Water accumulating in the rain or from melting snow near the house can lead to flooding and destruction of the foundation. To prevent this from happening, a storm sewer is required in a private house.
In addition, it is required for the accumulation of water resources in regions with arid climates. And also to drain excess moisture from vegetation in the local area. It can be easily assembled by yourself.
Storm sewer in a private house: device
Drainage is a system that collects and filters melt and rainwater that accumulates in a special reservoir. Then they are used as technical water.
Trays or storm water inlets for storm sewers, according to drainage methods, are divided into:
- closed type;
- open;
- combined type.
An open and closed storm sewer in a private house is considered part of the path. In the first case (simple point sewerage) from the roof through the drain pipe, water enters the tray. In the second (closed) version, water enters a buried pipe, then into a collector to collect water. Closed trays are directly mounted in them, leaving only gratings on the surface. Through them, moisture goes into the underground pipeline. This type is used for large building perimeters.
For open storm sewers in a private house, external water intakes are used. They are open and surface mounted.
By design, they do not differ from closed ones, but they are flooded more often, so more care is needed. Apply this or a small cottage. There is also a third type of storm drainage system - mixed or combined. Features of internal and external drainage are combined here. In it, one part of the stormwater drainage is carried out with closed drains, the other with open ones.
Drainage elements
Drains and drainage lines come from:
- plastic;
- concrete;
- cast iron;
- alloy steel;
- aluminum.
For the arrangement of storm sewers in a private house, plastic and steel materials are used with their own hands, since they are reliable in operation and easy to install.
The storm sewer system consists of:
- gutters and storm water inlets;
- collectors for collecting water.
Gutters and storm water inlets
This is the initial link in the system through which wastewater enters the drain and pipeline. When choosing a material, preference should be given to concrete or plastic, since metal ones are very noisy under the blows of rain and gusts of wind, if they are not buried in the ground. Moreover, they are susceptible to corrosion. Concrete is more reliable and has a long service life. However, such gutters have strictly regulated dimensions and it is not always possible to install them on the site. Plastic is easily cut and combined, and the storm inlet can have different depths of the well. With an existing blind area, they can be easily mounted without dismantling it.
Filters
Designed to trap stones, leaves, sand, branches and other debris that can clog pipes. Lattices allow less frequent cleaning of storm sewers, eliminate the risk of stumbling. Cast iron is reliable as a material for making a grate, but it requires painting every 2 years. Steel rusts quickly. 
Aluminum can be considered the best option because it has a long service life and looks stylish. However, it is somewhat more expensive.
The dimensions of the holes should not be very small, as they should let a lot of water pass at once, but not large, otherwise debris will penetrate into the system and lead to its clogging.
Pipe networks
The pipes transfer the stream to the water collection point. If they are made of PVC, then this is an ideal solution for storm sewers. Their smooth surface eliminates the risk of silting. Their diameter is 100-150 mm.
Collector for collecting water
The collector is part of a closed and mixed stormwater system and is a reservoir for receiving the main stream of water. Such a well can be equipped with a sand and gravel bed and concrete rings or a concrete ring with a bottom for using the liquid in the future. The plastic well is collected from PVC molds. It is perfect for those areas where groundwater is superficial. Water disposal takes place using a pipeline system, and moisture can also be used for economic purposes on the site.
Instead of a collector, it is permissible to make drainage from a special perforated plastic container with water discharge into the ground, placing it horizontally and burying it in the sand. Through the holes, moisture will gradually seep into the sand and go into the depths.
In addition, the stormwater device can be supplemented with a bottom tray installed near the porch at the front door, pipes for soil drainage, and a hatch for access to the system.
Operating principle
The main principle of the sewage system is to adhere to gravity, for which it is necessary to take into account the following factors:
- The location of the building to determine the length of the stormwater pipes around the house.
- Relief features of the area.
- Climate and rainfall in order to determine the volume and number of wells and pipes.
With an average annual rainfall of 60-90 cubic meters. m, the diameter of the pipes should be 11-12 cm.
The installation scheme for storm trays in the courtyard of the house depends on the type of rainfall collection. It can be linear or point.
The layout of the system should be considered when designing the house so that the drains are discharged in a straight line and there are fewer problems with cleaning.
The diagram indicates the location of communications, storage, equipment and drain circuits. When combining drainage and stormwater into the sewer system, a more serious approach and a geodetic survey of the territory will be required in order to identify the level of groundwater. This will make it possible to determine the most convenient place for the accumulator and drainage pads.
Installation
Before installation, the territory is marked in order to determine the location of the trenches. If turns are necessary, then they must be done at right angles and inspection hatches should be made in these places.
Installation of ground channels, trays and gutters should be carried out in open areas of the site. When installing the tray, the soil around it should be tamped to prevent soil subsidence.
Pipes are laid with a slope of 1 cm per 1 m of length.
