Apricot crown formation diagram. Pruning apricot summer, spring for beginners, rejuvenating, autumn, scheme, video

Apricots are responsive to correct crown formation and keeping it in a sparse, well-lit and ventilated state. Without meeting these conditions, it is difficult to count on a high yield. A gardener, especially a beginner, needs to know the types of pruning, the rules and the timing of their implementation.

Do you need to prune an apricot in the spring and when to do it

An experienced gardener won't ask that question. He knows that pruning is important aspect tree care. For a beginner, we will answer - yes, you need to. Moreover most types of pruning are performed in the spring. This is due to the fact that during a surgical operation (and pruning, in fact, it is) the tree loses its strength. They may not be enough to successfully overcome winter frosts if the procedure was carried out in the fall.

The best time for pruning is early spring, before the onset of sap flow. Wait for the onset of the warm auspicious days does not remain long, and the plant will no longer need as much strength as it would need after the autumn operation. Do not miss the favorable moment and delay the beginning of its implementation, because during active sap flow, any wound inflicted on the apricot will cause a profuse flow of gum.

The best time for pruning apricots is early spring.

In the spring, the following types of pruning are carried out:

formative,
regulating,
rejuvenating,
sanitary.

Apricot pruning technology

Before proceeding with pruning, a young gardener should study the technology and rules for performing this operation. And of course, it’s better to do it the first time with a more experienced mentor. The first thing to do is get yourself a tool. An approximate list of tools and materials that will be needed to carry out pruning of fruit trees in the garden:

secateurs - used for small diameter branches, usually up to 15–20 mm. There are professional secateurs, in which the declared thickness of the cut branches is 26 mm;
garden saw - used for branches with a larger diameter;
lopper - due to the presence of long handles, it allows you to cut thicker branches, as well as those located high;
knife - used for cleaning sections;
stepladder - used when trimming the upper tiers of the crown;
copper sulfate - its 1% solution is used to disinfect the instrument before starting work, as well as to process sections infected with fungus, branches;
garden var or paint - needed to protect cuts with a diameter of more than 10 mm.

Already from the list it is clear that the tool needs to be disinfected, and the sections should be covered with garden varnish or paint. And cutting tool must be sharpened to avoid lacerations on the wood. It remains to name the types of slices and execution rules.

Photo Gallery: Garden Pruning Tool

Branches up to 26 mm in diameter can be cut with a professional pruning shears. garden tools before starting work, disinfect with a 1% solution of copper sulfate It is better to use a garden var, based on beeswax or lanolin Garden paint you can not only whitewash the trees, but also cover the wounds The stepladder will be needed to trim the upper tiers of the crown

Many experienced gardeners believe that the use of garden varnish on petrolatum and other refined petroleum products is harmful to the tree. They recommend using only those formulations based on biological materials, for example, beeswax or lanolin.

Cutting "to the ring"

Produced when the shoot is completely removed. In this case, you need to prune it as close to the trunk or parent branch as possible. Usually, at the base of the shoot, you can see a small ridge on the bark, as if ringing it. This roller contains cells that can multiply rapidly, which contributes to the early healing of the wound. It is necessary to try to make the cut go along the upper border of the ring. It is carried out in several steps:

On thick branches, an incision is first made on the underside of the branch by about a third, leaving a gap of 10–20 cm from the trunk.
To cut a thick branch as painlessly as possible for a tree, it is necessary to make a preliminary cut from the bottom
Then they cut from above and remove the branch to the side.
The remaining stump is cut in a ring.
Peel off with a knife, making the cut smooth. It heals better this way.
The cut must be cleaned with a garden knife until smooth
Disinfect.
Cover the surface with garden varnish or paint.
The cut surface must be covered with garden varnish.

Possible errors: a stump is left or the ring itself is cut off. In both cases, decay, the formation of hollows, the colonization of pests and infections can begin.

Correctly cut "on the ring" is located on the upper edge of the roller

There are times when the ring cannot be found. The way out of this situation is to cut to the bevel. To do this, mentally, or better with a marker or felt-tip pen, draw a line at the base of the cut branch along the trunk. The second line is drawn from the intersection of the trunk and branch, at right angles to it. Divide the resulting angle in half - along this line and make a cut.

Kidney pruning

Reception of formative pruning, when part of the branch is cut above the selected bud. The cut should be inclined, its upper part is located on the side of the kidney 0.5 cm higher.

The cut "to the kidney" should be inclined, its upper part is located on the side of the kidney by 0.5 cm higher

Pruning apricot seedlings

The formation of the apricot crown begins with shortening the seedling when planting. This is usually done at a distance of 60–80 cm from the ground. An exception is the case when they want to give the apricot a stale crown shape, then the seedling is cut by 20-30 cm. If there are branches, they are shortened by a third.

The apricot seedling is cut 60–80 cm above the ground, the twigs are shortened by a third of the length

In areas with harsh climates and great thickness snow cover, apricot is often grafted onto frost-resistant rootstocks to a considerable height - up to 1–1.5 meters. In this case, pruning of the seedling should be carried out above the grafting site, over which at least 4–5 buds or twigs are left.

