Soil for seedlings with your own hands is quite simple to make if you know in advance what kind of land is on the site. And studying the soil is not only useful, but also interesting, because it can be surprisingly different. First of all, gardeners should know two of its most important characteristics: acidity and structure. Then the nutritious soil for seedlings can be made quite easily with your own hands.
DIY seedling soil: a little theory and practice
Before getting acquainted with the features of preparing soil for seedlings of different vegetable crops, let's figure out the acidity and structure of the soil of your site.
Soil acidity
Soil in the garden
Soil acidity is easiest to determine with live indicators. We are talking about the weeds that are in every garden. Acidic soils are often occupied by woodlice, horse sorrel, heather, buttercup, plantain, field horsetail, green and sphagnum mosses. Where these plants grow, the soil is too acidic, and it is completely unsuitable for apricots, peaches, walnuts or dogwoods. These trees will not bear fruit well, often get sick and may even die.
On slightly acidic soils and soils with neutral acidity, they like to grow wheatgrass, nettles, coltsfoot, odorous chamomile, clover, shepherd's purse, sweet clover. These soils are suitable for most tree and shrub fruit crops.
On alkaline soils, poppies, field mustard, bindweed and white dope feel great, but lingonberries and rhododendrons will never take root in them.
Soil for indoor plants
Those who are going to start growing indoor plants on the windowsill should learn a few secrets about the acidity of the soil. When buying soil in a store, there are no problems, since it is already indicated on the package. Here you can also find recommendations on which species this substrate is intended for. Today, a universal soil is also sold, but it is far from suitable for all plants, despite the name.
Another thing is the land taken from the garden. Its acidity will have to be measured independently. For this purpose, there is a special device (pH meter), but it is expensive, so not every flower lover can afford it. In order not to spend extra money, you can use the old-fashioned method - to conduct the so-called vinegar test.
With the help of vinegar, our ancestors determined whether their soil was acidic or alkaline. To do this, a little soil was poured into the container and poured with vinegar. If violent bubbles appeared on the surface, then the soil is alkaline. You can also grow indoor plants in it, but at first it was calcined in the old fashioned way over a fire or in an oven so that the earth got rid of harmful microorganisms and pests. But it is better to spill it with EM preparations or Fitosporin-M against fungi, and against pests - with Fitoverm.
There is an alternative way - freezing. It is done in a regular freezer. The earth is poured into a dense plastic bag, closed tightly and sent into the cold. This is a kind of imitation of winter. It is better to keep the prepared soil mixture in the cold than in an apartment, also because it is hot at home and the soil can dry out.
Soil structure
Just like acidity, soil structure also varies. Each natural soil or artificial substrate has its own color, size and texture of the components. For example, bark is used for orchids. In nature, these beauties grow directly on the bark of a tree, and its trunk serves as a support for them. The structure of this soil is very loose so that the roots of the plants can breathe.
Sandy soil is light as dust, it simply crumbles. It is also easy for the roots to breathe in it, but there is nothing to eat - all the nutrients are washed out.
Chernozem is the soil on which many plants grow beautifully. It contains clay particles and a sufficient amount of sand. The roots in such soil breathe and receive good nutrition.
Clay is a super heavy structure that is very difficult for plants to live in. Although there is plenty of food in it, breathing of the roots is impossible. Only those plants that do not need to breathe with roots grow in clay.
Forest soil - crumbly, light, with an admixture of dry needles or foliage residues. Plants feel great in it. That is why the taste of wild berries is much richer than that of many garden berries.
Peat is an airy and crumbly soil. Respiration of the root system in it is easy, but it is empty and does not provide the plant with nutrients. Peat is more suitable for transportation and sale than for growing. Therefore, a new flower purchased from a store must be transplanted into a more nutritious mixture.
Tip: for growing any plants (both garden and indoor), it is better to mix soils of different structures. Thus, all the necessary conditions for growth, respiration and nutrition are provided.
How to make earth with your own hands:
- The easiest way is to take garden soil, mature compost and coarse sand in equal proportions. If the soil in the garden is acidic, be sure to add wood ash or ground eggshell to it. The usual rate is 1 glass per bucket of earth;
- If the soil on the site is too dense, clayey, and there is no mature compost at hand, then purchased peat or coconut substrate ("Orechnin" and the like) can be used to loosen the substrate. We also prepare a mixture of garden soil, peat and coarse sand in equal parts;
- It is not necessary to put sand into the sandy soil from the site, but clay should be added. Take half of it, then add compost;
- For those who have a dacha on peatlands, compost, clay and sand should be added to the ground from the site in the same proportions. If necessary, deacidify the substrate with wood ash, dolomite flour or ground eggshells.
In all of the above mixtures, sand can be replaced with vermiculite or perlite - they not only improve air access to the roots, but also absorb excess moisture, gradually giving it back if necessary.