It is better to use them from PVC, since the material does not corrode. Pipes are laid in a trench, into which crushed stone and sand are first poured, geotextiles are spread. 
Then the pipe is completely wrapped with geomaterial and the trench is covered with excavated soil. 
The connections are made with couplings that are suitable in size and type. 
Finally, the receiver is installed. 
Installation is carried out with a bias towards the drive.
If the elements of the system pass under the functional zones (entrance, parking lot), then additional reinforcement in the form of an overlap with further backfilling with soil will be required.
Cleaning function
The storm drainage system, unlike a septic tank, does not need deep cleaning. In this case, water can be discharged into the ground, the nearest stream, ravine, or used for irrigation.
At the same time, without violating sanitary and hygienic standards and soil ecology. But basic filtration is necessary, for which sand traps are used, which trap various debris, stones, leaves, and so on. Also, the pipes are periodically flushed with a jet pressure using a pump. The stream can eliminate contamination in hard-to-reach places. The drive is cleaned separately using disinfectants.
The construction market offers all kinds of storm sewer options, so any configuration can be applied. The most reliable is the trench system using trays, wells, collectors, filter membranes. But it is provided for a large area; for a small area, an open storm drain around the perimeter of the house is suitable. The drain can be connected to a septic tank with multi-stage biological wastewater treatment.
Only rain and melt water does not need fine filtration. For them, it is enough to equip the system with gratings and filters, but they must be cleaned mechanically, otherwise the canals can become clogged, causing a flood of the territory.
Unusual storm sewer do it yourself - video
Your favorite shoes are probably familiar with the delights of a poorly performing city storm. Often, after a "dense" meeting with deep puddles accumulated on the asphalt, adorable shoes and boots leave only pleasant memories and photographs of themselves. For a city dweller, the loss of shoes is the maximum damage, the owner of a country house is damaged more extensively. In order for the atmospheric water not to slowly but persistently destroy the foundation, not flood the basements, or contribute to the rotting of the root system of plants on the site, drainage of water is required. A not too complicated storm sewer system with their own hands can well be organized by a contractor who has nothing to do with construction specialties.
Purpose and specifics of the stormwater device
A storm sewer is a complex of devices and channels that collects, filters and removes atmospheric moisture into filtration fields, special reservoirs, reservoirs. Its task is to eliminate excess moisture that creates discomfort, destroys structures and shortens the life cycle of plants.
The storm drain is a linear network that includes such standard elements as:
- storm water inlets, represented by funnels, pallets, linear trays, collecting water;
- gutters, pipes, trays transporting water to sand traps - filtration devices, and further to collectors, ditches, reservoirs, to unloading fields;
- inspection wells required to control the stormwater system;
filters, sand traps that retain soil particles, plant fibers and debris that protect the network from contamination.
The stormwater drain is a complex of channels and devices that collect excess atmospheric moisture, filter them and drain them first into a collector well, then to unloading points
Options for storm water inlets: on the left is the door sump, in the middle there is a funnel receiving water from the drain, on the right is a gutter with a sand trap
All elements are combined into an integral system operating on a linear or point technology. If storm sewer channels are laid in the ground, pipes are used for their construction. In the surface ditches, gutters and trays made of plastic, asbestos or concrete are installed.
Important. To ensure the natural movement of rain and melt water to the places of filtration and unloading, pipes, trays, gutters are laid with a slope towards the catchment devices and unloading places.
Classification by the method of collection of effluents
Depending on the collection principle, according to which the storm sewer device is performed, all existing storm drains are divided into two types.
- Point systems, which include storm water inlets installed under the gutters of internal and external gutters. Each device that receives atmospheric water is connected to a common line. According to the technical conditions, storm water inlets are equipped with special gratings and sand traps, preventing the penetration of suspended soil particles, plant residues, and debris into the system.
Point type storm drain: the storm water inlet is installed under the gutter, the funnel receiving water is equipped with a filter mesh and an internal basket for collecting litter
- A linear type of storm drain, which is a network of canals laid underground or in slightly buried trenches. Trays that collect and transfer water, laid in an open way, are also equipped with sand traps and equipped with grates. Only grilles are installed along the entire line. In contrast to the point scheme, linear sewage collects water not only from roof drains, but also from paths, from areas covered with concrete, paved with paving bricks. This type of sewer "covers" and handles more objects.
A linear storm drainage scheme can cover a large area, drain waste not only from the roof, but also from landscaped areas, from sidewalks, and from those sides of the house where, due to the specifics of the pitched structure, there are no drains
Focusing on the design differences and the degree of coverage of the territory, the type of system is selected. However, these are not fundamental selection criteria. Basically, storm sewers in the country are arranged according to the experience in the organization and operation of storm sewers available in a particular area. Starting from it, they determine both the type of channel laying and the depth of their laying.
