Learn how to deal with black spot on roses. We describe the treatment (control measures and how to treat the flowers to get rid of the disease).
We name the best drugs and remedies for black spot, as well as expert recommendations and prevention.
Description of the disease
Unfortunately, black leaf spot on roses can be found in almost every place where they are grown, and on all continents. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Marssonina rosae, its spores overwinter with infected foliage and shoots, and actively move with water droplets.
With the arrival of spring and the beginning of active vegetation, the disease begins to spread from the ground to the top of the flower. Signs of black spot can be seen as early as June - July, as a rule, on weaker and more susceptible specimens.
In August - September, black spot appears on more resistant varieties and strong plants. Moreover, during the summer and autumn, repeated exacerbations of the disease often occur.
What does black spot look like?
On outside leaves appear brown, gradually blackening spots of a round shape from 5-6 to 14-16 mm in diameter with a yellow edging or big amount small blurry spots.
Over time (5-10 days), they combine with each other, and the leaves turn black-brown or yellow, then curl and fall off. In place of the spots, "tuberosities" are formed from the spores of the fungus of a round or oblong shape, which are barely visible.
Black spot can also affect young shoots, stems (slight lignification and further drying) and sepals.
Black spot roses
What harm does it do?
As a result of the disease, the leaves fall off prematurely, which forces the rose to form new shoots. They do not have time to fully mature and freeze over the winter. Because of this, the plant grows poorly and lags behind in development. The disease is especially dangerous for young bushes.
Rose leaf diseases similar to black spot
Often, gardeners mistake other diseases for black spot due to the great similarity of most of them. Therefore, it has become a collective image. In addition, diseases have different pathogens and perhaps that is why it is difficult to cure it.
Ascochitous spotting. Brown spotting. Downy mildew. Purple spotting. Leaf spot. Ramulariasis. Septoria. Sfacelloma. Phylostictosis. Cercosporosis.
Read more on Wikipedia in the article on pests and diseases of roses -.
How to deal with black spot on roses?
It is easier to fight a disease if it is detected early and treated immediately, but even then it is difficult to get rid of it. Flower growers will have a long struggle and a set of preventive measures.
Black spot treatment: control measures
- Cut off absolutely all affected leaves on the bush. Collect and remove (take out, burn) all fallen leaves.
- Treat the rose with copper preparations, systemic or systemic contact fungicides according to the instructions (usually 2-4 times every 7-12 days).
- Spill the soil around the plant with Fitosporin-M 2-3 times between sprays.
- Before covering the bush for the winter, collect all the leaves and remove them from the garden (burn) and treat it with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.
- Start preventive actions in spring.
Black spot on roses
Preparations for the treatment of black spot on roses
To cure the disease, you need to use special drugs (fungicides) that suppress the development of the fungus. Next to the name of the funds, we indicate the active substance, hazard class, approximate price and its application.
Copper fungicides
"Abiga-Peak" (3, copper oxychloride)
Price: 75 g (bottle) - 99 rubles. Application: 40-50 g per 10 liters of water. Maximum of two sprays.
"Bordeaux mixture" (2, copper sulfate)
Price: 100 ml - 119 rubles. A proven drug for treatment, but it is better to use it in the event of an active and massive spread of the disease, since it is very toxic. Affected leaves do not regain their original color, but young leaves that have grown by autumn look good.
Application during the growing season: 10 g of substance + 10 g of lime per 10 liters of water (1% solution). No more than two treatments every 7-12 days.
Attention! Apply copper preparations sparingly to avoid creating an excess of copper in the ground.
Systemic fungicides
Previkur Energy (3, propamocarb hydrochloride, aluminum fosethyl)
Price: 20 ml - 180 rubles, 60 ml - 355 rubles. Spraying application: Dissolve 1.5 ml with 200 ml of water and then add 800 ml. For soil spillage: 15 ml per 10 liters of water at intervals of 14 days for up to five treatments.
"Skor" (3, difenoconazole)
Price: 2 ml - 53 rubles, 2 * 2 ml - 98 rubles. Application: 2 ml per 10 liters of water, maximum - three treatments every 7-8 days.
Domestic analogue - "Raek" (3, difenoconazole in the same concentration). Price: 2 ml - 29 rubles, 10 ml - 69 rubles.
"Topaz" (3, penconazole)
Price: 2 ml - 32 rubles. An effective and renowned drug with a powerful therapeutic effect... Application: 4 ml per 5 liters of water, no more than three treatments every 7-10 days.
Fundazol (2, 3, benomyl)
A very popular fungicide. It is officially produced in packs of 5, 10 and 20 kg, but there is also a manual packing: 10 g - 60-80 rubles.
Application. Sprinkle roses with a solution of 10 grams per 10 liters of water. A maximum of four treatments per season every 7-20 days, depending on the mass of the lesion.
- Attention! A very toxic agent. Take 1-2 years off the drug.
Other popular drugs: Bayleton (3, triadimefon. Minimum package - 1 kg), Topsin-M (2, methyl thiophanate, hard to buy in a small package).
