Wooden houses have always been famous for their special properties. They are reliable, comfortable, durable, practical and beautiful, but, like any other building, they need additional thermal insulation. The roof of a wooden house is a structural element that needs to be insulated first. It accounts for significant heat losses, regardless of what shape and design it has. How to insulate the roof of a wooden house? What materials will be needed for this? Let's try to figure it out in order to perform roof insulation work correctly and without additional financial costs.
Detailed video instruction on roof insulation
What is the process of insulating the roof of a wooden house
Warming the roof of a wooden house is a laborious process that includes several stages. At the first stage, waterproofing of the roof space is performed. As a waterproofing coating, it is best to use membrane or polyethylene films. They are more durable, practical and affordable. At the second stage, a heater is installed, on top of which a roofing is laid if the method of external roof insulation is chosen. If the attic space was insulated, heat-insulating materials are most often hidden with fiberboard or MDF sheets, thereby improving the appearance of the roof and creating additional sound insulation.
It is important to remember: the insulation of the roof of a wooden house not only improves the microclimate in the rooms, but also reduces heating costs by up to 40%.
In winter, insulation retains heat in the house, in summer it protects the building from exposure to ultraviolet radiation and heat. Its service life largely depends on the correct installation and strict observance of technical requirements, on average it is 10 - 15 years.
The choice of materials for thermal insulation of the roof structure
The range of heaters presented for sale on the market is diverse. Mineral and stone wool, glass wool, expanded polyester, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene - it would seem, what could be easier than choosing the right material? But, nevertheless, in order not to uselessly spend money, it is important to keep in mind that for the internal insulation of the roof of a wooden house, it is most appropriate to choose mineral wool, polyester and expanded polystyrene mats.
For external thermal insulation of a flat roof of a wooden house, loose and liquid heaters are perfect. They have high technical properties, low thermal conductivity, fire resistance and environmental friendliness.
Important: when choosing insulation materials for the roof of a wooden house, you should pay attention not only to their cost, but also to their service life. It must correspond to the service life of the roofing. Otherwise, the roof will have to be covered.
What are the requirements for a thermal insulation layer of a roof?
Thermal insulation materials, regardless of their type, must meet the following requirements:
- comply with environmental regulations, in other words, do not pose a threat to human health and the environment, contain a minimum of toxic substances and formaldehydes in its composition;
When installing insulation, it is important to follow the sequence of technical work
- have low thermal conductivity. It is recommended, as an alternative to insulation for the roof of a wooden house, to choose a material with a thermal conductivity of not more than 0.04 W / m ° C, otherwise it will not fully cope with its main tasks;
- differ in low volumetric weight. Insulation materials should not carry a large load on the roof truss structure;
- - keep in shape. Most often, light materials are used to insulate the roof of a wooden house; they should not be crushed under the pressure of their own weight;
- have high vapor permeability. The created layer of thermal insulation should help to remove accumulated steam and moisture from under the roof space, otherwise its decay cannot be avoided;
- have good soundproofing properties. It is desirable that the selected insulation protects the house not only from the cold, but also from extraneous sounds, contributing to the creation of a comfortable environment in the rooms;
- be fire resistant. Thermal insulation materials should not contribute to the spread of fire in case of fire;
- have sufficient density. Its minimum indicator is 15 kg / m 3. The higher it is, the better the thermal insulation properties of the structure.
It should be taken into account: it does not matter which company produced the insulation, the main thing is that it fully complies with all the above requirements.
Methods of internal and external thermal insulation of the roof of wooden buildings
There are two main ways of thermal insulation of the roof - internal and external. How to insulate the roof of a wooden house is the best and easiest way? Internal thermal insulation is considered less costly and time-consuming. It does not require the dismantling of the roofing and preparatory work, it is carried out quickly and simply: waterproofing is laid on the crate - a membrane or polyethylene film, it is attached with ordinary building brackets, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid on top of it. The most commonly used sheets are mineral wool or polyester.
External thermal insulation of the roof is a more labor-intensive process that requires special compliance with technical regulations and building codes. In its course, a layer of hydro- and thermal insulation is laid on the wooden crate, on top of which the roofing is laid. During installation, it is important to do all the work correctly and make sure that the insulation does not wrinkle. If such a mistake is made, not only will the service life of thermal insulation be reduced several times, but its quality will also deteriorate significantly.
It is better to entrust the external thermal insulation of the roof of a wooden house to specialists, since the process has many important technical nuances.
Despite the fact that the insulation of the roof of a wooden house is simple and easy, it is not recommended to rely on one's own strength. Only experienced professionals, versed in the issue of roofing heat-insulating work, can install the insulation so that it performs the assigned functional tasks as efficiently as possible and contributes to significant savings in heat resources spent on heating. Any mistake made during the selection of material and work may cause additional financial and time costs.
In order for the roof over your head to be reliable, and the dwelling warm and cozy, one roof alone is not enough. It is necessary to insulate the roof in a wooden house from the inside, only it guarantees full heating of the room, with minimal heat loss. There will be no need for extra spending on heating: in any weather, the house will be comfortable.
