Warning black spot and the fight against it are very difficult problems that have recently been actively discussed on the site (). I tried to systematize the results of the discussion and present them more or less consistently.
1. Black spot is one of the most common and stubborn diseases of roses.
2. There are no varieties completely immune to CP. There are varieties that are more susceptible to this disease and varieties that are less susceptible.
3. Each particular plant may become somewhat less susceptible to emergency situations if healthy seedlings are planted and strong, well-groomed bushes are grown.
4.However, since the species immunity of roses to PE is low, the main task is to reduce the number of spores in the rose garden.
5. To achieve 3 and 4, it is necessary to carry out emergency prevention in these two directions.
PREVENTION includes the following activities:
a) selection of healthy and strong seedlings;
b) treatment of seedlings before planting with biofungicide and bactericide Fitosporin-M (paste);
c) soil enrichment beneficial bacteria (application of compost, rotted manure, use of biofungicides [Alirin-B, Gamair, Glyokladin, Fitosporin-M] for watering the land, mulching, especially with cut grass);
d) the introduction of a sufficient amount of potash fertilizers and microelements into the soil, including (optional) the use of ash; liming of acidic soils;
e) compliance correct distances between bushes when planting;
f) timely and correct spring pruning (sanitary and formative), aimed at removing weak and diseased shoots and thinning the bush;
g) early spring spraying with copper or iron vitriol (it is better to alternate by years) immediately after the opening of the bushes, before budding (you can not do this if you choose a more time-consuming biosystem of care, but you can try to combine it with biological methods);
h) spring preventive spraying at a temperature not lower than 10 degrees either with biological products (with an interval of 7-14 days), or with chemical agents (once) - whoever likes what;
biological products: Gumistar, Fitosporin-M, Baikal-EM, fermented herb with the addition of Baikal, or Shining, or Revival, infusion onion peel, ash infusion; silicon-containing fertilizers can be added to biological products, which enhance cell turgor and increase their strength;
chemical agents: Strobi, Bayleton, Topaz, Ridomil-gold, etc .;
i) top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers in the first half of summer (ammonium nitrate, mullein, Bucephalus, etc.);
j) feeding potash fertilizers late May-early June;
k) obligatory phosphorus-potassium dressing in the second half of summer;
l) spraying throughout the summer with stimulants and immune agents (HB-101, Zircon, Vermicofe, infusion of nettle and dandelion roots, etc.); it should be borne in mind that some stimulants are growth stimulants of the aerial part (Krezacin, for example), and they can be used only in the first half of summer;
m) the correct choice of plants adjacent to roses (tagetes, lavender, catnip, sage); this choice should take into account the allelopathic properties of plants;
o) it is possible that the abandonment of monocultural flower gardens (rose gardens), since during monoculture, the weakening of plants and their protective properties;
o) mandatory harvesting of fallen leaves and burning them throughout the season;
p) the constant maintenance of flower beds without weeds that oppress roses;
c) spraying roses before shelter with copper or iron sulfate (preferably iron) - for supporters of chemicals -
or spraying roses and watering the earth with Fitosporin-M (paste) at a temperature of at least 15 degrees - for supporters of biological products;
r) removing all foliage from the roses in front of the shelter.
Timeliness and consistency are important when carrying out all preventive measures. It is also advisable to conduct them throughout the garden, and not only on selected sites.
6.If the rose still got sick of an emergency (which is very likely), then you can
a) take this philosophically and limit yourself to collecting leaves fallen from it and careful care, relying on your own vitality plants;
b) to carry out the TREATMENT of emergency.
TREATMENT FOR BLACK SPOT:
a) be sure to remove all affected leaves from the bush - the faster this is done, the better;
b) collect and burn all fallen leaves, collect and burn them constantly;
c) for supporters of chemical agents - treat the diseased bush with copper-containing preparations once at the first signs of the disease, having first cut off all the leaves with spots, and spray with contact-system and systemic fungicides according to the instructions (as a rule, at least three times);
copper-containing preparations: Bordeaux liquid, Abiga-Peak, copper sulfate, OxyHOM, HOM;
contact system and systemic fungicides: Topaz, Ordan, Previkur, Profit Gold, Ridomil Gold MC, Skor, Fundazol, etc .;
for adherents of biological products - at the first signs of illness, treat with Fitosporin-M solution (paste) with the addition of Zircon or Siliplant, repeat the treatment 3-4 times every 5 days;
d) sprinkle the soil around the bush with Fitosporin-M several times between spraying;
e) before sheltering for the winter, remove all leaves and burn them;
f) treat with iron sulfate before the shelter (for supporters of chemicals);
g) in the spring, cut off the shoots shortly and proceed to prevention.
A small speck appeared on the rose. It is easy to miss it, overlook it, overlook it. And that's all, the decorativeness of the rose is lost. How to recognize the disease in time and how to help it?
Types of spotting
The causative agents of all types of spotting on roses are usually various kinds of pathogenic fungi. It is difficult for a beginner to distinguish one disease from another. In most cases, it is not necessary, since protective and therapeutic agents usually have wide range actions. But if it is not possible to purchase a universal drug, then it would be good to recognize the disease.
Black spot (marssonina)
The causative agent of this disease is the mushroom Marssonina rosae. Its appearance is evidenced by dark spots, which over time merge into one continuous black spot... It is slightly swollen, the shape is irregular. The causative fungus is very fond of the cool, rainy weather, which is characteristic of early June and the second half of summer. Then you can notice the first signs of this disease.