Systemic contact fungicides
Ordan (3, cymoxanil + copper oxychloride)
Price: 25 gr - 45 rubles. Application: 25 g per 10 liters of water. Maximum three sprays per season every 7-14 days.
"Profit Gold" (3, famoxadon and cymoxanil)
Price: 3 gr - 42 rubles, 6 gr - 75 rubles. Application: 4 grams per 10 liters of water, every 8-12 days. Maximum three treatments.
Other popular drugs: Ridomil Gold MC (2, mancozeb, mefenoxam. Package - 1 kg).
- Prices based on hypermarkets "Leroy Merlin", "Obi", etc., rate 1 dollar = 60 rubles.
Important! When working with chemicals, follow the manufacturer's instructions and be sure to use personal protective equipment.
Which is the best fungicide to choose?
To fight black spot on roses as effectively as possible, it is necessary to alternate contact and systemic drugs, as well as systemic ones with different active substances, so that the fungus does not have time to adapt to them.
We recommend starting the fight with the least toxic agents (3rd or 4th hazard class). The choice of fungicide depends on what means you are treating roses for prophylaxis in spring, summer and autumn, and whether you spray at all.
We have named proven drugs for the treatment of black spot on roses, and then you try this or that fungicide and see the result.
Preparations for prophylaxis
"Copper sulfate" (3, copper sulfate)
Price: 100 gr - 26 rubles. Proven agent with powerful fungicidal action. It is allowed to spray the bushes only once a year. Therefore, it is better to treat roses with copper sulfate in the spring, before bud break or in late autumn. Application. 50 grams of substance per liter of water.
"Stroby" (3, kresoxim-methyl)
Price: 200 gr - 2850 rubles. Spraying does not guarantee complete absence black spot, individual affected leaves may still appear, but there will definitely not be a massive infection.
Systemic treatments are required in May exactly every 10 days: 1. 10 g of substance per 10 liters of water, 2. 5 g / 10 l, 3. 2.5 g / 10 l. It is better to apply after, but it is possible two years after one (a remedy with another active substance - not from the strobilurin class).
"Fitosporin M"
Price: 10 g - 20 rubles, 200 g - 65 rubles. Biofungicide, regular spraying from May to autumn, especially important in August. The main rule: if you start splashing, then continue every week. If the schedule is violated (no time, rain), then there is a high probability of infection.
When black spots appear, there is no point in processing further, go to drugs for treating the disease. Buy only fresh preparation, and it is better to buy a paste in a briquette (flat cake), and not a concentrate solution. The effectiveness of "Fitosporin" increases in combination with the paste "Gumi".
Hom (3, copper oxychloride)
Price: 20 g - 35 rubles, 40 g - 49 rubles. Application: 30-40 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying before and after flowering.
Folk remedies
It is better to use folk remedies for prevention, since they will not be able to cure black spot of roses with their help in 99.99% of cases.
A proven prophylactic agent that suppresses various types of fungus. Application: dilute 1 ml of iodine in 400 ml of water.
Mullein
Dilute mullein 1 in 10 with water and leave for several days. Then water the entire bush liberally after removing the winter shelter. Infusion of mullein can be poured over the plant before bud break.
It is actively used by many growers who are engaged in the cultivation of market roses. The buds are not scalded, the fungus is suppressed and at the same time an excellent feeding is obtained.
Also, rose growers douse the bushes 2-3 times from May to July for prevention: the infusion is 1 to 10, and then it is diluted with water 1 to 10 more.
Onion and garlic skins
According to rose growers, the effectiveness of the husk decoction is higher than the infusion. Also, onion and garlic husks can be used as mulch under a bush to repel mice.
Pour a large handful of husks (30-40 g) with water and bring to a boil. Then leave for 6-8 hours. Spray generously on the bush and spill the soil underneath. After blooming, just water at the root and slightly moisten the leaves so that the petals do not stain.
Ineffective funds
Wood ash. A popular and very useful substance, but unfortunately ineffective in the case of spotting on roses. It is advisable to use wood ash for soil mulching in July - August, as a natural potash fertilizer.
Herbal infusions (nettle, horsetail, etc.). It is often recommended, but the effectiveness is close to zero.
Citrus. Decoction and infusions of citrus fruit peel, in any ratio, method of preparation and use. The result is 0.
Alirin and Gamair. Good preparations, but, according to gardeners' reviews, it is black spot that often appears after preventive spraying. Some rose growers share their successful application experience so that everything is individual.
"Glyocladin". It is for rose diseases that there is no effect. A must-have for preventing root rot in phlox and.
Prevention: how to prevent illness?
Strong and healthy plants have great resistance to fungus, so you need to properly care for the flowers.
In preventive actions, consistency, timeliness and an integrated approach play an important role, and it is also better when they are carried out throughout the entire site, and not just rose gardens.
- Plant in a sunny location. There should be enough space between them, because with excessive planting density, moisture slowly evaporates and it is easier for black spot to move from one flower to another.
