One of the main disadvantages of wood building materials is a high susceptibility to rotting and vulnerability to wood-boring bugs. Since these processes are a direct consequence of the increased moisture content of the wood, most often such damage occurs in the lower part of the walls, for which the correct waterproofing of the lower rims has not been carried out.
It should be noted that the moisture insulation of the lower rims means not only the physicochemical processing of building materials, but also a number of design solutions, during which a small modernization of the foundation may be required.
This review discusses what affects the durability of the base of the frame, and what technologies exist to prevent its destruction.
Modern technology for the construction of wooden houses involves the installation of a log house on a stone foundation.
In this case, the base of the house is subject to several dangerous factors at once:
- capillary moisture coming from the foundation;
- humid atmosphere from the basement side;
- lack of sunlight, since the lower part of the wall is often in the shadow zone;
- dripping moisture and temperature drops from the outside of the walls.
In the latter case, the situation is aggravated by the fact that with an incorrect configuration of the base, moisture flowing down from the walls during rain accumulates in the lower logs and in the inter-row seals.
A direct consequence of the factors listed above is the development of microbiological formations in wood, affecting its structure and leading, as a result, to a complete loss of strength in the lower rims of the log house.
The greatest biological hazard to logs is represented by fungal structures, the first signs of which are the so-called blue, sometimes penetrating into the very core of the log.
The nutrient medium for such fungi is lignin, cellulose and oxygen. But the main catalyst for their development is always high humidity.
The second factor of biological damage to wood is woodworm beetles, the appearance of which is almost always associated with fungal infection of wood.
Taking into account the above, the main methods for solving the problem of the lower rims are:
- that hinder the development of microbiological formations;
- decrease in the throughput of the external capillaries of the logs, necessary to stabilize the internal moisture content of the wood at an acceptable level.
As mentioned earlier, the solution of the listed tasks is carried out not only due to additional processing of wood, but also through the use of special design solutions, the most significant of which will be discussed below.
Special design of the lower rim
If we imagine the volumetric structure of a log house, we can see that the classic lower crown, assembled "in a bowl", cannot be placed on a single-level foundation without a gap. It should be remembered that the larger such gaps and gaps, the higher the likelihood that they will become moisture accumulators and the cause of log decay.
In this connection, the sealing of the lower crown does not begin with the treatment of logs with mastic or impregnations, but with the conjugation of its geometry with the geometry of the foundation.
There are two options for solving this problem:
The first option is used for the construction of small buildings (baths, barns, etc.).
The second method is more used, since it avoids the need for "shaped casting" in the corners of the foundation and allows the use of a solid cushion board made of solid wood species.
Separately, we will consider such a solution as the aforementioned casing board, which is the simplest way to extend the service life of a log house by a good ten years, and also greatly facilitates the repair of the lower crown, if necessary.
The essence of this solution lies in the fact that between the foundation and the lower crown of the log house, a wide board is laid from the most stable wood species (oak or larch).
Please note that a wide board is always made from the central sectors of the log, the maximum stability of which is noted only for larch.
At the same time, it is important to take into account one feature of this technology: additional processing of cushion boards with any chemical compounds is not performed. The gasket is laid according to the same technique as for the gap between the joints.
Foundation edge shape
One of the reasons for the beginning of decay of logs is the accumulation of moisture in the zone of contact between the frame and the foundation. This happens most intensively if the foundation is wider than the contact zone with the frame and a kind of "shelf" is created to capture the water flowing down the wall.
This effect can be avoided if the foundation edge is cut at an angle of 45 °.
Waterproofing between the foundation and the frame
The most important point affecting the durability of the lower rims in houses made of timber or logs is the correct organization of waterproofing between the foundation and the frame.
The fact is that most of the now popular "stone" building materials have good capillary conductivity, and if you do not take measures for additional waterproofing, the lower crown will always be wet.
Cutting off moisture in this case is realized by laying sheets of roofing material or through covering the contact zone with liquid rubber.
Roofing material is laid according to the standard technique (on liquid bitumen), and between the waterproofing and the crown, an inter-crown seal must be installed.
Protective drip
In some cases, it makes sense to mount additional ebbs above the lower crown to minimize moisture inflow into the first inter-crown seams.
On the front facades of houses, such a solution is not always acceptable for aesthetic reasons, but on the rear walls, which are often shaded or are close to farm buildings, such protection will not be superfluous.
Please note that it is advisable to make such ebbs from the most protected material, since it will have to work in conditions of constant humidity.
Air holes in the foundation
Most often, on construction forums, you can find the question "Why is the lower crown wet if its waterproofing is done according to all the rules?"