Downy mildew (downy mildew)
Brown spot
This disease is characterized by the appearance of brown, rounded spots with a diameter of up to 6 mm. There is a black border around the edges of the spots. Such spots are located on the upper side of the sheet. On the bottom, they are without a border, and their color is light brown. Favorable conditions for the development of this disease are heat and humidity. Its causative agent is the Coryneum confusum mushroom.
Septoria blight (septoria leaf blight)
The leaves of the rose, affected by this disease, are covered with small round spots of dark brown color on the upper side. Over time, they brighten, but the border remains brown. By autumn, the mushroom ripens, small black fruiting bodies - pycnidia appear in the center of the spot. At this stage, they overwinter on affected leaves and shoots. The disease is caused by spores of the fungus Septoria rosae.
Greyish spotted rose (cercospora)
With this disease, the leaf becomes covered with brown-purple small specks. Subsequently, the center of the spot turns gray, but the border remains brown. By the fall, black spherical pads appear in the center of the spots. The leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely. The causative agent of the disease is the mushroom Cercospora rosiola.
Phylostic spotting (leaf phyllostictosis)
It is too fungal disease... Its causative agent is Phyllosticta rosae. Signs: dark, brown spots with a purple border. Over time, the center of the spot brightens and becomes ashy. But the border is still wide, magenta... At the end, small black dots appear in the center.
Pestalocia
The leaves are attacked by the Pestalotia rosae fungus. First, brown spots appear along the edges of the leaf, which spread to the middle. There is a borderline yellow stripe between healthy and diseased tissue. Gray spore pads appear on the spots. On the shoots, depressed necrosis appear, and gray spore pads also appear on them. Over time, necrosis expands, ulcers appear on the shoots, and they dry out.
Ascochitous spot
This spot is characterized by light, yellowish-white spots with a thin brown border. On these spots, by autumn, the wintering stages of the fungus are formed in the form of convex brown fruiting bodies. They hibernate on fallen diseased leaves. The name of the mushroom is Ascochyta rosicola.
Purple spot
It is excited by the Sphaceloma rosarium fungus. With this disease, many round purple or black spots with a purple border appear on the upper side of the leaflet. The color of the border does not change over time, but the spot itself brightens, becomes ashy. On these upper spots, black fruiting bodies are formed - pycnidia. On the underside of the leaf spots brown gradually merge. The leaf dries up and falls off. If the disease is not treated, then the spots go to the stems.
Ramularia leaves
With this disease, the leaves dry, turn brown, brittle. It is called by spores of the fungus Ramularia banksiana. Spores form on the leaves in the form of small, white, crowded bundles.
Why is spotting dangerous?
But more than one plant will die. This fate can befall your entire rosary. Because the fungus multiplies with spores that move easily. They can be transferred from plant to plant by wind, rain, bees, various insects, even yourself. Therefore, when the first signs of the disease appear, urgent measures must be taken.
Treatment with folk remedies
Folk remedies are suitable only for the prevention of spotting. It will not be possible to cure the disease with their help, you will only waste your time in vain.
Carry out foliar dressing and preventive treatment in dry, calm weather in the evening. There is no need to store prepared solutions, use them immediately.
For the prevention of fungal diseases, flower growers usually use the following means.
Iodine
- iodine - 1 ml;
- water - 400 ml.
Depending on the area to be treated, increase the volume of the solution proportionally.
Iodine whey
- serum - 1 liter;
- iodine - 10 drops;
- water - 10 liters.
Preventive treatment should be carried out twice at weekly intervals.
Garlic and Onion Husk
- husk - 40 grams;
- water - 10 liters.
Pour the husk with water. Boil. Insist 8 hours. Water the bush liberally and shed soil around it. After the appearance of buds, carry out preventive treatment. Try not to get on the petals, otherwise they may stain.
Mullein
After removing the winter shelter, but even before budding, pour over the mullein infusion on the bush.
- mullein - 1 part;
- water - 9 parts.
Fill the mullein with water. Let the solution sit for 3 days. Strain the solution. Pour it over open bushes. It is both protection against diseases and plant nutrition. During the growing season from May to July, you can carry out preventive treatments two more times. Just use a less concentrated infusion.
Fungicide treatment
Most effective method treatment of fungal diseases is the use of a combined method. It implies the following:
First, the diseased plant is treated with some systemic fungicide. For example, a foundation. Prepare a solution in a ratio of 1 liter of water / 1 gram of substance. This solution should be evenly watered around the bush. Approximately 5 liters. It all depends on the size of the bush. On the same day, in the evening, spray the bush with the same solution. To obtain a homogeneous solution, you need to dilute the entire amount of the drug in a small amount of water. Then add the rest of the water.
After a week, the treatment is repeated. As a result, the pathogenic microflora will be almost completely destroyed.
After 18 days, the plant is treated with any biological fungicide. For example, phytosporin. Instructions for its use are indicated on the packaging. The need for its application is due to the fact that nature abhors a vacuum. In place of the destroyed pathogenic fungi, it is necessary to populate useful ones, otherwise the territory will again be occupied by harmful fungi, and two species of protozoa cannot exist in one place. The protective effect of the biofungicide is based on this principle.
All fungicides are toxic. Therefore, take precautions when handling them. Work in a closed suit, gloves, glasses. It is advisable to have a respirator.
Bordeaux liquid (copper sulfate)
- drug - 10 grams;
- lime - 10 grams;
- water - 10 liters.
Carry out two treatments at weekly intervals.
The drug is very toxic. It should be used in a severe stage of the disease. The affected leaves will no longer recover, but the newly regrown ones will be healthy.
