How the grape bush grows and develops. Harvesting and rooting of grapes

To receive you need to large clusters tasty grapes in the fall, systematic care, feeding and protection of the plant from pests should be carried out during the development period of the bush. With the experience of cultivating crops, knowledge of the basic rules and increasing the yield of the plantation and the formation of the vine comes.

The structure of the bush and the purpose of forming the crown

The grape bush consists of a root system and an underground stem. Above the soil surface is the vertical trunk or head of the bush. The trunk is formed in areas where it is not required to cover the bush for the winter. For a covering bush, a stem is not needed, and from the head there are sleeves, a perennial part of the bush. A vine, branches on which the crop is formed, departs from the sleeves.

The goal of vines formation is to achieve productivity. That is, the nutrition of the bush should be aimed at obtaining berries. To obtain a high-quality harvest, it is required to leave as many ovaries on the bush as the plant will feed and bring to a mature state. Therefore, during the season, in addition to watering, fertilizing and processing, it is required to form a bush so that each leaf is illuminated and works for the harvest.

Pruning grapes and caring for the vine

In different periods of development, pruning and pinching of the lashes performs different tasks. Usually work takes place in three stages:

• pruning grapes in spring;
• green operations;
• autumn pruning of grapes.

If you do not prune, pinch the bush regularly, it runs wild, the yield decreases. However, in some cases, the bush is formed according to its requirements. For a decorative bush, the vine may not shorten and twine around the frame of the shelter, but then the harvest on it will be a secondary, not the main factor.

Pruning the vine in spring

in the spring, after removing the winter shelter, it consists in revising the overwintered vine. At this time, the condition of the overwintered bush is assessed. Even before the start of sap flow with sharp instruments and special techniques, the sleeve is formed and the vine is prepared. Here, the removal of weak shoots is carried out; in the first years of the development of the trunk, sleeves are formed on which vines grow in the future. The task of the master is to correctly cut and shape the plant so as not to disrupt the path of sap flow from the sleeve to the vine.

At the same time, the entire condition of the bush is assessed for winter preservation. Depending on the degree of freezing, a stem is formed.

When performing spring pruning of grapes, it must be remembered that this is a surgical operation on a tree, therefore, you should work with disinfected instruments, and make wounds sparing.

After shoots begin to appear on the branches, the strongest are left and one by one, the rest all break out. From the very beginning, a bush is formed with the optimal number of branches, which should have enough lighting and nutrition.

Summer vine care

Gardeners know how to form a vine correctly from experience. It is believed that you need to know the characteristics of each plant and talk to it during work. Formation work consists of the following operations:

• pruning the vineyard in June;
• pinching the trunk;
• regulation of brushes;
• chasing vines.

Pruning grapes in the summer after flowering is to regulate the yield. The fewer brushes the vine feeds, the fuller and tastier they will be. It is necessary to find a balance so as not to overload the bush and get a good harvest. Harvest formation comes with the experience of cultivation.

The yield is normalized again after the formation of the brushes, leaving one or two of the very first brushes with poured berries on the shoot. In this case, small ovaries are removed. The procedure is done at a time when the berries are still the size of peas.

At the end of June, the shoots are shortened by pinching, leaving five leaves above each bunch of grapes, which is enough to form a crop. At the same time, all stepchildren that appear in the leaf axils are removed, leaving only those that are required for the formation of the vine in summer. In June, the ends of the vine are pinched to limit its growth. Wherein most of food will be redistributed to the filling of bunches of grapes. However, those young shoots that grow for replacement are not shortened.

Constantly during the summer, there is a garter of shoots, after they have grown more than 20 cm above the lower tier of the wire. At the same time, the condition of illumination of each leaf is observed. The grower considers the most important in crop management to regulate the green mass, watering and feeding the plant at the time.

Another agrotechnical technique that accelerates the maturation of brushes is vine chasing. This means that all the tops of the left shoots are removed, leaving 13-15 leaves. In these conditions, intensive development of stepchildren begins in the leaf axils. Stepsons should be removed regularly. The video set at the end of the article will help you master the basic techniques of minting grapes in summer.

Among winegrowers, there are also opponents of the use of coinage. They point to the fact that growing without the use of vine shortening promotes root mass growth. They argue that the plant is less sick and the berries are tastier. However, disputes are only possible in relation to vineyards cultivated without shelter. For stemless varieties, the formation of the vine in the summer is mandatory.

Top dressing and processing of grapes

At the same time, nitrogen fertilization is excluded in the second half of summer, and the growth of greenery slows down. Phosphorus-potassium nutrition continues, it improves the filling, the taste of the grapes and increases the winter hardiness of the culture. Ash dressing of the trunk is especially appreciated.

For better illumination of the bush, which is already beginning to lose its strength by the rays of the sun, three weeks before harvesting, part of the leaves from the vine is removed, giving maximum illumination to the bunches. Be sure to remove the leaves at the bottom of the bush and from the bunches. Airing will exclude the possibility of fungal diseases, which are especially widespread during the nighttime cold snap and growing.

Vine care would be incomplete if it did not include activities such as controlling fungal diseases and insect pests. Those that can destroy him include oidium and mildew. Therefore, if a characteristic plaque or spots appear on the leaves on the back side, it is necessary to treat with fungicides. Most often, preventive treatment with Topaz is carried out.

Insect pest grape mite is removed with insecticidal preparations. However, three weeks before harvesting, any processing is prohibited. During the season, preventive treatments of the vineyard are carried out three times. In the case of the first signs of fungal diseases, the entire garden is treated.

How to prune grapes in the fall

Autumn care for a vine is to properly prepare it for wintering. How to prune grapes in the fall and prepare the vine for wintering in each climatic region is decided differently. Standard bushes require the preparation of the vine during the period when the leaves fall off. Then cut out all weak shoots, remove their young green parts. The vines are carefully removed from the supports, tied in bundles and placed in specially prepared grooves. In this tubule, covered with foliage and soil, the vines will wait for the next year to repeat their life cycle.

Summer chasing of grape vines - video

Grapes, like any plant, include various organs, each of which performs a specific vital function. An adult grape bush has aboveground and underground parts. Roots belong to one another - stem shoots eyes leaves antennae and inflorescences consisting of flowers and berries collected in bunches. Consider the main parts of the vine.

Outside, the trunk of the grapes is covered with bark, the dead layers of which are annually separated

Trunk grapes are a continuation of the underground trunk, the size of which depends on the system of forming the bush. Sleeves, shoulders (perennial branches of the trunk) and smaller parts of the bush (horns, knots, etc.), when pruned, which form fruit vines, are intended to correctly distribute the fruitful shoots and put leaves and clusters in the best color conditions.

The old bark does not protect the trunk from unfavorable external factors and serves as a wintering place for various harmful insects, so it must be cleaned and burned every 3-4 years.

Grape shoots

A summer or green shoot is the youngest leaf bearing part of the vine.

Escapes grapes - branches of a vine that are in the growth stage or have completed the first year of their existence. They have thickenings (nodes), usually more colored than the rest of the shoot.

1 - knot, 2 - leaf petiole, 3 - internode, 4 - full diaphragm, 5 - incomplete diaphragm, 6 - pith, 7 - peephole, 8 - antenna

The section of the shoot between two nodes is called an internode. . At the base of the vine shoot, internodes are short, and in other parts they are approximately the same length. On a longitudinal section of an annual shoot, the core is visible in the form of a loose white mass (by the end of the growing season it turns brown). Behind it is a layer of light green or slightly yellowish wood, followed by a green layer of cambium and brown bark.

At the level of each node there is a septum called a diaphragm. The thickness and shape of the diaphragm are very different, but within the same variety they are always clearer and more fully expressed on the tendril node. At the beginning of the growing season, the shoots are herbaceous and fragile and painted in a pale green color, in some species they are brown or reddish. The top of the shoot bends downward during growth.

The steepness of the bend is an indicator of the growth strength of the shoot: if the bend of the apex is steep, then the growth of the shoot is strong. The straightening of the apex indicates a suspension of shoot growth.

Grape leaf

The grape leaf is the main organ of respiration and transpiration.

Sheet grapes are the most important organ of nutrition for the vine. In the leaves, in the process of photosynthesis, the formation of plastic substances necessary for building a crop occurs. In different grape varieties, the leaves differ in size, the nature of the blade, the size and shape of the teeth, color, pubescence, the size of the petiole, etc.

The surface of the leaf can be smooth, wrinkled, bubbly, folded, or funnel-grooved. With a sufficiently developed leaf surface, not only good growth of shoots, the appearance of rudimentary inflorescences and a bountiful harvest in a given year, but also the accumulation and deposition of a rich supply of nutrients for the development of a bush next year follows.

Tendrils of grapes

Whiskers SUPPORT AND SPEED UP PLANT DEVELOPMENT

Antennae grapes are of no small importance in the existence of the vine. They are provided for the purpose of attaching the grapes to the support and make it possible for the plant to rise to a decent height, as a result of which the leaves and clusters have a great chance of absorbing sunlight.

Almost absolutely all types of vine tendrils alternate: in any 2 sites they exist, and in the third they are absent. Only in certain species do they form in any node.

Flowering grapes

Flowers are considered the softest susceptible component of the plant.

During the flowering of grapes, small flowers (2-4 millimeters) are formed, yellowish-emerald, hanging in bunches. There are 3 main types of leaflets: male, bisexual and female. Male flowers are found to a greater extent in non-domesticated grape varieties and in North American rootstock species. Plants with this type of flower have large inflorescences and do not bring berries.

In the practice of viticulture, male flower pollen is used for the purpose of synthetic pollination of functional plant species. The bisexual flower has a well-formed ovary and stamens with pollen necessary for fertilization. In many types of grapes, the flower is bisexual and capable of self-pollination.

In the so-called female flowers, pollen does not have the ability to fertilize. For this reason, species with a similar flower bear fruit only if foreign pollen is pollinated. The branch is formed after the insemination of the flowers and the setting of the berries. It consists of a crest of berries, stalks and stems. The branch is attached to the process by a peduncle of different sizes.

Bunch of grapes

After ripening, the berries of certain species with a clear color take on an attractive appearance thanks to the sunlight.

According to the figure, bunches of grapes are:

conical,

cylindrical,

spreading

transitional.

Depending on external circumstances and environmental factors, bunches of grapes are divided into small (less than 13 cm), ordinary (13-18 cm), large (18-26) and very large (more than 26 cm).

The berries of different types of grapes differ in a huge variety. According to statistics, they are very small (about 10 millimeters), small (about 12 millimeters), mediocre (up to 17 millimeters), large (up to 25 millimeters) and very large (exceeding 25 millimeters). According to the figure - convex, oval, rounded, elongated, long, flattened.

From among the types of grapes, it is possible to find clusters of absolutely all colors of colors: pale emerald, iridescent scarlet, lilac, blue, dark golden yellowish, etc.

BERRIES GRAPES COVERED WITH PRUIN

Berries have a waxy skin, sometimes (). The pulp contains glucose, acids, various vitamins and various aromatic elements. In many types of grapes, the nectar of the berries is transparent. Only in isolated species is the nectar colored in a wine-reddish tone. The skin of the berries in some species is gentle and refined, literally bursting, in others it differs in significant width and strength. It contains special coloring elements. From its structure in significant dependence are: flavor of berries, the ability of the species to endure long-term storage and transportation.

Grape seeds

In a berry, the number of seeds varies from one or more

Grape seeds are small, pear-shaped with an elongated beak. Ripe grape seeds have a chestnut color. In many types of grapes, the seeds are quite simply separated from the pulp, in some species there are no seeds at all.

Most seedless berries are small. Under unfavorable negative pollination circumstances, many bisexuals, especially female species, can form seedless, pea-sized berries. This manifestation is called berry peas.

Extreme conditions for southern berries are not a hindrance! A grape lover will be able to grow a vine on his plot or in an apartment and get a good harvest in the second year after planting!

1) How grapes grow

Grapes are perennial berry bushes, reaching a height of 15 to 40 m. It has a branched stem, which eventually acquires a tree, reaching 0.7 m in diameter. Long vines, bunches and foliage develop from the stem. Clinging with antennae to any support, it stretches up. Grapes are not a whimsical plant and adapts even to the most difficult climate in Russia. Bravely endures defeat by hail, recovers after a harsh winter and easily tolerates autumn and spring pruning. Grapes are a heat-loving plant, but the process of photosynthesis does not stop even at a temperature of -25 degrees. The fruits of the berry bush have a whole storehouse of vitamins:

• Phosphorus.
• Vitamins B, PP, C, P.
• Copper.
• Iron.
• Zinc.
• Folic acid.
• Silicon.

2) How grapes grow - cultivation

There are two ways to breed grapes: vegetatively and by seed. On your windowsill, you can completely grow a grape seedling by transplanting it from a cramped pot into a prepared growing place in the spring. But it should be borne in mind that when propagated by seeds, some grape varieties change their qualities for the worse.

• Seeds for planting are selected from overripe bunches of grapes, the seeds of which are dark brown in color.
• The most valuable are large seeds with a thick shell.

The vegetative method of propagation of a culture involves 2 methods - cuttings and layering. When propagated by cuttings, planting material is prepared in the fall, keeping the cuttings in a cool place. In early March, they are planted in plastic cups and grown until young shoots appear. When propagating by layering, the strongest shoot is chosen and rooted in a prepared hole located 20 cm from the mother bush. Watering and hilling throughout the season, it is recommended to replant only next spring. Reproduction by layering is considered a more successful way of breeding grapes, in which it is possible to preserve all the taste of the mother bush.

3) How grapes grow in an apartment - what you need to know

It is convenient and beautiful to grow grapes in an apartment, in addition to this, you get the opportunity to harvest 2 times a year! The best place for grapes is the windowsill on the sunny side of the house. For cultivation grape apartment:

• Prepare a box for planting cuttings measuring 10X12X12 cm.
• Lay river sand at the bottom of the box in a layer of 2 cm, which will serve as an excellent drainage.
• Top up with humus and fertile soil 50/50, add 50 g of mineral fertilizers.
• With the onset of warm weather, take out the established stalk to the balcony or garden, bringing it into the room in case of frost.
• By the fall, a shoot with 15–20 nodes will form on the seedling, which will begin to bear fruit next spring. Closer to winter, the grapes shed their foliage and require rest, duration about three months. At this time, remove the plant in a cool place (+2, +8 degrees).
• Each year, transplant the grapes, keeping the earthy clod, in a box 10-15 cm deeper than usual. Pruning the plant is done after shedding the leaves, remove from fruiting shoots up to 8 eyes.

4) How grapes grow on the site

When choosing a site for grapes, give preference to near buildings on the south side. In the daytime, the plant will be warm and light, and at night the heated surface from the sun will provide the grapes with additional heat, contributing to the ripening of ripe berries ahead of time. A planting pit for a grape seedling is prepared in the fall:

• Prepare a hole 70 to 80 cm deep and about 60 cm wide.
• The bottom must be covered with chipped bricks or pebbles, about 25 cm high.
• Prepare a soil mixture at the rate of 1: 1: 1, consisting of river sand, clay and fertile soil.
• The soil mixture must be mixed with phosphorus fertilizers and covered by 20 cm in the planting place.
• Put well-rotted manure in the last layer and fill it with a bucket of hot water.
• After planting, mulch the plant and water it with water.

To form a beautiful shape, place a support next to the shrub and fix the vine next to it. Pruning is done in the spring - for the growth of the side stems, remove unnecessary shoots from above and pinch the top while pinching. Apply top dressing in the spring before flowering and when the berries are ripe. For the winter, the grapes are covered with a film, and the root system is sprinkled with sawdust or peat.

It is unlikely that there is another plant in the world that is so cared for and so nurtured in the gardens in the south and in the north, studied up and down and revered as the greatest gift of nature.

Repeated references in the Bible, a special science that studies only this plant, a branch of medicine that treats diseases with the help of juice and wine from it - all this confirms the uniqueness of grapes.

The vine was sung in poetry, immortalized in the world's masterpieces of painting, described in medical treatises. And she's certainly worth it.

The vine is a resistant plant. In southern countries, it suffers a drought for several months. In cold areas, it does not freeze at low temperatures of -20 ° C. The grape bush grows well on barren sandy and rocky soils.

