When the repair of the ceilings, walls and walls are finished, the floors of the floor base attack comes. If the upwards are rarely looking up, then the floor plinth is always in sight. Therefore, it must be installed flawlessly and firmly fasten on the wall, as it will be subjected to constant influences of the brush of the vacuum cleaner, random hiding legs or when carrying furniture and things. Especially reliably must be fixed external corners.
Mainly applies plinth, made of wood, plastics, MDF, metal, stone and ceramics. Wooden plinth is rarely installed, since to create a beautiful appearance, it requires the ideal evenness of walls, a complex paintwork and expensive (as well as metallic). Plinth from MDF is very continuing. Plinth from stone and ceramics is suitable only for floors made of ceramic tiles, tiles or stone.
Therefore, there was plastic plinth plastic plinth. It is great for floors of laminate, wood, linoleum, carpeting. Cheap and waterproof, easily installed, has a cable-channel for laying wiring, the market is represented by a large range of colors.
Calculation of the required amount of definitions
Outdoor plinth is usually produced with a length of 2.5 m. Before starting the installation of the plinth, it is necessary to calculate the required number of registers. The calculation is performed by the formula, as for the ceiling plinth. You need the perimeter of the room to divide on the length of one rail. This will help you a specialized online calculator.
To eliminate additional joints, you should buy on one rail more, since in addition to the appearance, additional costs will appear for the docking elements, the price for the heels of which can reach the cost of one rail.
Plinth Color Sick
Perhaps the most important when buying a plinth is the choice of its color. When choosing a color in the store, due to the differences in the color temperature of the light sources, it seemed to be suitable for the floor and walls, the color of the baseboard could not be at all. Therefore, picking up the color, you should grab with you to shop wallpapers and floor covering, attaching them to the rake of the plinth, make the choice will be much easier. If the walls or gender painted are painted, then when they are painted, you need to paint a small piece of thick paper or plywood, for the sample, specifically to select the color of the plinth.
Accessories for docking
Plastic plinth is also good because there is special fittings for it, thanks to which there is no high accuracy during sawing. Therefore, the installation of the plinth is under the power of the home master, even not having experience in this matter. Beautiful appearance of the result of the work is provided by the design of the plinth.
The package of plastic plinth accessories includes five elements: the right and left plugs, the docking element of the plinth railtus, internal and outer corners. They in color and texture exactly correspond to the plinth and sold separately.
In the photo external and inner view of the right plug. The left plug is exactly the same, but made in a mirror reflection. Therefore, when calculating the number of fittings, this fact must be taken into account. On the plug, there is a foot with a hole to fasten it with a self-tapping screw on the wall. This element of the accessories is usually installed on the end of the railtus racks at the door of the doors.
The docking element serves to close the gap between the slats of the plinth, when the length of the wall exceeds the length of the same rack of the plinth, usually equal to 2.5 m.
On the photo, the docking element installed on the rail is visible, on the near rail, the decorative plug of the cable channel is not inserted.
In this photo you see an inner corner. It holds without self-tapping screws, by pressing the racks of the plinth. When mounting the plinth, you need to provide the same clamp of the corner, otherwise it can be crooked and it will look careless.
And so arranged from the inside an outer corner. For fastening to the wall, he has two paws. External corners have to be used rarely, but I'm "lucky." It took at the installation of the plinth to install eight such corners.
Organization of workplace
Installing plinths requires constant shift of the place of work, so so that everything you need is desirable to accommodate accessories, fasteners and tool to place in the box and move it.
In the photo, the box office, in the departments of which fittings, dowels, screws and a small tool are unfolded.
Installation of plinth
The installation of an outdoor plinth is the final stage of repairing the room in the apartment and is performed when the ceiling and walls are repaired, the floors are set.
Cutting plinth
Begin to install the plinth from an inner or outer angle or from the door. To do this, the two necessary elements of the accessories are set to the required places, in one of them the end of the rack of the plinth is inserted and the second element is made on the second element, given the fact that the rake of the plinth must enter the angle or a 5 mm stub.
First, it is advisable to install the racks of the plinth that will not need to be cut. It is advisable to envisage that the connecting elements are in places, which will be closed in the future.
If the rack of the plinth cannot be applied at the place of installation due to its larger length, then the ruler measure the distance between the elements of the fittings and the resulting result is added 10 mm. Then, on the rake, the plinth is applied a label for sawing. When laying using a ruler, it is better to add a couple of millimeters of length than to make the plinth in short. Superior can always be sprinkled.