Physical processes in the space under the roof
Under the roof of the house there are processes that determine the choice of materials for insulation: Moisture exchange. Vapors that occur during human life (breathing, cooking) rise up to the roof. In the presence of high-quality insulation of the roof of a wooden house, the level of humidity in the room will be optimal. Heat exchange. The heated room air rises to the roof, through which part of the heat goes outside. A layer of insulation prevents this, maintaining a comfortable temperature inside the house. Condensation. Moisture droplets are formed when cold air comes into contact with hot air, settling on the roof. This leads to increased humidity, from which the materials gradually deteriorate. A layer of high-quality waterproofing can save you from trouble.
Types of heaters
The structure and type of insulation material will depend on the structure of the roof, pitched or flat. There are several such in modern construction markets.
Mineral and ecowool
This material is a insulation with a fibrous structure. This is an interweaving of thin fibers, between which there are layers of still air. Mineral wool is of two types. The first, glass wool, is formed from a melt of quartz glass. Basalt rocks are involved in the production of the second. The resulting material is called stone (basalt) wool. Glass wool as a heater has several positive qualities:
- Flexibility. The material is suitable for thermal insulation of areas with complex geometry, without the need for additional cutting.
- Ease. Due to its low specific gravity, glass wool does not exert a significant load on the roof, and its installation does not require excessive physical effort.
- Elasticity. It is possible to lay glass wool in a space somewhat smaller than the insulation block itself. Transportation of compactly laid mats is also very convenient due to the elasticity.
In addition to the positive aspects in the use of this material, there are also disadvantages:
- Glass wool is hygroscopic. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to vapor and waterproofing.
- Fragility of fibers. Small particles of glass, getting on the skin, cause irritation and an allergic reaction. When working, you will have to use protective equipment (gloves, respirators).
- Emission of formaldehyde. It is impossible to do without the use of such substances in the production of insulation. But manufacturers of quality glass wool are trying to reduce the emission rate. Their products can be used in residential wooden houses and medical facilities.
Basalt wool has a number of advantages over glass wool: The fibers of this material are more flexible, as a result, they break less. Stone wool does not cause a strong negative reaction in the body. However, it is undesirable to neglect protective measures when working with it. Good vapor permeability. Humid air that has fallen on the material does not linger in it, evaporating through the ventilation gaps. Thanks to a special treatment, basalt material absorbs much less moisture than glass wool. The emission of formaldehyde is kept within the normal range, this is evidenced by sanitary certificates with permission for use in residential premises. It is useful to ask for a copy of this document when buying a heater. The flexibility of stone wool slabs makes installation easy. Some manufacturers, such as Rockwool, create a material whose edges are slightly springy. So it is easier to carry out laying between beams, rafters.
The downside of basalt wool is only its higher price.
Another fiber insulation that has appeared on the market relatively recently is ecowool. It can be based on wood and paper processing waste. The content of cellulose in the material is from 80 to 85%. The rest is additives that provide biological stability (boric acid) and flame retardants that reduce the fire hazard. Advantages of ecowool:
- Eco-friendly. The components of the material are natural.
- Resistant to fungus, mold, decay - thanks to special processing. Rodents and insects do not settle in ecowool.
- This insulation is considered low-flammable. When ignited, it quickly decays, does not emit toxic substances into the air.
- Not afraid of moisture. The material is quite hygroscopic, but the moisture from it evaporates without causing harm.
There are two ways to insulate a roof with ecowool: dry and wet. In the second case, the material is moistened with an adhesive solution and sprayed onto the slopes. But since the consumption of insulation during such processing is quite large, ecowool is more often sprayed into the cavities created by vapor barrier membranes or the inner lining of the attic. Minuses:
- For spraying, even in a dry way, you will need a special installation.
- When working with ecowool, the help of an experienced builder may be required.
- The process of treating the roof with insulation is quite dusty, you will have to use closed clothing and a respirator.
- Despite the reasonable cost, ecowool is quite expensive. The price of the services of the masters is almost equal to the price of the insulation itself.
Features of expanded polystyrene
Extruded polystyrene foam is a synthetic material akin to the familiar polystyrene foam. When using it as a heater, it is worth bearing in mind some features of the material:
- Compared to Styrofoam, Styrofoam is much more durable.
- The insulation properties of the material are also higher.
- Expanded polystyrene, thanks to special additives, does not ignite well and quickly fades in case of fire.
- This material is durable and resistant to moisture.
- Due to the rather complex production technology, which only large, proven companies can do, low-quality material is almost never found on the markets.
The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its rigidity. It is difficult to fit a material with a similar structure to the size of the area; when laying, gaps will inevitably remain. They will need to be sealed with mounting foam. Another disadvantage of synthetic materials is the release of toxic substances during combustion. But if extruded polystyrene foam is almost non-flammable, then the foam is quite flammable. Therefore, it is not advisable to use it as a heater. One of the most popular brands of synthetic insulation is Penoplex. This name has become a household name for the designation of expanded polystyrene.
