When to plant climbing roses outdoors. Climbing rose "Iceberg"

The climbing rose is a spectacular garden decoration that can mask any, even the most unsightly area or high wall. But for her to fill the role ornamental plant, she needs to bloom regularly. And flowering directly depends on the conditions of detention and the characteristics of caring for the shrub. We will find out how to properly plant a climbing rose in spring in open ground, and how to take care of her so that she takes root and grows healthy.

Climbing roses are usually planted in the fall. This time of year has a lot of advantages: it's still warm outside, rooting is fast, the pink shoots are already ripe and ready for wintering, and next year the bush grows as intensively as everyone else. But autumn planting is rarely used in the north, where winter comes early, and there is almost no time for the rooting of the rose. You also cannot time with planting if you already have a seedling prepared.

The peculiarities of planting a climbing rose in spring are associated with the fact that it needs time for rooting and adaptation to new conditions. All this inhibits the growth of the aboveground part. As a result, the bush lags behind in development from other shrubs by about 2 weeks, and it may happen that by the onset of cold weather the stems do not have time to ripen (woody). Then death awaits them in winter. To prevent this from happening, after the spring planting, the rose needs to be provided optimal conditions maintenance and intensive care. Then she not only quickly adapts, but also overtakes other plants in development.

The best time to plant

The timing of planting a climbing rose in spring depends on local climate and weather, which cannot be predicted. but experienced florists still identified an approximate time suitable for this:

• In the south of the country, roses are planted in open ground with the onset of April. The deadline is early May.
• V middle lane The climate in Russia and in the Moscow region is more severe, so it is better to plant bushes from the end of April to the end of May.
• In the Urals and Siberia with a harsh continental climate, it is advisable to plant from late May to mid-June.

It is impossible to be guided only by these recommendations. Therefore, keep an eye on the weather and soil conditions. It should have time to warm up to + 8 ... + 10 o C. Otherwise, the roses will root and take root poorly. For planting, you should choose a cloudy and quiet day, when there will be no bright sun, precipitation and strong winds.

Choosing a place and necessary conditions

We will tell you what requirements the site on which you are going to plant a climbing rose must meet.

Lighting and location

For roses, lighting is very important. They love it when the sun shines on them around the clock. However choose sunny location it is very difficult for a climbing shrub: after all, it is usually planted near high fences and walls that close the place on at least one side. Then you should be guided by the fact that the morning sun is most important for rose bushes. Therefore, choose an area where sunlight will fall at least from the east, and preferably from the southeast. Then your beauty will quickly grow.

Important! In the first days after planting a rose in the ground, it will need to be shaded from the scorching rays of the sun. This will help avoid sunburn... When the bush takes root, there will be no need to shade the bush.

Temperature

The rose bush tolerates the warm Russian summer and even the heat well, subject to frequent and abundant watering. But in winter he is not very comfortable: most varieties of roses belong to the 5th zone of winter hardiness. This means that without shelter, they can survive frosts only up to -25 ... -20 o C. Therefore, they need to be sheltered for the winter.

Attention! Some varieties may belong to the 4th or even 3rd winter hardiness zone. They can withstand up to -30 ... -35 о С and -35 ... -40 о С. marks at -40 o C).

Air and humidity

Roses are needed in moderation wet air(40-70%), which in summer time self-supported. For climbing shrubs, an angular arrangement (planting near the corner of a wall) is not suitable, since it does not tolerate drafts. It is best to plant it at a distance of 0.6 m from the middle of the wall or other support in another area protected from the through wind.

Priming

A light, fertile loam with good drainage and a neutral reaction is best suited for rose bushes. They do not tolerate close bedding. groundwater: it is not necessary for the roots to reach them, but they can grow up to 2 meters deep. If the waters are located close to the surface, and the terrain itself is swampy, then during the construction of the landing pit, it is necessary to provide for the construction of drainage. So that the water does not stagnate in the ground, it is better to plant the rose on a slightly inclined plane.