Sawing plinth
The sawing of the plastic plinth is much easier than the cartel, since there is no need to withstand sharp corners. All ends have a straight corner. But nevertheless, if the reiki end is curves, then the inner angles, as they are not fixed, can be established with distortion. Therefore, it is still necessary when sawing to provide a straight end angle of the plinth.
More precisely, it is more convenient and faster to cut the plinth with the metal with the metal, in the device, which is called stupid. If the stub is not available, I advise you to purchase. Stuslo can be made in a couple of hours to make it from the girlfriend, it will even better than cheap purchased from plastics.
The sawing in the stupid guarantees not only the straight corners of the skirting racks, but also makes it possible to cut the segments of the length of only one millimeter.
After fitting the rails on the place, you need to remove the bisps with the ends with the knives from the ends.
Drilling mounting holes in the walls for installation of a plinth
Perhaps the most responsible operation when installing an outdoor basement is the drilling of the holes for its mounting on the wall. The result of the resulting holes is ultimately dependent on the height of the drilled holes.
With smooth walls, the opening is drilled at a distance of 50 cm from each other. From the floor level at a height equal to the distance from the floor level to the middle of the cable channel of the installed plinth. Since it is not necessary to use more power to reliably to hold the plinth, then it is enough to apply a dowel with an outer diameter of 6 mm, a length of 30 mm and a 3.5 × 25 self-tapping screw.
After drilling holes, it is necessary to remove all the dirt that appeared. Convenient for this vacuum cleaner. But you can simply sleep with a brush to the saventes.
Installing the plinth on the wall of plasterboard
If the walls are made of drywall, fixed on a metal frame from profiles, then the fastening line of the plinth can get to the profile, which is usually with a width of 30 to 50 mm. In this case, the plinth is mounted without using a dowel directly screwing self-pressing into the profile wall.
It is sufficient only in the profile to drill the hole with a metal drill with a diameter of a couple of millimeters less than the outer diameter of the self-press. It is extremely desirable to use the conductor mentioned above, as the drill can easily go away from the site of drilling. You can do without drilling if you apply special screws with a drill at the end. To check the possibility of fastening the profile, it is enough to pierce the plasterboard at the level of attachment of the plinth. If shilo rested in the metal, then the dowel will not need.
One of the walls in my hallway was made of drywall on the frame. But I was not lucky, because for the flooring of the linoleum, the floor was aligned with plywood and the level did not rise a few centimeters. Therefore, the mounting line of the plinth was higher than the frame profile. I had to use a dowel specially designed for fastening on plasterboard walls, called the "Butterfly".
To note, one dowel "Butterfly", mounted in a plasterboard wall withstands the load to 10 kilograms. Therefore, with it, it is possible to securely secure on the wall not only the plinth, but also the TV, shelves, paintings, mirrors and other household items.
To install a dowel "Butterfly" into the wall of plasterboard, you must first drill a hole in it, providing a dense landing of a dowel in the wall. You can drill any drill using the conductor. Next, you must press the protruding parts of the rod of the dowel to each other, so it is easily inserted into the wall hole. It remains to apply a dowel with a slight blows with a hammer and can be started to fasten the plinth.
It should be noted that the diameter of the self-pressing must be slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole in the dowel cap, the length of the self-press should be no less than the length of the compressed dowel, since the self-tapping screw is not screwed into the dowel head, but in its movable end.
Fastening the plinth on the wall
Some masters offer first to drill holes in the rackets of the plinth and already drill the wall using a dowel with hats. But this method cannot guarantee the accuracy of the installation of the plinth and in any case, even at diligence, there are cracks in some places.
If necessary, for example, when laying behind the cable plinth or replacement of linoleum, dismantling the plinth attached in this way will be very complex. In addition, the plinth will remain dust and crumb from drilling, which I consider unacceptable. Therefore, I use how you already understood, another way of fastening, guaranteeing high quality of work.
Holes for self-sneakers in the plinth are best not drilled, but to pierce with a seboard. As sewed, I use an old screwdriver, the blade of which is sharpened to the triangular edge. When the edge rotates, the sewn spreads the material, which makes the edges of the opening more dense. In Soviet times, the tool was made from instrumental steel, which possessed high hardness and at the same time not fragile. Therefore, sewing from the screwdriver serves me for many years, it does not stand and breaks. And thanks to the presence of faces, the hole can be done without a drill even in plywood.