Young apricot pruning

Formative pruning is applied to young apricots to obtain the selected type of crown. As a rule, this process takes place from the moment of planting within 4–5 years. By the age of six, the crown of the tree should be fully formed.

Types of crown formation

Before starting pruning, the gardener must choose the shape of the crown of the future tree.

Most often, an apricot is given a sparse-tiered crown shape as the most common. This formation is especially suitable for tall trees, as it is designed to restrain their growth.
V recent times the formation of the crown in the form of a bowl is gaining popularity. It is more applicable to plants of medium and small growth.
In areas with harsh climates and big amount snow in winter time some gardeners use stale shaping.

Sparse-tiered crown shape

This is a well-known and widespread formation of fruit trees. It is done like this:

Apricot crown in the shape of a bowl

Such formation provides illumination and ventilation of the crown, and also inhibits growth. It is simple to execute:

The author of these lines, during the break between their writing, walked with the dog close apartment building where he lives. It should be noted that many trees, including apricots, have been planted inside the residential area. The trees are quite old, no one was involved in shaping and pruning them. One of the apricots caught the eye.
Arrows indicate extra branches on an old apricot tree
Interest was aroused by the fact that, unlike other trees, this apricot in young age the crown was clearly shaped in the form of a simple bowl. The photo clearly shows that during planting, the trunk was cut to a height of about 50 cm. After that, four skeletal branches grew from different sides at about the same level from the ground. In the future, obviously, no trimming was carried out. As a result, one branch of the second order began to grow vertically and took on the role of the central conductor. In addition, there are also crossed and vertically growing branches that thicken the crown. In the photo, the base of the conductor branch is indicated by a red line. In this place, you need to cut it "on the ring", if you set a goal to put the crown in order. The arrows show other unnecessary branches.

Transferring a branch to a side shoot

This technique is used for any type of formation, when it is necessary to limit the growth of individual branches upward. It consists in the fact that a bud or a young shoot is chosen on the selected branch, directed in the desired direction. At this point, the branch is cut off. The left shoot will grow more horizontally (you can bend it for a while and tie it up in this position). Over time, you can already transfer this new shoot to a side branch. There are varieties of this technique:

In this way, you can form a crown of the desired diameter and fill it evenly.

Video: pruning an apricot

Regulatory and sanitary pruning of young apricot

Sanitary pruning is usually done in the fall. But sometimes it is also necessary in spring - after winter, some branches may be broken under the weight of snow, while others may be affected by frost. In this case, they are removed simultaneously with the forming trimming.

Regulating pruning is carried out by eliminating branches that are directed to the inner part of the crown, intersect and thicken it. It is especially important when shaping the crown in the form of a bowl.

How to prune old apricots

Typically, old apricots require anti-aging pruning. Its purpose is to extend the life of the tree and increase its yield.

Anti-aging pruning

There are three methods of rejuvenation.

Spring pruning of apricot is important and necessary. The execution rules are clear and accessible to both an experienced and a novice gardener. Annual, systematic work on pruning a tree is the key to a long and healthy life of the plant. The grateful apricot will respond with regular harvests of sweet, juicy berries.

Apricot is a favorite fruit of many, attracting with its aroma and extraordinary taste. In our area, apricot is consumed not only in its raw form, often they make jam, jam, jam, marmalade, and also prepare drying. The fruits of the apricot tree also have a positive effect on human health, fill it with vitamins and microelements. But in order for the apricot to grow actively and give a generous harvest, it needs some care, which includes pruning apricot in spring... The scheme of actions will help every summer resident to prune correctly, while maintaining the integrity of the tree.

Apricot pruning in spring - why is it necessary?

Before you start pruning, it is important to understand some points for yourself. Firstly, apricot, like many other fruit trees, yields only due to the presence of special fruit branches, which are popularly called fruit trees. These branches are active for a certain period, after which they need to be replaced with new ones. In addition, all stone fruit trees are known for their excessive fluid flow, especially in spring.

An adult apricot can only bear fruit on lateral or upper branches. This anomaly happens quite often and indicates insufficient care. To get rid of this, you can try to apply the following recommendations of experts on your own:

When carrying out spring pruning, the skeletal branches are completely cleared of lateral branches. The cut points are carefully worked out with antiseptics or special substances.
The main sign of the absence of apricot is improperly growing shoots. As practice shows, there will be no more fruits on such branches, so it is better to immediately get rid of such shoots.
Prune regularly and do not neglect these actions.

What does pruning a tree depend on? First of all, it is necessary to take into account the age and formation of the trunk. Depending on how old the apricot tree is, the shortening of the branches will have different lengths. There are many different schemes on the formation of branches, where each has both positive points and negative. A cypress-shaped formation is often found, when the tree consists of one powerful trunk, on the sides of which fruit branches are formed. The advantages of such a scheme - it takes up little space, the disadvantages - requires constant maintenance of tree branches and provokes rapid aging of apricots.