When choosing seedlings, pay attention to the following nuances:

• The root system must be well developed, healthy and strong. Do not take seedlings if the roots have become sluggish, most likely, the bush was dug up a long time ago, and it is very weak.
• Shoots must be healthy and strong. They should not have sick and frail stems.
• The color of the trunk should be green. If it is gray or brown, pass by such a seedling.

Before planting, a climbing rose needs to be prepared in order to smooth out the stress it experiences and help it to settle down faster:

1. Soak its roots in water for one day. You can add a little potassium permanganate to make a light pink solution.
2. Then soak it for 3-4 hours (maximum - 10-12 hours) in a growth stimulant solution (Zircon, Kornevin).
3. Take out the bush and prune it if necessary. It will be necessary to remove not only shoots up to 20-25 cm, but also damaged roots to healthy tissue.
4. Places with a cut before planting should be treated with a 0.2% Fundazole solution or other fungicide.

Important! In some nurseries, seedlings are sold not with an open root system, but with an earthen ball. They are usually packaged in biodegradable material. Such bushes can be planted directly in the package without preprocessing roots. But this is provided if you land immediately after purchase.

Planting process

To plant a climbing rose in spring, you will need the following tools, items and materials:

• gloves (to keep your hands clean and protect them from being punctured by thorns);
• shovel (for digging a landing hole);
• drainage material (this can be expanded clay, crushed brick, crushed stone or other stones of a coarse fraction), as well as sand;
• fertilizers superphosphate, potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate (granular is better, since they will nourish the plant during the entire growing season);
• peat and humus (for cooking light, loose and nutritious soil mixture);
• dolomite flour, wood ash or lime (for soil deoxidation);
• warm water (for irrigation) and a bucket for it;
• shelter for shading the rose.

After preparing the seedling for planting, prepare the planting pit:

1. Dig a hole about 0.6-0.7 m deep and wide. Optimal distance between holes - 1 m.
2. If you plant a bush in a swampy area, then the depth should be greater - about 0.8-0.9 m (for the construction of drainage). Lay a thick layer (15-20 cm) of crushed brick or coarse rubble at the bottom of the pit, and pour about 5 cm of coarse river sand on top.
3. Prepare a nutritious and fluffy mixture. To do this, mix peat and humus in equal proportions. If the soil is acidic, then it will be additionally useful to add about 1 kg wood ash or 500-600 g of lime or dolomite flour. Mix everything thoroughly.
4. Fill the pit with 30-40% nutrient mixture. Add granular fertilizer to it: 2-3 handfuls of superphosphate and 1 handful potassium sulfate or potassium magnesium.

Plant roses in the prepared hole:

1. Place the seedling in the hole and distribute its roots evenly throughout the entire volume.
2. Holding the bush with one hand, fill the empty space between the roots with the other.
3. When the roots are sprinkled, pour a bucket into the pit warm water... Pour gently so as not to wash away the backfilled soil.
4. Fill the hole to the top with the nutrient mixture, while the root collar should be about 10-12 cm deep.
5. Compact the earth in the hole and build a small earthen rampart around it. It will be needed so that water during irrigation does not spill over the entire surface of the soil, but is absorbed directly in the zone of the root system.

Advice! After planting a climbing rose in open ground, shade it for 10-14 days if the sun is shining outside.

How to tie a climbing rose

A climbing rose needs to be supported. Often it is enough just to plant it next to it, for example, near the following structures:

• arch;
• wall;
• fence;
• pergola or gazebo;
• dry tree trunk.

But if the support does not have places to cling to, or there is none at all, then the rose needs to be tied up. To do this, use a thick garden twine (be sure to carry out the procedure with gloves and with an assistant):

1. Collect the whips into a compact bush.
2. Ask a helper to hold the rose in this position.
3. Wrap the shrub around with a garden twine and tie it in a tight knot.

