When is the best time to prune your garden trees. Why and when fruit trees are pruned

The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main ones of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop. However, positive results can be achieved only if the pruning is done technically correctly, with a high-quality garden tool, and most importantly - in a timely manner. The article will focus on the correct pruning of fruit trees.

When it is necessary to prune the crown of fruit trees

For each of the species and age of fruit trees, there is its own - the most suitable period for pruning. The procedure ranges can be conventionally divided into several.

Autumn-winter... Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the deciduous cover and the end of the movement of the tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most favorable time for tree pruning. But on the other hand, it is during this period, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, that the healing of the cut sites is more difficult. In addition, pruning in low temperatures can freeze the shoots in this way, which will damage them and impair the function of fruiting.
Spring-summer... It starts from the moment the first movement of the tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. Exactly this the right time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. Unsatisfactory results can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal landmarks, before proceeding with pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of at least important factors, such as:

location of the site;
wind speed;
the presence of precipitation;
temperature below 0 °;

Fruit tree pruning tools

Not only seasonal and weather conditions, but also the quality of the tools are fundamental during the pruning period. The requirements for them are quite simple, they should be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What you may need for trimming.

Pruner. Refers to a variety of garden shears. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool should be light and convenient to use, since usually cutting one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action of the ratchet mechanism, it will depend on how much force you have to press on the handles. In addition, the blades should have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, which will cause additional work.

Garden hacksaw... The blades should be well sharpened and have a tapered shape towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees as they can cause additional damage to the trunk.
Long secateurs... Differs from manual option, the presence of a long handle. This shape is perfect for cutting off processes that are slightly higher than human height, without the use of additional tools in the form of a ladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the cutting height.

In the work of pruning trees, additional tools may be needed.

Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

Ladder or stepladder will allow you to form the crown of a fruit tree.
Overalls, complemented by protective gloves, will eliminate unnecessary injuries during work.
Glasses will be needed at the moments of cutting, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Technique for shaping and pruning fruit trees

From a technical point of view, there are three types of tree pruning.

"To the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction for the growth of the branch. As a rule, only young annual shoots are cut in this way using a cut over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruning shear blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cut angle should be as close as possible to 45 ° so that the kidney is not "truncated". In addition, an unnecessarily sharp cut must be avoided, in which case the retained kidney will lack nutrients... A too long residual process can dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

"On the ring." Such pruning is done only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take up some of the nutrients that can be distributed among the more promising branches in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with a pruner, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that should not be forgotten when cutting a branch "on a ring". Do not leave an unnecessarily long process and prune flush with the bark. It is considered correct to trim along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by the influx of bark at the junction of the shoot with the trunk.

"On the lateral branch". This view pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most their viable functions. Its direct purpose is considered to be a change in the direction of growth from one shoot to another. There is a complete pruning of incapacitated branches, due to which all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine the further development of the fruit tree and its yield:

Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown, as a result, the necessary density and shape should be formed. The best time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active movement of the juice, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be as fruitful as possible. Late formative pruning will cause the plant to stagnate or not yield per se.

Important: correctly designed skeletal (guiding) branches, during the entire growth and development of plants, will serve as a reliable frame, resistant to any stress, which will allow to withstand even the heaviest harvest.

Regulatory. Suitable for an actively developing tree that requires minimal adjustments. The illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots should be maintained in proper condition. Potentially good period: February-April or August-September. In any of these periods, the fresh cut is quickly tightened and does not release the tree sap.
Rejuvenating the view is for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. This pruning is effective in stimulating new shoot growth and restoring the vitality of a wilting tree. Even if a "mature" tree produces a good harvest, it still needs rejuvenating pruning from time to time to awaken the adventitious buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be considered in order to avoid harming the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

Spring is the most productive and successful season for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the period of the final temperature change after winter so that the last frosts pass. It is necessary to trim it strictly until the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0 ° is ideal. Pruning fruit trees should be done in the following sequence:
Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruiting composition. And only after that you can cut off young seedlings. The reason lies in the different periods of kidney awakening.
If apple trees grow on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, after pruning this tree will not suffer, unlike others. But it is better to cut off pear and cherry closer to May.

For shoots, pruning starts with the least promising. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as insects that intersect with others are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
Large fruit branches are cut down only by the option: "on the ring". The cut site must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - this way it will tighten faster and will not harm the whole tree.

Summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees can also be carried out in the summer. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight correction concerning branches damaged by frost, if they have not been identified. in early spring... Indeed, during the period of active flowering, it is much easier to identify flaws.

In addition to cleaning up incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

Pinning (clothespin) - the process of cutting off the upper part of the branch. The young shoot is easily cut with garden shears or pruning shears.

Grasshopping is a correction option that is performed when the buds give young shoots and it is enough to break them off. The technique is quite similar to standard cropping, the only difference is that clipping occurs without intervention garden tools... Surprisingly, it is this option that favorably affects the tightening of the cliff site, it occurs faster and less painful.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

The most favorable period for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for the extremes of cold temperatures. The most important goal autumn pruning- This is sanitization, that is, the removal of excessive dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, wood pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to the healthy part of the fruit tree.
Among other things, autumn pruning of trees allows you to create the most effective conditions for ventilation and lighting of the crown. And the distribution of tree sap on healthy branches will increase the yield for the next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large sections must be processed with a special protective compound, this will have a beneficial effect on early healing and preparation for low temperatures. Pruning fruit trees in winter is not recommended.

Pruning schemes for fruit trees

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. An approximate plan for pruning a tree can come to the aid of a layman in this matter.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - by removing the thin forks of branches in the form of "crow's feet".

