Than processed strawberries after harvest. Strawberries: post-harvest care in July and August

Leaves by season

Garden strawberry leaves are renewed three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. They work actively from 40 to 80 days. Regrown bushes in spring feed the bushes from April to June inclusive, and then, having grown old, gradually die off. After fruiting, summer ones grow back to replace the spring ones.

The former are important for the fruiting of the current year, the latter for the setting of flower buds and the accumulation of nutrients for the future. Then the so-called autumn leaves grow, which go into winter. With a good and stable snow cover, most of them remain until spring. Each gardener must decide for himself whether or not to mow the old leaves. Much depends on the condition of the beds and how much time you are willing to devote to caring for strawberries.

I mow, as I think they carry a lot of infection. But not at the end of summer, but right away

after harvest. The timely removal of leaves from the plantation (before the spores fly) significantly reduces the damage from diseases, and also prevents re-infection. It is also important for me that this technique strongly suppresses the growth of the mustache. I do not mow leaves only on first-year strawberry beds.

The procedure itself does not take much time: we take a benzoko-su and mow the bed at a height of 5-7 cm. At the same time, old leaves are almost completely removed and neither the horns nor the growth points are damaged.

The cuttings are usually composted. I water the strawberry beds well and feed them with a solution of chicken manure (1:15). Strawberry good

reacts to it and immediately begins to actively recover. For feeding, you can use any complex fertilizers (15-20 g / m2), it is better if they are with microelements.

No bare roots!

A good technique is hilling strawberry bushes, especially from the 3rd year of life. I also do it after mowing the leaves, combining it with loosening the soil after watering and liquid top dressing. At the same time, I make sure that the heart is not covered with earth.

At the end of August, I pour a layer of mulch 3-4 cm around each bush. I use leaf humus for this. It serves not only as a fertilizer, but also as a heater for the winter, and in the spring does not allow the roots to be exposed.

Strawberry drones - out!

Weed varieties are often found on strawberry plantings.

They either do not yield at all, or they bring low - small and unmarketable berries. Such bushes, not burdened with a crop, throw all their strength into reproduction. Like weeds, they suppress the large-fruited variety. Therefore, it is important to notice the appearance of these weeds in time and to destroy them.

On a note

Removal of strawberry leaves is indicated for early and mid-season varieties. In the late ones, it is undesirable to mow the leaves, they may not have time to grow them before frost, which will significantly reduce the yield next year. It is also not used for remontant and neutral-day strawberry varieties, which will have a second fruiting in the fall, lasting until late autumn.

Practical advice

Do not leave overripe or damaged berries on the beds. Usually it is they who serve as a source of contamination of plantings with seedlings.

How often to renew your strawberry plantation

I use fruiting strawberry bushes for no more than three years, not counting the year of planting. I usually renew my plantation no later than the second half of August. Young rosettes planted at this time manage to form not only well-developed roots and leaves before winter, but also to lay flower buds in a short day.

I plant strawberries in the garden in one line. In the first year of growing on bushes, I remove all whiskers, except one or two. In the second year I repeat the same thing. I direct young sockets to free places. From these, self-rooted, the most productive bushes grow. The result is long strawberry ribbons. If I do not plan to replace varieties, then I use the sockets of the second year to create new beds. If there is another planting material, I remove all the formed whiskers after the second harvest. On the 3rd and 4th year of growing, I remove all the mustache.

Yourself with a mustache!

So that my favorite strawberry varieties do not degenerate, during fruiting I outline the most productive bushes, in the future I take the mustache for laying the future plantation only from these "mothers". I separate the sockets immediately after rooting and plant them on a separate bed. Very well accepted are those that were kept for 10-12 hours in a zircon solution (1 ml per 2 l of water) before planting.

Note

The most powerful rosettes in the garden usually give bushes little loaded with berries. In fertile ones, they grow more modestly. Therefore, in order to obtain high-quality seedlings, it is better to plant mother plants on a separate bed and remove flower stalks from them. Or take sockets only from the intended copies.