To get the hole in the right place of the plinth, you need to attach it to the wall to the installation site. In the center of the cable channel, apply a label, push off a little plinth from the wall so that the dowel is visible, and pierce the hole by the label strictly along the dowel location. Now it will only remain to complete the self-tapping screw, which has been done through the hole made in the dowel, and the plinth will be securely and accurately fixed on the wall.
Installing External Plinth Corners
The external corners of the plinth are often in the zone of the intensive movement of people and the likelihood of their hook is large. Therefore, to fasten the external corners, you need to come true with full responsibility. Since the corners are mounted on the wall just two centimeters from the angle, then the drilling of the hole for the dowel can be a corner. Therefore, it is necessary at the repair stage when aligning the external corners of the walls, it is possible to provide the possibility of reliable fixing the external corners of the plinth. If the profile is not used when aligning the angles of walls, it is possible to lay on the floor only a segment of at least 20 cm in the zone of the future attachment of the block of the plinth.
If the perforated corner profile is laid in advance, it will only remain a selection to pierce the plinth and the tice of the profile and screw the short screws with a thread that dwells to the hats itself. For reliable retention, the corner is preferably under the self-sustain to put the washer. Self is easier to spin it, if you hold it with tweezers with bent ends.
The fastening of the external corners of the plinth on the walls from drywall is performed according to the same technology, since the sheets of drywall are usually attached to the metal profile, and the screws are usually screwed into it.
It remains only to install decorative plugs cable channel. For this, the plug bends, the ends of it are triggered for the accessories, after which it straightens and refills to the cable-channel.
Well, they rested and it's time to take a job. It's time to engage in plinths. Plotus is, of course, a trifle, but without it can not do, they make the interior more harmonious and finished. Now everything is increasingly included in the trend a high painted plinth, so we wanted the same
What we wanted
Promontential market, found out disappointing moments: First, it is difficult to buy such a plinth, and secondly, its price per meter depends on the height and starts from 400 rubles. For me, it is very expensive for such, it would seem, a simple thing, so we decided to experiment - make it yourself
Maybe someone will seem wild to make plinth itself, but on the other hand, it is just a board of the desired height and width, well, a decorative element. Inspiration served here these pictures from the network:
Another example
Well, is it really nothing complicated?! Let's try ...
... And we have tried for almost 2 years ago, when we made repairs in the nursery, the result did us, so we already knew that in the kitchen, we will tell you))
We are going to the construction market
For the manufacture of high plinth, as already mentioned above, boards and corners are needed. We will only apply a plinth part of the wall (here we are lazy, or economical), our "perimeter" was 7.5 meters, and in the acquire:
- Boards 24x120x2000 - 4pcs, you need to choose carefully, because They are not all perfectly smooth and smooth;
- Corner decorative rail 20x20x2200 - 4pcs;
Also need:
- White acrylic enamel;
- Brush;
- Self-tapping screw;
- Nails with huts
- Plastic dowel;
- Saw for stuslo
- Stuslo, Sasha decided to please himself and bought the most expensive model;
- Wood putty;
- Skar;
Preparatory work
To begin with, all the boards must lie in the room and "acclimatize", ideally for a week. But we have forgotten safely about this rule)))
Fitting
We wanted white plinths, for this they need to be painted. You can paint after installation, but it's more convenient for me to do it.
The first layer was primer - spread the paint 1: 1
Water in the paint raises the pile of wood, so grinding
When the board became smooth, you can start painting. I need to overlap the wood texture as much as possible, but save the relief. It employs the main rule of painting - a few thin layers instead of one thick. For the desired result, I needed 3 layers.
Starting with the ends
At the junction of layers
Another layer
Difficulties arose from the painting corner, and indeed not successful they fell away - many bumps and burrs. In the primer, the paint scored relief, so after drying it was necessary to smoke it from the recesses. I decided to rebound after the installation.
Installation
The next day, when the paint dried, we started installing.
At first they decided in what places there will be joints. Because We have a wall of 4.2 meters, and 2m boards, we decided to make a whole board in the center of the wall, and on the sides of the boards 1.1m.