Mature garden compost can be replaced with vermicompost or humus. Although the first of them is expensive, there may be helminths in the manure. Therefore, we prefer compost, and for seedlings we lower 1 bucket into the underground since autumn - soil microbes hibernate there perfectly. When preparing soil for seedlings with your own hands, all ingredients should be damp (but not wet).
Features of preparing soil for seedlings of various vegetable crops
We have prepared the basis for the seedling soil. But for every vegetable crop, additives are important. And this is understandable, some plants grow well in slightly alkaline soil, while others prefer neutral ones. Someone needs fresh manure, while others from an excess of nitrogen will stop blooming and bearing fruit. So let's move on to the nuances:
- Pumpkin seeds (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin) need to grow a large green mass before fruiting, so mullein or any other unripe manure can be added to the soil. And in order to smooth out the acidity of unripe organic matter, it is extremely necessary to add deoxidizers (wood ash, dolomite flour or ground eggshell);
- Soil for tomato seedlings is the easiest to prepare with your own hands; no special additives are required for this culture. And to avoid the appearance of a black leg (the fungus loves an acidic environment), you can throw a few scales of onion or garlic husks at the bottom of the planting cup. Sphagnum moss also protects seedlings well from fusarium;
- Peppers are potassium responsive. Therefore, for seedlings of peppers in the soil prepared with your own hands, you need to add a double portion of ash, or prepare dried banana peels, and add ground to the substrate;
- Cabbage also loves potassium and grows best in a neutral environment, besides, strong alkalization of the soil will save it from such a dangerous disease as keel. So a double dose of ash is best for her. If there is no ash on hand, then generously sprinkle the ground banana peels with shells.
- It is advisable to add ash to the soil for strawberries prepared by hand, and if possible, increase the dose of compost - the berries will not only be large, but also fragrant.
A good harvest always means several things. All of them are important: the quality of the seeds, their proper preparation for sowing, the choice of variety, conditions and care. But there is one parameter, the influence of which is most important. This is the qualitative composition of the soil in which the seedlings are grown. The yield of all seedlings (and in our climate most vegetables are grown through seedlings) depends to a large extent on a properly composed seedling soil.
There is no one universal soil that meets the needs of all plants. Each garden crop requires an individual approach. Any plant has its own requirements for the soil mixture. But there are general rules that allow you to create a base soil in order to then optimize it for a particular crop with minimal effort.
Initial requirements for seedling soil
Depending on the type of plants that are grown as seedlings, the soil mixture can be composed of different components mixed in certain proportions. But in all cases, it is necessary to comply with the initial requirements for seedling substrates.
- Fertility... The soil must contain in sufficient quantities all the substances necessary for the sprouts to develop quickly and successfully.
- Nutritional value... This means that the content of all components is balanced, organic elements are present in the soil and there is a mineral component, moreover, in the form and compounds available to plants.
Soil components
In the land intended for sowing seeds, components of organic and inorganic origin must be present.
Organic ingredients:
- soil - sod, leaf, garden;
- vegetable compost;
- rotted cattle manure;
- peat - lowland and high-moor;
- sphagnum, coconut fiber, seed husks, bark, sawdust;
- wood ash.
Peat is one of the popular components of seedling soil mixtures.
It is not necessary that absolutely all of the components from the list are present in the soil, but most are. It is better to mix the soil from three different soils: garden soil, which can be taken directly from the ridge (unless, of course, sick or insect-affected plants grew there); leafy (from leaves rotted with the ground); turf (which is obtained by cutting turf). Soil is the basic element of the seedling substrate.
Compost - rotten plants - must be mixed with rotted manure, which is called humus. This is the supplier of the necessary substances.
Advice! Do not sow vegetable seeds in humus, compost, or low moor peat. Too much organic matter will cause the sprouts to overgrow the leaf mass to the detriment of root formation. As a result, the seedlings will not take root well when they are planted in a garden bed or in a greenhouse soil.
Peat will definitely be needed, it is he who makes the soil fertile. The lowland contains about 70% organic matter, the horse, consisting of sphagnum, makes the structure of the soil loose.
Peat is found in most seedling soil mixtures. It is obtained from the swamps. This is not to say that it is a non-renewable resource. From decaying organic components under the influence of natural processes, it is formed in swamps, but very slowly - over thousands of years. In addition, peat is a part of the natural ecosystem - if it is completely removed from the bogs, or at least a serious deficit is created, the ecological balance will be upset.
This is why scientists have been trying over the past decades to find a replacement for peat. And finally they found it. More and more producers of seedling soil mixtures are switching over to the use today.
Benefits of coconut fiber.
- It is 100% organic without chemical impurities.
- They know how to absorb and retain water, working like a sponge, retaining moisture for plants and not removing nutrients from the soil.