Who disfigures the strawberry bushes

The transparent strawberry mite is the most dangerous pest of strawberries. Most often damages leaves, especially young ones.

As a result, they curl up and acquire a yellowish-oily hue, the peduncles become dwarf, and the berries become small. The more pests, the uglier the bushes. Warm and humid weather contributes to the reproduction of ticks.

It is good to use onion peel infusion against strawberry mites: pour 200 g with 10 liters of warm water and leave for 4-5 days, then strain the infusion and use for spraying.

You can also prepare an infusion from the onion itself: chop 100 g of onions, place in a tightly sealed container, pour 10 liters of water and leave for 6-7 hours.

Another way is reliable: weed the affected plantation, removing the extra mustache and diseased leaves (they must be removed from the plants together with the petioles, it is at the base of the leaf petioles that adult female ticks hibernate), then abundantly sprinkle the bushes with an infusion of mashed garlic 0.5 kg pour 3 l of water, use 300 g of hood per watering can.

After harvesting, chemical treatments are also carried out. The plantation is sprayed after mowing the leaves with one of the drugs: fufanon, kemifos, fitoverm.

You can finally get rid of the pest by laying the beds in a new place. All seedlings (after washing the roots from the soil and tying them in bundles) are immersed in a container with water heated to 45'C before planting.

It is kept in it for 13-15 minutes, after which the sockets are immediately cooled in cold water.

The first two weeks, strawberry plantings will look ugly, but then they will noticeably cheer up.

N. SOLONOVICH, scientist agronomist

I have met different opinions about whether it is necessary to cut off the mustache and leaves of garden strawberries after they have borne. Advise how to proceed?

D. Dymova Lipetsk region

The post-harvest period requires special attention, since it is very important in the life of strawberries. At this time, the growth of leaves, horns, roots resumes, flower buds are laid, i.e. the next year's harvest is being formed. Therefore, timely and high-quality care of plants is now needed (weeding, feeding, watering, removing whiskers, loosening the soil, fighting pests and pathogens).

When the strawberries are harvested, the mustache is best removed from the bushes so that they do not deplete the mother plant and do not interfere with the establishment of flower buds. However, the mustache with the rosettes with which you are going to propagate the variety must be left, and remember that the first and second rosettes closest to the mother plant are considered the strongest.

Whether to remove the leaves along with the mustache is an ambiguous question.

In the southern regions, removing leaves immediately after harvesting berries is an agricultural technique that increases yields. This is due to the fact that in the south, the post-harvest period is long and favorable for plant development.

If you cut off the leaves before July 15 and feed and water the plants well, then leaves and roots will begin to actively form, flower buds will begin to form. By the fall, such plants will develop strong aboveground and root systems, which will have a positive impact on the next year's harvest.

In the northern regions, mowing strawberry leaves during this period gives negative results, since the plants do not have time to prepare well for the next year's harvest. So in the middle lane, this technique should be carried out only if the plants are severely damaged by the strawberry mite.

Then mow and burn the leaves as quickly as possible, immediately after picking the berries. If the strawberry is not damaged by a tick, then you should not remove the leaves after harvesting in the central regions of the non-chernozem zone, otherwise the plants will not have time to develop a sufficient leaf apparatus and lay flower buds before the onset of cold weather.

Strawberry (garden strawberry) yield depends on your diligence and how well you follow the recommendations when caring for it. Often gardeners ignore the measures for keeping the berry after fruiting, which is a mistake.

Many inexperienced gardeners believe that after fruiting, garden strawberries do not need care, and they can be "canned" until next season. However, with this approach, one should not be surprised that next year there is no harvest or it is completely meager. After all, preparation for a new stage of fruiting begins immediately after picking strawberries and continues for most of the season. In this article, you will find the most popular tips on how to how to properly care for strawberries after harvest.

