your country house, we suggest that you adopt an excellent method of insulating the roof, or order this work in the Keil Stroy company. We will do everything quickly and, most importantly, with high quality!

How to insulate the roof in a wooden house?

We will describe the method of roof insulation that we use in frame houses and houses from profiled timber. It is similar to floor insulation in a wooden house, with the difference that the “sandwich” of roof insulation, when viewed from the room, will turn upside down and will include ceiling decoration / vapor barrier / thermal insulation / wind protection.

Roof insulation technology

Step one. Wind protection.

In houses built by our company, the wind-water protection device takes place at the stage of installing the rafter system, so we go straight to the second step. If it is absent in your house, then its installation is similar to the installation of wind protection when insulating floors.

Step two. Thermal insulation.

Between the boards of the truss system, 3 layers of mineral wool are laid, which has a very low thermal conductivity. We put the sheets of insulation very tightly and with an overlap, with an offset of 1/3. This is to prevent cold air from passing between the sheets.

Step three. Installation of the direction change bar.

The bars are attached to the rafter system across the rafters, with a step for the width of the insulation. This is necessary to prevent the appearance of even the smallest cold bridges.

Step four. Reversal of the insulation.

Place the insulation turned 90 degrees between the direction change bars.

Step five. Vapor barrier.

To protect the insulation from saturation with water vapor from inside the room, it is necessary to mount a vapor barrier. Keil Stroy uses special materials during operation - a vapor barrier membrane (IZOSPAN V or similar material). The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 150-200 mm with a slight approach to the walls and is attached to the bars of the direction change. If any gaps or joints appear, they must be sealed with a special connecting tape or metallized tape.

Step six. Ventilation.

In order for the space between the ceiling and the insulation to be blown through, it is necessary to arrange a ventilation gap. To do this, you need to take a board with a thickness of 25 mm and attach it to the direction change bars. After that, you can start finishing the ceiling with finishing materials.

Roof insulation completed!

Notes:

1. Remember that the final thickness of the insulation depends on the type of insulation, the climatic conditions of the region and is calculated for each house individually.
2. This article describes a way to insulate the roof, in the case of a wooden house with an attic or residential attic. If you have a house with a non-residential attic, you need to insulate the floor between the living quarters and the attic in this way.

You might be interested.

How to insulate the floor in your country house? Check out our article "Insulation of floors in a wooden house"!

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Phased device

Preparatory work
Wooden houses have a peculiarity: they cannot be insulated immediately after construction. Wait until the log shrinks. As a rule, it takes about a half-angle. This time can be set aside for the completion of roofing and finishing works.

With properly executed thermal insulation, an additional room can be obtained from the attic.

How to insulate the roof of a private house: basic requirements for thermal insulation

The roof of the house, which performs protective functions, is used in difficult conditions of air humidity and regular temperature fluctuations. Therefore, taking into account the above factors, a good insulation should:

• have a simple mount,
• have high thermal insulation performance,
• be versatile (suitable for any roofing system),
• have a long operational life,
• have high fire resistance and resistance to fire,
• be affordable.

Thus, for thermal insulation of the roof, special materials are used that have low thermal conductivity and sufficient moisture resistance.


Roof insulation technology allows the use of various heaters. Among the most optimal in terms of insulating characteristics, fire safety and versatility of use, glass and mineral wool can be distinguished. Plus they are affordable. They are produced in rolls or mats, so they can be easily cut to the desired size, according to the distance between the rafters. Moreover, they are moisture resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and provide sound insulation.

It is also possible to insulate the Izoverom roof. It is practical, lightweight and inexpensive. Its high resistance to moisture prevents the material from dissolving or deforming in water. This species has a very low thermal conductivity. Due to its low weight, installation does not require any special efforts.