- Timely and correctly prune the plant in the spring (sanitary and formative), process the cuts with crushed charcoal.
- The likelihood of being affected by the disease increases an excess of nitrogen fertilizers (feed only until the first half of summer) and a lack of potash.
Feed regularly with potassium (potassium sulfate, potassium salt, wood ash) from spring to autumn. Mandatory feeding: late May - early June and late July - mid August. - Water and fertilize with liquid fertilizers only at the root. Do not water in the evening and at night.
- Enrichment of land under bushes beneficial bacteria... Mulch with cut grass, add compost or rotted manure, use the biofungicide Fitosporni-M (spraying, watering the soil).
Treatment of roses in spring from black spot
To prevent the onset and development of the disease, it is important to process roses after winter.
- Immediately after opening in the spring (before bud break), spray the flower and the ground under it with a 2-3% solution of Bordeaux liquid (220-250 g per ten liters) or 3% solution of copper or iron sulfate (300 g per ten liters). Alternate the remedies every spring.
- At the beginning of leaf blooming (temperature above +10 ° C), spray roses with copper-containing preparations or Strobi treatment according to the system described in the section "Prevention preparations".
- If you don't want to use chemicals, then at temperatures above +10 ° C, treat with biological ("Baikal Em-1", "Gumistar", "Fitosporin-M") or folk remedies (iodine, decoction onion peel, infusion of mullein) every 6-12 days.
Summer
Remove weeds and fallen leaves regularly, inspect flowers and apply top dressing. Spray from June to September with growth stimulants and strengthening the immune system ("Zircon", "Epin - Extra").
"Zircon". Reliable formulation, proven to be effective on many types of plants. Spraying with this agent increases the density of the leaf plate, promotes the growth of green mass and strengthens the plant's immunity.
Autumn
- In September, feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (40 grams of potassium salt and superphosphate per 10 liters of water).
- Before covering for the winter, be sure to cut off all the leaves on the bush, collect and take out, or burn the fallen leaves.
- Then treat the flower and the ground near it with copper-containing preparations: 3% iron solution (preferable) or copper sulfate.
- Black spot can attack roses from rose hips growing nearby the site. If possible, transplant them as far as possible.
- Remove varieties from your garden that get sick much earlier and more severely than others suffering from black spot.
- According to many experienced florists at least two steps must be strictly followed: spring spraying and removal of all foliage from the bushes and under them before sheltering for the winter. The result from the execution is felt immediately.
- Not a single variety possesses absolute immunity to disease. Therefore, they are divided into "susceptible" and "less susceptible." In general, modern hybrid varieties are more resistant to black spot.
- Prevention is essential. Black spot resistant variety at improper care will hurt more often. At the same time, due to the observance of preventive measures, it is possible to increase the resistance of the "susceptible" variety to the fungus.
Best neighbors for roses
Some growers like to plant some plants next to roses, but much depends on the climate and soil type.
"Neighbors" will not cure black spot, but to a certain extent the bushes will protect against certain diseases and pests that emit sweet honeydew (aphids, thrips, etc.), on which a sooty fungus settles.
Other gardeners have not noticed the beneficial effect in their experience, and note the inconvenience of planting and controlling the spread of such plants.
Lemon catnip, Lavender, Tagetis "Grunt-control", but you can also flowering varieties, Oak sage.
It is important to avoid near viburnum,.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
We wish you to encounter and fight black spot of roses as little as possible!
Handsome and blooming garden- it's not only landing cultivated plants, but also daily care for them. Of course, the “queen of flowers” rose will become a unique decoration of any garden. Did you notice black spots on the leaves of the rose? At the same time, you do not know what to do with the plant and how to treat the leaves? Then this article is for you!
Causes and symptoms of appearance
The effectiveness of the fight against any disease depends on the correct definition of the disease and clarification of the causes of its occurrence. Black spot of roses is easily identified by its characteristic features:
- the bush stops growing and does not throw out new buds;
- dark spots form on the lower leaves of the plant, which visually resemble the sun in shape;
- the diameter of the spots can be from 5 to 15 mm;
- the brownish tones of the middle with yellow edging gradually acquire a darker color;
- small black spots on roses eventually combine into one large one, affecting the entire leaf, as a result of which the leaf turns yellow, dries up and falls off;
- the disease moves from the bottom up.
The disease progresses especially in the second half of summer. Several active outbreaks are possible during one growing season. Climbing, tea and polyanthus varieties of roses are at risk.
In addition to the definition of the disease (black spot of roses is often confused with powdery mildew), it is important to establish the reasons that could affect the onset and development of the disease. So, the key reasons include:
- improperly chosen place for planting a seedling (poor air circulation, lack of sun, and a large number of plants prevent moisture evaporation, which contributes to the development of the fungus);
- weather and climatic conditions (an abundance of precipitation, after which the drought season sets in - an excellent breeding ground for spores of fungal infections);
- improperly organized feeding (both lack and excess of fertilizers);
- lack of proper care for ornamental crops.
