Pouring the foundation for a country house or household objects is an extremely responsible event that may not always be successful. That is why work of this type should be carried out relying on the developed technology.

To fill the foundation with your own hands, you need to thoroughly study the technology of work.

Many owners of suburban areas prefer to entrust this difficult task to specialists, but in some cases the work can be done independently. It is important to know how to fill the foundation.

Stages of work

All construction work on the arrangement of the foundation of a country house or a summer cottage outbuilding will be correctly divided into several stages. This will allow not only to reduce construction costs, but also to build the house as efficiently and quickly as possible.

Earthwork and site marking are the main stages of foundation installation.

The stages of construction, thanks to which you can soon get a new home, include the following activities:

• site marking;
• excavation;
• preparation and installation of formwork;
• pouring concrete.

The first four stages can be conditionally referred to as preparatory, but directly considered one of the main stages of construction.

Preparatory work

To perform manual preparation, you should have all the necessary tools:

• shovel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• nippers or pliers.

Also, building materials should be available:

• wooden pegs;
• rope;
• sand;
• waterproofing material or plastic film;
• prefabricated panel formwork or lumber for its manufacture;
• special props and lintels for formwork;
• reinforcing mesh;
• soft wire.

The site is marked with pegs and a rope.

The marking of the site is carried out at the initial stage of construction (before pouring the foundation) and is based on the construction project accepted for execution. For its implementation, you will need special pegs and a rope. Pegs mark the dimensions of the future foundation, the location of its structural elements, the width and thickness of the walls of the house under construction.

When the marking is done, they begin excavation work. It is at this stage that it is necessary to make a trench for the formwork and foundation. The width of the trench must correspond to the established markings. When carrying out work, it must be remembered that the walls of the pit must be dug evenly and strictly vertically. The verticality, if necessary, can be checked by level. The depth of the trench should be about 20 cm higher than the depth of freezing of the soil in this region.

A sand cushion 10-20 cm thick will allow to achieve uniform shrinkage of the future foundation.To create it, it is necessary to pour sand on the bottom of the trench and tamp it well. Then the sand should be covered with some kind of waterproofing material, which can be used as an ordinary plastic film.

The next stage of such an event as pouring the foundation with your own hands is the installation of formwork. Nowadays, demountable formwork, made from wooden panels, has gained wide popularity among builders. It is not only easy to make, installing quickly and evenly, but if necessary, it can be made manually from lumber.

The formwork panels are propped up with supports to prevent the concrete from bulging out and create a monolithic frame.

When installing formwork panels in a dug pit, each of them should be propped up with pre-prepared supports, which will prevent the concrete from bulging and create a monolithic frame. On the top of the boards, it is necessary to stretch the lintels tightening the formwork. This will give the entire structure additional stability. In addition, when carrying out work on the construction of the formwork, you need to remember the height of the ground part of the foundation - the basement. If done correctly, its height should be exactly 30 cm or a little more.

The next step to be performed is by pouring the foundation. This action will give the strip foundation additional strength. In order to install the mesh more evenly and securely, some of its sections can be attached to the formwork panels using soft wire.

When the preliminary concreting steps have been completed, you can start placing the concrete.

Filling technology

Regardless of the region in which we fill them, the foundations of country houses and buildings must be strong and reliable.

A high-quality and correctly executed process will allow to achieve this.

To carry out work on pouring concrete, it is advisable to add a vibrator to all available tools, which can be rented while the house is being built. As a last resort, you can use a sturdy piece of reinforcement. It is also necessary to prepare several rolls of roofing material or plastic wrap.

For pouring a tape bath or a house, experts recommend using a concrete mixture with a brand not lower than M200. The M400 solution is considered the best option. If it is not possible to purchase this mixture from suppliers, it can be made manually from Euro cement and fine sand mixed in fresh water in compliance with the established proportions. The required amount of concrete can be calculated using a simple formula: the total length of the dug trench is multiplied with its width and depth.

Do-it-yourself foundation pouring should be done very carefully and carefully. It is necessary to fill all the free space with the solution, regularly using a deep vibrator to compact the concrete mixture. In the absence of such, a rod of reinforcement is used, which must be used to bayonet the poured mixture. Tamping of concrete is a mandatory procedure that allows you to eliminate air bubbles from the mixture, and air voids from the structure to be poured, creating a monolithic frame. The horizontality of the layers is checked by level.