Strawberry Care in July

An important part of the July strawberry care is mustache trimming... The fact is that strawberry bushes that are 3-5 years old, after fruiting, actively grow a mustache and spend a large amount of nutrients on this. Therefore, they are removed using secateursto facilitate the development of the plant.

Never pull off the mustache, as this can easily damage the strawberry bush, and the plant will spend a lot of energy on recovery.

Before removing parts of the strawberry bush, it should be feed... For 1 square meter, add a mixture of superphosphate (40-60 g), ammonium nitrate (20-30 g) and potassium chloride (15-20 g). Loosen soil in row spacings to a depth of 10 cm and next to strawberry bushes.

Root oxygen is just as important as water and top dressing, so regularly loosen the soil near the strawberry bushes

Healthy strawberries, which will enter the phase of active growth in 5-7 days, should be fed with a mixture of nitrophoska (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and wood ash (1 glass). For young plants of the first year of fruiting, spend 1 liter of solution, and for those that are older - 1.5-2 liters.

Closer to mid-July, you should feed strawberries fresh chicken droppings... It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 15-20. Plants are watered from a watering can, being careful not to fall on the leaves. 10 liters of solution is enough for 6-8 bushes of adult strawberries and 20-25 bushes for young ones. Fertilizer should be applied after rain or a couple of hours after watering.

In a timely manner pull the weedsremoving them after watering and rain. Also, loosen the soil regularly to oxygenate the root system.

Strawberry Care in August

Not knowing, how to care for strawberries in August, you risk losing your crop next year. The last summer month is often dry and hot. Therefore, it is important to conduct watering at least 2 times a week. Plants themselves "signal" the need for watering - the bushes droop, and the foliage dries up.

You can water strawberries both by sprinkling and under the root - the sun is no longer so aggressive, and there will be no burns on the leaves

If the leaves continue to dry out, become stained, weaken, they should be carefully cutting down and leave only 3-4 healthy leaves for healing the "green mass". The same goes for mustachethat are removed if they are still growing, or if you forgot to do so in July.

Plants can feed a weak mullein solution (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) and loosen the soil. One 10 liter bucket should be enough for 10-12 bushes. Earthen "sides" up to 15 cm high can be formed around the beds and filled with water to the top.

And it is also in August that it is recommended to plant new strawberry bushes on the site. It is best to do this in the evening or on a cloudy day. The seedlings should have three true leaves and a developed root system. It is planted in a previously prepared wet hole.

Strawberry Care in September

Autumn care for strawberriesdiffers from summer events slightly. However, they shouldn't be neglected either.

Some strawberry varieties continue to flower even in September. The berries on them will not ripen before the onset of cold weather, so such "blank" inflorescences follow cut off... The same applies to mustache strawberries.

Removing inflorescences from varietal strawberries in the fall will help protect them from anthracnose and white spot

Even if the forecasts promise a mild winter, feed the bushes. Perfect for this Ammophos (the content is brought in at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq. m). For "insulation" they also bring in rotted chicken droppingsdiluted in water in a ratio of 1:15. Pour 1-1.5 liters of composition under each bush. Sometimes use and cow dung, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 with the addition of 1 glass of ash. Strawberries are abundantly watered with the resulting composition at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per bush.

For the last time before winter, inspect the strawberry bushes and reject sick and affected specimens, and remove excess mustache and withered leaves. Don't throw away the "bad" plants, but put them in the compost heap.

Now you know, how to care for strawberries in September... Armed with this information, you are guaranteed to get a bountiful harvest next year.

Caring for strawberries after cutting leaves

Outdoor strawberry care involves not only the removal of whiskers and inflorescences, but also leaves... However, you do not need to "bare" the plant completely, because by picking off healthy leaves, you reduce the likelihood of flower stalks and fruit formation, reduce productivity and doom strawberries to difficulties during the wintering period. First of all, remove dry and withered leaves affected by strawberry mites. If the fertile plant is almost completely affected, then it is easier to cut it with a pruner just above the growth point and burn the remains.

