A mesmerizing houseplant with bright flowers of unusual shape, which from a distance seem to be plastic, is called anthurium. The flowers, which look tough in appearance, are called "flamingo flower" due to their exoticism.
Optimal growing conditions
In order for the plant to delight you not only with bright foliage, but also beautiful flowers, it is necessary to fulfill all the conditions for its cultivation.
Soil composition for anthurium
For planting indoor anthurium, a soil mixture is used, which consists of humus, leafy earth, peat and sand. All components should be in a 2: 1: 1: 0.5 ratio.
To increase water and air permeability, about 15% of more voluminous fillers are added to the soil mixture: cones, pieces of brick, charcoal, sphagnum moss. The soil should be slightly acidic - PH from 5.5 to 6.5.
The potting mix can be made with a mixture of flower soil and orchid substrate in equal proportions. The addition of moss will be positive.
Temperature and humidity
Since anthurium is a tropical plant, sudden temperature fluctuations are undesirable for it. The plant thrives at 20-25 ° C. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 16 ° C.
Anthurium prefers high humidity and does not tolerate drafts, so foliage should be sprayed regularly.
Important! Do not spray anthurium inflorescences, as spots appear on them, and this negatively affects the duration of flowering.
To increase the humidity, sphagnum moss is placed on top of the pot. It retains moisture well and stimulates the growth of plant aerial roots. Also, to increase humidity, you can keep dishes with water next to the plant, the vapors of which will bring the climate on the windowsill closer to the tropical one.
Correct lighting
The plant is quite shade-tolerant, but for normal growth and flowering, bright lighting is needed without direct sunlight. Anthurium will grow in the shade, but not bloom.
Lack of light negatively affects flowering, although the plant does not tolerate direct sunlight. In winter, additional lighting can be used for flowering.
How to care for anthurium to bloom
If you properly care for the anthurium, then it will delight you with bright foliage and colorful flowers. Anthurium belongs to capricious plants.
It may feel normal on your windowsill, but not bloom. Consider the factors that can affect the lack of flowering:
Proper watering of the soil
The plant needs a temperature of 18-20 ° C to set a flower bud. Therefore, if the anthurium is near the battery central heating, then this negatively affects the flowering process. Humidity should be high, but make sure that over-watering does not lead to root rot.
It is necessary to water the plant warm water every 3-4 days, in winter time watering is reduced to once a week. Anthurium reacts to both excessive watering and dry soil by yellowing the leaves.
If water remains in the pan after watering, then it must be drained after half an hour.
Prerequisites for correct watering is an warm waternot containing lime, since anthurium prefers a slightly acidic substrate.
Soil fertilizing
In the flowering process, fertilizing the plant with fertilizers for anthurium flowering plays an important role. The main thing here is not to overdo it. To do this, feed regularly, but the concentration of the solution recommended in the instructions must be reduced.
Important! Top dressing is carried out twice a month in warm weather and once a month in winter.
In order to effectively feed anthurium at home, it is necessary to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers... Feeding a young plant can be carried out only after complete rooting.
If the plant is sick, then feeding must be suspended. The plant needs rest and recovery.
Did you know? There are ways to stimulate flowering. For this in early spring water the plant with warm water (40-50° C ). This will stimulate flowering. But it should be remembered that the plant must rest from flowering and have time to build up foliage. Constant stimulation of flowering can lead to its death.
Plant rejuvenation
The old plant loses not only its decorative appearance, but also ceases to bloom.
If your anthurium gives many side shoots or has turned into a bush with small foliage and small flowers, or has only one rosette of leaves on a trunk covered with remnants of old leaves, then all these signs indicate the need rejuvenate the plant.
The rejuvenation process is quite simple. Since anthurium has aerial roots, it is necessary to cut off the top of the plant with 2-3 aerial roots and plant in the soil.
For a cut plant, watering must be reduced, and after a while lateral rosettes of leaves will appear. When they grow up, the flower can be propagated by dividing the bush.
If you want to rejuvenate a plant, but it does not have aerial roots, then you must first grow them. For this, the bare part of the stem in the places of the rudiments of aerial roots is wrapped in sphagnum moss and regularly moistened. Roots will sprout through the moss very quickly and this will allow rejuvenation without any risk of plant loss.
Safety rules for caring for a poisonous flower
Anthurium belongs to poisonous plants... Therefore, you need to ensure that children or pets do not chew the leaves and fruits of the plant. Signs of poisoning may include vomiting, diarrhea, or skin dermatitis.
When replanting the plant, the skin of the hands can be protected with rubber gloves, and after caring for it, do not forget to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.
In case of contact of plant juice on the skin or eyes, rinse large quantity water given parts of the body. If parts of the plant have entered the stomach, it is necessary to induce vomiting to remove them and drink absorbents. Call an ambulance for severe symptoms of poisoning.
Although anthurium is poisonous, it belongs to the recognized air purifiers.
Did you know? Anthurium patronizes people born under the sign of Leo. He gives them love, happiness and stimulates them to be creative.
How to transplant anthurium correctly
A young plant must be replanted annually, and an adult once every 3 years. If this is not done, then the leaves of the plant will turn black, and the flowers will soon fade.
Anthurium transplantation must be carried out in the following sequence:
- Remove the flower from the old pot by the base of the stems and remove the dirt between the roots. This can be done with a wooden stick and then under running water.
