What to insulate a house from the log from the inside. Internal warming of a log house

One of the advantages of the log houses are their high heat saving characteristics.

However, over time, as a result of the shrinkage of the cuts of a cut between the logs, the gaps appear, the insulation between the crowns of the church loses its properties and becomes cooler in the building.

In the climatic zone with harsh winters, there is a need for insulation of houses constructed from logs with a diameter of 180 mm and less.

In this article, we will tell you how to insulate the log house outside and inside, which building materials will suit this.

Features of the warming of log houses

Features of the insulation of houses from the rounded log are due to the properties of wood.

Wooden logs give a shrink on 6 - 8% during the first half of the year, so warming work should not be started earlier than a year after the completion of construction.
Since new wooden houses keep warm well, there is no need for a rush

Wooden walls breathe. Depending on the season and weather conditions, the moisture of wood changes, so the logs must be ventilated. If the surface of the walls to close with a steamproof material, excessive moisture has nowhere to go and the logs will begin to rot

Log buildings have an attractive appearance, so many homeowners do not want to worsen him, insulating facades.
Internal insulation is less efficient, but subject to certain rules.

Heater for Srub

The insulation of wood structures is subject to the main requirement: they must be vapor permeable.

This requirement is satisfied with the fibrous materials, the most common among which is mineral wool.

Mineral wool is made of fiberglass, slags and rocks.

Fibers are fastened with organic binders and soaked with water-repellent compositions.

Glass gaming is inconvenient in installation, because it has spiny fibers
Shelotte has acidity and with increasing moisture, aggressive substances
Stone wool devoid of deficiencies, with the exception of common fibrous materials for all

Mineral wool has the following characteristics:

Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.038 - 0.053 W / MHK
Sound absorption coefficient - 0.95
Density - 75 - 200 kg / cube.
Compression Strength - 0.04 - 0.06 MPa
Parry permeability - 0.49-0.60 mg / (m × h × pa)
Maximum operating temperature - more than 800 degrees

The following grades of mineral wool are used in construction (the figure in the designation corresponds to the density of the material):

P-75 - for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces without load on the insulation (inter-storey floors between lags)
P-125 - for thermal insulation of inclined and vertical surfaces without load on the insulation (roofing and walls)
PJ-175 and PPH-200 - for thermal insulation of any surfaces with a load on the insulation (floors with cement screed and flat roofs)

For the insulation of houses, the stone wool P-125 is optimally suitable.

Warming of log houses

To perform high-quality thermal insulation at home, you need to warm all the surfaces in contact with the weighing medium.

These include:

Window and doorways
Roof
Walls

Works should be started from the cavity of the seams between the crowns of the church.

How to conduct warming house warming with your own hands

Walls canopate from the street and inside. This uses jute and synthetic tape insulation or moss. Next, insulate the openings, floors and roofs. Often this happens enough. If not, proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

How to insulate the log house outside?

Warming on the outside of the facade is performed as follows:

To the walls horizontally with a step, a pair of centimeters less width of mineral wool plates, bruise bars.
Their width should be slightly more than the thickness of the insulation layer
Between the bars of the vespers insert plates. Laying is carried out at least two layers with jogging
The insulation for a wooden house outside is closed with windproof membrane.
This film material protects mineral wool from moisture, but passes a pair of a layer of insulation outward. So that the membrane worked correctly, it is necessary to inspire the rough side
Brusses nourish a vertical crate for fastening finishing materials. Thus, there is a ventilation gap to ventilating walls and insulation between the layer of thermal insulation and external trim.
Finishing materials are fixed to the crate.
It can be lining, brusal imitation or a house block

Internal warming of a log house

Since wood is a good heat insulator, when insulating from the inside, the dew point (the point with the temperature of the water freezing, in which condensate is formed) is rarely shifted beyond the walls.

Nevertheless, there will be no need for moisture out of moisture from the cut.

For this purpose, specialists are recommended to leave the ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation of at least 2 cm. If air circulation is provided in the ventilation gap, then the warming of a church from the inside is possible with the use of playproof materials - foam and others.

Insulation is performed as follows:

To ensure the gap to the walls nourish a vertical wooden crate
The membrane is fixed on top
In a step, slightly smaller widths of the insulation, mount a counter-crate
Between her bars in several layers insert plates of mineral wool or foam
Pleasure vapor barrier film
The walls are trimmed with finishing materials - clapboard, plasterboard, chipboard, etc.

It is much easier to the technology of insulation of walls by foam.

This roll material is made of foamed polyester, on one side of the coated foil. Penofol is absolutely not afraid of moisture, then does not require paro - waterproofing.

Penofole bands are attached to the rails, providing ventilation gap, foil towards the room. The laying of the material is made by the pectorist of 10 cm. The joints are sealed with construction tape. Between the insulation and finishing materials should be a clearance of 2 cm.

The modern building materials market allows you to choose insulation for outdoor walls of a wooden house for every taste.

In addition to the described materials for internal insulation, an OSP, sprayed thermal insulation, etc. is used, etc.

But the best insulation for wooden houses remains stone wool.

How to isolate wooden house outside

Many of us in the construction of a house of a tree I believe that this problem is like an external insulation magazine, is a durable, cheap and, most importantly, will not be an additional inconvenience or even harming the tenants themselves.

It is necessary that not all insulating materials are suitable for certain environmental requirements, durability, thermal protection and moisture consumption.

Why is it necessary to isolate a frame?

The wooden wooden house house is very special in aesthetics and retains warmth well enough.

However, with a temporary reduction and between logs of the inter-seam, a cutout is formed, which is dangerous not only because it will miss the cold, but also keeps the dangerous moisture that affects the life of a tree.

In addition, many of us live in rather complex climatic conditions, so the heating of the frame outside is simply necessary to maintain the optimal microclimate in the house.