Preliminary calculations and design
Implementation of plans without calculations is a waste of money. If the system does not cope with the function assigned to it by the owner, you should not undertake its construction at all, and too powerful storm sewers of a private house will "eat up" a lot of financial resources.
Video: design and installation rules
Information required for calculations
- Data on the average amount of precipitation recorded by meteorologists in a particular area. You can find them in SNiP 2.04.03-85.
- The frequency of rains, the thickness of the snow cover, necessary for those who plan to use the system and to drain melt water.
- The drainage area. For a point variety, this is the roof area. Moreover, not the full value, but the value of its projection in the plane. For a linear system, the drainage area will be the sum of the areas of all processed objects.
- Physical and mechanical characteristics of the soils available on the site.
- The presence and location of the communications already existing on the site.
Calculation of the volume of discharged wastewater
The above exact values of the amount and intensity of precipitation are the result of many years of research on physical phenomena in the atmosphere of a given area. They can be found in SNiP or obtained from the local meteorological service. Further calculations are performed using the formula.
The formula for calculating the flow rate of atmospheric water, as well as the constants and variables used in the calculations
The correction factor used in this formula:
- 0.4 for areas covered with gravel;
- 0.85 for concreted areas;
- 0.95 for asphalted areas and paths;
- 1.0 for roofs.
We got the volume value, then the required pipeline diameter is determined according to the tables of the current SNiP.
Channel laying depth
It is necessary to lay trays or channels from pipes at the depth at which they are usually laid in a given region. You can find out the exact value in the construction organization or ask the neighbors who have already equipped their site with a stormwater. In the middle lane, the rainwater drainage system is usually arranged at a depth of 0.3 meters, if the diameter of the pipeline or open trays is not more than 50 cm. Trays and pipes with larger dimensions are buried by 0.7 m.
An important point. If there is a drainage system on the site, the storm sewer is laid above the drain.
If a drainage system has already been laid on the territory, the storm drain is placed above
The high cost of earthworks usually does not stimulate the desire of professional installation customers to go deep into the ground. Even if it is decided to do the storm sewer device with your own hands, there is no point in burying it too deeply. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection wells below the level of seasonal freezing, as instructed by GOSTs. They can be placed higher, insulated with heat-insulating material - geotextile and a layer of rubble that protects the network from freezing. Due to the insignificant deepening, the labor intensity of the work is significantly reduced.
Insulation of storm sewers in case of insignificant deepening is carried out from a layer of geotextile and a layer of rubble, thanks to the protection of channels from freezing, you can significantly save on earthwork
However, it should not be forgotten that the channels to the collection and cleaning devices must be led at an angle. This means that the level of the place of entry into the collector well must be below the level of the tray or pipe extending from the storm water inlet. To accurately calculate the depth of their installation, you need to draw a site plan and, taking into account the slope of the channels, calculate everything.
The scheme of the stormwater drainage device, the channels of which are laid below the freezing depth, the insulating geotextile protects in this case from the aggression of groundwater
Slope standards and norms
GOST regulates the minimum slope for pipes with a 150 mm diameter of 0.008 (slope value in mm / m). Pipes with a section of 200 mm are laid at an angle of 0.007. Pipe slopes may vary slightly depending on site conditions. The largest slope is 0.02 in the zone of connection of the canal to the storm water inlet, since in this place it is necessary to increase the speed of the gravity of water. In front of the sand traps, the speed of the current must slow down so that the suspended particles can "settle", the angle of inclination is the smallest there.
Devices for collecting water in envelope-type systems with storm inlets-funnels are installed at the intersection points of the slopes.
The process and specifics of stormwater installation
The rules for carrying out installation work on the installation of storm drains are identical to the principles of laying ordinary external sewer pipelines. However, if the house is not equipped with gutters, you need to start with their device.
The rules for installing a stormwater drainage system are similar to the rules for laying a conventional sewage system.
Construction of the roofing component
- In the ceilings of the house, you need to make holes for storm water inlets. After installing the devices and their attachment to the bitumen mastic, the junction points must be sealed.
- Waste pipes and risers are being installed.
- All elements must be attached to the structures of the house with clamps.
Scheme of the roofing part of the storm drain: 1. gutter; 2. the corner of the gutter is external; 3. inner corner of the gutter; 4. gutter plug; 5. gutter connector; 6.hook; 7. hook; 8. funnel; 9. drainage funnel; 10. pipe elbow; 11. drain pipe; 12. connecting pipe; 13. pipe bracket (for brick); 14. pipe bracket (for wood); 15. drain knee; 16.pipe tee
Underground construction
According to the planned plan, drawn up taking into account the slopes and the depth of the canals adopted in this region, it is necessary to dig a trench. If it is supposed to insulate the pipeline by forming a shell of geotextiles and rubble around it, or to arrange a cushion of sand, their power should also be taken into account. Here's how to proceed:
- The bottom of the trench is thoroughly rammed before installation. Large stones encountered during digging are removed, the holes formed after their removal are covered with soil.