A new concrete layer is laid only after the previous one has completely hardened.

When carrying out foundation work, a situation may arise when concreting will have to be done within a few days. In this case, experts recommend pouring the foundation in parts. That is, initially pour the first horizontal layer of concrete mixture over the entire formwork, then cover it with roofing material or film and leave it overnight. The next day, concreting can be continued.

If the time interval between the laying of new concrete layers is more than a day, it is necessary to wait until the previous layer of the mixture has completely hardened. It is not recommended to lay the mixture on a barely hardened layer. This can lead to the destruction of the concrete "crust" formed on the surface of the old layer.

Another important point that must be observed when pouring the foundation is that the laid concrete must be watered several times a day. This operation must be done for uniform drying of the concrete mixture. Watering with water is especially necessary in the hot season, when the water required for the mortar to set is actively evaporating.

In the first three days, it will be correct to water the foundation every 4 hours, then another 4 days, 3 times.

You can start building a house on a new foundation no earlier than 28 days after its creation.

The durability of the created structure depends on the reliability of the foundation. That is why, before creating the foundation, you must carefully prepare for such a process. First, it is worth determining what type of foundation should be used in a specific area. Most often, a tape base is created for the home. To understand how to choose the right foundation, it is worth considering popular options and learning about the features of creating a particular type of foundation.

The preparatory stage of creating the foundation

Strip foundations are the most popular for the following reasons:

• such a foundation can be created on almost any type of soil;
• cheapness;
• simplicity of the construction bookmark;
• reliability;
• no need to use heavy equipment and a team of workers.

Before starting the creation of the base, it is necessary to accurately calculate the required amount of materials. It depends on the weight of the house and the type of soil. At this stage, it is worth considering the cost of delivering materials to the construction site.

During preparation, it is necessary to clear the area of ​​debris and mark the area. Before marking, it is necessary to accurately calculate the load on the foundation. The width and depth of the base will depend on this. For marking, it is enough to drive wedges along the perimeter of the foundation and pull a cord between them. It is important to make sure that both lines are parallel to each other.

The optimal distance between the cords is 40 cm. To be sure that the wedges are positioned accurately, you need to measure the diagonals between opposite corners of the rectangle. If they are equal, it means that the tension is correct. Correctly selected dimensions will avoid unnecessary waste on material and make the base more reliable.

It is worth remembering that you should work with concrete in the summer. At the same time, it is important to choose a period without rains. Before you correctly fill the foundation for the house, it is worth learning about the features of the common types of foundations.

Features of the pile foundation

If a pile foundation is being created, after marking the territory, it is necessary to create holes for the foundation. In order for the foundation to be strong, it is necessary to dig depressions below the freezing level of the soil. It is worth remembering that after pouring, the foundation begins to settle, as a result of which cracks and other deformations may occur. But creating a sand cushion avoids these problems. To do this, you need to tamp the soil at the bottom of the hole, and then pour about 15 cm of sand. After that, it must be moistened and tamped.

It is worth remembering that to create a pile foundation, it is necessary to choose a cement grade of at least M200. In order to be sure of the reliability of the foundation, it is better to purchase material of the M400 brand. When choosing materials, special attention should be paid to the quality of the sand. It should be free of debris and large stones.

It is necessary to create a solution only in the amount that is required to complete the work on a certain day. When creating a pile base, first the hole is filled with a solution of about 15 cm. After that, a reinforcing cage is installed from several metal rods. They allow you to create a more reliable base.

Before choosing a foundation for a house, it is necessary to carry out geological exploration and determine which foundation will be more reliable.

Arrangement of strip foundation

Before the creation of the strip foundation, the marking of the territory is carried out in the same way as during the installation of the piles. During the marking, it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the cords is 50-60 cm. In order to understand how to properly fill the foundation, it is necessary to consult with experienced builders in advance.

After digging trenches, it is necessary to create a sand cushion with a height of about 20 cm.It is worth remembering that it must be moistened with water and tamped well. After that, concrete mortar is poured onto the sand. The thickness of the layer of this material should be approximately 15 cm. A reinforcing cage is laid on the hardened concrete, which is then poured with concrete to the ground surface.