- Remove damaged roots if necessary. Sprinkle the slices with activated charcoal or cinnamon. To stimulate root growth, you can soak the roots of the plant for 2 hours in a solution of any stimulant.
- Place a drain on the bottom of the pot. It will prevent root rot when over-watering.
- After adding a small layer of soil, place a flower in the center of the pot. Spread out the roots and cover them with earth. The soil layer above the roots must be at least 2 cm.
- Water the plant well.
Reproduction methods
There can be many ways to reproduce anthurium, but we will consider the most common.
Division
Experienced gardeners in the best way the reproduction of anthurium is called fission from the mother plant. This type of breeding is suitable for adults. large plants... To do this, the plant is taken out of the pot and using sharp knife divided into parts.
Have different types and varieties of anthurium, the shape and size of the bedspread and the cob are different. The ear can be longer or shorter than the cover, straight or curled in a spiral.
Anthurium cannot be called a very capricious plant, but just like a Tradescantia herb, it will not grow and bloom. It needs a special approach - special soil, moderate watering, good lighting.
What to plant anthurium in
One of the most important conditions successful cultivation anthurium is the correct choice of substrate. It must hold the plant well, retain moisture and nutrients, easy to dry and breathable. Moreover, it should not quickly decompose, cake and thicken.
Soil for anthurium:
1. Sour soil like "Azalea" mixed with peat, expanded clay, sphagnum, pine bark. The finished substrate should be loose, breathable, airy, while moisture-absorbing. In such a substrate, anthurium feels great.
If there is none, then the substrate is "begonia" + sphagnum + perlite. You can also add charcoal here.
2. Most guidelines recommend a substrate for growing anthuriums, made up of 1 part of rough sod land, I part coarse sand and 2-3 parts of leaf humus with the addition of pieces of charcoal. However, such a substrate is far from optimal and requires annual replacement.
A good substrate is pine bark with a piece size of 2 to 5 cm, but it is mainly applicable in greenhouse culture, subject to regular feeding. The best results are obtained with a substrate made up of 2 parts pumice (1 to 3 cm pieces), 2 parts pine bark (pieces of 2-5 cm in size), 1 part of coarse fibrous peat and 1 part of rotted horse manure. Such a substrate is well aerated, sufficiently water-absorbing and retains nutrients well. For young plants, smaller fractions of its components are used. Good results can also be obtained when using a substrate made up of equal parts of large expanded clay (2-3 cm in diameter), coarse peat and pine bark (fractions 2-3 cm). Some growers use glass wool or slag wool, crushed coconut shells, charcoal and even broken brick to grow anthuriums.
3) Planting in clean moss
4) Transplanted into a substrate for bromeliads and orchids (or 1 part leaf, 1 part coniferous, 1 part peat land and 0.5 part sand
For Anthurium, I make up the earth myself.
I take soil for violets or you can use other soil for indoor flowers or aroids, add a little perlite + vermiculite + pine bark + moss + husk from sunflower seeds.
I transplant as needed. I take the pot not quite wide, but not deep, 2-3 cm larger than the previous one.
Anthurium lighting
Anthurium quickly adapts to the conditions of the room, does not like direct sunlight at noon, but requires a lot of light, and the morning or evening sun is welcome.
In the literature I met such information: Anthuriums are shade-tolerant and can be content with rather meager light conditions.
Growing Anthuriums for more than one year, I can say that they can be content with poor light conditions, but then you will get an unattractive appearance and will not see flowers. The cuttings become very long, stick out in all directions like sticks, the leaves are small, and the flowers are even smaller, if at all.
For Anthurium, any direction of windows is suitable except for the southern one, of course, you need to take into account the height of the floor, but if you really want to grow Anthurium on the southern window, then you need to put it next to the window about 30-50 cm or on the window sill, but then the window needs to be darkened.
If you have the opposite, northern windows, or there is shading from the street, then in winter the anthurium will be dark, and when high temperature, this leads to plant degeneration, loss decorative look... Therefore, with such windows, from September to March, you need to turn on fluorescent lighting.
Watering
Watering during the period of active growth is moderate, but regular, with soft water, that is, as the top layer dries. I water and spray with boiled water, sometimes I arrange a shower.
There is an opinion that the soil should be constantly moist.
The most common mistake is waterlogging of the substrate; in the wet substrate of Anthurium, the roots quickly rot, which can lead to the death of plants. Stagnation of water in the sump is unacceptable; it must be drained immediately after watering. The golden rule: it is better to almost top up than overflow. Worst of all, from constant dampness in pots, mushroom mosquitoes (whose larvae gnaw at the roots) start up, pathogenic fungi and bacteria develop, various spots bloom on the plant.
Air humidity
Anthurium grows well and blooms at high humidity.
It is recommended to spray regularly (morning and evening) with water, because anthuriums need very humid air... You can increase the humidity of the air by spreading a layer of sphagnum moss around the leaves, but make sure that it does not create increased dampness of the earth and does not accumulate moisture on the stems. When spraying, use only soft boiled water, otherwise white streaks will remain on the leaves.
Anthurium fertilizer
From March to August, feed the plant with fertilizers once every two weeks. At the beginning of the growing season, anthurium is fertilized with a weak solution for ornamental-deciduous plants, after 2-3 dressings, fertilizers can be applied for decorative-flowering plants (fertika-lux, agriculture, uniflor-bud, pokon for flowering, etc.). Calculate the fertilizer dose 2 times less than the recommended one.
