Anthurium cultivation and care. Top dressing and fertilizer

The Anthurium genus contains hundreds of tropical plant species that are often admired as houseplants for their colorful flowers nearly all year round. Anthurium is native to the tropical forests of Central and South America. Despite being sensitive to temperature and humidity, anthuriums are relatively hardy and easy to care for indoors. They are usually sold as cuttings or mature plants, but it is also possible to grow them from seed.

Steps

Part 1

Prepare the soil mix. Anthurium prefers rough, well-drained soil. Try a mixture of equal parts perlite, peat moss, and pine bark. Also, mix three parts potting mix with one part coarse material such as orchid bark or gravel. If the anthurium is at least a year old, it may prefer even coarser material, achieved by adding a handful of crushed aquarium charcoal, coarse river sand, or small pieces. broken brick.

• Outdoors, anthuriums can only grow in American climatic zones 11 and 12, which corresponds to minimum annual temperatures of 4.4ºC or higher. In any other climate, use a flower pot and keep them indoors.

1. Plant the anthurium in a pot 1/3 filled with this potting mix. Anthuriums should be in a pot only slightly larger than it is, or its roots may rot and die. Fill the pot 1/3 full with the prepared soil mixture. Generally, the plant's roots will continue to grow above the soil, so starting at this low filling level, postpone the need to transplant the anthurium into a larger pot.

   • If you're using a potting mix with less coarse material or poorer drainage, consider a layer or two of pebbles at the bottom of the container to speed up water runoff.

2. Keep in a warm or hot place with indirect sunlight. Anthuriums grow well at daytime temperatures of 27-32ºC. If this is not possible, plants will generally survive indoors above 15.5ºC, but the warmer the better. Avoid direct sunlight, which can burn the plant, but keep it in a brightly lit area to encourage flowering. A south or east window sill is a good option (north or east if you're in the Southern Hemisphere).

   • If nighttime temperatures fall below 4.4ºC, the leaves may turn yellow and growth will most likely slow down. The plant rarely lasts long if the temperature drops below zero (0ºC).
   • Do not place plants directly in front of heaters and heating vents, which can burn them.

3. Keep the air humid. Simulate the humid tropical environment of anthuriums by keeping the room at 80% or higher humidity. Aquariums or shallow trays of pebbles in the water will help achieve this if placed near the plant. Spray the plants weekly or daily if you live in a dry climate, making sure to spray on parts of the stem that have grown over the rim of the pot.

   Keep the soil moist but not soaked. Water in small amounts as needed to prevent the soil from drying out. Even in hot weather, the soil does not need to be watered more than once every two or three days, as the plant will not absorb much water from the roots.

   • If the leaves are turning yellow (but not brown and wilted), this may be a sign of overwatering. Let the soil dry out before watering if this occurs.

4. Provide support if the anthurium falls. Most anthuriums are natural, but probably a minority are sold as houseplants - "epiphytic," meaning they grow on plants other than soil. If your plant has a similar climbing stem and is unable to support itself, use a peg or other wooden object to prop the plant up. You do not need to move the epiphytic anthurium out of the soil; she won't hurt him.

   Fertilize the anthurium carefully. A newly planted anthurium does not need fertilizer for at least a few months. If you choose to apply a fertilizer to encourage vibrant color and growth, use a 3:1:2 slow release fertilizer and dilute to 1/4 the recommended amount before application as directed.

   Transplant to a larger pot when needed. Anthuriums often build a mound of roots above the soil surface. About once a year, or if the soil begins to dry out quickly between waterings, pack a layer of peat moss or sphagnum moss into the bottom 1/2 or 2/3 of the exposed stem. Keep this layer moist and wait for the roots to sprout from the covered part of the stem. After they have spread throughout this layer, cut the stem clean, sharp knife at the bottom of the potting mix, and transfer the covered stem to a new pot with the covered stem below soil level.

   • Remember, plant the anthurium in a container only 1/3 full of soil, so that the stem is below the rim of the pot.

   Part 2

   Growing anthurium from seeds

   1. Plant seeds for an additional task. Commercially grown anthuriums are usually propagated by cuttings and grafts. It is possible to grow Anthurium from seed, but as a result the plant may have unpredictable characteristics if it was produced with a hybrid mother plant and may be more difficult to grow. In non-tropical areas, it can be difficult to even find fresh anthurium seeds.

      • If you are growing an anthurium cutting or a mature plant, skip to the beginning of the second section.