- A sand pillow is poured onto the bottom, its standard thickness is 20 cm.
- A pit is being formed for the installation of a collection tank. It is easiest to use a ready-made plastic container as a collector, but if you wish, you can make a collector well yourself by pouring concrete into the formwork arranged in advance.
Pipes are laid in tamped ditches and equipped with sand cushions; fittings are used to connect them into a single system.
The connections of the gutters laid underground are made using fittings
- It is recommended to include viewing wells in the straight branches of the storm drain, with a length of more than 10 m.
- Sand traps must be installed at the points of joining of collectors and pipelines that receive atmospheric water.
- All devices and devices are connected in one circuit, the joints of the components are sealed.
Before backfilling the trench, it is necessary to carry out tests by pouring water into the water intakes. No weak points found as a result of testing? We fill up the system laid in the trench with soil, and we equip the gutters, trays, pallets with gratings.
Before backfilling the trench, the constructed system must be checked, identified and eliminated all defects and leaks, if any.
Advice. Pitched roof structures are not equipped with gutters on all sides. Where they are not available, it is recommended to install gutters with gratings and include them in the general network.
It is forbidden to unload the city collector well into the general sewerage network due to the presence of chemicals and oil products in the effluent. The owner of a country house can freely connect the storm drain to the sewer, which is his property, because there are no dangerous components that require fine cleaning in it.
After cleaning in a sand trap, water enters the sewer, from there it can be distributed directly into the ground, unloaded into reservoirs or into the ordinary sewer network of a private house
Improvement of the house and the surrounding area with a surface drainage system will help extend the service life of structures, relieve owners of puddles and slush, and prevent plant roots from rotting. A simple downpour of the site with your own hands can be mounted by the owner himself, but even if you contact the builders, information about the specifics of its organization will not interfere. The owner himself and will be able to track violations, and repair, and clean.
Today, many people with their own homes decide to make a storm sewer. It should be said right away that the work process itself is complex. The complexity of the first step is to create a project and the need for calculations. In this article, we will tell you how to make a storm sewer yourself.
Why do we need a stormwater
We can say that storm sewage simultaneously helps to solve two problems:
- Provides reliable protection of the foundation and walls of the house from water ingress, washing away, due to rain or melting snow.
- Prevents the appearance of puddles on the site, site, parking and paths.
In short, a storm drain is necessary in order to increase the comfort of the site, as well as extend the life of existing buildings.
Note! The construction of storm sewers resembles the construction of indoor and outdoor sewers. If you did this system yourself, then this work is within your power!
Here's what's included in the standard stormwater kit:
- Funnels for receiving water.
- Water collection trays.
- Pipes.
- Collector.
We will write in more detail about their use and installation below, and now it's time to start making a storm sewer project and making the necessary calculations.
Design and preliminary calculations
The implementation of the plan without the necessary calculations is money thrown into the wind. Why? The fact is that if the constructed storm sewer cannot cope with its main functions, then there is no point in starting work. Moreover, if you make too large a stormwater system, it will require a lot of finance. For this reason, first of all, it is required to calculate all costs.
Required information for accurate calculations:
- Information about the average amount of precipitation recorded in your area by meteorologists. This information can be obtained from SNIP.
- If you plan to drain melt water, then you need information about the thickness of the snow cover and, accordingly, the frequency of rains.
- Waste area. If a point rainfall is chosen, then an exact roof area is required. In this case, it is important to know not just its value, but the size in accordance with the projection in the plane. If a linear storm drain is chosen, then it is necessary to know the area of the entire territory that it will serve.
- Physical and chemical characteristics of the soil.
- Location and availability of all communications that run underground.
All this information is needed to make the following calculations of the volume of discharged water. When all the information is in your hands, the calculations are carried out according to the following formula:
Here is the correction factor used in this formula:
- 0.4 - for crushed stone cover.
- 0.85 - for the concreted area.
- 0.95 - for an asphalt site.
- 1.0 - for roofs.
Based on the obtained value, the required pipe diameter is selected exclusively according to the current SNIP table.
As for the project, you should consider the option of making a rainwater drain. In most cases, this will be influenced by the nature of your area. It is necessary to consider the method of draining the water towards the collector. If on your territory it is not possible to make a sufficient slope towards the drainage of water, then it is necessary to provide pumping equipment. Please note that you need to draw up a project for both the outdoor storm sewer, which will be located on the roof, and for the underground system. Now let's look at the location of the storm drain on the roof.
We start the installation with a storm drain on the roof
On the roof, the equipment is installed along a gutter that will collect all the water from the roof. If your budget allows, then gutters can be purchased ready-made with a set of fasteners. If not, then you can do it on your own. For example, by sawing a pipe in half lengthwise. The pipes for the gutter can be polymer, asbestos and steel. If there are strong winds and rainfalls in your area, then it is best to install metal gutters.