The answer, as a rule, lies in the insufficient area of \u200b\u200bair vents in the foundation, due to which the humid air from the underground saturates the lower logs with moisture.
Note that proper ventilation of the subfloor or basement is of higher priority than the treatment of logs with moisture protection agents.
19.07.2016
Any construction starts from the foundation. What is it for? The task of this structure is to bear the weight of the entire structure and take all the load and distribute it evenly over the entire area. How reliable the foundation is will determine how long your structure will last and for how long. One of the most negative influences on the foundation is water. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the foundation waterproofing is done correctly. In the article you can read about what waterproofing is, what it is and what it is.
Vertical and horizontal waterproofing
Vertical waterproofing is carried out at a location between the foot of the foundation and the level of rainwater splashing. It requires a particularly careful approach to the quality of the material used, or rather to its moisture resistance, which will be a guarantee that the floor in the bath will not be damaged by water. The main task of this type of insulation is to provide reliable protection at the points of horizontal insulation and directly at the joints of the vertical one. Taking into account all the nuances, whether it be the thickness of the layer, the choice of soil, as well as the installation of various protections using expanded polystyrene plates, asbestos-cement sheets and other protective materials, should be carried out even at the design stage and when filling the pit.
As for horizontal waterproofing, it is used to protect walls from capillary absorption of moisture, which consists of several layers of bituminous roofing material. Usually, two independent horizontal waterproofings are made. The first is located under the ceiling of the basement, and the second at the support points of the walls on top of the foundation slabs. It is worth remembering about the need for a reliable connection of horizontal and vertical insulation at their joints, as well as both horizontal ones in the floor area.
Materials used and methods of application
There are several types of insulation applied: gluing, coating and plastering.
Adhesive insulation is a multi-layer water-repellent membrane, which consists of polycement bitumen films with a density of up to 5 mm. This method is widely used to protect structures made of brick, concrete or reinforced concrete. It is characterized by ease of application by pressing firmly against the surface and heating with a gas torch, effective water-repellent effect and resistance to cracks. However, with this type of insulation, to achieve the desired effect, additional pressure walls or screeds are required.
Another type of insulation application is the so-called coating insulation, consisting of membranes, but already up to 3 mm thick. For this type, special bitumen-polymer emulsions and mastics, as well as elastic or rigid polymer solutions, are widely used. The application of this insulation is also quite simple. The insulation is applied with spatulas, specialized paint floats and even sprayers.
Plaster insulation is nothing more than several layers of various insulating mortars up to 22 mm thick. As materials, mineral-cement mortar with various additives to increase moisture resistance, polymer concrete, hydro-concrete, asphalt mastics, etc. is widely used. Excellent for horizontal waterproofing, but it is necessary to apply plaster insulation only hot to avoid cracking.
Waterproofing the basement of the bathhouse - some features
It must be remembered that in brick and stone foundations, waterproofing is usually laid 15-25 cm from the ground level, and if they are placed on beams, then the insulation should be located 5-15 cm below them.
Do not forget about the treatment of the lower layer of the crowns with antiseptics and, importantly, the impregnation of this area should be even more than the entire frame as a whole. The existing voids must be filled with expanded clay, but it is worth considering the fact that expanded clay will effectively perform its functions with a layer thickness of 40 cm.
In the event that a basement is provided in the house, waterproofing must be placed in the foundation at the same level with the floor or 13 cm below it and in the basement 15-25 cm above the surface of the blind area.
The groundwater level must also be taken into account. So, if the groundwater lies below the basement floor, then the outer side of the wall, which is in contact with the ground, is covered with two layers of hot bitumen, and a 25 cm layer of oily clay is placed on the basement floor. After the clay is compacted, it is covered with a 5 centimeter. The concrete is leveled, kept for 10-14 days, and then treated with mastic and several layers of roofing material are glued on. Finally, the same layer of concrete is laid and leveled, which is then covered with cement mortar and ironed.
In the event that the groundwater is located above the basement floor level, it is necessary to carry out high-quality insulation of both the walls and the floor. An important point is to create around the walls at the points of their connection with the basement floor, the so-called elastic lock made of tow soaked in bitumen mastic. Especially such a lock is relevant in basements with clay soil with uneven draft.
Wall insulation from the outside is usually raised 50 cm above the water table.
Underground insulation, with a sufficiently high groundwater level, is carried out in the following sequence: a layer of clay 25 cm thick, concrete, waterproofing, cement mortar.
If the basement is provided, which are located below ground level, then in front of such windows it is necessary to construct the so-called wells-pits with walls lined with stone, brick or concrete. The bottom of the pit must have a reservoir for the oxen, and visors must be installed above the windows.