Another heat insulator that is used for insulation is liquid insulation. It allows you to perform all thermal insulation work quickly, accurately, efficiently. These materials, in addition to thermal insulation qualities, also have waterproofing properties.

stylekrov.ru

• Preparatory work
• We start insulation
• Pitched roof insulation
• Outcome of work

Preparatory work

It is impossible to insulate the roof immediately after the end of construction; it is necessary to give the house some time to shrink. All finishing works must be certified by this period, as well as roofing. This usually takes no more than six months, during this period of time, various cracks and other defects may appear that must be eliminated. There are several most common work options:

Insulation of the attic floor.

House ceiling insulation.

In the presence of an attic, work is carried out in an integrated manner.

Materials used for roof insulation in a wooden house

With the right approach, you can make the attic space additional housing, even if it was not originally planned. The main thing is to choose the right approach and make good insulation.

Thermal insulation material must meet the following requirements:

Durability;

Versatility - this will allow it to be used for various roofing systems;

Possess thermal insulation qualities;

Easy to install;

Be fire resistant;

Have a reasonable price.

Best suited for these parameters is a material specially developed for these purposes - mineral wool. It gains its qualities due to the many positive qualities of fiberglass. In retail and wholesale networks, you can find both rolls and mats. Preference should be given to mats that are easy to transport and easy to lay. They fit well and easily fit into the space between the rafters. The material is suitable for a long service life and has excellent sound insulation properties.

The disadvantage of roof insulation with mineral wool is its weak resistance to water. If the roof starts to leak and the material comes into contact with moisture, then it will lose most of its properties, which will require replacement.

Recently, you can find such a material as extruded polystyrene. Styling it will allow you to kill two birds with one stone. Firstly, by laying only 15 centimeters of insulation, we provide the norm. Secondly, the material itself is excellent waterproofing. And even if the roof starts to leak, moisture simply rolls down it, without getting inside. The disadvantage of polystyrene is its cost, an expensive pleasure.

The most disadvantageous option would be foam. It does not withstand high temperatures well and does not meet many requirements.

We start insulation

How to insulate the roof of a wooden house if it is covered with metal tiles? You probably know about the hum that occurs when water falls in the rain. In order to avoid this, it is recommended to use a special soundproofing film, it will get rid of noise and provide comfort. Foamed polyethylene, penofol or ordinary waterproofing can play its role. This event will also be useful in that it will allow you to get rid of condensation. Which can appear during temperature changes and fall out in the form of dew.

In already operated houses, roof insulation from the inside will be the best option for residents. Before starting insulation, it should be clearly determined whether the attic will be a residential area or not. If so, then work should be carried out on the insulation of the entire roof, which will significantly increase the consumption of material in general. All wood must be treated with an antiseptic, and broken parts must be replaced or repaired.

When insulating the attic floor with a material such as mineral wool, it should be remembered that it crumbles and you are unlikely to want to breathe its particles, which through the cracks in the ceiling will directly enter the room when laying the material on the base.
To prevent this process, you can use any suitable material, for example glassine - light paper impregnated with bituminous fractions. We lay it on the base and only after that we lay a layer of insulation. For reliability, you can fix it with a stapler or other fastening device. It will prevent particles of material from entering the gaps between the subfloor. It does not place a layer of waterproofing material on top, which will not allow the material to fail when moisture enters. After which it is all sewn up with a floorboard.

Pitched roof insulation

The first step is to lay the waterproofing layer. If the house is residential, then perhaps it already exists between the rafters and the elements of the roof. If not, you will have to allocate time for her device. For such purposes, a waterproofing film that is capable of retaining steam is perfect. All structures, without exception, are wrapped around it and, for reliability, are fixed with a stapler. Following this, we put on top of the warming material. Usually mineral wool plays its role. The total thickness of the insulation for the roof should not be less than 10 centimeters and also should not exceed the thickness of the rafters. The material should fit snugly on the sides, no gaps should be left. For greater reliability, you can fix it with a nylon cord or rails.

Following this, we attach the vapor barrier layer and also attach it to the rafters. This is where the insulation work ends, but it will not be superfluous to refine the attic by finishing with plasterboard or other material.