Next, you should get rid of the crossing of the branches, for this you need to cut off the shoots directed towards the soil.
Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: cut off branches directed towards it and young growth.
Crown formation is carried out by removing thickening (growing too close) and spinning branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developing tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground until the beginning of fruiting, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, track the growth of fresh shoots and lay future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure the growth of the crown - evenly in all directions. Therefore, pruning of one-year-old shoots and branches thickening the crown mass is carried out. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower ones by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruitful after a few years.
Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. Late autumn is considered the most successful period for pruning them. After leaf fall, all damaged and excess shoots are removed. This not only allows the tree to be prepared for winter, but also to achieve high-quality air exchange and crown lighting.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

It is quite easy to form the crown of new plantings, the main thing is to follow all the rules. But as for old fruit trees, then certain stages should be observed. This is due to the fact that the entire crop on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown, the fruits are relatively small size and appear irregularly.
The painstaking process of revitalizing old fruit trees has been carried out over several years, and consists of the following activities.
In the first year, the crown is pruned several levels down and only on the south side of the tree. All work should be carried out in order to transfer the main branches to the side branch.
In the next season, the pruning of the "tops" formed during the previous procedure is mandatory. Otherwise, they will absorb nutrients that are so necessary for the living part of the tree. The removal process is performed "on the ring", while the season does not affect the quality of the procedure.

In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is trimmed, and then cleared from the "wolves".
The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter. This is due to the fact that during this period fresh cuts do not rot and pests cannot start in them.

There are certain nuances, observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person does it for the first time.

When carrying out the most rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe the frequency of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
If it is necessary to achieve the fastest possible growth from the fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.
Do not touch frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of the branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be even, otherwise you may end up with a crown oversaturated with branches or overly thinned out.
When cutting off branches around the main trunk, you should not leave adjacent branches close to it, i.e. at an acute angle.
It is important to remember that it is the horizontal branches that differ in the maximum level of fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees to regulate the amount of harvest.

Slices large in diameter must be treated with a special compound: garden varnish or heteroauxin - this will accelerate the healing of the plant. And here is the use oil paint not recommended as a cut cover.
Young trees need to be cut minimally - only for the purpose of crown formation. Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration in fruiting properties.

The painstaking work that is associated with pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time with a decent harvest of fruit. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process, in fact, requires from the contractor not only adherence to technology, but also accuracy.

We will tell you about the techniques, methods and rules for pruning trees and bushes.

There are techniques that can be used to regulate growth and fruiting. garden trees and shrubs. They are akin to surgical ones. This is crown formation and pruning.

The formation of the crown is carried out to create a strong skeleton of trees in order to accelerate their fruiting and at the same time to be maximally rationally placed in the available space of the garden. For this, trimming is carried out, i.e. partial or complete removal of shoots. This agrotechnical technique seems to be rather complicated and requires certain skills. Failure to use it can harm the garden. Have fruit crops pruning must be carried out before bud break - in March or the first half of April at freezing temperatures. In berry bushes, buds swell early, and leaves appear almost immediately after the snow melts. In this regard, they are cut off first. Then you should tackle apple trees, pear trees, pruning young pome plantations and stone fruit.

You need to know that in early blooming plants, buds and flower shoots are laid in the previous growing season, so they should be pruned immediately after the end of flowering. In late flowering crops, it is carried out at the beginning of the growth period. Pruning some shrubs stimulates an increase in the size of their leaves, as a result of which they become more decorative. For this purpose, it is carried out in winter or early spring.

Pruning raspberry, dogwood and willow maintains and enhances the decorative color of their shoots.

Name of parts of the tree

To carry out the correct pruning of trees and shrubs, it is necessary to have an idea of their constituent parts (Fig. 1).

The aerial part of the tree, otherwise the crown, is a trunk with branches.

Rice. 1. The main parts of the tree: 1 - vertical root; 2 - horizontal root; 3 - root collar; 4 - stem; 5 - the main skeletal branch; 6 - a conductor giving direction to the growth of the branch; 7 - overgrown branches; 8 - continuation branch

The part of it, going down to the first branch, is called the stem. From it to the last annual growth, there is a central conductor, from which large skeletal branches extend, and from them, in turn, skeletal branches of the first, second and third order of branching. The trunk with skeletal branches is the constantly living base of the plant. Another part of it and the crown is short-lived and weak branches, which are rejuvenated or replaced by new ones.

Fruit branches grow on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches, which are otherwise called overgrown (Fig. 2). These include a fruit twig (15-20 cm), a spear (up to 15 cm) and a ringlet (2 cm).

Rice. 2. Growing branches of an apple tree: 1 - fruit twig; 2 - fruit; 3 - spear; 4 - ringlet

Rice. 2 (continued). Overgrowing branches of an apple tree: 1 - fruit twig; 2 - spear; 3 - fruit; 4 - ringlet; 5 - fruit bag

On the branches, continuation shoots are distinguished - the terminal shoots of the trunk and branches. At the end of the fruit twig, a swelling forms, which bears the fruits, - a fruit, or fruit bag. There are also tops (water shoots) - strong shoots growing vertically, which develop on perennial wood from dormant buds or due to branch breakage, improper pruning and freezing of branches.

It is also important to know about the kidneys (Fig. 3). This is a rudimentary shoot in a dormant state. Distinguish between growth, fruit, dormant and mixed buds. From the latter, replacement increments are formed and peduncles develop. Sleeping kidneys are spare. They wake up when freezing, damaged branches or drying out. Fruit buds contain underdeveloped inflorescences and flowers.

Rice. 3. Varieties of buds: a - a fruit twig with flower buds; b - growth buds; c - fruit buds.

What you need to know about pruning

There are three types of pruning: formative, regulating fruiting, and rejuvenating, i.e. restorative.

Formative pruning carried out to create a productive crown, which provides good air circulation, resistance to diseases and pests, as well as to prevent weakening of shoot growth. It is carried out in the first three age periods - from 5 to 15 years.

Pruning, which regulates fruiting, creates conditions for the constant renewal of fruit wood. She lightens the crowns by removing thickened, intersecting and weak branches.

Rejuvenating is used for trees 20-25 years old and older.

