A good harvest always means several things. All of them are important: the quality of the seeds, their proper preparation for sowing, the choice of variety, conditions and care. But there is one parameter whose influence is most important. it qualitative composition the soil in which the seedlings are grown. The yield of all seedlings (and in our climate most vegetables are grown through seedlings) depends to a large extent on a properly composed seedling soil.
There is no one universal soil that meets the needs of all plants. Every garden crop requires individual approach... Any plant has its own requirements for the soil mixture. But there is general rules, which allow you to create a base soil in order to then optimize it for one or another crop with minimal labor.
Initial requirements for seedling soil
Depending on the type of plants that are grown as seedlings, the soil mixture can be composed of different components mixed in certain proportions. But in all cases, it is necessary to comply with the initial requirements for seedling substrates.
Soil components
The land intended for sowing seeds must contain components of organic and inorganic origin.
Organic ingredients:
- soil - sod, leaf, garden;
- vegetable compost;
- rotted cattle manure;
- peat - lowland and high-moor;
- sphagnum, coconut fiber, seed husks, bark, sawdust;
- wood ash.
Peat is one of the most popular components of seedling soil mixtures
It is not necessary that absolutely all of the components from the list are present in the soil, but most are. It is better to mix the soil from three different soils: garden soil, which can be taken directly from the ridge (unless, of course, sick or insect-affected plants grew there); leafy (from leaves rotted with the ground); turf (which is obtained by cutting turf). Soil is the basic element of the seedling substrate.
Compost - rotten plants - must be mixed with rotted manure, which is called humus. This is the supplier of the necessary substances.
Advice! Do not sow vegetable seeds in humus, compost, or low moor peat. Too a large number of organics will force the sprouts to excessively increase the leaf mass to the detriment of root formation. As a result, the seedlings will not take root well when planted in a garden bed or greenhouse soil.
Peat is required, it is he who makes the soil fertile. The lowland contains about 70% of organic matter, the horse, consisting of sphagnum, makes the soil structure loose.
Peat is found in most seedling soil mixtures. It is obtained from swamps. This is not to say that it is a non-renewable resource. From decaying organic components under the influence of natural processes, it is formed in swamps, but very slowly - over thousands of years. In addition, peat is a part of the natural ecosystem - if it is completely removed from the swamps, or at least a serious deficit is created, the ecological balance will be upset.
This is why scientists have been trying to find a replacement for peat over the past decades. And finally they found it. More and more producers of seedling soil mixtures are switching over to use today.
Benefits of coconut fiber.
- It is 100% organic with no chemical impurities.
- They know how to absorb and retain water, working like a sponge, retaining moisture for plants and not removing useful substances from the soil.
- The layer of soil in the pot or container with the substrate containing the coconut fiber remains dry, which prevents the growth of soil fungi.
- Have coconut fiber the pH level is about 6, so it normalizes the overall acidity of the entire substrate.
- Fiber contains phosphorus, potassium, and others needed by plants substances in significant quantities.
Also, sunflower seed husks, tree bark, rotted sawdust, dry moss and other rippers are used to loosen the soil. Wood ash is added to normalize soil acidity.
Advice! Do not add more nutrients to the soil than the norm - the abundance of dressings is appropriate during the growing season, the seeds inside which the plant embryo have a sufficient supply of substances to form and release a full-fledged sprout. Enhanced nutrition is not required for the seed.
Inorganic components:
- river (in extreme cases, quarry) sand;
- perlite;
- vermiculite;
- expanded clay;
- mineral supplements.
Advice! Do not grind the components of the soil mixture too much and do not sift the mixture through a sieve with small cells - the fine-grained substrate will sour and "float" after each watering.
It is an excellent component of seedling potting soil. This substance has a number of significant advantages.
- Sterility - spores of fungal diseases and pathogens of infectious diseases do not settle in perlite.
- The absence of insects - they simply do not start in the substance.
- Absence of weed seeds - they do not take root and do not germinate in a soil mixture with perlite.
- Stored in original condition over time - perlite does not decay.
- Light weight - perlite is very light.
Vermiculite - porous, eco-friendly material, which contains a record amount of magnesium, potassium and calcium necessary for sprouts already in the early stages of life.
It drains the soil, acting as an organic leavening agent and helping to improve the structure and water holding capacity of the soil.
– polymer compound, which, due to its properties, also serves to maintain a high moisture capacity in the soil.
Advice! To simplify the irrigation procedure and maintain the required moisture, add hydrogel to the prepared soil before sowing.
In addition to the mandatory components, the following elements are also included in the soil mixture:
- ash;
- urea;
- potassium sulfate;
- potassium chloride and sulfate;
- ammonium nitrate;
- superphosphate.