Proper insulation of the house of wood in the future will keep not a small coolant.

What is important to know about the isolation of the house?

After creating the frame, the shrinkage process begins from 10 to 24 months.

The fact is that during this period, the forests were in contact with humidity, hot summer, on the contrary, they dry out, which contributes to the change in their height, the appearance of cracks in diaries outside and gaps between them.

In this regard, the work on the outer insulation may begin in less than a year or a year and a half.

It is also important to understand that the moisture content in the wood varies depending on the external factors (season, time) and that the chalet has used ventilation for a long time.

In no case can not be isolated with impenetrable materials, because moisture cannot go, and the frame will start rot.

Heat insulation for a wooden house

As we already understood, the main requirement of the insulating material is air permeability.

As an external isolation of logs, they are mainly used:

Mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Extruded foamed polystyrene;
Foam heater;
Polyurethane foam.

In any case, what material you did not choose, remember that outside the thermal insulation should be an air layer against an inverted material.

This will avoid excessive moistening and improving part of future ventilation.

Additional information and video tips:

In any case, the process of home heating requires the acquisition of the following tools and details:

Anchor bolts;
Waterproofing film;
Antifungal solution;
Self-tapping screws;
Plumb Bob;
Level;
Construction coupling.

Mineral wool heaters

This insulation type is used to heat the frame outside most often.

It is non-toxic and does not grieve, but has many flaws.

When we are made of fiberglass and slag wool, then such materials (containing fine particles of iron) can be oxidized and corroded even with high humidity and, thus choosing them as a heater, good protection against water from entering water.

Perform insulation on the outside of the house with mineral wool with good water repellent and on both sides.

Otherwise, the smallest humidity on the block of such isolation can lead to a failure and remove the properties of the heat retention.

Builders enjoy great respect for stone builders, making up almost 95% of basalt, which means that it is practically not affected by moisture and fire.

The house, isolated blocks from stone wool, is better protected from changes in temperature, strong frost or heat.

In addition, the stones have the best characteristics of sound absorption than their opponents.

Styrofoam

No less popular material for framework isolation is polystyrene. This is usually done in the leaves per meter, and the thickness is often different - from 20 to 30 mm.

The use of foam in the process of heating the frame is very convenient due to its lightness and the comfort of cutting.

It also attracts the fact that it is fully safe for human health, but only up to 75 degrees Celsius.

After that, foam extracts phenolic pairs, which is very harmful to humans.

The main disadvantage of such a heater is good burnout, but for a wooden house it can be very dangerous.

Extruded foamed polystyrene

This may be the best of the external insulating materials described above.

It looks like a polystyrene, it consists of polystyrene, but its production technology is completely different.

Extruded polystyrene (EPS) extruded.

Granules are first dissolved and a homogeneous viscous mass is obtained, which, in obtaining certain chemical additives, becomes material with strong intermolecular bonds.

Consequently, EP has the following advantages:

Fully adapted Russian climate due to frost resistance and not susceptibility to rot;
Resistant to the strongest temperature change;
Durability of the material (the life expectancy of up to 50 years in the open state);
Simple installation;
Democratic price, although more expensive than plastic foam;
Without additional waterproofing it is possible;
Ecological composition;
Absolute protection against moisture (this material does not absorb water, even if it is simply added to the bath).

Isolation isolated foam

This is a relatively new type of insulation in the design, which in itself is a layer of polyethylene foam on an aluminum-based (on the one hand and on both sides).

The heat insulating material, isolated foam, retains heat one and a half times better than polystyrene and mineral wool.

It weighs a little, and its installation does not create any additional problems.

The only one, but a serious tint of such a heater is the absolute counterancy and gas-tightness, which makes it suitable for heating the frame outside.

After using such a heater, you can make a "greenhouse" house, where microclimate and ventilation will be broken.

Polyurethane foam

This insulation is applied to the surface in the form of a foam using certain cylinders, and after drying it is formed a strong layer, which repeats the wall shape.

His advantage at speeds, in the end, does not need to be sent and follow the process of fixing blocks, as with all other types.

However, the use of polyurethane foam requires special equipment, which significantly increases the cost of such isolation.

The price is only negative, otherwise it does not have the same.

Think about polyurethane foam:

It easily lies and tightly lying on any surface;
Fills all cracks and cracks in magazines or magazines;
Protects against corrosion (for example, iron frame at home);
Fast and simple installation;
Mold is stable, rotten, not suitable for insects or rodents;
Long service life.

output

Information in this article will help you make the right solution and choose the best material as an external insulation for your home.

The main thing, remember that it depends on it to 40% of heat in the room, as well as comfort and comfort of life.

Heated angles

Freezing of angles - the inconvenience, with which you can encounter tenants Khrushchev as slab or stone buildings and country houses, even if they are made of wood, albeit stone.

Fortunately, this serious problem can be solved by your own.

Let's talk about how to deal with cold corners.

Thermal insulation in practice and in theory

Due to cold bridges, the corners are the most vulnerable part of almost every home. These parts of the structural design increased the thermal conductivity.

Each vertical or horizontal angle is a geometric cold bridge. If the construction supplier is allowed - tightly sealed seams, gaps in concrete, insufficient solution between the brick, the absence of the necessary isolation is not to avoid problems.

Where there is a cold, the surface temperature of the wall in winter can fall below the dew point and maintain room temperature indoors.

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In such spaces, due to the temperature difference formed in the form of condensate, which leads to form form, and when it is frozen, it turns into ice crystals.

The most logical solution in this case is the installation of insulation from the inside of the wall.

But each such isolation is essentially identical to the wall from heat and cold.

The use of the heater can further aggravate the situation, since it will move the dew point to the inner surface of the wall. For example, if you warm the foundation in the winter.

As a result, the cold air from the road will freeze, because heat from the apartment cannot penetrate the insulation.