What is the danger for the plant
Black spot on roses is a dangerous disease. As you know, any ailment is much easier to prevent than to deal with it later. possible consequences, but, as they say, anything happens in life. Did not carry out timely prevention of diseases of decorative culture or did not pay attention to black and brown spots on the lower leaves - now you have to deal with what you already have.
Remember, the disease will not go away on its own. If you do not take emergency measures for treatment, then first the rose will shed the lower leaves, which already have dark spots, then all the remaining foliage will turn yellow and crumble. The disease gradually covers the entire plant; after one or two seasons, the rose will die.
Black spot is a fungal disease of Marssonina rosae that spreads through dewdrops or rain. Having found dark traces on the leaves of one ornamental crop and not having taken any methods to combat the disease, you should not be surprised when, after a while, you see similar symptoms on other plants of your rose garden.
Prevention and treatment
Have you noticed black spot of roses in your garden, but do not know how to fight? It will be difficult to cure the plant if the disease is neglected. But do not despair and give up - you can still fix it if you properly treat the affected areas and take preventive measures in relation to other rose bushes.
Unfortunately, most of novice gardeners make an irreparable mistake in caring for their rose garden: having noticed that leaves with black spots fall off by themselves, let the situation go by itself, hoping that over the winter the ailment will pass without their intervention. The spores of the fungus overwinter in the soil and become active with the onset of spring.
What should be done when the first signs of black spot are found? Examine the plant carefully, tear off all leaves affected by the fungus and burn them in a remote area of the garden or even outside of its territory. The next step - the roses are treated with fungicides, which contain mancozeb and zinc. This procedure should be repeated every 2 weeks. To avoid addiction of the fungus to the drug, alternate between different chemical agents... The most common and potent ones include: "Oxyhom", "Profit", "Fundazol", "Topaz", "Skor", "Strobi", "Ridomil Gold", copper oxychloride and others.
If there is no desire to use chemicals, then you can try to use biologically active drugs, among which Fitosporin-M is considered the most effective.
In the fight against black spot, all means are good, so we suggest that you put into practice some folk methods:
- infusion of horsetail, dandelion and nettle;
- decoction of onion and garlic peels;
- sprinkling the affected areas with crushed ash;
- cow dung, previously diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10;
- decoction or infusion of citrus peel.
For greater efficiency in the fight for a plant, you can combine folk methods with professional means.
The appearance of ugly spots on the leaves is capable of overshadowing the beauty of the flowering of rose bushes. The spots can be brown, white, yellow, red or rusty and in all cases indicate a plant health problem.
Black spot - fungal disease whose symptoms most often appear in summer period, not only significantly reduces the decorative effect of the bushes, but can also interrupt the flowering of roses.
Black spot in roses is caused by the fungus Marssonina rosae. The pathogen spreads by spores and is activated in conditions of high humidity in warm weather. The most favorable time for the development of the fungus is spring. The disease rarely occurs in dry and hot summers.
First of all, bushes growing in lowland areas or surrounded by dense thickets of plants in a flower garden are susceptible to the disease, since these factors prevent the normal evaporation of moisture after precipitation and irrigation. The development of fungi is also facilitated by: lack of lighting or nutrients in roses, especially potassium deficiency, excess nitrogen, heavy and acidic soils are critical.
Symptoms and course of the disease
The disease does not manifest itself immediately, the first signs of damage appear a month after the active development of the fungus. The exception is warm and humid summers; at temperatures around 30 ° C, the disease becomes noticeable after 10 days. On average, black spots are most likely to be found on rose bushes by mid-summer.
The lesion spreads from the bottom to the top of the bush. Dark brown spots appear on the leaves and shoots, framed by a yellow border. As the disease progresses, other symptoms appear:
- spots become black and increase in size;
- curling and yellowing of the leaves is observed;
- falling of deciduous cover from bushes;
- slowing down and stopping the growth of shoots;
- poor flower formation, up to the cessation of flowering.
Attention!
The spores of the fungus overwinter safely in the soil, which makes it likely that the disease will reappear in the next season.
Black spot treatment
The fight against black spot is reduced to pruning the affected parts from the bush, treating plants with antifungal agents and preventive measures that also inhibit the development of the fungus.
Timely spraying of roses with folk remedies, as a rule, gives a positive result, while in the later stages of the disease, it is recommended to use chemical fungicides. It is worth considering that after the first symptoms appear, the disease begins to develop very quickly.
The most powerful folk remedies:
Advice!
In autumn, when pruning bushes, affected shoots, regardless of the degree of damage, should be cut to the level of the second or third bud.
Prophylaxis
Black spot prevention measures include:
- providing roses with suitable conditions for growth;
- compliance with annual sanitary measures;
- preventive treatments in case of disease risks.
Growing conditions
Prevention of black spot in roses begins with choosing a planting site for bushes and planning a flower garden.
Culture requires:
- The sun. For roses, take away sunny places where plants can get enough light during the day. It will also benefit the flowering and overall health of the bushes.