What shouldn't be in the soil
This small but important point is often overlooked. It is neglected by amateur gardeners, resulting in all efforts to compose correct soil go to waste.
The following components should not get into the soil mixture:
- clay;
- fresh manure;
- not rotted plant residues;
- tea leaves, coffee grounds and other similar waste;
- salty sea sand.
Clay will make the soil heavy, impermeable to moisture and air, dense. Not rotted organic matter and coffee / tea will cause rotting processes - they can begin to decompose, increasing the temperature of the substrate, which will be detrimental to many seeds and seedlings. Also, the decomposition of organic matter will entail the release of nitrogen, which will evaporate, depleting the substrate.
Soil for various crops
The table below shows the soil composition for each vegetable crop of the most commonly grown.
Table. The composition of the soil mixture for common vegetable crops.
| Culture | Components of the soil mixture and their proportions |
|---|---|
| About 2 kg of garden soil, 1 - humus, ½ kg of sawdust (rotted), fine-grained tree bark or coconut fiber. For 6 kg of finished substrate - 40 g of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea. |
| 5 kg of turf soil, 5 kg of high moor peat, 2.5 kg of sand, 2 kg of humus, 1/4 kg of lime, 1/2 kg of ash or dolomite flour. |
| 6 kg of peat or 3 kg of leaf soil and coconut fiber, 2 kg of sod soil, 1 kg of humus, 1 kg of sand, ¼ kg of lime. |
| 4 kg of peat, 2 kg of sod soil, 1 kg of rotted sawdust or coconut fiber, 1 kg of humus. |
| 2 kg of peat, 2 kg of sod soil, 2 kg of humus, 1 kg of coconut fiber or rotted sawdust, 1 kg of sand. For 6 liters of the mixture - 40 g of ash and 15 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. |
| 8 kg of peat, 2 kg of sod land, 1 kg each river sand, mullein or humus, or 2 kg of vegetable compost, 1 kg of sawdust or coconut substrate. For 6 kg of the mixture - 10 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride, 20 g of superphosphate and 45 g of ash. |
| 2 Kg sheet soil, 2 kg of humus, 2 kg of peat or coconut substrate, 1 kg of sand. For 6 kg of mixture - 50 g of ash, 15 g potassium sulfate, 20 g superphosphate. |
How to prepare a soil mixture
In the process of preparing the soil for sowing seedlings, it is recommended to follow the instructions and follow step by step recommendations... It is necessary to start the procurement of components in the fall. They are also mixed in the fall. Then the finished soil is sent for freezing, which will serve as additional sterilization.
Important! Do not add mineral nutrients during the mixing stage. Nutrient additives are introduced into the soil in spring, after the main sterilization, before planting seeds, in the form of solutions.
Step-by-step instructions for preparing soil
Step 1. Prepare all the necessary ingredients that you plan to add to the substrate. They must be dry and in separate containers.
Step 2. Spread an oilcloth or other suitable bedding on the floor in the utility room, or take a large container (basin, trough, tray, pallet) in which you will mix the soil components.
Step 3. Take a measuring container (glass, mug, etc.) or prepare the balance. Prepare your tools - a spatula, small rakes - and put on gloves.
Step 4. Measure the right amount the necessary components, place in a container or pour on an oilcloth, mix thoroughly.
Step 5. Pour the finished substrate into small bags (ideally no more than 20 liters). If the bags are made of plastic, make a few small holes at the top so that the soil "breathes".
Step 6. Set the bags of soil in the barn, utility roomwhere in winter it will keep subzero temperature.
If speak about middle lane, then watermelons here (as well as some other crops - for example, melon) are preferable to grow through seedlings. In reality, there is nothing complicated in this process, the main thing is to know and how to do it.
Disinfection procedure
Harmful microorganisms contained in garden, leaf, turf, peat, sand, humus and other essential components of the seedling substrate can harm the seeds, introducing infection and reducing their germination. To prevent this from happening, the substrate must be disinfected. This is very important procedure, which should not be neglected if you want to get a strong healthy seedlings and fruitful plants.
There are four ways to disinfect a substrate:
- freezing;
- steaming;
- calcination;
- etching.
You can limit yourself to one way, but it is better to combine any of the first three, followed by etching.
Important! Freezing is carried out during the winter. All other methods begin to be used in January - February, when it is time to prepare the soil for sowing.
Freezing
The method of disinfection by freezing is that the bag with soil is left in a room where subzero temperatures are maintained in winter. If there is no such room, closer to spring the soil is taken out into frost and left for a week at a temperature of about -10 ° C ... 15 ° C. Then the frozen soil is returned to heat and allowed to thaw for a week. During this time, all the germs of weeds and pests that were not destroyed by the first freezing will "wake up" in it. After that, the soil is again sent to the frost. And so two or three times.