The structure of the vine is the main reason for the plant's high adaptability to different weather conditions.

In general, a grape bush is no different from the structure of any plant:

• root system;
• trunk;
• crown.

The root system of the plant is very strong. Sometimes it goes deep into the ground up to six meters, providing the vine with water and food.

Important! The root, in addition to the function of retention and provision, carries out the work of accumulating nutrients.

The structure of the root device is complex. By the time of regrowth, the roots are old (skeletal) and young (overgrown). Roots grow all year round at + 9 ° C and above.

Korneshtamb very firmly anchors the plant in the ground, it ends with a heel. This is a stalk that has been planted in the ground. The top of the cutting is called the head. Here dormant buds are located, which wake up when the bush freezes or is pruned heavily.

By location, the roots are divided into superficial, lateral and main. Above, superficial or dewy roots grow, trapping and consuming rain moisture.

Calcaneal (main) and median (lateral) roots assimilate and accumulate nutrients, extract water from the depths of the soil.

The trunk is the weakest point of the vine. Over time, it only grows in breadth.
The crown of the vine consists of sleeves and shoots. They develop buds, inflorescences, ovaries, bunches of berries, whiskers, leaves.

Sleeves or shoulders are perennial shoots with dark bark, cut off to 35 cm. They function as skeletal branches, fruiting branches develop on them.

The annual vine is a two-year-old shoot with a ripe chocolate-colored bark - a young shoot with bunches grows on it in the current season. They are shortened to 30 cm.

Fruit shoots (fruit arrows) - this year's shoots with green bark bear the main leaf load, inflorescences develop on them and clusters ripen. The shoot is shortened by 4-15 eyes, in the fall it is removed after fruiting.

Lateral or overgrown shoots are unwanted shoots, usually growing on an old tree. The berries grow on them underdeveloped and sour. They are removed in the summer.

The fattening shoot or top is a green shoot, the length and thickness of which is much greater than the neighboring lianas. Appear after freezing or improper pruning of the bush. Usually removed immediately after regrowth.

Stepson is a young shoot growing from the axils of the leaves of the main shoots.

Bud - a leaf or shoot grows from it.

The leaf is an organ of respiration and nutrition; it consists of a leaf plate and a petiole.

The mustache is a climbing organ with which the vine is held on horizontal or vertical surfaces. After fruiting, the mustache will become lignified.

Inflorescences are reborn whiskers, contain male and female flowers. Bunches with berries develop from them.

Ovary - green berries formed from the inflorescence after flowering.

Important! The vine, due to its structure and constant renewal, can live for several hundred years and at the same time actively bear fruit.

Wine made from berries harvested from old grape bushes is highly prized.

Care

If you study the structure of the vine well, you can easily understand the basic rules of plant care.

Grapes grow well in any soil except waterlogged. It is important for him to get enough warmth, so planting is done on the southern and southwestern slopes with maximum illumination or on well-lit flat areas.

After choosing the right landing site, you should take care of others necessary work in the vineyard:

• installation of trellises;
• drainage pipe laying;
• garter;
• pruning;
• watering;
• treatment for diseases;
• protection against wasps.

Vine care is described in many books in great detail. But when growing grapes, a lot of small questions always arise, the answer to which can be found only after gaining your own experience.

Tapestry

Usually, the trellises are installed in united long rows in the direction from north to south. The standard height is 2.2 m, the distance between the rows is 2.5 m. The first wire is pulled at a height of 50 cm from the ground, all subsequent ones - at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

Important! The wire should be tightly tensioned without sagging.

Trellis designs are varied. Trellis allow sleeves to be positioned closer to the sun and allow for convenient harvesting and pruning.

Drainage

Laying a drainage pipe at a depth of 80 cm will help the grapes thrive in any heat. Fertilizers, which are fed through the pipe along with water, are absorbed by the roots instantly.

Pruning

Determining the degree of ripening by touch comes with experience. Novice growers may be advised to prune the top of the vine with a white center, leaving the shoots with a green inside.

Important! The main pruning is carried out in the fall after the leaves have flown around. The cold and damp part of the stem is cut off, and the dry and warm part is left.

On a two-year sleeve, no more than 3-4 shoots of the current season are left. The new vine grows 0.5–1 m long. A three-year-old vine grows 10 m per season. Grape rejuvenation occurs by shortening the old vine at the point of growing a strong new shoot.

Important! In the spring, pruning is not done, as sap flow in the vine begins very early.

After the spring pruning, the vine begins to "cry", it can run out of juice and dry out. It is possible to trim the dead after winter or diseased sleeves not earlier than the second half of June, after the end of the sap flow.

Watering

The vine needs watering especially strongly three times per season:

• when budding;
• after flowering;
• when ripe berries.

Important! Do not water the plant before and during flowering, this will lead to shedding of flowers. And also do not water before harvesting the bunches, as the ripening of the berries is delayed.

Watering is carried out several times at the right time:

1. Spring water-charging watering before opening the eyes.
2. Vegetative watering is carried out once a week for a young plant and 2 times a month for an adult. 5–20 liters of water are poured under the bush with 1 tbsp. l. (for 10 l) Kemira combi fertilizer.
3. Autumn watering is very important for the plant. Wintering on dry land should not be allowed.

Protection

5-7 kg / sq. Are poured under the bush. m. of humus, prepared cut off shoots are tied and treated with 5-7% iron vitriol from mold.

Important! The main protective treatment it is carried out in the fall, after harvesting and before hiding for the winter.

Against ticks and spray with Thiovid or colloidal sulfur. A decoction of chamomile, tobacco or Rovikurt is used against the leafworm. During this period, it is worth mixing fungicides and insecticides to spray the vines.

Embossing, that is, removing the upper part of the shoot with immature leaves, and pinching reduces the number of gall mites by 90%.

In the fall, the wasps turn from helpers to the grower into his headache. They eat away the sweet berries of ripe grapes, since the thin skin is unable to protect them. Treatment of bushes with Antitlin and "liquid smoke" will help to cope with this nuisance. Wasps do not tolerate the smell of smoke and tobacco.

Reproduction

Varietal grapes are not propagated by seeds, only vegetatively: by cuttings, layering, grafting.

Cuttings

For propagation by cuttings, first choose a suitable mother bush - varietal, healthy, high-yielding. Then cuttings are cut from fully matured annual fruiting growths, choosing the middle or lower part of the vine. At the same time, tops, coppice shoots are not suitable.

Important! The degree of maturity is determined using ordinary iodine. If you moisten the end of the vine in a 1% iodine solution, then the ripened vines will become almost black in color, and the underdeveloped ones will become pale green.

The harvesting of shanks in the southern regions takes place in the spring, in areas where grapes are a covering crop, in the fall, during pruning. The standard length of the shank is 60–70 cm, the thickness is 5–10 mm.

If possible, it is better to cut the vine into double blanks, doubling the length. From below, the shank is cut at a distance of 1–2 cm from the knot, from above - in the middle between the knots.

To preserve the blanks until spring, the cuttings are immersed in a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate for 2 seconds, dried, tied in a bundle, tied with a tag and put into storage:

• underground into a pit;
• in a box of sand;
• in the refrigerator.

The overwintered shanks are taken out of the storage places in advance and they begin to prepare for planting: they sort out, discard the dried ones, refresh the sections, apply furrows, soak in water, do kilchevaya, waxing the upper sections, treating the lower sections with stimulants.

Without the complex process of kilchevaya, cuttings root well after two days of soaking, as well as planting lying to a depth of no more than 10-15 cm. Two buds remain above the ground, a bucket of water is poured under the seedling.

Be sure to keep the ground constantly moist. Watering is repeated in the spring once every 2 weeks, in the summer - once a week.

Layers

Reproduction of your favorite variety by layering allows you to quickly get a very strong fruiting bush. Ripe and green vines are used.

Ripe vines can be laid in the fall by choosing a couple of tops and placing them in grooves 25–30 cm deep and covered with humus. On the shoots, leaves, antennae, stepsons are removed.

In the spring, the pinned shoot is buried to a depth of 15 cm, covered with nutritious soil, watered with water with potassium permanganate. The branch is done in 2-3 years.

Green vines are rooted using the same technology, but the laying of the vine in the soil begins in the second half of July. In this case, the end of the green layer, left above the ground, is pinched over 3 sheets.

Graft

Always produced during the growing season of the grapes. Vaccination can serve several purposes:

1. This is the most suitable way to replace a variety on bushes.
2. Planting protection from quarantine pest - phylloxera. Control tactics - grafting the variety on pest-resistant rootstocks.

There are many ways to get vaccinated:

• into cleavage;
• in the side cut;
• copulation for a green shoot;
• budding.

Moreover, each method has several execution techniques, each method is good for its execution time - spring, summer or autumn.

Conclusion

The vine is a real miracle of nature. Wherever this plant grows, it is revered and flowered, the secrets of cultivation are passed on from generation to generation.

Lesson 1 - The structure of the grape bush

In natural natural conditions A grape bush is a perennial liana with several climbing trees or rocks, and sometimes, creeping along the ground and reaching for the sunlight, flexible, many-meter woody stems, at the ends of which young green shoots-vines, bearing grape clusters, develop annually. A feature of grapes is that only green shoots that develop from the buds of last year's buds bear fruit on it, i.e. annual vines.

The grape bush (Fig. 1) consists of two systems: underground and aboveground. In the underground part of the grape bush there is an underground bole with a root system and a bush head - a thickening, which is the beginning of the aboveground part of the bush.

Rice. 1. Scheme of the formation of a grape bush

The underground bole is the stalk from which the grape bush was grown. In its lower part and along the lateral surface, roots developed, and shoots grew from the upper eyes, from which the aerial part of the bush is formed within 3-4 years.
These shoots become the backbone of the bush and are called sleeves. The stem and sleeves develop only in thickness after the first year of life.

The roots are distinguished by the height of the stem, they differ into heel (main), middle (lateral) and dew (upper), and according to the degree of development - old (skeletal) and young (overgrown) roots. Skeletal roots are solid, covered with cork, serve as conductors of water with dissolved minerals in it, accumulate and store reserves of nutrients. Young fibrous roots suck out water and minerals from the soil, they synthesize organic substances - food for the grape bush. Each young root has a growth cone at the end, where the formation of new cells occurs, i.e. development of the root system. With age, some of the skeletal roots die off. The remaining six or seven continue to develop, forming the roots of subsequent orders: the third, fourth, etc.

The roots of the grapes do not have a dormant period, like the aboveground part and the bole in winter, and under favorable temperature conditions (+ 9 degrees and above) they are able to develop all year round. But the strongest growth, of course, occurs in the spring - summer and autumn periods. The root system of grapes is usually located at a depth of 0.6 - 1.5 meters. In structured, well-drained soils, the roots can deepen up to 2-3 meters or more. The radius of the location of the roots is 3-4 meters or more.
The roots of Euro-Asian grape varieties can withstand temperatures up to -5, -70 s, and Amur and some American varieties up to -9 ... -120 s.

Aboveground stem is a vertical stem, a continuation of the underground stem. In the northern (Siberian) covering viticulture, the above-ground bole is not allowed, it is not formed.
To provide protection and shelter of grapes from frost, a head is formed in the upper part of the underground stem - a thickened upper part of the underground stem, then which leaves 2-4 and more perennial vines. The head is much thicker than the underground stem because is the base of developing vines (arms). In order to correctly form a grape bush, correctly carry out pruning and other operations that ensure the development and yield, you need to know the aboveground organs of the grapes, their name and the purpose of each of them.

Sleeves (shoulders) - perennial vines, more than 35 cm long, extending from the head of the bush. Depending on the shape of the bush being created: fan, cordon, bowl, etc., or depending on the design of the supports: single-plane trellis, two-plane trellis, gazebo, the number of sleeves in the bush can be different - from one sleeve to six or more.
Horns - shortened sleeves (shorter than 35 cm).
All green growth of the current year is called annual shoots, and after ripening, from autumn to spring of next year, one-year vines

Rice. 2. Organs of the grape shoot.
1-main shoot, 2- stepson, 3- second-order stepson, 40- twin shoot, 5- buds, 6- angular bud, 7- inflorescence, 8- leaves, 9- tendril, 10-year-old vine

Stepsons are young shoots developing from the axils of the leaves of the main shoots (Figure 3). If you pinch the top of the stepson, stepchildren of the second order develop from the axils of its leaves, on which, in turn, stepchildren of the third order can arise.

The annual vine is the matured shoot of the last year, from which new green shoots with bunches (fruit shoots) are developing in the current season. If there are no bunches on a green shoot, such a shoot is called sterile.

A fruiting vine is considered to be a fruit arrow, on which the shoots of the current year (annual shoots) have developed and bore fruit. Usually, the vines that bear fruit, together with annual shoots on them, are removed during pruning in the fall. But any one-year-old shoot that has ripened on the arrow is ready to bear fruit next year. From such shoots, new fruit arrows can be formed. Annual shoot, the thickness of which at the 8th internode is more than 10 mm. considered "fattening".

A vine shoot consists of nodes (thickenings) and internodes. The center of the shoot in the internodes is occupied by the core. On the node are located: a leaf with a wintering eye in its axil, a stepson may develop in the axil of a leaf, and a tendril or inflorescence on the opposite side of the node. Sometimes an extra-axillary shoot can develop in the place of the antennae.

At the node where the tendril or inflorescence develops, there is a full diaphragm dividing the internode. Where there is no antenna or inflorescence on the node, the diaphragm is incomplete (underdeveloped). The full diaphragm is the "storehouse" of nutrients.

The crown is the top of the growing shoot.

The growth point is the apical part of the shoot. During the period of active growth, the apical part is strongly curved (nutation); when the growth decays, the apex straightens somewhat. This happens in late August - early September.

The leaf consists of a carved plate and a long stem. The shape, size, ruggedness of the leaves are varied and are a varietal characteristic of grapes. Leaves perform the most important function in the life of grapes - photosynthesis, i.e. production of organic nutrients (starch, sugars, amino acids, etc.) Leaves absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and release oxygen. Leaves not only assimilate and breathe, but also evaporate excess moisture from the roots. During the day, grape leaves from an area of ​​1 m2 evaporate up to 1.5 liters of water.

The kidney is the embryo of the future shoot. The buds are united in eyes, forming in the axil of each leaf on a green shoot.

The wintering peephole is a complex organ in which several buds are combined, densely covered with hairs and scales. There are kidneys: central (main), replacement (spare) and stepson (summer). If for some reason the main kidney is damaged, then replacement kidneys develop. One eye can have from two to six replacement buds. There is only one stepchild kidney in the ocellus and it develops in the ocellus earlier than others. If the main and replacement buds develop after overwintering, then the stepson's bud is formed into a shoot on a vegetating green shoot in the current season.

Rice. 3 Grape shoot
1- node, 2- internode, 3- peephole, 4- leaf petiole, 5- stepson, 6- full diaphragm, 7- not full diaphragm, 8- core, 9- antenna.

Corner buds - the first 2-3 eyes at the base of each shoot. They are poorly developed and often sterile.

Dormant buds are buds that have not developed and remain in the nodes of a perennial vine, on the head of a bush and in an underground trunk. These buds are very viable and have the function of restoring and rejuvenating the vine. Shoots developing from dormant buds on the head and sleeves are called tops, and those developing from an underground trunk are called coppice shoots.

Extra-axillary shoots are called shoots formed on the nodes instead of antennae. These shoots are capable of bearing fruit in some varieties, developing inflorescences at the first node.

Twins, tees are shoots that develop from replacement buds together with the main central shoot. All of them can be fruitful, but inflorescences on shoots from replacement buds are weaker. Sometimes up to six shoots (panicle) develop from one eye at the same time. In such cases, one or two of the strongest are left, the rest are broken.

Antenna is an organ for natural fixation of the shoot on solid supports (in natural conditions these are trees, rocks, etc.). Antennae are formed at the nodes on the opposite side of the leaf; here either a tendril, or an inflorescence, or an extra-axillary shoot can develop. The tendril can also develop on the inflorescence crest, thus securing the bunch on a solid support. The first tendril grows on Euro-Asian varieties from the 4th - 5th node. The antennae are arranged in pairs along the length of the shoot: two nodes with antennae, one without. And only in isabelle varieties, antennae on the shoots of each node. With the artificial fixation of vines, the tendrils lose their meaning, and since they take nutrients for their development, it is advisable to cut out part of the antennae.