To determine the size of the gutter, you need to carry out calculations in accordance with SNIP. It is recommended to install special funnels in order to drain water, as well as to prevent clogging of the drainpipes. Each funnel is additionally equipped with a protective grill or a special hood.
Note! If your roof is pitched, it is recommended to use hoods. If the roof is flat, it is better to use grates.
During installation, make sure that the connection of the funnel to the roof is airtight. For this, the use of bolts will not be sufficient. Additionally, you can use a mastic or waterproofing material. There is also a danger of turbulence. To prevent them, a flow straightener is used. So, a pipe is laid down from the funnel along the entire wall, where water enters the storm water inlet.
Wastewater collection classification
The storm sewer device is divided into two methods of collecting water: point and linear.
Point stormwater system. Such a system includes storm water inlets. They are installed under the gutters of external and internal gutters. Each individual receiver underground is connected to a common trunk. The rainwater inlet is equipped with a grate and a sand trap. This prevents debris, plant debris and other suspended soil particles from entering the line.
Linear stormwater system. In this case, the storm drain is a network of canals that are laid underground or slightly deepened into a trench. Those trays that are laid by an open method are additionally equipped with a sand trap, and are also equipped with gratings. A linear storm drain differs from a point one in that it collects water not only from the roof, but also from the territory adjacent to the house. It is this system that is used for large areas.
So, based on the size of the surrounding area, you need to decide on one of the types of system. Although this is not the main factor that needs to be considered when choosing a water harvesting method. Already at this stage, preparatory work should be carried out.
Channel laying depth
Place the trays at the depth required in your area. For example, it could be 300 mm deep. If the pipeline or open trays are large enough, then they will need to be laid at a depth of 500 mm. Larger channels will need to be buried up to 700 mm.
Note! If you already have a drainage system, then the storm drain should be laid exclusively above it.
If you want to cut down on labor, then don't go too deep into the ground. Moreover, it is not necessary to install the collector below the level of freezing of the ground. Accordingly, if the collector is raised as high as possible, then the channels will not need to be deepened too much. To prevent the collector from freezing in winter, it can be insulated with heat-insulating material. Accordingly, if you make a storm drain, then you will have to dig trenches much less. At the same time, this tolerance should not be overused. The channels must have a sufficient slope for the water to drain well. Therefore, in any case, the collector will be located below the storm water inlet. It is in this case that a project will come in handy, which will allow you to accurately calculate the required slope of the highway.
Norms and standards of slopes
If you are guided by the GOST regulations, then a pipe with 150 Ø mm should have a slope of 0.008 mm / m. pipe 200 Ø angle - 0.007 mm / m. Based on the characteristics of a particular site, this slope may vary slightly.
Pay attention to the fact that in the place of the storm water inlet the optimal slope is 0.02. If there is an insufficient slope in this place, then there is a risk that the system will not cope with the abundant flow of water. Moreover, near the sand trap, the flow rate should be lower, because suspended particles must have time to settle. Therefore, near this device, the angle of inclination should be as small as possible.
Ground mounting
At the first stage of the installation work, you installed a storm drain on the roof and brought the gutters to the storm water inlet. It is necessary to start work on the ground with the installation of a storm water inlet or, as they are called, water intake funnels. It is important to install them directly under the downpipe. Each roof outlet is tied into one system. For this reason, you can make the required number of pipe holes yourself. With the help of a bend, the pipes are connected to the storm water inlet.
After that, it is necessary to prepare trenches for laying trays and pipes. Their installation must be carried out on a sand cushion 100 mm thick. As mentioned above, when laying pipes, you must strictly follow the slope. If you do not do this, then there will be no point in the money spent and work. In the process of installation work, you will additionally need the following elements:
- Plug. It will prevent the reverse direction of water in case the pipe is overfilled.
- Trash box. It will keep trays and pipes clean.
- Siphon. This item will prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer system.
To significantly reduce the amount of land work, a drainage pipe and a storm drain can be laid in one trench at the same time. However, you should not combine these two different directions. As mentioned above, the drainage pipe will be located lower, and a storm sewer can run above it.
Note! The slope of the entire system will always be directed towards the collector or to the place where the storm sewer is discharged.
Accordingly, the entire storm sewer pipe system must be connected into one route, which will be directed to the collector. It is very important that the manifold itself is equipped with sight rings. This will allow you to check the level of accumulated water in a timely manner, as well as clean it of possible debris. When the entire system of pipes and trays is laid, all that remains is to cover it with strong gratings made of reinforced concrete or metal.
After that, it is necessary to check the entire storm sewer system for operability. To do this, you need to pour a bucket of water into each storm water inlet. Then make sure the water flows well. It is also important to check the system for leaks. If one is found, then it should be eliminated by covering it with a sealant. If the whole system is working perfectly, then you just need to fill up the trench. In this case, the grate can be covered with cellophane, so as not to cover the tray with earth.