Steaming
The most effective method disinfection is considered to be freezing. The most favorable for the soil is steaming. During this procedure, not only disinfection is carried out, but also the saturation of the soil mixture with moisture. For steaming, the soil is poured into a sieve with a fine mesh (so as not to spill out) and, stirring, hold over a container of boiling water for 8 minutes.
Efficient soil cultivation
Digging up soil
The first important operation with the land in preparing a site for planting is digging the land (if you do not take into account the release of it from debris, weeds, leveling, etc.). To start digging, you should understand its depth, as well as the characteristics of the soil. Heavy soil requires digging to a depth of about 50 cm. Medium soil is dug up mainly by 60 cm, and very light, sandy - by 70 cm or more. Do not forget to lay organic fertilizers in parallel with the digging, but the manure should not be deeper than 20 cm from the surface. With a sufficiently deep digging (over 20 cm), stones, roots, etc. must be selected from the ground.
As a rule, the soil is dug deeply in the fall or winter - until the spring and the sowing period, the land should settle. Deep digging enriches the earth with oxygen, and it is easier for water to reach the lower layers. If the upper soil layer is as fertile as the lower one, then they can be mixed, otherwise you will have to remove the upper layer and fold it separately, so that after digging up the lower layers, return the upper one back.
Deep autumn digging is performed early, so that the bacteria have time to work on the treated areas before the frost. Also in order to make the most of the autumn rains. Moisture will not be absorbed into uncultivated compacted soil, whereas the water supply in the soil is extremely important. Watered land is watered less and less effort is spent on growing crops. In autumn, the soil is dug up to about 30 cm without breaking clods - after frost by spring they will become crumbly. During this period, manure is introduced. With a sufficiently deep digging, the fertilizer is first scattered over the site, after which it is buried 15 cm and only then they proceed to deeper digging. Also, in the fall, they neutralize various pests that, after digging, end up on the surface. Some die there, while others burrow deep into the ground, where they die out due to lack of oxygen.
❧ The seeds of some vegetables will germinate better if exposed to an alternating current of 3.5 kV / cm for 10-20 minutes, and any seeds that have been in a sealed chamber with ammonia gas for 10-20 minutes are 90% better sprout and grow twice as well
In the spring you can see how good the soil is, fertilized and dug up in the fall. It is homogeneous and has an excellent structure. If it was dug deep, then in the spring there is no need for a similar procedure - just level it with a rake. You just need to hurry, because under the sun, the soil quickly loses such valuable moisture.
When the ground is under snow in winter period, then it becomes compacted, therefore it requires a shallow spring digging (8-12 cm).
If digging was not carried out in the fall, then it will have to be done in the spring, but also shallow - 15-18 cm, moreover, when the state of the earth is average between wet and dry. After digging, the ground is immediately combed with a rake.
Loosening the soil
Digging is a key mechanical technique for basic soil cultivation, but loosening refers to surface cultivation, although it may well be deep. Its essence consists in fine processing, which increases, albeit not as significantly as digging, the access of oxygen to the ground, which contributes to the development of the root system. The layers of earth remain in place when loosening, and the result is the destruction of the soil crust (surface loosening should be carried out after watering or heavy rain, when a crust is just forming), the elimination of weed sprouts, and large roots are dug out. Loosening the soil often enough will reduce moisture evaporation and improve the water absorption of the soil. Hoes, hoes and various cultivators are used as technical means for loosening. Growing vegetables requires regular loosening of the soil to remove weeds and improve the soil near the plants.
There is such a technique - deep loosening, which is carried out in the spring. For this, a pitchfork can be used, which moves the soil layer. The process is as follows: first you need to stick the pitchfork vertically into the ground, then tilt it towards yourself, deepening the pitchfork into the soil, move the handle forward, shifting the layer of earth. Next, you should loosen the surface to a depth of about 8-9 cm, pouring ash, compost, mineral fertilizers and microelements into the soil. Deep loosening is used when it is necessary for oxygen and roots to reach the subsoil, but there is no need to turn the soil over.
It is also worth mentioning the point of view on loosening (and digging up) representatives of a rather popular ecological agriculture. So, they consider it harmful to the soil and try to use it to a minimum. In their opinion, worms and remnants of plant roots are useful, since they provide channels for the access of oxygen and moisture, and during loosening (and digging) the internal structure of the earth is disturbed, it subsides, the channels disappear with corresponding consequences. In addition, loosening and digging are deadly for earthworms and other microorganisms, due to which the humus layer is formed. And finally, when the soil is dug up, the humus layer mixes with the deep soil, which is not distinguished by uniformity, as a result of which the humus layer becomes poorer, which leads to the loss of soil fertility. Constantly mixed with the infertile deep layer, it becomes extremely thinner, and the soil loses its fertility. There are tools such as flat cutters and weeders that minimize the damage from loosening.