The foundation is also subjected to heavy loads in winter, when the soil freezes. Therefore, to protect the base from freezing, it is necessary to consider a number of important points. So the depth of freezing is influenced by the climate (thickness of the snow cover, temperature), and the type of soil, as well as the temperature inside the building. For example, non-freezing types of foundations include rock, coarse sand and gravel. It is easy to guess that on freezing soils, the foundation must be laid below the maximum level of soil freezing.
However, it should be remembered that deep (below the freezing level) laying of the foundation is not always decisive and effective. On the one hand, the vertical force of frost heaving ceases to act on the bottom of the foundation, on the other hand, the effect of the tangential force of frost heaving can tear the upper part of the foundation from the bottom or even pull it out together with the frozen soil. This is possible if the foundation is made of stone, brick or small blocks and such a foundation is located under small buildings. Therefore, to eliminate the tangential heaving force inside the foundation along the entire height, a reinforcing cage is laid, which reliably connects the top and bottom of the foundation, and the base of the foundation is expanded, it takes the form of a support platform-anchor, which in turn prevents the foundation from pulling out of the ground during frost heaving soil.
However, such a constructive solution is possible only when using reinforced concrete. However, when erecting a foundation of stone, brick or small blocks where vertical reinforcement is not provided, it is possible to prevent the adverse effects of the tangential force of frost heaving. For this, it is necessary that the walls of the foundation have a slope and taper upwards.
Video about foundation protection:
"Foundation waterproofing device":
Conclusion
Summing up, it can be noted that waterproofing the basement of a bath or a house does not present any particular difficulties and can be easily done with your own hands, taking into account all the small features and using the most effective and newest tools and materials.
An important aspect in the wood construction industry is to avoid permanent contact of wood with water. Weather precipitation is excluded, because rain and snow are short-term phenomena and the absorbency of a log or a bar depends more on the care of the owner himself. It is he who will have to foresee everything and take measures in advance for the processing of wooden elements. However, there is a section of the house that will always have the risk of interacting with water - this is the foundation and protecting it is the most important task of the owner.
Types of waterproofing
The most common material is Technonikol waterproofing for foundation. It is produced in the form of rolls that are rolled onto mastic without using gas burners for heating.
The laid waterproofing between the foundation and the log house has two purposes:
- Anti-filtration. Designed for aggressive environments and capricious soils. The soil often contains a large amount of chemical elements dissolved there, which can affect the composition of the foundation and have an adverse effect, slowly destroying it.
- Anti-corrosion. The condition of the wood directly depends on it - the waterproofing layer should not allow rot and, as a result, the rest of the damage.
Features of waterproofing works
Consider the first option, which must be laid before pouring concrete. Then there will be no sense. The owner must understand this even at the stage of determining the soil and model of the foundation for construction.
The main stages and features of DIY waterproofing:
1. When the ditches and formwork are ready, a layer of sand should be poured onto the bottom and thoroughly tamped down, spilling it several times with water. Then rubble is poured over it and also rammed. Together, both layers should not be less than 30 cm.
Only then are the remaining layers of the foundation cushion put in, and everything is poured with concrete. What's the point? The sand will serve as a filter for groundwater and, when raised, will have a retarding effect on the chemical elements dissolved in it.
And the water itself will not last long in it. This should be taken into account by owners whose houses are located near industrial enterprises, car parks, farms and other things. Waste products will necessarily end up in the soil, and who knows how it will behave when it meets the foundation.
2. The second option is common in understanding - wood should not come into contact with water. Waterproofing a log house from the foundation is done by creating layers between two different surfaces. This process has several ways - coating, glued and cushioning.
- For the first, bitumen mastic or liquid resin is used. Having brought them to the state of paint, the prepared foundation, freed from the formwork, is coated very carefully, leaving no white spots. The work is carried out in several layers to dry the previous one.
It is impossible to allow the surface to be a frozen hill, then the first crown will lie with flaws. A leveling trowel can be used for smooth work. The tree must also be coated. Or, with the help of a blowtorch, it is wrapped in basalt fiber.
- The next way is glued. Roofing material is used for it, which is also heated and tightly applied to the surface of the foundation. One layer cannot be dispensed with. Two are mandatory, three for the condition of the soil.
- The third method, in which the waterproofing of the foundation under the log house will last almost forever, involves the use of progressive means of protection from the current industry.
We are talking about styrenes. Styrofoam derivatives are the best moisture protectors available today. How to apply them:
Sheets of polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or extruded derivative are placed in a tamped ditch around the perimeter of the walls of the entire foundation. You can fix them "on zhivulku", all the same, the filling and reinforcement will press it as it should. Thus, the entire base is processed.