Of course, the collected storm sewer will work reliably without failures and special problems, if you follow some of the rules regarding its operation.
The case is only yours!
So, we examined the basic recommendations and rules for installing storm sewers. Of course, its presence at every site is simply necessary. Remember, you are quite capable of performing the installation of storm sewers with your own hands, without the help of professionals. To do this, you need to thoroughly understand the essence of the matter and you will succeed.
Storm drainage scheme with drainage elements
Reading time ≈ 3 minutes
High-quality storm water drainage is an important system in a private house. It provides a quick drainage of melt or rainwater, excluding their accumulation in the ground around the building. The presence of such a system prevents premature destruction of the foundation, the formation of puddles in the yard. There are both budgetary and more expensive and reliable storm sewer options. You can install each of them on your own.
Features of the device of storm sewers
The manufacture of storm sewers, as in the photo, must necessarily begin with drawing up drawings, determining the optimal type of system, and selecting its components. The simplest solution is to install ground concrete gutters, which will drain the sediment outside the area to be developed. This system is ideal for small country houses.
Storm sewers can be laid with their own hands and underground or have a combined type (above ground + underground). It is optimal to carry out work on the installation of such systems immediately after the construction of a house or when arranging a courtyard adjacent to the structure of the territory. Naturally, removing asphalt or tiles for the manufacture of storm sewers is inconvenient: the procedure will take too long and lead to a significant waste of money.
The structure of the storm sewer in a private house
The created storm sewer in the country or near a private house should consist of a roof drain and pipes / gutters on the territory. Therefore, the main elements of the system include:
- gutters, plugs and fittings;
- funnels, downpipes, pipe holders;
- water intakes (under the grate on the porch, under the drainpipes);
- trays, gutters;
- sand traps, sewer pipes, fittings.
For laying underground, it is recommended to use metal-plastic pipes: they have a long service life, are reliable and affordable. Downpipes are usually made of steel and coated with protective paint. Trash boxes, trays and gutters can be made of concrete, plastic, steel.
How to make a storm drain without errors?
First of all, the owner must draw up a detailed diagram on which the locations of the elements will be indicated. Additionally, you need to calculate the required number of pipes, sand traps, water intakes. Next, the installation of the storm sewer is carried out according to the following instructions:
- Dig trenches for storm water inlets, sand traps and pipes.
- Prepare a cushion of rubble, taking into account the slope of the pipes towards the collector or to another place of water drainage.
- Lay geotextiles along the trenches to protect pipes from freezing.
- Carry out the installation of storm water inlets, laying pipes, buried gutters. Check the quality of the connection of the elements.
- Wrap the pipes with geotextiles. Fill crushed stone into trenches (excluding its getting into storm water inlets, sand traps and gutters).
- Cover the rubble above the pipes with sand / earth. Install grids above the gutters and gutters to prevent debris from entering the compartments. Connect the outlet pipe to the manifold or simply lead it off the site.
In order for the finished system to cope with the assigned tasks, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the region when choosing elements. For areas where rain is common throughout the year, it is recommended to use oversized drainage components. Otherwise, problems with water drainage may arise.
Puddles that appear after rain are a fairly common occurrence, but few people think that it is quite dangerous for owners of private houses, since it can lead to flooding of the building and destruction of its supports.
To avoid unpleasant consequences, experts recommend equipping storm sewers. How to do this will be discussed in this article.
Features and purpose
Storm or, as it is often called, rainwater drainage is a system of water pipes, as well as filters and various devices used to effectively remove excess moisture from the local area. This is the main task of the stormwater drainage, but the set of functions is not limited to drainage:
- with the help of a rainfall system, it is possible to organize watering of a garden and a vegetable garden in a personal plot, the positive effect of melt water on the growth and development of plants is known to every summer resident;
- increasing the durability of the building and improving the strength and strength of its supports - this is due to the fact that rainwater drainage excludes excessive flooding of the foundation, and in addition, prevents the development of fungus and mold;
- high-quality filtration of water and its purification from sand and other types of impurities;
- maintaining the integrity of paving slabs and asphalt pavements, which are often destroyed by gushing water jets;
- minimizing the risk of water inflow into the basement;
- complete elimination of the formation of puddles and mud on the site after rain.
Storm sewer components
The device of rainwater drainage in a private house and in the country presupposes the presence of some constituent elements in its structure.
Well
In previous years, it was believed that it must certainly be large, but modern industry offers wells of various volumes, the choice of which is determined by the dimensions of the roof, the size of the site and the average rainfall in a particular region. As a rule, wells are made of concrete rings, and the lower ring must be equipped with a bottom - this is exactly what distinguishes simple wells from storm ones.
Plastic wells can also be used to create an efficient rainwater drainage system. They are buried to the required depth, set on a concrete pad and chained with strong chains to avoid floating.