Pruning is carried out twice - in winter and summer, that is, during periods of dormancy and growing season. Pruning is used (remove the end part of the shoot, fruit twigs and branches) and cutting (remove branches at the point of their departure from the larger or central conductor).

When thinning, they get rid of unnecessary branches that thicken the inner part of the crown: intertwined, weak, diseased, broken and growing up or down.

Shortening enhances growth processes (Fig. 4, 5). This technique is used in the formation of the crown to balance the branches and subordinate them to the guide, as well as to reduce the size of the crown in case of its strong growth. It is also used to enhance the overgrowth of branches, the so-called ankle, in varieties with a weak awakening of the buds. In old trees, shortening is carried out in order to enhance their growth, or used to restore the crown when freezing.

Rice. 4. Pruning branches

Rice. 5. Shortening: a - young branches

Rice. 5 (continued). Shortening: b - old branches

The method of shortening is not used for pruning varieties that can quickly form shoots and awaken buds: this leads to thickening.

There are three degrees of shortening: weak - less than 1/3 of the branch, medium - from 1/3 to ½ and strong - more than half of the branch is cut off.

The slices are made near the kidney - this is called kidney trimming. The one that is located on outside branches and "looks" in the right direction. Then an oblique cut is made approximately 5 cm above the kidney.

Branches up to 1 cm thick are cut with a garden knife, thicker ones with a file. To cut a whole branch, you need to saw it off at a distance of 25 cm from the trunk, starting at the bottom a quarter of the branch's circumference. Next, make a cut from above and saw off the branch to the end. This gentle method prevents the splitting of bark and wood.

The next step is to saw off the rest of the branch in the same two-step technique. Next, the edges of the trim are aligned sharp knife and process by various means: for example, they are covered with pitch so that pathogens do not penetrate. True, some gardeners, on the contrary, believe that this method leads to infection of the tree and slows down the healing process. In addition, sections of more than 1 cm can be painted over with paint prepared on natural linseed oil. You can wrap the wound with plastic wrap.

Pruning should be done before flowering to allow the wounds to heal (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Cutting off a branch: a - sawing off a branch from the bottom; b - sawing off a branch from above

Rice. 6 (continued). Branch pruning: c - sawing off the remnants of the branch; d - covering the wound with var

Each plant has its own pruning calendar. So, roses should be pruned in winter or early spring, before the flowers begin to awaken; grapes - after flowering, better in winter or early spring. To trim it, a shortening technique is used, with the help of which the formation of lateral short branches is achieved. New fruiting ones develop from them. The shortening of decorative vines is carried out in a similar way: up to the first three buds from the main branches.

Evergreen hedges, such as boxwood, are pruned in early summer with hand scissors, and large-leaved hedges with pruning shears. These works are best carried out in dry, cloudy weather in the absence of the sun in order to avoid burns at the cut points. Laurel hedges are cut in early autumn, near conifers pruning is done at the end of summer. Beech and hornbeam are pruned in late summer or early spring.

Caring for trees in the garden is very important, because if you let this process take its course, no good harvests, and the aesthetic beauty of the garden is out of the question. Crown formation, directly affects fertility, as well as appearance... Pruning fruit trees in the fall is the most important thing, and a lot depends on how you do it. They begin to form the crown with early age, thus the summer resident determines the strongest branches, which are given priority in development. The tree does not waste energy in vain, so the yield is maximum for a particular variety. In addition to weak branches, it is necessary to remove old, dry ones, to carry out sanitary pruning of the tree.

What is cropping, why is it needed?

Removal of shoots, branches or parts of it to form a crown for preventive or sanitary purposes, rejuvenation is carried out for old plants. This procedure is used not only for fruit trees, but also for shrubs, ornamental plants... As a rule, work in this direction is carried out either in the fall or in the spring, but sometimes, for a number of reasons, you can cut the tree in the summer. Autumn pruning is advisable only in regions with a rather mild climate, for residents of the northern regions, it would be best to postpone work in the spring. Why is that? It's simple, immediately after you remove the branches or shoots, a wound is formed at the cut site, and if a sharp cold snap occurs, then the bark suddenly begins to freeze and the wood deteriorates. Thus, the plant may die.

It should be noted that not all plants need frequent pruning, there are crops in which this happens every few years, while others are pruned every season. Therefore, further, we will talk about the features and nuances when processing a particular tree.

Apple tree pruning.

When:

The apple tree is pruned in the spring and less often in the summer (with a very thick crown that interferes with the development of the fruit). Sometimes this procedure is carried out in the fall.

Spring... It is important to get to work even before the juice movements along the plant begin. First of all, the branches that are frozen and dried up in winter are removed, then they begin to form a crown.

Autumn... It is necessary to reorganize the crown, suitable for this month - November. Don't start pruning the branches before the apple tree has shed its leaves.

The columnar apple tree is pruned either at the beginning of summer, or already before winter.

Autumn pruning of apple trees

The goal is to eliminate the weak, dry, with signs of decay, black cancer, and other dangerous conditions. Do not worry, you will not bring harm, because during this period the plant is already dormant.

Action plan:

Start with old, large branches that are withered or severely damaged.
Proceed to remove branches that grow at an acute angle.
All the places of the cuts are covered with a garden varnish, if it is not there, then use paint on drying oil. Young branches are not processed immediately, but after a day.
Burn all cut off shoots and twigs.

Young apple trees are processed very carefully, while using a pruner. The shoots that have appeared this year are shortened by a quarter, and then they are not touched for 3-5 years. However, this rule should be neglected if the tree is growing rapidly upward. A plant older than 5-6 years is pruned on a more serious scale, but still, in moderation. Leading, strong twigs are shortened by a third.

The rejuvenation of old apple trees takes place in three phases:

The first year, we remove a third of the old branches, select the old and damaged ones.
In the next season, we repeat this procedure, with the same outcome.
In the third year - the final phase, we delete all the old branches that are still left.

When rejuvenating, it is unlikely that a pruner will help you; it is best to use a saw. The blade should be disinfected before use.