   2. Collect ripe anthurium fruits. Anthurium seeds should be fresh and moist when planted. If you don't have an Anthurium, ask another gardener or garden store if you can get some of the fruits from their plants, which are rarely used. If you live in the tropical New World region, you can collect wild anthuriums. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of Anthurium species, so you may want to consult your local plant identification booklet.

      • Warning: the fruit, along with all other parts of the anthurium, are toxic and should not be eaten.

   3. Remove the pulp. The pulp of the fruit surrounding the seed can prevent the seed from growing or mold. Scoop out as much pulp as you can with your fingers, then scoop out the seed into a glass of water. Leave it there for a day or two until the pulp separates and floats to the surface.

      • Warning: Some types of anthuriums can irritate the skin. The use of gloves is recommended.

   4. Prepare the soil mix for the seeds. Grind sphagnum moss, available at gardening stores, into shorter fibers to make a fine, fluffy material. Mix three parts of this ground moss with 1 part river sand or perlite, and add a small amount of ground aquarium charcoal.

   5. Sow the seeds and pour the potting mix into a clear-coated flowerpot or tray. Anthuriums are native to the tropics and require a warm, humid environment. There is a couple various ways so you can recreate this environment:

      • Pour the soil mixture into 10 centimeter flower pots. Place the seeds on the surface of the soil, one per pot, and place a glass tin upside down over each pot.
      • Or, line the bottom of a shallow clay tray with prepared potting soil. Spread the seeds evenly over it, and cover the tray with a flat sheet of glass or plastic, leaving an air gap between the sheet and the soil.

   6. Lightly dampen the soil mixture. Wet the potting mix a little, then cover with a clear barrier as above to keep the environment moist. Moistening the mossy mixture can also help prevent the seed from sinking below the surface, which can prevent it from germinating.

      • If tap water hard in your area, use bottled water.

   7. Keep it in a warm room, away from direct sunlight. Keep the potting mix at about 27°C, in indirect sun or partial shade. Within about 20-30 days, the seeds should germinate and grow their first root and leaves, after which they can be moved to larger containers and cared for as described below.

      • Move the young plant carefully, as the roots may be brittle. Ideally, use a shovel to pick up the mossy material surrounding the plant and carefully place it on the new pot after preparing it, as described below.
   • Anthuriums are susceptible common pests, such as mites and aphids, but gently wiping them off the leaves with a wet towel is often enough to clean them up after a few treatments. For more serious infections, contact your local botanist or garden expert.

   Warnings

   • Keep all anthuriums out of the reach of pets and small children. Contact your veterinarian or doctor if you suspect an animal or child has been exposed to anthurium.
   • All parts of the anthurium are moderately toxic to any type of anthurium. Ingestion, and even skin contact in some species, may cause irritation, soreness, or pain, but medical attention is not required unless large amounts are ingested, or swallowing or breathing is not impaired.
   • Don't try to grow anthurium in a container of water, as some online guides mistakenly recommend.

It is rare to find an amateur grower in whose apartment there is no anthurium. It can be safely attributed to the most popular indoor plants, despite the tenderness, whimsical care and some capriciousness. But with the reproduction of anthurium, problems almost never arise - there are several different ways. But each of them has its own nuances that you need to study before starting the procedure.

What does anthurium look like

Anthurium (Anthurium) - one of the most popular tropical plants grown at home. The genus belongs to the Aroid family (Araceae) and has more than five hundred "natural" representatives, excluding hybrids bred by breeding. Most anthuriums can be found in the forests of South and Central America, as well as on the islands of the Caribbean.

Enduring success with amateurs indoor plants anthurium is obliged to abundant, bright and almost continuous flowering. Experienced flower growers believe that only some types of orchids can be compared in spectacularity with this “living bouquet”.

The leaves of the anthurium are dense, leathery, rich green in color. They seem to be carved from shiny satin or finely piled velvet. The size of the leaf plate varies from 5–10 cm to 90–100 cm. The shape resembles a heart (botanists call it broadly lanceolate), which seems to be almost flat on the petiole. The leaves can be not only plain - there are varieties with white or silver veins, or with "ornaments".

Anthurium inflorescence - a large cob. It is to its form that the plant owes its name. Translated from the Greek anthos - flower, oura - tail. However, there are species with a more interesting shape of the inflorescence - it can bend and even twist into a spiral. When the anthurium fades, the ear is covered with fruits that look like berries.