For a vegetable garden, growing plants without the use of intensive loosening and digging is possible, since there are no plants with a deep root system there. Indeed, you can use minimal digging and loosening, and fertilize superficially. And long before planting plants, since it is necessary to give the earthworms the opportunity to assimilate the feeding. If everything is done correctly, the weeds will grow reluctant, moisture evaporate less, the structure of the land will improve and yield will increase. In any case, before the entire operation, it is necessary to remove the existing weeds by mulching or chemical means. Also, the use of bezkopochnoy technology is justified in the presence of a system of beds.
Soil mulching
This intricate name hides an elementary, but very effective agricultural technique, the essence of which is to cover the soil with any materials that protect it from excessive weed growth, drying out, compaction and imbalance of the water and air environment in the upper soil layer. As a result of using this technology, the farmer will rarely need to weed and loosen, and water too.
The set of mulch materials is very diverse, you can use different organic and non organic materials: sawdust, grass, bark, paper, stone, roofing material, film, etc. The most useful organic material is rotted compost without weed seeds.
Naturally, it is better to use organic materials, since they do not retain air and water, rot over time, nourishing the earth with trace elements and having a beneficial effect on its structure. But it should be remembered that certain organic matter changes the acidity of the soil, so you need to carefully select materials for mulch.
In this perspective, compost seems to be an ideal mulch, since it does not in any way affect the acidity of the soil (it has a slightly alkaline reaction) and greatly enriches it with nutrients (in particular, phosphorus).
Various wood waste differ in slightly acidic reaction. They must be composted at least one year before use. If the bark is used, then the size of the pieces should not exceed 50 mm. It is good for mulching raspberries, fruit trees and shrubs. Peat has an acidic reaction and is well suited for mulch for plants growing in acidic soil, for example, clay peat makes it loose, so that it allows water and oxygen to pass through. On the other hand, peat is black, which will heat up under the sun and the ground under this material will crush. That is, peat is not suitable for continuous mulching, but for powdering rows of vegetables.
Using freshly cut grass useful in that it enriches the soil with nitrogen, while dry grass, on the contrary, takes nitrogen from the ground. There should be no weed seeds in the grass. It is better to dry the freshly cut grass a little so that it does not rot in the beds. Before using straw, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil.
Eggshells are characterized by an alkaline reaction, and such mulch effectively resists the invasion of slugs and snails.
The described procedure is recommended to be performed in late spring. The ground at this time is warm, it has already warmed up, and wet, because the snow has melted. However, there are no strict requirements for the timing of mulching. You just need to take the necessary preparatory activities: eliminate weeds, thoroughly moisten the soil, fertilize, if necessary, loosen. Then you can use mulch, which is laid in a layer no thicker than 50 mm. Gradually the layer may thin out due to natural factorsso it should be replenished periodically. At the same time, you need to know that mulch, laid on poorly heated ground, may slow down the development of plants, which is explained by the lower temperature under the mulch compared to the temperature of the uncovered ground (by several degrees). In this case, you need to remove the mulch and let the earth warm up for 2-3 warm days.
Anything can serve as the object of mulching: berry gardens, greenhouses, beds, plantations, flower beds, fruit bushes and trees. Plant stems, the root collar zone must be free of covering material, otherwise they can rot. If the plant is perennial, then the mulch may not be removed, but the layer should be replenished every year. Under annuals, a layer of mulch is buried in the ground, if there is no need for rotting of the material, or moved to compost heapto keep the material rotting. Dry grass can be collected in a separate place for the future.
When mulching, the type and composition of the soil must be taken into account. In particular, the sandy-clay soil is heavy and here it is enough to sketch out the covering material with a layer of 20 mm, since with a greater thickness from below, rotting will begin. Better to add stuff later. 2-3 garden seasons will pass, and it will be noticeable how the soil structure has improved.
Autumn is just approaching and the harvest is not yet fully harvested. There is still a little time left and the beds will remain completely empty. So it's time to prepare the site for the upcoming season. This is done in order to prepare the soil, supply it with the necessary elements for better cultivation crops next year and, accordingly, so that the harvest is rich and healthy. But what kind of procedures and activities need to be carried out, we will tell you in this article.