There is a nuance, when digging, you need to take into account the thickness of the material immediately and make the width appropriate. It also happens that when careless owners do not think about waterproofing right away, then the work will be complicated by the fact that a place is digging at the finished foundation for inserting slabs of material, which will also serve as insulation.
But before that, the surface must be dried from moisture and tarred, and while the bitumen is hot, it is convenient to stick the plates. Needless to say, the first crown is also oiled in this case.
This is how the foundation is waterproofed. It is possible to combine insulation and moisture protection using the third method for this - styrene laying, then the cost of additional materials will be reduced, which will reduce the cost of independent construction.
Residential log house and bath waterproofing
Protection from moisture is not only required for the foundation - the living space also needs it. For this, a kind of pie is laid - in addition to insulation, layers of hydro and vapor barrier are laid both inside and outside. However, this is intended for residential buildings that do not require cladding.
If the waterproofing of the log house is done in this way and closes the rounded log, there is no longer any point in buying decorative material. What to do in this case? On the outside, only impregnation and sealing will help. The inner side can be layered and decorated with wooden elements - block house, clapboard.
The bathhouse is the wettest room. Moreover, all of its premises are in constant contact with the steam. And it is impossible to soak, with the exception of especially advanced formulations or waste oil.
There is only one way out - the bath should have good ventilation and water drain. For this, the floor device is made in such a way that it is a concrete cushion at an angle.
In this case, the height of the clean coating should be at a decent distance from it. Impregnations so that the waterproofing of the bathhouse is at the level is required, but only with the appropriate marking, otherwise it will not improve anyone's health.
Laying the first crown from a bar - secrets and tricks
Before starting the construction of a house, everyone has a question: how to put the first crown from a bar? It is necessary to lay the first crown of a house from a bar as thoroughly as possible, with mathematical calculations, so that the walls of the future house stand perfectly exactly at an angle of 90 degrees. This is not too difficult to do - the main thing is not to rush and prepare very well for this work.
Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to lay at least two waterproofing layers in layers, then a lining board and then another layer of the same waterproofing.
Waterproofing between the frame and the foundation
Before laying the timber, the foundation should be waterproofed to the maximum. To do this, lay the roofing material twice, and then lay the glass insulating material once. All layers laid should exceed the width of your foundation by 25 centimeters around its entire perimeter.
The laid beams should be in contact with each other as tightly as possible, in no case should even the smallest voids be left in the wall, especially its lower part. After all, it is on this part that the floor is subsequently hung and all serious loads go.
You need to fasten the bars to each other on metal pins to a depth of 3 centimeters, and finish them off with a wooden mallet. If the beam has a slight bend, lay it down with a straight edge. There are times when the connection of the lower beams requires additional fastening with staples or nails (they need to be put through 2 crowns).
Before laying the waterproofing on the roofing material foundation. check that its upper plane is strictly horizontal. You need to check the horizontality with your own hands with a hydraulic level, since a simple level often gives a large error. The difference should not be more than 1 cm on the entire plane of the foundation. If the level difference is greater, level the plane with mortar or an additional layer of waterproofing.
We lay the first crown of the log house - assembly diagram
Before putting the timber on the foundation, we need to take care of the durability of our structure. To do this, lay out the slats pre-treated with an antiseptic, about 10-15 mm thick. The distance between them is 25-30 cm.
- Well, on top of the exposed rails, we put our first layer of beams.
The slats are necessary to prevent the crown from touching the foundation. This trick will greatly increase the life of the log house, thanks to additional protection against decay, and we fill the gap between the timber and the foundation with polyurethane foam.
- Next, we check with the level for evenness of the surface - because from the uneven 1st crown, an uneven wall is obtained.
- After eliminating the inaccuracies, fill the gap with polyurethane foam. The timber must be prepared in advance, even when the materials are delivered to the site. Choose the best beams that have the minimum number of knots, as smooth as possible, without any bluing. The timber should be chosen according to the cut of the annual rings - choose the one with the highest ring density (in this case, the timber should be the middle part of this tree). At the end of the cut, you should see circles that diverge from the center. The selected wood must be smeared several times with bitumen mastic (liquid), in combination with working off, so that the composition is absorbed as deeply as possible into the future timber. The ends do not need to be processed, they must be clean, because through them excess moisture will be removed from the wood. How you handle the wood. the service life of the lower crown and the time after which there will be a need to replace it directly depends.
In some cases, it is not necessary to fasten the first crown to the foundation - a house made of timber will be quite heavy and will stand very well on the foundation without anchors. Corner joints are made without the use of locks, the timber is joined by the ends. Such joints are made so that in the future it will be possible to replace any beam, without disassembling the corners. In the corners, the timber is connected by metal plates or staples at the abutment of various partitions.