If the foundation is created above the ground, timber formwork is constructed. Removal of the boards should only take place after the concrete is completely dry.

Important! Before pouring the foundation under the house, a waterproof material should be attached to the inside of the wooden boards. This will prevent the boards from absorbing moisture.

Formwork creation rules

Before you start creating formwork, you need to know about some of the features of this process. It is worth remembering that the formwork panels must be securely fixed, since they will be affected by a large load. For this, spacers, struts and pegs are installed. To avoid common mistakes, you should follow a few basic rules:

1. To prevent the foundation from skewing, it is necessary to fasten each formwork element using a building level.
2. The final result is strongly influenced by the quality of the shield being created. That is why it is important to make the formwork without gaps, into which the concrete solution can penetrate.
3. In order for the strength of the created frame to be sufficient, you need to use boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. In this case, the spacers and pegs must be made of bars, the thickness of which is at least 50 mm. If the boards are thinner, they will begin to deform after pouring and the foundation will be uneven.
4. To make the formwork more rigid, spacers and pegs should be installed at a minimum distance from each other.
5. Before starting to create the formwork, you need to carefully level the soil in the trench and make all surfaces even.

To create wooden formwork, you do not need to have experience in creating such structures. To do this, you only need boards and nails of the appropriate length.

Reinforcement cage creation

The reinforced frame is made of rods of various diameters and serves as a "skeleton" of the foundation. The dimensions of the reinforced frame are created taking into account that there is a layer of concrete around it with a thickness of about 5 cm.

A frame is created by tying the rods with wire. At the same time, it is important to install smooth reinforcement vertically, and embossed reinforcement horizontally. After tying, the rods should form square or rectangular cells. The creation of a reinforced frame can be done in two ways:

1. Inside the created trench. This option is acceptable in the absence of construction equipment. With this method of creating a reinforcing cage, only the inner or outer side of the formwork is mounted. This method is most often used when a strip foundation is created inside a pit.
2. Creation of the frame outside the formwork. With this method, the frame is created at the construction site, after which it is placed inside the formwork using a truck crane.

Features and types of foundations. How to make a foundation for a house without mistakes? The main stages of laying the foundation and expert advice ...

From Masterweb

22.04.2017 18:27

Sooner or later, any builder is faced with the need to organize work to prepare the foundation for the construction of a house. With a lack of practical experience, time should be devoted to studying the features of the processes of formwork construction, reinforcement binding, pouring and protecting concrete foundations.

Assignment of types of foundations

Let's put it bluntly: not all plots have conditions that are ideal for building a house. At first glance, everything looks pretty rosy: good ecology and appearance, minimum noise, proximity to natural nature. But sometimes the results of geological surveys indicate the significant engineering complexity of the foundation for a house. Fortunately, at the moment, quite a lot of varieties of foundations have been invented, and even for very difficult conditions of geomorphology.

There is no special point in talking about strip foundations. They are designed for stable dry soils of high density and are arranged according to the simplest scheme. However, strip concrete foundations can have varying degrees of burial depending on climatic conditions. You can also distinguish several typical sections of the tape: beam, T-shaped, trapezoidal, etc.

Pile and pile-grillage foundations are used on soils that do not have sufficient supporting capacity even at normal depth. In this variant, several variants of the device are possible, the complexity of which depends on the number of storeys and the architectural features of the building. In the general case, such a foundation is a kind of shallow tape, only the tape does not perform a supporting function. It distributes the load to the piles, which rest on a deeper and denser soil layer.

The third type of foundation for a house is slab structures. They are used when high-quality thermal insulation is required or when erecting buildings on special categories of soil: highly plastic, heaving, water-saturated and sandy. An ordinary slab is unremarkable, however, in order to save materials, it can have a cross mesh of reinforcing ribs, or contain engineering communications or channels for them.

Excavation

When arranging almost all types of foundations, excavation of the earth is required. Firstly, the walls of the trenches are convenient to use as formwork for the underground part. Second, the deeper the reference plane is, the less horizontal cross-sectional area is required for sufficient stability. The depth of excavation is determined by the results of geotechnical surveys.