Columnar apple tree.

In this case, there is a direct relationship from the intensity of pruning to the intensity of growth of the remaining shoots. Boldly remove a third of the branch, three or four buds will remain, from which powerful and healthy shoots will appear already in the graying year. Otherwise, if you leave more buds, the shoots will be of medium strength, and very weak if you leave the tree alone and remove a small part. Do not cut off the center section, otherwise the crown will start to bifurcate.

If you decide to achieve a columnar shape, you need to start forming it from the very moment the seedling is planted. To do this, the crown shoot is tied to a support, and fruit links are formed from the lateral ones. If the shoots are too powerful, they are cut into a ring, since they can begin to retard the growth of the conductor. The frame is formed from grown young shoots.

How to prune an apple tree in spring.

The first procedure is carried out in the first year after planting, even if you acted carefully when planting, root system it was still damaged, since it is very fragile in apple trees. Therefore, it is necessary to cut the seedling in order to distribute the movement of nutrients and juice, only to the desired branches. In the photo, you see the processing scheme after planting, with the help of this instruction you can form the correct crown.

A year later, next spring, the second pruning of the apple tree is carried out. This time we leave only 4-5 branches, the strongest and growing at an obtuse angle - these are skeletal branches. But they also need to be cut to form a tiered structure. To do this, leave more length at the bottom than at the top. The conductor (trunk) is also trimmed, it should be no more than 25 centimeters higher than the rest of the processes. In the event of a bifurcation of the conductor, one of its parts is cut off.

Third - fifth year.

This is a very important period for crown formation, so you need to act very carefully. The main thing is not to harm future fruiting, act carefully, and do not remove too zealously.

The growth of the conductor must be regulated every year and not allowed to grow too rapidly.

Pear pruning.

Pear pruning has its own characteristics, this procedure is not carried out annually, but nevertheless, regularity is necessary. Sanitary procedures are carried out in the warm season. With the onset of cold weather, they become impossible, and they are transferred to the warm season. The best period is spring, when the temperature crosses the + 8C mark. In autumn, pears are pruned only in September. The pyramidal shape of the tree is a reference in which the collection of fruits is greatly simplified, so it is best to follow this tradition when shaping the crown.

The crown begins to form almost from the very beginning, but before doing this, it is necessary to select the branches that will form the base of the pear. The annual plant is pruned at a height of about 45 centimeters from the ground. In two annual trees, half of the side shoots are removed, the rest will be the basis for a powerful tree. They are cut at the same level, but the conductor is 20 cm higher than the rest.

In autumn, the pear is pruned only in order to remove diseased, dry, damaged branches, as well as excess ones in the crown that are not useful. You can shorten the young shoots by a third, as well as the crown, but only if necessary, the main thing is not to harm the shape of the crown, leave it pyramidal. Further areas damaged by pruning shears or saws, as well as cuts, process with garden pitch. As we said before, lubricate young shoots only after a day has passed from the moment of work.

Pruning pears in spring.

In the spring, it is best to carry out rejuvenation procedures. To do this, you must first trim the top, but this is only if you have not performed the correct trimming procedures before, and if you did everything correctly, then the crown will be optimal height, and you can only thin out the density, remove the weakest, dry and damaged branches. Shorten the rest by a quarter, cover the cut points with garden varnish or varnish-based paint. Carry out the manipulations before the kidneys awaken, but not too early, the mark on the thermometer should step over the mark at + 5C.

How to prune a plum.

When the plum is cut.

This procedure is carried out as needed.

Spring:

In the spring, the plum is pruned before the buds open. First of all, remove the frozen branches, then the phase of preparation for active growth begins. In this case, start forming a crown: remove weak shoots that make it too thick, and damaged and dry branches should be removed.

Summer:

It is carried out only when a bountiful harvest threatens to break the branches, remove or shorten unnecessary ones.

Autumn:

How to form a crown of a plum, diagram

Pruning plums in autumn solves two problems at once: preparing the tree for winter, as well as increasing yields in the next season. After leaf fall, all processes in the plant slow down or stop altogether, it prepares for sleep, right now all the manipulations need to be carried out. It's time to remove damaged, dry and diseased branches. The top is shortened if the drain is higher than 2.5 meters in height. Then the moment comes when it is necessary to shorten the shoots that grew faster than the norm. Also, shoots that in the future may make the crown too thick are also removed. Young trees are not subjected to rigid pruning, shorten the shoots by no more than one-third, but you should not stand on ceremony with branches that will grow inside the crown, they are cut off entirely. Old branches are removed in the spring, but those that have not borne fruit at all can be removed in the fall.

All waste after work is burned, and the places of the cuts are treated with garden varnish, or with paint based on drying oil.

Old trees are not pruned in autumn, this procedure is transferred to spring.

Cherry pruning.

When the cherries are pruned:

It makes no sense to carry out this procedure annually. The formation and rejuvenation of the tree occurs in the spring; in the fall, the tree is pruned only if it is necessary to remove dry, damaged or diseased branches. IN southern regions with a mild climate, you can cut cherries in October, but in the northern ones - in September. After the tree has thrown off the leaves, work can begin. But be sure to look at the weather forecast, if you see that frosts will begin very soon, then postpone this procedure for the arrival of spring.

Autumn Cherry Pruning:

In the autumn period, work with trees that are one year old is not carried out, since they will not have time to heal their wounds before the onset of cold weather. In grown plants, branches are shortened and removed carefully, while leaving the most powerful processes sticking out in different directions intact. The distance between them should be at least 10 centimeters. We remove all the growth, as it makes the cherry weak, and serves as a shelter for small rodents. In a self-rooted plant, the shoots can be used for transplantation, but in a grafted plant, it is useless.

Spring pruning of cherries:

At this time, young trees are formed, and the old ones are also sanitized. The best moment for this will be the beginning of March, and it will last until the end of April. At this time, the buds have not yet blossomed, and the movement of juice along the trunk has not begun. Young trees that have begun to bear fruit are pruned very carefully and minimally. If you planted a tree in the fall, it is only in the spring that you can start pruning it.