If you need seedlings for reproduction, then you should not remove the mustache, you need to give them the opportunity to put down roots and grow a strong outlet

After pruning loosen the ground and water it. Treat the bushes with a weak solution potassium permanganate and sprinkle ash... To ensure good bud growth, feed the strawberries with 10 g / 10 L of water with a universal fertilizer. Also fit ammonium nitrate and nitrogen fertilizers (use according to instructions).

Towards the end of September, strawberry bushes can be overlaid strawto protect them from the coming frost. Spread the freshly cut grass - it will be the first spring fertilizer.

Repairing Strawberry Care

From mid-September, start caring for the fertile bushes. Loosen the soil to hide the root system and keep it out of the cold. As a rule, at this time the plants are covered with a "blanket" of cut sideratesor mulch the soil with straw, hay, fallen leaves and cut weeds. Remove the remaining peduncles so that they do not weaken the plants, but withered cut the leaves after the first frost.

As you can see, it is easy to take care of garden strawberries after fruiting. It is enough just to perform the necessary set of standard measures, and grateful plants will give you a bountiful harvest.

Every gardener loves to harvest large harvests of strawberries. But her cultivation does not end there. In this article, you can find out what steps are needed to prepare strawberries for the new harvest season.

Many gardeners who grow strawberries on their plots will not be able to answer how strawberries develop after harvest, and what to do after fruiting. But proper care of strawberries after picking berries becomes the basis for a good harvest next year. It is necessary to carry out preparatory measures in the fall.

Strawberry

Strawberries begin to flower and bear fruit very early. Around the middle of the nurse, the first berries begin to ripen. However, during this time, the plants simply could not receive all the necessary substances in sufficient quantities to form sweet and large berries.

Here a natural question may arise, how is such a crop formed? The future harvest begins to form at the end of the summer of the previous year. As soon as the harvest of fragrant berries is harvested, new buds are laid, flowers grow and whiskers grow. It is very important to take care of the strawberries during this time.

It should be borne in mind that different varieties of strawberries will ripen in different ways. Most of the varieties finish bearing fruit in early summer. However, the latest varieties of remontant strawberries can ripen until mid-August. Therefore, the timing of events may shift.

Straw mulching

Pruning

After the end of the fruiting period, the foliage on the strawberry bushes begins to die off and be replaced by a new one. Thus, the strawberry itself gets rid of old leaves after harvest, what should a gardener do (video) in this case? It is necessary to help the plants get rid of excess old leaves and cut them off.

Reasons to get rid of the leaves:

• Old leaves can no longer participate as effectively in the process of photosynthesis. They require far more nutrients to maintain them than the benefits they can provide. If the leaves begin to turn yellow and die off due to their old age, then help the plants and carefully remove them.
• It is necessary to remove the leaves if they were affected by diseases and or a tick. Such leaves must not only be cut off, but also burned in order to completely destroy the infection. The tools used to trim the leaves must be disinfected so as not to spread the infection to all plants.

After such a procedure, it will be appropriate to feed the strawberries so that the strawberry roots have time to gain nutrients before the winter period.

In the same period, mustaches begin to form actively. It is important to know when processing strawberries after harvest, what to do with the mustache. A strawberry mustache is a breeding tool. If there is no need for this, then you can cut them all. Otherwise, 1-2 best copies are left. They are neatly buried in.

It is not advisable to start trimming the mustache. In this case, all the nutrients necessary for laying new buds will be spent on the development of whiskers and rosettes, which will still be clipped.

Processing of strawberry bushes should be carried out constantly, but the bulk of the work falls on the period after fruiting. If, after such treatment, the strawberry bushes turned out to be completely without leaves, you should not panic. Before the onset of the winter period, she will have time to grow new foliage.