- The layer of soil in the pot or container with the substrate containing the coconut fiber remains dry, which prevents the growth of soil fungi.
- Coconut fiber has a pH level of about 6, so it normalizes the overall acidity of the entire substrate.
- The fiber contains phosphorus, potassium, as well as other substances necessary for plants in significant quantities.
Coconut fiber prices
coconut fiber
Also, sunflower seed husks, tree bark, rotted sawdust, dry moss and other rippers are used to loosen the soil. Wood ash is added to normalize soil acidity.
Advice! Do not add more nutrients to the soil - an abundance of fertilizing is appropriate during the growing season, the seeds inside which the plant embryo have a sufficient supply of substances to form and release a full-fledged sprout. Enhanced nutrition is not required for the seed.
Inorganic components:
- river (in extreme cases, quarry) sand;
- perlite;
- vermiculite;
- expanded clay;
- mineral supplements.
Advice! Do not grind the components of the soil mixture too much and do not sift the mixture through a sieve with small cells - the fine-grained substrate will sour and "float" after each watering.
It is an excellent component of seedling potting soil. This substance has a number of significant advantages.
- Sterility - spores of fungal diseases and pathogens of infectious diseases do not settle in perlite.
- The absence of insects - they simply do not start in the substance.
- Absence of weed seeds - they do not take root and do not germinate in a soil mixture with perlite.
- Stored in original condition for a long time - perlite does not decay.
- Light weight - perlite is very light.
Vermiculite- a porous, environmentally friendly material that contains a record amount of magnesium, potassium and calcium necessary for sprouts already in the early stages of life.
Drains the soil, acting as an organic leavening agent and helping to improve the structure and water holding capacity of the soil.
- a polymer compound, which, due to its properties, also serves to maintain a high moisture capacity in the soil.
Advice! To simplify the watering procedure and maintain the required moisture content, add hydrogel to the prepared soil before sowing.
Price for hydrogel
hydrogel
In addition to the mandatory components, the following elements are also included in the soil mixture:
- ash;
- urea;
- potassium sulfate;
- potassium chloride and sulfate;
- ammonium nitrate;
- superphosphate.
What should not be in the soil
This small but important point is often overlooked. Amateur gardeners neglect it, as a result, all efforts to draw up the correct soil are wasted.
The following components should not get into the soil mixture:
- clay;
- fresh manure;
- not rotted plant residues;
- tea leaves, coffee grounds and other similar waste;
- salty sea sand.
Clay will make the soil heavy, impermeable to moisture and air, dense. Not rotted organic matter and coffee / tea will cause decay processes - they can begin to decompose, increasing the temperature of the substrate, which will be detrimental to many seeds and seedlings. Also, the decomposition of organic matter will entail the release of nitrogen, which will evaporate, depleting the substrate.
Soil for various crops
The table below shows the soil composition for each vegetable crop of the most commonly grown.
Table. The composition of the soil mixture for common vegetable crops.
| The culture | Components of the soil mixture and their proportions |
|---|---|
| About 2 kg of garden soil, 1 - humus, ½ kg of sawdust (rotted), fine-grained tree bark or coconut fiber. For 6 kg of finished substrate - 40 g of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea. |
| 5 kg of turf soil, 5 kg of high peat, 2.5 kg of sand, 2 kg of humus, 1/4 kg of lime, 1/2 kg of ash or dolomite flour. |
| 6 kg of peat or 3 kg of leaf soil and coconut fiber, 2 kg of sod soil, 1 kg of humus, 1 kg of sand, ¼ kg of lime. |
| 4 kg of peat, 2 kg of sod soil, 1 kg of rotted sawdust or coconut fiber, 1 kg of humus. |
| 2 kg of peat, 2 kg of sod soil, 2 kg of humus, 1 kg of coconut fiber or rotted sawdust, 1 kg of sand. For 6 liters of the mixture - 40 g of ash and 15 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. |
| 8 kg of peat, 2 kg of sod land, 1 kg of river sand, mullein or humus, or 2 kg of vegetable compost, 1 kg of sawdust or coconut substrate. For 6 kg of the mixture - 10 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride, 20 g of superphosphate and 45 g of ash. |
| 2 kg of leafy soil, 2 kg of humus, 2 kg of peat or coconut substrate, 1 kg of sand. For 6 kg of the mixture - 50 g of ash, 15 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate. |
How to prepare a soil mixture
In the process of preparing the soil for sowing seedlings, it is recommended to follow the instructions and follow the step-by-step recommendations. It is necessary to start the procurement of components in the fall. They are also mixed in the fall. Then the finished soil is sent for freezing, which will serve as additional sterilization.
Important! Do not add mineral nutrients during the mixing stage. Nutrient additives are introduced into the soil in spring, after the main sterilization, before planting seeds, in the form of solutions.