Formation of the young:

1-3 year-old cherries form in spring. It is very important to form the crown correctly. Choose successfully growing skeletal branches (the distance between them is 8-15 centimeters, they should not grow from adjacent buds). Remove the lowest shoots on the ring, you need to raise the stem by 30-50 centimeters, then remove the weak and dry ones, as well as those growing at an acute angle.

Working with old trees:

Caring for 10-15 year old cherries is quite difficult and will require certain knowledge and skills from you. Since fruiting at this age is abundant, the trunk must be made more stable; for this, old, diseased and dry branches are removed. It is also necessary to first thin out the crown, if it is very thick, and then proceed to the rejuvenation procedure.

The total number of branches of the first order is from 8 to 12 (bush-like), and up to 8 (tree-like). The second order is not taken into account, they are removed only when they begin to grow inward and thicken the crown. To change directions, branches are cut off to 1-2 buds. If the height of the cherry is over 2.5 meters, it is shortened by cutting off the center conductor.

Pruning apricot:

When and how the apricot is cut.

Spring, summer and autumn are considered suitable for this procedure. The most thorough and thorough one is spring, in summer only branches overloaded with fruits that threaten to damage the tree as a whole are removed. In the fall, they carry out sanitary work and prepare for the winter.

Autumn.

Prune branches very carefully during this period, and only remove old, dry and damaged ones. Do not leave deep wounds, but those that remain must be treated with garden varnish, if the cut is deep, then first apply copper sulfate to the wound, and then garden varnish. You can also remove shoots growing inside the crown.

Spring.

This is the optimal season for starting work. Start pruning apricots around April when the cold has receded. During this period, the tree itself is formed, preferably in a cup-shaped form, and also sanitary pruning is carried out, and the crown is too thick. Strongly growing shoots from skeletal branches are also removed.

Summer.

At this time, the procedure greatly affects the future harvest. At the very beginning of summer, last year's shoots are pinched, the length of which exceeds 20 centimeters. Already after 10 days, the number of shoots will increase significantly, which will positively affect the yield. But do not forget to regularly water the apricot, especially if it is dry, hot weather outside, otherwise all activities will be wasted without giving the desired effect.

How the apricot pruning process works:

It should be said that in different age groups, different tasks are solved, therefore it is advisable to break this issue into several points, by age.

Young .

When pruning a young tree, it is very important to keep an eye on correct formation trunk, as well as behind the location of skeletal branches. The shoots must be greatly shortened so that the young apricot can easily bear their weight and can develop calmly.

Sequencing:

One year after planting, it will be about September, the whip from the tree must be shortened by 1/4.
A year later, three large branches will grow in that place, they should also be cut off, at the very beginning of autumn. Pruning is not carried out in early spring, otherwise there is a risk that the tree will die.
In the third year of growth, the apricot will acquire a spherical shape, at this moment it will be necessary to cut off the growth shoots if they stick out and stand out from the rest of the mass.
Small, weak branches are pinched at the point of growth.
Beginning in the fourth year, the grower needs to regularly prune stem shoots that grow faster than others.
Fruit branches are removed every few years.

Old:

The apricot rejuvenation procedure is very important if you want to preserve or even increase its yield. When is the procedure needed? In the event that the annual growth of shoots is less than 20 centimeters.

Algorithm of actions:

Branches that are 5 years old or more must be sawed off at an angle.
When a powerful shoot appears in the place of the saw cut, then the branches above it, or growing in different directions are removed, thus the new sprout gets more strength and nutrients.
Radical removal does not occur, do this procedure gradually waiting for the appearance of new shoots, and only then remove the old ones.

Peach pruning.

When:

As in most cases, this procedure is carried out with a peach three times a year: in autumn, spring, and summer. In the spring, they form a plant, and also remove branches damaged by cold weather. You can also rejuvenate the peach in the spring. In the summer, manipulations are carried out only if necessary, and in the fall, they are prepared for winter.

Autumn.

We carry out sanitary removal of unnecessary branches, damaged and sick. We incinerate waste, away from orchard, treat the wounds with a garden varnish, or paint based on drying oil.

In the spring.

The most appropriate moment for this procedure is the period between the beginning of the swelling of the buds and flowering. As a rule, it does not last long, a maximum of three to four weeks, during which time you need to have time to hold all the events.

Increase the fruiting interval.
Formation of a decorative look.
Sanitary.
Acceleration of flowering and the beginning of fruiting.

Peach pruning by age.

The first year after planting, it is necessary to form a crown in the form of a vase. To do this, the plant is shortened by 20 centimeters, at a height of about 65 centimeters. Top gain should have wide angle departures. Next, select two more gains that will be below, and have the same parameters as the top one. They need to be shortened by 10 centimeters. Shoots that started on the trunk at the shortening point near the trunk should be removed as soon as the buds open. Those shoots that grow inside the crown must be removed in the summer.
In the second year, it is necessary to form the correct angle of inclination and growth of skeletal branches. New growths are shortened to 65 centimeters... Strong growths growing at the top or bottom are removed. Side - it is necessary to thin out, leave every 15 centimeters, and the length is removed by 2 buds. In the summer, fatty shoots growing inside the crown are removed.
Third year. At this time, you should select two powerful branches on the skeletal branch at the top, and cut them 60 centimeters from the bifurcation point. Remove the main part of the conductor above the top branch. The most powerful shoots are removed from above and below on skeletal branches. In the case when the length of young, one-year-old growths exceeds the length of 80 centimeters, they must be thinned out, cut into 2 buds. Thus, a new fruit link begins to form. The rest of them are used on temporary fruit branches, which must be shortened by eight buds. In order for the lower shoot growing before pinching to develop as efficiently as possible, the shoot located on top must be cut to 50 centimeters. On those branches where last year they were shortened by two buds, the growth that grows upward must be shortened for fruiting, and the lower one - by two buds. This is the formation of the fruit link.
This is Last year peach growth, therefore, in the fourth year, the formation of a vase-shaped crown is completed. And so, at the top of the skeletal bifurcation of the 2nd order, select 2 branches of the 3rd order. We shorten them by a third of their original length. It is necessary to remove strong growths in the upper and lower surfaces of the branch, which are located at the base of the trunk. On the 2nd order forks, finish shaping the fruit links. On 3rd order divisions, thin out the growths, sometimes cutting hard enough, up to the second bud. The rest are left for 7-8 kidneys. These will be fickle fruit-bearing branches. In the first row, remove the twigs that are no longer bearing fruit. And also the branches of the lower growth, which were cut earlier last year. On top growths, remove about seven kidney groups

Cherry pruning.