Although many builders firmly fix the timber to each other and to the foundation.
All angles must be strictly 90 degrees, then the geometry of the house is considered ideal. It is necessary to check that the length of the opposite sides is equal, and the diagonals between the corners (opposite) of the house coincide - if everything is correct, then the corners are displayed exactly. When working on laying the lower rows, in no case should you rush, because what kind of walls will be obtained during further construction depends on this.
How to correctly lay out the first crown of a house from a bar?
When building a wooden house, the quality of laying the first row of beams is of great importance. It depends on this how smooth the walls will be, because it is quite difficult to correct mistakes during the construction process.
The strength and reliability of the entire structure as a whole depends on how well and correctly the first crown of a house from a bar will be laid out.
It is not necessary to have special knowledge or experience in order to properly lay the timber on the foundation, but, of course, you will have to try very well.
Selection and preparation of building material
The timber for building a house must be of high quality.
For a house from a bar, it is necessary to choose the highest quality wood, with a high density, an even surface and not damp. It is desirable that the beams for the first row be cut from the core of the tree, this can be determined by the annual rings on the cuts, they should be very tight and diverge from the center. Logs with black spots or bluish cut should not be used as a base.
The smoothest beams with the least amount of knots are selected and impregnated with liquid bitumen mastic, to which waste oil is added. The protective composition is applied 3 or 4 times so that the tree is saturated as deeply as possible, while the cuts must be left untreated - moisture will come out through them. The impregnated beams are laid out on a flat, open surface and allowed to dry completely. The material is then ready to be laid.
Foundation waterproofing device
The scheme of fastening the lower trim and waterproofing under the first crown.
Waterproofing a house from a bar should be performed after checking the foundation with a water level. In case of differences in height more than 1 cm, the surface of the foundation must be leveled with concrete mortar. Next, a bituminous mixture is prepared and the base is covered with a dense layer, diligently filling the smallest cracks and gaps. After that, the roofing material is heated with a gasoline or gas burner, cut into strips and laid directly on the mastic. The width of the strips should be about 20 cm greater than the width of the foundation. At the joints, the roofing material is overlapped by 10-15 cm, separately heated and again coated with mastic. When the first layer of waterproofing is laid, another one is made in the same way.
It is recommended to lay a layer of glass insulation over the roofing material; all layers should protrude beyond the edges of the foundation at the same distance along the entire perimeter. Instead of glass insulation, you can use a stacking board, but then it should be closed on top with roofing material and glue all the seams with mastic. The better the waterproofing is done, the more durable the building will be.
Laying the first row of a log house
The construction of the nodes of the first crown of a house from a bar.
To properly lay the first crown at home, the following materials should be prepared:
- wooden slats 15 mm thick;
- timber;
- metal staples;
- polyurethane foam.
The slats must be impregnated with any antiseptic, which will protect the wood from damage.
First, slats are laid on the waterproofing. They should be located across the foundation strip every 30 cm, while the length of the slats should correspond to the width of the foundation, as shown in the figure. Now the prepared beams begin to be laid on top, which form the first crown.
It is very important that the angles correspond to 90 °, otherwise the house will be skewed. Also, after the formation of a row, check its location relative to the horizontal.
If individual sections protrude from the common plane, they are leveled using a planer. Corner elements are butted and fixed with metal brackets.
When the crown of the house is laid, the gaps formed between the waterproofing and the timber are filled with polyurethane foam. This will not only strengthen the structure, but also protect it from the penetration of rodents, insects, water and snow. There is no need to fasten the timber to the foundation, since the structure will be quite heavy and will not be able to move. This completes the laying of the first row. This is followed by the stage of installing vertical racks inside the perimeter and cutting holes in the timber for the lag, after which you can proceed with the further construction of the walls of the house from the timber.
If the material for the construction is chosen correctly and the installation technology is followed exactly, the house will last for more than a decade without requiring major repairs. The most important thing is to perform each process as efficiently as possible, then even a lack of experience will not prevent you from building a strong, reliable and neat house with your own hands.
How to put the first crown of a bar on the foundation?
The very first responsible and not fast stage of laying walls from a bar is the installation of the first crown. Consider how to put the first crown of the timber on the foundation. Here you need to prepare very well - treat the timber for the first rad with an antiseptic (impregnation for wood) and it is better to do this from all sides so that the material is protected from decay. Usually it is enough to repeat the antiseptic procedure 2 times.