Moisturizing and freezing continues, the heater becomes unsuitable and stops performing its functions.

In addition, ice crystals will continue to destroy the wall material, which will further increase cold bridges.

How to warm up the corners of the house?

The perfect way to solve the problem is the isolation of the entire facade outside and tightly compacted gasket. Have a house that will be renovated very realistic, but in an apartment building you will have to seek help from the management company.

But do not give up.

And in a separate apartment you can get a good result. First you must remove the wallpaper. If there are no visible cracks, the walls are recorded by a hammer, where there are emptiness, the sound will be deaf. Then remove the plaster on top of the open cavities and thoroughly dry the angle.

If there is a mold, which is necessarily processed by special antifungal agents.

Sometimes mold damage is so great that it is necessary to use acid, fire, fan, or surface grinding.

All cracks and emptiness are filled with foam or foam. This will prevent moisture from entering the room, even if there are cracks in the outer wall. And finally, clean the remnants of foam and intervene in the angle.

Work is best done in the warm season to completely get rid of moisture and mold in the room.

In case of detection of very large cavities, they do not need to fill in mineral wool or pasta, since these materials contribute to the accumulation of moisture.

It is better to use all the same prefabricated foams. It is resistant to moisture, not subject to rotting and mold, has high adhesive properties, does not lose quality when freezing.

Modern thermal insulation

Today, manufacturers offer various materials that greatly facilitate the repair process and bring it to a qualitatively new level.

For example, special thermal insulation materials are light mixtures in which microscopic polystyrene granules or light natural aggregates are used instead of sand.

This type of plaster is often easier than usual, it is well used and replaced.

Due to the presence of air, the hot mixture has high vapor permeability, regulates condensation and provides a healthy internal microclimate.

The thermal layers of 50 mm for the effect of thermal insulation are equivalent to laying in one and a half or two bricks or two centimeter layers of polystyrene foam, but this is not enough.

Recently, new materials produced by various manufacturers under different brands are produced on the market, but combining them with the common name "Liquid thermal insulation".

For such problem areas, it is indispensable as freezing in the corner.

An insulating suspension similar to color consists of hollow microspheres that effectively reflect thermal radiation.

The microspheres are suspended in the binding composition of synthetic rubber or acrylic polymers, antifungal and anti-corrosion additives and color pigments.

Such a composition gives the current thermal insulation properties of water resistance, flexibility, lightness and power, but this is definitely an advertising trick.

But do not go to the current isolation, the trust of basalt.

The thermal conductivity of liquid thermal insulators is significantly lower than for conventional heaters. Several layers of this color can replace 5-10 cm polyurethane foam or a thickness of a thickness of 10 cm with a thickness of 10 cm, according to manufacturers, but often it is stupid.

It is used almost on all surfaces - concrete, brick, tree, because it has excellent adhesion, non-toxic, does not contain harmful connections and painted in any color (this is just a color).

In the home zone, liquid thermal insulation is applied in any suitable method, and then after drying is covered by any final material.

Heat insulation of a wooden house with their own hands: step-by-step instructions

This is not only a well-known architectural method, but also the method of additional heating.

You can use interesting design solutions. For example, in the corner of the ceiling, install plasterboard with backlit from ordinary light bulbs.

Working lamps heat the air inside the design, pushing the dew in the wall.

You can use the services of companies that offer heat out when buying a house or expensive apartment.

Experts will help to detect all heat leaks and determine whether construction workers can be eliminated.

It can protect the owners from a number of problems related to the operation of the house and save considerable resources.

According to the construction of wooden houses, the corners at the corners were secured by special cutting "locks" with additional built-in natural insulation.

It safely protects the structure from freezing.

Velving cottages in a modern building are very popular. Their natural environmental compatibility, low cost and excellent performance attract many developers.

How to isolate a wooden house outside?

Wooden Frame External Isolation

Thermal insulation of wooden houses is usually performed in a year or 2 years after the construction is completed when the frame is complete. First, work on sealing is performed: all blowing prints must be fixed in the walls, ceiling, flooring, through which cold air goes, and heat evaporates outside.

Morning, towed fibers, hemp and other heaters of natural and synthetic origin are used as sealing materials.

All gaps are tightly closed and blocked, the processed compounds and interference zones are covered with a special protective solution or a foam team.

In addition, the ventilated design of the facade can be implemented outside to isolate a wooden house.

The main advantage of this design is that the tree continues to cause excessive moisture and "breathing". Initially, the surface of the tree is protected from mold and fire, thereby inhibiting anti-epires and antiseptics.

In addition, the lining panel is made taking into account the insulation of mineral wool and the membrane for superfusion.

It is necessary to ensure the insulation of the mineral wool carriage so as not to soften or form the plug, otherwise the thermal insulation and sealing of the frame will be unreliable.

And finally, to safely isolate the house outside, the lateral side is attached to the box.

Internal isolation of a wooden frame

The heating of a private wooden house from the inside usually begins at windows, because it is with a significant heat loss.

The optimal solution is to install a wooden frame with double glazing windows or a plastic profile. Internal log registration is carried out using VilaTerm technology. The compounds and rays between the rays are clogged with acrylic rubber seals and sealants (Vilaterm), which significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the seams. Walls inside rooms are covered with lining, block, decorative tile or stones.

Thus, your home will be effectively protected from humidity and cold.

Due to the insulation of the floor in a wooden house, most often you can do with the usual carpet.

If there is an obvious permeability in the corners and at contact with the walls, they can be treated with special sealants or make a castle. The ceiling heating in a wooden house is made with a coating with a thickness of mineral wool 14-15 cm with additional ceilings in the corners and joints. Wet and swollen places are sealed by patch or ribbon on a rubber basis.

New methods of heating seams have recently appeared in wooden houses.