When:

A tree is formed in the spring, sanitary measures are carried out in the fall and, according to tradition, cherries are prepared for winter, but even in the fall, on the recommendation of many gardeners, rejuvenation can be carried out. But, of course, you should not cut off heavily on the eve of cold weather, it is better to combine sanitary procedures with rejuvenation, and remove damaged, weak and diseased branches. If you have not dared to rejuvenate cherries in the fall, you can do it in the spring.

Crohn, according to experienced gardeners, cherries should have a cone shape, with a wide base. Thus, the tree receives the maximum amount of heat and sun, while ensuring good air circulation inside the crown.

Autumn.

After all the leaves have fallen off, start removing dry, diseased, and damaged branches. The rejuvenation procedure requires the removal of old branches, older than 6-7 years, under the ring. Cover the wounds with garden varnish and varnish-based paint.

Spring.

Early March best time for spring pruning of cherries. At this time, she has not yet left the sleep phase, so all procedures will be less traumatic. But wait for the end of the night frost. To prevent the branch from drying out, you should not remove its tips and growth buds. Too dense deciduous crown is removed not in one fell swoop, but in tiers. Thus, you stimulate the appearance of side shoots, which in turn will have a positive effect on future yields.

Summer.

Cherries are pruned in summer, those who do not like to do this in spring, because of the stress on the tree. You can also carry out sanitary work at this time.

Pruning garden trees.

As you can see, there is a lot in common in pruning all fruit trees. The main activity in this matter falls in the spring, during this period, as a rule, they form a tree, rejuvenate it. But in the summer and autumn, they carry out additional procedures and sanitary measures, removing sick, dry, and weak branches. But, as an exception, you can imagine an apple and a pear, in this case autumn is considered the main season of work.

How to prune, tricks:

Kidney cut: It is carried out in order to change the direction of growth of the branch, you can choose the vector that suits you. To do this, on a one-year shoot, find a bud that would be directed in the direction you need. Near it, you need to cut a branch at an angle of 45 degrees, but make sure that the stump opposite from the bud is not too long (about 2 centimeters). Because if the stump is longer, then most likely it will dry out, and the kidney will not wake up.
Ring cut... When you remove an unnecessary process, it must be removed completely, right up to the outer edge of the ring. Thus, you can make the main one, the branch that grew next to the unnecessary one.

Caring for wounds is very important, so do not be lazy to apply garden varnish or varnish-based paint to the cut site. Recently, many similar drugs have appeared that are more effective in their action, you can check this information in your nearest specialized store.

WHY CROP IS NEEDED

Sick and dry branches are pruned so that trees and shrubs can recover after winter, bloom, bear fruit and develop further.

Plants with too dense crowns and a large number of intersecting branches need pruning to improve light and air exchange.

Often, pruning is done in order to give the crown a certain shape and density.

As a result, the tree acquires not only a harmonious look, but also additional resistance to wind loads, which stimulates the trees to further growth and fruiting.

WHEN to prune trees in the garden

Experts advise to prune trees before the start of sap flow - in late March or early April. In the event of severe frosts, it is better to postpone pruning until warm weather sets in. If we talk about shrubs, then plants blooming in spring can only be cut off after flowering.

WHAT TO CROP

Old, withered and unproductive branches that have stopped bearing fruit.
Branches not receiving enough light.
They usually point downward.
Branches growing vertically upward. They make harvesting more difficult and produce less fruit than horizontal ones.
Fat shoots (tops) growing on old branches of young trees.
Shoots that grow too wildly, because of which other branches cannot develop properly.

GENERAL RULES FOR PRUNING FRUIT TREES

You cannot cut branches with a rusty tool.
Pruning should be carried out in warm weather, at a temperature not lower than -5 ° C.
Each time after cutting diseased branches, the instrument should be disinfected with alcohol.
It is not recommended to prune healthy branches growing at an angle of 45-60 degrees to the trunk. The growth of such branches must be stimulated in every possible way.
Immediately after pruning, the fresh cut must be treated with garden varnish.

WHAT TO CROP

The pruner is the main tool for pruning bushes and trees. The cost of a good pruner is 500-700 rubles. A cheaper tool may not be very convenient or will break down quickly.

TYPES OF PRUNERS

Planar

Ideal for pruning young green shoots. Provides an even and neat cut.

BY DRIVE TYPE

Power

Allows you to increase the cutting force using a special mechanism. Designed for thick branches.

Ratchet

A versatile tool that can cut both green and dry branches. Makes a cut in several steps, which greatly facilitates the work.

for decorative varieties fruit trees blooming in spring - cherry, apple, plum, apricot - as a result of pruning, they will be left without a large number flowers, which in the future will reduce yields and deprive them of their external attractiveness;
for plants in which flowers appear on last year's shoots, these include lilac, hydrangea, mock orange, climbing rose- if pruned, they will bloom only next year.

HOW TO MAKE A GARDEN VAR WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

INGREDIENTS: rosin, wax, melted beef or lamb fat. All ingredients are selected in the same proportions. We heat rosin, fat and wax in different containers, and then pour everything into a tin bowl and mix. We are waiting for the mixture to cool down and pour it into a bucket of cold water. After the var has curled up and thickens, we sculpt a ball out of it. We wrap the finished putty for storage with oiled paper.