The technology of insulating the attic roof is in many ways similar to the insulation of a conventional roof. The only difference is that the walls are pulled close to the roof, in some variations they are one piece. That is why the room is quickly cooled in winter and heats up in summer. The circuit itself is a complex pie:

• Waterproofing

  Ventilation gap

  Thermal insulation

  Vapor barrier

Outcome of work

After the work carried out, we receive an insulated roof of the house, which will not allow warm air to escape. As you know, hot air rises upwards, which means that it is the insulation of the roof that will achieve the best results for its preservation. Do not forget that if you choose mineral wool or other material unstable to moisture, then you should take good care of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layer. All cracks and holes between braces must be filled with tow or other heat-insulating material. It is possible to use ordinary polyurethane foam. In the role of insulation for the roof of the house, you should choose only high-quality material that meets the requirements.

When insulating the floor of the attic, a small gap should be left between the material and the board. This will reduce the formation of condensation and extend the life of the mineral wool.

It is not advisable to carry out roofing work in cloudy work, the probability of wetting the material increases, which will disable it.

Video plot about the roof insulation of a wooden house:

karkasnik.su

The choice of insulation for the roof

When building or overhauling a house, one of the first thoughts that every normal owner has is how you can insulate the house (in our case, the roof) and which of the materials offered on the market is more suitable in a particular case.

Let's put everything on the shelves and find out the main pros and cons of existing roofing insulation:

1. The first thing that the roofing insulation market offers us is wadded mats and wadded boards.... They can be made on the basis of mineral or fiberglass;
   • Glass wool is considered the patriarch here. The characteristics of glass wool are very mediocre; of the advantages, one can single out low thermal conductivity and affordable cost. But the density of such mats is not high, which means that you will have to buy more material.
     It cakes quickly and is very afraid of moisture; when it gets wet, you just need to change it. But the most unpleasant thing about glass wool is the installation procedure, such a fiber is capable of digging into the skin with hundreds of small glass needles. If you do not wrap yourself in tight overalls, glasses and gloves, you will itch for a long time;

• It is much more pleasant to work with various types of mineral wool. In addition to soft mats, the material is produced in the form of medium and high density boards. The price of mineral insulation is slightly higher, but it is not necessary to protect the skin and eyes so much during installation.
  Of course, any cotton wool is afraid of moisture, this is its Achilles' heel, but dense mineral slabs under favorable conditions can be dried and operated further. In addition, it should be noted that thin-fiber wadded insulation, in any form, is one of the few absolutely non-combustible materials.

1. The next contenders for high-quality roofing insulation are the well-known foam plastic and its newfangled counterpart extruded polystyrene foam:
   • Extruded polystyrene foam is distinguished by its fantastic mechanical strength, lightness and absolute waterproofness compared to other insulation materials. Such a coating does not actually need waterproofing.
     On the one hand, when insulating flat concrete floors or a mansard with forced ventilation, this is great. But on the other hand, such vapor-tight structures require additional under-roof ventilation, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the sheets;

• With foam, everything is a little simpler - the price for it is half the price. If you look at laboratory data, then the level of thermal conductivity in foam and extruded polystyrene foam is about the same, but I can add from myself, to achieve the same results, you need to take foam plates one third thicker than the plates of its extruded counterpart. Plus foam, although not as strong, but it has moderate vapor permeability, which is better for roofing work.

1. Quite often, advanced modern owners of old houses, in order not to disassemble the roof completely, prefer to insulate the roof from the inside of a wooden house using foam materials. At the moment, the market offers 3 main foam options:
   • The so-called penoizol, in fact, is a liquid version of foam boards. If we put aside the advertising tinsel, then I do not see much of a difference, except that the liquid version comes out significantly more expensive and is applied without gaps;

• Polyurethane foam is a new and very high quality foam insulation. It has a fairly high strength and is not afraid of moisture. Plus, manufacturers claim that such foam, under normal use, can serve up to 70 years. At least they give a guarantee for 50 years;

• Since we are deciding which is better to take insulation for the roof in a wooden house, it will not be superfluous to recall the popular nowadays ecowool. This is a foam fiber insulation made on the basis of cellulose and, in fact, a product of recycled paper, that is, recyclable materials. Ecowool is certainly not as expensive as polyurethane foam, but it also costs decent. It is suitable for people who decide to build a house from environmentally friendly materials by all means.