Preparing the beds in the fallThe soil loses its unique propertiesallowing you to grow strong vegetation and harvest at the end of the season. Therefore, she needs our help. Regular application of fertilizers with substances such as potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus helps to make up for the lack of these elements. We do not see this deficit, but we will be able to understand what it is, only by the state of the plants.
Autumn is the optimal period to enrich the depleted soil with various dressings and fertilizers, which for cold period absorbed and assimilated. And when you start planting and sowing garden crops in spring, they will be able to receive adequate nutrition, since during the winter the fertilizers were processed by the soil into the form necessary for vegetation.
For organic matter to take the form necessary for perception by vegetation, it takes some time. That is precisely why, in order not to wait for spring and when everything is processed and it is necessary to bring the nutrient medium into the ground in autumn. For a long cold period, the elements will decompose into components and will be ready to feed the crops and seedlings for planting.
But fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly. It is necessary to consider whole line nuances, namely soil condition, soil quality. And also plan future plantings in advance, because the same complementary food is not suitable for all plants, so take note of this and start from all of the above in order to choose the right nutrient medium.
Fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly Now let's go directly to the consideration of the proposed topic in more detail, consider each nuance.
Why prepare the soil in advance?
This question is often asked by gardeners, because there is spring and then, before planting vegetables, you can prepare the land. But this is not quite the correct line of thinking. Because as we said, fertilizer takes time to cultivated plants could consume it for their growth. And in the spring, there is already a lot of trouble: prepare seeds, grow seedlings, prepare holes for planting and plan the days of planting seedlings in the ground. Agree, this is a very time-consuming process, and you just might not have time to do everything.
Preparing the soil in advance This is why the autumn preparatory work is very important. Having spent a little more effort in the outgoing year, you will be able to pay more attention directly to planting work, because the site will be completely ready to grow a new crop. So do not be lazy, and you can slowly plan your actions with the arrival of spring.
How to properly prioritize preparation
Preparation should begin with clearing the area from the remnants of tops, weeds and other vegetation. If they are healthy, then put them in a compost pit for drying out, then you can use this to improve the quality of the soil. If necessary, chalk or slaked lime can be added to such fertilizers to normalize the acidity of the soil. If they show signs of disease, it is better to burn them outside the territory.
Preparation should begin with clearing the area from the remains of tops Pay special attention to weeds. They need to be removed with particular care: root systemscreeping stems. The garden should be completely rid of them so as not to waste time on this in the spring, when they grow faster than vegetables on the lure soil.
Now that you have cleared the entire area of \u200b\u200bweeds and their debris. It is necessary to start enriching the soil nitrogen fertilizers, potash and phosphorus - they are suitable for all plants. Since nothing will grow on the beds, urea can also be added in the winter, it is not difficult to calculate: 20-25 g per 1 m 2; superphosphate complementary foods in a ratio of 18-20 g per 1 m 2; potassium chloride in a proportion of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. Do not be afraid to introduce chlorine, by the time of spring it will no longer be in the soil. In addition, it is good to put a layer of manure, already rotted, in a proportion of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2 or deciduous humus of 3-4 kg per 1 m 2. Also, furnace ash, wood ash or soot will be useful in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m 2.
To lighten heavy soil or clay in your garden, add 1 bucket of river sand for each square meterafter mixing it with compost. This will make the soil looser and its fertile qualities will hang.
And vice versa, if you have a sandy soil in which neither water nor nutrients linger, you need to mix it with clay, also in a bucket per square meter, add compost in an amount of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2, humus from leaves 3-4 kg per 1 m 2, and sawdust 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil, so make sure that when laying them, they are soaked in water and a little misty.
Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil Land with an acidity index below 6 units must be enriched with chalk or hydrated lime. When the acid-base balance is less than 4.5, it is necessary to use limestone in an amount of 200-250 g per 1 m 2. With indicators in the range of 4.6-5.5, add chalk in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m 2.
All the substances described are introduced in the fall at the time of digging the garden. First, you distribute it over the top layer of turf, then dig up the soil onto a full bayonet of a shovel, mixing all the necessary ingredients with the ground.
You need to dig up the beds correctly
There are two main ways to dig garden beds: moldboard and moldboard.
You need to dig up the beds correctly Consider first the dump-free method, it consists in the fact that the earth layer does not break and turn over. Thus, there is a complete preservation of the beneficial microflora of the soil of the lower and upper layers. The formed clods of soil should also not be broken.
The dumping method is completely opposite in action: the clods need to be turned over and crushed. This method is most often used in autumn preparation land. This is the only way we can place fertilizers in the soil, while distributing them evenly. But harmful insects and dangerous microbes who decide to spend the winter in the ground will literally be dragged out. It is not recommended to break up lumps of soil that are on the surface itself, because deep freezing will occur. But if you intend to prepare completely and clearly delineate the beds, chop up all the lumps. Then it is necessary to level the soil over the entire surface, this can be achieved by layering the soil during digging, making them higher than the rest of the soil by a few centimeters. Thus, the sun's rays in the spring will warm such beds faster than other land on the territory.