Application of polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam refers to sprayed foam insulation. It fits well on the treated surface, has no seams that let cold through, and has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, the material is almost vapor-tight, which makes it possible to save on vapor barrier. With all the advantages, the insulation itself is not cheap. Synthesize it with the help of special installations, directly at the place of work. This will require additional costs for calling the masters. You can buy disposable spraying devices, but they are almost as expensive as calling a brigade.
The use of expanded clay
Expanded clay is one of the most popular materials for roof insulation in a house made of timber or brick. It is the result of firing clay at high temperature in a special kiln. There are three types of expanded clay, differing in size:
- expanded clay gravel (5–40 mm);
- expanded clay crushed stone (crushed granules, 5–40 mm);
- expanded clay sand (up to 5 mm).
You can use the material of several fractions at once. But the advice to insulate the roof with gravel is more common among professionals than others. The positive properties of this type of thermal insulation:
- bulk material has no seams and does not need fasteners;
- expanded clay is environmentally friendly, it does not emit toxic fumes;
- the material is not destroyed by mice or insects;
- expanded clay is refractory;
- heat losses during its use are significantly reduced;
- the soundproofing of the room is improved.
The disadvantages of bulk insulation are its weight, which gives an additional load on the supporting structures, abundant absorption of moisture by the material and its fragility, leading to a violation of the integrity of the granules. This leads to a decrease in the level of thermal insulation.
Features of the sprayed materials
One of the most convenient and practical are foamy spray compositions, characterized by low thermal conductivity:
- Mounting foam - polyurethane foam sealant in aerosol packages.
- Penoizol - "liquid foam."
- Sprayed polyurethane.
Advantages of using sprayed materials:
- Quality adhesion. The fit to the material is very tight, without gaps.
- Lack of cold bridges, joints, seams.
- Ease of handling difficult areas.
- The speed of application of the composition.
- Improving the sound insulation of the room.
- Ease. These materials do not give additional load on the roof.
- Immunity to pathogenic microflora. Also, insects will not start in this heater.
Foam insulation is in good contact not only with wood, but also with metal, additionally protecting it from corrosion. Minuses:
- Applying foam insulation may require special skills and equipment, which will result in additional costs.
- The price of the material itself is quite high.
- The components for obtaining the spray composition release toxins into the air, so personal protective equipment will be needed during operation. After the composition hardens, it becomes harmless.
The structure of the layers of insulation
There is such a thing as "warming pie" or "roofing pie". This is a set of protective layers that ensure the comfort of the room. All layers in this "pie" go in a certain sequence. Each of them has its own function:
- overheat protection;
- prevention of precipitation;
- protection against accumulation of condensate in the roof;
- keeping warm air in the room.
The sequence of arrangement of layers of insulation from the attic to the roof:
- Vapor barrier. Protects the roof from moisture evaporating inside the house.
- Thermal insulation. This layer retains air, which in turn retains heat.
- Waterproofing. A layer that prevents precipitation from entering the insulation.
Methods for thermal insulation
Depending on the type of roof, its insulation can be carried out in two ways. Insulation of a flat roof begins with lining the floors with a vapor barrier film. The joints are sealed with tape. Then the insulation is laid. As a waterproofing, you can take roofing material by laying a heat-insulating layer with an overlap of 10 cm. Additionally, a layer of expanded clay is added for sound insulation. If the ceiling height allows, you can insulate the roof from the inside of a wooden house - this applies to buildings with a flat roof. To do this, a crate is attached to the ceiling, a vapor barrier is placed on top. Insulation boards are laid under it. From below, the crate is sheathed with decorating material. Before proceeding with the device for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, it is necessary to calculate the dew point and exclude the possibility of condensation on the insulation.
When installing a mansard pitched roof, the outer walls and the bottom of the roof should be insulated. Inside, the roof is insulated by covering the rafters and the space between them with a waterproofing film. Fix the film with a stapler. Then insulation is laid between the beams. It must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier material and finished with drywall, clapboard or other finishing material. Insulation of the mansard roof begins with the laying of a waterproofing film, on which counter-rails are hammered for ventilation. Then the insulation is tightly laid. The bottom layer will be a waterproofing material glued at the joints with adhesive tape. Next comes the finishing material.
Work performance technology
Having familiarized yourself with the technology for performing work, having learned how to properly insulate the roof, it is no longer difficult to do it yourself. A minimum of building skills and high-quality materials for work will help to cope with this task. It is best to insulate the roof during construction. It is desirable to remove the old roof. If this is not possible, it may be difficult to install materials between the rafters.
Calculation of the thickness of the insulation
α ut = (R 0 priv -0.16) λ ut This is how the formula for calculating the required thickness of the insulation looks like, where: α ut is the thickness of the heater, m. R 0 priv is the reduced resistance to heat transfer of the coating, m 2 ° С / W, the higher it is, the better the thermal insulation properties of the material and the less it will be needed. The value can be found in the tables, it depends on the location of the settlement where the premises are located. λ ut is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation, W / (m ° C), it is indicated by the manufacturer on the material. Substituting certain values into the formula, you can calculate what is the optimal thickness of the insulation for the roof.