Thus, an effective method of sealing cracks and cracks acrylic rubber is considered. This tool allows to significantly reduce the cost of heating rooms and simply associate - a syringe or a spatula for construction directly to interplanetary seams and cracks.

Where to order isolation logs from logs?

If you want to order isolation of a wooden house in Kazan, and reliability, durability and tightness of the connections are important for you, then it is best to trust this process to experienced specialists.

Vkraske.com will always help you isolate the structure with minimal cost, beautiful and timely. Your house will be warm!

Despite the favorable climate, wood structures require additional insulation, since in the most severe frosts can be very used on electricity. Among the modern tenants, the country house from the massif is a luxury. It has long been our ancestors engaged in the construction of such structures. In order for such a house to be cozy, and it was comfortable to live, it is, of course, you need competently. To do this, you need to conduct the outer insulation of wooden walls. As a rule, structures from such material have many flaws. One of them is an increased heat loss during the cold season.

This problem does not bypass any tenant, so it will be described here about how to spend high-quality insulation of an old wooden house.

Choose insulation

The main place of heat loss is the roof. From this place there are more than 40% of all heat from a wooden house. In second place there are window openings, from where up to 30% of heat leave, so you also need to warm the windows in a wooden house. Next go walls and doors of a wooden structure. The main task of the inhabitants is to patch all cracks and holes in the walls. As you know, you need to think about the warming of a wooden house even in the process of its construction. Otherwise, it will be difficult to make high-quality warming of the village house. These are the materials that are best suited in order to warm the seams of a wooden house:

excellent material is jute. It is a universal insulating material. Such a name happened from the name of the popular Jute Plant. It is made from this plant, having previously treated it. This is the best insulation for wooden outer walls. The components include lignin, as it does not rot;
the tape panel is an advanced flax fiber, in which the developers completely excluded the presence of flax, wood sawdust and plant particles. This material is beneficial to apply for sealing large gaps that are formed in the walls. The insulation of the old wooden house is best done with this material;
linen felt is very popular, which consists of non-woven fibers. It can be obtained after the process of needlecaming with the help of filaments of linen material, or use other technologies.

The thickness directly depends on the design of the housing walls.

If the hosts are planned to use glued or cylinder bars, then the thickness of the bar with a warmed interlayer will have about 5-10 millimeters.

It all depends on climate. Walls performed from chopped logs will have a thickness of 15 millimeters.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house

In order to get more efficiency, you should perform repair work on the insulation of a wooden house. This may be needed if the dwelling is located in a cold climate, where the low temperature negatively affects the walls of the house. Warming of an old wooden house outside is a layer of heat insulating material that is installed on a special design from the rails. Insulation work should be carried out after the walls of housing gave shrinkage and the warm season has come. Otherwise, insulating material may be poorly installed. It is also possible to peel off from the base of the walls due to excessive temperature drop. Therefore, it should be warmed with a wooden house from the inside.

But this method of insulation is not ideal, therefore it has several drawbacks:

the walls of the houses that are located in front of the insulation are constantly in the field of negative effects of minus temperatures, as a result of which the wood begins to give cracks, which will negatively affect the integrity of the entire structure, so it will be not bad to warm the corners of the wooden house;
condensate will be formed between the log wall, which will entail the appearance of mold;
significantly decreases area, which is suitable for use, so you need to purchase a heater for wooden walls outside;
the interior of the house, which, by nature, is a unique creation.

The quality of insulation of the structures of the tree is lost due to the lack of appropriate. This may occur due to excessive air moisture, therefore, the insulation of an old wooden house outside should be carried out according to all the rules by choosing the best insulation for wooden walls. As a result, drops of moisture will be formed inside the housing on the walls, which will also negatively affect the integrity of the walls.

Because of the wrong insulation of the external surfaces of the moisture walls, it will fall insulated insulating material, which will cause increased moisture indoors.

Wood floor insulation material should also comply with all standards.

In such a tedious process, as the insulation of the old wooden house outside, it is best to use a system with high-quality air layer, which is intended for additional ventilation.

The insulation for wooden walls outside will be the key to comfort in the house. Thanks to this, the moisture will be lingering and not to spoil the insulating material.

This design will retain the dry wall of the walls of the wooden house, so they will not give cracks. Also, heat shield will be maintained at a high level if the owners will choose a high-quality insulation for wooden walls outside. In the absence of such an air layer, the walls will gain moisture, which will cause the appearance of mold in the house. In the end, you should also warm the windows in a wooden house.
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Thoughtful and properly designed, wooden houses show excellent performance and comfort. However, the buildings erected without complying with proper requirements for thermal protection and internal heat circulation often require adoption of additional measures, so it is important to know how the log house can be insulated outside.

What problems arise in wooden houses over time

Any building is not forever. Over time, the wooden house can reduce heat conservation indicators.

Arise:

cracking of structural elements;
destruction of a tree due to insect attacks, rot;
slice due to drying material and changes in the geometric dimensions of wall elements.

It is worth noting that modern projects maximize the impact of time and during construction all measures are applied to guarantee long-term wood life. But the old houses fully suffer from the destruction caused by long-term operation.
Over time in a wooden house there are light drafts, nondes on the walls, incorrect air flows from the heating zones. As a result, the structure becomes not comfortable, especially in the winter months. The costs of heating, in addition, with its improper design - the presence of drafts cannot be defeated. The best way to return comfort is insulation of walls outside.

What general actions need to be carried out before insulation

To achieve maximum results when applying any means of insulation, you need to hold a number of necessary work. The list is as follows:

carefully check the outdoor surface of the walls. Remove all materials from them that prevent steam circulation;
if possible, remove damaged zones damaged by rot;
close noticeable damage, where it is necessary - to impose marks;
carefully legitture all the gaps;
conduct treatment with antibacterial and preventing relevance by means. It is fairly cheap to use saline based formulations.