We prepare the beds for each vegetable separately
We considered common features on how to prepare for planting plants in the winter: feeding, coating, dumping, layering of soil on plots with an increase in their level. But that's only general recommendations... But our task is not so much to find out the basic recommendations, it is to competently cultivate the site for each separate type of vegetable crops. And all this is also carried out after the harvest, namely in autumn period.
Beet planting beds
For sowing a vegetable, you need to choose a well-lit place, with drained and light soil. Then you can safely expect a good root crop. Optimally, plots should be prepared for rocks or loam, with a neutral acid-base balance. Other types of soil are poorly suited to growing this crop, even with normal nutrients. Do not plant in places infused with water. And it is worth abandoning planting in the soil of high acidity.
Beet planting beds It is better to plant a vegetable in the vacant place from cucumbers, zucchini, potatoes early varieties... And also good predecessors are varieties of early sweet peppers, eggplants and tomatoes. And it is categorically impossible to sow table beets in place of spinach, carrots, rapeseed, Cabbage and Swiss chard.
Be sure to lay a layer of compost when carrying out autumn preparatory work or deciduous humus at the rate of ½ bucket per 1 m 2 of one plot. As a fertilizer with minerals, potassium chloride in a ratio of 12-14 g per 1 m 2 and ammonium nitrate with superphosphate in a ratio of 22-25 g per 1 m 2 will be good.
Please note that in no case should fresh manure be introduced into the soil during preparation, as you risk growing a crop with a high nitrate content in the coming year.
Prepares a plot for squash and pumpkin
These vegetable crops they are not picky at all and treat well almost all fertilizers that we apply to the ground. They will also like almost completely rotted manure, at the rate of 3-4 kg per square meter of plot, but not more. It is laid for digging.
Prepares a plot for squash and pumpkin The soil must have a neutral acid-base balance. If your kidney has a high acid content, do chalking or add limestone.
It is optimal to plant cultivated plants in places from under potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops in general and after legumes. But do not populate the area left over from cucumbers, squash and zucchini.
Pay attention to the type of soil, with a high clay content, you need to add ½ a bucket of humus and 1 bucket of river sand per 1 square meter and dig everything up well. The same measures are necessary for general training in the autumn for pumpkins and zucchini. Fertilizers with mineral base also needed: superphosphate 10-15 g, ash 250 g and potassium phosphate 15 g - this will be quite enough.
Sandy lands can also be equipped for growing squash and pumpkins, for this add a bucket of clay and ½ a bucket of deciduous humus per 1 m 2 of the garden.
Preparing a place for planting herbs
Dill and other greens also cannot be planted anywhere in order to get a good harvest. They will grow successfully in a place free of cabbage, tomatoes and onions. But don't plant herbs in the carrot, parsnip, and celery area.
Landing place spicy herbs Good illumination of the sowing area is also important, it will also be well warmed up. In autumn, cover the place planned for greenery with coniferous branches so that the snow lies there longer, so the land will be more fertile. Check the PH balance of the area. After all, vitamin bushes grow poorly on high acidity. Add lime or chalk to normalize acidity levels.
These plants do not require any special preparation. Dig the garden bed no deeper than 23 cm, be sure to add 2-3 kg of rotted manure per 1 m 2, 25-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 8-10 g of potassium sulfate, 10-12 g of superphosphate for the same 1 m 2. With the arrival of spring, you just need to loosen the soil well and organize the holes for sowing. It is also necessary to thoroughly spill the plots with water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2 and compact the soil a little so that the seeds do not "drown". The sowing holes should be 2 cm deep.
Preparing the ground for tomatoes
Tomatoes should be planted in the ground instead of table beets, cucumbers, onions, legumes, carrots, lettuce, herbs, corn and zucchini. Late ripening cabbage, potatoes, eggplant and bell pepper.
Preparing the ground for tomatoes After the chosen place, you should proceed to the selection of the type of soil. The soil must be fertile. An overly acidic soil should be fed with lime in a proportion of 150-200 g per 1 m 2, but this will not work with any acidity. If the soil consists of sandstone or loam, then you will need to add 250 g of limestone per 1 m 2 for digging, for medium or heavy loam, you will need to add 350 g, also under a shovel.
Take your time with fertilizing the site. Prepare superphosphates, tomatoes like it, and simply distribute it throughout the garden without digging up the top layer.