Reproduction of anthurium
Division of adult specimens or separation of rooted lateral shoots. To do this, the bush taken out of the pot must be carefully cut with a knife, cut off the necessary part with a piece of rhizome. Try not to disturb the bulk of the roots. Sprinkle all large sections with crushed coal or sulfur (sold in pet supplies) to close the gate for infection. Water the planted parts carefully during the first week. Avoid splitting and replanting on the hottest summer days.
Maybe seed reproduction... After cross-pollination (for this you must have two at the same time flowering plants), the seeds ripen within 8 weeks, after which they must be planted immediately, as they quickly lose their germination. The soil is light from a mixture of vermiculite and peat in equal parts. Vermiculite can be replaced with coarse sand. The soil can be covered thin layer sphagnum moss, and sow seeds into it. Moisten the top evenly from a spray bottle, cover with foil. Ventilate regularly to prevent mold from forming on the ground.
Anthurium pests and diseases
Usually, anthuriums are a little sick and are not very susceptible to pests. Most often these are scale insects and mealybugs. Sometimes ticks. Particularly dangerous are scale insects, which multiply very quickly and require serious efforts to destroy them. Ticks are fought with agents called acaricides (apollo, vermitic, nissoran, etc.). With shields, mealybugs and other pests, including soil ones, the easiest way to deal with systemic insecticides is aktara or confidor. Visible pests must be removed with a cotton swab or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Plants also suffer greatly from excessive watering and poor drainage, leading to decay of the root system. Root and stem rot caused by waterlogging of the substrate and low temperatures, as well as anthracnose. With anthracnose, leaf blades begin to dry out from the edges, and with severe damage, the plants are depleted and die off. The fight against this disease requires perseverance, and it must be started when the first signs appear. In large collections, it is necessary to carry out prophylactic treatments with fungicides, preferably systemic (foundationol).
Frequently asked questions about anthurium
1. What should you pay attention to when growing Anthurium?
Answer: Anthuriums are kept at a temperature of at least 18 degrees in conditions high humidity air (daily spraying is required). Photophilous. Soil temperature cannot be lower than temperature environment, therefore, it is better to use not ceramic, but plastic pots. Anthurium consumes a lot of water, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Anthurium Andre tolerates the sun better than Scherzer's anthurium, but it is better to darken it, it feels normal in bright light, but without the sun too, and better in a humid atmosphere. When spraying, try not to get large drops of water on the flowers - ugly spots will remain.
Such spots appear from systematic overflow, and are very often a sign of infection.
2. How to divide anthurium?
Answer: Very carefully! When dividing, the roots must be carefully untangled or cut with a knife. You can shed some epin or root.
3. The plant requires transplanting, but transplanting is recommended only in spring, what should I do?
Answer: It is best to do now the transfer to the pot a little more than before, and carefully change the topsoil, without exposing the roots, if possible. Good drainage and very loose soil are required. If there are aerial roots, lightly dust them with the same soil or cover with damp moss.
4. On Anthurium appeared yellow spots on the leaves. Why does this happen, from hard water or from overfeeding with fertilizers?
Answer: If the spots are large - evenly over the entire surface of the leaf, and the leaves themselves are either less than the previous ones, or more - then these are clear signs of unbalanced fertilization. If the specks are small and visible in the light, then perhaps this is a spider mite.
5. Can blooming anthurium be transplanted?
Answer: Blooming flowers you can not replant, but only transfer, i.e. without damaging the earthy coma, especially if the pot is small. And put the flower in a bright place.
6. How deep the roots can be buried during transplantation
Answer: They can and should be buried during transplantation, well, of course, you should not be zealous. The roots must definitely be covered. If you can't deepen it, cover them with at least sphagnum. In anthuriums, even aerial roots are recommended to be wrapped in moist sphagnum ...
7. Anthurium does not bloom!
Answer: The way to success with anthuriums is this: in order for it to bloom, it must be at a temperature of at least 18 degrees around the clock, it does not like direct sunlight, it needs diffused light. Watering is moderate, he really does not like drafts. His pot must be slightly larger than his root system, otherwise it will not bloom! And, of course, light fertilization once a week.
For many years now I have not been threatened with an autumn depression!
Indeed, with wonderful indoor flowers it is always present in the house. spring mood - regardless of the season and weather ...
Two years ago, my family improved their living conditions. Therefore, our ability to breed domestic plants has increased.
I have developed a tradition: before the onset of autumn, I have some new houseplant. So last year, before leaving the summer vacation, I bought my first anthurium.
This specimen had bright bracts of the most common color - red. But for me the anthurium was so unusual!
Blooming anthuriums
The name "anthurium" in translation into Russian means "flower tail". It was given to the plant for the original structure of the flower cob and bracts. Therefore, anthurium is often called “flower and tail”.
Dreaming of prolonging the beautiful flowering of my new "Tropican", I had the patience and began to collect information about the types of anthurium and how to keep them.
Thanks to the knowledge gained and the careful care of the anthurium, everything worked out for me.
I managed not only to painlessly introduce the purchased anthurium into the circle of my old-time plants, but also to ensure its continuous flowering, which has been going on for over a year!