Cutting materials
Fibrous insulation boards are cut (you can do this with a construction knife) so that they fit snugly against the rafters. To do this, leave an additional allowance of 10-15 mm. More rigid polymer plates are cut exactly to size.
Waterproofing
Both a diffuse membrane and a simple waterproofing film can be used as a hydrobarrier. The condensate in both cases lingers on the material. But on the film, it settles from the side of the insulation, and on the membrane from the outer, roofing side. The advantage of a diffuse membrane is obvious, so it is recommended to use it. The waterproofing material is laid with the waterproof side up. You need to start from the bottom, moving towards the top of the roof. The membrane must be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm, gluing the joints with adhesive tape. It is not necessary to strongly stretch the material so that it is not damaged during a slight deformation, inevitable in the winter cold. For one meter, it is enough to leave a margin of about two centimeters. Waterproofing is attached to the rafters using a construction stapler. Ventilation rails are attached over the membrane using galvanized self-tapping screws.
Insulation installation
If a fibrous material is used as a heater, it must be laid out on a flat surface and left until it takes its original shape. Then cut the material. The resulting fragments are laid between the rafters. To straighten the edges bent during laying, you need to press on the middle of the insulation sheet. You can spray polyurethane foam or other similar material between the rafters. On sale there are special cylinders with compositions for foaming.
Vapor barrier device
The vapor barrier material can be laid either vertically or horizontally. In the second case, laying starts from the top. Each layer is applied to the previous one with an overlap of 10 cm. The seams are sealed with adhesive tape. Installation is carried out using a stapler or galvanized nails. After that, you can fill the slats for ventilation and proceed to the installation of the outer covering of the attic. A competent choice of insulation and its proper installation will save not only the warmth and comfort of the house, but also money for heating. In addition, a protected roof will last longer without repairs and additional treatments.
Without high-quality thermal insulation at home, it will not be possible to save on heating in the winter. Walls and floors are not all ways through which heat leaves a living space. In addition to them, it is also necessary to insulate the roof.
Scheme of internal insulation
A kind of cake is a high-quality roof insulation from the inside, consisting in almost all cases of three main layers:
- Waterproofing
- thermal insulation
- vapor barrier
However, the basis of the entire structure is the truss system, which will act as a base link. Inside it is easiest to lay a heat-insulating layer.
Properly selected materials for each of the layers of the cake are the basis of high-quality insulation. The market is rich in various products, but you should not pay attention only to cheap options, preferring the golden mean.
The main purpose of the waterproofing layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from outside. It, accumulating inside it, destroys the structure of the material and renders it unusable. The task of the vapor barrier layer is to keep rising vapors out.
To protect against wet environments, special membrane or film materials are used. The permeability indicators of the former are better, but their market value is more expensive. Since it will not be possible to ensure complete sealing of the insulation, it is necessary to provide for ventilation gaps and seams.
Introductory video on the insulation of a pitched roof in a house
Choosing a thermal insulation material
Many manufacturers offer consumers a wide variety of heat insulators, each of which has positive and negative sides. Among all the performance characteristics, special attention is paid to the following:
- The level of moisture absorption - the lower this ability of the materials in question, the longer their service life can be expected
- Thermal conductivity - it should be as low as possible. However, this indicator is relative, since an increase in porosity and importance can significantly worsen it.
- Insulators with low density have much better thermal insulation performance.
Material selection video
Your attention should also be paid to such characteristics as environmental friendliness, chemical resistance, flammability and frost resistance.
The most widespread for roof insulation from the inside are mineral wool and glass wool. They have all the necessary characteristics and are relatively easy to use.
Expanded polystyrene is no less popular. In addition to high thermal insulation properties, it practically does not absorb moisture, is durable and tough, resistant to high temperatures and open fire. A significant disadvantage is the susceptibility to settling by rodents. That is why it has not received wide distribution.
Other, less common methods of internal insulation are also possible:
- The use of spraying is one of the most expensive methods, which is recommended to be entrusted to a professional master. If it is necessary to insulate an ordinary attic, and not - you should choose this method. Material costs will pay off with operational characteristics
- Insulation with liquid compositions (polyurethane foam or foam concrete) is not very popular, as it requires the use of specialized equipment for work
If thermal insulation of a classic attic space is necessary, an additional one is made above the ceiling (expanded clay, sawdust, sand, etc.).
Let's start warming the roof with our own hands
The most common case is the insulation of pitched roofs using rolled materials. First of all, you need to draw up instructions for yourself, following which you can count on a high quality result. Consider the case when the roof has not yet been laid.
First, you need to go through the attic again and make sure that all the components are in perfect order. If defects are found (rotting, cracks, etc.), they should be repaired immediately.
Sometimes various communication systems are laid on the roof: electrical wiring, heating, water supply, etc. They are also subject to thorough inspection and elimination of defects. Only after the establishment of order can proceed to further work.