Since tomato bushes are tall, you should not make a bed for them with an increase in the level. Limit yourself to 23 cm wide and 100 cm long, you don't need to do more in volume.
Plots for planting cucumbers
And of course, we select a plot for this vegetable crop. There are few places where you can find a vegetable garden where cucumbers do not grow. It is better to plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, legumes, spinach, onions, early varieties of cabbage, as well as cauliflower, carrots and greens. And you should beware of the place after cucumbers, melons, watermelons, pumpkins and squash.
Plots for planting cucumbers Try to prepare the soil and make it light in the fall. For cucumber seedlings, loamy or sandy loam soil is most suitable. Clayy and heavy soils require the addition of sand: 1 bucket per 1 m 2 for a shovel. The soil can be slightly acidic, cucumbers feel calm there, so if only such a piece of land remains, do not worry.
And please note that it is also necessary to add 5-6 kg of dumped manure, and then dig it up with a full shovel.
We lay complementary foods for warm beds
Also, autumn is very suitable for the construction of insulated beds. To do this, you need boards to mount a box or box, as a rule, they are made 1 m * 2 m.In the bottom layer we lay large branches, bark, thick stems of plants, for example, corn, it can also be cuts of logs and pieces of hemp or boards. Then a layer of sand, sawdust, chains, peelings of vegetables and plant debris is poured, even a layer of fallen leaves, humus and spread the ash. When laying these layers, take into account the fact that soil, mixed with compost, up to 30 cm in height, must still fit on top, into which the plants will be planted.
Complementary food for warm beds Do I need mulching
If you have a question about the need to mulch the beds that you prepared so diligently, then yes, of course this event needs to be held. Created on the basis of pure organic substances, it cannot in any way harm or affect the active life of everyone beneficial bacteria in the plots you created. In early spring, you just need to remove the used mulch from the surface. The plot is now ready to receive new plants, and the fertile land will help grow them.
A year ago we bought a house with a garden.
Gardenuprooted.In the springare planningbreak upbedsonhimlocation.FROMwhatstart offpreparationsoil?ElizabethZharova
The decision to set up beds on the site of the old garden is quite justified, because newly planted young fruit trees will grow poorly here due to soil fatigue caused by the accumulation of half-life products of plant residues - leaves, fruits, dying roots, as well as pathogens. Any annual crops and garden strawberries can be successfully grown on the grubbed area.
In the spring, as soon as weather conditions allow (the signal is a slight lag of clods of earth from the shovel), it is necessary (if this was not done in the fall) to carefully dig up the area on the bayonet of the shovel, choosing, if possible, the remnants of roots, rhizomes of perennial weeds, and also larvae of pests wintering in the soil ...
The need for liming the site is easy to determine by the weeds growing on it. Nettle, quinoa, shepherd's purse, euphorbia indicate a neutral reaction (6-6.5 pH) of the soil, suitable for most garden crops. Clover, plantain, dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot mean medium (5-5.5 pH), and horsetail, sedge, buttercup, fern - high (4.5 pH) degree of acidification.
In the latter cases, during digging, slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash and other lime materials at the rate of 200-300 g / m 2 - with an average and 300-500 g / m 2 - with strong acidification.
On sandy and sandy loam soils, liming is carried out 1 time in 4-5 years. on light loamy - once every 6-8 years. on heavy clayey - once every 10 years. It should be remembered that it is undesirable to grow potatoes and strawberries on a site that was limestone this spring.
The efficiency of liming increases if it is combined with the introduction of mineral, organic and bacterial fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers are spread over the entire surface of the ridge.
On 1 m 2 of the site, depending on the composition of the soil, 20-40 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate are applied. You can replace them with complex mineral fertilizers, such as nitroammofoska, "Kemira Universal", "Kemira Kombi", and other fertilizers containing, in addition to the main macronutrients, also microelements. Application rate - 60-100 g / m 2.
Micronutrient fertilizers (copper, boron, iron, manganese, zinc and other trace elements), activating growth processes and promoting better assimilation by plants nutrients, it is more effective to use for foliar and root seasonal dressings.
Bacterial fertilizers (azotobacterin, nitragin, phosphobacterin, biologically active soil AMB). containing beneficial soil microorganisms, increase the fertile properties of the soil, converting forms of nutrients inaccessible to plants into accessible ones.
They are introduced into moist soil in liquid form, treated with seeds, tubers and seedling roots during sowing. A necessary condition for the active action of bacteria, the temperature is in the range of 20-25 ° C and pH 6-7.5. Acidic soils must be limed before adding bacterial preparations.