Inspired by my successes with the first anthurium, this summer (2011) I bought a second anthurium - a wonderful “flamingo flower” with pale pink bracts.
This pink rookie also pleases me with continuous flowering :)
It is interesting that when the flowers of my anthuriums fade,. In a red specimen, the veil turns green, and in a pink anthurium it becomes almost white ...
Anthuriums in natural conditions develop under the shade of tropical thickets. Therefore, many gardeners rightly attribute anthurium to, placing it in the back of the room.
However, for good growth and continuous flowering it is important to give your pet an opportunity in abundance.
I put my flowering newcomers in the southeast window. Thanks to this location, anthuriums can bask in the gentle rays of the morning sun. And the plants also have enough light during the day.
Planting anthurium
I do not cover the aerial roots of my anthuriums with moss, as flower growers often do. But I regularly take time to spray them. Sometimes my son will also work for me with a spray gun for good indoor plantswhen he is in the mood to tinker with flowers.
Anthurium fertilizer
Many amateur flower growers do not use fertilizers when growing anthuriums. This is acceptable if the Tropican grows in a nutrient medium and receives sufficient light and moisture.
The choice is yours, but golden Rule with watering it also acts here: "it is better not to fertilize than to feed."
When using a purchased fertilizer, it should be remembered that half the dose indicated on the package is quite enough for fertilizing anthurium.
I feed developing anthuriums in the warm season twice a month. I use fertilizer for flowering plants.
In the cold period, I feed my anthuriums once a month, using humate (in a half dose of the concentration indicated in the instructions).
Anthurium pests
Anthurium is susceptible to attack by scale insects, aphids, etc.
At the first detection of insect pests and before buying special preparations, you can use garlic and laundry soap.
Cut slices of peeled garlic should be placed on the ground, and anthurium leaves should be treated with a concentrated soap solution.
Professionally, the preparation "Aktara" (1 g per 10 liters of water) will help anthurium from the scabbard, and "Iskra" (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) against the tick.
In case of anthurium disease with gray rot and anthracnose (leaf spot), it is recommended to treat the plant with the "Hom" preparation (40 g per 10 l of water).
This is how my handsome anthuriums grow in care and attention, delighting me with a long continuous flowering!
How to propagate anthurium by seeds?
I read that anthuriums can reproduce by seeds.
However, no matter how I waited, I never saw the seeds of the faded flowers of my anthuriums. The flowers simply dry up over time, but they did not have seeds ...
Maybe someone from the florists will tell you: how to get seeds from plants and grow anthurium seedlings?
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It is rare to find an amateur florist in whose apartment there is no anthurium. It can be safely attributed to the most popular indoor plants, despite its tenderness, whimsical care and some capriciousness. But with the reproduction of anthurium, problems almost never arise - there are several different ways... But each of them has its own nuances that need to be studied before starting the procedure.
What does anthurium look like
Anthurium (Anthurium) - one of the most popular tropical plantsgrown at home. The genus belongs to the Araceae family and has more than five hundred "natural" representatives, excluding hybrids bred by breeding. Most anthuriums can be found in the forests of the South and Central Americaas well as on the islands of the Caribbean.
Anthurium owes its enduring success among indoor plant lovers to its abundant, bright and almost continuous flowering. Experienced flower growers believe that only some types of orchids can be compared with this "living bouquet" in spectacularity.
The leaves of anthurium are dense, leathery, rich green. They seem to be carved from shiny satin or velvet with a fine pile. The size of the leaf plate varies from 5-10 cm to 90-100 cm. The shape resembles a heart (botanists call it broad-lanceolate), which seems to be laid on the petiole almost flat. Leaves can be not only monochromatic - there are varieties with white or silver veins, or with "ornaments".
Anthurium inflorescence is a large ear. It is to its shape that the plant owes its name. Translated from Greek, anthos is a flower, oura is a tail. However, there are species with a more interesting inflorescence shape - it can bend and even curl into a spiral. When the anthurium fades, the ear becomes covered with fruit similar to berries.
The inflorescence is "wrapped" in one petal-blanket, which seems to be sculpted from wax. Veins are clearly visible on it. Often the petal is quite bright, red, orange or pink, shiny, that's why anthurium is called "flamingo flower". Although there are many varieties with a rather nondescript, greenish or creamy bedspread. The petal hardly hides the inflorescence, resembling a wing.
Anthurium is a rather demanding plant. Many species are physically impossible to grow at home - only specially equipped greenhouses or greenhouses are suitable for this. Nevertheless, many growers are not ready to give up a capricious pet, because even if there are problems with an old plant, it is relatively easy to get a new one - nature has provided several methods of reproduction.
Video: appearance and other characteristic features of anthurium
What you need to know when starting to propagate a plant at home
There are several ways to reproduce anthurium, so the florist can choose the one that he likes best, focusing on the condition and appearance of the flower.
In any case, it should be remembered that anthurium, like all Aroids, is poisonous. The sap of the plant, getting on the skin or mucous membranes, causes unpleasant symptoms characteristic of allergies (itching, rash, redness, irritation, and so on). The intensity of their manifestation depends on the sensitivity of the skin. If the juice is accidentally swallowed, a serious stomach upset is likely. Therefore, when starting to reproduce anthurium, be sure to wear gloves, and at the end of the work, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.