- Weakly acidic soil. When planting on soils with high acidity, it is necessary to carry out the liming procedure - add 250-500 g dolomite flour or 150-250 g of lime.
- Space. Keeping the distance between bushes prevents the rapid spread of the disease. Also, do not surround the bushes with a dense wall of other plants - the fungus often appears where there are obstacles to free air circulation.
- Good food. Roses need to be fed during the growing season, during and after flowering. It is necessary to provide plants with phosphorus, potassium, do not forget about fertilizing with micronutrients, but show reasonable moderation in nitrogen nutrition.
- "Crop rotation". It is advisable not to plant bushes in places where roses have already grown. Planting can be done only 5 years after growing other crops in this area.
Planting hygiene
In spring and autumn, it is necessary to carry out a number of sanitary measures aimed at reducing the risk of disease in roses.
- It is recommended to remove dry and damaged branches twice a year - when preparing bushes for wintering and after releasing roses from shelters in spring. If necessary, thinning pruning of the crown should also be done.
- In the fall, before placing the roses under cover, you need to clear the bushes of the remaining deciduous canopy.
- Since the spores of many fungi, including the causative agent of black spot, winter in the ground, on the eve of the shelter of the bushes and immediately after removing the protection in spring, the soil under the roses should be treated with a 0.01% solution of copper sulfate. It is recommended to alternate this remedy with a solution of ferrous sulfate.
- In the fall, you can also process the bushes with Bordeaux liquid or a solution of copper sulfate at a concentration of 3%.
- In the spring, it is worth to carry out a single spraying of roses with the preparations "Skor", "Profit", "Ridomil Gold" or "Strobi" during the period when the leaves appear. An alternative to this can be two sprays with biological agents, for example, with the "Fitosporin-M" preparation, performed with a week break.
- Throughout the season, it is necessary to remove weeds from the flower garden that thicken the planting.
On a note!
Bushes processing
If spring or summer turned out to be rainy and warm, you should insure yourself by taking additional measures against fungal diseases. It is recommended to carry out regular weekly treatments throughout the season:
- Infusion of tobacco. A bucket of water requires 500 g of dried and finely chopped tobacco leaves. Raw materials are poured with boiling water and left for 5 days. Strain the infusion before use.
- Garlic infusion. Take 200 g of chopped heads of garlic and pour in a liter warm water... After 5 days of infusion, the solution is filtered and 1/2 cup is added to a bucket of water.
- Wood ash. Directly during the rainy season, ash should be scattered into trunk circle rose bushes.
Resistant varieties
The smallest resistance to black spot is shown by varieties of such groups as tea, polyanthus and climbing roses... Planting them should be avoided if conditions are favorable for fungal growth. And the most resistant to spotting are varieties of roses with glossy leaves - their dense skin is too tough for the fungus.
Among the most resistant varieties are:
- "Grande Amore";
- "Baronesse";
- "Quadra";
- "La Perla";
- Leonardo de Vinci;
- "Memoire";
- Sebastian Kneipp;
- "Nostalgie";
- "Resonanz".
The most important thing in the fight against black spot is to provide roses with good care, since the fungus primarily attacks weak and emaciated plants. If, for some reason, roses are at risk, you should, without waiting for the appearance of diseases, take measures to restore their resistance to unfavorable factors... To do this, a special feeding regime is introduced (enhanced potassium nutrition), the bushes are watered with growth stimulants and drugs are used to strengthen the immunity of roses.
Often weakened or improperly planted plants suffer... In addition, neglect of caregivers will inevitably lead to disease and developmental problems.
For good growth, beautiful flowering, roses need constant attention from the gardener. Preventive examinations, the ability to immediately identify the first warning signs makes it possible to quickly prevent almost any ailment.
Quite often, the "queen of the flower garden" is sick because of:
- weather conditions (for example, high humidity or prolonged heat);
- poor lighting, insufficient air access;
- tightness in the rose garden;
- mechanical damage to stems, root collar.
The greatest damage is caused by infectious diseases, the causative agents of which are fungi, viruses, and also bacteria. But there are also functional diseases: they appear when there is a lack of any element in the soil.
What do roses hurt?
Powdery mildew
In summer, roses often have mealy spots of a whitish-gray bloom, which later acquire a grayish-brown color. Buds and shoots die off, leaves curl. This is how powdery mildew manifests itself: its pathogen is Sphaerotheca pannosa... The fungus hibernates on stems and plant debris. The appearance of plaque is a sure sign that the flower is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, but is deficient in potassium.
In addition, it is not recommended to carry out sprinkling irrigation in the evening: such procedures are more useful in the morning or afternoon. Bushes planted in a dense pattern, and even in a poorly lit place, are more susceptible to attacks by pathogens. Powdery mildew is easier to prevent, because then you will have to fight it for several seasons.