I very, very, I regretted it - Toli saws fucked, or the board is very thick, in general, one speaker did 15-20 minutes. But done! It's good that there are only 2 corners))
Angle under 45 0
Fitting to the wall
Sasha was attacking the boards on the self-tapping screw: stated where to trim 4-5 points on the board, then drilled thin guide holes. Applying the board to the wall, through the holes in the board placed on the wall of the room for the holes. He drilled hole holes in the wall, scored a dowel and screwed the planks to the wall.
Guide hole
Hole for dowel
Breeping to the wall
Passed
Because of the irregularities in the corner, the board did not want to lay down to the wall, had a little sile on the contour of irregularities. All the same, the gap remained, but nothing, covered.
Safety Plinth Under the Relief Wall
Cracks are almost not visible
krepim to the GK wall immediately on the self-tapping screw without a dowel
Worker confusion
When Sasha finished, I covered all the gaps, irregularities and hats of selflessness, and then sank surplus and irregularities. Now I came to the turn of the corners, they attach them to finish nails.
Corner is nailed to the board, it is impossible to penetrate to the floor!
In the Soviet Union, the plinth was only wooden, they were installed quite simply - with the help of hammer and nails. Panel houses had plinth from cement mortar. In our time, the plastic plinth also appeared.
And yet the most ancient and reliable edging option is a wooden plinth. A rich in Russia Rus has long applied this material in construction. Today, a wooden plinth, so to speak, the classic of the Slavic housework is very widely in demand, since, with all the positive properties of plastic, the tree is a living, breathable natural material, looks very good and easy to operate.
What tree make plinths from?
Choosing according to GOST, we will most likely have a pine article. After all, pine is a wonderful material for construction, it has excellent characteristics. But this is not the only one in its kind, from which you can make plinths.
Let's start with the fact that the plinth must be perceived visually as a flat line, which is like half the floor. In order for this line to be really smooth, the material from which the product is made should be even. That is, the tree, which was allowed on the plinth, should not be subject to deformation under the influence of high humidity. In other words, it is extremely undesirable to "twist".
Sustainable breed moisture - conifers, such as pine, spruce, tees, fir, larch. They are not exposed to strain, if they grow in places of high humidity, and also do not crack when dried. Therefore, they are very convenient for mounting, easily processed.
Deciduous rocks - such as nuts, linden, cherry, very soft, are subject to deformation, so they are not suitable for construction. Hard deciduous trees - Grab, Oak, Kleon, are able to crack when drying, and they are processed, mounted difficult, due to their increased hardness.
By material, all plinths are classified as follows:
- plastic (thin-walled or foamed);
- veneered (outside the thin veneer from the valuable tree of the tree, and the basis is coniferous wood;
- wooden (an array of one tree of wood);
- laminated MDF (base - MDF, outside the film with a pattern of stone or wood);
- others (ceramics, metal, polyurethane, etc.)
Molding methods:
- with the help of clips;
- self-pressing or finishing nails;
- glue;
- hidden fasteners in the cable channel.
On a decorative layer:
- wood pattern (natural or imitation);
- monotonous color;
- identary flooring (wood, imitation carpet, etc.)
According to the degree of flexibility:
- hard (metal, wood, ceramics, plastic, polyurethane);
- medium (thin-walled plastic, plastic cable-channel);
- flexible plinth (special types).
Installation of wooden plinth
The installation of such a plinth is impossible without basic skills in construction. After all, the tree is not plastic, and it is not easy to work with him. And yet, if you wish, installing wooden plinths, with your own hands, it can quite be on the shoulder, the main thing is to do everything according to the instructions.
First, we define what tools and materials need to install a wooden plinth, and they need quite a lot:
- stuslo;
- construction corner;
- wood hacksaw;
- roulette;
- hoven on a tree with a thin blade;
- screwdriver;
- self-tapping screw;
- pencil;
- electric drill;
- wooden plinth;
- dowel (if we are fixed to plasterboard, then "butterflies";
- countersink;
- long nail.
Installing a wooden plinth on a wall of brick
The first, very important rule: Install the plinth only with the beginning of the second day after the purchase. This time will take that new plinths are "accustomed" to the new room: dried, adapted to the new temperature regime, "got acquainted" with the level of humidity of this room. If the new plinth produced from a raw tree, if it is not good enough, after installation, it may be "stories", and all work will be spoiled.