The soil in which the flower is sold in the store is absolutely not suitable for it. The substrate, however, intended specifically for epiphytes or Aroids, is quite problematic to find. You can use soil for orchids, Saintpaulias (violets) or Bromeliads - it meets the requirements for acidity (pH 4.5-6.5), but it is still not ideal.
Therefore, it is best to mix the soil yourself. Before planting, it must be disinfected by exposing it to cold, heat or steam.
- Fertile turf, leaf humus, perlite or vermiculite (1: 3: 1). Small pieces of birch charcoal are added to the finished mixture (about 5% of the total volume).
- Soil for azaleas or rhododendrons, peat chips, pieces of pine bark (about 1 cm), expanded clay (up to 3 mm in diameter), crushed sphagnum moss. The substrate turns out to be light and loose, but at the same time it retains moisture well.
The missing components can be easily found alternative. Perlite and vermiculite will replace large river sand, sphagnum - common swamp moss or, birch charcoal - crushed chalk or crushed pumice.
The grown anthuriums are transplanted into pots, shaped like bowls - shallow and wide. Root system the plant is superficial. A thick layer is required drainage material... It should fill at least a quarter of the pot's volume.
The established young anthuriums are watered abundantly before transplanting into a container and soil suitable for adult plants. Then the soil is not moistened for 3-4 days. The first month with watering, you need to be especially careful - there is a high risk of developing rot.
Video: general information about the reproduction of anthurium
Step-by-step instructions with photos
In principle, there is nothing difficult in the reproduction of anthurium. All parts of the plant are suitable for this. It is important to study the technology in advance and understand whether it is right for your flower.
How to propagate by dividing a large bush
The method is suitable only for adult plants (3-4 years and older). Caring for the anthuriums obtained in this way has no specific features. Is that during the first two to three months experienced florists it is recommended to spray the plant with any biostimulant weekly - Epin, Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin, potassium humate. Ordinary succinic acid will do.
The division of the anthurium bush allows not only to get new specimens, but also to significantly rejuvenate the plant. The procedure is carried out at the beginning or in the middle of spring, simultaneously with the next transplant.
- Water the plant abundantly 20-30 minutes before the procedure.
- Remove the anthurium from the pot by tapping lightly on the sides. Shake the substrate off the roots.
- Untangle the roots carefully. They are cut with a knife only as a last resort, because they are very fragile, easily break. "Wounds" are immediately sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated carbon, cinnamon. Each part of the plant must have a growth point, well-developed roots and at least one leaf.
- Get rid of all rotten, dead, dried out roots. Process the sections as described above. Let the plant dry for about an hour outdoors.
- Plant the pieces into new pots using a medium suitable for mature plants. In general, this procedure is similar to a transplant. In the process, watch the level of the soil - the roots should be buried in the same way as in the old pot or a little more. They are extremely sensitive. If left outdoors, the plant will quickly become sick and die.
- Tie the anthurium to the support if necessary. It is necessary to estimate in advance whether it will be needed, because it is placed in a pot before the flower is placed there, and not stuck into the ground after the transplant is completed.
Rooting of side shoots
Lateral shoots are "offspring" of anthurium. This method of reproduction is provided by nature itself. Separate "children" during the transplant. If you try to remove them from the pot without touching the mother plant, the roots will be severely damaged. An adult anthurium may even die.
If a transplant is not foreseen in the near future, and the "offspring" is desperately needed, remove the plant from the pot, trying to destroy the earthen lump as little as possible. Manually carefully separate the lateral shoot (always with roots), return the "donor" to its place and add fresh substrate, closing the resulting void.
- Fill small pots with clean sphagnum moss or a mixture of humus and perlite, vermiculite (1: 1). Moisten the substrate well.
- Plant the offspring in the ground. Cover the containers glass domescut off plastic bottles, place in clear plastic bags, tied tightly.
- For rooting, anthuriums need a constant temperature of 28–32 ° C and a humidity of 85% and above. Choose the brightest place in the room, but protect the "offspring" from direct sunlight.
- Remove the cover for 10-15 minutes daily, airing the plantings, and spray the soil with a weak solution of a biostimulant (2-3 ml per liter of water).
- Remove the greenhouse after about a month. Place the pot in a permanent place.
Growing "male happiness" from the root
The method is very similar to the previous version, but it takes more time. The roots (healthy and strong) are manually removed from the stem during transplanting. They are germinated in clean sand, perlite, vermiculite, constantly maintaining the substrate in a slightly moist state.
The shelter is removed no earlier than 1-2 true leaves appear. The process usually takes 1.5–2 months. After another month, you can enter the soil for adult anthuriums.
Cuttings
The easiest way to get a new anthurium. At home, it is used most often. Planting material from a plant can be taken at any convenient time, but the best period for this is late spring or early summer. To do this, choose stems 12 cm or more long, on which there are at least two leaves.
Anthurium stalk is a leaf cut along with a part of the stem. Only the bottom 5–8 cm is needed, so the sheet plate itself can be removed.
- Sprinkle the "wound" on the mother plant with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, sifted wood ash, or grease with green stuff, iodine.
- Dry the cuttings outdoors for 10-15 minutes.