So what to do:
- in order to prevent the rose garden, including the ground around, is pollinated with ash, and also sprayed once a week with infusion of mullein in the usual proportion of 1:10;
- affected branches, buds are cut to a healthy place and burned. Three times every ten days, plantings, the soil are treated with Bordeaux liquid (usually 1%);
- from systemic fungicides for spraying are suitable Topaz, Skor, Vectra.
Gray rot
Fungus spores Botrytis cinerea suppress the growth point of young shoots, affect the buds and buds, which rot without even opening. On the petals, you can see characteristic brown sores, the leaves turn yellow. Damp weather encourages the development of a gray, fluffy bloom on the stems.
The fungus is activated by thickened plantings, high humidity, and also due to a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. Multi-petal varieties, mainly white, cream, yellow in color, are strongly affected by gray rot.
What to do:
- a pink solution of potassium permanganate is the best prophylactic agent: it can be sprayed or watered with bushes;
- cut out infected parts and remove from the site;
- try to create the maximum possible dryness in the rose garden, feed with phosphorus and calcium 2: 1;
- effective spraying with drugs Vectra, Fundazol, iron vitriol.
Black spot
Fungus infestation Marssonina rosae occurs in late spring, and the first symptoms appear only closer to August. Brown or black spots form on the leaves, they quickly increase, growing over the surface. A weakened bush sheds foliage, blooms very poorly. Black spot begins to progress with increased humidity.
It is quite difficult to get rid of the disease, since the fungus is perfectly preserved on fallen leaves. Therefore, the intense spring pruning, cleaning up last year's plant residues and mulching are extraordinary treatments. By the way, yellow varieties are more prone to black spotting.
Control methods:
- be sure to cut off diseased leaves;
- v sunny weather the bushes are poured with a soda solution (half a glass for 3.5 liters of clean water);
- next folk way- dilute a glass of milk in 12 liters of water and give the "victims" a shower;
- processing plantings Tsinebom, Benlatom, Topaz, Skorom, Fundazol... Bordeaux liquid can also help, as does copper sulfate.
Rust
A particularly strong rust fungus of the genus Phragmidium repaired, park varieties, rose hips are affected. In spring, bright red pustules with spores appear on the root collar, shoots, at the bottom of the leaf blade. Already in July they turn black, foliage falls off, shoots are deformed and dry up. Dealing with rust is very difficult, especially during rainy summers. If a rose is badly damaged, it cannot be treated: such specimens are destroyed.
Treatment methods:
- for prevention, foliar dressing is done with an extract of superphosphate (0.3%), potassium nitrate (0.3%);
- the affected parts must be cut out, the fallen remains must be raked up and burned. After each trimming, the tool is processed in denatured alcohol;
- planting, the ground around is sprayed with copper-containing preparations, as well as Topaz, Profit.
Viral mosaic
Typical signs of a viral mosaic are the appearance of yellow streaks on the leaf blades. In addition to the marbled pattern, the leaves often become wrinkled, very narrow, and curly. Plants weaken, their growth slows down, they quickly die. The spread of the viral mosaic is often caused by aphids, ticks, as well as grafting roses.
The disease is easily transmitted through instruments, hands, gloves. Sick specimens are not used for reproduction. Some gardeners are in no hurry to dig out diseased bushes, if they are still quite strong: they are fed with fertilizers with a full composition of trace elements. Overly affected plants are, of course, destroyed.
Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew in the photo
With a fungal disease of roses, powdery mildew appears on young leaves, shoots and buds powdery bloom; there is a thickening and curvature of them.
As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on roses manifests itself as a whitish bloom, which represents the mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:
Powdery mildew on roses 
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish bloom (photo)
The causative agent of the disease in the form of mycelium in the kidneys overwinters. The development of the disease is facilitated by excessive nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold damp soils.
The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high humidity. A sharp change in temperature, drafts, drying out of the earth and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants, reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially strongly affected.
Resistant to powdery mildew are varieties of roses that have dense glossy leaves like "Gloria Day".
To treat powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with Topaz, Purest flowers, Fundazol or Skorom. At temperatures above 22 ° C, spraying with "Gray colloid" or "Tiovit Jet" is possible. If necessary, to combat this disease of roses, the treatments are repeated as young growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.
Rust of roses in the photo
With this disease of roses in flowers, the affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened. In spring, orange dust appears on the stems at the opening buds and at the root collar. These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. The disease develops more intensely in years with warm and humid springs.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients in a plant, but also strongly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and impair metabolism.
In case of rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer forms small, red-yellow pads of summer spores, which can give several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads.
Look at the photo - if this rose disease strongly affected the plant, the leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely:
Affected parts of rose shoots (photo) 
In case of rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer forms small, red-yellow pads of summer spores (photo)
The spread of spores of a rust fungus occurs with the flow of air, water, and planting material.
To protect roses from this disease, unilateral nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring(before bud break) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
For the treatment of rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and timely cut off the shoots affected by the stem form of rust, from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or its substitutes ("Oxyhom", "Abiga-Peak", "Hom", " Copper oxychloride "," Ordan ").