The most optimal form of wood trimming is saw palmette. This shape allows you to get the maximum amount of the crop while preserving the apricot itself. If you have never pruned a tree, it is best to start with a ball shape, as it is closer to the natural shape of an apricot and will give a good, stable yield when properly cared for.

How to prune an apricot? Scheme

Scheme of pruning apricots in spring

Basic rules for pruning apricots in spring:

Pruning should begin immediately after the first sap flow, until the tree is fully awake. If you are late, in the end, there may be a strong release of the gum.
A pruner should be used as a tool. Pruning is carried out directly under the kidney, without hemp, otherwise diseases on the tree may appear.
If you are sawing off a strong, large branch, then it is necessary to fill that place with garden varnish. Some people incorrectly use var bought in specialized stores, starting to smear the cut with a plastic-like composition. It is necessary to preheat the var to a liquid state, allow it to cool and only then smear a fresh saw cut. The procedure is recommended to be repeated once every 2 weeks.
When working with an adult tree, first thin out all weak branches and remove the shoots that grow downward.

Why prune an apricot: the purpose and objectives of spring pruning

So, the main and final goal of pruning an apricot (like any other plant) is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop, as well as to take care of the health of the tree itself (so that it bears fruit for as long as possible).

Thus, by pruning an apricot in spring, you solve the following tasks aimed at achieving the above goal:

improved access to sunlight;
security optimal ventilation inside the crown;
disease prevention.

In other words, apricot pruning is carried out in order to:

correctly form the tree so that it has a comfortable crown and gives stable yields;

Also, thanks to the formation of the correct crown by cutting it behind the tree, it becomes easy to care for, and the most important thing - harvest.

adjust the growth of the tree, i.e. increase or decrease;
eliminate the frequency of fruiting (so that a situation does not arise when one year the plant bears very abundantly, and the next there is nothing);
improve the quality of the fruits (after correct pruning, the fruits become larger and tastier).

When to prune apricots in spring: optimal timing

Spring pruning of apricot must be done before the start of sap flow(those. before bud break), in other words, when the tree should still be sleeping.

If you decide to prune during active sap flow, then the apricot may begin gum flow.

Controversial! At the same time, some gardeners advise to carry out the procedure when subzero temperatures are still confidently holding (but not lower than -10 degrees), while others recommend that the air temperature, on the contrary, be positive (about +5). In any case, the duration of the pruning period is before bud break.

Of course, it is quite difficult to name the exact dates: spring is different regions depending on the climate, it starts at different time... The main thing is to be in time before the start of sap flow.

However, one can call approximate (tentative) terms... So, pruning apricots in spring in Middle lane(Moscow region), as a rule, is carried out in late March - early April, in the South of Russia - at the end of February-March. And in the more northern (in the North-West - in Leningrad region) and cold regions (in the Urals and Siberia), spring pruning of apricots is carried out in the second half of April.

When is the best time to prune - in spring or autumn

According to most agronomists, the most the best time for pruning fruit trees is early spring, and it is imperative to be in time before the start of sap flow... In addition, the shorter the time between pruning and the start of sap flow, the better. In addition to saving energy, with the beginning of sap flow, its own defense mechanisms tree, which means that pathogenic organisms have practically no chance to penetrate into the "tree system".

As for the autumn pruning, it noticeably weakens the trees, their winter hardiness decreases. Therefore, it is believed that only winter-hardy breeds (varieties) can be cut in autumn, which tolerate frost well and are not at all afraid of freezing.

Note! There is a rather controversial opinion that only pome crops (apples, pears) can be cut in the fall, but stone fruits (apricots, peaches, plums, cherries) - only in the spring.

In addition, in autumn, trees, on the contrary, suspend any active defense (their own defense mechanisms), while fungal spores are still flying in myriads. In addition, with the onset of frost, the cambium freezes over, and it becomes difficult to overgrow the wounds after pruning.

So prune the apricot better in spring... Autumn pruning is resorted to only if in the spring you have little time (you did not have time) or / and the variety is frost-resistant enough.

As for the time, then autumn pruning apricot can be started when all the leaves of the tree have completely fallen off. In this case, it is important that the air temperature is positive, since trimming must be completely stopped already at a temperature of -5 degrees. It is in such conditions that wood freezes and becomes brittle and brittle.

Preparing for spring pruning of apricot

Every novice gardener must first understand the structure and structure of his apricot tree himself, in order to then better understand the basic rules for pruning it. And, of course, have all the required tools in your summer cottage arsenal. Let's start with them.

Instruments

To perform apricot pruning work, you will need the following tools and products for treating wounds after pruning:

Advice! The entire tool must be in proper and prepared condition - the pruner must be sharp (sharpened) and clean (or even better, disinfect it before trimming).

The structure of the tree: its structure

Before you start pruning, take a close look at your apricot tree and its silhouette. And then figure out which branches clearly look superfluous (in accordance with the rules below) and only then proceed with the direct pruning.