Weed removal

There is nothing difficult in loosening the soil, although there are some features that should be taken into account when carrying out this agrotechnical measure.

• The soil between the bushes is loosened thoroughly, but neatly and not deeply. The main part of the roots is at a depth of 10 cm. Loosening is necessary so as not to touch the roots.
• When loosening, you should slightly huddle the soil so that the side roots are underground.
• The question may arise when caring for strawberries after harvest, what to do with weeds. It is very convenient to weed and remove weeds at the same time as loosening.

Top dressing

During flowering and fruiting, it is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. They promote the formation of new foliage. And this is not very good for ripening berries. But after the end of fruiting, everything changes dramatically, and fertilizers containing nitrogen are especially necessary for strawberries.

Feeding strawberries

Watering

Before the onset of winter, watering should be done regularly. Watering is very important for caring for strawberries after fruiting, what to do next and how to water properly can be found below.

• The soil must be moist. This can be ensured by regular watering.
• Frequent and shallow watering does not give the desired result. It is better to water the strawberries rarely but abundantly. Abundant watering every 7-10 days is considered optimal.
• To protect the soil from rapid drying, it should be covered with peat or non-woven covering material.
• Watering should be done in the morning or in the evening, otherwise the strawberry leaves may burn.

Full watering after harvesting will have a positive effect on the quality of the crop that can be obtained in the next harvest year.

Disease and insect treatment

Diseases and insects can wreak havoc on strawberry plantations. In some cases, this can lead to the complete destruction of all plants. Therefore, it is necessary to process the plantings annually from the most common pests and diseases. It is best to do this after harvest, so as not to disturb the flowering and ripening of the berries. How the signs of the disease appear on strawberries after harvest, and what to do (video) to combat them, you can find out below.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

• Powdery mildew. The disease is quite common and manifests itself in the form of the appearance of a white bloom. Spores of the fungus overwinter in the affected parts of plants and are carried by the wind when favorable conditions occur. May lead to slower development of berries and further drying.
• Gray rot. A small spot of gray or brown color begins to appear on the berries, on which a gray mossy bloom then forms. Such berries begin to rot very quickly and become unusable for food. On foliage, such signs are much less common.
• Brown spotting. The fungus develops on old leaves from mid-summer. A sign of the disease is the formation of brown spots. The fungus negatively affects the formation of flower buds, which can adversely affect the future harvest.
• Late blight rot. Brown spots appear on the berries, which gradually pass to the entire surface of the berries. The berries themselves acquire a bitter taste and fall off. Dark green spots of irregular shape are formed on the foliage.
• White spot. It manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots on any part of the strawberry bush. Later, the spots turn white. The fungus reduces the productivity of the bushes on which it has developed.

Pests

Pests can destroy the entire crop. They easily overwinter in plants, and in the spring they begin to feed on their juices. Therefore, it is very important to know the signs of their appearance on strawberries after harvest, and what to do to get rid of these pests.

Spider mite

• Nematodes. Small and poorly distinguishable worms that usually live in the soil. They multiply very quickly. They stick to the accessible parts of the plant, feeding on its juices and poisoning with their enzymes. They are very difficult to remove, and in advanced cases it is necessary to change the soil.
• Strawberry mite. Quite a small insect. Hibernates at the base of the leaves. The mite larvae feed on plant sap, after which wrinkles and yellowness appear on them, and then they completely die off.
• Strawberry-raspberry weevil. A small black beetle, only 3 mm long. They overwinter under the remains of foliage. With the onset of warmth, juveniles begin to feed on foliage and buds. With the beginning of flowering, female beetles begin to lay eggs in buds.
• Small black squid. Small black beetles, up to 5 mm long. They hibernate underground, where they lay eggs. Larvae prefer to feed on roots, and young beetles prefer to feed on leaves.

Prevention

The best way to keep pests and insects out of your crops is to take preventive measures.