Choosing a specific heat insulator for the construction of wood wall insulation, it should be remembered that it must match his task, namely:

provide vapor permeability not lower than the tree;
not to accumulate moisture;
do not serve as a medium for reproducing fungus;
do not burn, pass the air;
to be loose or plastic enough to ensure adjacent to the wall of the logs.

For such a list of requirements it is easy to understand that for wooden walls does not fit:

foam and extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam, assembly construction foam;
sealants of any class if the technology of a wet facade is used.

Ideally apply, especially if the ventilated structures are mounted:

in the role of sheet materials - eco-water and mineral wool, both classic glass-based and basalt, slag;
in the role of flowing materials, which will need a frame with an outer wall - special colors-granules or clayzit, eclaw and so on.

Correctly choosing materials to create wall insulation, you can guarantee not only a good level of comfort inside, but also to provide a long service of the houses at home and the best operating conditions of wooden structures.

Different ways of wood insulation of a wooden house

Let us dwell on the available ways that the wooden house can be improved correctly. Modern techniques allow you to properly insulate the wooden house and ensure the desired level of comfort. In this case, insulation will serve for a long time, and the walls will have a pleasant and neat appearance.

The method of insulation of the building outside has a number of advantages:

insulation takes on temperature fluctuations, compensates for them. As a result, the walls have a longer service life, as they are less destroyed, are not subjected to significant moisture differences, temperature, the degree of mechanical stresses is reduced;
the user can choose the view of the facade that he likes, so insulation can become a form of design design;
the insulation of the walls outside does not affect the inner space of the house, repair will not be required, is not limited to the applied inside the finish;
room configuration does not change;
while the outdoor insulation of the walls is performed, you can not hurry. Inside the house no changes occur, the former comfort and comfort remains.

As a result of the finishes of external facades, it is very noticeable to change the indicators of the conservation of heat, ensuring comfort of living, which is very important for old wooden houses.

Ventilated facade

Modern insulation capable of providing the best performance as in terms of heat conservation and characteristics of durability and the desired appearance - a ventilated facade system, which is a rather complicated, multilayer design. Consider the creation of such thermal protection in more detail, since it is universal, gives a lot of advantages and therefore - most often used by the owners of wooden houses.

The basic requirement that should be performed when creating a ventilated facade is to ensure the correct steam exchange. The insulation should not get wet. Therefore, the first layer creates vaporizolation, which is located between the insulation and the wall.

For a wooden house built from round logs, vaporizolation is not required, as a sufficient space is provided for air circulation. In buildings with a smooth wall, vaporizolation is necessary, therefore the thin doome of a polyethylene film is superimposed, the construction reinforced version is superimposed. You can also cover the wall with foamed polyethylene, which will additionally save heat.

The second stage is the frame of the frame for laying the insulation. This design of the planks, the distance between which should correspond to the dimensions of the material used, the recommended parameter is not more than 600 mm. At the same time, if mineral wool is used, it should be immediately remembered that it sends over time and therefore there should be not only vertical, but also horizontal crossbars in the frame.

After the stripes of the crates, the insulation is laid in it, and it should be not allowed to crack. If two layers of the insulation are used, the elements are arranged so that the joints between the internal are in the middle of the external.

Outside, insulation is covered with a special wind insulation layer. This is the so-called superdiffusion membrane, nonwoven textiles, which perfectly misses couples, but at the same time he holds water. The layer is neatly mounted, the joints of the elements are sampled by scotch.

After the installation of windscreens, the frame is selected, on which the external finish of the ventilated facade will be attached. These are a rake of a small thickness, 40-50 mm. Immediately, we note that there are many options for creating an external finish, some of which nominate the requirements for the insulation used and methods for installing the internal "layers" of the ventilated facade. The article discusses only simple, accessible types of external finishing.
On the outer frame you can put various decorative shields or materials. It can be:

vinyl siding, looking like a wooden shield;
cement stoves;
steel professional flooring;
block House, with which you can imitate the type of wall, folded from the logs.

In the simplest and more economical version, the Euro woman, plastic lining can be used. It all depends on the financial capabilities of the home owner or his work skills.

External insulation by the "Wet Facade" method

It is often used that the method is used when the insulation of the walls is made by attaching a layer of thermal insulator onto its surface. The external part is separated by the technology of the wet facade, as a result, the insulation consists of the following elements:

a layer of insulation that can be glued or mounted by dowels;
reinforcing grid;
multiple coating layers are usually formed from ready-made building mixtures.

If you perform similar insulation of walls professionally, it is required to ensure the quality of the external coating. Therefore, it will consist of a reinforcing layer, intermediate, which will provide a smooth solid surface, as well as decorative, which can be a relief finishing or coating of the "fur coat", which improves the heat conservation indicators.
A tile, decorative stone, artistic plaster, paint and other materials designed to provide the desired appearance of the walls can be used as the finishing layer of external insulation.

Conclusion

As you can see, even the most modern methods of insulation, which show excellent results, are not as complicated even for work with their own hands. However, it is worth remembering that when creating any class of finishes, you must not forget about the ventilation of the house and finishing the window zones, as there is an inevitable thickening of the walls of the wooden structure.

How to insulate any room? For example, the old wooden house? In what cases is it required? These questions are worried about many owners of such structures. Additional insulation is required when the walls of the building are not able to properly retain heat inside.

It is the layer of insulation material that it is able to securely protect the walls, extending their resource, from ultraviolet and moisture, and also to act as a barrier between the warm air from the inside of the house and the cold outside.

Preparing surface for insulation

During the preparation, often it is necessary to remove all the plaster or old insulation material so that in the end, the clean and flat wall of wood, blocks or bricks remain.

Polystyrene foam. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Warming up a wooden house when all work is carried out with their own hands, implies high-quality surface primer, for which the composition with deep penetration is used. In the presence of drops in the level (pits or hills), they need to be combined or smeared with a solution. Dust removed before work from the wall surface.