But now the day, finally, passed, the plinth adapted, you can install it. Where to start work? As a rule, from the inner corner of the room. We do primarily measurements. We measure the wall from the angle to the angle, its length. Next, we carry sizes on a wooden plinth and mark the place where you need to cut. We set the construction corner in the desired position and carry out a flat line, separating the unnecessary part of the plank. The high-quality docking of the plinth occurs when their ends are trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees. To measure and cut off very smoothly, apply a stub. This simple tool helps to cut the items that we need. You can also trim the plinth on circular saw.
Measured, now cut off with a tree with a tree. Next - dusting. If everything is correctly measured and cut off at the right angle, everything should lie well. But sometimes it happens that after measuring and cutting off in the corner, there is still a noticeable gap, since the corner of the room itself, it turned out to be uneven, poor-quality. Yes, not always the corners of the room, have 90 degrees, sometimes 87, and 93. This happens when during the construction of the building - the bookmark of the foundation or construction of the walls - diagonal was broken. Do not throw away the plinth and do not be discouraged: because the small slot can be covered. Well, and the gap can also be removed if you carry the face of the plinth to the minimum sizes of the gap. Such a fitting of the joints can be made of a simple grinder.
The appearance of the plinth directly depends on how correctly they are fixed, as well as those tools that you have in stock for mounting. For example, a tool called the Zenkovka helps to make a recess for the hats of self-press, which allows you to hide it at all.
By the way, initially uneven corners of the room are somewhat different than those that do not deviate from universal standards. In this case, a plinth stick is put together between the wall and the floor to the corner, closer to the dock on the floor on the plinth, the drawing line. This operation is done for each angle separately from two sides. After that, we cut the piece of the required length and make the markup at the end of the rail.
The top point can serve as the upper angle of the stick, which is moistened into the opposing wall. The lower point is a marking line on the floor, perpendicular to the plinth, which we are placing. We connect these points with the line and cut the bar at an angle of 90 degrees to the floor. Neat slice usually does not give slots. In relation to the length of the wall, the length of the plinth, which we cut, should be maximum. Only in this case they docile tightly and beautiful.
If the entire length of the room is installed two strips of the plinth, the connection is also performed at an angle of 45 degrees so that the smooth junction in the middle is not in the eye. If one plinth was enough for the whole length, then the other end is adjusted at the corner at the same size. Let's focus on this in more detail.
Not always one length of the plinth is enough to stretch it from the wall to the wall. Sometimes two, three segments, and between them also need a strong and beautiful docking. Corners cut under 90 degrees here. It is not suitable. The cut is needed at an angle of 45g degrees, such a joint, if it is made neatly and processed by sandpaper, will not be visible at all.
By the way, the quality of both angular and intermediate docking depends largely on how high-quality product itself. The plinth must be the same in all its thickness, it should not be bitch, jar in places of connection.
Fastening a wooden plinth to the wall
Place the wall where the fastener dowels will be placed. The procedure is very simple. As a rule, a wooden plinth is attached about 50 cm - this is if the wall is smooth, and if not very, you can fix it more often.
Then, using the markup made, we drill holes in which a plastic dowel will be placed - that are used if the wall is made of brick. If the wall is made of drywall, the attachment of the plinth is carried out on self-drawing or dowels "Butterfly".
The fastening process is also quite simple. We take into account only some moments. One of them - the bar can only be fixed after a thorough adjustment of the joints. It is very important to observe the right depth of the holes under the dowel, it should be deeper the length of the dowel itself not more than 1 cm. For an accurate resulting, wrap the drill with a tape to the designated hole depth. On the plinth, you also need to drill the deepening for the heads of dowel screws, the screws, so that they are not visible on the plinths. For such recesses, the drill is taken, which is a little more diameter than the attachment hat. Or for such holes, such a tool as a zenkovka is used.
After that, fasten a well-hot plinth on the perimeter of the room. All is ready! Getting Started with putty, varnishing or painting a wooden plinth, pre-cleaved the surface from contamination and dust. So that the varnish does not hit the floor and wallpaper, you should cover them with something.
We described the method of fastening the wooden plinth to the brick wall.
How to make the installation of a wooden plinth on the walls of plasterboard.
- First, the pencil is measuring the place on the wall, where the self-tapping screws will be carried out by mounting the plinth. However, this procedure is not so obligatory, it is quite possible to do without it.
- Marking launched on the wall is transferred to a wooden bar.
- Drills holes in the bar, for this, be sure to use a wooden board, which we put under the bar as a support and not to spoil the flooring. The diameter of the hole cannot exceed the thickness of the nails, which we will use, so very carefully measure the diameter of the drill.