Each of the above foams provides the tightest and most uniform application layer. There will be no gaps, cracks or cold bridges. But the problem is that the instruction there requires the participation of expensive special equipment, without it you will not do anything with your own hands.

1. In our list, you can not miss loose, environmentally friendly insulation. On the Internet, I saw a lot of different proposals, from the use of fallen leaves or hay, to insulation with fir cones. But seriously, at the moment there are only 2 really working options:
   • The most common in this niche is expanded clay warming. Expanded clay is a special kind of clay that is foamed and fired in special ovens. The material is strong, durable and non-flammable. The only flaw is hygroscopicity. Porous granules are able to easily absorb moisture, although they also give it away easily;

• In addition to expanded clay, ordinary sawdust is still widely used as insulation. Just do not try to fill in fresh sawdust in its pure form. First, they must lie down for a year, and then, in order to use them in bulk, they must be mixed with fluff (loose slaked lime) in a ratio of 8: 2 (sawdust / lime). Or make slabs from sawdust, there the calculation will be 9: 1: 1 (sawdust / lime / cement), here, of course, you still have to add a little water and, after mixing, pour the mixture into suitable forms until completely dry.

Roof insulation options

In this case, we do not need to compare, what is better than a wooden one, for example, a brick private house. After all, the insulation of the roof of a private house, whether it is single or gable, is absolutely no different. The rafters in both cases are wooden and the structures are assembled in the same way.

Gable roof insulation technology

Whatever structure you equip, you need to start from the fact that the movement of steam in the house goes in the direction from the inner space to the street. And if at any stage you decide to put a waterproof barrier, moisture will surely accumulate in this place, so you need to immediately think about how to remove it from there.

To begin with, let's consider the technology of arranging a roofing cake in its pure form, that is, since the roof is insulated during construction. Suppose that we have a gable or sloping overlap for an attic with a cross-section of 50x150 mm load-bearing rafters, which are installed with a step of about 50 - 70 cm.

Under such conditions, vapor-permeable slab insulation is most often used. In the economy version, these will be soft cotton mats, but it is much easier to work with dense slabs of basalt wool, or at worst, you can take foam.

From experience I can say that while the finishing layer of the roof is not mounted and the rafters are "bare" it will be more convenient to lay the cake from the bottom up. A vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the rafters first. It is easiest to "shoot" it with a stippler, you can fasten it without fanaticism, if only it would hold, since a counter-rail will still be nailed to the rafters from below under the finishing inner lining.

We will make the counter lattice from below from a wooden bar 30x40 mm. You can fix it on the rafters with self-tapping screws or nails, that's how you like it. Now we have the foundation and we can start laying the insulation.

As you remember, the depth of the rafters is 150 mm. Plate insulation, be it foam or basalt wool, can be selected for this size. But there is a slight subtlety here: in order to avoid cold bridges between the slabs, I advise you to buy slabs that are half thinner, in this case 75 mm each, and lay them in 2 layers with a shift between the joints of the two layers.

The foam plates are cut clearly at the distance between the logs so that they fit tightly and hold on their own. Cotton slabs are elastic and they need to be picked up or cut a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the lags, but do not overdo it with an overlap, otherwise the slab may bend.

When the main layer of insulation is laid, a windproof membrane is attached on top of it. The instruction here is the same as in the case of fixing the vapor-permeable membrane from below. That is, we cover everything with a canvas, lightly fix this canvas with a stapler and additionally fill a counter rail on top of the logs, the thickness and width of which should be at least 30 mm, usually 30x40 or 40x40 mm is taken.