Strawberry bush structure

• Growing resistant varieties will help protect plants from diseases and pests.
• Compliance with the rules of crop rotation is not without reason considered the main one in the gardening business. You can grow strawberries in one place for no more than 2 years in a row. Then it should be transplanted to another location.
• Most diseases in strawberries are fungal. Therefore, after harvesting, the site can be treated with fungicides for prophylaxis. This is highly recommended if signs of illness have been found.
• Using insecticides will help kill most of the insects that live on plants and feed on their juices. This procedure should be carried out after harvesting, so as not to interfere with flowering and not turn the berries into an inedible poison.
• Weeds are often home to pests and should be removed from the site as soon as possible.

Compliance with these simple rules will help prepare strawberry bushes for wintering, and in the spring, the effort will pay off in the form of a rich harvest. Knowing how strawberries develop after harvest, and what to do (video), after removing all the berries, you can develop an optimal plan for growing these plants.

The strawberries are harvested, but there is still plenty of work on the site. A caring owner will properly prepare the bushes for wintering, carry out the necessary agrotechnical measures.

Processing strawberries in the fall from diseases and pests is the key to a good condition of plants in spring and a rich harvest. Experienced gardeners provide helpful tips on how to care for your strawberry plantation.

Preparing the plantation for winter

Mandatory operations:

• removal of old, dried leaves. Be sure to pick greens affected by spotting, powdery mildew. Take the plucked strawberry leaves away from the beds, burn them so that the infection does not spread. It is important to remove the antennae so that the plant can winter calmly;
• pruning after harvest. Many summer residents agree with the statement that removing part of the leaves is a necessary manipulation. Healing the plant by destroying damaged, dry leaves will benefit the strawberry bushes. During the fruiting period, the volume of nutrients has decreased, the plant needs rest. For this reason, do not give up the autumn pruning of strawberries. Fewer owners disagree with this statement;
• transplanting bushes. The optimal timing for an important operation is once every 3–7 years. If the time has come, it's time to start transplanting the plantation. The first rosette (closest to the mother bush) must be planted: next year, fragrant berries will delight the owners;
• top dressing. Fertilization of the soil is carried out not only in spring and summer, but also in autumn. You will need granules with valuable components from chicken manure or mullein diluted with lukewarm water in a 1:10 ratio. You should not use pure organic matter for feeding: the leaves may burn;
• pest control. For the destruction of pests, prevention of the appearance of strawberry mites, whiteflies, weevils, folk remedies, effective preparations are recommended. Prepare the product according to the instructions, treat all plants and soil. It is important to monitor the concentration of the composition: for strawberries, the consumption rate of insecticides is often lower than when processing apple trees or grapes;
• shelter of bushes for the winter. Mandatory operation for regions with any climate. Suitable materials: dry raspberry sprigs, spruce branches, straw (sometimes mice grow in it), pine and spruce needles. Hay and straw can be used provided that an electromagnetic or is installed on the site. Needles or spruce branches are the best option. In case of frosty winters with little snow, cover the aisle with a thick layer of mulch. You can build a shelter over agrofibre bushes. Spunbond and agrotex materials deserved positive reviews.

Important! Weed control is a must for a strawberry plantation to be in good health. If the owners did not pay enough attention to this operation in the summer, they will have to catch up in the fall. Weeds should not be allowed to calmly overwinter along with strawberry bushes: in the spring it will be difficult to remove cereals. For autumn treatment, herbicides with Lenacil are effective.

Fighting disease

Most often, strawberries are affected by fungal infections:

• gray and black rot;
• powdery mildew;
• brown and white spots.

Timely spraying with effective drugs will prevent infection with dangerous diseases, and will save the plants until spring. Before buying a product, you need to consult with experienced gardeners, listen to the opinion of the sellers of a specialized store. Many drugs and folk remedies have earned positive reviews.