According to the rules, any tree should have a balanced or, more precisely, a crown evenly branched in all directions.

Thus, in order to carry out pruning according to all the rules, you need to know the structure of the tree. Therefore, first you should study and understand its structure:

You also need to be able to distinguish branch age, which is determined by the annual bud rings located at the base of annual growths.

It is also important to distinguish kidney types:

vegetative (growth, leaf) - from which new shoots and leaves develop (they are smaller and can be easily seen on a one-year growth);
fruit (floral) - from which flowers are first formed, and then fruits (larger ones are located on fruit wood).

By the way! Flower buds can also form on annual growths, especially in apricots. Although fruit wood is usually called 2-6 year old wood.

Fruit formations of apricot (like all stone fruits) are spurs or thorns, bouquet twigs. Although by mistake (by analogy with apple trees and pears, i.e. pome trees), they are called spears and fruit twigs.

In any case, you should easily distinguish between fruit formations and twigs so that they do not accidentally remove when pruning!

Video: apricot fruit formations - spears (thorns), twigs

Types and methods of trimming

Before moving on to the types and methods of pruning, you should familiarize yourself with the age periods that each fruit tree goes through:

height vegetative parts;
growth and fruiting (from first fruiting to stable yields);
fruiting and growth (from stable fruiting to maximum yield, while the activity of growth processes gradually decreases);
fruiting(maximum yield);
fruiting and desiccation(growth processes die out, fruiting begins to decline).

According to them, there are various types of pruning:

Formative(for young trees) - helps shape the crown correct shape and create a strong tree skeleton.
Regulatory(for fruiting ones) - to regulate fruiting.
Rejuvenating- (for old trees) - for their rejuvenation. However, it is usually held in several stages every spring.

Sanitary- it is used for trees of all ages in order to clean the crown from diseased, dried and broken branches. It is carried out as needed, regardless of the season.

There are also pruning methods(which are sometimes mistakenly referred to as species):

Shortening - during such pruning, the shoots are not cut completely "into the ring", but only are shortened by the "kidney"(as a rule, to the external one), which enhances the branching of skeletal branches and stimulates fruit formations, and also serves to subordinate the branches and rejuvenate the wood.

You can shorten both annual growth and perennial branches.

There are 3 types of shortening: strong (by 1/3), medium (by 1/4) and weak (by 1/5).

Strong - for the formation of strong shoots, weak - for laying fruit wood.

Thinning- carried out in order to rid the tree of unnecessary shoots, which thicken and shade the crown. In this case, the branches are completely removed. "On the ring".

Remember! The more light will fall on the branches, so above will yield... A no thickening and good air circulation inside branches - reliable protection against fungal diseases.

Basic rules and technique for pruning apricot

Consider how to act during pruning: how to hold the pruner and how to directly prune the branches.

The principle of subordination of branches

It is very important to observe the principle of subordination of branches, that is, all side branches (skeletal branches) obey the guide (central trunk) and should not be higher than it. This also applies to growth on skeletal branches.

How to hold a secateurs

Pruning shear blade should be always at the bottom.

Not right, if the pruner is facing downward with an emphasis, not a blade.

When you delete branch completely, then trimming is done "On the ring" (most often "for translation"), when cut only a part, then "Kidney"... Let's consider further in more detail.

Kidney pruning

The essence of this pruning is that when you thin out the crown, it is not at all necessary to cut the young branch completely. It is much more efficient to trim it to the outer bud (facing outward upward, not inward or downward) to change the direction of its growth. In this case, it is necessary to cut in such a way that the top of the cut reaches the top of the kidney, and the base of the cut is at the level of the base of the kidney. Then the cut will heal well.

Worth knowing! You should not get carried away with pruning "on the kidney", because many small cuts weaken the tree much more than a few large ones.

Important! You need to cut on the growth (vegetative) kidney, but not to flower (fruit). See differences above (vegetative less than fruit).

Cutting "to the ring"

The point is to completely cut the branch, and you need to cut it along the trunk (along the annular ridge - a thickened ridge at the base of the branch), namely, the saw line should pass along the bisector between the axis of the trunk and be perpendicular to the branch.

Rules for 3 cuts (cuts)

When pruning old and thick branches on the "ring", adhere to the rule of three cuts (cuts):

It is always necessary to cut a branch from the bottom, otherwise it can break under its own weight (weight), due to which a bark scuff is formed (similar to a torn burr on a finger). Thus, during the first cut, the branch is cut by 1/3.
The next cut is already done from above, while noticeably higher than the first. As a result, the branch is cut off completely (otherwise it may break off).
As a result, you will have a stump, which will need to be cut down with the third cut, while making it from above exactly "along the ring" (perpendicular to the trunk of the branch), leaving an annular overlap.

If any burrs remain, they should be trimmed with a sharp garden knife.

This is the only way to get a neat and correct cut.