Our upper counter-rail provides a ventilation gap. Theoretically, if you plan to cover the roof with new-fashioned soft tiles or other similar material, then you can fix OSB sheets with galvanized self-tapping screws directly onto this crate and cover the covering.

The air will move along the rafters from bottom to top. By the way, with such an installation, the counter-lattice of the two slopes should not be joined in the ridge. Free space is left there for horizontal ventilation.

But I always advise making a versatile, double roof slat. Such a design is a little more expensive, but it is an order of magnitude more effective. The point is that after we have filled the counter-lath on the logs, another layer of counter-lattice from a board with a thickness of at least 20 mm is packed perpendicular to it, with a step of about 20 - 30 cm.

It is not worth buying a planed board or calibrated timber, these are unnecessary expenses, an unedged board is quite enough here. I have come across cases when a slab was generally used for such a counter grill. It is on such a horizontal crate that sheet roofing material, for example, slate, is to be attached.

This double universal batten provides the best under-roof ventilation. The air here moves both from bottom to top and horizontally. Accordingly, well-ventilated wood will last much longer.

Naturally, all wood on the roof must be treated with antiseptics several times. Previously, engine oil was used for this, of course it protects from bugs and moisture.
But a wooden roof is a place with an increased fire hazard. Therefore, I recommend taking modern impregnations, which include flame retardants. Savings on fire protection can go badly.

There is one important point here. On the net, I often met advice on the fact that ordinary technical polyethylene can be stuffed as steam and wind protection. Supposedly it comes out cheaper, but the effect is the same. Regarding the reduction in price, they are certainly right, but otherwise everything is not so "smart".

Everyone knows that polyethylene is a 100% waterproofing agent and if you replace it with the lower layer of vapor barrier under the rafters in a residential attic, the room will turn out to be stuffy, because the couple has nowhere to go.

At the same time, it is also undesirable to stuff polyethylene instead of wind protection over the rafters, the effect will be even worse, moisture will condense from the bottom of the film and immediately be absorbed into the wood of the rafters and cotton mats.

So for residential premises, where the roof is at the same time the ceiling, I do not recommend using polyethylene at all. Although where the attic is a technical room or the attic has good forced ventilation, you can safely stuff polyethylene from below.

In order to make it easier for you to understand, steam and wind protection is a synthetic fabric, or as it is also called a membrane, in which steam or moisture can only penetrate in one direction. On the reverse side, such a membrane works as waterproofing. Usually the sides of the canvas differ in color or have special marks on them.

Characteristics of one of the most popular types of windproof membrane:

Characteristic	Windproof membrane class "Izospan"
	"AND"	"A" with fire retardants	"AM"	"AS"
Longitudinal 190 Transverse 139	Longitudinal 177 Transverse 129	Longitudinal 125 Transverse 95	Longitudinal 165 Transverse 120
Vapor permeability	3500g / m² / day	3500g / m² / day	1550g / m² / day	1000g / m² / day
UV resistance	3 to 4 months
Temperature range	From -60 ° C to + 80 ° C
Roll width	1.4 - 1.6m	1,6m	1,6m	1,6m

As for the inner lining of the attic roof, lining or ten-millimeter sheets of "FC" plywood is most often used in wooden structures. Some people prefer to sew up a living attic room with plasterboard. But, in my opinion, this makes sense only if the walls of the house are lined with some kind of block material and plastered.

All these types of cladding are simply simply fixed on the counter-rail we had filled in earlier. Note that it is not recommended to fix the inner finishing cladding directly on the supporting rafters of the roof, since in this case there will be no ventilation gap between the finishing cladding and the insulation, which can negatively affect the insulation itself and the wooden rafters.

Insulation of the roof from the inside

Knowing the general structure of the roofing cake, it is not difficult to insulate a sloped roof from the inside. If the upper part of the roof, that is, slate or some other covering, is made with high quality, and you are not going to change it, then the structure can be insulated from the inside.