In advance, a complex of plumbs and lighthouses is created, which will continue to smoothly lay insulation by determining its outer edge. So layer of material will not interfere with the complex of finishing and facing work.

This is done by screwing the walls on top of the wall. These are tied in threads with loads and descend. Similarly, horizontal lines are made. They form a control grid for high-quality laying of the insulation.
Next follows the stage, the specificity of which depends on the type of material. For example, consider an option with expanded polystyrene.

Works with expanded polystyrene or extrudedpenopolistrol

Woodering of a wooden house with this material implies a certain sequence of work. At first, the control area is mounted at the bottom edge, by means of which the laid sheets are aligned. The polystyrene fixes is fixed on special glue by pressing sheets to the wall. The control grid will not make mistakes.

The second layer is fixed in the same way, but with offset of the Block on half of the sheet. Fixation is carried out by anchor attachments that are clogged in the center of the sheet and at its corners. As for window openings and angles of walls, at these points for fasteners, a metal corner is used for fasteners. For sizing seams between sheets, a reinforcing tape is used.

Next, extruded or ordinary polystyrene foam is covered with a reinforcing grid, after which it is plastered. This material is optimal for the insulation of concrete or brick walls. The only negative is low records of vapor permeability. And this will not allow the condensate from the surface of the walls of the old house. To solve the problem before starting work, the walls are recommended to carefully dry, and at the end - mount the ventilated facade.
The procedure for the insulation of different designs of the wooden house requires that at the end of this stage to the laid foam, no access remained and could not spoil rodents.

Internal work

At the moment there are different ways of performing work that depend on the materials used.

Warm seam

This scheme makes it possible to noticeably reduce the thermal conductivity of wall joints and seams. It is used when the decorative type decoration is not planned.

Laying is carried out directly between the bars of the structure through natural (linen rope, flank or pack) or synthetic (latex, acrylic, bitumen, silicone) sealants.

Work with mineral wool

For insulation, mats are used made of glass fiber, basalt (mineral) fiber or slag fiber. In such material, the excellent indicators of thermal insulation qualities, noise absorption and environmental purity. The problem is that he has a fibrous structure, and this contributes to the accumulation of water in it. The result - on the walls of the old house it is necessary to put the layers of hydro and vapor barrier.

Proceedings:

Training. This method is initially modified by the smelting of all defects, cracks and cracks, using synthetic sealant. Next, the surface is processed by antiseptic composition.

Obsek. This method of insulation of structures, in particular, a wooden house implies the need to mount the crate. First, the transverse case is fixed, which is stuffed from the metal profile across the logs and with a step in 80 cm. The framework of the counter tests is created in a similar way with the same step, but already along the logs. The design performs the function of providing ventilation, removal of excess steam and prevent the occurrence of condensate.

It is advisable to apply minvatu in mats, because this structure of the material gives it the opportunity to maintain thermal insulation properties even at large loads of mechanical nature. The mats are called by the Mospus between the elements of the crate with the maximum allowable width of the joints in 2 mm, which are subsequently stuck with a special tape.

Parosolation. To prevent its rupture due to the thermal expansion of Minvati, vaporizolation is stacked with the allowance and bills - this method is optimal.

Finish. This uses drywall, chipboard, lining or fiberboard. They are recorded directly to the profile or lags, and the thickness of the seams should be minimal.

The sequence of operations must be observed strictly.

Heat ceiling sawdust

Materials:

Prepared composition for insulation. Click on the photo to enlarge.

cement;
sawdust;
pergan - you can apply another insulator. It is sprinkled all over the entire ceiling area with a small breaking for side bends.

Cement mixture is used for work. The required amount of sawdust is calculated based on the optimal thickness of the warm ceiling in a wooden structure - twenty centimeters. To obtain a common cube, it is necessary to measure the surface area and divide five. The ratio of cement and water is 1 to 10, and water and sawdust - 1.5 to 10.
The insulation scheme intended for a wooden house presents certain criteria for chips:

age - from 1 year;
dryness;
size - too small will not work, as it takes more cement, which will worsen the performance indicators;
from sawdust should not proceed with a mold smell.

Technique laying composition

Order of work:

processing with your own hands of all wooden components by antiseptic;
laying sheet waterproofing to all overlap between floors;
mixing the mixture in these proportions;
uniform laying of the solution to overlapping;
tamping the heat insulating layer.

Works with floor

The insulation of the old structure, in particular, a wooden house may require the replacement of lags, as well as alteration of draft flooring, but not always.

Installation Lag.

If there are serious damage, any of the fundamental brusons requires its replacement. It takes a lot of time - at least a day.

Since the lags are flooded with concrete solution, the damaged timber will have to cut out of the thickness of the concrete. Next, it is necessary to expand the seating hole so that you can install a new lag with a cross section, similar to the fact that the remaining brusons.

The planting place for timber is prepared using the tower wrap or resin, and the lag is pre-treated with an antiseptic composition. Upon completion of the replacement, it is necessary to fix the timber in the mounting socket of gravel, to inspect the level and determine the cement and gravel with mortar. Then it remains only to wait for the mixture. This method will give the maximum effect.

Installation of rough floors

Woodering of a wooden house implies the creation of a rough floor. Initially, the shurupamina lags is fastened with a doom, which is created from the bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm and is stuck in parallel. Then the stuffing of black floor boards with a thickness of at least 20 and 200 mm width. Fixation occurs through simple nails, but so that they do not "entered" in the lags. The boards must be one thickness so that there are no windows in the coating, while the gaps between them are allowed in the amount of up to 1 cm.

The insulation of the seams of the black floor of a wooden house is carried out with a heat insulator.
All wooden elements (lags, a doomle, etc.) are recommended to be treated with special antiseptic compositions, as well as antipirens. These funds ("Sezheng", "Pinotex", "Physsta") are not too expensive, therefore it is not worth saving on their acquisition.

