because of key features movement of nutrients, you need to trim the peach so that it looks like a bush. This will make it possible for all shoots to also receive a sufficient amount of sunlight, and therefore it is not worth growing near the garden, because a peach is not like that.

In the spring, the main pruning of the tree is carried out, but in the summer or autumn - additional. Separately, it is worth dwelling on the benefits of pruning your trees:

• The main task is to extend the period of productivity and decorativeness of the tree;
• Keeping shrubs and trees healthy;
• In some cases, cropping results in early flowering and fruiting;
• Balancing the root system and shoots.

Carrying out work, pay great attention to the number of fruiting shoots... So, if there are a lot of them, the skeletal branches will be overloaded, leaves and buds will begin to fall off. It is best to cut off the shoots so that two or three "eyes" remain on them, and the uppermost shoot is left without a top, which will lead to the growth of side branches.

Pay attention to the nature of fruiting, because the number of mixed branches depends on this indicator.

If the peach yields good fruits, about 80 branches are left on the tree, if there are few fruits, you can leave more - about 150 shoots.

What types of pruning are there: which is preferable?

The peach should be pruned from the first year after planting. However, it should be noted that the procedure may differ at different stages of maturation. For example, in a one-year-old seedling, all shoots must be removed, except for the 4 main ones, which are located at the bottom of the trunk; the remnants of the shoots, together with the guide, must be removed. In the second year, you need to choose several shoots, cut them off by 25-30%, the next season about six new branches will grow from them, suitable for fruiting.

Shoots growing in the middle of the bush should either be removed or cut strongly to allow the sun's rays to better reach the center of the plant. Shoots that grow horizontally are also completely cut out. The tools used (hacksaw, saw or garden shears for young shoots) must be cleaned and sharpened before work.

In the future, these works are divided into several types, about which you should also know everything:

• Pruning fruiting shrubs. A peach “lays down” a lot of flower buds: from one tree it will be possible to collect about a thousand peaches, but they will be small and not juicy. It is better if you collect about 300 fruits, but they are of high quality and tasty. If we are dealing with a fruit-bearing tree, then we need to thin out and shorten the shoots, removing those branches that darken the crown. In addition, this will lead to an increase in the lower part, due to which the level of bare tree will decrease, and the fruits will not move to the upper part of the crown;
• : substitution scheme. Some branches with flower “eyes” need to be shortened by 30% of their total length, and growth shoots are removed almost “at the root”: about 3 buds should remain on them. In the next season, new shoots grow from them, one of which “goes” for replacement, the second for fruiting;
• Anti-aging work. Normal fruiting is noted in the first ten years after planting, then the productivity of the tree slowly decreases... But it can be returned if work is carried out to "rejuvenate" the peach. So, you need to remove all old shoots, drying out and diseased branches, but young branches are left - it is they who will begin to bear fruit in the future;
• "Treatment" of sick and damaged peach trees. It is very important that every spring you check every tree in your garden to remove any shoots damaged by the winter frost. During the same period, dry branches are cut, one-year shoots are also cut short enough - up to the first three buds. In the summer, you can see if the trees have died. If so, it is a pity that they will have to be uprooted.

How to prune peaches in spring: saplings

By the way, working with young trees is much more difficult, because there is a high probability of accidental removal of fruiting branches. And if you carry out the “surgical procedure” correctly, you can increase the yield by the next season.

But for this you need to follow some important rules:

• If a young seedling has new shoots (up to 10 pieces), safely remove the central conductor;
• When planting a tree in the ground, we leave a maximum of four shoots that grow at the bottom of the trunk - the rest of the shoots are cut off;
• All branches located in the center of the tree should be cut short after the third year.

You should also take as a basis enough important nuance: horizontal branches are removed, because they will not bear fruit, while the central shoots should be located at an angle of 45 ° to the ground. Knowing how to prune a peach in the spring can not only make all the trees in the garden the same shape, but also increase fruiting several times.

Peach in our region is becoming more and more popular tree... Since its fruits are large, tasty and extremely healthy. But, unfortunately, for most amateur gardeners, the attempt to grow this fruit tree ends in failure. Since in order for a representative of this type of stone fruit to grow well, bear fruit efficiently and not get sick, it needs a good and timely care. Abundant watering, fertilizing and proper pruning - its main aspects. It is important that the formation of the peach tree is carried out immediately after planting, as this procedure is the basis for creating the correct fruiting crown.