It would seem that it is difficult to erect walls from a bar, because it is almost like a designer, but the most difficult moments, it turns out, lie in creating a flat horizontal surface, which is often not achieved when pouring the foundation. Therefore, if the foundation is not ideal (made not in level), we align the horizontal position in one of the following ways:
- 1) level the foundation with a layer of mortar (concrete);
- 2) we smoothen the bars under the first crown, and later we fill the cracks with polyurethane foam or pour the foundation;
- 3) we cut off the beam of the first crown, so that it is even horizontally along the upper plane;
- 4) we make a 10 mm lining board, cutting and adjusting it to the ideal horizontal, and the first crown will fit on it;
- 5) we make masonry or masonry from structural foam concrete (grade not lower than D-500), due to which we will, by adjusting the thickness of the seams, find precious centimeters and create a straight line.
Before laying the timber, it is imperative to make waterproofing. For example, put on the foundation 2-3 layers of roofing material (or waterproofing material), which will cut off moisture from the foundation, which is destructive for the timber. The bottom row can be laid out with boards 50-100 mm thick and fastened together in a “thorn-groove”.
However, you can do without a lining board, immediately laying the first crown on the waterproofing.
The lower rims of the timber need to be cut off, and to connect them, prepare spikes with grooves (you can use the dovetail connection), trying not to confuse the position of the grooves and depressions.
We fasten the first crown of the house from a bar in the corners with metal staples, hammering them "under the face"). Here is, in general terms, the answer to the question of how to put the first crown of a bar on the foundation. This initial stage of laying the timber takes a lot of time, but after that the rest of the work will go much faster.
How to properly lay the first crowns on the foundation
Laying the first crown from a bar - secrets and tricks Before starting the construction of a house, everyone has a question: how to put the first crown from a bar? It is necessary to lay the first crown of a house from a bar ...
Laying timber
- Tools and materials
- Beam laying technology
- Features of the insulation process
- Installation of beams on the foundation
- Final stages of installation
Every home craftsman who is engaged in the construction of his own house, at a certain stage, has a question about how to lay a bar on the foundation.
For the construction of a house from a bar, a strip foundation with a height of 0.5 m above the ground is often used.
Tools and materials
For work, you must prepare the following materials and tools:
- waterproofing material;
- building level;
- fasteners, anchors, pins, nuts with wide washers;
- wooden mallet;
- antiseptics;
- electric planer.
Beam laying technology
The main point of the construction of a wooden house is the choice of timber.
Beam laying scheme.
The best of them are considered to be smooth, with the least amount of knots and without a shade of blue. When choosing a bar, you should pay attention to the annual rings. Preference is given to the bars, the density of the rings of which is the highest.
Laying timber cannot be carried out at a high level without a well-made foundation. The ideal option is a concrete monolithic slab, but the high cost of the material makes it impossible to use in most cases. The exception is mobile soil, where a foundation of a different type cannot be erected.
Quite often, for the construction of a wooden house from a bar, a strip foundation is used, the height of which above ground level should be at least 0.5 m. The elevated part is made of brick.
- Before laying the beams of the first crown, first determine that side of it, which will be inside the room. The side of the timber on which there is a visible defect will be directed upwards. The side of the bar with bulges will be lateral. In the process of laying the timber, it is necessary to take into account its shrinkage, according to which the final facing of the house is carried out after 1-2 years.
- The bar of the lower crown is coated with mining, the rest of it is treated with special antiseptic compounds.
- To put the first crown of a wooden house, everyone is carried out quite thoroughly, doing all the necessary mathematical calculations. This is necessary so that the walls of the new house are strictly at an angle of 90 °. The most important thing is not to rush at this stage and do everything with maximum accuracy.
Features of the insulation process
The foundation waterproofing scheme from above under the timber.
Before proceeding with the installation of the first crown, insulation must be carried out, for which two layers of waterproofing material should be laid, between which a lining board is placed.
Insulation includes two layers of rolled roofing material and glass insulation. All materials are laid in such a way that their edges protrude 25 cm beyond the foundation. At the corners, the insulation is overlapped.
Before the insulation is laid between the crown and the base, it is necessary to check the surface of the foundation, which should be perfectly flat, without drops. For this, a hydraulic level is used, which is more accurate than usual. Differences of no more than 1 cm relative to the entire plane of the foundation are allowed. Strong drops are removed by laying roofing material or leveling with cement mortar.
An equally important point is filling the gap between the foundation and the lower crown of the timber.
The most common way is to add cement mortar underneath the waterproofing layer. The work can be complicated due to the difficulty of accessing the desired location. In some cases, the gap is simply sealed with wood trims of a certain thickness. Wooden wedges or boards are attached between the roofing felt and the lower beam, which are driven tightly until the gap is completely eliminated. There can be an unlimited number of such inserts both in length and in width.