Lesson 2 - Vegetative propagation of grapes

PREPARATION AND STORAGE OF SHEARS

Planting material - cuttings or seedlings should be purchased in nurseries or from experienced growers who guarantee varietal conformity of the material and the absence of dangerous diseases!
Do not purchase seedlings from regions infected with phylloxera!
Any planting material must be disinfected, both at the place of preparation and before planting!

Grapes as a perennial plant annually undergo a small annual development cycle, consisting of a dormant period and a vegetation period.

The dormant period begins after leaf fall and ends in spring with climatic warming. During the period of winter dormancy in the plant, the physiological processes that support life are attenuated and very weak. Dormant buds do not germinate even under favorable temperature conditions. This is the so-called physiological rest.

From the second half of January, the plant goes into a state of forced dormancy. In this state, a quick awakening of vital activity is possible under favorable temperature conditions (t = + 100 s and more). This period is used for winter grafting and accelerated cultivation of self-rooted and grafted grape seedlings.

For winter cultivation of grape seedlings, cuttings of a matured annual vine are used. For propagation, cuttings are selected with the most typical varietal qualities of mother bushes with high yields.

The most suitable for grafting are shoots that have developed on the vine of the previous year from the central buds. The stalk is part of a mature shoot. Cuttings can be of any size, even one-eyed ones. Rational, convenient for rooting, can be considered 2 x and 3 x eye cuttings. The most viable are cuttings harvested in the fall after the end of the growing season. For cuttings, ripe shoots with a diameter of 7-10 mm are selected. Thinner cuttings take root less well. But some varieties have thin vines, such varieties will also have thinner cuttings.

When cutting cuttings, the vine is cleaned of antennae and stepsons. The lower cut is made at an angle to the axis 3-4 cm below the node on which there was a tendril or bunch. Recall the previous lesson - "At the node where the tendril or inflorescence develops, there is a full diaphragm separating internodes. The full diaphragm is a" storehouse of nutrients. "This means that the nutrition of the first young roots on initial stage development will be provided by this pantry. The upper cut is made perpendicular to the axis 4-5 cm above the knot. Then the cuttings are collected in a bunch, aligned at the lower ends and tied in 2 places. A label with the name of the variety is attached to each bundle. Before laying the cuttings for winter storage, it is advisable to soak them in water for a day, then spray or immerse them for a few seconds in a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. These are preventive measures that protect cuttings from drying out and mold formation during storage.

Cuttings are normally kept in plastic bags in a ventilated basement, at a temperature of 0 - + 6 0C. You can cover the cuttings with wet, clean sand. For this, a hole is dug 0.5 m deep. Bunches of cuttings are placed horizontally into it, which are then sprinkled with moderately moist sand. A wooden control cover is laid on the sprinkled cuttings and everything is covered with sand to the top. When digging out the cuttings, the sand is thrown with a shovel to the control cover. After removing the lid, so as not to damage the kidneys, the cuttings are dug out by hand. It is very convenient to store a small number of cuttings in two 1.5 liter plastic bottles with cut bottoms. After placing the cuttings in one of the bottles with a second bottle with a cut bottom and 2 longitudinal cuts, the packaging with cuttings is securely closed.

Rice. 4. Packing cuttings for winter storage

This storage method is convenient because the cuttings do not need to be tied. It is very convenient with this method to air the cuttings. To do this, just open the plugs. And airing the cuttings 2-3 times during storage in any way is necessary.

Preparation of cuttings for winter rooting begins at the end of February. The cuttings are taken out of storage, cleaned of sand, then washed in a solution of potassium permanganate from possible mold, after which they begin to check their condition in appearance.

The condition of the wood is determined by the updated cross-section. It should be bright green, when you press on the handle near the cut from the wood, slight traces of moisture should stand out.
Having made a longitudinal section of the lower eye, we check the condition of the kidneys. Living buds in the eye also have a bright green color. Dark dots or spots on the cut of the eye indicate damage to the kidneys. Cuttings with dark spots, blackened or brown bark and wood, with damaged buds are discarded.

The optimum moisture content of the vine is 51-52%. During storage, some of the moisture can evaporate, so it is imperative to restore moisture in the cuttings to optimum. For the lock, it is better to use a soft rainwater(melted snow).
The time of soaking can be, depending on the condition of the cuttings, from one to three days.

WINTER ROOTING OF WOODEN CUTTINGS.

Before rooting begins, each stalk must be labeled with the variety name. The bottom cuts of the cuttings are necessarily updated directly below the nodes. Once again, remember that the lower node of the cutting should be with a full diaphragm. The slice can be any: - straight, perpendicular to the axis; oblique - one-sided; double-sided (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5.a- three-headed cutting, prepared for rooting, b- straight cut under the knot, c- oblique cut, d- double-sided cut

It is believed that oblique cuts increase the area of ​​formation of callus - plant tissue from which roots develop.
It is important that the cuts are smooth, without crushing the wood, i.e. they need to be done with a very sharp knife. On the lower part of the cutting from opposite sides along the bark, you can scratch grooves with a knife, which will also become the site of root formation. The lower bud may not be removed, but when you remove it, we once again control the state of the cutting. Top cuts of cuttings are not updated. They are perpendicular to the axis of the cuttings and 4-5 cm above the upper node. The upper cut should be protected from fungal putrefactive bacteria by dipping for a second in a molten mixture of paraffin and wax (2: 1).

The most common and acceptable way of rooting cuttings is by sprouting in cups. The prepared cuttings are kept in an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (0.5 tablets per 5 liters of water) or honey (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) for 24 hours. The cuttings are set with the lower ends into the solution, the upper part with the eyes remain above the solution. The dishes with cuttings are covered with a plastic bag and placed at a heat source (oven, battery). Then the cuttings are planted in cups (Fig. 6) with a fertile mixture consisting of one part of humus, one part of peat, two parts of sod land and one part of coarse sand. This granular soil is now sold in all seed stores. Cups are easy to make from plastic 1.5 liter bottles... Cut off the top of the bottle, leaving the bottom about 20 cm high. Do not forget to make some drainage holes in the bottom of the cup. The top of the bottle will serve as a lid-cap for your cup and will provide a microclimate during the rooting period of the cuttings.

Rice. 6

The soil in the cup should be so moist that a hole with a diameter of approximately 20 mm can be formed in the center of the cup almost to the full depth. A "pillow" of coarse sand is poured into this hole, then the handle is installed and the hole is filled with sand to the top. The sand protects the cutting from harmful bacteria.

The main danger when rooting cuttings is the awakening of the buds and the development of green shoots before the roots appear; after all, the shoots are genetically embedded in the buds, and there are no roots, even signs of roots on the cuttings. But if the soil in a glass is heated from below, and the buds are kept cold, in a month or a little more, seedlings with a good root system and still budding buds are obtained. How to create such conditions? Best on the window. Indeed, at home, we usually grow seedlings on the windows.

We place the cups with cuttings on a metal or plastic pallet. We fix the pallet on the radiator under the window. We need to ensure the temperature difference: in the area of ​​root formation, i.e. in the lower part of the cup + 25 - +300 s and + 10- + 15 degrees. C in the kidney area. Heat will flow to the cups from the bottom of the battery.

Rice. 7

And in order to create a low temperature for the kidneys, open the inner window frame and isolate the cuttings from the influence of the warm air of the room with a polyethylene screen fixed in the window opening. If the cooling of the cuttings is not enough, periodically open the window and supply cold air from the street. If we periodically pour warm (+ 25-30 0 s) water into the pallet, we will provide feeding of the cuttings from below, through the drainage holes, and, in this case, watering from above is not necessary. As soon as white roots begin to be seen through the transparent walls of the cups, the cooling of the cuttings can be stopped.

From the moment the shoots develop from the buds, slightly open the plugs on the lids, and with the beginning of the active growth of shoots, begin to harden the young seedlings. In the absence of direct sunlight, remove the lids from the cups and gradually increase the time the seedlings stay outside the greenhouse conditions.
In the ground, in a permanent place, seedlings are planted in the spring, when the earth warms up to a temperature of + 100C. The advantage of growing seedlings in winter is that due to the early start of rooting, the growing period of a young grape bush increases by more than three months and the seedling has time to prepare well for winter.

Lesson 3 - Rooting lignified cuttings outdoors

For the grape school, a sunny, wind-protected land plot with fertile, structural, light soil is chosen. It can be light loamy, sandy loam or chernozem soil. The site for the school is being prepared in late summer or autumn. During preparation, for each square meter, the following is introduced: humus - 15-20 kg, superphosphate -100 g, potassium sulfate -50 - 70 g. The fertilizers applied are dug up.

Cuttings can be planted in a school in the fall, immediately after harvesting, or in the spring, when the ground warms up at a depth of 25-30 cm. Up to + 100 s. 3-eyed cuttings are used. Before planting, the cuttings are kept for 24 hours in a warm (+30 - +40 ° C) stimulant solution: a solution of heteroauxin (0.5 tablets per 5 liters of water) or flower honey (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Cuttings are planted in grooves with a slope of 450 to the north, to a depth that ensures the location of the upper eye at ground level. (Fig. 8).

Rice. eight.

The distance between the cuttings in a row is 10-12 cm, the distance between the rows is 30 cm. Before planting the cuttings, the grooves are abundantly watered with warm water and the cuttings must be installed in moist soil. After planting the cuttings, the grooves are covered with soil and again filled with warm water, and after it has been absorbed, the ends of the cuttings protruding above the ground are earthed with a roller 4-5 cm high. ...

After the buds open and the shoots appear above the ground, a cruciform hole is cut in the film above each cuttings for the exit and further growth of the shoot.

During the period of rooting and development of seedlings in the school, frequent watering is necessary. The highest soil moisture 90-85% of the PPV (extremely useful moisture capacity) should be until the end of June, slightly less than 85-75% in July, and gradually irrigation is reduced in August-September up to 65% soil moisture.

To accelerate the development and ripening of seedlings, foliar feeding is made. In June and early July - the first foliar feeding (30 g of ammonium nitrate, 200 g, superphosphate, 100 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water). Superphosphate is dissolved in 3 liters during the day. water with frequent stirring. In 2 liters of water, dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 100 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of boric acid. The superphosphate solution is drained from the sediment in a day, both solutions are mixed and the total volume is brought to 10 liters. adding water. When spraying, the solution should be applied to the lower and upper surfaces of the leaves. Spraying is carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening, before sunset. Under these conditions, the solution evaporates more slowly, remains on the leaves longer and is more fully absorbed by them. It is very useful after a day or two to spray again with water in order to dissolve the remnants of nutrients retained on the leaves and, thus, allow the plant to fully absorb them.

In the second half of July - early August, a second feeding should be carried out (200 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water). Preparation and application of the solution is similar to the first feeding.

Only two shoots should be left on each seedling, breaking off doubles and tees. If one shoot develops on a seedling, to create a second existing shoot, it is necessary to pinch at the growth point after the 5-6th leaf. After 10-15 days, stepchildren will begin to develop on the shoot. Of the formed stepchildren, one bottom is left, all the rest are pinched onto a stump.

At the end of August, chasing is carried out - removal of the upper part of the shoots to a normally developed top sheet... Chasing is carried out with the aim of stopping growth and accelerating the ripening of shoots.

Seedlings should not be left to overwinter. Saplings are excavated before the onset of the first autumn frosts. 3-4 days before digging, the school is watered to the full depth of the roots. The seedlings dug out of the school are tied in bunches, labels are hung on them indicating the variety and, dipping the roots into a clay mash, are placed in plastic bags and stored in the cellar at t = 0- + 60s.

At autumn planting cuttings in a school must be covered with a layer of 25-30 cm on top of the film to protect them from winter frosts.And in the spring, when the soil warms up to + 10 0c, remove the earthen shelter and allow the cuttings to develop according to the agrotechnics described above. Growing seedlings in the same place for more than two years is not recommended, because the soil gets tired of monoculture, there is a danger of poor development of seedlings and the appearance of diseases.
Growing seedlings from green cuttings.
V summer period propagation of grapes is carried out by green cuttings. This is also the only reliable breeding method for such varieties as "Violet Early", "Festivalny" and others, which are difficult to root by woody cuttings.

Two-eyed cuttings with a leaf at the second eye are cut before flowering from any green shoots, except for coppice ones, from the 3rd to the 7th knot. Cuttings are best rooted from shoots of fruit arrows and replacement knots. Cuttings are harvested early in the morning or in cloudy weather and immediately placed in water with a crystal of potassium permanganate or in a solution of a heteroauxin stimulator or flower honey. If the cuttings are kept in a stimulant solution in a cool place for 4-5 hours, then their rooting time is reduced.

Rooting of green cuttings can be carried out in glass jars with water, the level of which is about 2 cm (Fig. 9).

Rice. nine.

From above, the jar with cuttings is closed with a plastic bag with a hole in one of the corners. The jar is placed on a sunny window. After the formation of root rudiments, the cuttings are carefully removed from the jar so as not to damage the roots and are planted in pre-prepared nurseries.

The seedlings can be cups, which were described in the lesson "Winter rooting of woody cuttings" or wooden boxes 20 cm high, with cells 10 x 10 cm (Fig. 10).

Rice. ten.

The box is half covered with fertile soil, and clean river sand is poured on top with a layer of 4-5 cm. All moisten with warm water with potassium permanganate (weak solution). Planting depth of cuttings is 2.5-3.5 cm. When planting, try not to damage the roots. After installing the cutting, fill the planting hole with sand and water it again.

You can root green cuttings immediately in nurseries, without first rooting in water.
Before the development of shoots from the buds, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions for the seedlings, i.e. over the seedlings, you need to make a shelter from the film in the form of a tent, which can be removed with the development of shoots on the cuttings.

Rooted cuttings (seedlings) are left in nurseries until the end of the growing season. In the fall, seedlings are placed in heated greenhouses or on sunny windows in apartments where they can continue to develop. At the end of the growing season, they are transferred to the basement, where they are stored at t = 0 - + 60s until spring.
In the spring, after the ground warms up to + 100C, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

You can start growing much earlier. For this, seedlings from the basement are transferred at the end of January to heated greenhouses or to sunny windows in the apartment, thus interrupting the period of forced dormancy and starting a new growing season.
Reproduction by layering.
Layers are annual vines or green shoots laid in the soil for rooting.
Reproduction by layering ensures the rapid development and entry into fruiting of young bushes.

In a convenient direction from the bush, a groove is made about 15 cm deep. The vine selected on the bush, usually from top shoots, is placed in it, and is pinned to the bottom of the groove with wire arches.

After that, the groove with the vine is covered with earth and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of humic fertilizers. Along the entire length, the groove is mulched with a 4-5 cm layer of humus or other mulching material (pine needles, grain husks, sawdust, etc.). At the end of the layering, a pole is placed. How many eyes are there on the laid vine, so many seedlings should be obtained (Fig. 11).

Rice. 11.1 - layering, 2- groove covered with earth, 3 - layer of mulch

Cutting care - regular watering and tacking the shoots to vertical supports. During the summer, shoots will develop at each node of the cut and roots will form. In the fall, after the shoots have ripened, the cuttings are carefully dug up with the roots and tied in a bunch, they hang a label, the roots are dipped in a clay mash. The seedlings are stored in the basement in winter at t = 0 - + 60s in plastic bags.

Lesson 4 - Vaccinations

Vaccinations by budding on a winter-hardy stock

This is another way of propagating grapes. It is used for cultivation in the harsh Siberian conditions of non-resistant grape varieties, the roots of which cannot withstand significant freezing of the soil.

Grafting with a shield (budding) ensures the direct adjoining of the cultural scion to the wood of the winter-hardy rootstock, this increases the winter hardiness of the scion.

Cuttings of such varieties as Buyur, Alpha, Bashkir early, winter-hardy hybrids of the selection of R.F. Sharova - the riddle of Sharova, Biysk - 2, Amur grapes. Vaccination is carried out during the period of forced dormancy, in late January - early February.