Peach is a specific plant, in the matter of pruning it, you need to understand all the processes occurring in the tree, and also know which branches can be removed and which cannot. You can't cut off everything. The formation of a young peach is a very responsible procedure, therefore, if you are new to this business and do not know much about it, we advise you to turn to professionals.

Young peach

Sometimes produced shaping a peach bush - This type of crown does not have a central conductor and consists of 3-4 main branches that grow in the lower part of the tree. This factor provides a sufficient amount of light to the branches, and in case of freezing of the trunk, there will always be spare trunks.

Pruning and shaping the peach after planting produced immediately. If a plant was taken from the nursery, which has from 5 to 8 shoots, then only skeletal shoots are left, the rest are removed, and the central conductor is pinched. A young seedling does not grow much in the first year of life, so the shoots are not shortened much, up to 3-4 buds.

Peach seedling shaping is best done in early springwhen the active process of sap flow has not yet begun. At this time, the plant can be well prepared for the next year. In summer, cutting off branches is not recommended, because the leaves of a young plant accumulate useful substances that are necessary to maintain good condition.

Below is the formation of a peach for you, photo:

Adult peach

If you need to put in order an already existing old plant of this kind, then you should resort to anti-aging pruning. By removing unnecessary branches of the tree, you will give it a second life and it will again begin to bear fruit with high quality.

Those shoots that grow inside the crown are removed or strongly cut to better lighting the middle of the crown. In this case, the formation of a peach crown is reduced to cutting a large number branches thickening the crown. It is imperative to remove the sick, dry and lower non-fertile.

Feature of this fruit tree is that he only last year's growths bear fruit... Therefore, its shoots should not be allowed to grow strongly, but should be pruned all the time so that the growths of earlier years do not stand naked.

If, after reading our article, you still do not understand how to handle trees, order a garden care service from us. Forming a peach with a column, bush, bowl - you can choose any option you want. We will do our best to make your garden beautiful, well-groomed and healthy.

One of the must-haves for tree care is peach pruning in spring, summer and fall. The tree needs maximum light, but builds up the ground part intensively. As a result, the crown thickens due to the branches without a crop, there is not enough light. Pruning adjusts the shape of the tree and removes fatty undergrowth. The forces of the tree are directed to the formation of the crop.

What caused the choice of crown shape

Peach is a thermophilic tree. With the help of the achievements of breeding, varieties have been obtained that have advanced into middle lane Russia and the Trans-Urals. However, the tree is unable to withstand stable frosts without shelter - the branches freeze over, the roots are affected. If the tree is covered early, the bark will undermine. In the moments of winter thaws, sap flow can begin in the middle of winter.

It depends on the climatic features how to properly cut the peach, which crown shape to choose:

1. The cup-shaped tiered crown is used in areas with a warm climate and mild winters.
2. The formation of a "fruit link" creates a creeping stem of two skeletal branches that bear fruit alternately. Planting thickened, called in another way "meadow garden", used in cold climates under the shelter.
3. The shape of the bush represents some of the most developed shoots from the ground, which are cut out after they have borne. This form of peach is often used in the Moscow region.

The timing of peach pruning in spring depends on the climatic features of the region. In cold winters, when there is a danger of frostbite, the first pruning from spring is transferred to the time when the leaves have blossomed - it becomes clear how much the affected branches need to be cut.

Tree formation tasks

Pruning is done to increase the yield of the tree and extend its productive life. Nutrientsextracted by roots from the soil are distributed evenly along the trunk. In this case, branches without fruit grow faster, thickening the crown. The tree inside is bare, and the harvest is minimal. If young twigs do not grow, fruiting will stop.

Pruning is done in order to:

• improve the lighting and ventilation of the tree;
• facilitate harvesting;
• stimulate the formation of fruitful shoots;
• remove old branches, rejuvenating the tree;
• give the desired shape to the crown.

There are several types of pruning, each of which is performed at a specific time. The ground part is formed from several types of growth: growth generative and annual bouquet branches. Mixed and spinning tops are also branches, but you can't wait for a harvest from them.

Pruning peaches in the spring forms a stem of the desired shape from the seedling, before the start of fruiting and in subsequent years. During the entire growing season, sanitary pruning is carried out - the removal of frost-beaten or broken branches. Thinning of the peach tree, removal of fattening branches belongs to the same type. forms a crown young tree and shortens some of the fruit-bearing branches so that new shoots develop on them. This is called form trimming.

Pruning peaches in spring is the most crucial period for beginner gardeners. It is impossible to be late, with strong sap flow, the operation is not done. It is necessary to form a tree according to the scheme, thinning out, but leaving fruitful shoots with buds. Of course, vertical branches growing on skeletal branches at a distance of 1 meter from the tree trunk should be removed per ring. It happens, with a very sparse lower tier, such branches are rejected by gradual pruning on the outer peephole. The effect is complemented by pulling the branch down with a rope.