Plastic containers are good because they are completely sealed, unlike designs assembled from rings.
Manhole over the well
Hatches can be made of various materials - rubber, plastic or metal, the choice here depends only on the personal preferences of the homeowner. Regardless of what composition is used, the well should be dug in so that the upper edge of its cover is 15-20 cm below the ground surface.
Under the installation of the hatch, a mouth of brick is often laid out, this allows you to plant a lawn or flowers on top in such a way that the site does not stand out from the rest of the landings.
However, many people purchase a ready-made cover with a hatch. In this case, the soil is covered with a thinner layer - only 4-5 cm, however, the lawn will differ in density from the rest of the areas, drawing attention to what is located under it. Most often, hatches are produced in black. However, you can also find red and yellow versions on sale.
Point storm water inlets
These are small-sized reservoirs, which are fixed in places of the greatest accumulation of precipitation, for example, under drainpipes and in the lowest parts of the yard. They are made of concrete or plastic, and the former are often used to equip deep storm sewers. In this case, they are mounted on top of each other, achieving the required height. However, more recently, built-on plastic storm inlets have appeared on sale.
Sand traps
These are devices that are used to accumulate settling sand and other heavy inclusions. Most often they are made of plastic, they are low cost, but at the same time exhibit extremely high performance characteristics. Trash boxes are usually mounted at a certain distance from each other.
Such devices need periodic cleaning, it is much easier and faster to do this than to clean the entire drainage system.
Lattice
The grates are installed so that the water leaves as much as possible. There are the following lattice options:
- cast iron- reliable and durable products, however, the paint on them lasts no more than 3 years, significantly reducing the overall aesthetics of the structure;
- steel- the cheapest option, but the lowest quality - steel is prone to corrosion, therefore, even after 1-2 years, such gratings begin to rust;
- aluminum- not pure metal is used here, but its alloys, such options are most preferable, since they differ in strength and attractive design, but their cost is also quite high.
Pipes
Not a single storm drain is complete without pipes, as a rule, products made of red polyethylene are used. They have smooth walls, which significantly improves their throughput. However, you can stop at cast iron or asbestos options, they can also work smoothly for a long time, providing an effective drain.
The diameter of the pipes largely depends on the general branching of the system, but it must be borne in mind that it should not be less than 15 cm, it is optimal if the diameter is larger.
Revision wells
These are small-sized wells made of plastic or concrete; they are installed in cases where the pipeline has a rather long length or numerous branches. They are used to clean pipes in case of blockages.
It should be noted that not every rainwater drain necessarily contains all these components, however, it is possible to build an effective system of any complexity from them.
Types of storm sewers
There are several main types of storm sewers installed in private houses.
Open
This is a fairly simple system that can be equipped even on your own. It consists of a network of surface gutters, into which water enters through drainpipes, and from there it enters special reservoirs or the general sewage system.
The gutters are made of metal, plastic or concrete, they are covered from above with gratings that protect them from the ingress of large debris, and in addition, they perform a decorative function.
Such a system in a private house can have a fairly large coverage; excess moisture is collected from it from sidewalks, garden paths and other types of sites.
Closed
This type of stormwater is also called point, in this case all water intakes are located underground. The mechanism of their action is simple: water, flowing down pipes from the roofs, enters special storm water inlets, and already moves along them into underground channels, from where it is discharged outside the site.
Mixed
This system assumes the simultaneous use of open and closed elements, this method is used when it is necessary to build an effective drainage system in a limited budget.
Drainage types
Quite often, in cottages and private houses, several drainage options are equipped at once: sewer, drainage and stormwater. As a rule, they are located close to each other around the site and run parallel.
Quite often, the owners of the site have a natural desire to save money and combine the storm drain with elements of other types of drainage, for example, to use a ready-made well. However, this should not be done, since during heavy rain, the liquid enters the well rather quickly, the average flow rate is 10 cubic meters per hour.
In this case, the well may overflow, and if it is combined with the sewer, then the water will begin to flow into the sewer pipes. In this case, of course, she will not be able to rise above the ground level, however, you will not be able to lower anything either, since everything will be in the plumbing. In addition, after lowering the water level, large and small debris will remain inside the system, which can significantly impair the effective operation of the entire drainage system, and it will have to be cleaned regularly, you must agree, it is not a pleasant experience.
The situation is much worse if the discharges go into the drainage well. If, during a prolonged rainstorm, moisture enters the drainage system under high pressure, then as the pipes fill, it simply falls out under the foundation and begins to wash it away. It is not worth talking about the consequences, there are other troubles, which include siltation of the drainage pipeline.
It is impossible to clean such pipes; they must be changed completely.
The conclusion can be made very simple: the storm drain in the house should have its own well, and quite spacious. However, if not far from the site there is an exit to a pond, lake or river, then the arrangement of the well can be neglected.