Rose leaf disease black spot in the photo
Disease of roses black spot is also called marsonina after the name of the fungus - the causative agent of the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves different sizes... Leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots can also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes start to grow again, as a result of which they greatly weaken and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus, the causative agent of the disease of roses, develops spotting, forming radiantly growing strands.
As you can see in the photo, with this disease of roses, the radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:
With this disease of roses, the radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo) 
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of the disease of roses, spotting (photo)
This disease of rose leaves is more pronounced with a thickened planting, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.
Measures to combat this disease include:
- correct agricultural techniques that increase the resistance of plants;
- careful collection and in the fall of affected leaves and burning them;
- spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used to combat rust.
- for the treatment of this disease of roses, it is recommended to use a special preparation (Skor to protect roses) for spraying, which is a systemic fungicide of prophylactic and curative action.
Treatments must be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or abundant growth.
These photos show how to treat black spot rose disease:
Disease bacterial cancer roses in the photo
With bacterial cancer of roses, growths of various sizes are formed on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often they reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven tuberous surface. They consist of soft tissue, first white, then brown and in the soil are decomposed by bacteria.
There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year. Less commonly affected aerial part- trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here, lumpy nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
The cancer-causing bacteria infect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilization, root damage, and an alkaline reaction of the soil.
When transplanting a plant with an affected root collar, it is necessary to destroy, and cut off the growths on the lateral roots. To treat this disease of roses, after pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in liquid mixture clay with sand. Avoid excessive manure fertilization, destroy insects that damage the roots, do not dig up the soil near the bushes.
Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:
Fungal disease burns of the branches of roses in the photo
Branch burn is a fungal disease in which, on the branches, first reddish spots appear, later darkening in the middle; the reddish-brown edging persists for a rather long time. Growing up, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue build-up may form. Diseased branches usually dry out at the end of summer.
Excess moisture under the winter shelter contributes to the development of the "burn".
To avoid severe damage to roses, you should remove the shelter earlier in the spring. Sick and frozen branches must be cut and burned in a timely manner.
As shown in the photo, when treating this disease of roses, plants need to be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:
Correct agricultural technology (timely fertilization, loosening and watering) helps to reduce the harmfulness of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good maturation of wood until the end of the growing season of plants.
For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered, if possible, in dry weather, so that high humidity is not created under the shelter. Before sheltering, unripe shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or 1.5% ferrous sulfate solution.
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is ubiquitous. Roses are struck by a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, and nuts.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious desiccation. In some years, it leads not only to the drying out of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. This disease is especially susceptible to bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely trimming, etc.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles on the dying selected sites bark. Over the entire area of the affected bark, large, well-visible orange-red pycnidial tubercles of the fungus appear, protruding from under the skin.
Look at the photo - with this disease of roses, cracks form on the border of the affected and healthy tissue:
The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and blood vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up - downward, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.
The disease with cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.
Also regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilization, soil cultivation, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease with the capture of up to 5 cm of a healthy part of the branch.
Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the "dormant" buds and 3% Bordeaux liquid on a green cone to some extent inhibits the spread and development of the disease.
Carrying out pruning of bushes in optimal terms protects roses from cytosporosis.
Gray rot on roses (photo)
Mainly buds with pedicels, tops of young stems and leaves suffer from gray rot of roses (botrytis) - in damp weather they are covered with a gray fluffy bloom.
First of all, this disease garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often - with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by Botrytis do not open, they rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.
The foci of infection remain in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in spring. Then the spores of the fungi are carried by insects and the wind. Therefore, an undesirable "neighbor" for roses is, for example, garden strawberry, very susceptible to Botrytis.
Gray rot appears on roses with thickened plantings, or if the rose garden is irrigated late in the evening, when the leaves of the roses do not have time to dry before nightfall.
How to deal with gray mold of roses on a personal plot? Measures for the control and prevention of this disease of roses are the same as against other fungal diseases.
Interesting facts about rose diseases
Speaking about diseases of roses, there are several interesting facts:
- You can determine how resistant the roses are to diseases by the leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a waxy bloom, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents the penetration of infection into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
- There are no varieties that are absolutely resistant to disease. Even those varieties that are marked "disease-resistant" in the catalogs lose this valuable quality in 5-6 years, as diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can be found only in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms and on the streets of cities.
- Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in wet weather, and given that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
- Foliage that does not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor black spotting. Powdery mildew, and from pests - spider mite on the contrary, they like dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
- Florists can, to some extent, influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their appearance. Strong, well-groomed plants are less likely to get sick less often and more intensely resist colonization by pests.
Watch the video "Diseases of roses", which shows all the main diseases of plants and methods of dealing with them:
How to treat roses for diseases: effective remedies
Without exception, all flower growers are interested in how to treat roses from diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.
"Alirin-B" - biological product based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources... Effective against powdery mildew of ornamental and other plants.