The first step is to apply a waterproofing film to the outer surface. In order for it to fulfill its purpose, several rules must be considered:
- It is necessary to lay the film across, while at the joints an overlay of strips of about a meter is made, which is glued with adhesive tape
- It is necessary to select material for waterproofing only after purchasing a heater so that they match each other in terms of characteristics
- In no case should you pull it tightly over the surface. At sub-zero temperatures, it will begin to shrink and, as a result, may burst
Having completed work with waterproofing, it is necessary to proceed with the arrangement of the crate. For her, bars treated with antiseptic materials with a size of no more than 25 mm are recommended. Corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws are used for fixing
Roofing materials can be attached directly to the crate. Things will be a little different with a soft roof. Between it and the wood, it is recommended to place moisture-resistant drywall or chipboard.
The next stage is the laying of heat-insulating material in the gaps between the rafters. It is recommended to adjust the slabs according to the width between the rafter opening, the mats are cut into pieces equal to each other.
The material is laid in such a way that there are no gaps between the elements. It should also not be pressed very tightly against the roof so that there is a ventilation gap.
Another feature is the laying of heat-insulating material not in one, but in two layers. At the same time, they are located relative to each other with an offset so that the through joints close.
Having finished laying the insulation, you can proceed to the next step - tensioning and fastening the vapor barrier film or membrane. It is recommended to nail it to the rafters with staples. It, unlike waterproofing, stretches much denser.
Next, you can proceed to the final stage of roof insulation from the inside - interior decoration. A wooden frame is stuffed over the vapor barrier film, to which the desired finishing material will be attached.
Video on thermal insulation with polyurethane foam
Some Helpful Tips
Insulating the roof from the inside, not everything can go as smoothly as it seems at first. In addition, any truss system has its own characteristics.
We list a number of rules that may come in handy when performing work on roof insulation:
- Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier when working with mineral heaters. They are most susceptible to the accumulation of moisture inside, causing a destructive effect.
- Sometimes, under a light roof, the roof truss system is erected from a beam of small section. In this case, you will have to use a combined thermal insulation method, placing the material not only between the beams, but also under them.
- When the step of the rafter system is too large, the insulation is additionally fixed with a wire, which is pulled between the screws screwed into the rafters
- So that the insulation is not tightly located between the rafters, its width must be greater than the similar characteristic of the openings
- Do not make too many layers of insulation. For example, for thermal insulation with a thickness of 20 cm, two layers of 10 cm each will be better than four layers of 5 cm each.
- The insulation can be placed close to the super diffusion membrane. In all other cases, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap
- It is necessary to monitor the ventilation gaps, which should not be blocked by heat-insulating material
In custody
Absolutely everyone can make high-quality roof insulation from the inside, which will serve for decades, reliably retaining heat and keeping cold out. However, for those who do not want to waste their time and energy, professionals offer their services. The cost of work can vary between 5-25 USD. e. per square.
For the winter period, you must definitely prepare in advance. Especially the owners of private houses. To do this, it is necessary not only to purchase a sufficient amount of firewood or coal, but also to take care of the general insulation of the house. And you need to pay attention to both the walls and the roof. After all, the insulation of the roof of a wooden house from the inside will provide an optimal microclimate in the living rooms, increasing the average temperature in each room by several degrees. In such a house it will be warm even in the most severe frosts. The thermal insulation of the roof, performed in accordance with all the rules, will reduce the cost of operating the house, increase its durability and make living conditions more comfortable.
Wooden house
What are the benefits of roof insulation?
The reason for the appearance of significant heat loss is natural air exchange and thermal radiation. As it heats up, the air rises. This causes the ceiling to warm up, which can be very cold if the roof is not well insulated. If there is no thermal insulation, a lot of heat will need to be given off. Moreover, this process will occur continuously.
Properly made roof insulation will not only maintain the temperature in the living room at the desired level, but also significantly increase the durability of the rafters and beams used in the construction of the roof structure.
This is achieved by eliminating the ingress of moisture into the attic, which inevitably leads to rotting of the wooden structure. As a result, the bearing capacity of beams and rafters is sharply reduced, and the roof has to be repaired every 3-4 years.
Insulation - mineral wool
The presence of an insulated roof will allow not only to retain heat in cold weather, but also save from overheating in the hot season. That is why it is quite comfortable in a wooden house when it is sweltering heat outside.
In addition, roof insulation quite often allows you to significantly expand useful residential assistance. After all, even a very cold room can be made warm in this way, and this must be used to improve your living conditions.
When is the best time to insulate the roof?
Roof insulation should be started only after the shrinkage of the new log house. As a rule, on average, this takes about six months. During this time, various defects may appear on the roof, among the most common in this case are all kinds of distortions, cracks. They must be removed before work begins. In this case, the insulation will be of high quality.
If we talk about seasonality, then it all depends on your personal preferences. Most often, the roof is insulated in the summer, and in the winter they check the quality of the work performed.
Which heater should be preferred?
Modern heaters are different:
- fire safety;
- excellent thermal insulation properties;
- low weight;
- environmental friendliness;
- ease of installation;
- versatility, which allows you to use the same material for insulation of different roofing systems;
- long service life.
Manufacturers offer a fairly large range. At the same time, delivery can be made in the form of mats, rolled material and in bulk. If desired, you can always choose the appropriate option for the price factor. In particular, you can insulate the roof using:
The choice of a specific material will depend on the type of insulated roof and those who have financial capabilities. If you decide to purchase a cotton material, it is better to choose one whose characteristics indicate that it is hydrophobic. This means that during the production process, the insulation was treated with a special compound that prevents moisture absorption.
