Wooden houses have always been considered the warmest, most comfortable and environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is not surprising that in our time, many owners of suburban areas dream of building a wooden dwelling.
What will be discussed:
We build from a bar
Today, instead of traditional logs, wooden beams can be used for this purpose. This is a new generation material, distinguished by its strength and wonderful appearance, and it is so easy to assemble buildings from it that even non-specialists can cope with it.
The advantages of buildings made of this lumber also include:
- · High thermal insulation, which is several times higher than the similar property of other building materials and allows you to significantly save on energy resources.
- · The timber is more than twice as strong as logs, it does not crack.
- · For the production of material, polyurethane glue, safe for humans and the environment, is used.
- · Houses made of timber, unlike log houses, are practically not subject to shrinkage, therefore construction and interior decoration will take much less time.
Material selection
Before you start building a house with your own hands, you need to choose a material. In today's building materials market, manufacturers offer several types of timber, which differ in their functional characteristics.
Glued laminated timber is considered the most durable and resistant to external influences. He is shown in the photo below.
Well-dried lamellas are used for its manufacture. Due to the fact that all areas with various defects are removed from the starting material, glued laminated timber becomes more durable, and its appearance is also improved. Then the lamellas are spiked and glued so that different layers of wood fibers complement each other. This way of assembling the timber makes it very strong and pressure-resistant. Assembling a house from laminated veneer lumber is quite simple.
Profiled beams are also produced today (in the lower photo). Its main difference is the presence of special grooves that facilitate the assembly of the structure. It can be solid or glued, rectangular or D-shaped.
The main difference between the glued material is that it does not shrink. You can start finishing the walls immediately after the end of the assembly. Profiled lumber can give a slight shrinkage, but it is many times less than that of a wooden frame.
The answer to the question: how much does it cost to assemble a house from a profiled bar depends on how thick the material you choose and what degree of humidity it will have.
Material calculation
If you decide to assemble a dwelling from a bar with your own hands, at the initial stage of construction, you should calculate the volume of the required building material. For this, the perimeter of the future building is calculated and multiplied by the estimated floor height. The resulting result is multiplied by the thickness of the lumber. As a result, you get a figure equal to the number of cubes of material for the construction of one floor. A tree should be added to the resulting volume for the assembly of interior partitions.
Preparing for assembly
To properly assemble a house from a bar with your own hands, you must adhere to some recommendations. All lumber is carefully inspected and sorted. Further, all noticeable irregularities are shaved off the surface. Following the project, the length of each bar is determined, trimmed and marked. To speed up the assembly process, you must first prepare the pins and drill holes for them. All prepared timber is laid out on the side of the wall where they will be laid.
Construction stages
Before assembling a house from a 150x150 timber, you should prepare the foundation. Its depth and type depend on the size of the house being built and the characteristics of the soil on the site. After the foundation has stood enough, you can start laying the first crown. If you are assembling a house with your own hands, be sure to take into account the advice of experts: do not lay the first crown immediately on the foundation.
This is the place most susceptible to moisture, therefore, a board should be laid between the concrete and the timber, which can be easily replaced if necessary. Its thickness must be at least 50 mm. Before laying, the board is treated with an antiseptic solution.
After laying the first contour layer of the beams, masonry is performed. Jute is used to seal the joints between the previous and subsequent rows. To strengthen the structure, every two beams are connected with dowels.
So that the lumber does not deform in the area of window and door openings, part of the timber is laid according to the size of the wall. After the shrinkage has passed, the unnecessary tree is cut out.
The floor of the first floor and the attic are insulated with a layer of mineral wool. After 3-4 months, you can start internal work. Before that, they once again inspect all the walls. If, during shrinkage, cracks appear on the surface of the beams, they must be repaired, the cracks are caulked with jute.
The top of the wall can be varnished. It will protect the tree from moisture and UV rays. To reduce the cost of paints and varnishes, the walls are sanded. In addition, a coating applied to a smooth sanded surface will last longer.
Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a house from a bar in the video below. This video describes in detail all the necessary stages of work.
In order for the house you built to be reliable and serve for more than a dozen years, do not forget about the following recommendations.
- Before assembling the structure, the material is cut and chamfered.
- It is impossible to use nails to fix the bars; pins are suitable for this purpose. For a 6 m long timber, you will need four dowels (two at the edges and two in the middle at the same distance from each other).
- Walls are assembled from smoother beams, material with a slight curvature is used for short sections in places of door or window openings.
- To assemble the corners, a thorn-groove connection is used.
A house correctly assembled from glued or profiled timber will serve for more than a dozen years, allowing you to enjoy warmth and comfort.
The technology of assembling a frame from a bar for a house or a bath
Organization of a workplace for assembling walls
To make the work work, the beams are laid out in a pile at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is stacked on pads made of boards.
Next to the pile, a workplace is equipped for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.
It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the bar with a chain saw.
The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, which with their upper end rest on the upper crown of the frame. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.
Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make the lifting of the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow small forces to be dispensed with. Even one person can, if necessary, raise the bar, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.
It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a blockhouse from a bar with a team of four people. You can work together as well, just work will go slower.
For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is erected.
Three-tiered scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1
- extreme racks; 2
- L-shaped post of scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3
- flooring; 4
- central racks; 5
- cross braces (shown conditionally); 6
- lugs The assembly of the upper rims of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.
At the stage of erecting the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the device of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.
It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from stairs - do not forget about this.
Marking beams for wall assembly
Practical experience in construction shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.
Before starting work, a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house is drawn, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.
An example of an assembly scheme for the walls of a house is shown in the figure:
Scheme for marking the corner joints of the timber and the joints of the parts of the longitudinal walls, for a house with dimensions of 6x9 meters. A and WITH- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- inner wall from a bar - a partition; 1
- the joints of the bars. At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams from 3 to 6 length m.
The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar with a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and on the right - doborks. At the next crown, laying begins in a similar order, but on the right.
Details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.
To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, pos. 1, are performed by making vertical cuts "into the floor of the tree" with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The bar in the corners of the crowns is connected in a ligation with a root spine (see below for more details).
How to correctly and quickly mark out spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identity of the sizes of timber blanks?
The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is placed on the bar and the contour of the template profiles is transferred with a marker to the surface of the bar.
It is more convenient, faster to mark up and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part being marked. I put the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.
For our example, you will need to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. Two mirrored wall details are marked with one template.
If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).
Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of longitudinal walls. 4
- groove for the root spike; 5
- groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6
- sample; 7
- a bar of additional. The figure above shows the template for marking the main bar in the crown, in which the add-on is located on the right. On the wall marking scheme, these are the crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.
Bottom template serves for marking the main bar in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.
At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places of the templates.
The same templates are used to mark the details of the add-ons. To do this, on templates in points b and with through holes were drilled, and in points a and d incisions are made.
To mark the finish, the template is placed on the timber and dots on the surface of the workpiece are punctured through the holes and cuts.
Remember this technique with the device of the holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.
The templates are made of "inch" planed board.
As a result, we are able to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.
Now consider how templates are applied. To mark the first bar of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the bar and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatching) is cut with a chain saw.
How to mark out spiked parts? Obviously, the tenon and the groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a part with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.
If the groove dimensions are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with a mezhventsovy heater.
The profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the timber using a square. These markings are used for neat cuts.
How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths
Technical conditions (TU) for the manufacture of a bar allow for a deviation of the size of the bar in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.
If the purchase documents indicate standard timber dimensions, for example, a section of 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will be different from the standard.
Each bar in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and the length of the bars will be different.
Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.
How to assemble smooth walls if the timber is different in width and length?
b- the minimum width of the timber; delta b- the difference between a narrow and a wide beam. Obviously, from a bar of different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall even - either outside or inside the building.