Step-by-step instructions for preparing soil
Step 1. Prepare all the necessary ingredients that you plan to add to the substrate. They must be dry and in separate containers.
Step 2. Spread an oilcloth or other suitable bedding on the floor in the utility room, or use a large container (basin, trough, tray, pallet) in which you will mix the soil components.
Step 3. Take a measuring container (glass, mug, etc.) or prepare the balance. Prepare your tools - a shovel, small rakes - and put on gloves.
Step 4. Measure out the required amount of necessary components, place in a container or pour on an oilcloth, mix thoroughly.
Step 5. Pour the finished substrate into small bags (ideally no more than 20 liters). If the bags are plastic bags, punch a few small holes at the top to allow the soil to "breathe".
Step 6. Place bags of soil in a shed, utility room, where temperatures will be below freezing in winter.
If we talk about the middle lane, then watermelons here (as well as some other crops - for example, melon) are preferable to grow through seedlings. In reality, there is nothing complicated in this process, the main thing is to know and how to do it.
Decontamination procedure
Harmful microorganisms contained in garden, leaf, turf, peat, sand, humus and other essential components of the seedling substrate can harm the seeds, introducing infection and reducing their germination. To prevent this from happening, the substrate must be disinfected. This is a very important procedure and should not be neglected if you want strong, healthy seedlings and fruitful plants.
There are four ways to disinfect a substrate:
- freezing;
- steaming;
- calcination;
- etching.
You can limit yourself to one way, but it is better to combine any of the first three, followed by etching.
Important! Freezing is carried out during the winter. All other methods begin to be used in January - February, when it is time to prepare the soil for sowing.
Freezing
The method of disinfection by freezing is that the bag with soil is left in a room where subzero temperatures are maintained in winter. If there is no such room, closer to spring the soil is taken out into frost and left for a week at a temperature of about -10 ° C ... 15 ° C. Then the frozen soil is returned to the heat and allowed to thaw for a week. During this time, all the germs of weeds and pests that were not destroyed by the first freezing will "wake up" in it. After that, the soil is again sent to the frost. And so two or three times.
The seedling develops and builds up the vegetative mass in a limited volume of the substrate. And this volume should satisfy the needs of plants for nutrients and provide normal conditions for root growth.
Among gardeners, the concept of "universal soil composition" is widespread. Such versatility is conditional, since each plant, even of closely related ones, has specific requirements for the composition and parameters of the soil mixture.
To give the soil the desired properties, various components are added to it in a certain proportion. The components are divided into organic and mineral. The basis is, of course, soil: turf or garden.
The priority is sod land, since it does not contain spores of fungal diseases and toxins. Garden land requires thorough decontamination. The soil cannot be completely replaced with compost or humus. In conditions of excess nitrogen, the seedlings will stretch and form a weak root system.
Below are the components that are used to prepare soil for seedlings.
| Organic: | Mineral: |
| leafy ground (rotted leaves from the forest) | river sand (not fine construction sand!) |
| compost | perlite |
| humus | vermiculite |
| low-lying peat (preferably highly decomposed) | expanded clay |
| sphagnum moss | mineral wool |
| sunflower seed husk | coconut fiber |
| sawdust | hydrogel |
| eggshell | foam crumbs |
| rice husk | wood ash |
Organic components are a source of nutrients, and minerals are used to improve structure, breathability and moisture capacity. Each substance has its own specific properties that determine its advantages and disadvantages.
On a note! The sand is washed several times before use to remove iron and manganese.
Ready-made soil mixtures are filled with complex fertilizers and, with increased acidity, neutralized with dolomite flour, chalk or lime.
Quality soil parameters
To determine how the finished soil is suitable for growing seedlings, it is assessed according to the following parameters:
- nutrient content;
- breathability (light and loose structure);
- moisture content (the ability to absorb and retain water);
- the reaction of the soil solution, pH (checked with a special device or a litmus strip, must be neutral or slightly acidic);
- phytosanitary condition (absence of pathogens and weed seeds, the presence of beneficial microflora).
The soil mixture should not contain toxins, heavy metal ions and radionuclides, therefore organic components are taken in ecologically clean areas. The addition of fresh organic matter (manure, dry leaves, straw) is not allowed, since the active decay process leads to an increase in the temperature in the soil. Overheating is a strong stress on the roots.
The soil mixture should not be perceived as a disinfected stable substrate. It is a living, dynamic system in which complex biochemical processes take place with the participation of beneficial microorganisms. In sterile soil, the normal development of seedlings is impossible.
Compositions of soil mixtures depending on the culture
The composition of the soil is determined by the biological and physiological characteristics of the culture. It is prepared according to an individual recipe. This does not mean that seedlings will die on the "universal" soil. But they will develop worse and will not realize their potential yield.