The scheme of laying the timber on the foundation.
The most common method of sealing cracks in recent years is to foam them with construction foam, which is sold in spray cans. It will be better to carry out such work in damp weather, when the material sets very well.
One day after foaming, the excess material is cut off with a sharp knife. In the future, the area between the lower crown and the plinth is closed with metal drips or a decorative strip. This is necessary in order to protect the foam from direct sunlight, under the influence of which it will collapse in just one season. In addition, a reliable barrier is created for the accumulation of moisture, which will lead to wood decay.
Installation of beams on the foundation
After the foundation is insulated, they begin to install the lower piping.
The beams installed on the foundation should fit fairly tightly to each other without creating a minimum space between them. This is especially true for the lower part of the log house, where the floor will be created and where significant loads will be placed.
Between themselves, the bars are fastened with metal pins, which are achieved with a wooden mallet. In some cases, if necessary, the bars are additionally fastened with staples or nails.
The scheme of fastening the bars to each other.
The docking of the bars of the lower crown with each other occurs by sampling at the corners in any of the existing ways:
- "In half a tree" - a variant of laying beams, in which the upper half of the array is removed in corner joints on one beam, and the lower half on the other;
- "In the paw" - the most common way of joining the beams, which is the opposite and does not include the end part of the log, which protrudes beyond the wall level.
By means of nuts and wide washers, the timber is attached to the surface of the foundation. A wide washer will expand the area where the nut touches the surface of the tree. You only need to use a hex nut, and square or round nuts will not work for this purpose. If you use narrow nuts for fastening the bars or do not use them at all, then during the installation work it will be quite clear that the nut will completely sink into the surface of the bar and the connection of the frame elements of the house will be unreliable and short-lived.
Final stages of installation
When the beams of the lower rim in the corners have been fastened with pins or nails, the anchor is usually not installed. In the future, the first anchors will be installed on the inner contour of the fundamental tape.
- One piece of timber should have at least 2 anchor bolts, provided that the house has short walls.
- Using the building level, carefully check the diagonals and corners of the lower rim. All existing irregularities are eliminated with an electric plane.
- After the beams are attached to the foundation, they begin to install the vertical racks of the house frame.
The issue of attaching the timber to the foundation is controversial and has both supporters and opponents. Despite this, experts say that fastening is mandatory, since the foundation tends to be in motion, it is often said that it "walks". The rigid fixation of the lower harness fully assumes any movement of the base.
In the most critical situation, the lower rim of the beams is able to move slightly to the side or pull out the anchor. That is why fastening the timber to the foundation surface guarantees the stability of the entire structure.
In some cases, the lower crown of the log house is not attached to the foundation, since this is considered superfluous. Under the weight of its own weight, a house made of beams will stand quite firmly without anchors. Corner joints are created without the use of special locks, and the beam itself is joined by means of the ends. This method allows, as necessary, to replace any part of the timber without disassembling the corners.
How to lay a beam on a foundation: installation steps (video)
Every home craftsman who is engaged in the construction of his own house, at a certain stage, has a question about how to put a bar on the foundation. In addition, the insulation of the base is also of interest.
How to lay the timber on the foundation? Analysis of all the subtleties
It is categorically impossible to put a crown right away, on a bare, albeit completely dry foundation. Moreover, the lumber barely brought from the warehouse is not suitable for starting work.
- The first thing to do is to insulate the base from water. A house on earth is affected not only by rainfall, but also by groundwater. Their seasonal rise is not the only danger. Even the presence of groundwater in a state of temporary rest does not stop their insidious effect on the foundation, since there is such a phenomenon as capillary penetration. Therefore, the foundation must be thoroughly protected from moisture. For this purpose, the level is checked for its evenness and height differences are eliminated - by filling the depressions with concrete or laying pieces of roofing material.
Those who bought the profiled timber will join it in the way that the profile suggests. If you have stocked up with a budget option, you will have carpentry work on sampling wood at the ends to connect the timber in the corners. There may be several options.
- "Half-tree". The simplest connection is at the stage of preparing the timber. The upper half of the sawn timber is removed on one element and the lower half on the second. However, such a connection is considered not the most successful, since in case of errors in selection or assembly, the house bears
- significant heat loss.
The process is as follows.
- On top of the rails, strictly along the marked perimeter, the first row of the timber is placed. Its geometry is carefully checked by level.
After laying out the first row of timber, the gap provided by the backing rails is filled. There are several ways to eliminate the gap: it is clogged with wooden wedges, it is covered with cement mortar. But modern craftsmen often blow out the gap with polyurethane foam. Until it dries, no further work is carried out. After the swollen excess foam is simply cut off.