It is also worth paying attention to the combustibility group. For expanded polystyrene, group G1 is preferred. This will not support combustion away from an open source of flame.
How is a pitched roof insulated?
pitched roofA roof of this type is characterized by a fairly large area, which causes the possibility of large heat loss in the cold season. Especially if the house has an attic floor. Therefore, it is advisable to take care of the thermal insulation device at the stage of building a house. But if this has not been done or the efficiency of thermal insulation is not high enough, the work can be done in a residential building without resorting to large-scale dismantling of roof structures.
To do this, the presence and integrity of the waterproofing layer is checked, which is traditionally placed between the roof and rafters during the construction of the house. In case of its absence, you will have to purchase a special hydro-barrier film that is able to retain water, but at the same time allows steam to pass through. It is also necessary to ensure that the rafters are wrapped with a hydro-barrier film, attaching it with a stapler to the rafters with the correct side. In this case, the top layer will prevent the penetration of moisture, and the bottom layer will not prevent the removal of steam and moisture.
Now you can start laying the insulation. Preference should be given to rolled material and material supplied in the form of plates. Lay it between the rafters, applying a little effort and avoiding the formation of gaps. However, it is imperative that between the insulation and the roofing material there must be a small layer for air circulation - blowing. It is she who will prevent a strong warming up of the attic in the summer. Plates can be fixed using:
- ordinary nylon cord;
- rails stuffed perpendicular to the rafters.
After laying the insulation, you can proceed to the vapor barrier device. To do this, you need to purchase a special vapor barrier film, which will need to be laid on top of the thermal insulation, attaching it to the rafters. As a result, the optimal humidity regime will be provided for the heat insulator, which guarantees its long service life. If necessary, you can perform finishing work if the attic is adapted for living.
How is a flat roof insulated?
Insulation of a flat roof can be performed not only from the inside, but also from the outside. In this case, the latter option, as a rule, is enough to create an optimal microclimate in the house.
The sequence of work in this case is as follows:
- a vapor-tight film is laid;
- insulation is laid or poured;
- it is laid and glued with a resin-based mastic, a roll coating based on synthetic materials or roofing material. This layer allows you to provide protection against moisture penetration;
- bulk material is placed.
Who will do the work?
If there is no desire to perform roof insulation in a wooden house on your own, you can invite a team of experienced builders who have been working in this industry for a long time. They will be able to perform the necessary complex of works in the shortest possible time, ensuring high quality performance.
If the budget is limited, then choosing between buying high-quality modern materials and self-insulating the roof is better to choose the first option. Maybe in this case it will take a little more time, but the materials to be laid will have unique properties that allow them to keep warm in a wooden house for a long time. In addition, the progress of work can be monitored continuously.
When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, observing the technology.
Empirically and by calculations, it has long been established that heat losses occur through each element of the house structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of heat escapes through the attic floor and roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning was wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of the house, you can save all subsequent years on its heating.
It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many homeowners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, the thermal insulation of the roof at different times of the year is capable of performing three functions:
- in winter, it keeps the heat in the house;
- in the summer it does not allow the attic space to heat up, which means that it will be cool in the house;
- in addition, the insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.
Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.
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Types of insulation for roof construction
The choice of insulation must also be made with skill, providing for the technical and operational characteristics of the material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following of them:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Increased moisture resistance.
- Low flammability.
- Ecological cleanliness.
- Material durability.
The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:
- Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
- Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
- Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene).
- Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
- Expanded clay of different fractions (floor insulation).
In addition, natural materials such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves were traditionally used. Some builders still use these heaters today, but they require special treatment, as they are not moisture resistant, which means that putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.
All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, therefore they will slightly weigh down the rafter and overlapping structure.
This table shows the main characteristics of the most popular heaters today:
| Material parameters | materials | Thickness, mm | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | 60 | 80 | 100 | 120 | 150 | 200 | 250 | ||
| Density, kg/m³ | Mineral wool | 100-120 | |||||||
| Styrofoam | 25-35 | ||||||||
| polyurethane foam | 54-55 | ||||||||
| Thermal resistance, (m²°K)/W | Mineral wool | 1.19 | 1.43 | 1.9 | 2.38 | 2.86 | 3.57 | 4.76 | 5.95 |
| Styrofoam | 1.35 | 1.62 | 2.16 | 2.7 | 3.24 | 4.05 | 5.41 | 6.76 | |
| polyurethane foam | 1.85 | 2.22 | 2.96 | 3.7 | 4.44 | 5.56 | 7.41 | 9.26 | |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K) | Mineral wool | 0,038-0,052 | |||||||
| Styrofoam | 0.037 | ||||||||
| polyurethane foam | 0.027 | ||||||||
| Weight 1 m², kg | Mineral wool | 15.2 | 15.8 | 17.6 | 20.9 | 23.2 | 26.7 | 32.4 | 38.2 |
| Styrofoam | 9.8 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12.3 | 13.5 | 14.8 | |
| polyurethane foam | 11.2 | 11.7 | 12.8 | 13.9 | 15 | 16.6 | 19.3 | 22 | |
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is most often used to insulate the roof structure, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in terms of its parameters for thermal insulation of the attic rooms of a wooden house.