Abiga Peak (copper oxychloride)
- drug - 40 grams;
- water - 10 liters.
Two sprays are carried out after two weeks.
Previkur Energy
- preparation - 1.5 ml;
- water - 1 liter.
To obtain a homogeneous solution, first stir the entire amount of the drug in a small amount of water, and then bring the volume to one liter. Prepare the solution one time. Increase the amount of water and the weight of the preparation proportionally. The plant is sprayed with this solution and the soil is shed at intervals of two weeks. Five treatments are possible.
Topaz
- drug - 4 ml;
- water - 5 l.
The processing interval is a week. Number - no more than three. The method for preparing the solution and processing the plant is the same as for Previkur Energy.
Speed
- drug - 2 ml;
- water - 10 liters.
The maximum number of treatments is three. The interval between them is a week.
Instead of this imported drug, you can use a domestic analogue under the trade name "Raek".
Profit Gold
- drug - 4 grams;
- water - 10 liters.
The maximum number of treatments is three. The interval between them is from eight to twelve days.
Ridomil Gold
This drug is effective against downy fungi. Two treatments are carried out after 10 days. Solution proportions:
- drug - 25 g;
- water 10 liters.
You cannot store the solution, you must use it immediately.
How to prevent spotting
A strong and healthy plant of the disease is more difficult to cope with, its resistance is higher. Therefore, the florist's task is to provide proper care behind the plant.
Provide the right conditions for landing
Plant flowers in a well-lit area. This will eliminate the high humidity that creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases.
It is not necessary to plant roses on the south side, as pests that are dangerous to it and spread fungal diseases like to live there.
Do not thicken the planting. It is better if the stems of one plant will not come into contact with another. This will make it difficult for the fungal spores to spread.
Do not plant roses next to rose hips. These plants suffer from the same diseases, so a diseased rosehip can also infect roses.
Companions of roses can be lemon catnip, oak sage, lavender. They repel pests that can spread spotting. Viburnum and lilac are considered bad neighbors for roses.
Inspect the plant regularly
The earlier treatment is started, the more successful it will be. Therefore, inspect the leaves and stems of roses regularly. Pay attention to the spots that appear, remove the affected shoots. Thin thickened bushes so that moisture evaporates better.
Remove weeds
Don't let the roses stand in the weeds. Moisture is retained on them and fungi live, which can easily migrate to your favorite flowers. In addition, weeds need nutrients... They take them from the soil by eating your roses.
Provide the right dose of fertilizer
The likelihood of the appearance of black spot increases with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. In such conditions, the fungus feels comfortable and multiplies at a high rate.
Feed nitrogen fertilizer only in spring. Also, the appearance of spotting on roses is facilitated by a lack of potassium, so carry out regular feeding with this fertilizer. You can use potassium salt, potassium sulfate, or wood ash... It is imperative to carry out potash dressings:
- in the end of May;
- at the beginning of June;
- at the end of July;
- in mid-August.
Treat roses with protective preparations
In the spring, after opening the roses, but before budding, treat the rose and the ground under it with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
In May, after the leaves appear, spray the bush with a systemic fungicide, such as Strobi, to prevent spotting. Three treatments are carried out exactly ten days each. The first is 10 g of substance / 10 l of water. The second is 5 g of substance / 10 l of water. The third is 2.5 g of substance / 10 l of water.
From June to September, spray the plant with growth stimulants (Epin, Zircon). These funds strengthen the plant's immunity.
Before covering the rose for the winter, treat it and the ground around it with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Prune in time
In the spring, immediately after the opening of the roses, it is necessary to carry out sanitary and formative pruning. Treat the cuts with crushed charcoal.
With regular inspection of the bushes, if necessary, remove excess or affected shoots.
In the fall, before covering the roses for the winter, cut off all the leaves, shorten the shoots depending on the variety.
Disinfect the instrument
The fungus, the causative agent of black spot, can easily be transferred from plant to plant with the pruning tool. Therefore, it must be disinfected. For this, alcohol-containing or chlorine-containing agents are used. You can dip in a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Some use kerosene.
In the fall, harvest dry foliage and dig up the soil
The causative agents of black spot overwinter on fallen leaves affected by this disease and in the soil. Therefore, they must be removed and the soil must be dug up. It is better not to compost the leaves, but to burn them. If this is not done, they will survive the winter safely and finish off the roses.
Choose varieties that are resistant to spotting initially
There are no absolutely invulnerable varieties, but breeders are working in this direction. They have developed varieties that are less susceptible to spotting disease. Stain-resistant roses with ADR mark. A variety testing system has been developed in Germany. According to her, the most hardy varieties this marking is assigned.
Healthy roses can be bought from German nurseries:
- Kordes;
- Noack (Noack);
- Tantau.
Floribunda and hybrid tea from the English nursery Fryer are also considered hardy.
What else do you need to know
Aside from spotting, there are many other diseases to be wary of. The most common:
Dear Colleagues! Yesterday I looked at this topic for the night, but I was too lazy to go to turn on the computer, I decided to postpone such an urgent issue until tomorrow. The fact is that not considering myself a specialist in roses (here everything is according to the principle "the more you do something specific, the more you realize that you don't know anything"), I am definitely an emergency specialist! Over the years, I have come to terms with this infection as with the fact that summer is ending and autumn is coming. In my humid climate and on the site of the former swampy Karelian forest, this infection will never get rid of, so this disease can be considered a type of lifelong myopia or bow-leggedness.