Two to three days before the start of grafting, the stock cuttings are taken out of storage, washed in water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Check the condition of the cuttings after storage (see lesson two "Procurement and storage of cuttings") and reject low-quality ones. The rootstock cuttings are cut to a length equal to the planting depth (30-40 cm). The lower end is cut under a knot with a tendril or peduncle (full diaphragm knot). All eyes on the handle are removed with a sharp knife, without damaging the wood. Ready stock cuttings are immersed in a solution of heteroauxin or flower honey for 1-2 days for soaking at room temperature.

Graft cuttings are prepared on the day of vaccination, they are also taken out of basements or refrigerators, washed in water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate, the condition is checked, paying special attention to the safety of the eyes. Scion cuttings are immersed in water for soaking for 4-6 hours at room temperature (+ 12 - 150C).

Rice. 12.a - scion stalk, b - scion shield, c - scion stalk, d - grafted stalk

Vaccination is usually performed on the node, at the site of the removed ocellus, but inoculation can also be performed on internodes. When budding is carried out on the unit, the knife blade is set 1-1.5 cm below the peephole at an angle of 450 to the axis of the handle and an incision is made about 2 mm deep. Then the knife is rearranged 1-1.5 cm above the peephole and a flap with a small layer of wood is cut out with a sliding motion to the lower incision.

The cutout on the stock is made in the same way and, inserting the scion shield into the cutout, tie it with a narrow plastic tape, leaving the eye completely open. The cuts on the rootstock and on the scion flap should coincide with cambial layers and should be in close contact with the cut surfaces. This will ensure their better fusion. Contamination of the cut surfaces and touching them with your hands is not allowed. The vaccination operation must be carried out immediately, without delay, after the cut-out and the place of inoculation, and the cut-off of the vaccine shield.

The grafted cuttings are planted in nurseries (boxes or cups) and root in the same way as self-rooted seedlings (see lesson 2 "Winter rooting of woody cuttings").

Not all vaccinations usually succeed. To reject failed grafts before planting in nurseries, it is advisable to first stratify them in plastic bags (Fig. 13), in which the bases of the grafted cuttings are covered 5-8 cm with river sand, sawdust or moss.

Rice. 13.

The bags are suspended or installed in warm, bright rooms with a temperature of + 20-280C. The sand or sawdust in the bag is periodically moistened with water. A hole must be made in the corner of the bag to drain excess moisture. Through the transparent walls of the bag, you can observe the condition of the buds of the scion, the formation of callus at the site of inoculation, the development of roots, which, as they grow, will go out to the walls of the bag. Normally stratified, cuttings are considered with an engrafted scutellum and an eye that has begun the growing season and developed roots. It is these cuttings that are used for further cultivation.

In order not to damage very fragile and weak roots, when removing the cuttings from the bag, the substrate (sand, sawdust, etc.) is diluted with an excess amount of water. It is better to take out the cuttings with the whole bundle, after which it is possible to evaluate and select for planting each separately.

It is easier to stratify the grafted cuttings in glass jars of 2-3 cm water. The water in the jars should change in a day or two.

Grafted cuttings with root rudiments and established and blooming eyes are planted in cups or boxes. We know about landing in nurseries from previous lessons. With the onset of warm days, young seedlings are accustomed to natural conditions, hardened, taking them out into the open air in shaded places. When the threat of spring frosts disappears, young grafted seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

At first, the seedlings are covered from direct sunlight and regularly watered with warm water (+25 -300s). No operations with young seedlings should be done, except for fixing the shoots on a vertical support. This will ensure the best growth of green shoots. In mid-August, you can pinch the tops in order to accelerate the ripening of the shoots.
At the end of July, watering is stopped, this will accelerate the ripening of the shoots.

The strapping is removed from the vaccination after 3-4 months, when the active growth of the scion begins.
It is recommended to protect young seedlings from the first autumn frosts. To do this, a "hut" of covering material or polyethylene is built over the bush. Thus, you can extend the growing season and allow young shoots to ripen and better prepare for winter.

Before the winter shelter, the bush is pruned. Two shoots are left in the bush, which are shortened to 3-4 x eyes.

Major vaccination is a type of budding. "Majorca" differs in the shape of the scion element and seat for scion on a stock cuttings. (Fig. 14).

Rice. fourteen.

The graft is not cut in the form of a shield, but in the form of a trapezoid. The corresponding cut is made on the rootstock cuttings in the internodes, below the upper thickening, where the scion should fit tightly, with the maximum adherence of all sections. For a more reliable connection, the vaccination site is tied with a narrow polyethylene tape in the same way as when budding with a shield.

Major grafting is technologically somewhat more complicated, but due to the larger area of ​​grafting, more reliable connection of the scion with the stock, this grafting is of a higher quality and almost waste-free.
Replacement of the variety by grafting into an underground bole.
If for some reason you are not satisfied with the grown grape variety, do not rush to uproot it and replace it with a new seedling, do not remove the bushes completely eaten by mice. Indeed, in the place of the uprooted bush for several years it is not recommended to plant grapes again, a new bush in this place will develop very poorly due to the fatigue of the earth. This means that this place will fall out of your grape row.

You can replace the old bush with a new one, one variety for another by grafting into an underground bole. At the same time, the restoration of a new bush on an old one is possible within one or two seasons.

The spring grafting time in the bole is immediately after the grapes are freed from the shelter, i.e. in the second half of April.

Autumn vaccination time is the first half of October. It is very important that on the scion handle the lower node has a full diaphragm, i.e. there should be signs of a tendril on this node. Such a stalk, if not dried, will always take root. The preparation of bushes and cuttings for grafting in spring and autumn is no different.

Two to three days before grafting, the rootstock bush is dug out to a depth of 25-30 cm. On the day of grafting, the underground stem of the bush is cleared of earth and dead bark. After that, the above-ground part is cut off at the bush together with the head of the bush.

The cut is made at a depth of at least 15-20 cm so that the upper peephole of the 2-ocellar cuttings-scion is 4-6 cm below ground level after grafting. After the cut, the end of the stem is cleaned with a sharp knife.

The day before vaccination, 2-eye cuttings are soaked with full immersion in clean water or a stimulant solution: heteroauxin - 0.5 tablets per 5 liters. water, or sodium humate - 1 incomplete teaspoon per 5 liters. water. In the absence of stimulants, an aqueous solution of bee honey is used - 0.5 tablespoon per 5 liters. water.

After soaking, the cuttings are ventilated. Wet cuttings cannot be grafted, as well as overdried ones. Finally, the cutting is prepared at the time of inoculation. Depending on the thickness of the underground stem, one, two or more cuttings can be grafted onto it. At the time of grafting, a split is made to a depth of 3-4 cm along the diameter of the cut of the stem.Choosing a stalk, try it on in depth until it splits so that the upper peephole is 4-6 cm below ground level. it is 1 cm and no more than 2 cm in length (Fig. 15a). On longer sections, callus development is delayed. The preparatory cutting is immediately inserted into the split with the lower eye outward (Fig. 15 c). It is very important that the cambial layer of the cutting coincides with the cambial layer of the rootstock and that the outer lateral surface of the cutting in the area of ​​the wedge does not protrude beyond lateral surface trunk. If the diameter of the stem allows, then a second cutting can be inserted into the same split from the diametrically opposite side, i.e. in one split, make two inoculations (Fig. 15 c). With a thicker stem, two pairs of inoculations can be made (Fig. 15, c).

Rice. 15. Vaccination in an underground bole

Do not forget that the lower knot of the scion cutting should show signs of a tendril.

Remember that the lower eye of the scion cuttings should be facing outward. Under these conditions, the guarantee of successful vaccination is higher. Vaccination site, i.e. the cut on the trunk and splits must be isolated from the influence of the external environment. The cut should be closed with a plastic flap, and then tightly wrapped with twine. Within a year, the twine will collapse and will not interfere with the development of young shoots. The entire grafting area over the winding must be covered with a layer of garden varnish. After that, the graft is covered with moist moss and completely covered with loose moist earth and, to maintain moisture, mulch with sawdust, humus, needles needles or grain husks with a layer of 2-3 cm.

As young shoots grow, they must be tied to supports. The soil should always be moist, weed-free and mulched.

Lesson 5 - Site Selection and Vineyard Layout

The development of grapes begins with the selection of a place for it. Grapes are an unpretentious plant that can grow on any soil, with the exception of saline soils.

In Biysk there is an example of growing grapes even in a wetland with a high water level. When choosing a place for a vineyard, preference is given to the southern and southeastern slopes. Lowlands are not desirable, where cold air masses accumulate and there is a high probability of spring and autumn frosts. The northern slopes and areas facing the prevailing winds are less suitable for vineyards, since there is a likelihood of deep freezing of the soil, blowing off snow to the ground and, consequently, freezing out grape bushes.

Gardeners - amateurs are limited in choosing a place for grapes by their garden plots, sometimes very inconvenient. Therefore, the most rational choice would be to choose the sunniest, open, highest and driest area. Grapes grow well on the southern sides of blank fences and walls of buildings.
The direction of the rows in the vineyard is desirable from north to south, so that the sun illuminates the vines before noon on one side, and in the afternoon on the other.

The distance between bushes in a row should be 2.5 -3 meters, depending on the vigor of the vines. For very tall varieties, such as Rizamat, Amirkhai, Queen of Vineyards, Katyr-2, the distance between the bushes is at least 3 meters, and for Tukai, Pearls of Sabo, Riddles of Sharov, Thumbelina there can be 2.5 meters between bushes. These requirements are due to the fact that when forming the bushes on the trellis should not overlap each other.

There are many, sometimes contradictory, recommendations for row spacing. The row spacing of 2.5 - 3 meters is justified by the maximum illumination, good heating of the soil, excellent ventilation and is necessary for machine processing of the vineyard in large industrial vineyards, but such a row spacing is unforgivable for its wastefulness in small garden plots. When the rows of grapes are arranged from north to south, the row spacing can be 1.5-2 meters. Do not be afraid that the bushes will replace each other, which can reduce the rate of photosynthesis. It has been proven that photosynthesis reaches its highest intensity during the period of scattered light, at 10-11 am and 16-17 pm. At noon, with direct maximum illumination, the amount of photosynthesis is minimal. On a hot sunny day with low relative humidity, light shading and diffuse sunlight due to narrowed row spacings provide better conditions for photosynthesis than scorching direct sunlight.

Rice. 16.

So we accept the grape planting scheme:
rows from north to south or along the south side of blank fences and walls;
the distance between the rows is 1.5 meters, but should be increased to 2 meters in case of poor ventilation or when the rows are located from east to west;
the distance from fences and walls is at least 1 meter, for free root growth and ease of maintenance.
With the help of a cord and pegs, we outline a landing pattern in the selected area. On the southern and northern sides of the perimeter, drive in pegs every 1.5 (2.0) meters. Pulling the cords between the opposite pegs, we define our vine rows. Having retreated from the southern edge by 1.5 meters, we mark in each row the places of planting of the first bushes of grapes. The second bush in the row should be 2.5 meters from the first bush, or 3 meters if the bushes are vigorous. We adhere to the same distances for subsequent bushes in each row. From the north, each row should end 1.5 meters from the last bush. The total length of the row is equal to the sum of the distances between the bushes plus two half-meter segments on both sides of the row - this is the length of future trenches in which we will plant grape seedlings.
Trenching and preparation of planting holes.
Grapes are a culture of a temperate warm climate, characterized by increased sensitivity to frost and especially spring residual frosts in the initial growing season. In unusual for grapes climatic conditions measures are needed to protect it from the cold.

The deep planting of grapes in trenches is a serious protection of grapes from winter frosts.

Trenches are dug along the entire length of the intended vine row 25-30 centimeters deep and 35-40 cm wide. In this case, the cladding should be slightly (3-5 cm) recessed, and the upper edge of the cladding should be 3-5 cm above ground level. This is necessary so that the trench is not contaminated and during the spring thaw of snow, is not flooded with melt water.

Rice. 17. Planting holes and a trench in the vine row.
1 - fertile land with fertilizers, 2 - fertile land without fertilizers, 3 - lining the walls of the trench, 4 - greenhouse

To fix the cladding sheets, it is enough to drive spacers between them after 2-3 meters.
In the zones of northern viticulture, the time of planting grapes is considered to be the beginning-middle of May, when the ground at the planting depth warms up to + 10 0С.

For planting in advance, preferably in the fall, planting pits are prepared with a diameter of 60-80 cm and a depth of 1-1.2 meters or elongated pits 60 cm wide, 1 meter long and 1-1.2 meters deep. Preparation of planting holes, especially on heavy clay soils and poor sandy soils, necessarily deep, well-fertilized at the base of the planting hole contributes to an increase in the growth force of the bush and, which is especially important for Siberia, the development of deep calcaneal roots in the bush, which are less damaged by frost.

When digging a hole, the surface fertile soil is thrown out on one side of the hole and used in the future, and the lower geological infertile soil layer on the other side and is scattered evenly in the aisles or removed from the site. Bottom part pits are filled with two or three buckets of humus or compost, then two or three buckets of sand or rubble, if the soil on the site is clay. 200 g of superphosphate, 150 g of potassium sulphate or 400 grams of ash are added and all this is dug up (shoveled) with the soil at the bottom of the pit. After light compaction, two or three buckets of humus are poured again, 2/3 of the fertile soil from the upper layer, 200 grams of superphosphate, 150 g of potassium sulfate are added again, if necessary, two or three buckets of sand or crushed stone and everything is shoveled again. The addition of sand and gravel to non-heavy clay soils improves the aeration and drainability of the soil and is believed to improve the quality of the grapes. The remaining third of the fertile land is poured into a pit without humus and fertilizers and will serve as a planting layer for the seedling. Thus, with some compaction and after abundant watering, the pit should be filled to more than 3/4 of the total volume. If the pits are prepared in spring, they must be filled with warm water after backfilling with fertile soil. For this, the water is heated to 50-600 C. Before planting, it is necessary to create conditions for rapid heating of the soil in the planting pit. For this, a cover (greenhouse) made of film is arranged over the pit to create conditions for accumulating solar heat and heating the soil in the pit, i.e. to create a greenhouse effect in the pit.

On the side of the pit of black soil (fertile soil), sand and humus in accordance with 10: 2: 1, one or two buckets of mixture are additionally prepared, which will be sprinkled with the root system and the seedling itself when planting. It is advisable to warm this mixture in the sun under a film.

Lesson 6 - Planting grapes and caring for young seedlings.

It is best to plant grapes at a ground temperature in the pit above + 150 C. At a temperature of + 200 s, the vital processes of plants proceed 4 times more intensively than + 150 s, and at + 250 s, 8-10 times, the higher the temperature (but not more than + 350 s), the faster the seedlings take root and start growing therefore, a more powerful root system develops.

In the climatic conditions of Biysk, grapes are planted in the ground in the second half of May. The best time to plant vegetative (grown in winter) seedlings is in the evening or on a cloudy day. Sunny time of the day is dangerous for tender young shoots.

In the center of the planting pit, a hole is dug, the depth of which should ensure that the seedling is immersed 50-60 cm below ground level, and the upper shoot of the seedling should be 5-6 cm below the level of the trench so that the future bush does not have an aboveground stem. The seedling is carefully set in the hole so as not to damage the young roots and green shoots. Sapling shoots or vegetating buds must be oriented along the trench (see Fig. 17, lesson five). A vertically installed seedling is covered with a prepared earthen mixture to a developing green shoot, watered with warm water and the planting pit is again covered with a greenhouse.

Rice. 18. Planting and protecting a vegetative seedling

The planting of vegetative seedlings grown in peat or plastic cups is significantly improved. In these cases, planting can be carried out without destroying the earthy coma at the root system, i.e. without injury to young roots. Greenhouses are not removed from the planting holes until the threat of spring frosts disappears and until the seedlings are fully rooted. In hot weather, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouses by opening them from the ends.

Annual seedlings taken from winter storage are pretreated: the heel roots are shortened to 10-12 cm, the dew roots are cut off. If the seedling has more than two vines, only the two strongest are left and cut them into two eyes, and if the seedling has one vine, then cut it over the third eye (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19.