Cropping "for translation"

Prune branches "On the ring" necessary only "for translation", i.e., on a branch or shoot, which will subsequently provide a cut nutrients and heal it. In this case, the branch (shoot) of the supply should be no thinner than 1/3 of the cut diameter.

Other important rules trimming:

Cropping should be balanced... If pruned heavily, the plant will sprout many shoots and yield low yields. If, on the contrary, the pruning is weak, then the harvest will be too much and the frequency of fruiting may occur (the next year there will be nothing). Usually, at once recommended cut no more than 1 / 4-1 / 3 crown, this especially applies to old trees, including when they are "rejuvenated".
Vertical branches (tops) are actively growing, and horizontal ones bear fruit.

Treatment of wounds (sections) after pruning

The wound trimming (sections) remaining after trimming must be processed according to all the rules:

To prevent moisture from entering the cut and rotting (due to a fungal or bacterial infection falling into the cut), it should be covered with special means... As a rule, this is used garden var.

Important! According to some gardeners, garden var is more harmful than beneficial. Now a more effective and useful remedy for treating wounds after pruning is a garden paste-putty "RanNet"... However, if there are still frosts (even small ones), then processing will be more efficient oil paint since garden var and RanNet paste at subzero temperatures can freeze and peel off. Also fit natural drying oil, linseed oil and brilliant green(everyone does not freeze). And you can mix 1 to 1 iodine and alcohol.

Obviously, than less area cut, the easier it is for the tree to heal the wound. So if a cut with a diameter of up to 2-3 cm, then it is not smeared generally. Have very large cuts only need to be processed at the edges to protect the cambium from drying out.
It is especially important to cover up large slices which are made " on the ring "on skeletal branches and trunk.

If cancerous ulcers form on them, then it will be very difficult to cure them, which means that you can lose the skeletal branch or, even worse, the entire tree (if on a trunk).

But when pruning "Kidney" the cut diameter is small enough and does not need processing.

Video: how to properly handle fruit tree cuts

What branches to cut and prune from apricot in spring

Now let's consider which branches are subject to complete removal, and which ones only need to be pruned.

ATTENTION! Be sure to read the material to the end and only after that start pruning your apricot.

In order not to harm the plant instead of benefit, it is required to strictly observe the rules for pruning.

First of all, you need to delete all diseased branches... Moreover, they need to be postponed separately, and then destroyed, burned.

Important! BOlives need to be pruned to healthy wood. In this case, it is advisable to do this "On the ring", method "For translation".

All are also subject to deletion. broken and broken branches, which, most likely, are also affected by some kind of disease.
Get rid of everyone crooked branches(growing through other branches or crossing, " rubbing against each other") and from branches growing inside the crown that shade good branches.

By the way! Such branches can be removed completely (by cutting "into a ring"), or they can be translated "to fruiting" by cutting "to a bud", while it must look outward (if you do the opposite, the operation will be meaningless).

Branches growing under very acute angle(ie, their angle of departure is less than 40-45 degrees) and forming the so-called "forks". They are also cut out.

Due to the load of fruits, such a branch can simply crack and a severe wound is formed.

As you understood from the picture above, in addition, you need cut off all branches growing down(at an obtuse angle).
Are subject to removal all tops(vertical shoots on skeletal branches, they are also called " wen"), and root suckers.

You also need to cut all shoots below the first tier(so they don't hang directly above the ground).

In short, pruning all unnecessary and interfering branches, which thicken and shade the crown, and also make it difficult to ventilate the tree.

Very important leave no competing branches(or thus replace the old ones with the new ones), cutting them "For translation".

This is especially true for branches competing with the conductor (main trunk). For example, if they have already become the same thickness, and both tend upward.

However, thick branches should not be pruned in one year. It is better to first remove most of the branches of the second order, and the next year to get rid of the competitor completely.

For the best branching and stimulation of fruit formations can be shortened "On the kidney", 1/3 (to the external kidney), all continuation branches — one-year increment.

Note! It is not necessary to shorten the already short branches (up to 20-30 cm), on the tips of which there are flower (fruit) buds - they have the entire harvest on them. Long (more than 40-50 cm) annual growth branches (with vegetative buds) are subject to pruning.

Thus, by trimming the tree, you can change the direction of its branching. In this case, it is necessary that the apricot horizontal branches predominated. From vertical is it worth either get rid of completely or artificially redirect them.

How to prune young and old apricots: shaping and rejuvenating pruning

Depending on the age of the trees, the specificity of pruning also differs - the formation of a young apricot (from the moment the seedling is planted) and the rejuvenation of the old culture.

For young seedlings, a shaping procedure is carried out, which helps to form the crown and strengthen the skeleton of the tree. For old trees, a rejuvenating procedure is applied, the purpose of which is to restore the regularity of fruiting.

Methods (types) of forming apricot: types of crowns

Any trimming should be repelled by the shaping!

However, it must be understood that shaping and pruning are different actions. If you can still “freak out” with shaping (go into creativity), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.