Against powdery mildew

Effective formulations:

• drug Sulfaride. The optimal ratio of components: water - 10 liters, fungicide - 2 tablespoons. Stir the mixture for five minutes, pour into a spray bottle, carefully walk through the beds with strawberries. Treatment of leaves with an effective acarofungicide will prevent the development of a dangerous disease;
• colloidal sulfur. To prepare a solution of 1% concentration, you need to take 100 g of the active substance per 10 liters of lukewarm water;
• potassium permanganate. An excellent option with a milder action is a solution of potassium permanganate of medium strength (saturated pink);
• zinc sulfate solution effective for foliar feeding of strawberries. For 10 liters of water, 20 g of the substance is required;
• topaz drug Is another effective remedy. Penconazole-based systemic fungicide is a concentrated emulsion for preparing a working solution. To treat a strawberry plantation, it is enough to prepare a solution of medium concentration: 1 ampoule of Topaz is needed for 10 liters of water (temperature 30 degrees). The effect after spraying lasts up to two weeks. Windless dry weather is suitable for spraying;
• copper-soap emulsion. Pour 3 liters of water into a bucket, add 200 g of grated laundry soap and 5 g of copper sulfate, stir, pour in another 7 liters of liquid. Mix the finished emulsion thoroughly (4–5 minutes), spray the plants after harvest.

Against gray and black rot, white and brown spots

Effective remedies:

• copper oxychloride. For 10 liters of warm water, 1 tablespoon of the active substance is enough. The greatest effect is noticeable when spraying the composition in spring, after flowering and in autumn, when the crop has already been harvested;
• the drug Nitrofen. Processing is carried out in late autumn. The dark brown paste dissolves well in warm water. The tool is effective not only against rot, scab, but also for the destruction of pests: aphids, ticks. To prepare the working solution, take 10 liters of liquid plus 150 g of the product. Process not only the bushes, but also the soil around them. Gray rot, dangerous leaf spot after spraying with Nitrofen appear extremely rarely;
• universal remedy. It will take 3 tbsp. l. warm sunflower oil, a couple of tablespoons of ordinary vinegar and wood ash, 500 ml of liquid soap plus 10 liters of heated water. Prepare an emulsion of active ingredients, mix with water according to the standard scheme, spray the plants, the soil near the bushes.

Pest control

Effective methods and formulations:

• against a transparent tick. Summer residents positively assess the effect of the drug, Kleschevit and wood ash;
• from and snails. Metaldehyde recommended. 5 g of an effective preparation is enough per square meter of soil;
• from weevils, strawberry beetles,. High efficiency is shown by Aktellik, Intavir, Aktar;
• universal formulations are suitable for combating various types of pests, including the dangerous strawberry nematode. Popular remedies: Urea, Heterofos, Fundazol, Skor, Vitaros;
• from. An effective method is to carefully check leaves and twigs, destroy pests, collect rotten plant parts when preparing strawberry beds for winter;
• against . The danger of defeat is in the active infection of neighboring bushes. When pests appear, remove diseased shoots, burn them. After the destruction of insects, you will have to remove the top layer of soil (the larvae accumulate in this zone), pour it with a decoction of yarrow, red pepper or garlic, add new soil.

Processing time

When preparing strawberries for winter, it is important to consider the variety of berry culture. Experienced summer residents recommend observing the spraying time, depending on how many times the plant bears fruit.

• remontant varieties, the fruiting period of which lasts all summer and part of autumn, should be treated with preparations before wintering;
• process ordinary varieties (Gigantella, Mashenka, Zephyr) in late July - early August, without waiting for cold weather;
• after preventive measures, cover the bushes with special material or coniferous branches to protect them from low temperatures.

Processing strawberries in autumn with the use of effective drugs and folk remedies will reliably protect plants from diseases and pests. You cannot skip the procedures for preparing a strawberry plantation for the winter cold: lack of attention, negligence reduce the yield, allow weeds, pests to manage the beds without hindrance. Infection with fungal infections is dangerous not only for strawberries, but also for the entire area.