The history of the existence of my roses with an emergency (I even like the name given by my friend from our gardening - nonsense!) Is long, since 2007. and many tools have been tested. So I will be happy to share the results.
First, about manure in two aspects. On the lean podzols of the Russian Non-Black Earth Region, I do not consider it expedient to abandon the spring application of rotted manure, and I will not refuse this for any reason and advice. I contribute annually to trunk circle stale horse manure, and planting in general did all the years in almost whole manure (both cow and horse). But again, it is necessary to comply with the rate within reason, and all manure operations are in May or early June. I do not see any dependence on top dressing with horse compost (I will call it that way. Because I buy it in bags in the fall. And horse "apples" are diluted there up to a third with sawdust-shavings) and the abundance of manifestations of emergency. It always seemed to me that overfeeding with nitrogen affects diseases powdery mildew... not blotches. The same applies to the use of concentrate manure extracts - I have read advice for a long time about how to deal with mealy - they say the manure extract destroys the mycelium MR. We have never seen anything like this about an emergency. So I guess. that manure is best used for its intended purpose - for application in May to the topsoil. Yes. I forgot to say. that I have never used mineral nitrogen fertilizers. as I read it. that roses don't like him very much. especially urea. in extreme cases, it is better to do for some slow-witted ammonium nitrate - a table. spoon on a bush or a bucket of water.
Now about prevention and treatment methods. When there were few and very few roses - from 2 to 18 in 2005 and 2006. then I did not track their illnesses, and I hardly remember whether the first Austins were ill. But with the appearance of 80 roses from the spring of 2007. The state of emergency appeared in all its glory and riot, first of all, on two tantaus Blue Perfumes. from which all the roses in that rose garden were infected - the Aspirins, and the Delbarovskaya Border Blanche, and Schneevitchen. I knew little of the methods of treatment, and after reading about the need for potassium and ash as the main remedy, all these roses were doused with water and generously sprinkled with ash. Photos were somewhere like. I can search. But I can definitely say that this did not contain the epidemic! So this kind of folk remedies like ash or herbal infusions - it will all be like a "dead poultice". I made an infusion of nettle in 2010, the result is zero! Unless the stench from the nettle was fermenting - worse than fermented dandelions! As for the "witch jam" of horsetail, supposedly rich in silicon, I never tire of repeating as a geologist with extensive experience in geochemistry and such specificity as the forms of finding minerals, that extracting the organomineral form of silicon is a complete foolishness and just "monkey labor" to obtain such a macronutrient in concentrations anywhere from -12 degrees. I do not argue that any herbal infusions will serve as a good organic feeding, but no more!
In the spring of 2008. in Moscow Dubrava, I did not regret 750 rubles. and bought a factory can (200 g) Strobe. And since May 2008. I produce systemic preventive spraying according to the recipe given to me there. I wrote the script a couple of times here in different topics. I can repeat myself - strictly after 10 days with a decrease in concentration by half - 1st 10 g of powder per 10 liters of water, 2nd, respectively, 5 g per 10 liters, 3rd - 2.5 g per 10 liters. Now about the results of using Strobi (or other strobilurin preparations - the same German professional ZATO that appeared). In the description of the drug in the list of diseases, there is no black spot, there is MR, there is a grape disaster - mildew, there is moniliosis, the most dangerous for stone fruits. I draw your attention to this. that Strobe is not a specific panacea for emergency. I also cannot say that after my three-time treatments there were no manifestations of emergency at all. By August, there will still be some leaves somewhere on some roses, but diseases of even varieties that are weak to emergency situations before baldness or mass manifestation in a dozen varieties - this was not the case. In 2010, I didn’t have time to do this treatment, and even deliberately “missed” a year, feeling sorry for my “dead people” who did not leave well after a hard winter. As a result of even a very hot summer (I remind you that this is 2010 year of abnormal heat and relative dryness even in our region!) most of my red rose garden suffered from an emergency just to the state of bare stems. So another one empirical fact - the intensity of emergency does not depend on the weather! Strobi did not take to treat, and for the first time she used 3% Bordeaux liquid. Of course, the leaves with spots did not change "in the opposite direction", but the young ones that appeared by autumn looked quite decent when pruned. So in the case of an active and mass phase of emergency, I have identified for myself only Bordeaux! Directly Strobi for treatment was used once for one rose - climbing Amadeus, who for some reason got sick after all these prophylaxis. I spread it "by eye" into a hand sprayer (perhaps something was about 0.1%?) And left it for several applications. It worked, but I repeat - on one bush and in a small amount.
This I gave an overview of the use of chemicals. Now about bio-preparations. Over the past five years, more and more such drugs appear. And according to my observations, gardeners "like to lump everything together" - not only by producing "tank mixtures", but also by applying everything in a row, not really reading what drug is intended against. I must say that in the annotations it is written quite vaguely and "broadly". Of course, roses and other plants will not bend from such a treat, but the result will be blurry (it is difficult to understand what worked), and you still need to optimize your own costs and expenses. Of all the old preparations, I consider Zircon to be effective - cinnamic acids, which promote the vegetation of green mass, I first saw the effect of Zircon on strawberries, for roses I use it in a mandatory "cocktail" for foliar June dressings - 1 amp. Zircon + German liquid fertilizer for roses (can be replaced with 1 ampoule of Citovit). What we get as a result of using Zircon is that the density of the sheet plates increases, the color is more saturated and bright. Probably something changes to cellular level, immunity rises - I do not undertake further to look for scientific explanations. I like it - and that's it. At least the kind of bushes is good.