ATTENTION!
Such a pitch is suitable for processing trees only in the warm season, since it hardens in severe frost.

FEATURES OF CUTTING SOME PLANTS

FAST GROWING SPECIES - ash, sophora, white acacia should be cut more often, since their branches become bare faster than other plants. Pruning will encourage young shoots to appear.

Shrubs

Shoots, the leaves of which are colored in different colors, should be trimmed with great care, as they may return to the same color in the future. If this does happen, the branch must be deleted completely.

DO NOT NEED FREQUENT CUTTING evergreen shrubs. Formative pruning, which can rather be called a haircut, is done only for hedges. Dry and damaged branches are cut only after flowering.

COST OF CUTTING SERVICES

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - 700 rubles / piece.

Pruning berry bushes - 200 rubles / piece.

Pruning of ornamental shrubs - 350 rubles / piece.

NUMBER OF PLANTS IN A PLOT OF 600 m2

Apple tree - 8 pcs.
Cherries - 6 pcs.
Gooseberries - 10 pcs.
Black currant - 12 pcs.
Red currant - 3 pcs.
Wisteria - 10 pcs.

TOTAL: trees - 14 pcs.; berry bushes - 25 pcs.; ornamental shrubs - 10 pcs.

COST OF CUTTING SERVICES FOR THE WHOLE GARDEN: 700 × 14 + 200 × 25 + 350 × 10 = 18 300 rubles.

SAVING BY SELF CUTTING: 18 300 RUB.

Spring pruning of fruit

The buds have not yet blossomed on the trees, it's time to start pruning fruit crops. But a haircut, as they say, is not suitable here. The degree and nature of pruning depends on the breed, varietal characteristics, age, crown shape, etc. And in terms of timing, they start with older trees, with frost-resistant varieties, among fruit crops - with apple trees, pears, plums, cherries. For a young tree, pruning is the formation of the future crown. In Siberian conditions, European varieties are usually grown in the form of stlanes. This requires attention during the entire growing season, and most importantly - large areas.

For local apple and pear trees, the bushy form is most acceptable. The stem is 25-30 cm high. 3-4 tiers of woven branches, located every 20-25 cm. For this, in the first years, the conductor is shortened by a third, thereby causing strong branching. Then, in the lower part of the tree, 3-4 shoots are selected every 10-15 cm with different orientations and an angle of more than 45 degrees from the trunk. By the way, you can bring the branches to a more horizontal position using twine, tying them to the trunk, to the strengthened lower branch, or pinning them to the ground. This technique will not only give strength to the crown, but also accelerate fruiting. Excess shoots are cut "on a ring", but it is better to pinch them in a young green state. The left branches should be shortened - subordinate to the guide. It should exceed all branches by 20-30 cm.

Please note: annual shoots are cut only for a well-developed bud, directed to the periphery of the crown. For a pear, for example, it gives a more spreading crown. The inner bud is pruned when they want to avoid the weeping crown in Ralda varieties. Zhivinka, Ural bulk. On the lateral bud - when they give the desired direction to the future branch.

The cut should pass on the shoots from the side opposite to the bud (from its top to the base). Don't get too carried away with pruning annual shoots: strong - promotes too active growth, weak - the awakening of most of the kidneys.

When the plant enters into active fruiting, remove the diseased. damaged shoots, prevent forks, that is, branches at an acute angle to each other. In the future, they give breaks. In this case, the cut passes along the bisector of the angle, one side of which lies on the branch section, the other - perpendicular to the cut off shoot.

In the tenth to fifteenth year of life, the trees grow old: the number and length of growths, yield decreases. Anti-aging pruning required. The branches are cut into 3-7-year-old wood. At the same time, the crown decreases. But next year, many young shoots will thicken it. Some of them are removed - on the ring -, the other - they are subordinated. The number of wounds on one side of the branch should not exceed three.

Removing part of the crown, they cut it into a ring or into a side branch. The last technique is to change the direction of branch growth, reduce the crown, and remove its damaged part. The branch to which they are transferred must be healthy, freely located in the crown and capable of serving as a continuation of the main one. The cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees from the opposite side, without leaving a hemp.

For novice gardeners, we explain: cut-on-ring- - complete removal of the branch. At the base of the shoot and branch, in the place where it is attached to the conductive one, it is easy to notice an influx in the form of a ring. Directly above it and make a cut.

Fruit plants are mostly grown on a rootstock that gives rise to shoots. It is removed without leaving the hemp above the soil level. 2-3 buds are left from the overgrowing shoots on the skeleton-forming stem. It does not hurt him and creates protective layer from burns.

And finally, pruning is carried out in dry weather at a temperature of at least 5 degrees.

Cat Self Groomer With Catnip Grooming Tool ...

1. Why crop is needed (crop targets).
2. Types of pruning (formative; rejuvenating; restorative; sanitary).
3. Spring, summer, autumn pruning; pruning calendar dates - how to choose the right one. In what cases is winter pruning permissible.

Why do you need pruning?

Pruning is understood as partial or complete removal of shoots, branches of trees, shrubs and (less often) perennial herbaceous crops. This is a very important event, on which not only decorativeness often depends, but also the ability to bear fruit and plant health.

Cropping - important procedure, on which both the harvest and the health of the garden depend

Pruning is carried out for:
- maintaining (improving) the shape of the crown;
- regulation of plant growth and development;
- stimulation of fruiting, improving the quality of fruits;
- more intense, long-lasting flowering ( decorative crops);
- healing (rejuvenation) of plants.

Types of trimming

Depending on the purpose of pruning, it is divided into types. The gardener needs to understand them in order to choose wisely necessary for the plant options. It should be remembered that for different types trimming can be provided for and different terms, and different techniques.