It is possible to prepare trenches for the foundation either manually or using an excavator method. In the latter case, the bucket width should be only 75–80% of the belt width at the top. In conclusion, there is always a manual cleaning of the walls and bottom. After that, the bottom of the trench is prepared with an incompressible and non-porous bedding: first sand, then fine gravel. The minimum thickness is 20–25 cm in total, but the backfill can be thicker depending on the size of the foundation and the hydrogeological conditions.

Preparation can also be done with concrete of the M100 or M150 brand. This helps to more accurately withstand the lower protective layer of the reinforcement, as well as to more technologically close horizontal and vertical waterproofing in the presence of a basement. After preparing the bottom, the walls of the trench are covered with plastic wrap, this is done to reduce the release of cement milk from the mixture.

Formwork construction of the aboveground part

One of the main difficulties in the construction of the foundation is the construction of high-quality and rigid formwork. With an irresponsible attitude at this stage, it is impossible to withstand the geometry of the foundation, which can lead to serious problems in the construction of load-bearing walls and decoration. Also, quite often, due to insufficient strength, the formwork breaks, which ultimately results in the deterioration of a large volume of expensive material.

In total, there are three types of formwork: panel, sheet and non-removable foam. The difference between the first two varieties is not high: in one case, the enclosing surfaces are formed with shields from boards of 25 mm or thicker - on average, 1 mm is added for every 5 cm of the foundation height. In the sheet version, the decks are formed with plywood, OSB or chipboard, reinforced from the outside with stiffening ribs. Mostly waterproof materials with a thickness of 14 to 20 mm are used. The need to use sheets is dictated by high requirements for the smoothness of the foundation surface, which is important both during finishing and when installing hydro and thermal insulation. Additional advantages are the convenience of work, high speed of assembly and dismantling, the possibility of repeated use (movable formwork) and subsequent use, often there is an economic benefit.

When assembling plank decks, the boards are knocked apart and reinforced with vertical inserts from a bar. The thickness of the latter is 2 times greater than the board, the width should be sufficient to overlap the butt ends of the order of 80–100 mm on each side. If the shields have a height of more than a meter with a considerable length, they are additionally reinforced with horizontal stiffeners of the same section as the vertical inserts.

The most vulnerable places of the formwork are the corners and the bottom zone. In these places, both high static pressure of concrete and water hammer from the discharge of the mixture act. For this reason, the bottom of the formwork must be tightened and reinforced through the existing stiffening ribs. This is done with the help of studs (you can dress them in sleeves from the MP-pipe to be reused) or wire clamps, sometimes a bunch of reinforcement with a penetration from the outside is practiced. An important point - metal embeds remain in the concrete and should not touch the working and distribution reinforcement. Between the metal rods, a protective layer of about 15–20 mm must be respected. When tightening the ties of the lower zone, it is necessary to insert temporary spacers of the required length inside the formwork.

In order for the formwork to maintain its spatial position, it is burst from the ground with boards at an angle of 45-60% to the horizon. A board, set with an edge, rests against a stake or directly into the ground, is knocked out, and then screwed to one of the vertical crossbars. Sometimes additional strips are tied to the braces to provide support for the lower zone; it is also recommended to tie the stops in the soil together with one or two lines of boards. A well-tightened bottom of the formwork does not need support, but for safety reasons it can be compacted with embankments from the soil.

Calculation and binding of reinforcement

Independently calculating the reinforcement is allowed only for small concrete structures with low responsibility. Correctly designing a reinforcing cage is not an easy task and requires special knowledge. At the same time, the matter is not limited to the calculations themselves, it is also necessary to correctly lay and tie the reinforcement elements together so that they retain their position after the concrete is poured.

One of the general principles of the distribution of reinforcement is as follows: the frame follows the shape of the concrete structure with a small uniform inward indentation, due to which outer protective concrete layers of 35-50 mm are formed. The further the reinforcement is spaced from the center of the foundation section, the better it does its job.

It is believed that the total steel content in the foundation cannot be lower than 0.1% of the cross-section of reinforced concrete products. Laying of reinforcement should be carried out taking into account the requirements for ensuring the minimum protective layers of concrete, which are provided for by the project. Plastic reinforcement clamps will be a good help in this matter: flat plugs for support on the bottom of the formwork and "stars" that distance the frame from the side walls.