The method of shaping depends on the strength of growth of the apricot (variety) (which rootstock is weak, medium or vigorous), the ability to branch. It is also important to know what you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully designed tree.

Types of tree crowns

discharged-tiered;

One of the most popular types of forming fruit trees, including apricots.

cupped (vase-shaped);

The second most popular type of shaping and, perhaps, the most popular for apricot shaping.

fusiform (Spindle bush);

flat shapes- palmettes and cordons;
and many others.

The theory of the formation of an apricot in the form of a bowl is described in detail and clearly shown in the following videos:

Video: pruning an apricot 1 year after planting for future shaping in the form of a bowl

Video: pruning an apricot 2 years after planting (bowl-shaped)

Discharged-layered apricot shaping: pruning a 1,2,3,4-year-old tree

As a rule, young apricots are formed every spring, however, autumn formative pruning is allowed (but very undesirable).

Note! Which branches to delete, and which ones to leave, exactly how to cut them - everything is detailed and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraphs.

Note! .

right after spring planting(that is, we already have a 1 or 2-year-old seedling) - the main branch (central conductor) is cut off, or rather the top is 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that lateral branches are formed at the tree, otherwise speaking, the first tier was formed.

It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

for 2 years- lateral branches are formed near the tree, which should be cut to 1/3 of their length (to the outer bud), and only 2-3 of the strongest (ideally - 3), growing horizontally in different directions, should be left, and the rest should be cut “into a ring ". You should also trim the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the branching of the first tier (from the uppermost lateral branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. AND do not forget about subordination (trimming should be carried out at the same level).

Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier - 10-15 cm. The height of the trunk is 50-80 cm (but 80-100 cm is also possible).

for 3 years- lateral branches are cut off again, as well as young growth (branches of the second order) on these branches, again by 1/3, "per bud". In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally - 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/3. The top of the central trunk is trimmed again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.

The central conductor (main trunk) should be one, therefore all its competitors should be cut off "on the ring".

for 4 years — Last year forming an apricot (if you are forming in 3 tiers). Everything is done similarly to the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut off), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut "into a ring", by transferring to a side branch (3 branch).

Remember to follow the principle subordination of branches, Tier 1 - the longest branches, tier 2 - shorter, tier 3 - the shortest.

For 5 years and beyond it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also not to overlook sanitary and thinning.

Advice! Optimal height a tree from which it is convenient to harvest is no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even 2-3 m is better.

How to bowl an apricot: pruning a 1, 2 year old tree

If you want to form an apricot in the form of a bowl (simple), then pruning is carried out in the following sequence (by year):

Immediately after spring planting or at 1 year- in the absence of branching (side branches) on the seedling, you need to cut the main branch (central conductor) to a height of 50-60 cm (60-80 is possible) so that the tree has side branches.

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is already planted., i.e. if the seedling already has ramifications, so see the next step.

Next year (2 years) - the tree has lateral branches, which should be shortened by 1/3 (leaving 30-50 cm) on the outer bud. At the same time, you need to leave only 3-4 of the strongest (those growing close to the ground also do not fit), growing at an angle (rather horizontally than vertically) in different directions. Also, by transferring to the lateral shoot, the top should be cut off "on a ring".
For the 2nd or 3rd year... One-year increments were formed on each of the lateral branches. Now you need to choose 2-3 shoots on each of the branches, and cut out all the others that are close to the stem and thicken the crown. 2-3 remaining shoots are shortened by about 1/3, leaving 30-50 cm each.

As a result, your tree in the form of a bowl should have 8-12 main branches (3-4 of the first order and 4-8 of the second), from which you will receive a harvest from year to year.

Naturally, in the future you will have to trim them - regulate their growth and carry out anti-aging pruning.

Video: shaping an apricot in the shape of a late or belated bowl

Important! Don't forget in the fall or at the end winters- in early spring, especially young people, because they still have a thin bark and can easily burn it. Whitewashed to protect against sunburn, especially at the end of winter, when trees on the south side receive an increased dose of solar insolation, directly from the sun, and also reflected from the snow. You can, of course, not whitewash, but shade on the south side, for example, with a wide board, or wrap it with nonwoven material (spunbond).

Video: shaping an apricot with a low crown (cupped)

Rejuvenating old apricot

If you have an old apricot tree in your garden that bears little fruit, then rejuvenating pruning can and should be done to improve yield and increase its life.

Important! The main sign of the need for anti-aging pruning of apricot is a weak annual growth of branches - less than 20 cm.

However, you should first make sure that the selected tree is old, but healthy, in other words, if it is not diseased. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten its death.

The essence of rejuvenating apricot pruning in spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more fertile ones.

Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate; you don't need to cut everything (which will be listed below) in the first year.

If you remove too many branches at once then apricot, maybe shut up(release a lot of tops). However, everything can be easy fix summer pinch(removal of green young shoots - tops, if they grew up "in the wrong place" or went to grow "in the wrong place").