The inflorescence is “wrapped” with one petal-veil, which seems to be fashioned from wax. The veins are clearly visible on it. Often the petal is quite bright, red, orange or pink, shiny, which is why the anthurium is called the "flamingo flower". Although there are many varieties with a rather nondescript, greenish or creamy veil. The petal almost does not hide the inflorescence, resembling a wing.

Anthurium is a rather demanding plant. Many species are physically impossible to grow at home - only specially equipped greenhouses or greenhouses are suitable for this. Nevertheless, many flower growers are not ready to give up a capricious pet, because even if there are problems with an old plant, it is relatively easy to get a new one - nature has provided several methods of reproduction.

Video: appearance and other characteristic features of anthurium

What you need to know when starting to propagate a plant at home

There are several ways to propagate anthurium, so the grower can choose the one that he likes best, focusing on the condition and appearance of the flower.

In any case, it should be remembered that anthurium, like all Aroids, is poisonous. The juice of the plant, getting on the skin or mucous membranes, causes unpleasant symptoms characteristic of allergies (itching, rash, redness, irritation, and so on). The intensity of their manifestation depends on the sensitivity of the skin. If the juice is accidentally swallowed, a serious stomach upset is likely. Therefore, when starting to breed anthurium, be sure to wear gloves, and at the end of work, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water.

The soil in which the flower is sold in the store is categorically not suitable for him. A substrate designed specifically for epiphytes or Aroids is quite problematic to find. You can use soil for orchids, saintpaulias (violets) or bromeliads - it meets the requirements of acidity (pH 4.5-6.5), but still this is not ideal.

Therefore, it is better to mix the soil yourself. Before planting, it must be disinfected by exposing it to cold, heat or steam.

• Fertile turf, leaf humus, perlite or vermiculite (1:3:1). Small pieces of birch charcoal are added to the finished mixture (about 5% of the total volume).
• Soil for azaleas or rhododendrons, peat chips, pieces of pine bark (about 1 cm), expanded clay (up to 3 mm in diameter), chopped sphagnum moss. The substrate is light and loose, but at the same time retains moisture well.

It is quite possible to find an alternative for the missing components. Perlite and vermiculite will replace coarse river sand, sphagnum - common swamp moss or, birch charcoal - crushed chalk or crushed pumice.

Grown up anthuriums are transplanted into pots, shaped like bowls - shallow and wide. root system the plant is superficial. Must have a thick layer drainage material. It should fill at least a quarter of the volume of the pot.

The accustomed young anthuriums are watered abundantly before transplanting into a container and soil suitable for adult plants. Then the soil is not moistened for 3-4 days. The first month with watering, you need to be especially careful - there is a high risk of rot.

Video: general information about the reproduction of anthurium

Step by step instructions with photo

In principle, there is nothing complicated in the reproduction of anthurium. All parts of the plant are suitable for this. It is important to first study the technology and understand whether it is right for your flower.

How to propagate by dividing a large bush

The method is suitable only for adult plants (3-4 years and older). Care for the anthuriums obtained in this way does not have any specific features. Except for the first two or three months. experienced growers it is recommended to spray the plant weekly with any biostimulant - Epin, Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin, potassium humate. Ordinary succinic acid is also suitable.

The division of the anthurium bush allows not only to obtain new specimens, but also to significantly rejuvenate the plant. The procedure is carried out at the beginning or in the middle of spring, simultaneously with the next transplant.

1. Water the plant abundantly 20-30 minutes before the procedure.
2. Remove the anthurium from the pot by lightly tapping the sides. Shake the substrate off the roots.
3. Carefully unravel the roots. They are cut with a knife only as a last resort, because they are very fragile, easily broken. "Wounds" are immediately sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated charcoal, cinnamon. Each part of the plant must have a growing point, well-developed roots and at least one leaf.
4. Get rid of all rotten, dead, dried roots. Cut sections as described above. Give the plant about an hour to air dry.
5. Transplant the parts into new pots using soil suitable for mature plants. In general, this procedure is similar to a transplant. In the process, monitor the level of the soil - the roots should be buried in the same way as in the old pot or a little more. They are extremely sensitive. If left outdoors, the plant will quickly become ill and die.
6. If necessary, tie the anthurium to a support. It is necessary to estimate in advance whether it will be needed, because it is placed in a pot before the flower is placed there, and not stuck into the ground after the transplant is completed.