Laying waterproofing

In the process of insulation of wooden houses, it is necessary to use an exclusively membrane film that does not skip "upstairs". When installing, it is necessary to leave 10-15 m from each edge for smell, after which itch all the scotch with moisture-resistant characteristics.

Chistay Lags

These bruises cross section 50x150 mm or 75x150 mm (for rooms where heavy furniture will stand) are mounted in increments of 1 meter. Naturally, the 150 mm width limits the parameters of the insulation. Therefore, if laying a thicker layer of material is planned, the thickness of the lag should be greater.

Before installing new lag, it is required to mark the location of the draft, making the mark on the floor. The fixation of the chisty lag is carried out by long screws and a screwdriver with such a calculation so that the screws enter the lower lags. Between the fines and the wall, it is required to leave the lumen in 2-4 cm.

Staying insulation and installation of finishing

Directly on the membrane waterproofing, in the lumen between the lags, the insulation (Minvata, Pleeplex, foam, etc.) is stacked. A combination method is allowed, but the insulation of the seams carried out in a wooden house must be implemented. No additional fixation is required, you only need to monitor so that the material does not get out and completely closed the entire space between the bars.

To pack the first floor, both new and old boards are used, and screws or nails protrude as fasteners. Materials are used:

floorboards (studded, milling or tipped);
massive board;
laminate;
Fiberboard and others.

Owners of new houses, including wooden, are thinking about the preservation of heat still at the design stage. But buildings with a large service life simply need to be insulated and updated the facade. Therefore, this question remains relevant.

Wood is a short-lived material, even the most durable trees do not boast a long service life. The constant impact of moisture, temperature fluctuations and other negative factors lead to:

impaired construction integrity;
the appearance of drafts in the premises;
loss of external attractiveness;
dissolio of the supporting structure as a result of rotation of the material.

After the appearance of such shortcomings in the rooms of the old house is not comfortable, especially in winter periods, since it is necessary to spend a lot of strength to create a warm microclimate. In some cases, it is simply impossible to get rid of drafts. This is due to errors made at the design stage.

Modern technologies for construction and processing materials allow you to treat logs with antibacterial and moisture-repellent impregnations. Such actions allow to extend the life of wood.

What actions need to be carried out before thermal insulation?

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the heat insulator perform a number of actions that will suspend or slow down the process of wood destruction, as well as reduce heat loss. For this make the following:

Carefully inspect the outer walls.
Remove rotten areas.
Close up of deep disadvantages on the log cabin.
The slots between the walls of the wall is constantly.
The prepared base is treated with antiseptic solutions.

It will be worth covered with wood and antiseptic compositions that oppose the development of fungus and mold. Some are also protected from insects. Such events will help maintain the strength of the carrier design much longer.

Basic requirements for the heat insulator

Choosing insulation material, pay attention to such nuances:

The permeability coefficient of steam is the same as the tree or higher. Wood is perfectly misses couples so that the moisture is not accumulated in the insulation, he must have the same characteristics.
Inertia to the development of fungus and mold.
Fire safety. The tree is easily flammable and quickly lit. Such buildings always have a risk of fire, therefore it is better to select the heat insulator, which is badly burning or does not support the burning.
Plasticity and flexibility. For high-quality arrangement of thermal insulation, the material is tightly attached to the outer wall. Since the house of the log is not characterized by an ideal plane, pick up the appropriate insulation.
It is important that the heat insulator does not accumulate moisture.

If you choose the material on such criteria, the created warning system will last long and will help reduce spending on heating.

What materials can be used?

After studying all of the above criteria, it becomes clear that for the insulation of the structure from the log house:

Mineral wool is suitable for any kind (glass, basalt or stone minvat). The material does not burn and is not subject to rotting. Mold also does not settle on the surface of this insulation. The main thing is to adhere to the safety rules in the process of performing work with your own hands.
Equata - Material Creates a single formation and at the same time closes all irregularities, therefore it is great for the insulation of a wooden house. In addition, it is environmentally friendly because it is created from the waste paper.
Funny insulation - they used their ancestors. These include clamzit, sawdust, slag. For thermal insulation of vertical surfaces, it is necessary to build an additional wall, which, together with the supporting structure, forms the cavity where the material is placed.

polyurethane foam;
foam and expanded polystyrene;
penoplex;
mounting foam;
various kinds of sealants.

These materials do not have the necessary characteristics that are important for insulation of a wooden house. From a breathable design, they create something resembling a greenhouse. In the premises become warm, but the moisture accumulates and the air is stacked.

How to heat the house from the inside?

Internal insulation of residential buildings are extremely rare. This option significantly reduces the useful area of \u200b\u200bpremises. But this is not the only drawback.

Installing the insulation inside displays the dew formation point towards the main structure, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the wood and the rapid destruction.

Enough from the inside isolate the floor, roof and ceiling. This will significantly reduce the loss of heat and will not lead to negative consequences. Each element of the structure has its own characteristics of the installation of the insulation.

Heat insulation roofing and ceilings

Any work inside the house begins to perform from above. Thus, the treated surfaces are not subjected to mechanical damage and loads. Therefore, let's start with the roof.

To begin with, laid waterproofing membrane. It will protect the insulation from wetting, atmospheric precipitation.
Further, the space between the rafters is filled with minvati plates. They monitor the material to lay tightly, but smoothly. The gaps will become the bridges of the cold, as well as sticking sites.
From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film that protects the insulator from moisture from the room.
If the attic is not a residential close mineral wool you can install OSB or plywood. Wooden lining or other breathable finishing material is suitable for residential rooms.

Now proceed to protect the ceiling from heat loss. Perform such insulation on the side of the attic.