The climbing rose is now tied up, but it also needs support. If the wall, fence, or gazebo does not have a trellised surface or small protrusions that the plant can cling to, construct a rope or wire mesh. You can simply tie a strong rope to the top of the support, and tie a peg to the lower end and stick it near the bush. 3-4 such rope supports are enough for the rose to crawl upwards along them.

Another support option is a structure wooden pyramid made of thin but durable wooden blocks. In the pictures below, see how you can tie up climbing roses so that they look beautiful.

After planting a climbing rose, she needs to provide intensive care so that she grows faster, and her shoots have time to ripen by hibernation. Care includes:

• Watering... Water the rose abundantly (10-20 liters of warm, settled water) as needed before frost. In heat and drought, the frequency of watering should be 4-6 times a week, the rest of the time - 2-3 times. Closer to frost, watering should be reduced to 1 time per week.
• Top dressing... If you added ash and granular fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium to the planting pit, then 2 nitrogen fertilization will be enough during the season. Young roses prefer organic. To do this, 2-3 weeks after planting the bush in the ground, feed it with a mullein (1 part in 10 parts of water, infused for 7 days). You can also use an infusion of chicken manure (1 part to 20 parts of water, infused for a week). This top dressing must be repeated in the middle of summer, but nitrogen cannot be applied to the soil in the second half and in autumn.
• Loosening and / or mulching e. When a dense crust forms, it must be broken. But this must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Instead of loosening the soil, it can be covered with a layer of mulch - pieces of bark, sawdust, decorative stones.
• Treatment for diseases... During the rainy season, spray the rose once a week with a 0.2% Fundazole solution. The rest of the time, you can treat 1 time 2 weeks with Fitosporin or Zircon to form immunity to fungal infections.
• Pest control... If a bush is affected by aphids, treat it soapy water... If other pests appear, use insecticides (Aktara, Actellik, Chlorophos or Karbofos). The second treatment should be carried out 1 week after the first.
• Sanitary pruning... In the fall, when the first frosts come, the climbing rose must be cut off. For sanitary pruning, it is enough to remove all weak, thin, damaged and diseased shoots, as well as those that did not have time to ripen by winter. You cannot leave them, as they will die in severe frosts. The same goes for flowers and leaves, if they have not fallen off themselves.
• Formative pruning... It can be carried out both in spring and autumn. The rules for the procedure depend on which pruning group your rose belongs to. If flowers are formed on the shoots of this year, then the old shoots must be shortened strongly. And if flowering occurs only on last year's stems, then they only need to be cut off the top. With the mixed type, neither old nor young shoots should be strongly pruned.
• Shelter for the winter... If your rose variety is thermophilic (most likely it is), then it must be covered for the winter. This can be done in two ways. The first is to remove the lashes from the support and cover them with spruce paws and a layer of waterproof material. The second is in the construction of the frame around the rose and wrapping it with roofing material or other material. Then the void inside the frame is filled with dry foliage, and covered with a film on top. In any case, the trunk must be earthed up or covered with peat.

Climbing roses look very elegant. At proper care they can bloom throughout the summer, forming lush bedspreads of terry and fragrant flowers. With them, you can disguise all unsightly areas of the garden and outbuildings. They can be the main focus and create a romantic atmosphere. But for this you need to try and give all your love and care to the bush.

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, from simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Long-lasting flowering begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of walls of buildings, balconies, gazebos.

There are many varieties of wicker roses, the description of which will take a lot of time and space. However, according to the nature of growth, these roses can be conditionally divided into three groups:

• Curly - from 5 m to 15 m in height.
• Climbing heights - from 3 m to 5 m.
• Semi-plaited in height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total flowering time is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-flowering roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation, you need to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good illumination helps the growth to ripen, which will bloom next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, it will not work to grow these flowers.

When choosing a planting site, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not "cover" other plants that do not require shelter.

What kind of soil should be. To grow climbing roses, a fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required.And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil looseness.

Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root collar of a seedling at the age of 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

When is the best time to plant roses. In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in the fall from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to late May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of the planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are spudded with earth with sand to a height of 20-25 cm. sub-zero temperatures the plants are covered for the winter.

Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp secateurs. Aboveground part shorten to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting out rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild growth will develop from them. The seedlings are disinfected by dipping copper sulfate in 3%.

Landing. Planting pits are prepared with a size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not bend the roots of the plants too much. They are supposed to be freely spread out in the hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are deepened 5 cm when planting, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled two-thirds of the depth with earth, compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water is absorbed, the pit is filled up with earth, and the seedling is spud up to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the hilling level is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the earth is carefully raked away from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, roses are opened and processed in the same way. autumn planting... At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the most sensitive spot of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring new shoots will grow over it.

If the climbing rose grows against the wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought up to the wall with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose was grown against the wall itself, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

When late spring planting carried out in dry warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of wet peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3 - 5 buds.

Climbing rose care

Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely feeding, pruning, combating diseases and pests, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, the plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and thorough care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout most of the summer.

How to water. Taking good care of your plants comes first correct watering... Roses consume a lot of water during the growing season. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which contributes to the preservation of moisture in the soil and better access of air to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by soil mulching.

The lack of moisture in the soil affects the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts from the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering with a hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Top dressing. To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10 - 20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with full, complex fertilizers. Fertilizers can be either dry or liquid.

First of all, in the spring, liquid fertilizing is carried out with full mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg. Ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and watered at the root of the roses. Such an operation will provide an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such feeding, alternating with each other, must be done until mid-summer. From mid-July, they stop feeding nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash, so that the bush has already started preparing for winter.

For any feeding, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an excess of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may deteriorate. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Highly important place in the care of weaving roses, pruning takes.

The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long-lasting flowering, and keep plants in a healthy state.

At good care have roses for summer period long shoots grow, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and podoprevshie shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned on a strong external bud.

In the future, the pruning of climbing roses is carried out, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoots.

The former form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They do not bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called basic (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 regeneration (replacement) shoots, which will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should only consist of 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong recovery shoots are formed at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well tended), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group.

For bushes with repeated flowering, it is enough to have from 1 to 3 annual shoots recovery and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re blooming roses pruning in early spring is recommended. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be trimmed.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, only the very tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be pruned, the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful maintenance can provide nearly continuous flowering roses in your garden.

Reproduction of climbing roses

The cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2 - 3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or directly into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered on top glass jar or with a film and shade from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Good results are obtained by cuttings in early spring. During spring pruning there are many cut off shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

Shelter roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the climbing rose shelter for the winter can stretch for several days, or even a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature; in frost, the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or two bundles and then spreading them in different directions.

If, when you tilt the bush, you feel that the stems may break, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover the rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes it has to be done even in the snow. Lutrasil cover is sufficient in the southern regions. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite varied: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and there is no need to talk about how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings.

Climbing roses can beautify your home like no other flowering plant. One rose climbing up is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or to emphasize the originality of the facade, to add romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.

Garden ensembles created with climbing roses are particularly sophisticated, but to achieve a good result, you need the right approach to growing them. We will tell you about the secrets of planting and caring for this fashionable and beautiful plant.

About the varieties and varieties of climbing roses

All climbing roses are divided into 3 groups: ramblers (small-flowered), large-flowered (Climber) and Climbing (climbings), differing even more large flowers... The difference between them is clearly visible in the photo.

The varieties most popular with us are:

Landing

A curly rose, planting and caring for which is somewhat different from other types of roses, loves the sun, therefore it is planted on the southern or southwestern side of the estate. Wetlands are not suitable. In this case, the roots may rot. in depth, they germinate up to 2 m. It is better when the place where they grow is located on a hill and is well ventilated.

Important! Never plant bushes in places where roses have already grown.