We have collected proven potting recipes based on years of experience in gardening practitioners and scientific research. The table below can be printed out and used as a reminder.
| The culture | The composition of the potting soil | Additives (based on 10 liters of mixture) |
| Tomato | 1. Sod land + peat + humus (1: 2: 1) | 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 0.5 l of wood ash |
| 2. Sod land + compost + sand (1: 1: 1) | 10 g ammonium nitrate, 20 g potassium salt and 50 g superphosphate | |
| 3. Leafy earth + humus + peat + coconut fiber (1: 1: 1: 1) | 1 tsp urea, 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 150 - 200 ml of wood ash | |
| Cucumber | 1. Peat + humus + rotted sawdust (2: 2: 1) | 100 ml of wood ash and 1 tsp each. urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate |
| 2. Sod land + leaf land + compost + vermiculite (3: 3: 3: 1) | ||
| Pepper | 1. Sod land + peat + sand (1: 2: 1) | 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of potassium sulfate, 60 g of superphosphate |
| 2. Sod earth + humus + perlite (1: 2: 1/2) | ||
| Eggplant | 1. Sod land + humus + peat (3: 5: 2) | 100 ml wood ash |
| 2. Compost + leaf soil + peat + rotted sawdust (1: 1: 1: 1/2) | ||
| Cabbage | 1. Peat + humus + sawdust (3: 1: 1) | 10 g of ammonium nitrate, fluff lime (500 g per 1 sq.) |
| 2. Sod land + compost + sand (1: 1: 1/2) | fluff lime (for the prevention of black leg and keel damage) | |
| 3. Sod land + ash + sand (5: 1: 1/4) | fluff lime (added in the same amount as sand) | |
| Garden strawberry | 1. Leafy soil + compost + wood ash (3: 3: 1/2) | |
| 2. Peat + sand + vermiculite (3: 3: 4) | ||
| Annual flowers | 1. Sod land + sand + peat (3: 1: 1) | 1 tbsp. eggshells and 50 g of charcoal |
| 2. Peat + compost + turf + sand (3: 2: 2: 1) | ||
| Petunia | Peat (sifted) + turf (sifted) + sand (vermiculite) + coconut fiber (2: 1: 1: 1/2) | |
| Marigold | Humus + peat + sand (1: 1: 1) |
To prepare the mixture, the components are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous substrate. For seedlings of vegetable crops, it is not recommended to sift the soil to a fine fraction.
Rules for the preparation of soil before sowing seeds
In the fall, experienced gardeners recommend stocking up on organic ingredients and sand in the right amount. When stored in a heated room, the soil dries up, but low temperatures are not harmful to it. Before the start of the seedling season, the material is brought into a warm room and after 4 days they begin to prepare it.
The finished soil mixture is disinfected in 4 ways.
Freezing
Long-term, from 30 days, exposure to temperatures below minus 20 degrees is effective against fungal diseases and wintering stages of pests. The soil is protected from precipitation and is not covered by snow. This method is used in the northern regions.
Steaming
Steam treatment can be done in 2 ways:
- place the mixture in a bag on a wire rack over a container of boiling water and process for an hour;
- pour the soil into a basin in the holes and spill with boiling water.
After finishing the treatment, the soil is dried by sprinkling it in a thin layer on newsprint.
Calcination
Damp soil is scattered on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm and placed in the oven for half an hour. Processing temperature - 60 degrees. The method is considered aggressive, although grandmothers still only recognize it.
Etching
Potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 liters of water) or a solution of biofungicides is used as a disinfectant. A gentle method - watering with biological products (Fitosporin, Baikal EM-1, Trichodermin, etc.). They contain beneficial microflora that suppresses the development of pathogens. They can also be used after calcining and steaming to restore beneficial microflora.
How to choose a ready-made primer in a store?
With all the advantages of a prepared potting mix, many gardeners prefer to buy ready-made soil for seedlings. It's easier. And one cannot but agree with this. But in order to also get decent seedlings, you need to be able to distinguish a multicomponent mixture filled with a complex of fertilizers from sour peat.
Before making a purchase, study the composition of the mixture and the level of acidity. The composition should contain 2 or more organic components and one mineral (sand, vermiculite or perlite), as well as trace elements and complex fertilizers. Conscientious manufacturers add dolomite flour, ground limestone or chalk to normalize acidity.
You can go the hard way: buy a universal soil for seedlings and improve it yourself, depending on the requirements of the culture.
To improve the structure, add vermiculite or river sand, to increase the moisture capacity, add a little hydrogel, neutralize it with wood ash or chalk, and increase the nutritional value with complex fertilizers.
One of the most important stages in the annual work of the gardener is soil preparation for planting seedlings... How to properly prepare the soil, what components and in what proportions to mix - about this in our today's article on the site for.