If old branches give little growth, they are removed with anti-aging pruning. It is important that rejuvenation is carried out over several years, gradually. You cannot cut a lot of wood at the same time, the tree will die.

The sequence of formation of various types of crowns

Pruning is carried out in dry weather. At the same time, the root growth is removed.

The scheme of pruning a peach in a bowl is typical for giving a spreading shape, adjustable upward growth.

When planting a seedling, all branches on the trunk are removed 50 cm from the ground. Leave 3-4 branches, which will be skeletal for the lower tier. Pinch the top growth point. The next spring, the grown shoots are shortened by a third, branches of the second order are formed on them. In the third year, all branches growing in depth, or horizontally, are removed on this tier.

As it grows, a second tier of 5 skeletal branches is formed, but the tip is constantly trimmed to limit growth. But she is left with 2 kidneys. A properly formed tree after 5 years has 2 fruit tiers, sparse branches and growth of no more than 3 meters.

When the crown is being formed by the bush, there is no central conductor. The design of the bush is carried out from 4 lower branches as soon as the seedling is placed in place. This planting guarantees quick recovery, even if some of the wood freezes. The bush has enough light, as there are few branches. In summer, such twigs are pinched by 30-40 cm to create a new wave of growth of young shoots for next year's harvest.

The formation of the fruit link is a creeping form, the twigs are easy to cover for the winter. Peaches are planted densely - 2x0.5 m, in order to get no more than 15 fruits from each tree. The first year the peach is allowed to grow and gain strength. In the spring, the seedling is pruned, leaving 2 branches close to the ground. One branch will yield a crop, the second - a safety one. They are changed every year.

In the summer, one branch is covered with young fruit branches, which will yield a harvest. On the second, the branches are pruned. On each of the branches, 2 branches are left, closest to the trunk, to continue the development of the tree. After harvesting, the old branch is cut off. During this time, the branches of replacement have grown. It turns out a creeping bush.

Formative summer peach care

Summer is a period when weekly grooming with pinching, pinching or removing 10 cm of shoots can reduce the trauma from pruning in autumn and spring.

Pruning peaches in summer is the most gentle operation. Only in summer is it visible if there are frostbitten branches on the tree. It is necessary to remove them, the wood is no longer able to support sap flow. In the summer, young shoots are harvested that grow inside the crown. When the fruit pours up to 1 cm in cross section, it is necessary to remove the extra ovaries. It is considered correct if mature tree has 80 plentifully fruiting branches or 200 infertile. The fewer fruits on the tree, the larger and sweeter they will be. Summer peach pruning regulates the yield and prevents thickening of the tree.

Autumn tree pruning

After harvesting, they begin to prepare for rest. Until November, the tree gradually decreases sap flow. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove the broken branches, shortening part of the fruiting branches. At this time, the movement of sap is less, the wounds do not get wet, and the tree does not receive severe stress.

Peach pruning in the fall takes place from September to 15 October. It is not worth tightening, each trimming weakens the tree. He needs to go strong into the winter.

Only taking care of the peach during the entire growing season forms the correct crown with the least stress. Each trimming is a surgical operation associated with the introduction of diseases into an open wound.

A new way to prune peaches in summer - video

The peach is pruned like grapes. Without this, the plant will grow, forming great amount shoots and small tasteless fruits. An emaciated peach with a thickened, poorly ventilated crown does not winter well and is easily affected by diseases that first cause gum flow on the trunk and skeletal branches, and then the death of the plant. That is why this culture is considered capricious and short-lived.

IN young age all peach pruning should be aimed at crown formation, it is necessary to grow strong skeletal branches and overgrown shoots, which will bear fruit.

Peach is not characterized by periodicity, because it gives a crop both on annual growths and on two-three-year-old bouquet branches.

Therefore, our task is to ensure this growth by maintaining optimal illumination inside the crown and regulating fruiting. From the abundance of forms, it is better to choose a cup-shaped or improved-cup-shaped one.

Peach pruning work

The cup-shaped crown is characterized by the presence of 3-4 skeletal branches extending practically from one point of the trunk. An angle of 90 to 120 should be maintained between them. The improved cupped formation differs in that the skeletal branches are at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other; it is believed that such a "skeleton" of a peach is much stronger. In addition, the crown provides the best air and light conditions, which means that the peaches will be larger and tastier.