Rooting side shoots

Lateral shoots - "offspring" of anthurium. This method of reproduction is provided by nature itself. Separate the "children" during transplantation. If you try to pull them out of the pot without touching the mother plant, the roots will suffer greatly. An adult anthurium may even die.

If transplantation is not expected in the near future, and the “offspring” is desperately needed, remove the plant from the pot, trying to destroy the earthen ball as little as possible. Manually carefully separate the side shoot (required with roots), return the “donor” to its place and add fresh substrate, closing the resulting void.

1. Fill small pots with pure sphagnum moss or a mixture of humus and perlite, vermiculite (1: 1). Moisten the substrate well.
2. Plant offspring in the ground. Cover the containers with glass caps, cut plastic bottles, place in transparent plastic bags, tying them tightly.
3. For rooting, anthuriums need a constant temperature of 28-32ºС and a humidity of 85% or more. Choose the brightest place in the room, but keep the "offspring" out of direct sunlight.
4. Remove the shelter for 10–15 minutes daily, airing the plantings, and spray the soil with a weak biostimulant solution (2–3 ml per liter of water).
5. After about a month, remove the "greenhouse". Put the pot in a permanent place.

Growing "male happiness" from the root

The method is very similar to the previous version, but takes more time. The roots (healthy and strong) are separated from the stem by hand during the transplant process. Germinate them in clean sand, perlite, vermiculite, constantly maintaining the substrate in a slightly damp state.

Shelter is removed no earlier than 1-2 true leaves appear. The process usually takes 1.5-2 months. A month later, you can enter the soil for adult anthuriums.

cuttings

The easiest way to get a new anthurium. At home, they resort to it most often. Planting material from a plant can be taken at any convenient time, but the best period for this is the end of spring or the beginning of summer. To do this, choose stems with a length of 12 cm or more, on which there are at least two leaves.

Anthurium stalk - a leaf cut along with part of the stem. Only the lower 5–8 cm are needed, so the leaf plate itself can be removed.

1. Sprinkle the “wound” on the mother plant with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, sifted wood ash, or grease with green, iodine.
2. Dry the cut cuttings outdoors for 10-15 minutes.
3. Plant them in small cups filled with a mixture of sand and peat chips (1: 1) or sphagnum moss. They need to be drilled with drainage holes first. The substrate must be dry. An alternative is root germination in water. It should be soft, warmed up to room temperature. Fluid must be changed daily. To speed up the process, water is replaced with a weak solution of a root stimulator, and the base of the cutting is sprinkled with any powdered preparation of a similar effect before being placed in the substrate. Do not deepen the planting material too much - only the lower 4-5 cm should be in the substrate or in the water.
4. Cover the containers with cuttings with plastic bags, glass caps, provide a temperature of 25-28ºС, bright diffused light and a humidity of about 80%. Once every 2-3 days, moisten the substrate, not allowing it to dry out, even the top layer.
5. Root buds will appear in a week. When they reach a length of 2–3 cm (after about 30–40 days), the anthuriums can be transplanted into soil suitable for adult plants. First, a pot with a diameter of no more than 10 cm is enough.

seed germination

The method is not very popular with amateur flower growers. Firstly, the procedure is quite time-consuming, and success is not guaranteed. Secondly, it is not a fact that a plant obtained from seeds will retain the varietal characteristics of the “parent”. Especially if it is an artificially bred hybrid. But on the other hand, this is a unique opportunity to act as a breeder and become the happy owner of anthurium, which no one else has. Flowering of such a specimen will have to wait at least three years.

Seeds can be easily purchased in specialized stores. Be sure to pay attention to the expiration date. Six months after harvest, it makes no sense to plant them anymore, germination does not last very long. It is best to use seeds collected no later than three months before purchase.

Planting material can also be obtained at home. To do this, you need at least two anthuriums. When one of them blooms, run a soft brush over the "cob", shaking the pollen onto a piece of paper. Place the collected in the refrigerator.

Wait for the "cob" to appear on the second plant and cross-pollinate (at the very beginning of flowering). The best time for this - a sunny morning. Spread the pollen with a cotton pad or fingers, moving first from the bottom up, then in the opposite direction. Repeat the procedure every day. Four or five times should be enough. In principle, you can try to pollinate the anthurium with your own pollen, but the likelihood of success is low.