To obtain strong and healthy seedlings, a properly prepared soil mixture is required. What does it mean? The substrate should be light, homogeneous, air and moisture permeable, nutritious and non-acidic. Many gardeners have learned how to create the right soil. We will share with you a few proven recipes today.
Preparing the soil for seedlings - farming methods
1. Direct food. Growing plants on mineral fertilizers gives a quick result, but the taste of such vegetables and their usefulness become lower. Ions of minerals are instantly absorbed by the strings of roots, but do not protect plants from diseases. In the future, it is necessary to repeatedly apply pesticides.
2. Intermediary nutrition. Through bacteria and fungi, which transform the elements into those that are easy for plants to assimilate. This natural farming does not require pesticides. Plants do not get sick, as fungi and bacteria release substances that prevent disease.
3. Adjacent food. Both elements of direct nutrition (mineral fertilizers) and intermediary nutrition (through living organisms) are used.
Mineral fertilizers do not protect seedlings from diseases Soil preparation for seedlings - method 1
If you want a truly healthy and tasty vegetable crop, use this recipe for preparing soil for growing seedlings. It is created on the principle of natural farming, without the use of fast-digesting nutritional supplements.
Take fine-grained soil from the garden, which contains the fungi and bacteria necessary for the processing of nutrients. Preparation for sowing seeds implies sifting it.
Garden soil contains beneficial bacteria and fungi To increase the share of nutrients, add a fifth of vermicompost to the soil. This is a waste of the vital activity of worms, valuable for their composition. In the process of passing through the digestive tract of the worm, the soil is treated with bacteria, which subsequently protect the plants from diseases.
Add deciduous or herbal ash to the mix. You can burn old hay or grass cuttings. For a bucket of soil - half a glass of ash. It contains all the nutrients that were in plants. Especially a wide variety of valuable substances in herbs.
For growing seedlings when preparing the soil, it is useful to add ash Soil preparation for seedlings - method 2
The second recipe proposed by gardeners is based on the principle of mixed farming. In other words, it combines direct nutrition and mediation. In this case, many components are involved in creating soil for seedlings. The same mixture can be prepared for all crops.
High-quality nutrition for young plants will be provided by:
Sopravel - 0.5 l;
biohumus - 0.5 l;
bionex - a handful;
farmed chicken manure - a handful;
fermented bran - a handful;
liquid bio-cocktail made from mineral fertilizers (Ecoperin, NV, Vostok, etc.).
The soil for seedlings should be loose and nutritious. First of all, we mix all the dry ingredients, carefully rubbing the soil in our hands. Next, we moisten while preserving the lumpy structure. To do this, you need not pour, but spray the composition onto the soil, stirring in your hands. To prepare the solution, you cannot use chlorinated water - it is better to take rain, thawed or settled water.
The ideal moisture content that must be achieved when preparing the soil for planting seedlings is determined as follows: when compressed, a lump should form, which easily disintegrates when moving.
Place the moistened nutrient mixture in a dark bag and tie tightly. You should wait 2 weeks minimum for soil preparation, maximum 2-3 months.
It takes at least 2 weeks to prepare the soil for planting seedlings. Soil preparation for seedlings - method 3
Consider another recipe for preparing soil for seedlings from experienced summer residents. In this case, take peat or old humus (at least 2 years), dried sod land in a state of small lumps and coconut chips. All in the same quantity.
To disinfect the earth, you can use the method of etching in the oven or watering with a solution of potassium permanganate. But in this case, the result will be dead land. It is better to use biological products: "Fitosporin", "Baikal", "Azofit".
Coconut shavings - an affordable seedling soil loosening agent Vermiculite or perlite are suitable as disintegrants. A simpler and more affordable option is coconut shavings. You should take 7-8 liters per bucket. It turns out a loose mass. Within a month, microorganisms will do their job, there will be no pathogens in the soil, it will become like fluff. During preparation, ash should also be added to the ground - 1 glass per bucket - and 1 tsp. fertilizers "AVA".
Preparing the soil for growing seedlings - method 4
The last method, which we will consider, does not imply the use of mineral dressings. As a basis, you can take the cheapest soil available on the market. It consists of peat of different layers: high-moor (not fully decomposed) and low-lying (completely decomposed). There should be no more additives in it.
To improve the composition, add sand to the soil for seedlings (in a volume identical to that of peat or slightly less). It is breathable and permeable, makes the soil less dense and crumbly. The sand heats up quickly, which is good for the roots of the seedlings. In addition, it is heavy and serves as a counterweight for tall seedlings, preventing the pot from falling. Almost all seedlings love sandy soil.
When preparing the soil, add sand. Sand can be taken from a construction site, it should be gray or white. Best of all - river. The main thing is not to take red sand, which contains iron oxide. It shouldn't be too small.
Peat soil is usually deacidified at the production stage, but this is often not enough. Therefore, gardeners are advised to make additional deoxidation - 1 tsp. chalk per liter of soil. For the nutritional value of the soil, add vermicompost - 10 liters to 1 liter. Good vermicompost is dried, sifted, without large fractions. It is necessary to mix the composition very well, kneading it with your hands. After two weeks, you can start growing seedlings.
Peat soil usually needs additional deoxidation We examined 4 ways to prepare the soil for planting seedlings. You can also learn how to properly prepare the soil from the video.
Each summer resident, preparing for the new sowing season, worries, first of all, about the future harvest. And in order for the plants to delight with wealth and abundance in the fall, it is necessary to take care of them from the spring. How productive the seedlings will be in the end depends on how strong and robust the seedlings transplanted into open ground will be. And to a large extent it depends on where and how the seedlings spent their first weeks, how they grew. What they ate and how correctly the land was selected for their emergence and growth.
What you need to know when choosing a soil
Fortunately, the time has passed when the land had to be harvested in advance, disinfected from pest larvae, enriched with nutrients and fertilized from outside. There are now a great variety of soils in stores, which are specially selected and enriched with all the necessary elements. How not to get lost in all this diversity and make the really right choice?
What soil to buy for seedlings at home?
What should you know when choosing a material and what kind of soil to buy for a particular seedling?
First of all, you need to remember that "store" land is divided into 2 types:
- Soils;
- Peat soils.
Soils are used for seedlings of vegetable crops. They contain enough nutrients to help young seedlings germinate and grow stronger. In addition, they can be poured into the hole when transplanting a seedling to a permanent place.
Peat soils are not as rich in vitamins and minerals as soil soils and are used for already germinated seedlings, as well as fillers for the planting site and in the formation of beds.
However, for all the seeming simplicity, it is also necessary to have certain knowledge about the finished soil. After all, not all of them can be independently used as soil for seedlings: some need to be additionally fertilized with missing biological additives, and some, on the contrary, are themselves a concentrated mixture for diluting poor soil for fertilization.
So, here are some tips on what kind of soil to opt for:
1. Which one to choose: universal or special?
Any seasoned gardener will immediately say: "Each culture has its own land!" And this land is now being sold for everything separately: "Soil for tomatoes", "Soil for cucumbers", "Soil for flowers" etc. and the reason here is not at all in the desire to fool negligent buyers with a clever advertising move. It's just that each culture really needs a soil with a different content of micro- and macroelements. Saturated with various vitamins. Therefore, it is more likely that an inexperienced gardener will buy a universal soil, while an experienced one is already aware that such a soil most of all needs additional enrichment with biofertilizers.
2. What will the packaging tell you?
Packages without labels are not even worth looking at. Branded primer always contains the name and address of the manufacturer, the composition of the product, the batch number, whether the primer complies with the TU, the dates and shelf life.
You should pay attention to the acidity of the soil, because the required PH is different for all crops. Therefore, soil with high acidity can be detrimental to some types of seedlings, and when buying such land, it will need to be deoxidized with dolomite flour or lime.
3. What will the composition tell you about?
In the "Composition" of most store-bought soils, as a rule, there are no more than 3-4 components. Ideally, it would be nice if it had 1-2 varieties of peat, vermiculite (or some other soil loosening agent), montmorillonite alumina. Since it is unlikely that it will be possible to grow good seedlings from the ground, with the composition of peat + compost.
Also, one should not ignore the content of substances such as Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. If their content in the soil is equal to or more than 300-400 ml.gr. for 1 liter. (ml / l), then it is better to use it as an additive to poorer soil, and not as an independent soil.
4. Take the opportunity to choose.
At a time when the counters are heaped from the abundance of types of soil, it is simply a sin not to take advantage of this. Therefore, it is better to take 1 packet of different soil, and then, if necessary, mix one with the other to improve the composition, rather than buy 10 packs of the same brand, and then buy missing elements. But even when buying the already familiar soil, which turned out to be quite solid last year, you should not immediately buy a lot of packs. After all, no one canceled such a thing as "fake". Therefore, when buying a large batch, for a start, it is better to buy one package, open it on the spot, inspect and evaluate visually, and only then, if you are satisfied with the result, buy the remaining number of packages.
5. What to do after purchase?
But even after the land is selected and purchased, you should not immediately use it for seedlings. Many summer residents even decontaminate the store soil from fungi and larvae. To do this, first it is better to sift and stir it. And then everyone has their own way of disinfection: you can just take it out into the cold, or you can ignite it on fire. You can spill it with boiling water, or you can also use potassium permanganate infusion. But it should be remembered that by killing harmful bacteria, useful ones also perish with them, therefore, the soil should be disinfected in advance so that the soil has the opportunity to stand and restore the lost microflora.
Important! It is very easy to find out the acidity of the soil, simply pouring it onto a non-wet surface and watering it on top with a 9% solution of table vinegar. If it is very foaming, then the soil is alkaline, if there is not much foam, then neutral, if there is no foam at all, then the soil is acidic.
Summing up, what can you say?
Store soil does not at all guarantee good germination of seedlings and a rich crop from plants. Perhaps, in some cases, it would be wiser to use the proven methods of harvesting land: to collect soil from the greenhouse from under the cucumbers or from the beds on which legumes grew. Each has its own method of harvesting soil. However, the purchased soil is nevertheless intended to facilitate the work and life of the gardener-gardener, and at least somehow help on the way to achieving a rich harvest. And what to choose - everyone decides for himself.
DIY seedling land
When carrying out the process of planting seeds, the preparation of high-quality land for seedlings is of great importance. You can buy it or make it yourself.
How to make soil for seedlings yourself?
Soil for seedlings should have the following properties: be balanced and fertile, loose, light, porous. It should have a medium acidity level, have good moisture absorption, and contain microflora.
For the preparation of the soil, use is made of the soil prepared in advance in the fall, organic and inorganic components. The soil should not be too dry or wet, it should not contain clay. It is cleaned of weeds, larvae and worms and sieved. The earth must be disinfected, for which one of the following methods is used: freezing, steaming or calcining. The following soil composition is suitable for almost any seedling: 2 parts of land, 2 parts of organic matter and 1 part of drainage. The acidity of the soil is reduced with lime or ash.
But at the same time, the composition of the soil is individually prepared for different garden crops. So, for eggplants, cucumbers, peppers and onions, the following composition is suitable: 25% earth, 25% sand and 30% peat. If you want to grow cabbage, the proportion of sand must be increased to 40%. If you are wondering: how to make soil for tomato seedlings, then it is recommended to increase the proportion of land to 70%.
How to make land for flower seedlings?
Self-prepared soil for flower seedlings should contain the following components: 1 part of sand, 2 parts of compost, 2 parts of sod land, 3 parts of peat.
Before sowing seeds, the prepared soil mixture must be disinfected. The soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dried. It is recommended to plant seeds in the ground cooled to a temperature of 20-22 ° C.
Thus, having decided what kind of vegetable or flower crops you will grow, you will understand how to make land for seedlings.
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It's time to sow seedlings. What kind of soil is suitable for these purposes?
For seedlings to sprout well, you need prepared seeds and a good earthen mixture. The best will not be the one near the house, but prepared from specially selected parts.
Correct seedling. Preparation of soil and containers for seedlings
To do this, use sod land, peat, sand, humus, sawdust, manure. The ratio of the components may be different, only there are 2 conditions that must be met. First: the seedling soil must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients; the second is its looseness, so that later, during watering, it does not stick together in one piece.
In the first case, the soil mixture can be fertilized, fed, but if the second condition is not met, then all efforts to grow seedlings may be in vain, since the viscous clay-like soil does not provide nutrition to the roots, and the plant simply does not have enough air, it does not develop. And it's almost impossible to fix it. Therefore, the second condition is very important.
The following compositions of soil mixtures are considered the most favorable for growing seedlings: 60-70% peat, 10-15% sod (field) land, 15-20% humus, 5-10% mullein. You can add other components such as sawdust, coarse sand.
They also use such mixtures for seedlings:
1. Peat - 6 parts, field (sod) land - 1 part, humus - 2 parts, sand - 1 part.
2. Peat - 3 parts, mullein - 0.5 parts, sawdust - 1 part.
3. Humus - 1 part, low-lying peat - 1 part.
What are the above components?
Peat occupies the main part in the soil mixture, as it has a high absorption capacity. Sod (field) land has nutrients and good structure due to decomposition of the sod. Humus (decomposed manure) is rich in useful microflora, nutrients, and has a loose structure. Sawdust and sand are additives that prevent soil compaction.
It is good to add more to the seedling soil of nightshades: 300 g of wood ash, 30 g of superphosphate. Add to the soil for cabbage seedlings: 400 g of ash, 20 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate. In pumpkin seedling soil: 500 g of ash, 20 g of superphosphate.
There are also such methods of soil fertilization (based on 10 kg of mixture):
- for nightshades - 10 g of ammonium sulfate, 32 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium chloride;
- for cabbage seedlings - 15 g of ammonium sulfate, 17 g of superphosphate, 6 g of potassium chloride;
- for cucumber seedlings - 8 g of ammonium sulfate, 10 g of superphosphate, 5 g of potassium chloride.
In the soil fertilized in this way, you can no longer fertilize or do it 1 time.
It is useful to add ash to any soil composition - 1-2 glasses.