Pouring concrete, shrinkage

In general, the foundation device has the following order: preparation of trenches, installation of formwork, lubrication of internal planes, assembly and placement of the frame. Pouring concrete is the finale of building a foundation, but even here a great deal of attention and care is required.

The mixture can be fed into the formwork in two ways. The first one - directly from a concrete mixer or truck mixer, the second - with reloading by means of a concrete pump. With purely gravitational pouring of the mixture into a mold, the physical effect on the formwork is minimal: the reinforcement dampens the fall due to its elasticity, and small portions do not have enough weight to spoil the geometry.

The situation is completely different with pumping. The liquid moves in jerks and is forcefully ejected from the sleeve in large enough portions. At the same time, the already poured mass transfers the effect on the formwork in full, from which both discrepancies of the joints and swelling are possible with insufficient strengthening of sheet materials.

In order to avoid such phenomena, the foundation must be poured along the perimeter: first up to half or a third of the height, and then repeat the route once or twice. The optimal pouring height is considered to be 0.5 meters in one pass, however, with a total belt height of more than 1.5 meters, it is recommended to wait some time before setting. In monolithic concreting, a pause of up to 20 hours between layers is allowed, with a longer period of time, the formation of cold seams is possible.

Each poured concrete layer must be compacted. This can be done either with a manual pin or with a submersible vibrator. In the latter case, try not to be zealous with shrinkage in one place and immerse the tip no deeper than 2/3 of the height. If additional compaction is required, it is better to carry out it according to the same principle as pouring: along the perimeter with breaks for gravitational settling.

Protection and insulation

The formwork is often in a hurry to remove, which causes open edges of the concrete structure and accelerates the evaporation of water. The concrete must retain the moisture content of the surface layers for at least 7 days and in the core - up to 28 days. Therefore, if the formwork breaks down for 3-5 days in clear hot weather, the concrete will have to be wetted several times a day. An early breakdown of the formwork may be dictated by the need to reuse lumber in construction: in this case, they are not lubricated, but torn off before the final setting of the concrete surface.

Waterproofing by injection and penetrating compounds is performed before the completion of hydration, approximately 10–12 days after pouring. For the application of roll or coating insulation, concrete is given time to build up the design strength over the full curing period. As mentioned above, the formwork may not be removed at all, performing insulating and waterproofing functions. In this case, the decks are sheathed from the inside with special materials: foam plastic, glass insulation and others. published by econet.ru

Kievyan street, 16 0016 Armenia, Yerevan +374 11 233 255

To make the foundation correctly, you need to carefully study the options for the types of construction and their features. The construction of the underground part is carried out taking into account the following requirements:

• economic expediency;
• reliability;
• strength;
• durability;
• stability.

Before starting construction work, you should conduct a study of the soil. The choice of the correct type of base is influenced by the total weight of the house, the strength characteristics of the soil and the level of groundwater. The foundation, carefully made and built in compliance with the technology, will last a long time and will not cause problems during operation.

Preparatory stage

It's worth starting with pits or drilling. The main goal during this event is to find out what soils are located on the site, as well as to find out the level of occurrence of groundwater. It is necessary to lay the foundation in compliance with the rule: the sole mark should be at least 50 cm above the level of the water horizon.

How to do soil research correctly? For this, two methods are used:

• a fragment of pits (deep pits, the dimensions in the plan are usually 1x2 m);
• hand drilling.

In the first case, consider the soil on the walls of the pit. They also check if water has come from the bottom. In the second version, the soil is examined on the blades of the tool.

After you have determined what kind of soil is on the site, you will need to find its strength indicators. This can be done using special tables.

The cost of laying the foundation for a house can be up to 30% of the estimate for the entire building. To avoid cost overruns, you need to perform a calculation that will allow you to find the optimal design parameters that will simultaneously guarantee minimum costs, strength and reliability. For your convenience, you can use the online calculation.

Types of foundations

Do-it-yourself foundation construction involves the use of several technologies:

• ribbon;
• combined options.

Columnar supports have a low bearing capacity. It is possible to install monolithic pillars or assemble them into compact concrete blocks. Both options are great for DIY work.

The pile foundation for a house is of three types:

• driven (not recommended for private buildings due to the need to attract equipment);
• (suitable for the construction of a brick or concrete house);
• (ideal for light timber buildings).