After about a month, the cob will begin to “swell”. It will take 9-12 months for the fruit to fully ripen. When the spathe turns green, the bud is greenish brown, and the darkest berries look like they are about to fall out of it, remove the fruit. Delete upper shell, dry the seeds in the open air for 2-3 days, no more. Sow them as soon as possible.

Video: ripening anthurium seeds

1. Fill a shallow bowl with peat chips, moisten and level the substrate. Let the moisture soak in.
2. Soak the planting material in a pale pink potassium permanganate solution for 10-15 minutes. Then spread on a napkin or soft tissue to absorb excess moisture.
3. Spread the seeds evenly over the surface, sprinkle with soil a little (a layer of no more than 2–3 mm thick). Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap.
4. Provide bottom heating, temperature around 25ºС, bright diffused light. Open the "greenhouse" daily for 5-7 minutes to ventilate, spray the soil from a fine spray gun as it dries.
5. The first shoots appear in a week, mass - in 12-15 days. When the first true leaf is formed (about a month later), remove the greenhouse.
6. Plant plants with three leaves in separate cups with a diameter of 7–10 cm, filled with a mixture of peat, leafy soil and powdered charcoal (in equal proportions). Mandatory drainage, filling at least a third of the volume of the pot.
7. Care for young anthuriums as usual. Only when top dressing for six months, reduce the concentration of fertilizer in the solution by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer.

Video: seed anthurium

leaf reproduction

The method is not suitable for all types of plants. In this way, the anthuriums of Scherzer, Andre, leathery and other varieties with thick prominent veins on the leaves reproduce.

1. Cut the leaf along with a piece of petiole about 3 cm long.
2. Roll it up with a tube or funnel, drag it with a thin elastic band or thread. Don't overtighten.
3. Fill small deep pots with a mixture of peat with sand, perlite, vermiculite (1: 1). Bury the leaves 2/3 deep into the ground. An alternative is germination in boiled water at room temperature. It does not need to be defended, but it will have to be changed daily.
4. Water the plantings and cover the containers with glass caps or plastic bags.
5. Place the pots in light partial shade, provide a temperature of 25-27ºС. Bottom heating is not needed. Air the plantings daily, spray the substrate with a weak solution of a root stimulator.
6. After 20-25 days, a sprout should appear from the middle of the funnel. Wait another month and transplant the young anthurium into the soil for adult plants.

Possible problems and solutions

Anthurium is a rather delicate and capricious plant. The main danger that threatens him during reproduction is rot. Most often, its development is provoked by the florist himself, often and abundantly watering a young flower. The process is even faster if high humidity soil is combined with low room temperature.

Check young plants regularly. If you notice dark brown spots at the base of the stems and on the petioles of the leaves, small black dots on the leaf plate, immediately proceed to "resuscitation". Anthurium can be saved only at an early stage of the development of the disease. If the soil is covered with mold, an unpleasant putrefactive odor comes from it, most likely it is already too late, the plant can only be thrown away.

When anxiety symptoms appear:

1. Cut off all parts of the plant affected by the fungus to healthy tissues. Sprinkle “wounds” with crushed chalk, activated charcoal, cinnamon or treat with iodine, green paint.
2. Transplant the plant by completely changing the substrate and sterilizing the pot. Add Glyocladin, Trichodermin granules to the soil.
3. For 2-3 months, water the anthurium with a 0.5% solution of Alirin-B, Previkur, Baikal-EM instead of ordinary water.

If the leaves of a young plant droop, lose their tone, it most likely suffers from a lack of moisture or low temperature. Dangerous and its sharp fluctuations. To solve the problem, it is usually enough to adjust the watering, spray the plant daily and move the pot to a warmer place.

When the transplanted part of the anthurium looks good, but is not in a hurry to start growing, replace the water for irrigation with a solution of any biostimulator, having prepared it according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

In principle, problems with anthurium can be avoided if you study in advance the rules for caring for the plant and the “requirements” for the microclimate in the room. This applies to both adult flowers and young specimens.