After that, the seedlings are soaked for a day in an aqueous solution of heteroaunsin (half a tablet for 5 liters of water) or sodium humate (half a teaspoon for 5 liters of water). Water temperature + 25-300C. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are dipped in a clay mash and immediately planted. As well as for vegetative seedlings, a hole is made in the center of the planting pit, the depth and diameter of which should ensure the placement of the seedling with the roots straightened without damage and so that the heel of the seedling is at a depth of 50-60 cm from the ground surface, and the cut vines do not protrude above ground level in a trench (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. Planting a one-year seedling

After installing the seedling, it is oriented with vines along the trench, half covered with a prepared mixture of earth, sand and humus, slightly pulled up so that the roots are evenly distributed obliquely from the heel down. After that, the soil is compacted, watered with warm water and finally backfilled to the top, leaving a funnel up to the bottom of the vine.

The task of the first year is to grow two strong shoots on a young seedling. A seedling can have one or two vegetative shoots, depending on what kind of stalk it was grown from. Let's consider both options.

The seedling has two vegetative shoots (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Landing (May)
minting (early September)

The existing two shoots should become the main vines of the young bush. In the process of summer development, replacement buds may wake up on the seedling and twin shoots and tees will begin to develop, stepchildren may appear on the main shoots. All these new shoots that arise during the growth of the main shoots must be pinched on a stump at the beginning of their development. The energy of the developing bush must be given to the two main shoots (vines) for their powerful development. In late August and early September, the main shoots, which should grow to 1-1.5 m, can be pinched off the growing top, this will ensure the best ripening of the vines.

In the first decade of October, after full maturity, the vines are cut into three or four buds, pinned horizontally above the ground level in a trench and covered with earth to the height of the trench (25:30 cm). The place of the covered bush must be marked with a peg or in some other way, so as not to damage it in the spring when released from the shelter.

If the seedling has one vegetative shoot (Fig. 22).

Rice. 22. Landing (May)
minting (early September)
pruning for the winter and shelter (early October)

When the shoot reaches 50-60 cm, it pinches on the growing top to cause the formation of stepchildren. It is necessary to leave the strongest stepson, conveniently located to give him the direction of growth in the opposite direction from the direction of the main shoot. The rest of the stepchildren and shoots from the replacement buds are pinched onto the stump. The abandoned stepson will very quickly catch up with the main shoot in development and by September both shoots will reach 1-1.5 meters in height, they can be pinched, and before hiding for Wintering, cut off by 3-4 eyes and cover with earth, as described in the first option.

Lesson 7 - Constructions of vertical single-plane and inclined two-plane trellises.

Vertical trellis.

Rice. 2.

Lesson 7 - Constructions of vertical single-plane and inclined two-plane trellises.
A feature of the grape plant is the absence of a certain strong skeleton-trunk with branches. Liana with several perennial arms, on which many long, flexible green shoots bearing bunches are formed and develop annually - this necessitates cultivation of grapes on rigid supports or special devices - trellis, the designs of which are selected depending on the formation of the bush during cultural cultivation.

The most common devices for the formation and securing of vines are trellises (see Fig. 1): a - vertical single-plane, c - inclined two-plane.

The height of the trellises is 2-2.2 m. Along the height of the racks, five to six rows of wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm are stretched on the trellis, the distance between which can be from 30 to 50 cm, but the lowest string should be ~ 20 cm from the ground level, fruit arrows are fixed horizontally on it (whips). I offer winegrowers constructions of vertical and two-plane inclined trellis.

Vertical trellis.

For trellis posts, metal pipes (1) with an outer diameter of 40-50 mm, 2.8-3.0 m long are used (see Fig. 2). A piece of angle 45x45 1 m long is welded to the upper end of the pipe.

In the height of the rack, diametrically through holes with a diameter of 5 mm are marked and drilled. For each strut, a piece of casing pipe (3) with a length of ~ 80 cm is procured with an inner diameter larger than the outer diameter of the strut. Casing pipes are driven into the ground along the trench at a distance of 10 cm from the wall of the trench every 2.5-3 meters from each other (see Fig. 3, c). The racks are installed in casing pipes and with the help of poles or wooden blocks (4) 2.5-3 meters long, with a cross section of 5x5, they are interconnected at the corners (2). You can hook poles or bars at the corners with wire twists, clamps or long screws, bolts passed through the holes in the corners from the bottom. The poles (bars) connecting the posts ensure the rigidity of the trellis structure, preventing the posts from changing their vertical position when the wire strings are stretched. Steel wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm is passed through the through holes in the racks in parallel rows, which is fixed and stretched on the extreme racks by twisting the ends of the wire into a ring (see Fig. 3) using pliers.
Such a trellis is very reliable in operation and can be easily dismantled if necessary.

Rice. 3.

Two-plane inclined trellis.

For multi-arm (more than 4 sleeves) fan formations of grapes, it is advisable to use two-plane inclined trellis. They differ from the single-plane tapestries described above in a more complex design. The stand is a welded frame in the shape of an inverted trapezoid. Frame elements: side posts (1) made of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm. 3 meters long; jumpers - top 150cm. (6) and bottom 60cm. (5), from pipes of any diameter, less than the diameter of the posts, or from a corner: guide corners (2) 45x45 100 cm long, for poles or wooden bars; casing pipes ~ 80 cm long with an inner diameter slightly larger than the outer diameter of the racks.

Installation of a two-plane trellis is somewhat more complicated than a one-plane trellis, but it is similar in the nature of the operations. Casing pipes are installed on both sides of the trench. The distance of the posts in a row is 2.5-3 meters.

The trellis system allows you to maximize the use of solar energy, is well ventilated and allows you to easily carry out agrotechnical measures in the vineyard during the entire growing season.

Rice. 4.

Lesson 8 - What is Polarity?

In natural conditions, starting its development in deep shade under the arch of dense trees, the grape plant, clinging to the irregularities of the bark, twigs and branches, rapidly directs its green shoots up to the tops of the trees, to the warmth and the sun. Striving upward, the grapes lose most of their shoots, sacrifice them in order to give all their strength, all their energy to one or two of the topmost young shoots. Everything that begins life below these shoots, due to a lack of nutrients, weakens, degrades and gradually dies off. And only the leaders remain to live, from year to year, growing with new shoots on their peaks. Only they, in the end, reach the arch of the crowns of trees, where, at last, they can widely and powerfully scatter numerous shoots under warm sunlight. Only here, under the sun, spreading over the crowns, grapes begin a full-fledged active life and abundant fruiting.

Thus, with the vertical arrangement of annual vines, selective development of green shoots is carried out - the strongest and most viable at the top, and everything below is weaker and weaker.

The historically developed ability of grapes to direct the bulk of nutrients along the vertical vine to the uppermost buds, to the uppermost young green shoots and growth points of these shoots is called longitudinal polarity.

This property of the vine cannot satisfy us in the artificial cultivation of grapes. But what if the annual vines (fruit arrows and fruit lashes) are not arranged vertically, as in natural conditions, when they strived for warmth and sun from the dusk, but horizontally, as the vines were located, reaching the tops of the trees? Yes, this is the right decision. Horizontal arrangement vines are a signal: "Nothing covers the sun! You can develop in full force, evenly distributing food on all green shoots, without depriving anyone!" Thus, in artificial viticulture, when forming a bush, it is possible to take into account and neutralize the property of longitudinal polarity.

Grapes have one more feature, which is called transverse polarity. Without going into scientific definitions, as in the previous section of the lesson, we will figure it out in a popular form and with this property of grapes. On the vine, the buds (eyes) are located sequentially, sometimes on one side, then on the other, and therefore the shoots develop from diametrically opposite sides in a strictly sequential order (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1.

During vegetation, nutrients are supplied through the vine, then to the right, then to the left shoot. If we make a cross section of a normally developing grape sleeve (Fig. 1, a), we will see that the core is located strictly in the center of the section. Imagine that during development on some site on one side of the vine, several shoots died or were broken in a row. As a result, the need to supply nutrients to this place disappeared, and therefore the development of this site was significantly weakened. The vine begins to develop inharmoniously. Over the years, there is a transverse deformation of the wood with displacement of the core (Fig. 1, c).

Due to the underdevelopment of one side, the nutrition of the shoots as a whole worsens. This place has become vitally weakened, fragile and fragile. With insignificant physical activity a fracture may occur here; at critical temperatures it is here that freezing and drying of the shoot will first occur.
Unfortunately, we often do not attach serious importance to this feature of the vine. And the transverse polarity must be taken into account when pruning and forming a grape bush and exclude possible negative consequences of this property. The essence of the correct formation of fruit links is that when pruning, it is imperative to leave polar opposite annual shoots on the sleeves - for the replacement knot - the lower outer shoot, for the fruit arrow - the upper inner shoot. (We will consider this rule in more detail in the lesson "Forming a grape bush".)

In the system of growing grapes and forming a grape bush, the exclusion of the harmful effect of transverse polarity must be given the same great importance, as well as the elimination of the influence of longitudinal polarity.

Lesson 9 - Pruning and shaping a grape bush in the second, third and fourth years.

Second year.

In the spring of the second year, in the second half of April or early May, if the spring is late and cold, the bushes must be opened, carefully cleaned from the ground so as not to damage the eyes. Remember, they were left in the fall when pruning four on each shoot. After airing and drying, the bushes must be covered with a film cover (this was discussed in the sixth lesson). The earlier the bush starts active life, the more chances it is to form the basis of the bush of four strong shoots - this is the main task of the second year.

On two last year's vines, if our young seedling endured the winter well and all the eyes remained alive, eight green shoots begin to develop, i.e. four each. At the very beginning of the development of young shoots, their number must be halved. On each last year's vine, only two young shoots are left. To eliminate the negative effect of transverse polarity, shoots are left on each last year's vine, developing from diametrically opposite buds (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1.

In our example (Fig. 1) 1 and 2 buds are left on the left vine, and 2 and 3 on the right; an acceptable option is 1 and 4 kidneys, but 1 and 3 are not allowed; 2 and 4 kidneys.

In the process of development of the main shoots, all shoots developing from the replacement buds are removed, the stepsons are pinched over the second or third leaf, all possible inflorescences are removed.

In the fall of the second year, only the unripe part of the bush is cut off.

Third year.

In the spring of the third year, each of the shoots of the young bush is again cut into 2 healthy eyes. In total, eight shoots need to be grown in the third year. When pruning, it is again necessary to exclude the negative influence of the transverse polarity and the lower peephole on each shoot must necessarily look outward from the bush, and the upper one inside the bush (Fig. 2, spring of the 3rd year).

Rice. 2.

Care for the bush during the summer is carried out most thoroughly with the pinching of the stepsons, a fragment of shoots from the replacement buds, from dormant buds on the sleeves and an underground trunk. It is possible to leave one inflorescence on one or two of the strongest shoots and give them the opportunity to ripen (Fig. 2).

In the fall of the third year, the unripe part of the vine is cut off from all eight shoots.

Fourth year.

In the spring of the fourth year, the final fan forming of the bush is carried out as shown in (Fig. 3). The upper vines on the arms (fruiting vines) are cut into 5-8-12 eyes. The number of eyes left is determined by the permissible eye load for each grape variety and bush individually. When determining the load with the eyes, the state of the bush is taken into account - the number of strong young vines (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3.

The lower vines are cut into two healthy eyes, thus forming four replacement knots. Do not forget that the first (lower) peephole on the replacement knots must necessarily look outside the bush, and the second (upper) inside. This ensures a strict order of annual pruning of the bush and eliminates the influence of transverse polarity.

The final shaping of the bush is best done not in the spring of the fourth year, but in the fall of the third year. Autumn pruning is less painful during the spring "cry" of grapes. But during autumn pruning on replacement knots, it is necessary to leave an additional one or two spare eyes, in case of their possible damage during shelter for the winter, wintering or when opening after wintering.

So, in the fourth year, a 4-arm fan-shaped grape bush with four fruit links, consisting of a fruit vine (arrows) and a replacement knot, was formed. Now, annually in the fall, we will remove the vines that have bore fruit to the replacement knots, and from the vines on the replacement knots we will form new arrows and new replacement knots.

If you wish, you can make the grape bush multi-armed, adding in the described way one new sleeve every year. To do this, you can use strong shoots from dormant buds (tops) or overgrowth shoots from an underground trunk, or additional replacement knots formed from fertile vines.

Lesson 10 - Forming reinforced bushes for two-plane trellis.

In the ninth lesson, we determined the order of formation of a 4-arm fan-shaped bush - last year's fruit arrow, along with all fertile vines, is cut completely to last year's replacement knot, on the replacement knot, the lower outer shoot is trimmed to a new replacement knot (3-4 eyes), and the next internal shoot trimmed to a new fruit arrow (5-12 eyes). The combination of the fruit arrow and the replacement knot on the sleeve is the fruit link (Fig. 1).

On a well-developed bush over 6 years old, with a high yield and good ripening, it is possible to strengthen the fruit link, leaving not one, but two fruit arrows in it. Thus, an increase in yield is provided (an increase in the load on the bush) (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Fruit links

The load on the bush should be increased gradually. It is impossible to form reinforced fruit links at the same time on all arms in one year. And you need to know that the formation of even one reinforced link per year will not provide an infinite increase in yield.

On 9-10 year old bushes, the load can be increased by the formation of additional arms, and then again by strengthening the fruit links on the new arms.

New sleeves are formed from strong undergrowth shoots of an underground stem or from conveniently located top shoots developing from dormant buds on perennial wood at the head of the bush. The formation of new arms, as well as reinforced fruit links, is carried out gradually, one per year. Therefore, if there are several shoots and tops in the bush, it is necessary to choose the strongest and most conveniently located one of them to form an additional sleeve. All other shoots must be removed (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. A bush with shoots and tops

It is necessary to form a sleeve from a coppice shoot in one season. Accelerated formation of the sleeve is provided by pinching (chasing) in June of the selected green coppice shoot with 9-10 leaves, leaving 5-6 leaves. After eight to nine days, stepchildren will develop on the embossed shoot, of which the two upper ones must be left, and the lower one should preferably be external (future replacement knot). All other unnecessary stepchildren at the beginning of their development are carefully plucked out on the stumps. Thus, the coppice shoot turns into a young sleeve with two shoots, one of which is the lower one, next spring it will be cut into a replacement knot with 2 buds, and the upper one - into a fruit arrow with 5 or more buds. A sleeve with a fruit link formed by the accelerated method is capable of bearing fruit the next year.

Young sleeves are also formed to replace old or damaged sleeves. The development, maturation and aging of sleeves is a continuous and inevitable process. After 12-15 years, fruiting on the old sleeve gradually decreases. A sign of sleeve failure is, first of all, the absence of normal growth (short and weak green shoots on fruit arrows). Green shoots are considered to be at least 75 cm long and at least 7 mm thick.

The need to replace old sleeves arises when the sleeves are excessively lengthened as a result of the obligatory increment in the process of the annual formation of fruit links at the ends of the sleeves. And although the increase in wood mass due to the development of sleeves is a positive factor, since in direct dependence on this, the supply of nutrients increases, and, consequently, the yield, nevertheless, it becomes necessary to cut an unnecessarily long sleeve and replace it with a new one. Thus, the rejuvenation of the grape bushes is carried out.

Lesson 11 - No shoots on replacement knots? No problem!

In the practice of viticulture, deviations from the standard formation of fruit links are quite common. On the replacement knots, the necessary shoots do not always develop, with which they replace the fertile arrow. Sometimes, through negligence, young shoots on replacement knots may be broken off, may freeze, and other unforeseen cases of loss of shoots or their poor development on replacement knots may occur. Of course, this is annoying, but still we must remember that our main task is to get a harvest, and not adhere to some strict rules for the formation of a grape bush. Therefore, if there is nothing to replace the fruiting arrow with, it is necessary to take well-developed strong vines on this arrow for fruiting.

Consider various options autumn pruning with loss or underdevelopment of shoots on replacement knots. For simplicity and clarity, we will consider all the options on one arm of a grape bush.