Vase-like (cupped) crown: a - pruning after planting; b - in the spring of the second year; c - in the spring of the third or fourth year; d - in the spring of the fifth year.

Many consider peach to be a short-lived crop, but this is not the case. It's all about correct agricultural technology. here in the first place.

Fruit high Quality can only be on strong branches. therefore most of young underdeveloped branches are cut into a ring or two buds from the base. The upper, better illuminated shoots are always stronger than the lower ones; when forming the crown, they are cut off more. The lower shoots extending from the trunk are shortened slightly or not at all.

On each skeletal branch, two or three second-order shoots must be laid at a distance of 30-40 cm from the trunk, to the left or right of the main branch, so that they do not close. If you leave a semi-skeletal branch on the right, then on the second skeletal branch a similar shoot should also be located on the right.

It is difficult for novice gardeners to distinguish between the fruit and growth buds of a peach, therefore, further annual pruning is carried out only on a bud or flower, so you will definitely not deprive yourself of the harvest. Vertical wen and branches growing inside the crown are cut out, all internal annual branches are shortened by 2-3 buds, and external "annuals" - by 8-10 eyes.

Summer green peach pruning gives good results. It is necessary to remove branches growing inside the crown, wen, twins. Excess branches are shortened into two buds or cut into a ring. From the second year after planting until fruiting, pruning should be weak. And in normally developed fruiting trees, 40-50% of the annual growth is removed.

Flower trimming is also called "final". After all, it is then that it becomes clear on which branches it is better to leave, and on which ones to harvest. At the same time, its preliminary normalization is carried out.

Peach pruning by grape type

Peach bears fruit on annual growths, and some varieties, for example, Redhaven, are best pruned like grapes, forming a fruit link with an arrow and a replacement knot on the main branches, their ramifications, as well as semi-skeletal branches. Minimum distance between links - 15-20 cm. Keep in mind that the replacement knot should always be closer to the trunk, so you will not allow the base of the skeletal branches to be exposed, and the crop "run away" to the top of the tree. After fruiting, the fruit arrow is completely cut out, and the branches that have developed from the knot are cut again: the one closest to the trunk - by 2-3, and the remote one - by 6-8 buds. There can be two fruit arrows in a link. Ideally, you need to leave on one skeletal branch several such fruit links, totaling 40-50 buds (or their groups) after pruning.

Attention! When the replacement knot gives an increase, and the upper branch develops to 50-60 cm, it is pinched. This will stop its growth and allow the lower one (the future replacement knot) to get stronger, because before pinching all the plant's forces were directed to the development of the upper shoot.

If the garden is already 7-8 years old and the growth is less than 30 cm, then the time has come for rejuvenating pruning. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are pruned to two to three years of wood, above the first outer branch. Be sure to feed and water well the peaches weakened by pruning. The old garden (15-20 years old) is pruned into four to five year old wood.

At the time of pouring the fruits, cut off the young growth to the extreme peach at the end of the shoot. This will stop vegetative growth, redirect nutrition to fruits and ripen wood.

Young growths are not cut!

• One of the features of the American pruning method is the expansion of the crown.
• In this case, you will have to change the planting pattern, placing the plants five meters apart in a row with a six-meter row spacing.
• Take it all away side shoots on annual wood, but do not shorten the tops! After all, it is on them that most peach varieties give the main harvest. This is the main "trick" of American pruning: the shoots weighed down with fruits bend to the horizontal, and new vertical shoots begin to grow from the dormant buds (it's all about the peach in particular: it always reaches for the light).
• Next year, the fruiting shoot is cut out to the first strong lateral branch - the basis of this year's fruiting, which we also do not shorten.
• It is best that on each skeletal branch there are no more than three such fruitful shoots. For this, all growths must be thinned out in the spring.
• This system is convenient for harvesting, in addition, the fruits are evenly distributed on the branches, do not press against each other, and 90% harvested - excellent marketable peaches!

American gardeners ration their crops immediately after flowering. But in our conditions, it is better to act in two stages: half of the extra fruits are removed after the petals fall, the second thinning is carried out along the developing ovaries.

Such pruning not only opens the crowns to the sun's rays, but also facilitates processing. And the branches, which, under the weight of the harvest, tend to the ground by themselves, facilitate the harvesting of peaches. And although all the fruits are large, as for selection, the branches do not break after such pruning.