But there is a small nuance: it makes sense to insulate the structure of the sloped roof itself only if you are going to make the attic space residential. To equip a technical room, it will be much cheaper to insulate the ceiling and communications that pass through the attic, if there are any.

The best way to insulate the roof from the inside is, of course, up to you, but the easiest way is to hire specialists and blow out polyurethane foam, penoizol or ecowool between the rafters. Moreover, if an OSB sheet or plywood is sewn directly on top of the rafters, then you can immediately spray foam from the bottom of the roof. But in the case when a crate is stuffed onto the rafters, for example, under the slate, the rear wall, along the upper edge of the rafters, will have to be equipped with your own hands.

I usually sew up the entire inner surface of the roof with a windproof membrane, and after blowing in the foam, I attach the lower lathing to the logs and stuff the inner lining. Only the windscreen in this case should be fastened not only with a stapler, but also with additional wooden planks, since, in fact, all the foam will hang on it. The lower membrane is not needed in this case.

Some craftsmen prefer to sew up the sectors between the rafters with OSB sheets instead of a windproof membrane. Further, foam is blown out in the same way, the lower crate is mounted and the finishing coating is equipped. In this case, membranes from above and below are not used, because the foam provides completely sealed, high-quality insulation.

Polyurethane foam and foam insulation are applied in an open way, that is, directly on the OSB or windscreen. If your rafters on both sides (top and bottom) are already covered with some sheets, you do not need to tear them off. Here it is enough to make a technological window with a diameter of about 80 mm and blow out these cavities with ecowool.

The lower insulation of the roof with foam is certainly a good thing, this material will serve for many years. But initially for such a pleasure you will have to pay a round sum. If the budget does not allow for the use of foam, only cotton wool or foam remains.

In this case, we act according to the classical scheme. First, wrapping the rafters, we fill the windproof membrane from below.

It is imperative to tighten the lower vapor barrier membrane only if you decide to insulate the roof with cotton materials. It is enough to insert polystyrene between the rafters and so that it does not begin to fall out over time, pull a fishing line, wire or some kind of synthetic thread along the lower edge of the rafters.

Insulation of the attic floor

As I already mentioned, in the case when the attic is not planned to be made residential, you can only dwell on the insulation of the ceiling. Honestly, this is the easiest and most affordable option for self-arrangement.

In a wooden house, where the floor beams perform the function of floor logs, you will initially need to hem the ceiling. Usually, thick plywood (from 10 mm) is used for this, and it is necessary to sew up in two layers, so that dust from the insulation does not wake up between the joints of the sheets.

The most affordable insulation in this case is expanded clay. Granules of medium diameter (1 - 2 cm), in a 1: 1 ratio, are mixed with expanded clay sand, and all this mass is poured between the logs.

In principle, this is enough for insulation, but if the attic is planned to be used as a technical room, then in order to move freely around it, I recommend to sew a supporting covering on top. It can be a layer of thick plywood (from 16 mm) or a floorboard with a thickness of 30 mm. You will not put furniture there, but in order to withstand your weight, this thickness is enough.

In addition to expanded clay, any vapor-permeable type of insulation can be used to insulate the attic floor. From free-flowing environmentally friendly materials, sawdust mixed with slaked lime or ecowool are suitable.

Moreover, in this case, you can fill up the ecowool with your own hands, you will not need special equipment. The material just needs to be poured out of the bag and fluffed using a mixer nozzle on an electric drill, or with a construction mixer.

If you are more impressed by rigid board materials or foam, then you need to act in exactly the same way as we insulated the sloped roof. That is, mats are inserted between the lags or foam is blown out, and a support covering is sewn on top.

When a fireplace or wood-burning stove is installed in the house, then naturally the pipe will come out through the ceiling. Here you have to take care of heat-resistant thermal insulation around this pipe with a thickness of 300 mm. In fact, there are not so many options; only expanded clay or mineral wool can withstand the high temperature of the chimney.