One of the most convenient materials is mineral wool.
Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its type:
- Slag wool is made from blast-furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick and 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for attic insulation, so you should not be deceived by its low cost, since insulation will have to be re-insulated in a couple of years.
Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture well and, having been saturated with it, it settles and loses its heat-insulating qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation withstands a temperature of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.
The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you can notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and prickly. Therefore, for residential premises it is best not to use this type of mineral wool.
- Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and cullet. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The chaotic arrangement of the fibers contributes to the airiness and increase the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.
Advanced modern glass wool is designed on the for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.
Glass wool is widely used for insulation of stone buildings, it is also well suited for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated the attic version of the under-roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.
Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and prickly, they easily penetrate the fabric, can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, when starting installation work, you should protect yourself with protective equipment by wearing a thick fabric suit, special goggles, a respirator and gloves.
- Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds. The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W / m × ° K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.
It is much easier to work with stone wool, since its fibers are not so brittle and prickly, their thickness is from 3.5 to 5 microns, and their length is from 3 to 5 mm. They are located randomly and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.
Prices for basalt wool
basalt wool
In addition, basalt insulation is inert to chemical influences and well tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment.
All types of mineral wool for surface insulation are available in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today, in hardware stores, you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, as foil reflects and retains heat indoors.
The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber-binding substance, which is very often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.
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Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for home insulation, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a snug fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other heaters, including sprayed polyurethane foam.
Slabs of conventional Styrofoam - Styrofoam (left), and extruded
Styrofoam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W / (m × ° K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.
moisture absorption conventional foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of the material.
Styrofoam prices
polystyrene foam
The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, while simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.
Therefore, choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and to protect the house as much as possible from possible emergencies. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and proper installation of chimney channels (pipes).
polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and overlapping structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can have a sufficiently large thickness. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulation layer will be completely sealed. Solidifying and expanding, the insulation acquires a high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W / (m × ° K), with moisture absorption not more than 0.2% of the total volume of the material. And this means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.
The sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in fitting the finished coating to the level of the truss system for further finishing or roofing work.
Using this material, you can refuse waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it perfectly copes with the whole complex of problems, without retaining steam and not letting moisture into the room.
Polyurethane foam is sprayed on any surface: horizontal, vertical or sloped, as it has high adhesion with all building materials.
Ecowool
Ecowool is made from small particles of cellulose. Laying of this material can be carried out in a "dry" and "wet" way.
Environmentally friendly material - ecowool
- In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. This method will not work on walls and roof structures.
- For the "wet" method of installation, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives, and then distributed under pressure using a pipe to ceilings and walls.
"Wet" laying of ecowool
- Another option for warming with ecowool is to fill the space between the rafter legs, after fixing finishing material on them, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulating materials, and these include the following:
- This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit any harmful fumes into the environment.
- Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
- If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulation layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
- The installation of insulation is carried out quickly enough.
- Ecowool has a long service life without losing the original thermal insulation qualities.
- Cellulose insulation material is necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore, it has a very low combustibility and a tendency to self-extinguishing. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
- Ecowool, applied to any surface, forms a seamless hermetic coating of the required thickness.
- The insulation is a "breathable" material, so moisture does not linger in it.
- The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.
The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly materials - ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel | Ecowool (cellulose) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m°K) | 0,016-0,018 | 0,038-0,041 |
| Density, kg/m³ | 200-400 | 42-75 |
| Density of contact with the structure | Depending on the faction: | Tight fit, well clogs all the cracks and cracks |
| - 15-20 mm - the presence of voids; | ||
| - 5-10 mm - snug fit. | ||
| Linear shrinkage | missing | |
| Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h | 0.3 | 0.67 |
| Chemical inertness | neutral | |
| combustibility | incombustible | G1-G2 (low combustible material, as it is treated with flame retardants |
| Moisture absorption,% by weight | 10-25 | 14-16 |
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is very often used for warming the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system with expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but filling it between floor beams on pre-prepared surfaces will not be difficult.
This material is made from specially prepared clay, undergoing high-temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is made in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements of 20 ÷ 30 mm in size.
| Fraction, mm | Bulk density, kg/m³ | Total material density, kg/m³ | Compressive strength MPa |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 - 4 | 400 | 800 - 1200 | 2,0 - 3,0 |
| 4 - 10 | 335 - 350 | 550 - 800 | 1,2 - 1,4 |
| 10 - 30 | 200 - 250 | 450 - 650 | 0,9 - 1,1 |
Expanded clay prices
expanded clay
The advantages of this material:
- Ecological purity. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not emit toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
- The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
- For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
- Expanded clay is a non-combustible material, which is a very important quality for a wooden structure. This insulation is used to isolate chimney pipes from wooden floors, filling it into a box built around them.