- Plant them in small cups filled with a mixture of sand and peat chips (1: 1) or sphagnum moss. Preliminary, drainage holes must be made in them. The substrate must be dry. An alternative is to germinate the roots in water. It should be soft, warmed to room temperature. The fluid must be changed daily. To speed up the process, the water is replaced with a weak solution of a rooting stimulator, and the base of the cutting is sprinkled with any powdery preparation of a similar action before being placed in the substrate. Do not deepen planting material too much - only the bottom 4–5 cm should be in the substrate or in the water.
- Cover the containers with cuttings plastic bags, glass caps, provide the temperature at the level of 25-28 ° C, bright diffused light and humidity of about 80%. Moisten the substrate every 2-3 days without letting it dry out, even the top layer.
- Root buds will appear in a week. When they reach a length of 2–3 cm (after about 30–40 days), anthuriums can be transplanted into soil suitable for mature plants. At first, a pot with a diameter of no more than 10 cm is enough.
Germinating seeds
The method is not very popular with amateur flower growers. Firstly, the procedure is quite time consuming, and success is not guaranteed. Secondly, it is not a fact that the plant obtained from seeds will retain the varietal characteristics of the “parent”. Especially if it is an artificially bred hybrid. But on the other hand, this is a unique opportunity to play the role of a breeder and become the happy owner of an anthurium that no one else has. The flowering of such a specimen will have to wait at least three years.
The seeds can be purchased from specialized stores without any problems. Be sure to pay attention to the expiration date. Six months after harvesting, there is no longer any point in planting them, germination is very short-lived. It is best to use seeds harvested at least three months before purchase.
Planting material can also be obtained at home. This requires at least two anthuriums. When one of them blooms, brush over the "cob" with a soft brush, brushing off the pollen on a sheet of paper. Put the collected in the refrigerator.
Wait until the ear appears on the second plant and cross-pollinate (at the very beginning of flowering). Best time for this - a sunny morning. Use a cotton pad or fingers to spread the pollen, moving first from the bottom up, then in the opposite direction. Repeat the procedure every day. Four or five times should be enough. In principle, you can try to pollinate anthurium with your own pollen, but the probability of success is low.
After about a month, the ear will begin to swell. It will take 9-12 months for the fruit to fully ripen. When the coverlet turns green, the inflorescence is greenish-brown, and the darkest berries look like they are about to fall out of it, remove the fruits. Delete top shell, dry the seeds in the open air for 2-3 days, no more. Sow them as soon as possible.
Video: ripening anthurium seeds
- Fill a shallow bowl with peat chips, moisten and level the substrate. Let the moisture soak in.
- Soak the planting material in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate for 10-15 minutes. Then spread on a napkin or soft cloth to absorb excess moisture.
- Spread the seeds evenly over the surface, sprinkle a little with soil (layer no more than 2-3 mm thick). Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap.
- Provide bottom heating, temperature around 25 ° C, bright diffused light. Open the "greenhouse" daily for 5-7 minutes to ventilate, as it dries, spray the soil from a fine spray gun.
- The first shoots appear in a week, mass shoots - in 12-15 days. When the first true leaf forms (about a month later), remove the greenhouse.
- Plant the plants with three leaves in separate cups 7–10 cm in diameter, filled with a mixture of peat, leafy earth and powdered charcoal (in equal proportions). Drainage is required, filling at least a third of the volume of the pot.
- Take care of young anthuriums as usual. Only when feeding for six months, reduce the fertilizer concentration in the solution by half compared with the manufacturer's recommended one.
Video: anthurium from seeds
Leaf propagation
The method is not suitable for all plant species. Thus, the anthuriums of Scherzer, Andre, leathery and other varieties with thick prominent veins on the leaves multiply.
- Cut the leaf together with a part of the petiole about 3 cm long.
- Roll it up with a tube or funnel, tighten with a thin elastic band or thread. Do not over tighten.
- Fill small deep pots with a mixture of peat, sand, perlite, vermiculite (1: 1). Dip the leaves 2/3 into the ground. An alternative is germination in boiled water at room temperature. It does not need to be defended, but it will have to be changed daily.
- Water the plantings and cover the containers with glass caps or plastic bags.
- Place the pots in a light partial shade, maintain a temperature of 25–27 ° C. No bottom heating required. Air the plantings daily, spray the substrate with a weak solution of a root stimulator.
- After 20-25 days, a sprout should appear from the middle of the funnel. Wait another month and transplant the young anthurium into the soil for mature plants.
Potential problems and solutions
Anthurium is a rather delicate and capricious plant. The main danger that threatens him during reproduction is rot. Most often, its development is provoked by the florist himself, often and abundantly watering a young flower. The process goes even faster if high humidity the soil is combined with a low room temperature.
Inspect young plants regularly. If you notice dark brown spots at the base of the stems and on the petioles of leaves, small black dots on the leaf plate, immediately proceed to "resuscitation". Anthurium can be saved only at an early stage of the development of the disease. If the soil becomes moldy, an unpleasant putrid smell comes from it, most likely it's too late, the plant can only be thrown away.
When alarming symptoms appear:
- Cut off all parts of the plant affected by the fungus to healthy tissue. Sprinkle "wounds" with crushed chalk, activated charcoal, cinnamon or treat with iodine, greenery.
- Transplant the plant by completely changing the substrate and sterilizing the pot. Add granules of Glyocladin, Trichodermin to the soil.