After digging with the introduction of fertilizers and lime, the surface of the earth is loosened, breaking large lumps, align with a rake, then proceed to cutting ridges, orienting them from north to south. On the slopes, the ridges are placed across the site, leaving an edge of 5-7 cm on each row to protect the soil from erosion.
The height of the ridges depends on the composition of the soil and climatic conditions... On sandy loam soils, ridges are made up to 10 cm in height, on loamy soils - up to 15-20 cm. In wet areas, ridges or ridges up to 30 cm high are built, arranging a system of diverting grooves through which excess water flows.
Tall (50-100 cm) ridges, built on cold heavy clayey or waterlogged soils, warm up faster in spring and keep warm longer in autumn. In arid places with light soils, it is better to do without ridges altogether, planting plants in furrows. The width of a standard ridge is 90-100 cm. Furrows are 25-30 cm.
You can start sowing and planting cold-resistant crops when the soil has warmed up and contains the optimal amount of moisture (a lump of soil can be rolled into a non-decaying bundle without getting your hands dirty).
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Garden garden care in spring
Under the weight of moisture and snow cover, the soil settles. It should be loosened with a rake or cultivator in order to retain the saturated moisture and structure. If the site has been planted with winter crops, the land must be cultivated with a harrow. It is best to mulch the plot in the fall so that with the arrival of spring the soil remains loose. If you did not prepare the beds before winter, then with the arrival of heat, you will need to dig up the area, removing the roots of the weeds. The procedure should be carried out after lunch, when the topsoil is sufficiently warmed up.
After turning over, the bottom layer will also heat up. The dug up bed must be loosened with a rake so that it does not dry out. Leftover vegetation can be sent to the compost pit. You can improve the quality of the soil with the help of trace elements. Garden crops often lack iron, copper, manganese, molybdenum and zinc. It is necessary to add green sand or algae flour to the soil (you can buy it in a specialized store, or make it yourself if you have a reservoir), which are rich in these elements. For such a procedure, cleaned silt and rotted leaves left after cleaning the gutters are ideal. This method is completely organic.
How to prepare the soil in a greenhouse
The soil in the greenhouse must be changed periodically, even if the crop rotation is followed. If you plan to grow the same plants as last year, the procedure is required.
The topsoil is sent to a compost pit and replaced with ready-made humus. The beds are sown with early greens and radishes. When you harvest them in a month, the site will be ready for planting vegetable seedlings.
How to prepare a new site for planting
If you decide to expand the planting area, then you should properly process the virgin soil. To do this, cut off the sod in small squares. Cuts are made on four sides with a shovel, and then cut from below.
How to improve the quality of the soil for planting garden crops
There are a number of measures to improve the quality of the soil for planting garden crops.
For the active development of the aboveground part of plants, nitrogen is needed, phosphorus is useful for the roots, and potassium helps to fight diseases. The description of each crop contains information about the plant's need for these elements, and their proportions;
Give preference to organic fertilizers, since synthesized fertilizers only temporarily feed the plants, but do not improve the quality of the soil. Fertilizers of plant and animal origin create and maintain the necessary microflora in the soil;
Use compost own production... Properly organized and prepared compost pit will allow you to receive high-quality fertilizer within six months, which can significantly improve the characteristics of the land without special costs;
Use mixed soil and compost for new crops. Each plant has its own fertilizer to soil ratio. For example, vegetable crops require 20% compost and 80% mixed soil. This will create conditions for good growth seedlings and increase yields; Crop rotation planning. It is not worth planting the same crops in the same place year after year, this quickly depletes the soil and weakens it. Make a plant rotation schedule and stick to it annually;
The introduction of fungi and bacteria into the soil. These supplements can be purchased at specialized stores. Their main task is soil rehabilitation. For example, the fungus Mycorrhiza helps the root system of plants to receive more moisture and necessary nutrients, and nitrogen-forming bacteria enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Pledge good harvests is high soil fertility. Most effective method to improve its composition - to enrich the structure with useful substances. The most natural and safest of these are organic fertilizers, which help grow environmentally friendly products.
This type of fertilizer has always existed. On initial stage evolution, he markedly influenced the development of life on the planet. Since its inception flora, organic waste was the most important link in the biocenosis chain, allowing plants to develop and fill new areas. When rational use, organic fertilizers are an endless resource for agronomy. These are renewable substances of natural origin. They consist of processed remains of the vital activity of organisms and plants.
Organic matter has a beneficial effect on the soil, transforming its structure at the physical and chemical level, and activates the activity of living microbes.
The fertile layer covers about 3 billion hectares of the surface of our planet. Over the millennia, it was formed naturally, from the biological remains of all living things. To date, there are compulsory, more rational approaches to the enrichment of arable land.