• The optimum temperature after the "greenhouse" is removed is 20–24ºС. The minimum rate at which anthurium can still survive is 15–18ºС.
• In spring and summer, the plant is watered often and plentifully, sprayed several times a day. At the same time, stagnation of water in the pot should not be allowed. When transplanting, provide a layer of drainage of sufficient thickness, half an hour after the procedure, drain excess moisture from the pan.
• Anthurium needs very high humidity (85–90%). In the heat, raise it all accessible ways. Be sure to cover the soil in the pot with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. The root system of the plant is superficial, in young specimens the roots are very thin and tender, they dry out easily.
• Optimal lighting - bright diffused light. But the plant must be protected from direct sunlight.
• Fertilizer deficiency for anthurium is preferable than their excess. And the flower does not tolerate an increased concentration of mineral salts in the soil at all. Therefore, it is better to use natural organic matter (humus, infusions of bird droppings or cow dung diluted with water). Leave complex mineral liquid fertilizers for foliar top dressing.

A new anthurium can be obtained from almost any part of the mother plant. This is a definite plus for a capricious and demanding flower. The specific method of reproduction is selected depending on the variety, appearance and the state of anthurium-"parent". Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, which are taken into account when determining your course of action.

The anthurium plant has gained popularity as indoor culture only at the end of the last century. Today, for those who prefer to grow tropical plants, about 30 species and more than 80 hybrid forms of evergreen anthurium are available. At home, you can successfully start flowering or decorative leafy varieties, and even exotic creepers or tree species. We will talk about how to grow this real pride of many flower growers further.

Many believe that anthuriums are capricious houseplants. However, if you follow the rules of care, the plant will delight you with beautiful flowering throughout the summer.

To do this, you need to know that Anthurium loves rooms with high humidity, so it needs daily spraying. The humidity of the air should be especially carefully monitored during the period when heating season. It is advisable to spray the plant in the morning and evening. In summer, you can even cover the plant with damp gauze. 2 times a year, the plant can be bathed, the water should be warm, and after such a procedure, the plant should be allowed to dry completely in a dark place to avoid sunburn.

Air temperature in the room in which the anthurium is located, should not fall below 18 degrees C. The temperature of the soil should also not be lower than the temperature environment so it is better to use plastic rather than ceramic pots. The plant loves light., but much depends on the type of plant.

So, Scherzer's Anthurium needs less sunlight than Andre's Anthurium, although it is better to try to shade the latter.

What soil to plant anthurium

The soil is very important for anthurium, since under natural conditions the plant grows in the lower tier of the tropics, and some representatives of this genus have become epiphytes. Therefore, it is desirable to use a special substrate for epiphytes. If you can’t find one, then you can mix the substrate for Azalea with expanded clay, peat, pine bark, sphagnum. The substrate is loose, airy, breathable and moisture-absorbing - the ideal substrate for anthurium.

You can also plant this houseplant in acidic soil with expanded clay added, or a substrate designed for begonias with the addition of sphagnum and perlite. In general, for planting anthurium, you can use the mixture in the following proportions: 1 part of leafy land: 1 part of coniferous land: 1 part of peat: 0.5 sand with the addition of bark conifers and charcoal. There are examples when anthurium is planted in clean moss without additives and earth. A definite plus in this case is that there is no need to monitor the humidity of the air, since the moss provides both moisture and the necessary breathability.

In any case, the ground for anthurium should be acidic, and alkali should not be present either in the water that is watered or in the soil.

Questions about watering

The issue of watering must be approached carefully. Anthurium can not be both overdried and poured.

Waterlogging leads to rotting of the roots, and therefore to the further death of the plant. It should be watered according to the condition of the soil, but the earthen coma should not be allowed to dry out. It is important that there is no stagnation of water in the pan!

An interesting question about watering from the forum:

Anthurium fell ill, began to rot, decided to transplant, and saw that at the bottom of the pot wet ground. Who would have thought, the ground was dry from above and also dry at the level of the nail. Please advise, how long should I not water it, or is there nothing to hope for?

Answer: inspect the roots carefully cleaned from the ground, if there are rotten ones, cut them off and sprinkle with charcoal. Wait for the cuts to dry. Fill the pot 1/3 with drainage, add chopped sphagnum, pine bark or perlite to the aroid mixture. Before planting, treat the roots with a fungicide, the leaves with epin, put the transplanted plant under a bag for 10 days. And don't flood! Better spray.

Questions about reproduction

Anthurium is propagated by division during transplantation. When dividing, the roots must be carefully untangled so as not to damage them.

The answer to the question asked at the forum on the issue of rejuvenation A. Andre.

To rejuvenate A. Andre, the elongated stem must be wrapped with wet sphagnum moss and tied with a transparent bag. Moisturize the moss daily with a spray bottle. After the appearance of new roots, cut off the stalk with developed roots, and, together with sphagnum, transplant into a greenhouse or container. Remove the package first.