- Next, take the Zenkovka and make small recesses in the holes done. As already written above, such deepening will serve in order that the self-pressing hat is completely immersed in the plinth.
- Change the drill on the appropriate bit, carefully fix the plinth by self-draws.
Breeping wooden plinth to the concrete wall.
- Drills the hole in the plinth according to the technology mentioned above.
- We apply the plinth to the wall, insert into the holes that have just been done, a long nail. Being on it several times: you need one strong or several weak blows with a hammer in a nail. The result of this procedure is obvious: a trail remained on the concrete wall. That's right, because the purpose of this action does not break through the wall, but only make a track from the nail on it.
- Focusing on this low-rise church on the wall, we drill the hole of the desired diameter using the electric drill.
- In the well-done hole score a dowel.
- We establish a wooden plinth and alternately screw the desired number of screws.
Fastening outdoor plinth on inner corners.
- Create a layout of the plank, scuffing from a wooden plinth a couple of centimeters.
- The layout lean the edge to the plinth and supply the outlines of his end to the pencil.
- With a tree hacksaw, having a thin blade, carefully cut the material, repeating all the contour features.
- Make the accuracy of cutting before installing the plinth, building an internal angle from the planks.
How to fix an outdoor wooden plinth on external corners
- Install the plinth in the intended location and reflect the outer angle of the wall on the bar.
- We establish a wooden plinth in the stub, cutting at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Check the accuracy of cutting.
- Finally install the plinth by fixing them with the help of screws.
Fastening a wooden plinth to the floor
You can mount the plinth to the wall, and it is possible to the floor. How it's done? Pretty simple - nails. Sometimes even it is even easier to kilgle it than to the wall, as the tree to the tree is easier to attach. It is only necessary to try to prevent slots between the plinth and the wall (just in this case, the slots between the plinth and the floor are completely excluded), which may arise from the irregularities of our typical walls and floors.
In this case, the nails are clogged into the floorboards through the rack of the plinth approximately at an angle of 70-80 degrees to the floor. Well, if in the floor, the nail will not be able to score, if it is too solid or too fragile coating, then, of course, we use the methods described above: you feed the wooden plinth to the wall.
Installing the plinth on finishing nails
You can attach a wooden plinth for finishing nails. Such installation is similar to the installation of self-assembly, only instead of the last finish nails are used, and instead of dowels - pieces of wood.
Such a fastener has both its advantages over other types and restrictions. The advantage of undoubtedly can be called a practically invisible place of attachment. But nails are smooth, and some varieties of wood can over time
crack. If the plinth is mounted in a strained state as a result of uneven walls or floor, then the likelihood is that or nails, or wooden dowels may not withstand such a load.
Also, there are limitations of installation by nails - for example, it is completely excluded if the walls are made of drywall, or very loose walls. And in that, in another case, on such a surface, a wooden dowel will not hold on.
Self-tapping screws that are often used today instead of nails, in many cases apply more efficient than nails. After all, the self-sufficiency is easily hiding in the plinth, after which the hole is closed with a spheolder of the type "Liquid Tree".
A little about decorating slots
The gaps, often formed at the joints of two slats, as well as between the floor and the plinth, or between the wall and the plinth, can be decorated with color spatlets and sealant in the tone of the tree. How to do it?
Close a paper scotch surface that borders with a slit (floor or wall), then apply a decorating composition by pressing it with a spatula in the gap. Remove the tape immediately - if you leave it for a few days, it will be much hard to shoot it.
Among the set of plinths that differ in their design, color, form, texture, there is a model with a decorative insert in the middle, which serves not only for beauty, but also in order to hide fasteners. A wooden insert is glued on top of the excavation.
The lack of a wooden floor plinth is that it is not tightly pressed against the uneven surface, it needs a thorough, neat fit: measurements, circumcision and stooling. After all, even if the floor is even, it does not always happen the wall. Often for this reason you have to give up wooden products and put plastic. Well, and plastic although it is adjusted almost perfect, but it is alien, inanimate, lifeless energy, which is in the tree, there is no.
Aesthetic side of the installation of wooden plinths
Not for the entire wooden plinth, it cuts, certain standards apply. So, for example, a wide wooden plinth will give your dwelling more comfortably due to the fact that visually closes the floor. White plinth will benefitly emphasize the cleanliness of the room. And it is not at all necessary that the color of the wooden plinth coincides with the floor or walls. Always a special charm of the room gives a color game that definedly affects a person, his globility, energy, psyche.