How to lay the timber on the foundation? Analysis of all the subtleties - Easy repair of apartments and houses
Instructions on how to lay a timber on a foundation are generally simple, but require extreme precision and accuracy from the builder. Incorrect calculation and negligence in work will lead to
The construction of the house takes place in stages. The foundation is laid first. It depends on him how strong and durable the finished building will turn out.
It is important to understand: the foundations of a log, brick or block building are different. The specific gravity of wood is lower, therefore, the pressure on the foundation is low. The grounds for log cabins are classified into:
screw;
pile;
tape;
columnar.
Each foundation stands out with specific benefits. But disadvantages are not excluded. When choosing a foundation for a log house, it is necessary to take into account such factors: the quality of the soil, the proximity of groundwater, the mass of the building. And, no matter how trite, the material costs of the event.
Pros and cons of screw, pile, strip and columnar foundations for log cabins
Heavily soil, which is able to freeze deeply, needs to be installed with a strong log. In this capacity, pillars made of different materials are used: from wood to concrete (fbs). The pillars are reinforced at the support points of the log frame. Pros of a columnar foundation:
profitability;
comfortable on difficult terrain;
quick installation.
Minuses:
designed for one-story buildings;
cannot be mounted at low temperatures;
unsuitable on loose ground.
When erecting a building with a basement, a strip-type foundation is the best option. It is laid in the form of a solid frame, which is able to keep the overall structure. Pros of tape bookmarking:
low cost;
even distribution of the weight of the log house;
there is no need to clean up the soil under the whole house.
Minuses:
cannot be used on heaving ground;
large labor costs.
How to put a house from a bar on swampy soils? The foundation on piles will help resolve the situation. This will require experienced craftsmen and considerable labor costs. It justifies itself when:
sharp drops in the terrain;
Floating soil on the construction site.
The disadvantage of such a foundation is that there is a need for special equipment for installation.
On wet soils, it is advisable to use a screw foundation. The steel pile is taken as a basis. For ease of screwing it has a screw tip and a wide blade. The pile diameter is calculated depending on the complexity and dimensions of the structure being erected. The following factors speak in favor of the screw foundation:
alignment of the site is not required;
no waterproofing required;
low labor costs;
simplicity and speed of the device.
An unpleasant moment, a minus of the pile-screw foundation, will, over time, corrosive destruction of the pile. The subsidence of the base will also bring many troubles due to poor-quality work.
The optimal choice of foundation for a log house: price vs quality
When choosing a foundation, it is fundamentally important to pay attention to the following parameters: soil composition, load and building area, site relief. Do not forget about the value for money.
A profitable solution for the construction of a small house, summer residence, will be a columnar foundation. A more solid structure, with a perspective, is best placed on a strip foundation. The amount of costs will be ¼ of all costs. You will be pleased with the quality and reliability, as well as the good possibility of arranging a basement or garage, basement floor.
Time consuming, costly - pile foundation. The price is justified only in the presence of unreliable soil, where another option cannot be fixed.
The screw foundation is economically profitable: at minimal cost, a reliable, earthquake-resistant, quickly erected frame under the house is obtained. Its cost is lower in comparison with other types of foundation by half.
Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, a quarter of the cost will be spent on installation. Reasonable approach and correct calculation will reduce costs without compromising quality. The price is influenced by:
used material;
the type and size of the building being built;
foundation width;
installation method.
An important point when carrying out work is waterproofing.
Log waterproofing from the foundation
The quality, strength and durability of a log house directly depend on the isolation of the log house from the foundation. Neglect at this stage of construction entails such problems as:
dampness;
cold floor;
the presence of condensation on the walls of the basement;
the formation of mold and mildew.
Pile-grillage foundation
Waterproofing between the log house and the foundation will help to significantly reduce or avoid the above problems. There are two types of it: anti-filtration and anti-corrosion. The first is used when installing a log house on soils with a high content of chemical elements. The second - directly protects the wood from rot.
Anti-corrosion waterproofing of a log house from the foundation provides two ways:
coating;
glued.
For the coating method, heated bituminous mastic is required. The finished foundation is carefully coated in two or three layers. Accordingly, the initial layer should dry well before applying the next one. Then put the blockhouse, coated in the same way.
With the glued method, roofing material is used. It heats up and fits between the base of the foundation and the lower crown of the log house. It is advisable to lay three such layers.
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Maximum service life without repairs
The safety of the foundation for a bar without repair depends on the assembly method and compliance with the technical parameters. The strip foundation proved to be the most durable. Its "life span" reaches 150 years.