Design and preparation
When it comes to the drainage system, it is very important to first draw up a drawing, plans and design diagrams, otherwise it will be just "money down the drain." If the system does not work effectively, then you should not even take up its arrangement, and if the stormwater is too powerful, then it will "eat" too much money.
In order to make calculations as accurately as possible and draw up an effective project, the following data are required:
- the average amount of precipitation in a given area (they can be found in SNiP 2.04.03-85);
- frequency of precipitation;
- the size of the snow cover;
- drainage area;
- roof area;
- physical and mechanical parameters of the soil;
- location of underground utilities;
- calculated wastewater volumes.
Q Is the amount of moisture that the system must remove;
q20- the intensity of precipitation (it is different for each area);
F- surface area from which it is planned to remove water;
TO- the correction factor, which depends on the material of the surface of the site, it is:
- for crushed stone - 0.4;
- for concreted areas 0 0.85;
- for asphalt - 0.95;
- for roofs - 1.0.
The resulting value is correlated with SNiPs and the diameter of the pipeline is determined, which is necessary for optimal drainage.
Trays and pipes are dug in at a depth at which they are standardly carried out in each area, their exact value can be found in construction companies or from neighbors who have already equipped a storm drain on their site. As a rule, in central Russia, the laying depth is 0.3 meters if the diameter of the pipeline does not exceed 50 cm.Large trays and pipes are buried to a depth of 70 cm.
Often, the high cost of excavation leads to the fact that customers ask not to go deep into the ground - and in general it is quite justified, since there is no point in closing pipes too far. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection tanks below the level of seasonal freezing, as required by the existing GOSTs. They can be placed higher, but previously insulated with insulating material, for example, geotextile.
Reducing the level of deepening significantly reduces the cost of installation work.
But the requirements governing the minimum slope of the stormwater should not be neglected. GOST establishes the following standards:
- for pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, the angle of inclination should be 0.008 mm / m;
- for pipes with a cross section of 20 cm - 0.007 mm / m.
The angle of inclination may vary depending on the characteristics of the site. So, at the point where the pipe is connected to the storm water inlet, it is necessary to increase the flow rate of gravity-flowing water, therefore, the maximum allowable angle of 0.02 mm / m should be formed.
But in front of the sand traps, the flow rate should, on the contrary, decrease, otherwise suspended particles will not be able to settle, so the angle of inclination should be minimal.
Construction and installation
The storm drainage system is equipped according to its own technology, its laying is in many ways similar to the principle of conducting ordinary sewer pipelines, but if there are no drains in the house, then the installation should be started from them.
Roofing construction
It is necessary to make special holes in the roof ceilings, which will be used for storm water inlets. After all devices are installed and fixed to the bituminous mastic, the joints and abutments should be treated with a sealant. Next, drain pipes and risers are installed, which are fixed to the facade of a private house with clamps.
If an open system is being built, then trays should be installed, and if the future stormwater is point-like, then branch pipes will need to be laid.
Ground part
In accordance with the outlined plans, which are drawn up taking into account all existing angles of inclination of the terrain and the depth of the canals adopted in each specific region, it is necessary to dig a trench. Let's consider the sequence of actions.
- The bottom of the dug trench must be carefully tamped, all stones that were encountered during excavation should be removed, and the pits formed after them must be covered with soil.
- The bottom of the trench is covered with sand, as a rule, the thickness of the sand cushion is approximately 20 cm.
- A pit is dug to install a collector well. For the collector itself, you can purchase a ready-made plastic container, but you can build it yourself - for this you need to install the formwork and fill it with a concrete solution.
- In the ditches, compacted and reinforced with sand cushions, pipes are fastened, which are connected to each other using fittings.
- It is necessary to include inspection wells in the storm drain branches with a total length of more than 10 meters, and sand traps are mounted at the junction of the receivers and the pipeline. All these devices must be connected in a common circuit, and the joints are sealed without fail.
- Before the final backfilling of the trench, it is necessary to test the system for strength; for this, water is poured into the water intake, if the pipes leak, then it is necessary to identify and eliminate the leak.
- If no weak points in the pipeline are found, then it is necessary to thoroughly fill the trench with soil, and equip all gutters and trays with cast iron and plastic gratings.
The installation of an open system is generally not a problem at all, since the water inlet channels can be installed easier and faster. They are sold as independent elements, which are quite simply assembled into a single chain using a thin nylon cord that forms the required drain angle.
Timely arrangement of storm sewers will significantly extend the life of building structures, exclude the occurrence of dirt and slush and prevent decay of plant roots.
The simplest storm drain can be easily equipped by the owner of the site himself without the use of third-party specialists, but even when contacting professionals, it will not hurt to get acquainted with the features of the sewage system and the specifics of its device, since the owner will periodically have to repair and clean the system as it is used.
For more information on how to install a storm sewer, see the next video.