Start with a vapor barrier membrane, it will force the insulation from the vapors overlooking the rooms. It is littered on the draft ceiling, that is, boards stuffed on the beams.
The selected material for thermal insulation is placed on top. They monitor the layer to be smooth and uniform.
Protect the insulation of the boarding gender of the attic room. Between the insulation material and boards leave the ventilation gap in the amount of 1-1.5 cm.

Heat insulation of walls

Professionals do not recommend to warm the walls of a wooden house from the inside. But if for some reason it is not possible to do it outside then all internal work is carried out strictly according to the instructions. Proper fulfillment of all actions will not reduce the technical characteristics of wood.

Check the crowns of the cut. If you need to update or add material that was used for caulking.
Treat the walls with antiseptic impregnations and antipyren (substances that protect against fire).
From wooden bars treated with the same protective compositions, make a framework.
On the frame fixing the lining or slab material for the inner walls of the walls.
As a heater choose mineral or eco-friendly. The plates of the heat insulator are placed on the wall, protecting the membranes from two sides to the trim. Eco-eyed fill cavity as the wall is sewn.

At the last stage, the treated surfaces decorate. The lining is grin and covered with paint and varnish materials. Plates put sand, drag, are covered with wallpaper or color.

Floor

To protect your housing from the cold isolate and floor. For this execute the following list of actions:

Careful requirement of soil inside the foundation.
Laying sand or sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 20-40 cm.
Sealing subfolding.
Arrangement of waterproofing. A special membrane is covered with the previous layer.
Another layer of flowing insulation - gravel or perlite. Thickness from 40 cm. The material does not reach the upper edge of the lag by 2-3 cm.
Layer of waterproofing film.

Be sure to leave free areas of lag so that the wood can freely pass the air.

How to thermal insulation from the outside?

The outdoor insulation of the house is much better than, internal. Thus, the moisture that penetrated the material from the inner premises will be faster and will illuminate. To do everything correctly, it is better to hire a professional brigade, but you can do everything with your own hands.

To begin with, the foundation is prepared:

Clean attachments.
Remove contamination and stains.
Purify the plots, if necessary, apply a lat.
Covered walls with protective compositions.

Konopka log walls

Next, processed the joints of the logs. In these places, the most often appear gaps after long-term operation of buildings. This is due to the fact that the material dries and seats. To close up such cracks use:

pass;
jGUT;
rolled insulation;
hemp;

These are natural materials that tightly fill the resulting gaps, but at the same time do not reduce wood paropropusse. The insulation is laid on a log at the place of the appearance of the gap and pushing the pantry - a special pointed tool.

Facade ventilated device

One of the options for external thermal insulation of the log house is the arrangement of the ventilated facade. This design allows air to be circulated unhindered between the decorative layer and the insulation material, removing the excess moisture. At the same time, the insulation remains dry and retains its functions longer.

To make a ventilated facade adhere to such a plan:

Laying waterproofing.
Installing a frame. To do this, use a wooden beam with a size of 20 * 20 or 40 * 40 mm. The elements are fixed vertically or horizontally depending on which cladding material will be used in the future. The distance between the bars is slightly smaller than the width of the insulation.
In the cavity between the bars and the wall of the log house pushing the ribbon insulation (basaltin or jagut).
Laying heat insulator. Pay attention to how densely the material fills the gaps between the bars.
From above, the insulation is necessary to protect the waterproofing membrane. It is fixed with the help of a counterbalax. It will form a ventilated clearance.
Next, proceed to decorating the facade. To do this, Siding, a wooden block house, a facade tile and other materials intended for installation on the framework.

Method "Wet facade"

If an externally, the structure completely lost the attractiveness, you can use the "Wet Facade" option. For this, the insulation is fixed on the wall, and then covered with plaster. This method of insulation consists of a number of actions:

Arrangement of waterproofing.
Fixing the insulation. If the walls are smooth, you can use special glue solutions for outdoor work. For is made of a rounded timber, it is better to fix the mechanical fasteners.
Fastening the reinforcing grid. For this, a plaster solution is used. It is applied by a layer no more than 5 mm and apply fiberglass. The grid is smoothed with a wide spatula so that it is drowning in solution. In places where the reinforcing material looks over, another solution is added.
When this layer serves, one more leveling is applied, which will hide small disadvantages.
Next, you can use decorative plasters that form a specific pattern or paint the finished base of the front paint, well-transmitting steam.

Installation of thermopanels

Some prefer to use thermopanel for a log house. This option immediately insulates the walls and gives them attractiveness. They are installed as follows:

Fastening wooden bars as a crate. The distance between the elements is calculated so that one panel rests on 3 bar.
Fixation of thermopanels using self-tapping screws or dowels.
Treatment of joints with sealant. During the purchase, the composition is chosen, which is suitable for outdoor work.

In the process of embelling the seams, do not forget to leave the holes for the free penetration of the air under the lining, which will help remove the excess moisture.

Further events for the protection of a housing structure of a chopped log

After the wooden house is insulated and the finished should not leave it without attention for a long time. At least once a year, check the trim on integrity, purify pollution. If there were deficiencies on the mechanical impact on the decorative surface, then the insulation and waterproofing are not damaged.

In principle, further activities will depend on the chosen decorative material. If it was a wooden block house, it must be covered by protective compositions. For siding, there are no special requirements.

Stucco requires more complex care. Cracks need to close up on time. If the color has lost attractiveness and brightness, the surface is re-covered with paint.

The cost of finishing materials

All work on insulation and require large cash investments. The cost depends on:

Volume of work performed.
The state of the outer walls.
View of the insulation.
Quality of waterproofing membranes.
Species of decorative material.
Additional fasteners.
Work is performed by an independently or professional brigade.

Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the facade, calculate the approximate cost with the reserve and compare with the available budget. Having made in advance counting, you can be sure that the work will not stop halfway, for the lack of money.

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