If you are growing berries on your site, then you need to know about diseases and pests of strawberries. The video provides information about the autumn processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, when, how and how to process it:

Caring for garden strawberries after picking berries is over is the first stage in preparing bushes for winter. Among gardeners, there is no unequivocal opinion whether it is necessary to prune strawberry leaves during this period. Some consider this procedure, carried out after the harvest, mandatory, others - destructive. If you are in doubt about whether to prune old foliage on strawberry bushes, read this article and find out the gardener's recommendations from the video.

Do I need to prune garden strawberries: the pros and cons

After fruiting is complete, old strawberry leaves fade and die off, gradually ceasing to be of benefit to the plant. In parallel, young foliage grows on the bushes, which is responsible for photosynthesis. At the same time, fruit buds are laid, which will yield a harvest next year. You need to take care of its quality and quantity right away, without postponing this matter until the spring.

Proponents of post-harvest strawberry pruning make the following arguments:

1. After cutting the foliage, nutrients circulate only along the roots and are not spent on green mass. The root system becomes more powerful, stores vitamins and minerals, and this has a positive effect on the berries.
2. The procedure increases the resistance of plants to cold weather.
3. Removing foliage is a rejuvenation and healing of the bush. Pruning relieves strawberries from pests and fungal diseases that can spread to young leaves.

Damaged leaves can be removed after harvest

But the procedure has significant disadvantages:

1. Due to pruning of green mass, the bush develops much longer. In this case, you can forget about the early harvest.
2. Many pests that lived on the leaves fall into the soil. There they winter calmly, practically without fear of frost. It is better if the cold catches insects on the foliage.
3. Fruit buds are destroyed along with the leaves. Only those that appear in the spring will give a crop.

Taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of the procedure, a compromise option will be the best. Experienced gardeners recommend pruning only diseased, damaged leaves. If there are no signs of ailments or traces of pests on them, it is better to leave the beds intact. It is also definitely worth removing dried leaves or those that are covered with spots. Therefore, after the harvest is harvested, you need to carefully examine the bushes and make a decision that is suitable in your case.

Attention! Pruning is not necessary for young plants, but only for those that are at least 2 years old.

Correct pruning of strawberries and other post-harvest procedures

There is no exact timeframe for which the procedure should be planned. Pruning is most common in early August. If the garden strawberry variety is not remontant, then by this time the culture usually completely completes fruiting. For pruning, choose a dry morning or evening when there is no strong sun or rain.

Attention! Pruning remontant varieties is essentially thinning: removing the stems, leaves, and tendrils that thicken the bush.

When shortening the leaves, you need to do this not at the root, but leave the stems 10 cm long. For these purposes, it is best to take a pruner or sharp scissors. It is not recommended to mow greens, even if the strawberry plantation is very large. After all, this can damage young foliage. It is better not to touch the bushes at all or remove old and diseased leaves selectively, manually.

It is necessary to loosen the ground around the bushes

Very carefully, right under the root, you need to cut off the antennae. You can't cut them off with your hands - take the same scissors or pruner. Otherwise, you risk damaging not only the bush, but also its roots. For propagation of the variety, you can leave the first outlet. Remove the rest so that the plant does not waste energy on them.

Attention! After the procedure, carried out after the harvest, strawberries do not need additional pruning for the winter.

After rejuvenating and healing the bushes, loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm. Avoid areas near the roots - work in the aisles. Spill the bushes with potassium permanganate solution. If you notice signs of disease, use Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide.

Be sure to feed your garden strawberries. For these purposes, suitable:

• biohumus;
• pieces of dry manure;
• compost;
• ash (but not in combination with fresh manure);
• ammophoska;
• complex mineral dressing.

Don't fertilize strawberries with chlorine - she doesn't like that. Don't forget about watering. At first, moisten the garden bed about every other day. This way the young foliage will grow back faster, which means your garden strawberries will be protected from frost.

Care for strawberries after harvest: video