1. On the replacement knot, the upper shoot is underdeveloped or absent altogether. In this case, the old replacement knot is cut off with a new one, shortening the lower outer shoot by 3-4 buds, and on the fertile arrow, one or two first ones from the sleeve of one-year matured shoots are set aside on the fruit arrows. The rest of the fruiting vine, along with the growth, is cut off. In this way, a normal or enhanced new fruit link is obtained. (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1.

2. If there is not a single shoot on the replacement knot, then such a knot is cut off completely, and on the last year's fruiting arrow, the first outer shoot is cut into a replacement knot (3-4 buds), and the next inner one is cut off to the fruit arrow. The rest of the old vine is pruned. If the first shoot turns out to be not external, but internal, then it makes sense to leave it for fruiting with the next shoot, thus forming a reinforced fruit link without a replacement knot, and the knot can be formed in the next season (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2.

3. Maybe so, there are no shoots on the replacement knot and there are no shoots at the beginning of the arrow, but there are strong shoots at the end of the arrow. This option is possible if the grape bush is damaged by mice during overwintering. In this case, the strongest one or two terminal shoots are left for fruiting. But such a forcedly elongated sleeve is not desirable for the next shaping. Instead, it is necessary to prepare a new young sleeve (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3.

4. If there are no shoots on the replacement knot, and on the fertile arrow, the first (initial) shoots have developed weakly, but the final shoots are strong (this option is possible with a vertical dry garter of the fruit arrow in spring, i.e., the negative influence of the longitudinal polarity was not taken into account, then, leaving one or two terminal strong shoots and cutting them off into fruit arrows, the remaining shoots along the entire length of the fruiting arrow are cut into 2-3 buds). Thus, for fruiting in the next season, a temporary cordon is created (formation of grapes on long sleeves with short fruit arrows) (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4.

Replacement knots, on which shoots have not formed, are cut out.
In the spring, last year's arrow, which now serves as a sleeve of a temporary cordon, is tied to the trellis horizontally with a sharp bend at a right angle at the first short-cut vine, so that strong shoots grow at the bend for replacement.

5. It should be noted that in this way it is possible to form vines for fruiting without replacement knots (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5.

To do this, in the vine, which is chosen for fruiting, with a dry spring garter, it is enough to make a strong bend in the area of ​​the first eyelet in order to get a strong shoot in this place, which will be the new vine (arrow) of fruiting for the next year.

Lesson 12 - Green operations (a fragment of green shoots of grapes, pinching the tops of fruiting shoots)

From the beginning of the growing season, many green shoots develop from the main, replacing and dormant buds on a grape bush, an excessive number of which can adversely affect the development of the bush, the quantity and quality of the crop. Therefore, the so-called green operations on the grape bush are of great importance for the normal development of grapes.

Green operations include: debris - removal of whole shoots; pinching and chasing - removal of the upper part of the shoots; pinching - partial or complete removal of side shoots (stepsons); thinning of leaves; rationing of inflorescences.

Green operations help to establish the optimal ratio between the aerial part and the root system of the plant to maintain a balance between the vigor of the bushes and their ability to bear fruit.

A fragment of green shoots.

Removing some of the shoots in the spring, when development is just beginning, helps to enhance the growth of shoots remaining on the bush and does not have a depressing effect on the plant. Therefore, the debris should be carried out in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season.

Shoots developing from one or another bud have different meanings and are not used in the same way in viticulture. The main role is played by the central shoots developing from the main buds on an annual vine and bearing inflorescences. The so-called shoots - twins and tees, developing from replacement buds, are used only when the bush, for some reason, has insufficient leaf surface, i.e. part of the main fruitful shoots died (the results of unfavorable wintering, damage to shoots by spring frosts, damage to part of the eyes by mice). In such cases, they say that the bush is underutilized. Replenishment of the green mass of the bush is made by twin shoots.

With the normal development of fruitful shoots, all twins and tees break out at an early stage of development.

Shoots grown from dormant buds on the aboveground and underground stem - tops and shoots, are used in very limited quantities to rejuvenate the bush, i.e. to replace old and create new additional sleeves. For this, the strongest and most conveniently located top or coppice shoot is selected, the rest are broken out or cut out from the trunk under the ground. There can be a lot of such shoots (sometimes dozens) and they appear throughout the summer, they are able to strongly thicken the bush and dramatically weaken the development of the main shoots, therefore, shoots and tops must be removed several times during the summer.

On young bushes, a debris is also necessary, but its purpose is somewhat different. The purpose of this operation is to select and grow the strongest shoots for the formation of arms and to ensure their growth by removing the weak and unsuitable for formation. On young bushes, it is imperative to remove all twin shoots, since they cannot be used to form bushes.

Shoot debris is especially important on grafted vines, as the shoots, in addition to using the nutrients needed for the scion, carry the poor quality maternal flavor of the rootstock. If you remove the shoots on the rootstocks carefully and repeatedly, then within a few years you can get rid of them altogether.

Pinching the tops of fruiting shoots.

Pinching shoots is one of the techniques that affects the quality of berries and bunches, as well as the yield.
Nutrients entering young shoots, due to the manifestation of longitudinal polarity, are primarily directed to growth points. If most of the plastic substances are consumed for the continuous growth of the apex, starvation of the inflorescences occurs. Pinching of shoots is done to redistribute food from the point of growth to the inflorescence (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Pinching of a vine shoot

Pinching consists in removing the tip of the growing shoot by 3-5 cm. Pinching is performed only on fruitful shoots 2-3 days before flowering. After pinching, shoot growth is delayed for 10-15 days and most of the nutrients will go to the inflorescences, ensuring their better development: the conditions for pollination of flowers are improved, their shedding decreases and, as a result, more berries are tied, the yield increases.

Pinching is a very effective technique for varieties that are characterized by strong shedding of ovaries, peas, uneven development of berries ("Irinka", "Tukai", "Strashensky"). Pinching is also recommended for varieties with a functionally female type of flower. A temporary increase in the flow of nutrients to the inflorescences contributes to better fertilization of the flowers.

By pinching, they cause the formation of stepchildren on coppice or spinning shoots, left for the accelerated formation of new arms.

Lesson 13 - Green operations (chasing, pinching, thinning leaves)

Embossing is the removal of the tops of all shoots with all young underdeveloped leaves in order to ensure better nutrition of the bunches and the maturation of the shoots. Accelerating the ripening of shoots, chasing contributes to the accumulation of additional plastic substances in them, increases the resistance of the vines to unfavorable wintering conditions. Coining is carried out when the active growth of shoots is suspended. With timely chasing, only a small part of the green mass is removed, which does not impair photosynthesis, but, on the contrary, enhances it due to improved illumination. Chasing stops the growth of shoots, which leads to the redistribution of nutrients produced by the leaves, they enter the berries in greater quantities. As a result, the berries ripen faster, increase in size, accumulate more sugar, which leads to an increase in yield. Chasing is necessary to improve the ventilation of the bushes.

Should not be minted in dry years. The time of the minting is determined by the state of the vine: the beginning of maturation of the lower internodes and a slowdown in the growth of shoots, which usually happens at the beginning of August. An external sign of growth retardation is the straightening of the tops of the shoots, during active growth they are curved.

When minting, at least 8-12 leaves are left above the upper bunch. Simultaneously with the minting, the newly appeared stepchildren are shortened. On young and weakly growing bushes with vines no more than 1.5 m long, minting is not done.

Stealing.

This is an operation to remove or pinch off second-order shoots developing on green shoots from the axillary buds. In large numbers, stepchildren appear on vigorous and underused bushes. If the bush is normally loaded with crops and shoots, stepchildren usually develop poorly on it and no operations need to be carried out with them. In such cases, it is enough to pinch the stepchildren to the bunches (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Pinching stepsons

The purpose of pinching is to create conditions for better lighting and ventilation in the area where the bunch is developing. The removal of stepsons is carried out in cases where there is an increased growth of stepsons and, as a result, a strong thickening of the bush. It is impossible to completely remove the stepsons, as this may damage the wintering eyes. It is believed that stepchildren have a positive effect on the development of eyes and the formation of inflorescences in them. Therefore, the stepsons pinch over the second or third sheet.

If, due to spring return frosts, the main shoots were damaged, then pinching should not be carried out. New shoots will form from strong stepsons, which will ensure the development of the bush and even the harvest, however, smaller in size and with a significant delay.

The kidneys of pinched stepchildren are capable of producing second-order stepchildren, which can be removed completely.

Thinning.

Thinning of leaves - removal of leaves shading the bunches is performed to accelerate ripening, improve the color of the berries, to improve ventilation and prevent fungal diseases on the berries. Leaves are torn off gradually so that the berries do not get sunburn... The oldest leaves with reduced assimilation activity, located above and below the bunches, are removed. The time to remove the leaves is 15-20 days before the berries are fully ripe.

Thinning of inflorescences is carried out in some grape varieties with very long, loose clusters. For example, "Strashensky" has long flowering due to very long clusters. The upper part of the bunch already has an ovary, while the lower part is still in bloom. Due to the duration of flowering, such varieties can fall during the flowering period in various weather conditions, the inflorescences are not pollinated evenly and not completely, there is a significant shedding of inflorescences, peas, the clusters become sparse, the ripening of such clusters is greatly delayed. By removing the lower part of the inflorescence during flowering, an improvement in the nutrition of the remaining part of the inflorescence is stimulated. The bunches become more compact, have a marketable appearance, the berries in the bunches are leveled in size and ripen together.

It is advisable to remove inflorescences on stepchildren, since their harvest, as a rule, does not have time to ripen, and for a new development these clusters consume a significant amount of nutrients.

Often, for the rationing of the harvest, the operation of thinning the bunches is used, which is more effective than thinning the inflorescences, since it is carried out after flowering, when it is clear how the fruits (berries) have set. Bunches with defects are removed - poorly developed, with mechanical damage, podoprevanie or burns, etc.

Lesson 14 - Determine the load of the bush.

Grapes have the ability to plant many more buds and buds than they can supply with food. Therefore, in order not to reduce the yield, not to worsen the quality of the berries, not to weaken the development of the bush, the load of the bush is normalized with eyes (shoots) and inflorescences.

Winegrowers - amateurs often overload the bushes, not paying attention to the huge number of new shoots of the annual growth of the bush, and a year later they are perplexed: "Why did the harvest fall sharply, why are the shoots developing poorly and not ripening?"

In the viticulture literature and in reference data on grape varieties, recommendations are given for pruning and eye loading of bushes. For example, "Victoria" - a hybrid form obtained as a result of complex backcrossing of frost-resistant European-Amur hybrids with the resistance donor SV-12-304, is prone to crop overload, therefore, it is necessary to normalize the load of bushes with inflorescences and bunches. The load of adult bushes is 25-30 eyes per bush when pruning fruit vines for 5-8 eyes. The eyes at the base of the shoots are highly fertile, therefore, you can cut the vines into 2-3 eyes. "(Extract from the description of the variety.) Of course, when forming a bush, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations for pruning fruit vines and the number of eyes on them. But after all, each bush is individual , one is more powerful, the other is weaker, therefore, in different cases there cannot be a single recommendation even for the same variety.

A convenient system of rationing and pruning of grape bushes was proposed by scientists from VNIIViV "Magarach".

First of all, the strength of the bush is determined - the number of vigorous shoots on this bush. A vigorous shoot is considered to be more than 1.2 m long and more than 8 mm in diameter at the base. Fatty shoots with a diameter of more than 12 mm are counted as two.

Note. There are many grape varieties that have an optimal vine diameter of less than 8 mm, therefore, for such varieties, strong vines are determined by their individual criteria.

The load of a grape bush is determined by the formula "Magarach".

Where, M is the optimal number of eyes in the bush,
N - the number of vigorous shoots,
С = 2.5 - the coefficient at which the yield is slightly lower than the maximum, but the quality of the bunches and berries and the best ripening of the vines are ensured.

Let's consider the application of the formula "Magarach" by an example. There are 20 strong vines on the bush.
M = 2.5 x 20 = 50 eyes.
This means that during autumn pruning, 50 eyes must be left on the bush.

With a four-arm fan-shaped formation, our bush consists of four fruit links. For most varieties, the recommended length for pruning vines for fruiting is 6-8 eyes, and on replacement knots 3-4 eyes (of which only two will be selected in the spring). Thus, the fruit link should have 9-12 eyes. We distribute the estimated number of eyes - 50 as follows:
For four knots of replacement, 4 eyes each - 16 eyes;
For four fruit arrows, 8 eyes each - 32 eyes, since we have the opportunity to place two more eyes on the bush, we can redistribute the eyes on four fruit arrows, leaving seven eyes on them, and form the fifth fruit arrow from the remaining 6 eyes, thus creating a reinforced fruit link.
The pictures offer options for pruning bushes with a load of 50 eyes.

In fig. 1 - the bush is formed with three ordinary fruit links, 7 eyes on a fruit arrow and 4 eyes on a replacement knot and one reinforced link with 6 and 7 fruit arrows and a replacement knot with 4 eyes.

In fig. 2 - the bush is formed with four normal fruit-bearing links and one coppice shoot for a new sleeve (creating a reinforced bush).

The formula "Magarach" takes into account up to 45% of the loss of eyes during winter storage and breakage of green shoots when raising and tying vines on trellises. Therefore, if the actual losses on your bush in the spring are within the foreseen limits, you need to carry out additional normalization. If on the bush in the spring all the eyes were preserved and began to develop, then it is necessary to ration the number of green shoots and inflorescences. First of all, two shoots are left on the replacement knots in accordance with the requirement - the first (lower) shoot should look outside the bush, and the second - inward. Two extra shoots on each replacement knot break out. The upper inflorescences on the fruiting shoots and all inflorescences on the shoots of the replacement knots are removed; underdeveloped inflorescences and underdeveloped shoots are removed; barren shoots are removed in order to thin out the fruit arrows (first of all, sterile shoots at the ends of the fruit arrows are removed).

Rationing according to the "Magarach" system in combination with the implementation of green operations helps to strengthen the bush and increase yields. As the bush grows stronger and as you gain experience, you can increase the load on the bush by increasing the C factor to 3 or even 3.5. Thus, it is possible to achieve high yields, excellent quality of bunches and own development of the grape bush.

Lesson 15 - How to properly fertilize and irrigate the vineyard.

Fertilization is a very important and complex operation in providing the grape plant with nutrients.
The main nutritional organs of the plant are leaves and roots. The main function of the leaf apparatus is the assimilation of carbon from the air, photosynthesis; the root system provides the plant with water and assimilates nutrients from the soil. The roots absorb mineral elements necessary for nutrition from the soil: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, sulfur; trace elements: boron, manganese, zinc, molybdenum, copper, chlorine and some organic substances, such as salts of humic acids. In the root system, absorbed inorganic compounds are converted into organic ones - amino acids, proteins, sugars, fats. When feeding on micro - and macroelements, the vital processes of the plant are activated: the synthesis of chlorophyll ensures the growth of the assimilation surfaces of various plant organs (leaves, shoots, roots, fruits). Mineral nutrition conditions largely depend on the content of these nutrients in the soil.

A grape plant, growing in one place for many years, absorbs a large amount of these elements from the soil for its development, for the construction of plant tissues, for the formation of various organs: shoots, roots, leaves, buds, fruits.

During the growing season, the plant absorbs nutrients with different intensities and selectively according to individual phases of development: the intensity of nutrient absorption increases from the beginning of flowering to the ripening of the crop. The last stages of the growing season are characterized by an increase in potassium intake.

When fertilizing vineyards, it is necessary to take into account the correct combination of nutrients, depending on the need for them during a certain growing season.

Universal recommendations and recipes for top dressing for any vineyard with a variety of types and varieties of soils, their chemical content, water regime; with a variety of varieties and ages of grape bushes, of course, it cannot be. One thing is clear: how much nutrients the plant has taken from the environment, so much of them must be replenished. So how many fertilizers, mineral, organic, microelements should be applied when feeding? What is the optimal ratio between them?

Vinogradar A.L. Dmitriev in the book "Ideal Vineyard" with serious justification recommends to take into account the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a grape plant (N: K = 3: 1: 2), determined by scientists of the N. V.E. Tairova. The author, having processed the results of research in the field of vineyard fertilizers, came to the conclusion that to obtain 1 kg of harvest, an adult grape bush needs 6 g of nitrogen, 2 g of phosphorus and 4 g of potassium (according to the active ingredient).
Note. Active substance is the amount of pure substance in the fertilizer, expressed in%.