The second drug, which I also use every year and which has also entered the arsenal of mandatory "strawberry" remedies, is phytosporin. But as usual, after picking the berries, Mom cut off the leaves of the strawberry bushes and watered them with phytosporin diluted by eye on top, I do such phytosporin pouring of roses from a watering can in August. In May it is definitely not worth doing this, almost until June we may have frosts, and phytosporin works at temperatures of + 10 degrees. In June, my hands somehow do not reach him, I do spraying with Zircon. as I wrote above. But in the middle of July I breed a "cake" in an 80 liter barrel. I close this concentrate with a lid and then use it with water dilution 2-3 times by volume for strawberries. bearded irises and for roses. I think the concentration is much higher than recommended, but the results are good. Well, you can do it - as long as you have enough patience, up to three times at the end of July and throughout August. At least in the last terrible wet and cold summer of the epidemic of an emergency I did not have thanks to this spring Strobi prevention and August shower procedures with phytosporin.
As for the drugs that are more modern in time - gamair and alirin, I bought them in 2010 and primarily used them to treat leaf spot on some phlox bushes. It happened after reading the articles of Elena Mikhailovna Dorokhova - the chairman of the phlox section of the CM club and a chemist by education. And E.M. wrote about these drugs and glyocladin specifically for phlox! Then I did a three-fold spraying, the Konstantin's variety Dear Friend turned out to be especially painful. The treatment did not help. And the next year, no, no, yes, and this spot appears on him and on Mishenka. Since this hot summer of 2010 was a record for me in the manifestation of emergency on roses, then I used half of the solutions on the first sick roses (specifically - Empress Farah and Chateau de Versailles). The result - negative, as I wrote - in August I had to do Bordeaux. So m. the components of alirin and gamair do not work on the marssonin mushroom? As for glyocladin, I recently wrote again that these tablets have no effect on rose diseases, but for peonies and phloxes, they are mandatory against root rot. I experimented with the layout of the tablets for each rose bush this spring - it's a waste, believe me!
Summing up, I established for myself following rules "coexistence of my roses with an emergency:
1) preventive spraying with chemistry - Strobi, ZATO, Bayleton (it would be better to change drugs, I was told that addiction to strobilurin sets in) in May.
2) spraying with "immune-nutritional" cocktail with Zircon - in June.
3) phytosporin "souls" - in August.
And the most important thing is not to plant roses with a "clinical ability" to suffer from emergency situations in the strongest degree. There are not very many of them - Blue Perfume and Agnes Shiliger. In fact, over the years of observation, I can name up to ten varieties, no more, that have never been sick, and even in direct contact with infected. So go and understand the ways of infection! There has never been a speck on such varieties as rambler American Pillar, Delbarovsk fb Saint-Exupery and Rose de Molinard, Guillesh Chantal Merieux, Austin's James Galway. In general, there is little emergency on the ostins, but this happy summer both bushes of Emma Hamilton were noticeably sick, infected from the neighborhood of the old Louise Odier (she also got sick for the first time!). If you delve into your memory, you can find a couple of absolutely stable ones. The remaining 90% of roses can get sick, little by little, in some years, not to the detriment of flowering or winter hardiness.
Well, I think I have reported. I think that apart from the state of emergency and aphids, there are no problems (t-t-t!), Well, except for the struggle for survival in general.
It's a shame when, wanting to cut a bouquet of fresh fragrant flowers, you come up to a rose bush and notice black spots on the leaves of the rose. And the point is not only that such a bouquet cannot be given an aesthetic look. The rose bush may simply die.
The disease starts from the bottom of the plant and gradually rises up. The spots increase, unite. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. Bushes may remain completely bare. Flowers also lose their appeal. Fewer and fewer buds are formed.
If you do not take measures to save the bush, it dies within two to three years.
Black spot on roses is an insidious fungal disease caused by the fungus Marssonina rosae.
Black spot on roses, fortunately, can be cured if action is taken immediately when the first signs of illness are found. In flowers, like in humans, it is easier to prevent a disease than to fight it.
What measures can be taken to prevent the development of rose disease - black spot?
- when buying, choose varieties that are resistant to black spot;
- collect and burn the affected leaves so that fungal spores do not get on other bushes;
- correct pruning roses increases the resistance of plants to black spot;
- do not allow weeds to overgrow the soil around the bushes;
- spray rose bushes with infusion or horsetail;
- in rainy weather, sprinkle the ground around the bushes with ash and treat the leaves with special preparations (Rovral, Fitosporin, Gamair).
Black spot roses - treatment
If, after all, the plant is sick, then do not be discouraged. It can be cured. What do I need to do:
- carefully collect and burn diseased leaves;
- carry out a therapeutic spraying of the bush with special preparations.
How to treat rose spots?
In addition to black spot, the rose is sick with several other types of spot. The treatment is the same for all types of diseases. Specialty stores offer huge selection drugs for the treatment of these insidious diseases. But, guided by the reviews of gardeners, we recommend that you try a very effective 
treatment, which consists in alternating spraying the bush with drugs of different actions.
In the first week, spraying is used with preparations containing mancoceb, such as Gold, Profit.
After a week, spraying is carried out with preparations containing triazole (Skor, Topaz).
In total, no more than three such courses are repeated.
Inspect the bushes frequently for signs of disease. It is always easier to prevent illness than to fight it. The rose will thank you for your attention and care with a lush blooming view.
Like all cultivated plants, roses suffer from diseases and pests. However, this should not be taken as something inevitable. Pests are especially dangerous, as a rule, to roses growing in unfavorable conditions for culture. Sometimes certain weather conditions play a decisive role, and more often a complex of these factors.