- For 2-3 months, water the anthurium with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Previkur, Baikal-EM instead of ordinary water.
If the leaves of a young plant go numb, lose their tone, it most likely suffers from a moisture deficit or low temperature. Its sharp fluctuations are also dangerous. To solve the problem, it is usually enough to adjust the watering, spray the plant daily and move the pot to a warmer place.
When the transplanted part of the anthurium looks good, but is in no hurry to start growing, replace the water for irrigation with a solution of any biostimulant, preparing it according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
In principle, problems with anthurium can be avoided if you study in advance the rules for caring for the plant and the "requirements" for the indoor microclimate. This applies to both adult flowers and young specimens.
- The optimum temperature after the "greenhouse" is removed is 20-24 ° C. The minimum indicator at which anthurium can still survive is 15-18 ° C.
- In spring and summer, the plant is watered often and abundantly, sprayed several times a day. In this case, the stagnation of water in the pot should not be allowed. When transplanting, provide a drainage layer of sufficient thickness, drain excess moisture from the pallet half an hour after the procedure.
- Anthurium needs very high air humidity (85–90%). In the heat, raise it with everyone available ways... Be sure to cover the soil in the pot with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber... The root system of the plant is superficial, in young specimens the roots are very thin and delicate, they dry out easily.
- Optimum illumination is bright, diffused light. But the plant must be protected from direct sunlight.
- A lack of fertilizers for anthurium is preferable to an excess of them. And the flower does not tolerate an increased concentration of mineral salts in the soil at all. Therefore, it is better to use natural organic matter (humus, infusions of bird droppings or cow dung diluted with water). Leave complex mineral liquid fertilizers for foliar dressing.
New anthurium can be obtained from almost any part of the mother plant. This is a definite plus of a capricious and demanding flower. The specific breeding method is chosen depending on the variety, appearance and the state of the “parent” anthurium. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, which are taken into account when determining their course of action.
Anthurium is a genus belonging to the Aroid family. Epiphytes are mainly representatives of the genus. The homeland of plants is the warm regions of the Northern and South America, but also some species of this flower are grown by our gardeners with home care.
General information
The name of the flower literally translates as a flower-tail, because the flower is only the middle in the form of an ear, and the colorful petal around is actually a sheet-cover. The people for anthurium are called " male happiness", As this plant is usually given to men. The color of flowers and types of leaves differs depending on the type and variety of the flower.
There are many types of anthurium cultivated, among which there are indoor and garden ones. it poisonous plantso do not let children and animals come in contact with it, and also eat the fruit.
Types and varieties of anthurium
- comes from the mountainous regions of Colombia and Ecuador. It has a short shoot, aerial roots. The leaves are large, glossy, placed on petioles. The flower is yellow or colored in its shades, it can be cream. The bedspread is predominantly white, but it is colored with shades of red or pink. A lot of hybrids and varieties have been bred from this species.
- has a low stem and long, narrow leaves. The top of the leaf is green and the bottom is decorated with dot patterns brown color... The peduncle is high up to 30 cm, the flower itself is cream, the leaf around it is bicolor - the middle is yellow with green tintand the edges are purple.
- it resembles crystal Anthurium. The difference between the two lies in the petiole. In the majestic, it is tetrahedral, and in the crystal it is rounded. Also veins in the majestic anthurium are olive-colored, not silver.
- comes from the tropics. It has large leaves with a speckled bottom, placed on long petioles. Expels a peduncle 50 cm. The flower is also long, covered at the bottom with a veil of green color.
- Has a massive rhizome and a long stem that reaches a meter in length. Leathery leaves differ in shape in different varieties... The flower cob is small and the bracts are greenish in color.
- this is an anthurium liana. Has dissected lanceolate leaves with wavy edges.
This epiphyte has a caudex that can be located in the substrate. The leaves are very large, petioled, with silvery veins. The peduncle is up to 50 cm, and the flower is about 20 cm. The cover around the flower is light green with a purple tint, generally does not exceed 10 cm.
- this epiphyte with leathery oval or lanceolate leaf plates that are located on the petioles. Spiral flower, decorated with bracts bright color middle between red and orange.
It is an unusual variety that attracts with its dark floral veil, which is sometimes almost black.
Cavalli variety also very unusual, as the cob and bracts around it are delicate purple in color.
On jolie variety pay attention because it has an unusual sheet-bedspread shape.
Among other varieties, one can distinguish fiorino , adrianum , dakota , baby boomer but there are many others.
If you purchased, then this is just a mixture of different varieties of one of the types or several types of anthurium.
Anthurium home care
Caring for anthurium at home is not particularly problematic, it just requires some knowledge. The plant needs bright, diffused lighting, it is impossible for direct sunlight to fall on the leaves of the flower.
Anthurium loves warmth and therefore the temperature in the spring-summer period should be kept around 25 ° C. Falling below 20 ° C is harmful to the flower and leads to disease.
From early autumn to spring, the temperature is kept around 17 ° C. For anthurium Scherber, about 13 ° C for two months, and then rise to 17 ° C. This flower is very sensitive to drafts and temperature changes, therefore, it must be lowered and raised gradually so as not to harm the anthurium.
How to water anthurium
During the growing season, the plant requires good watering, which must be carried out when half of the soil in the container with the flower dries up. The liquid for irrigation needs a settled, lukewarm, preferably rainwater. It is better to water it directly on the ground, so that water does not fall on the plant.