Questions related to anthurium transplantation discussed at one of the flower forums:
- I bought Anthurium Andre. The plant requires a transplant, but it is recommended to transplant only in the spring, I'm afraid that after transplanting it will disappear.

Answer: it is better in this case to make the transfer of the plant into a pot a little larger in diameter than before and remove the top layer of soil a little, if possible, without exposing the roots. If you find aerial roots, cover them with damp moss or sprinkle them with the same soil.

General rules for transshipment: if you purchased a pot that is suitable in size and height for a plant with an earthy clod, then pour a little substrate on the bottom, crush it and place a clod with roots in it. After that, pour the substrate in a circle, filling the distance between the walls of the pot and the lump.

Watering should be done when the substrate inside is dry to the touch? pot height.

The water temperature for irrigation should not be lower than +30 °C, but not higher than +40 °C.

If, after transplanting / transshipment, for better adaptation, you place the plant under plastic bag, then the plant will not need watering in the near future. Learn it. For ventilation, the bag should be removed periodically.

Is it possible to transplant flowering anthurium

Answer: you can transplant, because the flowers of the aroid are persistent (keep up to 3 weeks) and the plant will not drop them. But recommended flowering plants should not be transplanted, but transshipped. This should be done carefully so as not to damage the earthen clod. Put the flower in a bright place.

In general, a transplant is done every three years in the spring, choosing a pot a little larger than the previous one for the plant so that the anthurium blooms well. It is desirable that it be a wide pot with good drainage. Roots above the ground should be covered with moss and moistened regularly.

If the anthurium does not bloom…

In this case, it is advisable to fertilize once a week with the Kemira Lux complex fertilizer, during the flowering period - use fertilizer for flowering plants. and rearrange the anthurium to a brighter place, but without direct sunlight on it. The room temperature must not fall below 18 °C! Anthurium does not like drafts.

The pot should be slightly larger than its root system. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged.

If the anthurium has large yellow spots on the leaves, then the plant's nutrition is not balanced. If the spots are small, then perhaps they were damaged by a spider mite.

Question from the forum:

Tell me why the edges of the flowers of Anthurium Andre (red) are green?

Answer: most likely, he does not have enough light, and perhaps the flower is already old: aroids have the properties to turn green in old age.

Question: How long is the dormant period, and what kind of care is required during this period?

Answer: for September-February, the temperature should be 15-16 ° C, watered regularly, humidity should be high, do not feed.

One of the methods of decorating a house is the presence of indoor plants, including exclusive flowers.

A striking representative of the exclusive in the house is anthurium with its spectacular appearance and fragrant smell. If you were given an anthurium as a gift or you purchased it yourself, home care should be special, since its natural habitat is the tropics. Growing anthurium at home is not an easy task, but by following the basic rules, you can achieve results.

In the people, anthurium is called "male happiness." The reason why such a name appeared was the shape of the anthurium flower - a protruding large cob surrounded by a bright petal. This form causes people to associate with one distinctive feature structure of the male body. But the imagination of the people did not stop there; anthurium is constantly acquiring new nicknames: "flamingo flower", "tail flower", "artist's palette", etc.

It is interesting not only how anthurium blooms. In addition to the original flowers, it has colorful leaves: large plates of rich green in the form of a heart or an arrow. The smell of anthurium varies from fetid to fragrant, depending on its type and variety. Anthurium in an apartment or house grows up to 40 or even 70 cm in height.

When purchasing this spectacular flower, one must not forget about precautions: since the plant is poisonous, pets and small children must be protected from its poison.

Competent care

Anthurium can be provided with conditions as close to natural as possible, even in a typical apartment or private house.

Temperature regime

Anthurium needs warmth without drafts for life. For a comfortable existence, he needs a temperature in the region of 16-30 ° C, and in the spring and summer, the room should be above 20 °, and in cold weather - 16-18 °. Anthurium blooms at temperatures above average, so if necessary, it early flowering it is necessary to provide him with this increase in temperature.

Watering

Abundant watering of anthurium is contraindicated. It is better to water the anthurium with settled water at room temperature once every 3-4 days. Before watering, it is worth checking the soil moisture - sometimes it is better to dry the flower than to fill it. After watering in a pot or in a pan, there should be no water left.