Green peach surgeries will make spring pruning easier

Green operations must be carried out at least three times a season on fruiting peaches. In May, thickening branches in the center of the crown, twins and shoots directed inward are broken out, opening the center of the bowl to light. This is beneficial for the light-loving peach, the setting of fruit buds and the ripening of wood. This saves not only the strength of the plant, which does not consume food for the growth of unnecessary branches, but also saves your energy during spring pruning.

Let's say your peach has four well-developed skeletal branches. First, it is necessary to cut out all the growths directed to the ground on the ring: next year they will bend under the weight of the harvest, and the fruits will fall directly on the ground and begin to rot. The next step is cleaning the center of the crown. Other green operations are also important. Especially the normalization of the crop is the most important event for this crop, since the peach is practically incapable of dropping the ovary. Small fruits are thinned out, leaving a distance of 12 to 15 cm between them.Only then the peaches will be able to fill, will be large and sweet.

At the beginning of July, the peach orchard will face the second "series" of green operations, and in August - the third. All this is guaranteed to reduce the amount of spring pruning.

Annual pruning is not only mandatory, but extremely necessary event for the peach tree! It needs it and reacts perfectly to it, without pruning you will get small fruits with reduced taste... Unlike most fruit cropsthat are cut before bud break, this peach procedure must be carried out exactly in the phase of their blooming or even budding, and only in warm dry seasons.

Peach will need pruning and during the whole summer at least 2, and preferably 3 times, the last one should fall in August. This is explained by the fact that young trees have tremendous growth energy and give too much energy to branches, which, in fact, are not needed. If we omit summer trimmings, the peach tree will grow old much faster, and after a few seasons it will have to be replaced with a young seedling.

Correct pruning of a peach - a diagram of crown formation

The most common and proven scheme for the formation of a peach crown is pruning under a cupped crown. With its help, you will create a strong, well-lit and ventilated crown, convenient for harvesting and other work, and, of course, very productive! The height of the trunk (the very central branch from which we will form the crown) of the seedling is usually limited to half a meter above the ground, a larger peach is not needed if it is planted in a sunny place not shaded by other trees.

At the optimal height for the trunk, from strong shoots, you will need to choose a branch that will become skeletal. It is important that the angle of growth of the shoot in relation to the stem is not sharp, like in the rest of the shoots we have chosen to form the skeleton. The second branch is selected a few buds higher, on the opposite side of the first. If you look at the seedling from above, then we can see two options for the development of events: in the first case, if the two branches we have chosen do not form an angle with each other, but, as it were, divide the space around the stem into two semicircles, then you will need to choose two more skeletal shoots from the higher branches, which should be located at right angles to the first two, dividing the space into 4 even "pieces".

In the second case, if the first two skeletal branches form an angle with each other, you need to choose only one shoot, which in relation to the lower two will be located at the same angle. That is, the space around the trunk should be divided into three identical sections. Sometimes there are no branches on the seedlings in the spring - in this case, you will have to wait until the shoots you need grow on it. You need to choose branches only after they are lignified bottom part, otherwise they can still change the angle of departure from the trunk. The next year, in spring, the tops of the skeletal branches are cut at the same height - the cut must be done above the bud, which is located with outside branches.

This pruning principle will be relevant for all years, except perhaps for anti-aging pruning. Of course, pruning peach trees above the lateral or inner bud is allowed, but only if you need to correct the direction of growth of individual branches.

During the growing season, be sure to remove excess green shoots that form on the trunk and on skeletal branches - nothing should compete with the shoots selected according to the scheme.

In the third year, the first branch of the second level is laid out of the growth formed over the last season. It should be located no closer than half a meter from the base of the skeletal branch. You need to choose the strongest shoot and shorten it to 40 cm. In the fourth year, a similar branch is laid on the opposite side of the first branch of the second level. In the same year, overgrowing branches are also left, which should be located at least 10 cm apart from each other. Correct pruning peach contributes to the appearance of the harvest already in the fourth, less often in the third year, and the fruiting of the peach begins.

Pruning peach trees - tree care

After reaching the desired crown shape, do not lose your guard! Annual pruning should continue. You will need to thin out thickened shoots, remove branches with only growth or only flower buds, and clear the inside of the crown. The main pruning measures should be shortening shoots with a normal number of growth and flower buds, as well as restraining growth by periodically shortening the skeletal branches.

The last point must be performed when the tree shows signs of weakening growth and exposure of the central part of the crown. In fact, it is necessary to carry out an easy one, cutting off 2-3-year-old branches, and over time, those that are older. Sometimes skeletal branches need to be replaced with new fatty shoots, pulling them off with stretch marks. It is best to save anti-aging pruning for those years when the tree is affected by severe frosts or return frosts.