The most common pests are: rose aphids, thrips, spider mites, rose leafhoppers; roses are also damaged by various types of sawflies, nutcrackers, beetles, weevils, bronzes, etc.
High temperatures, for example, can promote the multiplication of some pests, and prolonged wet weather causes the spread of fungal diseases.
If, moreover, roses grow in an inappropriate place for them, then diseases are inevitable:
- Gray rot, for example, spreads especially quickly in wet weather, in addition, many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain.
- Foliage that does not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor black spotting.
- Powdery mildew, and of the pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these harmful organisms.
Pests and diseases of roses with photos, descriptions and methods of treatment - to your attention on this page.
Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew and how to get rid of it
To get started, check out the photo and description of powdery mildew rose disease, which develops due to lack of calcium or dry soil.
Powdery mildew... On young leaves, shoots and buds appears powdery bloom; their thickening and curvature is observed.
Powdery mildew on roses represents mycelium and sporulation of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease in the form of mycelium in the kidneys overwinters. The development of the disease is facilitated by excessive nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold damp soils.
Look at the photos of powdery mildew on roses presented below:
Indoors, this rose disease develops especially strongly in rooms with insufficient lighting, humid, stale air. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of the soil in pots and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and varieties with more delicate foliage are especially strongly affected by this fungal disease of roses.
How to get rid of powdery mildew on roses and prevent re-infection?
When the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes: "Topaz", "Fundazol" or "Skorom". You can use the systemic drug "Raek" with long-term prophylactic and therapeutic effects.
Rust on roses: a description of the disease and how to treat it
Rust... The affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened.
As you can see in the photo, with this disease of roses in the spring, orange dust appears on the stems at the blossoming buds and at the root collar:
These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. Rust develops most intensively on roses in years with warm and humid spring.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also greatly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and impair metabolism.
In summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form on the underside of the leaves, which can give several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads. With severe disease damage, the leaves completely turn yellow and fall prematurely.
The spread of spores of a rust fungus occurs with the flow of air, water, and planting material.
How to treat rust on roses and when is the best time to treat plants?
To combat rust, unilateral nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring (before bud break) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1 - 1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
Recommended carefully and in a timely manner, affected by the stem form of rust. For the treatment of this disease of roses, from the moment the buds bloom, re-spray the plants (1%) or its substitutes ("Oxyhom", "Abiga-Peak", "Hom", copper oxychloride, "Ordan", "Topaz").
How to deal with black spotted rose leaf disease
Black leaf spot (marsonina). In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves different sizes... The leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots can also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes start to grow again, as a result of which they become very weak and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus, the causative agent of the disease, develops, forming radiantly growing strands. This radiance in case of black spot disease of rose leaves is clearly visible at the edge of the spots. Foliage that does not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor black spotting.
Roses are more sick with a thickened planting, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.
How to deal with black spot on rose leaves and when to start processing plants?
Measures to combat this disease include: proper agricultural practices that increase plant resistance; careful removal of affected leaves in the fall and burning them; spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust. Treatments should be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or abundant growth.
Gray rot on roses: description and how to deal
The following describes the disease of roses, rot, and how to deal with it on a personal plot.
Gray rot, for example, in damp weather it multiplies especially quickly, and given that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering. This fungal disease affects primarily the buds and pedicels. A whitish-gray fluffy bloom appears on them. The buds do not open, they rot.
Fogs and morning dew, as well as excessive sprinkling, especially in the evening, contribute to the development of rose gray rot. With excessive moisture, the whole bush can get sick and die.
Avoid planting roses next to gray rot strawberries more often than other plants.
How to deal with gray mold on roses using effective remedies?
At the first sign of the disease, spray the affected plants with a solution of Euparen Multi. Also water the soil under the bushes with a solution of the drug "Fitosporin-M", "Alirin-B" or Gamair.
Bacterial cancer on roses: photos and how to deal with the disease
Bacterial cancer... On the root collar and roots of plants, growths of various sizes are formed. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter.
See what bacterial cancer looks like on roses - growths consist of soft tissue, have an uneven tuberous surface:
In the process of decomposition by bacteria, they gradually change color from white to brown. There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year.
Less commonly affected aerial part - trunks and branches, mainly of and standard remontant roses. Here, lumpy nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
The causative agent that causes bacterial cancer in roses affects many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated high humidity soil, abundant manure fertilization, root injuries, alkaline soil reaction.
When transplanting a plant with an affected root collar, it is necessary to destroy, and cut off the growths on the lateral roots. After pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in liquid mixture clay with sand. With stem cancer, depressed necrotic spots first appear, on which the bark cracks, then their edges thicken. Affected stems die off if the edges of the spots close together.
Burns of leaves and branches of a rose: description and fight against the disease
Burning leaves and branches of roses - fungal disease. On the branches, at first, reddish spots appear, later - darkening spots in the middle; the reddish-brown edging persists for a long time. Growing up, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue deposits may form. Sick branches usually dry out in the second half of summer.
The development of "burns" is facilitated by excess moisture under the winter shelter.
To avoid severe damage to roses, you should remove the shelter earlier in the spring. Sick and frozen branches must be cut off and burned in a timely manner, and the plants must be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust.
Correct agricultural technology (timely fertilization, loosening and watering) contributes to the reduction of the harmfulness of the disease, it is necessary to achieve good maturation of the wood until the end of the growing season.
For the winter, plants should be covered, if possible, in dry weather so that high humidity is not created under the shelter.