Step-by-step instructions for rejuvenating pruning of old apricots in spring:

Remember! It is only necessary to prune "for a ring" by removing "for transfer" (for lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches are subject to removal (sanitary pruning).
Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches, which literally hang above the ground.
Completely cut “on a ring” all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and shade the crown (growing inward, crossing, competing, growing with a “fork”).

In rejuvenation, the advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut or prune ("to the bud") great amount young thin shoots.

Get rid of all tops (vertical branches - "wen"), again "on the ring".

Pinch (cut into a "bud") all young shoots that are more than 40-50 cm in height.

Video: correct anti-aging pruning of apricot in spring

You can also watch this detailed video on the principles of anti-aging pruning of old trees:

Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning

By the way! Exists the cardinal way to rejuvenate a very old apricot(pruning to hemp). You can see about her in the following video:

Video: Tough Apricot Pruning

How to hold a crown or what to do if a tree grows up

Obviously, trees cannot be left unattended. It is enough not to cut the apricot for a couple of years to make it fly up.

Of course, you can do nothing, but so that you can fine harvest and spend processing apricots from diseases and pests, restraining the crown of the tree is simply necessary.

That is why, first of all, in this situation you need to spend thinning pruning, and at the end - remove all the highest vertical shoots " transfer to the ring " to lateral, in other words, to transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.

However, all vertical branches should not be cut out at a time, but you can increase their fruiting by making small ones above each vegetative (growth) bud notches with a hacksaw, which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will be laid.

Can also be shortened by 1/3 all last year's increase, which formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top, "Kidney".

And in this way you need to do every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and give a one-year growth every year.

Video: how to prune an apricot to hold the crown and preserve the harvest

and complementary:

Popular mistakes that occur during spring pruning of apricots among novice garden surgeons

The most common mistake when pruning apricots and other fruit trees is incorrect pruning. "On the kidney", when pruning is done either below the kidney (in which case it can freeze out), or too large a stump is left (which simply does not heal, it can rot and an infection will surely get through it). Correct cut needs to be done just above the kidney. Wherein bud should be at the level bottom cut.

Likewise for trimming "On the ring" when you leave too much foam, on which then completely useless branches grow, only taking away the strength from the tree. Moreover, the stump itself gradually begins to rot, its bark exfoliates. Also, it is impossible (it is even more dangerous) to cut too low, with the removal of the ring.

Other frequent mistakes performed by beginners during spring pruning of apricot:

Pruning is carried out in wrong timing... The worst time for pruning is the middle of summer, therefore, if you carry out the procedure at this time, you can weaken the tree for a long time and slow down its growth. Better then in the fall (after leaf fall), but optimally - in early spring, before bud break.
Not cut diseased, dry and broken branches (sanitary pruning is not carried out).
Remains too many extra branches, which shade the crown and do not allow it to be blown through normally (no air access).
It is forbidden scratch out a hollow "to healthy wood", hammer it with bricks or something else, for example, pour concrete, foam etc.

Filling just the opposite, accelerates decay trunk wood and shortens the life of the tree.

No need for special cut off old branches with mosses and lichens. They do not harm, but benefit.

It's another matter if young thin branches of trees are covered with moss, then in this case you need a rejuvenating pruning of the entire tree (especially old branches).

Thus, if you annually and in a timely manner carry out high-quality spring pruning of apricots according to all the rules, then the tree will definitely reward you with a large number of delicious apricots. After all, only a healthy tree with a properly formed crown can give stable yields.

Video: spring pruning of apricot - how to form a young tree correctly and how to rejuvenate an old one

Of course, when you read and see diagrams, pictures, everything seems simple and easy. But for some reason, when you approach your tree, everything becomes incomprehensible.

Well, that's okay. The main thing - no need to be afraid and just practice more often, because everything comes with experience.

In addition, pruning is, in a sense, a creative process: after all, the same branch (skeletal) can be pruned in different ways.

Advice! Alternatively, you can print yourself a cheat sheet with all the schemes and cropping rules.

In contact with

Harmonious growth and the degree of fruiting of any fruit trees directly depend on the gardener's compliance with the rules of care. The apricot tree loves lighted areas and grows best in southern and southwestern areas. The presence of thick and branched branches in a culture presupposes competent and timely pruning. Today you will learn how to properly prune an apricot at different times of the year.

Before talking about when and how to remove unnecessary branches, it is important to understand what the goals of this procedure are. To obtain a neat tree crown, it must be formed in a timely manner. If you don't, the branches will grow according to their own rules.

Formation is also necessary so that after a certain time the normal fruiting of the tree does not stop. At the same time, the presence of a dense and powerful crown is not a guarantee of abundant fruiting. If you do not cut it, the branches inside will quickly become thinner and brittle. On a tree devoid of pruning, fewer fruiting buds will appear, and the harvested crop will be small.

If the apricot crown is not pruned in the very first years, its branches will break due to stress. On such a culture, new shoots will not form. Abundant fruiting can even lead to the death of the apricot. Regular pruning apricots growing in your own garden allows you to give them a well-groomed look. And it is also aimed at extending the life of trees and getting large and tasty fruits for many years.