It is recommended to plant plants in the fall (in September), although you can do this in the spring, but then the flowers will appear 2 weeks later. The most suitable soil is loose, permeable loam. Heavy clay is diluted with a little lime. For planting roses, a bed 0.5-0.6 m wide is enough. Pits measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m and at a distance of 1 m from one another are dug out in advance. If at the time of planting the soil in them is dry, pour 1 bucket of water into each, add 0.5 buckets of manure, humus and phosphorus-containing fertilizer. Dig the bottom of the hole.

Climbing rose bush before planting

Before planting, the seedlings are treated - the roots are pruned, removing long shoots, etched in a solution of potassium permanganate of low concentration, charcoal sprinkle the places where the kidneys are located, then the bush is dipped into the biostimulant solution. As the latter, a mineral mixture is often used, consisting of clay, mullein and 2-3 tablets of phosphorobacterin per 10 liters of water or 1 tablet of heteroauxin. After that, the seedling is immersed in the hole. If this happens in the fall, then the root collar is covered with soil by 12 centimeters, otherwise the plant will most likely die in winter. Further, the soil is compacted and watered, and the plant is cut off, stepping back from the ground level of 18 centimeters. When planting in spring, the seedling is shortened to 11-13 cm.

Advice. If you plan to decorate the wall, then place the pit for the climbing rose at a distance of about 0.45 m from the object, because its roots can destroy the foundation.

Curly rose care

Care includes a minimum of activities:

• abundant, but without fanaticism, watering - once a week and a half;
• mulching with grass, sawdust, humus, straw;
• pruning faded shoots to stimulate the emergence of new buds;
• top dressing.

Choose the most for the rose sunny place Location on

Since the length of the branches grows rather quickly, you need to plan their direction in advance. As soon as they grow to 0.5 m, set vertical supports for their garter. During the season, many such racks have to be installed, because many lateral processes appear on each lash. Thus, the crown is formed, the flowering becomes longer and more abundant, and the entire object near which the bush grows is completely covered with stems, as in the photo.

An obligatory procedure is to prepare the bush for winter. He needs good thermal insulation... Climbing roses are covered in two ways: by removing them from the support and leaving the lashes in place. When choosing the first method, shoots are removed from the rack, weak and old ones are removed so that only 10-12 pieces remain. the strongest. Further, they are tied, pressed to the soil, fixed with pegs, covered with spruce branches, and a layer of soil is poured onto the base and covered with a film.

Think in advance and install a support for a climbing rose

Fertilization and feeding

Humus added to the pit during planting will feed the rosebush for 2 years. In the future, the plant will need fertilizers. In the spring, manure is applied to induce the growth of young stems. This fertilizer is contraindicated in autumn, because the overgrown shoots will not have time to gain strength and will not survive the winter. The optimal composition of autumn feeding:

• sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium;
• superphosphate - double and simple;
• slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, i.e. formulations containing calcium.

Roses need varied and regular feeding.

During the growing season, roses are fed 4-5 times. To feed the plants with potassium, you can use a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 15 g of superphosphate and 16 g of potassium monophosphate. In order for the roses to get enough phosphate, 10 g of magnesium sulfate is added to a bucket of water. As a calcium supplement, use a solution of 1 large spoonful of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water.

Advice. Bury a banana peel under a banana peeling bush to enrich your roses with potassium. They contain a lot of this element.

Reproduction of a climbing rose

The most common breeding method is grafting... At the same time, rooting rate is almost 100%. Cuttings are best harvested from lashes that are still blooming or have already faded in June-August. This is done like this:

• cut blanks with 2-3 buds;
• the bottom is cut off under the last bud at an angle of 45 degrees, the top is straight;
• the leaves are removed from the bottom, and shortened from above by 1/2;
• planted directly on a flower bed or in a container;

Climbing rose seedlings

• cover with a plastic or glass container;
• moisturize without violating the tightness of the shelter;
• remove protection in the spring of the next year.

Sometimes the cuttings are treated with a growth agent - heteroauxin or any other.