If you want to make a flat wall of the house outside, then all the beams in the wall are aligned to the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(The difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment to the outside edge will increase the gaps in the gusset of the beams (see illustration).
If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The outside wall is usually sheathed. And if the beams are chamfered from the outer edges, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. The corner joints of the beams are denser, "warmer".
How and what to connect the crowns of a log house
Each crown of a log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden pins. The pins are placed at a distance of about 250-300 mm from the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.
Each part of the crown is fixed with at least two pins. The length of the dowel should be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the bar.
cm., pos. 1. Round steel pins with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), just hammer into the bars of the crowns, option a on the image.
The upper ends of the pins made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log shrinks, the pins will be higher than the timber and raise the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.
For the same reason it is impossible to make hammered pins from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the bars of the crowns from moving when the log shrinks, even if the dowel is buried in the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such pegs.
Small diameter steel driven pins cannot always provide the required wall stiffness, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install pins with an increased diameter.
Steel pins with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden pins are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly less than the diameter of the pin.
With a tight fit of the dowel into the hole, the stiffness of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.
Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm convenient to cut from round tool cuttings. These cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer from the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.
Can be cut from a regular board "inches" square pins 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.
The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively "soft" coniferous wood are crumpled when driven in, the wood is compacted, ensuring a sufficiently tight fit of the dowel in the hole.
How to properly drill holes in a bar for pins
The depth of the holes in the wall for installing the dowels should be at least 4 cm. the length of the dowel. Moreover, the hole should be free of chips.
To drill holes in a bar that are deep enough and of large diameter, a slow-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The power tool passport usually indicates what drilling diameter in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.
To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.
The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps. An emphasis, in the form of a wooden bar, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from chips, rubbing in and, then, easily gets out of the deep hole.
It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here usually a problem arises - the inter-row gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.
You have to install the timber on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed against displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for pins. Then the timber is moved from the wall and the inter-crown insulation is laid.
At drilling sites the gasket is cut with a sharp knife... Then, the removed beam is put back in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with pins.
Drilling holes in the timber laid on the wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", the powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.
How to make a flat wall from a curved bar
In the timber brought to the construction site, some of the bars may turn out to be bent. The bar can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.
If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other less critical places.
A small amount of beams with curvature in one plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not lay such a bar into the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the bar will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower rims.
The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.
The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels A curved bar is drilled, aligning it at the drilling points with a straight bar. After laying the mezhventsovy insulation, the curved bar is fixed with a dowel at one end and unbending sequentially fixed with dowels at the other points.
To unbend the bar, great efforts are not required. The lever and bracket will help facilitate the work.
Mezhventsovaya gasket - insulation, seal
For the cold, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or linseed tow was used for this. Currently, there are special liners on the market based on flax or flax. The material is sold as a roll of tape 20 cm.
The strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the timber in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.
If the wall is not sheathed, then from the outer edge of the timber the gasket should be 1-2 cm. otherwise it will get wet.
Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after shrinkage of the log house, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this version, we have a lower consumption of cushioning material.
The work of caulking the joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the sealant thicker, in several layers (three layers), in order to eliminate the need for caulking the horizontal joints.
How to control the correct assembly of a log house
In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correctness of the assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:
- The verticality of the corners.
- Height of corners and walls.
- The horizontality of the rims and upper edges of the timber.
- The straightness of the walls.
- The quality of the installation of the mezhventsovy insulation.
For control of verticality of corners apply the following method.
To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown. 1
- bottom strapping; 2
- crowns; 3
- control lines; 4
- base. A vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner edge.
With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.
If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.
The height of the corners and walls is measured tape measure. Measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.
Horizontal crowns and top edges the timber is checked by level.
Straightness of walls determine visually by pulling a cord along the wall.
Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the spacer between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a bar in a high corner.
The quality and thickness of the installation of the mezhventsovy insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.
Window and door openings in a log house
From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.
Laying timber in the crowns in the area of the openings has its own characteristics.
a
- layout of openings in the wall, where: 1
- wall; 2
- door opening; 3
- pier; 4
- window opening. v
- cutting diagram of a bar, where c is the remainder of the cut. G
- a variant of the device of an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos. 7. d
- the option with installation in the opening of the decks, pos. 6 - we immediately get the opening ready for the installation of a door or window. In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.
One option is " G" on the image. The opening is done in a draft version, only preparation is made to create the opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the shrinkage of the log house.
This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall to the frame, pos. 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.
In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can "take away" inward or outward. To prevent this, the timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.
In another version - “ d»In the picture, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. For this, decks (windows) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos. 6 in the figure. The groove includes the spike of the partition bar. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed against displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.
Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also play the role of window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.
Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing of window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical window with a rail - a thorn, enters the groove of the wall bar; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - PSUL sealing tape In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, a deck (window) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the beams of the pier from displacement.
The length of the deck (box) or slats should be 5-7 less than the opening height cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
A bar for a house, a bath in your city
How to correctly install windows in a wall from a bar
If the opening in the wall was made in a rough version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with sawing out the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, pos. 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.
Correct installation of the window in the timber wall. 1
- wall; 2
- rail; 3
- platband; 4
- window; 5
- window box; 6
- wall timber above the window; 7
- mezhventsovy insulation; 8
- shrinkage gap over the window and deck; 9
- window frames; 10
- wall timber (wall); 11
- deck; 12
- nail. Then, with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the beams of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos. 10, a deck is inserted with a groove, pos. 11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
A window box is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house... Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with a soft insulating material.
The expansion gap must also be left above the top end of the deck.
In a similar way, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.
After the completion of the assembly of the first floor of the house, the blockhouse is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the structure is one-story) overlap.
They can be a structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.
The next page describes the construction of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.
Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology of installing a log house from a building bar.
One of the most popular services in the construction market today is the assembly of a log house. This technology is used to build not only private houses, but also baths, as well as utility buildings. They turn out to be warm and attractive in appearance.
If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some people prefer to leave the walls intact. So they look very nice and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from a profiled bar with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.
Main steps
When assembling a house, you must remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of assembling links of natural moisture. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if natural moisture material is used. The dried log house shrinks by about 9 cm.
The assembly is divided into several stages. At the first, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is erected. The main stage is the assembly of the log house. The final work is the manipulation of the roof. After shrinkage, external and internal work is carried out.
The most important first crown
The technology of assembling a house from a profiled bar provides for paying special attention to the first crown. It represents one of the vulnerabilities. This node will form the outline of the house. It is closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which pulls into the water from the ground.
The first crown is shielded, these works provide for its separation from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. Roofing material is usually used as it, laid on a layer of bituminous mastic. A lining 100 mm bar is located on top, this is precisely its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled bar. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and the wall material.
The underlayment must be made of larch, which is highly resistant to decay. In this case, the material must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from a profiled beam is delivered to the building area, you can start work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can start assembling the lower crown, which is a bar with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be covered with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is placed on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.
The floor beams must be cut into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown decays, there will be fewer problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are best made from larch.
The need for processing timber
Work on the assembly of houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the treatment of the material with antiseptics. In this case, you should take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only accessible sections of the walls.
Until the profiled timber is laid, the remaining surfaces must be protected. This must be done before assembling at home. Senezh and Tikurilla can act as antiseptic compounds.
Carrying out insulation
After studying the instructions for assembling a house from a profiled bar, you will learn that compaction is a mandatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in the corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of a Finnish-type profile involve laying a jute tape along the bar, in its central part. The main function of the jute sealant is to reduce wall blow-through. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.
Using pins as a connection
Self-assembly of a house from a profiled bar is accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. Products have an oblong shape and have a round or square cross section. It can be based on:
- plastic;
- metal;
- wood.
If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden pins are better than others. Such fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that during drying, the material does not deform, and cracks do not form between the crowns. The dowel will work in bending and will not allow the beam to bend.
If you decide to use pins as fasteners, then you can use some tips that will simplify the work. Between each other, no more than two bars should be connected. Nagels are staggered. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.
The pins should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. The holes for the installation of fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 bars. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. The dowel is hammered in with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from a profiled bar, you must choose pins, the length of which will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.
Assembly nuances: instructions for carrying out work
By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling a house, you can independently carry out its installation. In this case, each link will be in its place, glass slots are made in the products. It is necessary to carry out work according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation it is necessary to follow the diagram.
In the process, you must consider the grooves and tenons of each part. When laying with the profile, each edge must match. If the grooves and pins are not very complex, then a sealing material is laid between the links. This increases the thermal insulation performance of the walls.
When assembling a house from a profiled bar, it is important to ensure a tight abutment of the links to each other. If this rule is not followed, then the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The bars will have cuts-bowls that connect the links to each other in an even masonry. If the cups are not available, you can cut them out with the mobile cup cutter.
Completion of construction
After shrinkage, you can proceed with the rough and fine finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, entrance doors and windows are installed. The sub-floor is being installed. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then they do not need additional insulation and cladding. They will keep you warm perfectly.
Whereas a protective impregnation must be applied without fail. This will keep the wood in excellent condition for many years. If you wish, you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With the help of such a mixture, you can emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a rich shade.
Features of insulation
After assembling a house from a profiled bar, you can also carry out insulation. This process usually involves:
- tow;
- glass wool slabs;
- mineral wool;
- flax-jute linen.
Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect heat back into the room. Steam insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture that steals heat.
It is better not to use expanded polystyrene as thermal insulation, since it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which ultimately will cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth insulating the walls with roofing material, as well as glassine, and also with plastic wrap. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable material.
Finally
Assembling a house from a profiled log can be quite a simple task if you order a ready-made kit. All elements of the system are numbered in it. You will have to carry out the installation of the walls, guided by the principle of the Lego constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, drywall, hardboard or lining is usually used.
When arranging a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated board or ondulin. Metal tiles are great. Warming in this case starts from the attic floor. Then the craftsmen move on to the roof.
Profiled timber houses are comfortable and reliable. They have proven their worth many years ago. Much time has passed, and the advantages of wooden houses are only increasing. Nowadays, such houses are built quite quickly, because they are assembled like a children's designer. This is also facilitated by the availability of special mountings and the availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled log yourself.
Features of the profiled bar
Profiled timber is a building material that is obtained from coniferous trees, for example, pine, cedar, spruce, larch. If you take a closer look at the material, you will notice that the inside is flat and planed, and the outside has a semi-oval shape, or it can also be flat. On the sides there is a special groove and spike, which allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber to each other. The main advantage of the profiled bar is environmental friendliness, since it is made without the use of glue.
Also, the material is very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments win over many people. As mentioned above, the profiled beam is quite easy and quick to assemble, which is good news for DIY construction enthusiasts. But do not forget that a profiled beam is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. can develop there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.
Profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through cracks. Also remember that all wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and do not delay its repair. If your house is periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.
Start of construction of a house from a bar
It is very important to draw up a project of a house from a profiled bar. When you draw up a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, since this will play a very important role in the procurement of material. You can draw a project of the future house yourself, or you can contact a construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that the best time to build is winter.
If you plan to harvest wood yourself, it is better to do this in the cold season and dry it for a long time at home. In this case, the timber will shrink evenly and calmly. But do not go to extremes - in severe frosts it is better to refuse such work, since the tree can become very fragile.
When harvesting the material yourself, you must take into account all the factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to trim the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase ready-made material that will be cut to fit your needs. Also, grooves will be cut out there, and you just have to lay out the house from a profiled bar with your own hands, like a designer.
Building a foundation for a house
Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you should find out the indicator of groundwater, the composition of the soil, look at the construction of the foundation of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, bricks or cinder blocks. The process of constructing such foundations is quite simple, but it is characterized by high material consumption and laboriousness.
For wooden buildings from a bar, a columnar, pile or shallow strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallow strip foundation. It all starts with the markup. It is very important to be accurate in this process. Mark the outer and inner corners of the building with pegs. After that, you need to combine them with a cord to give bulk. This way you will understand how the foundation should look like.
After that, you can start digging a hole, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But making too small a depth is also not worth it, because we are building a house from a profiled bar and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with our rash actions. Two shovel bayonets will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial marking by more than 20 centimeters. After that, you need to put a crushed stone pillow. As part of this procedure, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of rubble of the same thickness.
You can make the formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formwork is made of wood that is free from cracks and seams. When ordering, it is better to choose steel or plastic formwork. You must install the formwork in the trench and center it. To increase strength, it makes sense to use reinforcement - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement must be at least 1 centimeter.
It is advisable to use a frame and at least 2 belts of reinforcement. When welding, they should not be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The rods should fit freely into the trench, but not closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and proceed with the concrete pouring. If you are using wood formwork, moisten it a little to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the mortar. The formwork is removed immediately after the mortar has dried.
For insulation, you can use extruded polystyrene foam plates of 5 centimeters, and at the corners of the foundation - 8. When the sides of the foundation of the house made of profiled timber are tarred, crushed stone is poured into the place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be insulated using roofing felt. Then it is imperative to perform backfilling, for which previously removed soil can be used.
Installing the base and floor
The construction of any house begins with the creation of a row, which is laid on a treated and leveled waterproofing foundation. It is worth noting that for the outer walls it is necessary to use a bar with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for the floor and inner walls - 100 by 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be treated with an antiseptic for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the floor joists, which should preferably be laid on the edge.
Logs can be installed on the foundation of the house and attached to the walls of the log house, as shown in the video about houses made of profiled timber. They must be placed in a room and left there for several days to get used to the temperature. Two logs should be placed on opposite walls and stretch nylon threads between them, every one and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guide by which the rest of the lags can be made. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, foam, isolon, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene.
If you will be laying logs from boards 30-40 centimeters thick, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for boards that are too thick - about 1 meter. Using wedges made of thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the log. You can strengthen the wedges using self-tapping screws or long nails. The lags are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can move on to installing and strengthening the boards.
One and a half centimeters should be retreated from the wall and the first row of boards should be strengthened along a stretched line. For self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled. It is necessary to lay a board on each lag and strengthen it. If gaps remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with baseboards or staples, which should be connected to the board and fastened with nails. The sub-floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. Planks with a section of 25 by 150 millimeters are suitable for him.
The floor can be laid with mixing or without displacement, judging by the photos of houses made of profiled timber. First you have to lay the first layer and lay the wood flooring on it. Remember the waterproofing, which lays down on the rough base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. At the last stage, the floor should be covered with any material. For this, a tongue-and-groove board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.
Erection of walls from profiled timber
To build the walls of a log house, it is necessary to lay out alternating rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together with pins (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the bar to move or twist. The pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house is built. It is known that metal pins are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden ones, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber in this case will increase.
How are pins installed? This happens according to the masonry method, through two or three rows through one. To do this, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 3 to 4 centimeters. The pins will easily be inserted into these holes. The distance between the pins should be one and a half meters. Do not forget to place a sealant for insulation between the rows of the timber. Where external walls join, it is advisable to apply the warm corner method.
In one beam, a protrusion of the required size should be cut, and in the other, a groove with similar parameters should be cut out. Some layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. This will greatly strengthen the structure, and the corners will not be blown. If you are building a house with one and a half floors, the walls of the second one must be raised by about 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions must fit into the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use a bar with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. Installation of partitions is done only after the creation of a log house.
If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition on the ground floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled logs, the internal walls can be made of frame. To do this, you need to create a frame of bars with a cross section of 50 to 50, sheathe it with clapboard or other material. In order for a wooden house to be fire resistant, all its parts must be treated with a fire retardant. You can apply it to walls with a spray gun or paint brush.
And the last point to understand when building walls: pay due attention to the creation of window openings. In the places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut out technological openings through which air will move during the drying of the material. When the house finally settles down, you can install windows. Window blocks for a building made of profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wood.
Insulation and decoration of the house
If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce the cost of heating it. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating bills, regardless of fuel. Exterior decoration of the house significantly increases thermal insulation by reducing the moisture content of the timber. It insulates it from various atmospheric precipitations. The most popular types of finishes are clapboard and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.
You can use rock wool, glass wool slabs, tow or linen cloth. Glass wool slabs must be laid with foil-clad vapor barrier material. This approach will help reflect heat back into the room, and steam insulation will reduce moisture evaporation, which is known to steal heat.
It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses made of profiled timber, it is better not to use expanded polystyrene, since it will not allow the moisture of the tree to evaporate completely and will cause rotting of the wood. For the same reasons, you should not insulate the walls with roofing material, plastic wrap or glassine. Better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.
Inside, it is also advisable to trim the profiled timber, as this will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be made of lining, hardboard or drywall. Remember the insulation should be like a puff pastry. Each layer must be a protection against heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you plan to spend time in the house only in the summer, you do not need to insulate it.
Roof for a house made of profiled timber
To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated board, roofing material, metal tiles. Remember that insulation should start from the last or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and battens. When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be placed, which should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. Lags are made of a bar with a section of 150 to 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on the edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.
After that, you should assemble the rafter system from boards with a section of 50 to 150 millimeters. This structure is the skeleton of the roof, so it must be strongly reinforced with uprights, crossbars and braces. The rafters should be mounted in increments of no more than one centimeter. When the frame is ready, you can start laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or a bar with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a crate with a section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed onto the rafters.
It is worth noting that the pitch of the lathing should not be more than 400 millimeters. In order to prevent the accumulation of condensate, it is necessary to make vapor insulation with a waterproofing layer. If you used slate as a roof covering, and the attic is blown out, you can refuse waterproofing during the construction of a house from a profiled beam.
When choosing a coating material, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's advice, since they can differ significantly for different types of coatings. It is very important to adhere to the specified mounting techniques during installation. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof may be compromised. If you strictly adhere to the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.
Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. You do not need to have special skills for this, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, you can easily cope with this work. Assembling the house will turn out like a constructor with which you played as a child. For this, special fasteners are provided along the edges of the material. You will also need a solid foundation and a reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from profiled logs!
Profiled timber has deservedly become one of the most demanded materials for the construction of low-rise wooden buildings. But this does not relieve him of the disadvantages inherent in all other solid wood building materials. That is why, when using profiled timber, you must strictly follow the technology of its laying. In this article, we will try to fully disclose the questions that may arise when assembling a house from a profiled bar.
Sequence of laying profiled timber
We will assume that the foundation for the house has already been erected and managed to gain the necessary strength. Considering the relatively small mass of the profiled timber and the house built from it, it is advisable to make a choice in favor of economical base options: a shallow tape or a bored foundation.
The first crown is the most important
One of the most vulnerable spots of a wooden house is the first, lowest, crown (one row of beams that form the outline of the house). The reason is simple: it is closest to the surface of the earth. Moreover, it is in direct contact with the foundation, which “pulls” water well. Therefore, first it is necessary to shield the first crown from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. This can be a layer of bitumen mastic applied to the base, two layers of roofing material, etc. A lining bar with a thickness of 100 mm and more and a width not less than the width of a profiled bar is laid on the waterproofing - another intermediate link between the wall material and the foundation. Best of all, if the lining is made of larch, which is distinguished by good resistance to decay. But even in this case, the material will have to be treated with antiseptic drugs. The beginning of the construction of a house from a profiled bar has been laid.