Before the shelter, unripe shoots and leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Cytosporosis: photo and treatment of roses from disease
Cytosporosis - This fungal disease is widespread. Roses, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, and a number of ornamental shrubs are striking.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious desiccation. In some years, it leads not only to the drying out of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. This disease is especially susceptible to bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely trimming, etc.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles in the dying off individual parts of the cortex. On the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe affected bark, large, well-visible orange-red tubercles appear - pycnidia of the fungus, protruding from under the skin.
Cracks form at the border of the affected and healthy tissue. The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and blood vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up - downward, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.
The disease of cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with the general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage. And also regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilizing, soil cultivation, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches that have signs of disease with the capture of up to 5 cm of a healthy part of the branch.
How to treat roses from this disease in order to contain the spread of infection?
Early spring pruning of plants, spraying roses with 0.5% "Abiga-Peak" or 3% Bordeaux liquid on a green cone to some extent restrain the spread and development of the disease.
Pest of flowers and rosebuds green aphid
Aphid green damages roses and wild rose, damages in greenhouses and open ground. The pest among other aphid species is rather large, shiny, green, sometimes brown with very long black antennae.
In the spring, the larvae of these pest of rosebuds emerge from the overwintered eggs, turning into wingless females. Among subsequent generations, winged settler females appear, migrating to other plants, where they form new colonies. Ten or more generations develop during the year.
The number of these pests of roses in the open field usually increases in June, and they harm until the end of summer. Aphids settle mainly at the ends of young shoots and buds, there are few aphids on the leaves. Rose shoots damaged by green aphids are often bent, and the buds do not open.
The treatment of roses from these pests begins when the first larvae appear and is repeated as needed after two to three weeks until the aphids completely disappear. For this purpose, use: "Spark Double Effect", "Iskra-M" or "Confidor", "Commander", "Tanrek", "Zubr".
An essential advantage of the listed drugs for pests of rose flowers is their high efficiency even in hot weather, systemic mechanism of action, rapid penetration into plant tissues and is not washed off by rain.
In nature, aphids are destroyed by a lacewing and a ladybug.
Spider mite on roses: photo and how to get rid of it
Spider mite on the rose is especially dangerous for roses in dry, hot summers. Optimal conditions for its development the temperature is + 29 ... + 31 ° with air humidity below 35%. Under such conditions, the number of ticks rapidly increases, because every 10-15 days a new generation of the pest appears.
As you can see in the photo, a spider mite on a rose sucks out the cell juice from the leaves, as a result of which small light spots (pricks) appear on them, the leaves turn yellow, dry up and fall off:
How to get rid of spider mites on a rose using spraying?
Most effective in combating spider mite are: "Fufanon" and "Iskra-M". Spraying roses in the presence of a tick must be repeated after 10-12 days until its harmfulness decreases. If you use Tiovit Jet or colloidal sulfur in the fight against powdery mildew, then these drugs inhibit the reproduction of mites.
Rose leafhopper: description and treatment of roses from the pest
Below you will find a description of the leafhopper rose pest and learn about the fight against it at their summer cottage.
Rose cicada... The larvae of the rose leafhopper settle on the underside of the leaves, suck out the juice. The upper surface of the leaves changes color, they turn white, acquiring a marble color. With a large number of pests, damaged leaves fall off prematurely. Roses growing in warm, sheltered places especially suffer from leafhoppers.
The pest itself is a small white-yellow insect with two pairs of wings, which, in a calm state, fold over the back like a roof. The length of an adult insect is 3.5 mm, width is 0.7 mm.
Look at the photo - this pest of roses resembles an apple leaf:
The larva is white or pale yellow with a wedge-shaped pointed abdomen. The length of the larva is 2 - 3 mm, the width is 0.8 mm.
Eggs overwinter on branches at the base of the buds and in forks. Larvae appear during bud break. They develop during May-June. Unlike the larvae of aphids and leaf beetles, they are very mobile: disturbed, they quickly escape to the opposite side of the leaf.
At the end of June, the wing buds appear in the larvae, and they turn into nymphs. In early July, leafhoppers fled, and adult insects appear. Winged leafhoppers, like larvae and nymphs, settle on the underside of the leaf, sucking out the juice from them. After fledging, the adult leafhopper leaves the leaf on which it has fed and flies off to the grass and other plants or branches.
On the leaves damaged by leafhoppers - whitish with a marble color - white skins remain on the underside after molting of larvae and nymphs.
In addition to roses, leafhoppers damage rose hips and other plants from the Rosaceae family.
How to treat roses from these pests in order to protect plants?
In the fight against the pest, use the same drugs as for the fight against aphids. When spraying roses from pests, make sure that the underside of the leaf is carefully covered with a solution of poison.
Rose sawfly and leaf cutter bee on roses
Here you can see a photo description of rose pests, rose sawfly and leaf cutter bee.
Sawflies (rosaceous, slimy, comb-shaped, descending) eat leaves from the edges or scrape off the upper skin of the leaf, eat out holes on the leaves. And a descending sawfly, appearing at the top of a young shoot, penetrates into the shoot, grinds through a passage up to 4 cm long there, as a result the shoot hangs, the leaves wither on it. Sawflies hibernate in the soil in cocoons.
To combat these pests, the same preparations are used as against aphids, and spraying with the preparation "Lightning" also gives a high effect.
Leaf cutter bee... On the leaves of roses and rose hips at the end of June - July, you can see correctly cut oval or perfectly round holes.