Piles reduce the amount of earthwork. There is no need to dig trenches or a foundation pit, to take out a large amount of soil outside the site. Thanks to this quality, a device of this type of foundation is a very economical choice. The main disadvantage will be the impossibility of equipping a basement or underground for utilities. In this case, the basement of the building is covered with decorative materials.

Another advantage of piles is the possibility of using it in a swampy area. Even if the water table is close to the surface of the earth, the supports provide the necessary bearing capacity.

The next option is tape. It can be made monolithic or from blocks. The second option is rational to use for mass construction. The strip foundation is:

• buried (for buildings with a basement, brick and concrete structures);
• (for timber and frame houses);
• not buried (technology of pouring the foundation for small buildings on a solid foundation).

Before making the tape, it is worth checking the groundwater level and compliance with the rule that the sole cannot be closer than 50 cm to the groundwater horizon. Otherwise, there is a high probability of basement flooding, a decrease in the bearing capacity of the base and destruction of the materials of the supporting part of the building.

What to do with a high GWL? If the structure is made independently of brick or stone, screw piles will not work, and for bored piles, it will be necessary to make dewatering. Fill would be an excellent option. In this case, a non-recessed or slightly recessed base is made. The thickness of the slab is assigned depending on the load, on average 300-400 mm.

How to fill the foundation for a house

Monolithic type of foundation is the best option for private housing construction. In this case, laying can significantly save on transportation and installation of structures. You do not need to hire a crane to install the elements in the design position or KamAZ to transport concrete blocks and slabs.

Monolithic foundations can be made from prefabricated concrete or mix the mortar yourself with a concrete mixer. The first option is recommended. The fact is that it is very difficult to strictly observe the proportions of the composition in artisanal conditions. For factory concrete, such a guarantor will be a passport, which indicates the verified indicators of the material.

To make the material yourself, you will need to prepare clean water, cement, sand and crushed stone (or gravel). They are mixed with each other strictly observing the proportions that depend on what grade of concrete you want to get. If you add a little more sand or rubble to the composition than required, the strength of the supporting part of the building will suffer.

To properly fill the foundation, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of concreting:

• The concrete must be poured in one step at intervals of up to 1.5 hours. If you take long breaks from work, the mortar sets and concreting seams form, which weaken the structure. The technology allows horizontal seams to be made if absolutely necessary. It is unacceptable to arrange a monolithic foundation with vertical seams, since in this case the support of the house will not be able to resist the deformations of the soil.
• The class of concrete is chosen depending on the type of support. For a columnar or pile foundation, class B 15 is sufficient. For tape, grades from B 15 to B 22.5 are needed. Building the foundation of a house using slab technology requires concrete of grades B 22.5 or B 25.
• After pouring, the material should gain strength. On average, this takes 28 days. You can continue construction work after the construction has set 70% of the brand strength.
• It is best to work in warm, dry weather. The ideal average daily temperature for concrete hardening is + 25 ° C. At temperatures below + 5 ° C, the material practically does not freeze. For normal hardening, in this case, special additives and heating are used.
• The concrete should be cared for within 1-2 weeks after pouring. It consists in wetting the surface with water.
• For self-mixing the mixture, you will need cement, sand, crushed stone (gravel) and clean water. The proportions depend on the strength class. From the factory, the material is delivered by a concrete mixer - it allows you to extend the life of the solution and deliver it over relatively long distances.

How to fill the foundation correctly? In general, the work is performed in the following order:

1. installation of formwork and reinforcement cage;
2. laying waterproofing material in the formwork;
3. pouring concrete;
4. its sealing by vibration or bayonet;
5. curing;
6. stripping work (if necessary).

For quick execution of work together with a concrete mixer, it is recommended to order a concrete pump. Concrete manufacturers are usually ready to provide this technique. In this case, it is required to use a concrete mixture of grades P3 or P4 in terms of mobility. Otherwise, the technique breaks down.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring a strip foundation

Concreting is considered on the example of a monolithic tape. To usher in the supporting part of the structure, construction is necessary. To do this, use a cast-off and a construction cord. It is necessary to show the edges of the tape.