Knowing the yield of a grape bush, it is easy to determine how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is removed from the soil, i.e. how much fertilizer should be applied to the soil. With an average annual yield of 10 kg, a grape bush needs 60 g of nitrogen, 20 g of phosphorus and 40 g of potassium, i.e .:

Ammonium nitrate (N-34%) - 60: 0.34 = 176.5g ~ 180g;
- superphosphate (P2O5-20%) - 20: 0.2 = 100g;
- potassium sulfate (K2O-50%) - 40: 0.5 = 80g.

But it is impossible to limit oneself only to mineral dressings. The soil requires not only the restoration of the chemical content, but also the improvement of the structure and microflora, and this requires organic fertilizers: humus, compost, peat, bird droppings, etc. Under the influence of organic matter, sandy soils become more bound and moisture-consuming, while clay soils, on the contrary, reduce their density and become more structural. Organic fertilizers are complete fertilizers, they contain all the nutrients that plants need. Manure of various farm animals is used as the main organic fertilizer. Manure is introduced under the grapes only in a rotted state, in the form of humus. The content of nutrients in humus depends on the conditions of its storage. If during the storage period it was not washed out by rains and melt water, then nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium and other nutrients were preserved in it. It is enough to add 6-8 kg of humus under the bush to restore the nutrient medium depleted during the season. Usually humus is introduced in autumn with deep embedding (digging) into the soil.

In small garden plots and vineyards, compost can be the main type of organic fertilizer - the most effective, cheapest and most accessible view complete fertilization. For its preparation, all types of waste of plant and animal origin are used: food waste, waste of fruits and vegetables, manure and droppings of domestic animals and birds, feces, mown grass and weeds, vegetable tops, sawdust and chopped branches of cut trees and shrubs, sawdust and shavings, green shoots, leaves, wood ash, any organic household waste.

To lay the compost, you need to prepare a platform with three interconnected walls approximately 1 m high.You can determine the area of ​​the compost box according to your capabilities and needs, but most likely your compost box will be at least 1 x 1 m.Of course, the ideal option is a stationary structure with concrete floor, with reliable durable walls, with two compartments (Fig. 1).

But there may be a composting chamber and a temporary structure with walls made of wooden panels or from old slate and other materials. In this case, it is necessary to tamp the area under the compost bin and cover it with a thick layer (20-30 cm) of sawdust or straw, so that in the future it will be easier to shovel the compost. You can put and pour any organic matter into the compost heap, except for bones and animal fat, and you should also not fill the tops of diseased plants (late blight of tomatoes, fungal diseases of grapes) there, they must be removed from the garden, buried or burned. The compost heap can be filled in any sequence with periodic sprinkling of soil, sawdust, straw and watering with water, slurry, solutions of feces or bird droppings. It is advisable that the heap be covered with a film, this provides a greenhouse effect and a quick overheating of the compost and protects it from being washed out by rains and volatilization of some nutrients. If you shove a pile at least once during the season, i.e. transfer to the adjacent compartment, then by the fall the compost will be ready. Ripe compost is a dark, homogeneous, crumbly substrate without an unpleasant odor. Like manure, it has all the nutrients it needs. It is introduced in the same way as humus in the fall, 6-8 kg for each bush with digging.

Poultry manure is a very valuable organic fertilizer. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in an easily assimilable form. The nutrients from poultry droppings are very quickly absorbed by plants. Bird droppings are used for root dressing after dry garter and 5-7 days before flowering, instead of mineral dressings.

For fermentation, bird droppings are diluted 4 times with water. Fermentation is carried out for one to one and a half weeks. Before applying to grape bushes, the manure infusion is diluted 10 times. For one feeding of the bush, 0.5 liters of diluted infusion is enough. Feeding with bird droppings should be combined with watering the vineyard.

In recent years, serious attention has been paid to microbiological methods of soil restoration. More than ten years ago, EM was created in Japan - a technology that has received recognition in many countries of the world and is beginning to be mastered in Russia. EM (effective microorganisms) - a drug created by special technology, in which a large number of anabiotic (beneficial) microorganisms that live in the soil are grown: bacteria of photosynthesis, lactic acid, yeast, etc. Interacting in the soil, they produce enzymes and physiologically active substances that have a positive effect on the growth and development of plants.

Properties of this drug:
accelerates plant growth;
accelerates the ripening of fruits;
converts organic waste into effective compost fertilizer;
restores the natural fertility of the soil;
dramatically reduces the content of toxic elements;
improves taste qualities and the presentation of the products grown;
increases the shelf life of the crop in its natural form.
The EM preparation is produced in Russia by the LLC "EM - TECHNOLOGY" enterprise in Ulan-Ude under the brand name "Baikal EM - 1" in the form of 30 ml bottles and is available in retail trade. How the drug is used is described in detail in the instructions attached to each package.

When and how should you fertilize?

The timing of fertilization is of great importance and, as a rule, it is necessary to apply several elements of fertilization at once. The combined application of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers is much more effective than their separate application to the soil. It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers together with phosphorus fertilizers in the spring and in the first half of summer; potassium is well absorbed in the second half of summer. Organic fertilizers should be applied in the fall, while reducing the amount of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring of next year by half. To ensure the effectiveness of fertilizing, fertilizers must be applied to a depth of 40-60 cm, in the area of ​​the main roots within a radius of ~ 1 m. The most convenient way of applying fertilizers in liquid form is through drainage pits (Fig. 2) for irrigation.

As drainage pipes (1), you can use asbestos-cement or plastic pipes with a diameter of 80-100 mm, a length of 50-60 cm.Drainage pits (2) ~ 50x50 cm in size are dug to a depth of 70-80 cm, covered with gravel or gravel ~ 30 cm ... A plastic film is spread over the gravel, on which a drainage pipe is installed in the center of the pit. The upper end of the pipe should rise approximately 10 cm above ground level. Thus, the prepared drainage pit is filled with soil selected from it to ground level. It is possible to use such drainage pits for many years for fertilizing and for simultaneous deep watering of grape bushes.

Foliar dressing (spraying on leaves).

Nutrition can enter the plant not only through the roots, but also through the leaves. When foliar feeding, nutrients are absorbed by plants very efficiently, quickly and completely. Foliar dressing is combined with spraying against mildew and oidium. Foliar dressing is carried out on a cloudy day or in the evening, after sunset.

Foliar dressing recipes.
First foliar feeding. Insist 200 g of superphosphate for a day in 3 liters of water in a glass container. On the day of foliar feeding, dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of ammonium sulfate, 100 g of potassium sulfate, 10 g of boric acid and 100 g of copper sulfate in a separate bowl. Drain the superphosphate solution from the sediment, mixing with a solution of the remaining components. Simultaneously prepare a solution of 100 g of lime in a separate bowl. Pour milk of lime into the mixture of solutions of all components until neutral, which can be determined with the help of litmus paper or a new iron nail (if the acidic nail solution becomes rusty). Then the prepared mixture of solutions is diluted to 10 liters.
The solution for the second foliar feeding is prepared in the same way as the first, only boric acid and Bordeaux mixture are excluded from it. The solution is brought to a neutral reaction by adding baking soda. The second foliar feeding can be carried out with an aqueous infusion of mullein. One part of the mullein is diluted in 10 parts of water and infused for three days, after which it is filtered and used for spraying. Such a solution is not only a foliar feeding, but also a biological means of combating powdery mildew.
With the third foliar feeding, the nitrogen-containing component is also excluded from the solution.
Recipe for the fourth foliar feeding. 200 g of superphosphate is infused during the day in 3 liters of water. 450-500 g of wood ash is also infused in 3 liters of water during the day. The solutions drained from the sediment are mixed, brought to a neutral reaction with baking soda and diluted with water to 10 liters.
Foliar feeding with microelements.

Foliar dressing with a weak solution of trace elements is carried out once a season, the next day after the first foliar dressing.

To prepare the solution, any composition of trace elements is used in accordance with the instructions attached to the package.

For the convenience of carrying out all types of feeding A.L. Dmitriev compiled tables, one of which we will use with minor changes.

Top dressing Terms Fertilizer rate
Ammonium nitrate Superphosphate Potassium sulfate
Humus or compost Autumn, once every 2-3 years
1st dressing After dry garter 90 g 100 g -
2nd feeding 5-7 days before flowering 40 g 30 g 80 g
1st foliar feeding 2-3 days before flowering 30 g 200 g 100 g
Foliar feeding with microelements The next day after foliar feeding Composition of the solution of microelements according to the instructions
2nd foliar dressing Immediately after flowering 30 g 200 g 100 g
3rd feeding 5-6 days after flowering 40 g 30 g 30 g
4th feeding At the end of the day 30 g 30 g
3rd foliar feeding At the beginning of ripening 200 g 100 g
5th feeding 30 g 30 g
4th foliar feeding 200 g 450-500 g of wood ash

Fertilization rates are given for one grape bush with a planned yield of 10 kg. The norms of superphosphate and potassium sulfate have been doubled in comparison with the calculations, since half of these fertilizers are not assimilated by plants.
The rates for foliar dressing are given for the treatment of ~ 10 bushes.

You can read more about fertilizing vineyards in the book by A.L. Dmitrieva "An ideal vineyard or how to get a ton of fruits from a hundred square meters", (Volgograd publishing house, 2001).

Lesson 16 - Preventive measures for the protection of vineyards.

In recent years, the leading institutes of viticulture have developed a number of complex - resistant varieties, which are already being regionalized in Siberia and in our Altai. But these varieties are also to varying degrees resistant to certain diseases and therefore need protection and preventive measures against viral diseases.

In 2002, due to prolonged rains and high humidity, vineyards in Biysk's orchards for the first time, to varying degrees, suffered from powdery mildew. Such varieties as Aleshenkin, Amirkhan, Muscat Katunsky, Grochanka, Pearl Sabo turned out to be especially unstable to this disease. Our growers were not ready to withstand the disease and, as a result, in many vineyards, the harvest was significantly lost, the vine did not ripen and the wintering buds were weakened, i.e. the vines were poorly prepared for wintering and did not survive a rather mild and very snowy winter. Thus, powdery mildew affected the condition of many vineyards.

In the practice of southern viticulture, preventive measures are constantly being taken to combat mildew, gray rot, oidium, anthracnose, phylloxera - the main diseases of vineyards.

To keep the vines healthy, you should not completely abandon chemical treatments, even if your grape varieties are complex - resistant. It is easier to prevent than to cure the disease.

What system of protective measures can be recommended for summer cottages?

Immediately after the dry garter of the vines, the soil surface is sprayed against pests and mildew with a 3% nitrafen solution. After processing, the soil is mulched so that wintering mildew spores cannot spread to the first young shoots and leaves. Treatment with nitrafen can be carried out in the fall, before the grapes are sheltered for the winter. To some extent, the smell of nitraphene scares off mice. The next year, the first treatment can be carried out with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

treatment against mildew is carried out in conjunction with the first foliar dressing with Bordeaux mixture or 3% copper oxychloride solution (30 g of copper oxychloride is added to the general solution of foliar dressing). Currently, substitutes for the Bordeaux mixture are used: polychem, polycarbacin, efal.

Treatment from oidium can be carried out with potassium permanganate together with foliar feeding with microelements, for this it is enough to add a few crystals of potassium permanganate to the solution of microelements.

Protection against oidium is provided by foliar feeding with a mullein solution, as described in the previous lesson. A preventive measure to combat powdery mildew is pollination of plants with ground sulfur or spraying with colloidal sulfur (80-100 g per 10 l of water). In this case, sulfur evaporates, which occur at temperatures above 18 C.

All treatments must be carried out before flowering or after flowering.

Treatments with sulfur preparations should be carried out in cases of detection of foci of infection with powdery mildew.

Treatments against mildew and oidium suppress anthracnose and phomopsis diseases.

Advice from old gardeners.
Grapes and fruit trees can be protected from mice by placing a burnt piece of felt, old felt boots or wool under the shelter during winter protection (shelter). They do not like mice and the smell of crumb rubber.

Lesson 17 - Protecting the vineyard from frost and frost.

Shelter for the winter.

Grapes are a culture of a temperate warm climate, characterized by increased sensitivity to frost and, especially, to early autumn and residual spring frosts. The most sensitive to frost are green herbaceous shoots, which cannot withstand even short frosts of -1-2 C.

With early autumn frosts, wintering buds, even on well-ripened, but not hardened shoots, can be damaged by frosts of -5-8 C.

In winter, the buds on vines that have completely completed the vegetation processes can withstand frost without damage: for Euro-Asian varieties -18-20 C; varieties with increased resistance -22-24 С; interspecific varieties -24-35C; North American varieties -30 C; Amur grapes up to -40-45 C.

Buds that have not bloomed in spring can withstand short frosts of -3-4 C.
The blossoming buds are damaged by -1 C.

Temperature fluctuations from minus to plus in winter after the end of deep dormancy pose a great danger to the kidneys. Under such conditions, the shoots lose their hardening and even slight frosts become dangerous for them.

The roots of the grapes are less hardy than the aboveground part. In Euro-Asian varieties, the roots are damaged at a temperature of -5-6 C; roots of North American interspecific varieties endure -9-12 C; the roots of Amur grapes are able to withstand soil freezing up to -19-21 C.

In our unusual climatic conditions for grapes, measures are needed to protect it from the cold.
To increase the effectiveness of protection, reduce the labor intensity of shelter work, planting grapes is done buried, in trenches 35-40 cm deep.

Grapes usually take refuge in the last decade of September - early October, before the onset of frost. But it is desirable to extend the ripening and hardening time of grapes as much as possible. In September - early October, the cells of the vines have not yet accumulated the required amount of sugars - substances that provide frost resistance. Therefore, during this period, grape buds are damaged even by minor frosts of -4-5 C, at a temperature of -7-8 C, complete death of wintering eyes and poorly ripened vines can occur.

To acquire resistance to low temperatures in the stage of deep organic dormancy, it is necessary that the vines undergo hardening. The first stage of hardening at low positive temperatures from +10 to 0 C for 14-16 days. It is at this stage that the bulk of the starch accumulated in the cells is converted into sugars, which serve as an energy material that protects the plant from freezing.

The second stage of hardening should take place at temperatures from -1 to -15 C, also for a half month.
It is possible to provide hardening conditions in Siberia only in a covering form.

Before the shelter, the grape bush is cut off (see "Lesson Nine"). The left vines and sleeves are tied into bundles and for the period of hardening are left in a horizontal position tied on the lower string of the trellis over a temporary cover made of plastic film or covering material. Thus, it is possible to extend the hardening time of grapes by 2-3 weeks and protect it from possible early autumn frosts.

A layer of mulch 4-5 cm thick made of sawdust, peat, grain husks, humus or coniferous needles not only retains moisture in the soil in summer, but also provides additional protection for the roots from frost. Therefore, it is necessary to check the condition of the mulch and, if necessary, carry out additional mulching of the trench.

The main and most reliable way to protect grapes from frost in winter is to cover it with earth and snow. The thickness of the earth layer is 30-35 cm, i.e. the trench with the grapes laid in it must be covered with earth completely with a slide. With such a shelter, even incompletely ripe vines are preserved. For additional protection from podoprevaniya and mechanical damage to sleeves and vines, it is advisable to spray with milk of lime (preferably Bordeaux mixture), dry and then wrap in polypropylene bags (bags of sugar or flour). After that, the sleeves are laid and pinned with metal staples or wooden hooks at the bottom of the trench and then covered with earth. A plastic film or roofing material is spread over the earthen embankment so that in spring the thawed water rolls down from the earthen embankment and is not poured into the trench. For snow retention, cut vines, branches of trees and bushes and tops are laid out over the shelter, for the same purpose cut vines are left on the trellises.