The fact is that any synthetic insulation begins to decompose at a maximum of 90 ° C. And if we talk about sawdust or ecowool, then, as you know, they can simply dry out and ignite from any small spark.

Reinforced concrete floor slabs in a block house are even easier to insulate. The level of vapor permeability of concrete is so scanty that it can simply be ignored. In terms of technology, it is easiest to cover such plates with a "blanket" made of extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex).

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam have docking grooves around the perimeter, so they are connected tightly, practically without gaps. In this case, a maximum thickness of 50 mm is enough, more is needed only for the northern regions of our great homeland.

The strength of the extruded polystyrene foam is sufficient to walk freely on it, so no additional flooring is needed.

By the way, if a reinforced concrete floor slab is a floor in a residential attic, it should also be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, only, as a floor finish, you need to lay a laminate. It is mounted using floating technology, so it won't be difficult. For linoleum, plywood will have to be laid on top of the foam.

If, for some reason, you do not want to insulate the reinforced concrete slab with extruded polystyrene foam, then you will have to mount a bar with a thickness of 50 mm or more on it, it will perform the function of floor logs. I talked about the insulation scheme between the lags above.

In my opinion, it is best to insulate reinforced concrete floor slabs in an attic or in a residential attic with extruded polystyrene foam. The fact is that even for the cheapest foam or expanded clay insulation, in addition to the material itself, you will need to spend money on a bar for wooden logs and plywood for the finishing coat, and in a circle it will not be any cheaper than paying for Penoplex once.

A few words about the insulation of a flat reinforced concrete roof

Insulation of structures with a flat concrete floor, in my opinion, is much easier than a private house with a wooden roof. This option is often in demand among residents of the outermost floors in urban multi-storey buildings. Although now more and more private low-rise houses with open terraces on the upper floors are found.

The roof insulation of a multi-storey building can be done in two ways. A more affordable option involves the use of expanded clay. To begin with, of course, you will need to rip out the old bituminous waterproofing that has become unusable and, if possible, clean out the reinforced concrete slab.

Further, metal or composite beacons are installed over the entire floor area. Since the roofing slabs on such houses still have a slight slope, beacons should be installed with the same slope, that is, strictly parallel to the slabs.

The gap between the upper edge of the beacon and the slab is made at least 140 mm. The lighthouses themselves are easier to install on gypsum cakes, although it is better to put them on self-tapping screws, with a step of about a meter. Only under the self-tapping screws, you will have to drill a number of blind holes in the concrete with a perforator and insert plastic dowels into them. The same distance is made between the lighthouses.

Expanded clay is filled with the first layer about 100 mm thick. On top of expanded clay, I recommend laying a layer of polyethylene, it will not allow the top layer of expanded clay to be saturated with moisture from the solution. Of course, it will not work to cover with a continuous canvas, beacons will interfere, so you will have to cover it with overlapping pieces.

Now we need to fill in the reinforced screed. As a reinforcement, I usually use a chain-link mesh. After laying the mesh, a cement-sand mortar is poured (proportion 1: 3) and, as a rule, is aligned with the beacons.

After a couple of weeks, you can equip roll waterproofing. Most often, liquid bitumen is poured and roofing material is fused onto it.

It is much easier, faster and often more effective to equip a concrete roof with extruded polystyrene foam. Here, the old layer of waterproofing is simply torn off, insulation plates are laid on the concrete, and a reinforced screed 30-40 mm thick is poured on top. When the screed hardens completely, a new layer of waterproofing roll can be fused.

Open terraces of private houses are the least of all work. Here, 50 - 70 mm extruded polystyrene foam is immediately installed on concrete, on which floor tiles for external surfaces are laid.

In this case, the tile sits not on a cement-sand mortar, but on a special glue. The upper foam layer is adapted for this. If it is necessary to provide a slight slope, then sand filling is made under the penoplex.