- Another important advantage of this material is that domestic rodents do not tolerate it. If the house is on a suburban area, then mice can easily settle in it even in the attic, and some heaters create quite suitable conditions for this - but not expanded clay!
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Auxiliary materials
In addition to heat-insulating materials, a waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier film is used in the insulation "pie".
- Waterproofing is necessary in order to protect condensate heater, can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from the air from getting directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.
This membrane must be steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
If the insulation is carried out in an already assembled structure and it is not planned to change the roofing material, under which the waterproofing membrane should be, then sprayed polyurethane foam will have to be used for insulation - it does not require wind protection, and it can be sprayed on on the a reliable basis from boards or directly on a roof covering.
- When insulating the roof slopes, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film from the side of the attic. Vapor barrier is designed to protect the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system from the penetration of moisture from the inside.
As you know, excessive moisture that has fallen on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as an unpleasant odor that will eventually pass into living rooms.
If it is planned to equip a heated room in the attic, then the vapor barrier film must be fixed under the wall decoration.
When insulating the ceiling, the vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, as it should retain heat in the underlying rooms and prevent wet vapor from them from entering the heat-insulating layer.
The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the ceiling, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected inside the attic or towards the living rooms and does not go outside. Between themselves, the canvases are glued with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.
If you want to save money, you can use the old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the gaps between the boards of the attic floor, as well as their joints with the beams, are well smeared with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the floor, but also protect the wood from the appearance of pests, and also allow the insulation layers to “breathe”.
When lime or clay dries well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses have long been insulated with sawdust - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were also used for insulation, which were dried and laid between the floor beams.
This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very laborious and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.
Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.
How to calculate the required thickness of insulation?
It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation, based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. This is also necessary for to create comfortable conditions in the room, in order to avoid overpayment for excess material.
Rasche T t of the required thickness of insulation is determined by special guidelines documents - SNiP 23 — 02-2003" Thermal protection of buildings"and the Code of Rules SP 23 - 101-2004" Design thermal protection of buildings". They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some allowable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:
δut= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2/ λ2 – δ n/ λ n) × λut
We begin to understand the values \u200b\u200bin the formula:
- δut- this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
- R- the required tabular value of thermal resistance (m² × ° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a well-designed heating system, maintaining a comfortable temperature of + 19 ° in the room. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the importance R for walls, ceilings and coverings.
When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coatings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for floors”.
- δ nand λn— the values of the thickness of the material layer and the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.
The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each of the layers, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing "pie" would consist of a solid plywood batten over rafters with a tar paper on top. Below is a layer of insulation to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be hemmed with natural wooden clapboard. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing material.
Important - only those outer layers that fit snugly against each other are considered. For example, flat slate can be taken into account, but wavy - no longer. If the roof structure assumes a ventilated roof, then all layers above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.
Where to get values? Measure the thickness of each of the layers ( δ n) – will not be labor. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not specified in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:
| Estimated thermal performance of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Density of materials in a dry state, kg/m3 | Design coefficients under various operating conditions | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| A | B | A | B | A, B | ||
| λ - coefficient of thermal conductivity (W / (m ° C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa) | ||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Styrofoam | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 28 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 33 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Polyfoam PVC1 and PV1 | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Also | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Also | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| perlitoplastconcrete | 200 | 2 | 3 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.008 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 3 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.008 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foamed synthetic rubber Aeroflex | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Also. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Mineral wool mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats on a synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Also | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and rigid mineral wool slabs on synthetic and bituminous binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Also | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Also | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Also | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Also | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool boards of increased rigidity on an organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool boards on a starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Also | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber slabs with synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Mats and strips of glass fiber stitched | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| URSA Glass Staple Fiber Mats | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Also | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Also | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| URSA Glass Staple Fiber Boards | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Also | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Also | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Also | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Also | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Also | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Also | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Slabs made from natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Wood fiber boards and chipboards | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Also | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Also | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard slabs and wood concrete on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Also | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Also | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Also | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Heat-insulating peat slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Also | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Plaster boards | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Also | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Gypsum sheathing sheets (gypsum board) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Also | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. backfill | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Also | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Also | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Also | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Also | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Also | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Also | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| E. Wood, products from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Facing cardboard | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Multilayer construction cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Also | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Bitumen oil construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Also | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products from expanded perlite on a bituminous binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Also | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
Note that there are two values given for materials λ n– for operating modes A or B . These regimes provide for the peculiarities of the humidity regime - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.
To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone according to the map-scheme - wet, normal or dry.
Then, comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which and choose the value λ n.
| Humidity conditions of the premises | Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zones (according to the map-scheme) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| dry zone | normal zone | wet zone | |
| Dry | A | A | B |
| Normal | A | B | B |
| Wet or wet | B | B | B |
- λut - coefficient of thermal conductivity for the selected type of insulation, according to which the calculation of the thickness is carried out.
Now, having written out the thickness and coefficient of thermal conductivity for each layer, it is possible to calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!
To make it easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed. It provides for the calculation for three layers (not counting the insulation). If the number of layers is less, then just leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters.