Planting and caring for large-leaved hydrangea. Large-leaved hydrangea

A rare front garden does without large-leaved hydrangea. This shrub blooming in lush bunches is a true decoration of the garden.

Large-leaved hydrangea - plant description

Initially, the predecessor of the large-leaved hydrangea came to the gardens of Europe straight from Japan and a little later, thanks to breeders from France, the heroine of the article appeared. This variety is less frost-resistant than other varieties, but it is distinguished by lush bloom and changing color of foliage during the season. All summer long, huge leaves remain green, and closer to the end of the warm pore, they begin to twitch with a light red bloom.

The clusters of inflorescences consist of flowers exceeding 3 cm in diameter, and the inflorescences themselves reach about 18 cm.

Depending on the variety, large-leaved hydrangea can have different shades of flowers:

• white;
• pink;
• blue.

The shrub blooms quite early, after the May holidays. After the flowering period has passed, the inflorescences do not fly around, but only their color changes to greenish. So such a plant is decorative and can decorate the garden throughout the spring and summer period.

But it is important to remember that you need to buy seedlings from trusted suppliers or nurseries in order to avoid falsification. Hydrangea is popular and in high demand.

Landing in open ground

For a long time, hydrangea was cultivated as indoor plant, but after the breeders bred new varieties, it became possible to plant it in the open field.

Site and soil preparation

It is important to properly prepare the soil and planting site. Then, from the very beginning, the shrub will develop correctly, which will strengthen the hydrangea's immune system.

Although the beautiful hydrangea loves bright light, you shouldn't indulge this whim. It is best to equip it in partial shade.

It is good if the base of the plant is shaded, but the crown is saturated with the sun.

It is important to follow some rules when landing:

• shrubs should not be planted close to trees, as they draw a lot of moisture from the soil;
• if the base of the hydrangea is under the sun, then the plant will suffer because the soil is very dry;
• inflorescences become smaller in the shade;
• the flowering period of the bush in the shade is shorter.

True gardeners prefer to design on their site not only vegetable beds, but also to plant various ornamental shrubs. Among the great abundance of species and varieties, the leader is large-leaved hydrangea – ornamental shrubblooming in large armfuls of small delicate flowers.

It should be noted that the care and planting of large-leaved hydrangea is also possible at home - in indoor flower pots, this plant grows in small bushes, which also bloom in small clusters of flowers.

If you plant a plant on garden plot, you can achieve the formation of a large and neat bush that will bloom during almost the entire warm season.

Large-leaved hydrangea varieties

Before purchasing seedlings for planting, you should study the characteristics of each variety, whether the one you like is suitable for planting in your own region.

Large-leaved hydrangea has great amount varieties that are subdivided into series of varieties that include similar varieties of ornamental shrubs and have the same growth traits.

It is recommended to plant in the garden those varieties that can survive the winter; in some regions, you will have to resort to additional shelter. The most suitable for planting and growth in the garden include the following series of varieties:

Endless Summer - the variety series has a second name “ Endless summer". This is due to the flowering of the plant, which occurs from late spring to early autumn. The variety series includes many varieties that differ in color shade: Twist-and-Shout, Blashing Bride, Original ( Baimer), Bloom Star.

ForeverandEver - the variety includes Peppermint, Blue Heaven, Red Sensation, Pink / Blue ( Early sensation), White Ball. Varieties bloom for several years in a row with the same strength, gardeners will behold large inflorescences, are often planted at home.

YouandMe - Japanese series includes varieties such as Together, Romance, Expression, Forever, Symphony, Eternity, Love. Last new variety (Love) - pink hydrangea - was bred artificially only in 2015, but immediately gained popularity due to its color - these shrubs bloom with large pink buds, which reminds of the Japanese beauty that is habitually observed in all kinds of landscapes of the corresponding theme.

As it became clear above, a large number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea is explained by the artificial breeding of breeders different countries... Each group prefers to create only those plant varieties that thrive in their climate.

So it is noted that the varieties of the North American groups are able to survive the winter with frosts of -15 degrees without additional shelter.

For planting in the eastern part of Russia, it is better to use varieties of European selections - they are able to withstand frosts down to -20 degrees. But in order to avoid the death of the shrub, experts advise nevertheless to cover it for the winter.

Large-leaved hydrangea. Features of flowering and care, video:

Planting hydrangeas in the garden

Planting large-leaved hydrangea in the garden takes place in the spring. If desired or necessary, seedlings can be planted in the fall, but no later than mid-September, so that the root system has time to strengthen in the ground. In order for the shrub to bloom perfectly during the summer, you should choose places that are slightly shady and protected from the winds.

But at the same time, it is important that sunlight falls on the plant - due to biological clock hydrangeas will be better if the sun illuminates the bush in the morning and evening.

Sun exposure per day should not be less than 6 hours in total.

It is also important that the hydrangea does not coexist with such bushes and plants that have to be constantly uprooted and planted again. This is necessary to preserve the root system, since this ornamental shrub does not tolerate damage well. For the rest, planting large-leaved hydrangea is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

Immediately after planting, hydrangeas are watered, and abundantly, so that the soil is thoroughly saturated with water. In conclusion, mulching should be carried out - sprinkle the planting site with peat and sawdust. Mulching retains moisture in the soil for for a long time, and in this case ornamental plant the acidic environment remains.

Care

Novice gardeners are afraid to plant a hydrangea in the garden, believing that it requires a lot of care for its growth. In fact, this shrub is unpretentious - it is enough to water it every time the upper soil dries up. For hydrangea to bloom well, its soil must always be moist. Also for better growth and flowering use top dressing. The bush is fed three times:

• in the spring before the leaves bloom from the buds or when planting a seedling;
• before bud ripening;
• in early autumn, when the flowering begins to end.

For feeding, you do not have to purchase any substances for self-mixing - it is enough to purchase a complex mineral supplement intended for hydrangeas in a specialized store. Dilute the solution strictly according to the instructions. In certain situations, you can use humus or manure.

Features of growing at home

As mentioned above, hydrangea grows well. at home... To do this, you should purchase ready-made soil with a medium acidic environment and plant the seedling in a pot, the width of which does not exceed the height. It is better to put the pot on the east side so that the hydrangea can get saturated with sunlight, but at the same time it is not burnt by it. Recommended for home growing make diffused light.

Large-leaved hydrangea at home does not grow to large sizes - the maximum permissible volume of a pot for a shrub is 7 liters. Of course, if you wish, you can grow a whole bush, which will not differ in size from garden specimens. Caring for the shrub is no different - they also do three feedings during the warm season, and water well during the entire growth.

True, unlike a garden specimen home plant should not be covered for the winter - at this time it is not recommended to remove the hydrangea from the windowsill and should not be fertilized.

It is just important not to allow the soil and root system to dry out. Hydrangeas often bloom twice when grown at home.

Pruning

To form a beautiful and neat bush, a garden or home hydrangea must be pruned. Cut the bush to save correct shape, as well as for the ability to germinate and bloom strong branches. Therefore, the shrub must be inspected periodically - as soon as weak and dry branches are found, they are removed at the root.

In the summer, the shrub is checked to maintain its shape - for this, all branches that grow inside the bush are removed. At the end of flowering, you can spot new branches at the bottom of the bush - they are removed to the lower new growths.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangeas in the fall. Video:

Reproduction of hydrangea

Seeing the beauty of hydrangea, gardeners wish propagate shrub, which is carried out in several ways: by seeds, layering, cuttings or dividing the bush. Planting cuttings or dividing a bush is popular - thus it is faster to grow a new seedling for planting in open ground.

Dividing the bush

The division of the bush is the most quick way get a new seedling. The donor bush, of course, will become much smaller, but this the best way reproduction, especially if everything is carried out in one garden area. A similar division is carried out in the spring - preferably before the buds ripen.

For reproduction, it is necessary to carefully dig out the bush and divide it into several seedlings so that each of them contains the buds of a new growth. Otherwise, the new hydrangea seedling will turn into old bushthat will not blossom as abundantly as it should.

The separated seedling is transplanted into appropriate place, after cutting off 3-4 cm from the root system. It is also important to consider all the roots during transplantation - if there are rotten ones, they must be removed. Before planting, work is also carried out with shoots - they are shortened to 3-5 buds from the rhizome. If everything is done in the spring, the new seedling will completely take root in the fall and calmly endure the winter.

Reproduction by layering

Reproduction by layering easier, since it does not require painstaking work with the root system. Layers are young shoots that can be found near the root collar of the main hydrangea bush.

The shoots have a thin stem with leaves, which must be separated from the bush without tearing it off, and simply dig into new holes nearby.

In the place where the layering went deep into the ground, it is necessary to tear off all the leaves from it carefully, without damaging the stem itself. The previously dug hole should be about 15 cm deep. The cuttings should also be prepared before deepening into the ground - for this, an incision of 2-3 cm is made in the stem and a match is inserted.

This will help the root system germinate faster. The cuttings are added dropwise with the same mixture that was used for planting the main seedling. The layers remaining on the surface should be tied to a peg dug in next to it. By the fall, the root system will go, but for now he is provided with the same care as for the main hydrangea.

When the roots hatch in the fall, the layers can be separated. Such a hydrangea is planted only in the spring - after wintering with the main shrub. After another year, you can admire the ripening of the buds and not abundant flowering.

How to prepare large-leaved hydrangea for winter?

Since the weather in Russia is harsh for plants, it is important to know how to cover a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter - this will help to avoid the death of the bush.

You should resort to a hydrangea shelter only before severe frosts, which on average occurs in October or November. Depending on the size of the bush, there are two ways to hide hydrangeas for the winter.

If the bush has not yet acquired a large size, it can be covered special insulation... To do this, the entire shrub should be raised and a layer of sawdust or leaves should be laid around the trunk - this is important to protect the root system from frost. Further, the branches of the hydrangea are lowered down and attached with special wire brackets.

From above, the entire bush is covered with a special agrofibre, the free ends of which are buried in earth. Additionally, you can cover the hydrangea with a sheet of slate - this will protect it from excess moisturewhich may be back in autumn timeand will also start in the spring.

The second method is used when the hydrangea has grown to a weighty size and its branches can no longer be attached to the ground - they will simply break. In this case, the branches are lifted, tied, laying twine around, and covered insulation material in 2-3 layers.

Pay attention to this stuff -

A frame is built around the resulting "mummy" - you can use a simple metal mesh, which is placed around and secured. Inside the frame, on top of the wrapped hydrangea bush, spruce branches or dry foliage should be poured, completely to the full height. The entire structure is covered with a film or roofing material, and is also fixed and left until spring.

A little about pests and diseases

Despite its greatness and beauty, large-leaved hydrangea is rarely affected by pests or diseases. Often she is a "victim" of infection from a nearby plant. To the most common problems with hydrangea include:

• Chlorosis is a disease that causes leaves to lighten, resulting in increased alkali in the soil. To cope with the problem, it is necessary to increase the acidity in the soil.
• Downy mildew - oil spots appear on the leaves, which turn yellow after a few days. The plant withers, flowering may stop. To avoid this, you should immediately pour the hydrangea with a mixture, mixing 150 g of soap and 15 g copper sulfate... The resulting mixture is poured into a 10 liter bucket of water.
• Spider mite - this disease has a name corresponding to the species - the leaves of the bush are covered with a characteristic spider web. After a short time of illness, the hydrangea throws off the leaves. You can get rid of the disease only by spraying the entire bush with a special solution. To do this, askaricide is purchased in the store and diluted according to the instructions.

Large-leaved, quite thermophilic and very showy varieties of large-leaved hydrangea were first obtained in France.

Further selection, aimed, among other things, at obtaining cold-resistant forms, led to the emergence of such hydrangeas that are able to overwinter in the open field middle band - truth, with obligatory winter shelter.

These hardy varieties include:

• grade Alpengluchen characteristic slender lush bush, which in June-July is covered with rich red caps of inflorescences.
• Range of terry varieties "Yu and Mi" combines in inflorescences different ages light and rich shades of pink.
• Forever & Ever shines with flowers of various colors: pink, white, red, blue.
• Hydrangea Endless Summer"(" Endless Summer ") is able to bloom again.

Large-leaved hydrangeas are also grown in room culture, which solves the problem of wintering, but does not allow the bushes to reach those impressive sizes that they are potentially capable of.

A photo

Planting and leaving

Seat selection

For abundant and friendly flowering, a sufficient amount of sunlight is required. At the same time, in the sun, the "vessel with water" dries quickly.

Therefore, the landing site must be slightly shaded... One of suitable options: bottom part the bush is shaded and the top is in the sun. Neighborhood with large trees is undesirable, because their powerful root system quickly absorbs soil moisture, which hydrangea needs so much.

Priming

The soil must be weak or medium acid, moderately loose and nutritious enough. Its composition can be as follows: peat, humus, sod, leafy earth and sand in equal amounts. They also use a "equal" mixture of peat, humus, rotten needles and garden soil.

Landing

The best time to plant this bush in open ground is late spring (warm soil and no frost). The size of the planting pit should correspond to the root system of the seedling. For small plants, in particular, 35 cm in length, width and depth is sufficient.

At the bottom of the pit, if the soil is clayey, a drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, brick or ceramic broken is laid. Place a layer of prepared potting mix and gently spread root systempre-soaked in a bucket of water.

They fill up the soil, carefully compacting it, add organic and complete mineral fertilizersthat will promote the formation of flower buds.

Watered then the surface of the earth is mulched dead needles or chopped bark. This last operation necessary for the soil under the bush to retain moisture longer. To preserve moisture, a hydrogel is also added to the soil.

The distance between several seedlings should be at least one meter.

Irrigation the water must be soft, as this plant does not tolerate hard, lime water.

Rainwater irrigation is ideal. Water from the water supply network should settle well and warm up, and periodically it is useful add a little acidifier - lemon juice or vinegar.

In the summer, if there is no rain, each bush should receive two buckets of water weekly.

Top dressing

The plant responds well to mineral feeding with a complex for heather, rhododendrons and azaleas. The best option – special mixtures designed specifically for hydrangeas.

The timing of fertilization takes into account the main phases of growth and development:

• spring feeding promotes the formation of young shoots;
• june promotes abundant bud formation;
• summer, during the flowering period, prolongs flowering and ensures the establishment of flower buds, which will open next year. Potash and phosphorus components should be added to this top dressing, and nitrogen should be reduced.
• Autumn, in front of the shelter, consists of superphosphate and potassium.

Pruning

Large-leaved hydrangea, as a rule, are cut slightly, limited to the spring removal of weak, damaged and thickening shoots. This sparing regime is due to the fact that flowering provide only last year's lignified shootsthat should be preserved as much as possible.

Rulers of varieties Forever & Ever, U & Me, Endless Summer bloom with shoots of both the past and the current year, so these bushes can be significantly pruned not only in spring but also after flowering- half the length of the shoots or more.

How to shelter for the winter?

In August-September, if the weather is dry, the hydrangea should be watered abundantly. A well-hydrated plant will more easily endure future frosts. At the same time, as a prevention of rot under cover, spraying with Bordeaux mixture is carried out.

In October, with the onset of night frosts, spud bushes to a height of 0.3 meters.

In the beginning of November branches are bent to the ground, covered with dry foliage, covered with spruce branches.

You can put on top box or box suitable dimensions, which will provide an air insulating cushion, or install low arcs and cover them with plastic wrap.

In the spring this shelter follows shoot gradually.

Bloom

The standard flowering times are in the summer months - June and July.

In order for the hydrangea to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier, and its inflorescences become more powerful, the plant is sprayed with a solution of growth accelerators, gibberellins, in water, at a concentration of 50 mg / l twice, with an interval of four to seven days.

The color of the inflorescences depends on the reaction of the soil and changes from pink in neutral soil to blue and blue in an acidic substrate.

This property is widely used, especially since acidified, soft water is beneficial for plants.

The presence of small amounts of aluminum and iron in the soil creates additional game colors. In particular, to obtain a stable blue, it is recommended to water the plants every two weeks with two liters of alum solution - potassium alum or ammonia-potassium - at a concentration of 3-5 g / l.

Faded "caps" immediately do not delete: in winter, they will provide additional protection for growth and flower buds. These dry flowers are eliminated only after wintering, at the beginning of the next spring.

Seeds of large-leaved hydrangea do not have time to ripen during the summer of the middle lane, therefore they multiply it exclusively vegetatively: layering and cuttings.

• Reproduction by layering carried out in the spring: bending a suitable branch to the ground, fix it in the middle and add it in. By autumn, the buried part forms a sufficient root system, but the new plant is separated from the mother plant only next spring.
• Propagation by cuttingsand is successful in early spring (parts of lignified stems) and in summer (sections of green shoots). With the use of growth stimulants, in conditions high humidity, at a temperature of 14-17 degrees, cuttings with two to four nodes quickly form roots in a substrate of leafy soil and peat with sand or in coniferous soil.

Withering in summer with sufficient wateringobserved in the sun when the temperature rises above 30 degrees. To prevent this from happening, the place for planting hydrangeas should be slightly shaded.

Hydrangea in an area with optimal conditions for it is resistant to diseases.

If the soil is limescale or oversaturated with humus, the plant may develop chlorosis, in which the leaves, with the exception of the central vein, become yellow-light. In this case, watering is carried out potassium nitrate solutionwith a concentration of 4g / l, and after 3 days - ferrous sulfate solutionthe same concentration.

Downy mildew, in which dark oily, gradually spreading spots are formed on the leaves and stems, it affects the hydrangea at a temperature of 18-20 degrees in combination with high atmospheric humidity. Effective remedy from such a disease is spraying with copper-soap solution: 15 g copper sulfate and 150 g green soap on a bucket of water.

In the open field, the plant is practically not affected by pests, with the exception of snailsthat can eat up leaves and buds. In this case, the snails and their clutches are collected, destroyed, and specialized preparations against molluscs are used.

In general, the large-leaved hydrangea, like an open field plant, belongs to the rather unpretentious inhabitants of the site.

Wintering is a certain problem - even cold-resistant varieties can hardly endure winter temperatures at minus 18 degrees. However, those flower growers of the middle lane who provide their hydrangeas with an appropriate winter shelter will be rewarded with regular abundant flowering of lush bushes. In the fall, their leaves, before falling for the winter, acquire a rich red color, bringing their accent to the golden autumn outfit.

Large-leaved hydrangea is a beautiful and large shrub... Distributed in the American and East Asian territories. This plant is fully consistent with its second name, hydrangea, which with greek translated as a kind of container with water. There are about 80 species of this plant. Where did it come from, what are the rules of care, features of reproduction, conditions for transplantation, protection from diseases - all information on these issues can be found in this article.

The emergence of the plant: historical facts

Large-leaved hydrangea was bred at the start of its victorious European march in France. But she came here in the form of a Chinese plant two centuries ago. This species is not as resistant to winter cold as petiolate hydrangea. Without shelter, a large-leaved hydrangea cannot overwinter. This should be taken into account when planting a plant in Eurasia, especially in the middle lane.

The history of the emergence of broadleaf hydrangea is very romantic. Bougainville with his first expedition around the world, being in Indian Ocean, stopped at about. Mauritius. Commerson had a pleasant time in conversation with the military engineer de Saint-Pierre. The latter was carried away beautiful woman, Madame Poivre. She loved to accept flowers as a gift, loved to amaze with spectacular airy outfits and preferred in everything the delicate tones of white, blue, and also pink.

When the scientist found out that the engineer was giving bouquets to this woman from an unknown bush covered with balls of inflorescences of his favorite shades, he realized that it was possible to make a small discovery for European countries. But God's providence did not suggest the name Poivre. Oddly enough, the flower was named after the sister of the Prince of Nassau-Siegen, the future Russian admiral. Her name is Hortense. Commerson was ambitious, and after listening to stories about his beautiful sister, he suggested giving a European name to the Chinese decorative flower identical to the name of the distant beautiful appearance of the princess.

The name hydrangea macrophylla was coined by botanists who systematize the knowledge of the flora. The name came from the meaning of the Greek words, which are translated into Russian as "water" and "vessel". The name was given either because of hygrophilia or because special kind boxes with seeds, visually identical to the jug.

The history of the large-leaved hydrangea hides some more interesting facts:

• any subspecies of this plant may have an indication of "French" in its name in gratitude to the fact that it was this nation that introduced such a beautiful bush to the countries of Europe;
• the Japanese name for this plant is adzisai (it means that this flower looks like a purple sun);
• blue shades of hydrangea appear due to unique ability plants accumulate aluminum from acidic soils, forming chemical compounds with him;
• like the previous feature, a lilac or pale beige shade of flowers is formed, which are acquired thanks to alkaline soils.

Rules for the care of large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangea requires attention, like any beautiful lady. Its visual year-round decorativeness is due to the peculiarities of large ovoid leaves located opposite each other. They are bright green in spring and summer. Reddish shades are formed on them in the fall.
The inflorescences of flowers, similar to the shield in appearance, create a kind of decoration-protection up to 20 cm.The flowers themselves reach 3 cm.They appear in the middle of summer. The peculiarity is that the inflorescences will not fall off for the next 9 months.

For hydrangea, the following conditions are simply necessary:

The soil

The soil mixture should be medium to low acidity. It is best if parts of sod, leafy soil, sand, peat, humus are mixed in equal proportions. In the presence of lime, the plant can be significantly damaged. As for the changes in the color of the petals of flowers from pink and white to blue and even blue, depending on the reaction of the soil, it was said above. So, if there is a large-leaved blue beauty in the garden, then the soil under it is acidic. Take the soil in coniferous forests, then it will become a pink hydrangea. One of its species, the macrophile, loves moist soil, but it is not very resistant to frost.

Drop off location

Large-leaved hydrangea will appreciate the care that begins with its planting. Photophilousness does not indicate the presence of direct rays of the sun. Therefore, a little partial shade is the golden mean, which the plant desperately needs, so that it does not dry out and bloom profusely. Planting large-leaved hydrangea is optimized in places where the shadow falls on the base of the bush.

Features of feeding

For the hydrangea to turn red, the soil must be acidic. But this is a relative term. Pure red is impossible to achieve. In principle, the flowers of the plant will be dark pink. In the same way, you can achieve a pink-lilac hue.
Macrophyll hydrangea can be obtained in light blue or blue. For this, some substances must be added to the soil. This can be achieved with iron salts or alum.

If you are wondering how to feed the hydrangea for its flowering in two shades at once, then you can add alum from the side where there will be no drain on the other side of the flower, if there is a slope. Thus, turning the soil into soil with different acidity, you will achieve flowers in both blue and pinkish shades to a greater and lesser extent, and you will have an excellent idea of \u200b\u200bhow to feed the plant so that it blooms lush and colorful.

Do not feed this plant with ash. Take better organic matter, make a mullein solution. If you don’t want to “mess around” with solutions of alum, iron salts, ammonium or potassium sulfate, buy fertilizers at mineral base for plants. Those that are intended for heather, rhododendron and azaleas are suitable. Also, shops sell a bluing substance. Both ammonia-potassium and potassium alum should be dissolved in water. Take 8-10 units per 2 liters of liquid. The calculation goes for one adult bush.

Planting and caring for goretsa aims to give it the strength for long-term flowering.

All this is possible if, when planting shoots, they do not undergo putrefactive processes. In this case, the old grandmother's method saves - a manganese solution, but very weak. If we don't name it, replace it with phytosporin or fungicide.

Caring for a large-leaved hydrangea involves several phases. Fertilization is carried out in order to:

• giving strength to the plant in spring (carried out at the beginning of rapid growth);
• an increase in the bookmark of buds, is carried out in June;
• more long flowering and to have the strength to lay new buds for flowers next year (held in mid-summer).

Should stick to a few important rules... We will talk about them further:

How to water hydrangea

Does not tolerate lime impurities. Only “soft” water should be chosen for irrigation. You cannot use tap water all the time. The best way - rain collection. More simple - settled water. There is a risk of chlorosis. Add an occasional drop of electrolyte to soften the available tap water. Small amounts of vinegar or lemon juice available at home will also work. One bush needs two buckets of water at once. But if there are short-term rains or mulching is carried out, watering is allowed to be carried out once in 30 days.

The need for pruning

This plant has a peculiarity, if you cut it off annually, there will be no color at all. The reason is that the hydrangea needs pruning for purely cosmetic or medical purposes. If carried out out of habit, the plant simply will not be able to bloom, because last year's shoots are the basis for new ones that appear in their sinuses. Old shrubs are pruned to rejuvenate. it the usual way stimulation and growth of young shoots. But completely pruning is prohibited.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Madame Emile Mouillere' AGM

Large-flowered hydrangea and all its species require the preservation of the stems. So the first goal of caring for her is to combat freezing or debate shoots. Only then will flowering growths appear constantly.
The inflorescences that remain for the winter must be monitored. If the owners are afraid of the occurrence of diseases under winter shelter, then they should be removed. If there is a desire for the plant to please the flowers until spring even under cover, then prepare the Bordeaux mixture. If you treat the bush with it, then until spring it will stand brightly decorated, and in the spring the inflorescences can be removed. Do this without causing damage to the shoots.

Shelter in the cold

Winter is not the best "friend" for hydrangea, especially cold. Prepare for this in the fall. Abundant watering in dry weather before the onset of cold weather is one of the guarantees that the plant will tolerate cold weather well. Processing with Bordeaux mixture will not only help the bush to stand blooming until spring, but also neutralize the possibility of fungi on it for several months.

To protect the large-leaved hydrangea during the first night frosts, they huddle it. The height of this protection of the bush should reach 30 cm. From above it is covered in two layers plastic wrap, better perforated. Agrospan is suitable instead of a film. The branches of the bush bent to the ground, strewn them with dry foliage or spruce branches from the heart. A box or a not very heavy box is put on the top. Basically, the hiding place for the hydrangea is the same as for the roses. The instability of these garden bushes to frost can lead to sad consequences, the plants simply will not bloom. The year is for sure. Special covers or agrofibers can also save and insulate the hydrangea.

Breeding features

At home, caring for a plant involves its reproduction as well.

The following breeding methods are available for hydrangea:

• • cuttings or layering;
  • dividing the bush.

The latter option can be carried out during the spring months. For this, the grower must see and identify the buds of renewal. It is by their presence that it is necessary to divide the dug bush. So that the plant does not hurt and it endures reproduction more easily, crushed coal will heal those places along which the division was carried out. Treatment with rooting stimulants will help each cut take root better. If everything went well, then by autumn new bushes will have shoots that will become flowering twigs by spring.

Large-leaved hydrangea can reproduce with the help of layering. This method is loved by those who are afraid of disrupting the root system. It is necessary annual shoots bend to the ground. The deeply scratched and root-treated middle part should be under the ground cover. In this case, the top necessarily remains above the ground. In the spring it will be a steamer, which is planted separately.

How to transplant a plant

If you plan to plant several bushes at once, then the distance between them is not less than a meter... The first rule is sufficient volumes of pits in height, width and depth. For a small plant, these parameters will everywhere be equal to 35 cm. For a larger plant and the size of the hole is increased accordingly. It is necessary to plant hydrangea only in warm soil - in the spring.

In order to protect your pet, remember that colored hydrangea needs:

• moisture (which water is better and how to soften tap water, written above);
• increased acidity (feeding with iron salts is periodically necessary);
• attention (in case of diseases, the best way is to alternate watering with potassium nitrate and iron vitriol in solutions, from spider mites will protect actillic, from powdery mildew - fungicides or drugs and copper);
• protection (for example, in winter from rodents, so that they do not damage the bush and young shoots, do not forget to spread the remedy under the shelter from unnecessary "guests").

Large-leaved hydrangea attracts with its decorativeness, for which it is loved by many flower growers.

Large-leaved hydrangea at first glance, it attracts attention with its lush leaves and bright voluminous inflorescences. Despite the fact that this moisture-loving culture is a resident of the tropics, it is quite possible to grow it on your own plot or even near the entrance of a city house, because with relative unpretentiousness, this color is highly decorative.

You will find the necessary information for growing large-leaved hydrangea in this article. It contains not only descriptions of popular types of flowers, but also helpful advice for planting and caring for this unusual and beautiful culture.

Large-leaved hydrangea

In its natural habitat (subtropics), hydrangea receives the maximum amount of moisture and light, therefore, the height of some adult specimens can reach 4 meters. Naturally, it is difficult to create subtropical conditions in the open field of a temperate climate, but in our climate it is quite possible to grow a healthy and beautiful bush... However, it should be borne in mind that the height of such flowers reaches a maximum of two meters, and only under the condition of proper care.

In addition to varieties intended for cultivation in the open field, there are also compact indoor views, the height of which does not exceed 60 cm. Moreover, all varieties have one common feature: dark green oval leaves with a pointed edge.

External features of the flower

Large-leaved hydrangea fell in love with gardeners not only because of its high decorative effect, but also due to its long flowering. The first buds appear in June and do not wither until early October, and their shade can be white, cream, pale blue or pink, depending on the variety.

In the past, growing hydrangeas outdoors has invariably been accompanied by shelter for the winter. Now this event is optional, but only if you grow special winter hardy varietiesbred selectively.

Large-leaved hydrangea species

There are many types and varieties of hydrangea. Among them there are ordinary and winter-hardy, and even remontant, so it is quite difficult to choose the right one. As a rule, when choosing a variety, gardeners are guided by the characteristics of the soil and climate of the region of residence, as well as the expected shade of the inflorescences.

Among the most popular varieties of large-leaved hydrangea are:

1. Avantguard - a large bush with voluminous inflorescences, the diameter of which can reach 30 cm. In this case, the color of the buds can be any, from white to blue and light green.
2. Blaumise - a fairly compact plant, since the height of adult specimens rarely exceeds 120 cm.A distinctive feature is dense inflorescences with petals different sizes (to the edge they are larger, and to the center - smaller). The shade of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. With a neutral reaction, they are blue, but, as the acidity rises, they first become lilac and then pink. Representatives of the variety are not resistant to cold weather, so they must be covered for the winter.
3. "The flushed bride" - a popular name for a variety with a complex name Blushing Bride Endless Summer. The flower got this name because of its unusual feature change the shade of the petals. As soon as they appear, they are painted in a uniform snow-white color, but as they unfold, they begin to turn pink.

The varieties given above are traditional, therefore they are not resistant to cold weather and require mandatory shelter for the winter. However, relatively recently, quite a lot of new breeding species have been bred, which have increased winter hardiness and disease resistance. These species include representatives of the group of varieties Endless Summer, Early Sensation and Red Sensation, terry varieties large-leaved hydrangea (Romance, Symphony, Tugese, Expression, etc.).

The remontant varieties Coco Blank, White Ball, Ripple and others are considered no less popular. Them distinctive feature the fact that flower buds are formed not only on the shoots of the last year, but also on the young growth. In such shrubs, the first buds appear in May or early June, and inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current year a little later.

But the most unusual are blue and multicolored varieties... A shrub with blue inflorescences can be grown on slightly acidic soil (varieties Jomari, Mini Penny, Nikko Blue, etc.), and to obtain multi-colored inflorescences, you should give preference to varieties Ramars, Magic Sunfields or Expression.

Where and how to plant

As mentioned above, hydrangea belongs to people from the subtropics, so simply planting it arbitrarily on any part of the flower bed is not the most best idea... In order for the plant to take root, to form a lush shrub with voluminous inflorescences, you need to try to find a site where the seedling will be comfortable.

In addition to being moisture-loving, large-leaved hydrangea has some other features that relate to lighting and the type of soil. It is these nuances that we will pay special attention to.

Lighting

Many gardeners mistakenly believe that subtropical crops need bright light all day long. In fact, this point of view is not entirely correct, since such plants, including the large-leaved hydrangea, prefer bright, but diffused sunlight. In other words, choose a slightly shaded area for this flower, but try not to plant the hydrangea under large trees. Such plants consume a lot of moisture from the soil, and the flower will simply not have enough water.

Selection of a site for a flower

Lack of moisture and light can delay the start of flowering, or lead to the fact that the inflorescences are small. The ideal location for a hydrangea would be one in which the lower part of the bush is in the shade and the upper part is in the sun.

We select the soil

AT natural conditions hydrangea grows in the lower tier of tropical and subtropical forests, the soil in which is light, loose and has a slightly acidic reaction.

To recreate similar soil conditions at home, mix turf and leafy soil, sand, peat and humus in equal proportions. It is important that there is no excess lime in the soil, as it negatively affects the condition of the plant.

Fortunately, the sensitivity of hydrangeas to soil acidity levels affects appearance inflorescences, so you can easily determine which element your culture lacks. For example, if the petals turn pink, this means that the soil has a slightly alkaline reaction, and blue or saturated blue inflorescences form on acidic soils.

Landing rules

Most hydrangea varieties are sensitive not only to cold, but also to strong temperature changes, so you need to carefully select the time of planting the plant in open ground.

Landing in open ground

It is best to plant in spring, when the threat of frost has passed, the soil warms up and warm weather stabilizes. In addition, it is important to leave enough space for the flower to grow and develop, so at least a meter of free space should be left between individual seedlings.

Of the basic landing rules, it is worth highlighting:

1. Hole depth: depends on the size of the seedling. For small plants, a hole 35 cm deep will be enough. The same width and length of the hole should be. If the plant has already grown, the depth and width of the hole is increased so that the root system of the seedling can be freely spread in the hole.
2. Drainage and soil: a layer of drainage material must be placed on the bottom of each well. Although hydrangea loves moisture, stagnant water at the roots can cause rot and death of the plant. After the drainage layer is laid, you can start filling the hole with the earthen mixture, the composition of which was given above.
3. Fertilizer: during planting, it is necessary to add both mineral and organic fertilizers... They will contribute to the formation of flower buds.

After that, a seedling is installed in the hole, its root system is straightened and sprinkled with soil. Next, you need to water the soil and mulch it. A layer of mulch will retain moisture in the soil, which is extremely important when growing this crop. Peat, sawdust or needles can be used as mulch, and the layer of material should be at least 10 cm.

Large-leaved hydrangea care

Large-leaved hydrangea is considered a relatively unpretentious crop, since it is grown not only on summer cottages, but also in difficult soil and climatic urban conditions.

If all the planting recommendations have been followed, the plant will indeed turn into a lush and spreading shrub, but in order to improve the growing conditions of the crop, you need to provide it with some care. The main recommendations on this matter will be given below.

Watering a flower

Hydrangea is a crop that does not respond well to high lime content in soil or water. Therefore, the watering liquid must be soft. It is best to use rainwater for this purpose, but if it is not possible to collect it, you can also use ordinary tap water, but it must settle for a while before use.

At the same time, constant watering with tap water can provoke chlorosis of the leaves, since even standing tap water is still considered tough. Therefore, periodically, you need to add a few drops of lemon juice or a little vinegar to it to acidify.

As for the frequency of watering, in the absence of natural precipitation, moisture is introduced into the soil about twice a week, pouring a bucket of water under each bush. If there is rain and the mulch around the plant is moderately moist, watering can be reduced to once a month.

Top dressing

This is very simple to do: one side of the shrub twice a month needs to be fed with iron salts or potassium alum (crystals) dissolved in water. The other side of the plant need not be fed. After a while, one side of the inflorescences will turn blue or even blue colour, and the second will remain soft pink.

In addition, organic fertilizers (for example, mullein solution) can be used as top dressing. It is better to introduce them in early spring, before the buds begin to swell, so that the plant can form strong shoots. Further feeding is carried out at the beginning of June, when bud formation begins and directly during flowering. During these periods, you can use any fertilizers, both organic and mineral. The only substance that cannot be fed to hydrangea is ash.

In addition, in the first year after planting, you can periodically water the young hydrangea with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or any other liquid fungicidal agent, since young crops are very susceptible to stem rot.

Pruning and shaping the crown

A common mistake gardeners make is pruning hydrangeas too often and too intensively. In fact, this culture practically does not need this procedure. Rather, on the contrary, shortening the shoots too much or removing excess branches can cause delay or lack of flowering.

Plant pruning

Shortening of shoots is permissible only if they were damaged during wintering or symptoms of disease appeared on them. This feature of hydrangea pruning is due to the fact that the plant forms new flowering shoots in the axils of last year's shoots, and if you remove them, the buds simply cannot form.

It also makes no sense to form the crown of a large-leaved hydrangea, since healthy adult specimens, even without this procedure, form a rather lush and beautiful crown. If the bush is old and needs rejuvenation, you can cut out only some of the oldest shoots so that replacement branches form in their place.

Wintering

The main task when growing hydrangeas is to keep the plant alive during the winter. Particular attention should be paid to the tops of the shoots, which form flower buds, but more often than other parts of the plant suffer from cold.

Winter culture shelter

Preparations for wintering should begin in the fall. If the autumn is dry, the plant needs to be watered intensively, since the amount of moisture in the soil will determine how successfully the plant will endure the winter. It is also advisable to spray the branches with Bordeaux liquid so that they do not shed under the covering material and become a victim of the fungus.

The first winter shelter is provided at the end of October, when the first autumn frosts begin. To do this, the bushes are spud to a height of 30 cm, and in early November, the branches are bent to the ground, covered with dry spruce branches or leaves. You can put a box on top so that the shelter does not fly apart in the wind. Then you can cover the box with burlap or agrofibre and leave it there until spring.