Many winegrowers of Siberia have tested the "dry" method of sheltering grapes. With such a shelter, the vine remains in natural conditions (not buried in the ground), which reduces the likelihood of podoprevaniya eyes, does not reduce the degree of hardening. The method is as follows: sleeves and fruit vines, tied in bundles with staples or on wooden blocks, are fixed horizontally in the trench, without touching the surface of the earth. You can isolate the vine from the ground by laying a strip of roofing material or plastic wrap under the vines along the entire length of the trench. From above, the trench is closed tight wooden shields 25-30 mm thick, on top of which roofing felt or plastic film is spread to protect against melt water. Of course, in the first and in this case, the film and roofing material must be securely fixed so that they are not blown away by the wind.

For additional insulation and protection from mice, the author wraps the vines in polypropylene bags and completely covers the trenches with pine needles and only then covers them with shields and foil.

To destroy the mice, you must take the most drastic measures. Mice are a disaster in the garden. The damage caused by these rodents can sometimes be irreparable and for fruit trees and for grapes. There are many poisons for rodents on sale, there is no point in listing them. The main thing is that these means of killing mice are enough in your garden and as they are eaten, you need to replenish them again and again. There are folk remedies to repel these pests - burnt pieces of old felt boots, felt or wool, which are laid out under each bush before sheltering for the winter.

Omsk winegrowers, using the "dry" method of shelter, which they call an "air cushion", arrange shelters made of double polyethylene film, which is stretched along arcs installed above the trenches every 1.5-2 m. and spring frosts, prolongation of the growing season, for full ripening and hardening of grapes and protection for the winter period.

Regardless of the method of shelter with the first snowfalls, one should strive to cover the grapes with snow with a layer of at least 60 cm.

Rice. 1 Ways to hide grapes.

a - shelter for the winter with wooden shields.
1 - plastic film
2 - wooden shield
3 - device for pressing the film to the ground
4 - coniferous needles
5 - mulch

b - double foil cover
1 - polyethylene sleeve
2 - board

c - shelter along arcs with covering material
1 - covering material (agrosil No. 60)
2 - metal arc

Opening grapes in spring and frost protection.

The opening of the grapes is started after the snow has melted. First, the means of snow retention are removed. As the thawing proceeds, the means of protection against melt water are removed. Cleaning the vineyard from large debris and foreign objects will speed up the thawing of the soil. In the second half of April, the main means of shelter are removed - earth, insulation materials (shields, mats, spruce branches, reed mats, pine needles, etc.). The vines tied in bunches are lifted from the trench, shaken off the ground, weakened and partially removed the bundle of bunches, if the vines were wrapped, then the wrapper is removed. After that, the vines are suspended on the lower wire string of the trellis to dry. Trenches are cleared of residues of covering material and debris. At the same time, preventive treatment of vines and soil is carried out (see Lesson Sixteen). After drying, the vines are finally untied, untangled, separating from each other, and again lowered into the trench. The grapes should be opened in cloudy weather or in the evening. On a sunny, clear day, overheating and drying out of the vines and buds are possible. they do not yet receive enough water and nutrients and are weakened after hibernation.

The main task after opening is to protect the vines and rapidly swelling buds and young shoots starting to develop from residual spring frosts. The vines should be kept in the trench until the danger of frost has passed. Under the influence of the sun's heat, the vegetation process begins in the grapes, green shoots develop, which are very sensitive even to very light frosts (0-2 C). Therefore, during the entire period of spring frosts, the grapes must be covered. It is enough to miss at least one frost to kill the main fruitful shoots that develop first. Of course, after a week or so, the replacement kidneys will wake up and start growing, but they will be delayed in development, moreover, they are usually sterile.

Frosts in Siberia are the most serious danger for grapes, even more dangerous than the severe frosts of winter.
Spring frosts until mid-May can be very strong (-10-15 C). In late May and early June, they weaken, but their probability is not excluded until the end of the first decade of June.

How to determine the possibility of night frosts? If in the evening, in clear weather, the air temperature drops sharply, approaching 0 C, with a high degree of probability, you can expect a strong frost at night and always in the morning. The grapes need to be covered urgently. As a stationary shelter, a "hut" with a double wall made of a polyethylene sleeve can be built over the vine trench (see Fig. 1, c). Instead of a polyethylene sleeve, you can use a covering nonwoven material "Agrotex" No. 60. For the construction of shelters, you can use the lower wire string of the trellis, on which you can easily straighten, stretch and secure the covering material. It is possible to make a shelter on a frame made of metal arcs, stuck with their ends into the ground after 1.5-2 meters on both sides of the trench. Between each other, the arcs must be tied with a light wire or cord in several longitudinal rows so that, when tensioned, the covering material does not sag between the arcs (Figure 1, c). You can press the covering material on both sides of the trench with metal pipes or rods, boards or poles, you can sprinkle the edges with earth.

If there is a threat of frost near such structures, it is enough to close the ends, for which the covering material at the ends must be left with a margin.

Under such shelters, in the daytime, a greenhouse effect is created, the air and soil are warming up more intensively, and therefore, the vital activity of grapes proceeds more actively. Thus, in addition to frost protection, a reduction in the ripening time of berries, vine ripening and hibernating buds is ensured.

When the threat of frost has disappeared, the grapes are finally opened. Vines with green shoots must be very carefully separated from each other and tied to the trellis strings in accordance with the chosen formation of the bush.

Lesson 18 - Enjoy grapes all year round.

Having mastered the lessons of Siberian viticulture, you were able to grow young bushes of grapes, got full-weight clusters on adult bushes, which delight you with a variety of shapes, colors and, most importantly, extraordinary taste.

So how can you prolong the pleasure and enjoyment of all this charm? What to do with amber, emerald, ruby, black berries?

The grape can be enjoyed not only by consuming it fresh for a short time, it can be used to prepare a variety of sweet products for future use: jams, marinades, juices, jellies, compotes, marmalade, jam, wine.

Here is some of them:

Grape jam.

For jam, grapes with large fleshy berries and strong skin are used. The berry, removed from the ridges and washed in running water, is dipped in a syrup made from 1 kg of sugar and 1 glass of water and heated to a boil. After half an hour of exposure, they begin to cook over low heat until the berries settle, the solution becomes transparent, and the drop of jam stops spreading. In the process of cooking, the foam is removed and the floating seeds are removed. Before removing from heating, you can add citric acid and a few vanillin crystals.

The cooled jam is poured into jars, covered with lids and stored in a dry, cool place.

Pickled grapes.

Pickled grapes with a dense skin. The bunches to be pickled are cleaned of damaged berries, washed well in running water and, after the water has drained off, whole or divided into parts, are placed tightly in glass jars, filled with marinade and covered with lids. The marinade is prepared according to the recipe: for 1 liter of water, take 500 g of sugar, 150 g of 8% vinegar, 25 g of salt, 6-7 grains of cloves, the same amount of allspice peas, a little cinnamon, bay leaf. All this is boiled for 10-15 minutes. Note: vinegar is poured into the marinade after boiling. The finished marinade is cooled, filtered and poured into jars with grapes. Banks are placed in a container with cold water and heated to a boil, sterilized for 5-6 minutes.

Grape juice.

For the preparation of grape juice, any grape variety can be used, provided that the berries are fully ripe.

The bunches are washed in running water and dried. The berries are separated from the ridges, unripe and spoiled are discarded. You can squeeze the juice in a juicer, a screw press or manually under pressure.

Muscat grapes such as "Tukay", "Pearl Sabo", "Muscat Katunskiy" give the juices a wonderful nutmeg aroma. Juice from grapes "Riddle of Sharova" has a unique mysterious bouquet of aromas of exotic fruits and strawberries.

To obtain colored juices, black, red, dark pink grape varieties such as "Violet Early", "Katyr - 2", "Isabella", "Cardinal" and others are used. The bunches are placed in a colander or sieve and immersed for 5 minutes in a saucepan of water brought to a boil. Then the grapes are laid out in an enamel bowl, tightly covered with a lid and allowed to cool. After that, the berries are separated from the ridges and the juice is squeezed out of the berries. The juice is heated to 90 C and poured into glass bottles or jars washed with hot water and soda, rolled up with lids, and cooled by turning the jars onto the lid, and the bottles, laying on their side.

If you want to get a clear juice without pulp, it is left for clarification for 3-4 days. After a precipitate has formed at the bottom of the bottles or cans, it is carefully poured out again, heated again to 90 C and poured into a new container.

Jam from grapes with fruit (bekmez).

The grapes, washed and separated from the ridges, are boiled over low heat with constant stirring until the berries crack and juice appears. When boiling the juice, remove the foam and floating seeds, add sugar, cut into cubes peeled and core fruits (apples, pears) and lemon wedges. For 5 kg of grapes add 1 kg of sugar, 0.5 kg of fruit, 2-3 lemons. Cooking is carried out with constant stirring until honey is thick. Then the jam is laid out in jars, left open until it cools completely, and then closed with plastic lids.

Grape compote.

For compote, take large ripe grapes. The berries are washed, carefully removed from the ridges, placed tightly in jars and poured with hot syrup, for the preparation of which they take 250-300 g of sugar per 1 liter of water. The grapes are kept in syrup for 2-3 minutes. Then the syrup is drained, reheated until it boils, and the berries are again poured over them to the top and covered with lids.

Compote turns out to be tastier if the syrup is prepared with juice squeezed from defective grapes (but not spoiled). It is good to add a few slices of lemon to the compote from sweet grapes.

Dried grapes.

Seedless varieties with a high sugar content and full maturity are usually used for drying. Many amateur gardeners leave grapes for drying on the vine until the berries wither, and then sort and dry them in the sun. Before drying, the bunches of grapes are carefully examined, rotten and damaged berries are removed and laid out on trays and baking sheets. When drying, the bunches are periodically turned over and this is repeated until the berries are dry. Usually dry berries fall off the branches themselves. Dried grapes are winnowed in the wind and stored.

Some grape varieties can be kept dried for 5-6 months. These include "Tukai", "Original", "Pleven stable" and others.

When drying, bunches can be covered with gauze from flies and wasps.

Dried bunches are stored in a suspended state, without touching each other, in a dry ventilated room at a temperature of +5 - -1 C.

Grape wines.

The quality of the wine largely depends on the grape varieties. It is desirable that these were technical or table-technical varieties with a high sugar content of 18-22% and an acidity of 7-8g / l.

Excellent dessert wines are made from the Muscat varieties "Tukai", "Pearl Sabo", "White Muscat"; many are attracted by isabelle wines; good red wines from "Early Magarach", "Violet early".

Harvesting grapes for wine should be done only in dry weather. Rotten, moldy and unripe berries are completely unsuitable for winemaking.

The harvested grapes are manually separated from the ridges, while each berry is crushed and loaded into a screw press, under the tray of which a glass bottle or enamel dish is placed. As the press is loaded, the juice flows out, and the pulp settles, and the press is supplemented with a new portion of grapes. After the juice ceases to separate by gravity, they begin to squeeze it out mechanically, gradually increasing the pressing pressure. The squeezed pulp is removed from the press into an enamel bowl, mixed with the next squeezed portions and pressed again. Juice squeezing can be done on an electric juicer.

In the absence of a juicer or a press, the pulp is squeezed out under pressure or by hand, placing it in a canvas or nylon bag, but losses of up to 20% are inevitable.

Dry white wine.
Table (dry) wine is wine that does not contain sugar. During fermentation, all grape sugar "dry" (hence the name - "dry wine") turns into wine alcohol and carbon dioxide. Table wines, depending on the sugar content in the grapes, have an alcoholic strength of 9 to 14 degrees.

White wine is made from white grape varieties.

The squeezed juice (wort) settles for a day at a temperature of + 15-20 C. After settling, the wort is carefully removed from the sediment using a rubber or vinyl chloride tube, pouring into bottles, where fermentation will take place. Are the bottles filled no more than? volume so that the wort is not ejected from the bottle at the time of vigorous fermentation. Wort fermentation takes place on its own grape yeast, which develops on the surface of the berries at the time of their ripening. That is why it is very important to harvest the grapes in dry weather. Rains can wash away the yeast culture from the berries and active fermentation of grape must in this case may not work. It is most reliable to use a pure yeast culture for fermentation. But getting them nowadays is quite difficult. They are not available in retail trade, and they only go to wine production. But you can make the "leaven of wine" yourself. A few days before the grape harvest, ripe berries are harvested for wine early varieties grapes. Two glasses of unwashed berries are crushed, placed in a bottle, a glass of water and half a glass of sugar are added. Then everything is shaken until the sugar is completely dissolved, the bottle is closed with a cotton swab and placed in a dark place where the temperature should be + 22-24 C. After 3-4 days, the leaven begins to ferment, it is filtered through cheesecloth and used to activate the fermentation process, adding from calculating 2% on the total amount of wort. The starter culture must not be stored for more than 10 days.

Bottles with fermentation wort are placed in a room with a temperature not lower than +18 C and not higher than +24 C and closed with a water seal (see Fig. 1). At temperatures above or below optimal temperatures, unkindness can occur.

Fermentation has two phases:
The first is vigorous fermentation, lasts 5-8 days, during this period, up to 90% of sugar is fermented;
The second is quiet fermentation, which lasts 3-4 weeks.

To preserve the aroma and prevent possible oxidation, the bottle with fermenting wine is topped up with the same wine. For this, the wort must be fermented in two bottles. After the end of vigorous fermentation, one bottle is poured to the top from the second, closed again with a cork with a siphon dipped in a glass of water. In a filled bottle, quiet fermentation takes place, as can be judged by the release of bubbles from the siphon (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1 Phase of quiet fermentation and clarification of wine.

The end of fermentation is determined by the cessation of bubbling and clarification of the wine with a clear interface between the wine and the yeast sediment. The wine is separated from the sediment. To do this, put the bottle of wine on the table, and the empty bottle on the floor. An overflow tube is immersed in the wine so that its end is slightly higher than the yeast sediment. Wine is aspirated from the other end of the tube, and when it starts to flow, this end is lowered into a bottle on the floor. The remaining yeast sediment is poured into a smaller container, allowed to settle again and the settled wine is again drained. The thick is filtered through a cloth filter. The bottle is topped up with the filtered wine to half the neck. The bottle is tightly closed with a cork or wooden tongue and is placed in a cold room with a temperature not exceeding +15 C for re-settling. After a month, the wine is again removed from the sediment and can be bottled up to half the height of the neck. The bottles are closed with corks and placed lying down.

Note. Cork stoppers during long-term storage of wine are poured with resin or sealing wax.

Dry red wine.

Red wines are prepared from grape varieties with black, purple or dark red berries.
Red wines are prepared at home with some difference from the technology of white wine. After crushing the berries, the pulp is not separated from the wort, but all together are placed in an enamel bowl for? volume, add sourdough there (2% of the loaded grapes). During vigorous fermentation, the mash cap rising above the wort is stirred several times a day. You can press down the mash cap for the entire period of vigorous fermentation with light oppression so that it does not float. This is to prevent the wine material from oxidizing and turning into vinegar.

After the end of vigorous fermentation, the wine must be separated from the pulp. To do this, the entire wine mass is filtered through a sieve or colander, and the pulp is pressed or passed through a juicer. The wort separated from the pulp is poured onto? volume in the bottle is closed with a water seal and the process continues using white wine technology.

Dessert wines.

Dessert wine has a high free sugar content (up to 15%). It should be well colored, transparent, aromatic, thick, with low acidity. At home, dessert wine can be prepared by adding concentrated grape juice or sugar to dry wine.

Before the start of fermentation, 50 g of sugar is added to the grape must for each liter. The rest of the process is carried out using dry wine technology. After the end of fermentation, the wine should be dry, since the sugar in it has completely fermented. The wine is allowed to settle, and when it clears up (this happens after about two months), it is removed from the sediment. To add sweetness to clear wine, add 100-150 g of sugar or about 200 g of concentrated grape juice for each liter. Sugar is preliminarily dissolved in a small amount of the same wine with gentle heating in a water bath and constant stirring and then poured into the total volume of wine. After adding sugar, the wine in the bottle is shaken (mixed) and again settled until it is completely clarified. The finished wine is bottled, sealed and stored as dry wines.

The best temperature for dry wine is not higher than +10 C, and for dessert wine it is not more than +15 C.

Do not store wine in the light.

During storage, sediment (tartar) may appear in bottles. Do not let this bother you, it does not mean that the wine has deteriorated. Just pour the wine into new bottles or try to keep the sediment out of your glasses.