After marking, soil development is performed. In the absence of a basement, it is enough to dig a trench. At its bottom, you need to make a sand pillow. It performs several functions:

• leveling the ground;
• prevention of frost heaving;

The edges of the trench should follow exactly the lace

Next stage - . In this capacity, the material laid down in the estimate is used: boards (removable type) or expanded polystyrene (non-removable). The second option serves not only as a form for pouring concrete, but also for insulating the underground part of the building. When installing the formwork, I raise the plinth to the desired height.

09:19

The construction of a private house always begins with the preparation and pouring of the foundation. Arrangement of the base of the house is one of the most important and crucial stages of construction, it requires maximum attention and thoroughness when carrying out work.

When building a residential building, you can use the following types of foundations:

• pile,
• tape,
• monolithic.

For a certain type of building, one or another type of foundation is suitable. For example, a pile pile is necessary when the soil on the site is weak enough to organize other types of house foundations in it.

The strip foundation is good because it can be equipped in most types of soil without unnecessary preparatory work.

In the presence of "floating" soil - sand or so-called quicksand, it is recommended to use a monolithic or slab foundation.

For most country houses under construction, a strip foundation is chosen.

Preparatory stage

Preparation before pouring the foundation for a house is of great importance. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the site for the base of the house according to the drawing drawn up earlier. The depth and thickness of the foundation, its location on the site depends not only on the terrain, but also on the composition of the soil. For example, swampy or clayey soil requires a pile foundation, unstable soil requires a monolithic foundation, and strip foundations are suitable in the presence of mixed soil.

Foundation marking scheme

The markings are carried out with rope and pegs. Having chosen the required type of foundation and having carried out the marking according to the drawings, you can start organizing the holes for the foundation. For a pile foundation with round piles, it is necessary to use a manual or electric drill, a strip foundation - a shovel and a drill, if it is not possible to use special equipment. To obtain a monolithic base, you will need powerful construction equipment.

Pile foundation

After marking on the site, you can begin to organize holes for the foundation. For greater strength, their depth should be below the level of soil freezing. After pouring, the foundation usually subsides, and you can prevent cracking or any other deformation of the base of the house by building a sand cushion in each hole. To do this, the soil at the bottom of the hole must be tamped, poured about 15–20 cm of sand on top, spilled with water and tamped well as well.

Fill in the solution

The amount of concrete solution for the pile foundation can be calculated as follows: the area of ​​the support (the bottom of one hole) is multiplied by the height of the pile. The support area of ​​one pillar is understood as the fourth of the diameter of the hole made in the ground in a square, multiplied by 3.14 (1 / 4πD 2). The height of one pile is the sum of the depth of the hole and the length of the pile that will be above the ground.

Pile - device diagram

Note! The concrete solution must be prepared from cement grade not lower than M200. However, a truly solid foundation for a house can only be obtained with M400 cement. Attention should be paid to the quality of the sand - it should be fine-grained, without large stones. For a high-quality concrete solution, it is necessary to mix cement, sand, crushed stone and water in a proportion determined by the brand of cement used.

It is necessary to prepare the concrete solution in such an amount that it does not remain after the completion of construction work. First, the hole is filled by 10-15 cm. Fittings are placed in it - a metal pipe or several metal rods with a thickness of at least 1 cm. The fittings will give the foundation additional strength. After placing the reinforcement in the prepared holes, the concrete is gradually poured to the very top.

Strip foundation

When arranging a strip foundation in a pre-marked area, trenches are equipped with a depth below the freezing level. Their width should be no more than 50-60 cm.

Tape

Before pouring the foundation under the house, a sand pillow is set up - at least 15-20 cm thick; it should be spilled with water and well compacted. At the bottom of the foundation, the first portion of concrete mortar is poured - no more than 10-20 cm thick. A reinforced mesh is laid on the primary mortar, and concrete mortar is poured from above to the ground surface.

If the strip foundation is to protrude above the ground, it is necessary to pre-construct the formwork from wooden planks. The concrete solution must be poured into the formwork. Wooden formwork boards can only be removed after the concrete solution has dried.

Waterproof film

Note! When pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to attach a waterproof film to the inside of the wooden boards - it will prevent the absorption of water from the solution by the wooden boards.

Schemes

Screw pile mounting options

Sectional pile foundation

Monolithic foundation diagram

Shallow foundation scheme