I would like to note that coniferous woods that are used for the manufacture of plinth will be beneficial to our body. In our age, high percent of allergic, cardiovascular and other diseases that often arise due to environmental pollution, it is impossible to breathe truly fresh air, since chemistry is present everywhere. All these factors speak in favor of only natural, environmentally friendly products and materials, one of which is a wooden plinth.
Installation of the plinth is the final stage of the floor finish. Accordingly, it is worth producing it only after the finishing works of the walls and the laying of the floor covering are completed. You can put the plinth on your own without resorting to the help of specialists from the side.
First, it should be noted that the plinth is wooden and plastic. Moreover, the latter slowly displaces an environmentally friendly tree in the market of finishing materials. Since plastic is more popular, consider first the methods of installation of such products.
There is a plastic plinth plastic from two parts. So to speak, bottom, and top (facial). Before starting the installation, these two parts are disconnected, and the preparatory work is carried out using only the lower part.
Step 1: Purchase of Material
First of all, you need to measure the length of all walls in the room where the plinth is planned. The resulting number it is worth adding one and a half or two meters "about the supply", and then split all this by 2.5. So you will receive the number of planks you need to buy. By 2.5, they divide because it is so much (in meters) is the standard length of one pilot strip.
In addition, the connecting elements, corners and plugs will be needed. They (plugs), by the way, there are right and left. This should also be taken into account when counting the required quantity.
Stage 2: Tool Preparation
To work, you will need:
- Stuslo
- Handsman with small teeth
- Drill or puncher
- Screws and dowels
Stage 3: Slicing Plinth
In order to cut the plinth under the desired angle, it is necessary to use the stupid - a special device, significantly facilitating this difficult process. It is necessary to use it as follows: put the panel of the plinth so that the side that after installation is coming to contact the floor, pressed against the wall of the stouch, and the side that will touch the wall lay on the base of the stus. After you put the plinth on it in this way, with the help of the knife, it is necessary to cut off the desired part, focusing on the slots on the stouch. The next panel is cut in the same way, only in mirror reflection.
Stage 4: Marking
Topping the plinth is needed from the angle adjacent to the longest wall of the room.
We put on the plinth corner and apply to the wall. At a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the corner, we make a mark (pencil) for the first hole. The remaining marks are made every 40 centimeters. If the wall is uneven, then the mark should be made for 5-10 centimeters before the place where the plinth with the wall forms the gap. Thus, it is necessary to place the entire perimeter of the room.
Stage 5: Installation
Next, we take a drill and drill holes in the wall through the lower part of the plinth, with which we work, according to pre-applied marks. After that, we remove the product from the wall, we collect the dust formed with a vacuum cleaner (and in the holes too), and in the resulting holes insert a dowel.
Apply the plinth again. And with the help of a drill in the screwdriver mode, it is fettered by the lower part of it with screws on a pre-prepared place. Everything. It remains only to establish the upper half of the plinth on its rightful place. By the way, you can spend one under it, or several cables (depending on the plinth model). This provides special cable channels.
Wooden Plinth Styling Features
Installation of such a plinth has features.
Fitting
Wooden plinths are not used corners. Therefore, the process of fitting the plinth in the corners becomes more time-consuming. Since the corners in our apartments rarely have the perfect 90 degrees, after trimming the wooden product on the stouch, you need to manually adjust it under the features of your particular room. Ideal dusting will not achieve anyway, so we recommend using color sealants and putty on wood tone.
Marking and installation
Marking is performed in the same way as when working with plastic plinths. But then there should be a little other actions.
- On the markup, you should screw the screws in the plinth until they appear from the opposite side. Then tightly press the plinth to the wall until marks from these very screws on it. Next, you need to designate these pencil marks and drill holes on them in the wall. After that, it remains inserted into the holes of the dowel, install the plinth on its rightful place and tighten the screws to the end.
- Preference is worth paying self-reserves with the smallest diameter of the Hats at the most possible length. Since fasteners will be visible in any case, it is worth making them at the same distance from each other. So they, at least, will look harmonious.
- Instead of self-screws, you can use finish nails. In this case, the dowel must be wooden. Such nails are almost invisible in fasteners, but they have limitations of use. In the walls of drywall or loose concrete, wooden dowels simply can not be held.
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