"Glyocladin"- an analogue of the well-known drug "Trichodermin". Effective against a wide range of fungal diseases such as fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, black leg and cabbage keel.
"Gamair"- a drug designed to protect against wide range bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spots, fire blight, bacterial cancer.
"Topaz"- systemic fungicide for the protection of ornamental, pome, stone, berry, vegetable crops and vines from powdery mildew. This preparation for the treatment of roses against diseases can be used as a protective, therapeutic and exterminating agent also against rust. The drug is available in the form of an emulsion concentrate.
As a destructive agent with a high degree of damage by powdery mildew, "Topaz" is used in increased concentrations (up to 10 ml), after 2 sprays with an interval of 7 days.
The drug provides reliable protection from powdery mildew even on a high infectious background. Topaz is non-phytotoxic and does not stain treated leaves and fruits. As a prophylactic agent, it reduces the number of treatments, as it lasts for 40 days. The drug meets modern safety requirements for humans and environment... It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of the preparation being washed off by rain.
In order to avoid the emergence of resistance of pathogens of powdery mildew, "Topaz" is recommended to alternate with contact copper-containing preparations and colloidal gray and not to use on the same culture more than 4 times per season.
"Topaz" compatible with most of the drugs used in gardens for diseases and pests. The exposure rate is 2-3 hours after spraying.
And how else to process roses from diseases and to prevent infections in the backyard?
"Pure color"- a new preparation for the protection of flowers and decorative crops from diseases (fungicide).
Method of application: the required rate of the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small volume of water. Then, with constant stirring, the volume of the working solution is brought to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. The deadline for the safe exit of people for manual work is after 7 days. The rate of action of the drug: 2 hours after treatment.
The period of protective action: with preventive treatments - 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.
The therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. It is not recommended for amateur gardeners to mix this drug with other remedies when spraying plants.
"Pure color" is an analogue of the drug "Raek".
Fundazol- systemic drug and disinfectant planting material to protect against a complex of diseases.
When using the drug, fill the container for etching the planting material with 1/3 of water, then add the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.
Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10:00) or in the evening (18-22 hours), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution is not subject to storage!
"Fast to protect roses" from black spot, ornamental and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a prophylactic and curative systemic fungicide. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.
Spray with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, evenly wetting the plants.
Working fluid consumption: on a rose - up to 1 liter per plant; on flower plants and ornamental shrubs- up to 10 liters per 100 m2.
Do not store the working solution! Release dates for Handicraft: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is impractical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure time: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. The cultures are tolerant to the drug. No resistance occurs. Low hazard for bees (class 3). Toxic to fish, do not enter water bodies.
"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) - one of the copper-containing preparations for the fight against diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.
When using the contents of the package (40 g), dilute with 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10:00) or in the evening (18-22 hours), evenly wetting the leaves. In the recommended doses, the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.
The drug is dangerous for bees and fish, do not carry out processing during flowering. Do not allow to enter bodies of water.
These photos show effective means for the treatment of rose diseases:
How to spray roses from diseases: the best drugs
Not sure how to spray roses from diseases to protect flowers? Then use the following drugs, considered one of the best.
"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing contact fungicide designed to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetables, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, vine and medicinal plants.
Apply the drug during the growing season by spraying plants.
A 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for processing 100 m2.
The contents of the bubble are preliminarily dissolved in 1 liter of water and, with thorough stirring, brought to 10 liters with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.
Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. Plants are treated by evenly covering the shoots, leaves and fruits with a working solution.
Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamel containers.
This preparation against rose diseases provides reliable protection of plants against diseases even in adverse weather conditions. The preparation contains an adhesive that allows the active substance "Abiga-Peak" to firmly adhere to the treated plant surface.
Very important! Abiga-Peak is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Convenient to use, non-toxic. The drug does not generate dust when preparing the working solution. Prepared, but due to weather conditions, not consumed solution can be stored for a long time.
"Abiga Peak" has a beneficial effect on the quality of the grown products. When applied, there is a good ripening of young shoots.
The best remedies for combating rose diseases are shown in the photo:
"Tiovit Jet"- means for combating diseases of flower and fruit crops.
Method of application: the rate of the drug, dissolve in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water to 10 liters. Treat with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.
"Tiovit" possesses good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic to birds, bees, fish.
The advantages of the drug are that it is simultaneously a fungicide, and an acaricide, and a trace element; provides reliable protection of plants for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.
"Colloidal sulfur" It is mainly used to control powdery mildew and various types of herbivorous mites on flower crops. It is effective only at air temperatures above +20 ... + 22 ° С, since sulfur vapors work.
Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the drug is first stirred in a small amount of warm water until a creamy state, and then water is added, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the drug the day before, 2-5 hours before processing).
The last processing time before harvest is 3 days.
The drug is not dangerous for humans and warm-blooded animals. Colloidal sulfur, as a rule, does not burn the leaves.
However, many gooseberry varieties shed their leaves after processing. Therefore, you should not use sulfur to control gooseberry powdery mildew and spray roses near this shrub.
Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for using a particular drug.