More complex method - budding... It is suitable only for a few large-flowered climbing roses. The operation is carried out in July-August, but in the south it also covers September. One or 2-year-old rosehip is chosen as a stock, on the root collar of which an incision is made in the form of the letter T and a sleeping bud is inserted. The place is tightly twisted with a film, and the scion itself is sprinkled with soil. When the 4th leaf appears on the processes, they are pinched.

Diseases and pests of climbing roses

Curly roses are often struck by this fungal disease, how powdery mildew especially when the weather is humid and hot. As a result, the bush ceases to gain in growth, flowers fall off, the plant withers. For prevention, plants are treated 2 times with Bordeaux liquid: the first time in the spring after removing the spruce branches, the second - when the shoots grow 20 centimeters.

Mealy rose on rose leaves

Sometimes, after removing the shelter, reddish-brown spots appear on the bark. They grow, darken and can reach the point that the entire shoot is, as it were, covered by a ring. This disease is called koniotirium, "burn", bark cancer. It is caused by a fungus that has settled inside the tissue and progresses in winter. Sick lashes are cut and burned. For prophylaxis in winter, during a thaw, the covering material is raised for ventilation, and during autumn dressings, the percentage of nitrogen and potassium is reduced.

These roses, like no other plants, are suitable for decorating gazebos, arches, pergolas, fences, walls and balconies. It is not very difficult to grow them, so if you wish, you can create beautiful, spectacular compositions from different varieties in your country house.

The difference between climbing roses and curly: video

Varieties of climbing roses: photo

• Kind: Rosaceae
• Flowering Period: June, July
• Height: 5-15m
• Colour: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, burgundy
• Perennial
• Hibernates
• Sun-loving
• Moisture-loving

Summer residents adore rose bushes for their lush color and delicate aroma. Small bushes on the porch, flower beds along the path, area near the gazebo or pool - delicate rosebuds can decorate any part of the land. But nothing beats climbing roses - luxurious perennials that can even turn an abandoned shack into a romantic corner. A magic carpet of fragrant flowers is ideal for vertical gardening, but it will be truly beautiful on one condition: if provided correct fit and care for a climbing rose. It is about these procedures that we are going to talk about today.

Sumptuously flowering plants require special attention, and long lashes with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically verified planting, careful feeding, timely pruning, protection of shrubs from pests and winter insulation guarantee a full-fledged result - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.

Choosing a growing place

Roses are very fond of the sun and hate wetlands, so the place of their planting should be well ventilated and illuminated by the sun's rays. Also, plants develop worse if roses have already been planted in the planned place. It is not bad if there is a nearby room suitable for winter storage shrubs.

Lush shrubs are great for decorating old buildings, change houses, utility rooms: blooming shoots successfully cover parts of the roof and walls

So that water does not stagnate in the ground, the selected place must have at least minimum slope... Waterlogging can occur due to close-lying groundwater. It should be borne in mind that the length of the roots often reaches two meters, and if there is a risk of high humidity, it is necessary to plant flowers on a hill.

Sometimes rose bushes are planted near the walls of a building for the purpose of decorating them, which threatens to deplete the roots. To prevent this trouble, maintain a distance of 55-60 cm from the wall, as well as at least 50 cm from other plants. The feature is precisely climbing varieties- the presence of a support, the role of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, specially created cones or pillars.

A reliable support for a climbing rose can be built with your own hands from several bars or boards, which are connected in the form of a lattice or a cone

A garden arch for roses can be made with your own hands:

Optimal planting time

In the middle lane with a temperate climate, the best planting period is from the last decade of September to early October. After one to two weeks, the plants give the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of severe frosts. With the onset of spring, both the aboveground and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering, the bush is gaining full strength, not yielding to old plants in splendor.

When setting the planting time of climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example, "Super Dorothy" blooms quite late, despite early date landing

If planting is done in spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and more careful care of such a climbing rose will be required. Before planting in the ground, the seedling must be made 2-3 buds shorter. Novice gardeners do it easier: they buy self-rooted plants in containers in the nursery, and in late spring they place them in the ground.