Types of pruning apricot

For apricot seedling and adult fruit tree 5 main types of pruning are carried out per season. For novice gardeners with minimal practical experience, we will explain: there are formative, regulating, restorative and sanitary pruning, as well as for the purpose of rejuvenation. Each of the methods is important for the tree and has its own characteristics.

Without the first, normal branching and the formation of branches of the first tier in the seedling are impossible. Subsequent types of pruning form the tree for better lighting sunlight and prevent overgrowth of the crown. Regulating the number of branches, pruning ensures the safety of future crops, not allowing the tree to weaken.

If the tree withstands the low winter temperatures, in the spring it will be able to do without a recovery procedure. Sanitary measures are carried out in the fall in the presence of diseases or pests. It is important to rejuvenate the crop in order to stimulate the appearance of its new shoots.

Pruning features

When to prune an apricot? Complex works are always carried out in spring, autumn and summer periods... Use well-sharpened and pre-disinfected instruments. You will need to prepare a garden knife, a hacksaw, a pruner, and a lopper. To know how to properly remove unnecessary branches, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the procedure at different times of the year.

In the spring

In the spring, it is advised to do it at the very end of March - early April. That is, in the presence of a comfortable ambient temperature and trying to be in time before active sap flow begins. It is necessary to carry out the formation of the crown of your culture in accordance with all the rules, plan sanitary and supporting procedures. How to prune an apricot? An adult at this time gets rid of frozen and broken branches. Otherwise, all the forces of the plant will go to the restoration of diseased shoots. This is always fraught with a decrease in the number harvested and a decrease in taste characteristics.

Summer

In June, striving to be in time before the 15th, the gardener must mint. Pinning takes place from mid-May. Pinching of all shoots of this year is required. It is important to pinch the shoots, but not more than 20-25 cm. The apricot is pruned in the summer in order to give the beloved culture a second youth. Young shoots that have appeared this year are cut so that their length is 20-30 cm. The shoots that appear after a couple of weeks leave only 3-4 viable shoots, the rest should be cut off.

By autumn, all cuts should be tightened, and the foliage should be restored. Additional kidneys are to be expected. Summer pruning of apricots is usually carried out no more than 1 time in 3-4 years. The planned procedure may be postponed due to a lack of moisture in the culture.

In autumn

In the fall, the tree is cleaned of diseased shoots. Fruit branches, except skeletal ones, should be shortened by one third of the total length. Cutting apricots in the fall is recommended in mid-October. If it rains or frosts come too early, this procedure is not carried out. It helps to restore the balance of leafy branches and those on which fruits are formed.

Crown formation

Experienced gardeners advise using well-known techniques to create a crown of a discharged-tiered type. To do this, no more than 7 main branches of the first row need to be brought out to a distance of 40 cm. The scheme will change annually. So that in the end the apricot is formed correctly, the procedure is carried out from the first year, taking into account the characteristics of each period.

First year

At self-formation the crowns of your apricot during the first year of life on the branch site can be cut so that their length to the ground does not exceed 90 cm.If there are shoots on a young tree, the main conductor is usually cut so that it is 20-30 cm higher than the rest of the branches. the branches are shortened in half. They are located on a tree along the row. The procedure is carried out "on the ring", be sure to remove the rest of the processes.

Second year

The work required for the laying of new central branches is underway. Viable shoots are usually cut using the subordination method. In this case, the branches located in the upper tier should be shorter than the lower ones. The normal length of the conductor is 40 cm from the last branch, the growth of which is directed to the side. The shoots themselves must be located 30 cm from last year's and from each other. Shoots that appeared on the tree last year are also subject to shortening. Those that grew during this season on skeletal branches, according to the rules, are shortened by half (for fast-growing varieties) or by a third of the length (for those with moderate growth).

Third year

During this period, in the cuttings, and now the future full-fledged trees, the last skeletal branches are laid. The main types of work do not differ from those carried out in the second year. However, the conductor is not shortened, but removed. To take care of overgrowing branches, you should shorten those that are not skeletal, but also grow from the trunk.

Fourth year

Most varieties by this time begin to actively bear fruit. The crown is already considered fully formed due to the absence of branches removed in previous periods on it. For 3 years, the tree will need sanitary and wellness treatments.

Mature tree

The old apricot, which is more than 4 years old, is in dire need of a rejuvenating procedure. As its branches can no longer set fruit. How to rejuvenate a culture? Skeletal branches should be shortened to a length of 20-30 cm. If fruits on your garden crop appear on distant branches, then in the spring it is advised to completely remove wood from existing skeletal branches. In summer, numerous young and healthy shoots will appear on them.

If you study all the rules and master the intricacies of the procedures, you can enjoy the well-groomed and abundantly fruiting trees growing in your garden.

Video "Correct pruning of apricot in spring"

In this video, you will learn how to properly carry out spring pruning of apricots.

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