Air humidity

"Male happiness" needs high humidity(above 80%), which is difficult to create at home without special devices. The main helpers here are a humidifier, a regular “shower” from a spray bottle and timely rubbing of the leaves. You can cover the upper roots, trunk and stems with sphagnum so that they retain moisture. The best option would be to use dishes with water in the immediate vicinity of the flowerpot: this is how the effect of water evaporation is most similar to the conditions of a tropical forest.

Lighting

Anthurium, like many representatives of the tropics, is a photophilous plant, however direct impact the rays of the sun are contraindicated for him. The presence of soft, diffused light is necessary, so the pot is placed on the windowsills of windows facing the northwest or east. In the cold winter, "male happiness" especially needs light, but should not be exposed to directional sunlight. Incorrectly chosen lighting can be the reason why the leaves of the plant dry.

Soil selection

Anthurium requires slightly acidic soil (pH level is 5.5-6.5). There are several options for preparing a suitable soil:

• a mixture of sand, peat, unsifted leafy soil and humus in a ratio of 0.5: 1: 1: 2 (finely chopped foam, charcoal or pieces of broken brick are used for optimal water and air permeability),
• soil from soddy soil, sphagnum and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 2 (add foam, perlite or coarse sand),
• purchased soil and pine bark, mixed equally (usually such a mixture is used for orchids), an additional ingredient is moss.

top dressing

For better growth and development of anthurium during the period of growth and flowering, it is worth feeding it every 2-3 weeks. When top dressing, organic and mineral fertilizers in turn, just do not overdo it by using mineral salts or lime.

Pot selection

Capacity for any flowers must match their size. When a flower grows out of a small pot, a transplant is necessary. If a small plant is in a large pot, it will most likely be flooded. A giant, placed in a small dish, will not bloom and will cease to develop. The best way- flat and wide plastic flowerpots with several holes for drainage. In order for the roots to "breathe", it is advisable to make holes in the side parts of the pot at the time when the transplant is carried out.

Transplant and reproduction

At a young age, anthurium needs regular transplant, and at first you will have to deal with the resettlement of the flower annually, and then only once every 3-4 years, and each time the plant will need to be settled deeper and deeper. Anthurium transplantation is possible even when it blooms. Since it has very fragile roots, stems and leaves, the transplant should be as gentle as possible.

When transplanting, it is especially important to monitor the safety of the roots. If they are damaged, they should be sprinkled with activated charcoal to disinfect them.

When the transplant is completed, it is better not to water the anthurium for some time (covered with polyethylene to create the effect of a greenhouse) or water it quite a bit.

Reproduction of anthurium at home involves several options:

- One of the options is used when a transplant is carried out. Anthurium is taken out of the pot, separating the side shoots from the main one and carefully unraveling the roots so as not to damage the root system.

- Another option - propagation by seeds - is a very laborious, lengthy and not always effective process:

• first, it is necessary to carry out artificial pollination, for which pollen is transferred from flower to flower with an ordinary brush,
• when the fruits-berries ripen (about a year later), they must be collected,
  then you need to remove the seeds from the berries and rinse them under running water,
• then the seeds must be placed in potassium permanganate for several hours to prevent mold,
• for germination, the seeds are placed on wet foam rubber, which is then placed in a small container and covered with polyethylene,
• germinated seeds will be planted in the ground and swooped several times,
• when the seedling grows to 7 cm, it can already be planted in a pot with suitable soil.

Possible problems

Although for happiness male happiness You need to try, illnesses are rare for him. Some mistakes in care can be the reason why the plant dies, but anthurium has practically no diseases as such. Individual phenomena are the consequences of certain errors in cultivation:

• the leaves are covered with small black dots or spots - the anthurium is cold,
• spots appear on the petal - water accidentally got on it,
• the edges of the leaves have turned black - the soil is not suitable (an urgent transplant is needed),
• rotten roots and the base of the leaves are visible - the plant is watered excessively,
• leaves dry and turn yellow - wrong light (leaves dry with any mistake: and from direct influence sun, and from lack of light),
• an adult plant does not bloom for a long time - the pot is incorrectly selected (a transplant into a flowerpot is required that is suitable in size).

Diseases can be associated with the activity of pests: scale insects, mealybug, aphids, spider mite. To protect the anthurium from attack, it is necessary to regularly wipe its stems and leaves with water.

From the outside, caring for an anthurium seems very difficult, but it will not be difficult for responsible housewives to grow a healthy plant at home that will become a real decoration of the house.

In contact with