Initial treatment of seedlings

You should seriously approach the processing of seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be defective. Preparation includes several manipulations:

• soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (only roots or the whole plant);
• pruning shoots and roots;
• dusting the cut points with charcoal, previously crushed;
• root treatment with a useful mixture.

Pruning climbing roses means shortening several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm, weaker shoots must be removed completely. They do the same with the root system: crushed or long shoots are removed, leaving a small bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant will be more active, and during the flowering period the rose will give numerous lush buds.

Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and, at the right time, will be covered with an exuberant color.

Pruned and soaked in fertilizers, the seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly develop and bloom in lush color.

One of the options for a mineral mixture for processing: a little clay, 1/10 of a mullein, phosphorobacterin (2-3 tablets per 10 liters of solution). You can use heteroauxin - just 1 tablet is enough.

Features of soil preparation

The ideal soil for a rose shrub is a loose loamy permeable soil containing a fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are completely unsuitable for growing flowers, so each of these soil types must be diluted with the opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and chemically more suitable.

If the soil in the area is too acidic, liming is performed:

Heavy fragrant buds bright color- the first sign that the soil for the plant is chosen correctly: it passes water and air well

To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphorus fertilizers, and special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of summer, they dig everything up several times, and in the spring they do another shoveling.

Fossa device: more freedom

The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a lack of free space. Optimal depth- 60-65 cm. The pits must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from one another, only in this case root system will be able to develop freely. When planting a rose, the root collar is immersed in the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus, it is protected from frost in winter period(in the presence of additional insulation).

When arranging a planting pit, it is necessary to take into account not only its size, but also finding a relative support: nothing should interfere with the development of plant roots

The roots are positioned freely, carefully filling the voids between them. About 5 kg of peat compost or a similar nutrient mixture must be added to each hole. The hole is filled with earth to the level of the ground surface, and then trampled down a little. Further care for climbing roses implies timely fertilizing. The first is carried out immediately after landing. For watering, a mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent, as an option - humates.

To saturate the soil with microelements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which are easy to prepare in the country with your own hands.

If you want to create a rose garden on your site, then use it not only curly species roses:

Garter and bush shaping

By directing young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the shape that was originally planned. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering a garter of separate lashes is necessary. Usually climbing species are used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all the branches should be directed upward: with this arrangement, the bush will become poorer, and the buds will appear only at the very top.

The solution is simple: several main branches must be placed horizontally, and for this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will give several side shoots growing upward, and most importantly, a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle good for wall decoration, high mesh fences, pergolas.

The correct garter of roses ensures the development of shoots in the right direction: along a fence or arch, over a plane, around supports of various configurations

An excellent solution for a walking path - a suite of arches designed to decorate with climbing roses and clematis, which have already been planted and will soon grow

Also popular is another way of arranging shoots - "fan", when side shoots extend freely up and to the sides without interfering with each other. For braiding a post or arch, a "spiral" is more suitable, when the lashes are twisted around the support. With any arrangement of shoots, you do not need to neglect the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only regular pruning, watering and feeding, but also preparing for frost.

Weak shoots and old lashes are cut off, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected in a large bundle, tied, tilted to the ground and fixed in this position with the help of pegs. Lastly, they cover them with spruce paws. The base of the shrub should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and covered with agrofibre or a dense film on top.

Single rose bushes are covered separately, and nearby growing ones can be insulated with a large piece of agrofibre covering several bushes at once

The second method resembles the first, but the whips remain tied to the support. It is used in milder climates. The shoots are covered with the same spruce branches, and from above they are hermetically wrapped with foil. High-quality covering material and properly executed insulation guarantee the safety of the rose bush until the spring thaw.

In addition to pruning and sheltering roses, other procedures are needed before wintering:

Only by fulfilling these requirements can one hope for good flowering.