This is the job of a leaf cutter bee that uses them to build its nest. Having chosen a suitable ready-made cavity - an abandoned bee's burrow, a barbel or an earthworm's burrow - the bee begins to clog it with casually cut pieces of rough leaves of oak, grapes, hawthorn. This plug serves to protect the socket.
After the cork is made, the bee begins to carve oval pieces of the more delicate rose leaves. Sitting on a sheet, she, like scissors, carefully “cuts” it, starting from the edge and gradually turning in a circle. First, the outer layer of the cell is made from large leaves, covering about a third of the circumference of the channel, so that the individual pieces overlap each other, and their lower ends turn out to be bent, forming the bottom of the cell. After that, with smaller pieces of leaves, the builder closes the gaps left between the first pieces and thickens the walls.
In order to seal the food-filled cell, the bee cuts out perfectly round pieces of leaves. In this case, the diameter of the first of them is exactly equal to the diameter of the cell, and the subsequent ones are cut out large and turn out to be concave inward, forming the bottom of the next cell. The first cell is followed by the second, and so on.
The largest leaf-cutting bee's nest has up to 17 cells. In total, it takes over 1000 pieces of leaves to build the nest, including the cork.
The finished nest of the bee - leaf cutter is a long cylinder that easily breaks down into separate cells. The leaves that each one is made of are easy to make out. Later, it is more difficult to do this, since, while pupating, the larva releases a sticky liquid between the pieces of leaves, which, when solidified, holds them together.
You can protect roses from this bee by spraying plants in the late evenings with one of the preparations that destroy wasps ("Super fas", "Otos"),
A new remedy has appeared - “Adamant” wasp bait. Wasps are also scared away by the drug "Sovka-Zh". In the ground, nests can be poured with boiling water.
Beetles on roses: weevils and bronze
The most dangerous beetles on roses are the weevil and bronze.
Weevils (leaf beetle). These are pests that gnaw the edges of the leaves of all types of roses - beetles of rather large sizes (up to 1 cm). They are black and gray, flightless. Active image lives are led at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil. That's why we don't see them. But not only weevil beetles are dangerous for roses, but also their legless larvae, the same large, colors ivory... The larvae live exclusively in the ground and eat up the roots.
With a large number of pests, rose bushes may die. Due to severe damage to the leaves, their effective area, and the plants wither, and then there are weakened roots.
Weevils are especially dangerous for bushes growing in the shade of trees, in dense plantings, with poor ventilation, as well as for old bushes, weakened by time and poor agricultural technology.
Beetles can be dealt with by spraying roses with one of the insecticides in the evening at sunset. Beetles can be collected manually at nightfall by the light of a flashlight, of course, if there are not many of them yet.
Golden bronze... This shiny green beetle with a coppery golden hue is very fond of yellow and white roses. The beetle is rather large (10-15 mm long and 12-14 mm wide). On the underside - a bronze-green color with a metallic sheen. On the elytra there are transverse thin, irregular shape, white stripes.
Beetles damage flowers by eating stamens and pistils, gnawing petals.
Gardeners call it "May beetle". The larva lives in the ground, it is six-legged, thick, white, up to 60 mm long, very similar to the larva of the May beetle, but, unlike the latter, it feeds on humus, does not damage the root.
At the end of summer, the larvae pupate, beetles emerge from them, which winter in the soil, and fly out the next summer.
Beetles fly from May to August, damaging the flowers of not only roses, but also white lilies, fruit plants.
Since it is impossible to spray plants with pesticides during the flowering period, the main measure of combating bronze is manual collection of beetles early in the morning, when they do not fly, but sit motionless on the flowers.
Walnut and scoop on roses: photo and spraying from pests
Walnut... These galls form insect pests. They are able to destroy the entire rosehip crop, drain the bush. With severe damage, the growth decreases, the winter hardiness of plants decreases. Walnut grubs overwinter in damaged fruits. Years of adult insects and infestation of young ovaries occurs in late May - early June.
In the fight against nutcracker, immediately after flowering, it is necessary to spray the rosehip twice with the same pesticides as against aphids and other pests. Good results are obtained by using the preparation "Lightning" (2ml per 10 liters of water).
In parallel, a mechanical struggle should be carried out (cut off and burn the appearing galls).
Scoops... The moth caterpillars live in the soil and feed mainly at night, so we often see only traces of their activity.
If there is a lot of damage, use pest drugs (the same as against aphids), spray in the evening after sunset.
Depending on the degree of damage, the bud can produce a deformed flower, so it is best not to leave it on the plant.
Thrips on roses: photo and fight with them
Thrips... Small (up to 1 mm) sucking pest. On the buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots of roses, larvae, nymphs and adults of this pest feed on.
As you can see in the photo, thrips on roses are light yellow in color:
Thrips weaken roses by sucking juices from leaves, buds and flowers. Buds damaged by pests, flowers, especially of light colors, are covered with characteristic small red specks. The flower becomes disheveled and fades quickly. At the base of the petals, pests are clearly visible to the naked eye. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves. They take on a silvery hue, as if damaged by a spider mite.
Adult insects hibernate in the upper soil layer and under plant debris.
The most endangered are roses growing in warm, dry places, such as near the walls of a house, on terraces on the south side or near paths and areas lined with tiles or covered with asphalt.
In the spring, thrips feed on the weeds, then the persians fly to the rose bushes.
In greenhouses, the pest gives up to eight generations per year. One generation develops within 22 to 30 days.
To combat thrips on roses in case of severe damage, the same preparations are used for spraying roses as in the fight against aphids.