Formative pruning

Its goal is to form the correct crown. of a certain type(optimal for a particular plant species). First of all, such pruning is necessary for young trees and shrubs. It accelerates the onset of flowering and fruiting, facilitates the care of an adult plant. A well-formed crown provides good illumination, decorative effect; reduces the risk of fractures, disease damage.

In detail about the formative pruning of fruit trees and berry bushes tells the video of the program "Country Wisdom":

Formative pruning in the first years of the life of a tree or shrub is aimed at creating a base - a strong skeleton that can further support the weight of the crop. In subsequent periods, due to the formative pruning, the volume of the crown, its illumination, and shape are regulated.

Watch a master class on spring formative pruning of fruit trees from the rector of the Russian State Agrarian Correspondence University:

Formative pruning is needed not only for fruit and berry crops, but also for most ornamental plants. In this case, the main goals are a beautiful crown shape, large foliage, abundant and long flowering. This can be achieved, inter alia, by removing or shortening the aging branches, which leads to intensive growth of young shoots.

It is important to understand that formative pruning is a creative process. Despite the fact that there are general rules, in each case, an individual solution is required, taking into account the characteristics of both the plant itself and its environment.

The frequency of formative pruning depends mainly on the growth rate: fast-growing crops are pruned annually, and those that grow slowly - every 2-3 years.

Sanitary pruning

It is carried out when it is necessary to remove damaged, broken, dried branches, cut out infected shoots in order to avoid the spread of the disease. Its goal is to keep trees and shrubs healthy.

Unlike other types of pruning, sanitary pruning can be carried out at any time of the year. The only condition is a stable positive air temperature. This is especially true when it comes to caring for neglected trees that have not been pruned for a long time: do everything in one go necessary work it can be difficult, therefore, they first perform sanitary pruning, and then in suitable timing- anti-aging.

Before you start pruning, you should inspect the plant and outline the branches to be removed:

dry or shrinking;
broken, broken;
intertwined, close, rubbing against each other (cut out the weaker one);
branches with signs of disease or pest damage;
coppice and fat shoots;
thickening, growing inside the crown.

Anti-aging pruning

It is used to stimulate the renewal of old trees and shrubs that have lost the ability to grow and bear fruit well. The signal that the plant needs rejuvenating pruning is weak growth, poor flowering and fruiting. You should not wait until the problem reaches its maximum - it is recommended to start rejuvenating pruning at the first alarm signals: a decrease in the annual growth of shoots to 15-20 cm; weak or vice versa - excessive flowering with poor fruiting (many ovaries are formed, but they crumble).

Rejuvenating pruning restores the balance between growth and fruiting that is lost with age. To do this, the old branches are greatly shortened, leaving well-leafy young shoots - they form a new crown from them. It is recommended to carry out such pruning on old trees every 3-4 years (for apple and pear, less often - once every 5-6 years). It is better to prune neglected trees in several stages - over several years, gradually cutting out old branches, lowering and lightening the crown.

It is recommended to rejuvenate berry bushes more often (some - such as raspberries, blackberries, black currants - annually), completely removing old shoots. Some ornamental plants (for example, spirea, mock orange) also need regular anti-aging pruning.

For information on how to restore youth to an old tree by pruning, see the following video:

Restorative (restorative) pruning

It is necessary for damaged (for example, frozen) plants. It is aimed at restoring the damaged crown and restoring the ability to bear fruit (for fruit and berry crops). Often this type also includes pruning of neglected trees, in which the crown is not formed, formed incorrectly or completely lost its shape due to the fact that it has not been looked after for a long time.

When it comes to plants affected by frost, you should not rush to pruning - in early spring, the affected branches are not always easy to identify. Wait for the buds to awaken to assess the damage done to the plant. Damaged shoots are cut to healthy wood, the cuts are processed.

It should be noted that in practice, one type of pruning is rarely found in its pure form - most often gardeners combine them.

Timing of pruning trees and shrubs

It is very important to choose the right time for the trimming. Untimely pruning will not be beneficial and can harm the plant, and in some cases even lead to its death.

Traditionally, spring, summer and autumn pruning is distinguished. Winter pruning is rather an exception; it is carried out mainly in regions with a warm climate, where there is no severe frost. Pruning in winter in cold regions is fraught with serious plant injuries: low temperatures the wood becomes brittle, the wounds are crushed, and the sections do not heal well.

The main work on pruning both fruit and berry and ornamental crops is traditionally carried out in the spring, when very coldy already behind. In the conditions of central Russia, this is usually March-April (but before the buds begin to bloom).

Berry bushes are cut first, because their buds swell very early, and the first leaves may appear almost immediately after the snow melts. Then fruit trees are pruned. Also in the spring they cut roses, grapes, ornamental shrubs and trees.

The well-known Russian experienced gardener Alexander Sidelnikov in the following short video, prepared for the magazine Sady Rossii, talks about the spring pruning of trees:

In addition, you can read the publication.

In summer, additional pruning of old fruit trees is carried out; pinching or cutting out excess young shoots, form (correct) the crown of apple trees; early flowering ornamental crops are cut off after flowering. In early summer, pruning of evergreens (for example, boxwood) is carried out, including in hedges. Summer is a favorable time for pruning lemongrass: this plant has early and active sap flow, with spring pruning, an injured shoot can literally drain out of juice and die, and in summer there is no such threat. Also, during the summer months, you can perform sanitary pruning of all crops (if necessary).

About why and how they spend summer pruning fruit trees, tells the following video:

The second part of the video about summer cropping:

In the fall, it is recommended to prune the berry bushes as they bloom earlier than other plants in spring. In addition, in some crops (for example, raspberries), the shoots that have bearing fruit are cut out in the fall. Fruit trees in regions with severe winters, pruning is not recommended in the fall, since their winter hardiness as a result may decrease and, accordingly, the risk of freezing increases. The main type of autumn pruning is sanitary.

An expert of the Greensad Garden Center (Greensad) tells about the features of autumn pruning in the following video:

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