Next, the lower crown is laid, which is a bar with one (upper) profiled side. All horizontal planes are treated with an antiseptic, after the composition has dried, a layer of jute sealant (5 mm thick) is laid on them. Floor beams can be cut into the first crown, but it is better if they rest on the foundation grillage: if the lower crown decays, there will be fewer problems with its replacement. It is preferable if the first 2 crowns are of larch.
About the treatment of timber with antiseptics
Considering that after assembling the house, you will have the opportunity to process only the accessible parts of the walls, protection of all other surfaces must be carried out before the installation of the profiled timber. It is advisable to do this before direct assembly at home. Tikkurila, Senezh, etc. can be used as antiseptic compounds.
Insulation seal
Ideally, the use of jute is necessary only for the corner joints of the profiled timber - the most vulnerable places in the house. But some types of profile, for example, Finnish, initially imply the laying of jute tape along the entire bar in its middle part. The main purpose of the jute sealant is to reduce wall blow-through. Usually a layer of 5 mm is sufficient.
Connection by means of pins
Nagel - a pin, a thorn used for fastening elements of a wooden structure. It is an elongated fastener with a square or circular cross-section. It can be wooden (when assembling a house from a profiled bar, it is better to use just this one), metal or plastic. Fastening with dowels is used in cases where the moisture content of the timber exceeds 20%. This is done so that when it dries, the bar does not turn out, and cracks do not form between the crowns - the dowel works for bending and does not allow the bar to bend.
- only two beams are connected to each other - no more;
- the pins alternate in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm (see diagram below);
- the pins should be approximately the same moisture as the timber;
- from the previous paragraph it is obvious that it is better if these are wooden products;
- holes for them are drilled vertically, by 1.5 bars;
- the diameter of the holes may exceed the diameter of the fastener by a maximum of 1 mm. It is better if it is the same (the dowel is driven by a wooden mallet, sunk into the timber);
- the length of the pins should be less than the length of the hole by 20-30 mm (shrinkage compensation)
And remember, according to the technology of laying profiled timber, nails cannot be used!
Preparing for the shrinkage period
Door and window openings are either cut out in the walls, or they are provided in advance (house kit). Window blocks are installed at the required level, and door blocks are installed on the first crown. The blocks are fastened along the entire end of the opening; a gap of at least 50 mm is left above the box, which compensates for the subsequent shrinkage of the house.
If it so happened that a profiled beam of natural moisture was used, then after the construction of the log house, a temporary roof is erected to protect it from precipitation. The building is left alone for a period of 6 to 12 months - until the timber dries up and the house shrinks. Only after that you can start finishing work.
About the shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber
On the Internet you can find information that profiled timber, for example, of natural moisture is characterized by 4, 5, 6% shrinkage. But in order to be ready for a real change in the geometric dimensions of the timber, you should familiarize yourself with GOST 6782.1-75 “Lumber from coniferous wood. Shrinkage value ". We will leave the information presented there without comment. We only note that the amount of shrinkage directly depends on the difference between the values of the initial and final moisture content of the profiled bar.
You have probably heard more than once that the best time to assemble a house from a profiled bar of natural moisture is winter. And the point is not so much that winter wood is somehow special: until summer, the log house will be able to partially dry out in milder conditions than if the construction took place in a hot season. Uniform drying is the main antidote to severe deformations in the timber.
A few words about projects, etc.
If you ordered a house-constructor made according to the project, then in the latter there should be a section with design documentation, which indicates the sequence of all work on assembling a house from a profiled bar. All that remains is to call a couple of friends for help and you will be able to assemble the blockhouse yourself. And those guys who ordered the building materials with moldings can only wish good luck: such savings on your nerves are not worth it!