Although the flower loves moisture, but only in moderation. It is better to water a little less than to throw the rotten anthurium in the trash. In winter, one watering every seven days is enough.
Anthurium needs high humidity (about 90%). In spring and summer, spray with soft water, and place the flower pot in a container with raw expanded clay. When spraying, the drops should not be allowed to touch the flowers, but only fall on the leaves.
How to fertilize anthurium
Anthurium must be fertilized. When performing this operation, remember that the concentration of the fertilizer should be half as low as indicated on the package. You need to fertilize the flower in the spring and summer period twice for a month and a half. Organic fertilizers can also be used.
Anthurium does not like an excess of fertilizers, so if in doubt, it is better to use a smaller dose. If your plant is sick or you find pests, then feeding should be stopped until it recovers.
To ensure high-quality budding and flowering, you need a cool temperature in winter. If you give the plant fertilizer and all necessary care, then it will bloom from May to autumn. Even exist hybrid varietiesthat bloom almost all year round. Sluggish inflorescences need to be cut off so young flowers will look better. Leaves are usually not trimmed.
To get seeds, you need to pollinate the plant yourself by moving the pollen with a brush between flowers.
Anthurium transplant at home
If you buy a plant in a store, it will need to be transplanted into a larger pot soon, since the containers in which the flowers are sold are usually not comfortable for them.
Transfer home anthurium performed in spring or summer. It is carried out if the plant has "grown" from an old pot or if the soil has changed its composition. Young anthuriums need to be replanted every year, and older plants once every couple or three years.
The pot for anthurium must be taken from plastic or glass. If you want a clay container, then it must be covered with glaze inside, otherwise the roots will grow into the pot. It is better not to take too deep and wide containers, as the water in them will stagnate more often.
As for the substrate, you can purchase soil for orchids, or you can make the soil for the anthurium yourself. It will include peat, leaf and coniferous soil, as well as sand (1: 1: 1: 0.5), in addition to this, you need to add charcoal and bark of coniferous trees.
It is necessary to carefully remove anthurium from an old container, because it has very delicate roots. The rhizome must be cleared of soil and rotten parts removed. Then it is treated with phytolavine and placed in another pot, with drainage already placed.
The new soil is filled up so that it settles well, and at the end it is crushed. At the end, the substrate should not reach the top of the pot by a couple of centimeters. Unlike many other plants, anthurium can be transplanted during flowering, as it is not too sensitive to this process.
How to split anthurium during transplant
When transplanting, you can reproduce the anthurium by dividing the bush. You cannot divide young flowers. The first time this operation can be carried out only at the 4th year of the plant's life.
Special skills are not required here at all. You just need to divide the bush so that there are leaves and buds on each division. Then they just sit down and watered.
Post-transplant care is no different from normal home care. The only remark is the cessation of feeding 15 days after transplanting.
Anthurium from seeds at home
After artificial pollination of flowers, seeds will appear and as soon as they ripen, and this takes up to 10 months, you need to plant. It makes no sense to store seeds, as they quickly lose their germination.
The seed is taken out of the berry, washed and kept for several minutes in light solution potassium permanganate. Sowing requires light, loose soil with a small ball of perlite at the top. The seeds must be placed on the ground and easily pressed into it.
Next, this container is covered with glass and the temperature is kept near it at about 22 ° C. After about 15 days, seedlings will appear, which, with the formation of two or three true leaves, dive into the soil for adult anthuriums with the addition of mullein. As the seedlings develop, they will need to be dived into large pots.
Plants from seeds will begin to bloom well only in the fifth year. Until then, flowering will be weak. Please note that varietal qualities are lost when propagated by seeds. Due to the latter circumstance, anthurium is usually propagated by cuttings.
Anthurium reproduction by side shoots
Lateral suckers are separated from the plant and planted in another container with sand or perlite. They are covered with glass and periodically ventilated and humidified.
The temperature for root formation should be approximately 23 ° C. Then the seedlings are transplanted into the soil for adult plants.
Diseases and pests of anthurium
- If your anthurium does not bloom, but produces only leaves, then diseases and pests can be the reason for this, but most often it contributes improper care behind a flower, excessive fertilization.
- Among the pests that can infect the plant are aphids, scale insects and spider mites.
- Rot is dangerous for the plant, which also forms with improper care.
- If you notice that the tips of the leaves are drying out on your plant, then this is most likely anthracnose.
- Excessive amounts of calcium lead to staining of the leaves of the anthurium.
- The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow as the roots rot. In this case, you need to urgently clean the roots and carry out a transplant.
- With excessive watering, spots appear on the leaves of anthurium.
- And the leaves of the plant curl if it is placed in a draft or suffers from direct sunlight. Also, a similar reaction is observed to low humidity and lack of light.
- The reason for the fact that the leaves become smaller is the lack of lighting or feeding.
- But small flowers usually appear due to the fact that you do not remove old and wilted ones, which continue to take life-giving forces.
- If your anthurium leaves turn green, then most likely you do not need to sound the alarm. In most cases, this simply ends the flowering period. In this case, trim off the green parts of the bracts. But if greening continues anyway, then it may be necessary to transplant, because such a reaction in anthurium happens to the depletion of the soil.