Brown dots on houseplants. Diseases of indoor plants: types and treatment of indoor flowers

There are a variety of diseases of indoor flowers, some of them are complex, requiring a special approach in treatment and preventive measures in the future. Rust, a disease of indoor plants, is a rare but dangerous disease that can kill a flower. The name of this flower disease is explained by the appearance of the lesions: red and brown spots appear on the leaves of domestic plants, slightly convex and like fleecy. In fact, it is a fungus. Treatment of home flowers affected by it is long and difficult. It is imperative to reconsider the conditions in which the plant is located and the care scheme.

A ficus completely infected with rust is very difficult to cure.

Rust on plants is not so difficult to recognize, the signs of this disease are specific, they cannot be confused or missed.

1. Initially, rust appears on the leaves and stems of house flowers. It looks like yellow-brown or red-brown raised spots of various sizes and shapes.
2. The spots increase in size, swell and form pustules. The leaves of diseased plants intensively evaporate moisture, the pustules dry out quickly, crack and burst. A "rusty" powder is poured out of them, which poses a serious threat to neighboring healthy plants. These are fungal spores that quickly spread through the air throughout the flower garden.
3. Then the spores completely cover the entire surface of the leaf and stems, appear on the flowers. Plants change color, turn brown or brown.
4. Then indoor flowers begin to dry and lose leaves, if you do not start treatment, the plants will die.

However, even if you start taking action, it is not always possible to save indoor plants from disease. Therefore, it is better not to allow its appearance and development.

It is important to know: at a temperature not exceeding 10 degrees above zero, the incubation period of the disease lasts up to 20 days. If the temperature is above 18 degrees, then the incubation period is reduced to 7-14 days.

Reasons for the appearance

Rust - fungal disease, and the fungus, as you know, likes to settle there, de humid, warm and dark. From this we can conclude that rust appears on plants if they are watered too often and abundantly, they are not ventilated and kept in the shade, away from direct sunlight or phytolamps.

It is especially dangerous to flood indoor plants with water in winter. In the cold season, many flowers fall into a dormant state until spring, they do not need frequent watering, as well as mineral fertilizing. If, in addition to this, the pot is near the battery, you should not be surprised at the appearance of such a plant disease.

Over-watering indoor flowers can lead to rust infestation.

Also, the development of the fungus can provoke the abuse of mineral fertilizers rich in nitrogen. In winter they are not needed at all. And during the growing season and flowering of plants, you should strictly follow the instructions and not make too high a concentration of fertilizer.

If the plant pots are on outdoor terrace, the veranda or on the balcony, the spores of the fungus can be carried in by the wind or insects. Sometimes you come across seeds already infected with rust. It is difficult to recognize this, often even impossible. This is one of the reasons why the seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate before sowing. As well as containers with soil in which they will be planted.

What houseplants are affected more often than others?

In principle, rust can appear on all types of indoor plants. But the fungus loves certain varieties more than others. In addition, there are house flowers that are more susceptible to fungal spores and cannot fight it. Such decorative crops should be protected from moisture and overheating with special care:

• camellia;
• fuchsia;
• Carnation;
• cyclamen;
• pelargonium;
• the Rose;
• geranium;
• chrysanthemum.

A cameo leaf damaged by rust is no longer subject to treatment.

This fungus loves to settle on horticultural crops such as asparagus and citrus bushes, and often affects different types of palm trees.

We treat and prevent the disease

In most cases, the flower garden suffers from rust due to the fault of the owners themselves - this means that they do not properly care for their plants. In order to prevent the formation and spread of the fungus in the spring, all flowers should be treated with a 1% solution of the Bordeaux mixture.

What if a fungus still settled on the plant and its leaves began to rust? First of all, it is important to prevent contamination of neighboring plants, even if the diseased flower can no longer be saved. Therefore, the sick flower must be immediately taken to the hotel room. The affected leaves are all broken off, even if there are only a few small specks of rust on them. Then they need to be burned away from the flower garden.

Bordeaux mixture is used to fight rust on indoor and garden plants.

The flower itself can be processed with the same Bordeaux mixture. Or use sulfur dust. You can also prepare the following disinfectant mixture yourself:

• heat up 5 liters of purified water;
• dissolve 200 g of green soap in water;
• add 15 g of copper sulfate.

The room in which the potted plant is located must be well ventilated several times a day, and it is better to keep the window open at all times. Neither air dryness nor high humidity should be allowed.

It is important to water the plant properly. The liquid should be added to the pan or into the soil, but so that the water gets under the root, and not on the leaves and flowers of the plant. If dressings are used, then preference should be given to preparations containing potassium and phosphorus.

Copper sulfate is a component of a spray preparation that you can prepare yourself.

Novice growers often confuse rust with any red spots on the leaves of plants and begin to spray the flower garden with various fungicides. As a result, many plants die from an improperly applied product. Therefore, if there is a suspicion of a plant infection with a fungus, you should either read high-quality photos symptoms and manifestations of the disease, or invite a knowledgeable person to inspect plants and diagnose.

Rust can also appear differently for different flowers and crops. On some flowers, it develops faster, on others it grows very slowly, over weeks and months. In any case, the plant needs to be treated, the most important points in this process - providing a constant flow of fresh air and removing the affected parts of the flower. Treatment with a disinfectant solution is recommended to be repeated 10-12 days after the first spraying.

From the reasons associated with the oppression of the plant, there is a lack or oversaturation of the green pet with moisture, light, heat, nutrients, and acidity of the substrate. There are a number of other causes of diseases of indoor flowers. Check out the main causes and subsequent diseases of indoor plants.

Top dressing

Air humidity

Due to the unfavorable microclimate, there is a deterioration in the condition and some diseases of indoor plants. So, for most representatives of home flora with low air humidity:

• leaves dry up and fall;
• the tips and edges of leaves, buds and flowers darken and dry;
• corking of stems and leaf plates occurs.

Watering

Improper watering can also trigger a number of diseases. Excess moisture leads to acidification of the substrate, as a result of which the normal vital activity of the plant is disrupted. As a result, breathing difficulties in the root system, leading to decay and poor absorption of substances. In this case, a healthy plant acquires an unusual color, the leaves become stained, and the stems at the base begin to rot. Look at the photo of the houseplant disease. How to deal with such a problem? Monitor the watering system of the flowers.

Lighting system

Improper lighting often contributes to painful manifestations in indoor plants. So, a lack of light can contribute to the formation of an irregular crown. If the leaves begin to brighten and fall off as a result, then the flower is not receiving enough light. If it turned out to be impossible in principle to organize light of natural origin in the norm, fill up the plant's need in the form of an artificial source.

Remember that too much sun exposure is just as dangerous as too little. Burns may appear on the leaves, the leaf plates become covered with dry spots, the tips dry out. The correct lighting system is one of the tips on how to deal with indoor plant disease.

Temperature regime

Temperature for each representative of the flora is an important factor, especially for those plants that are grown by flower growers on the windowsill.

At low temperatures, leaves fall and die off, sometimes the flower dies completely. Those plants that suffer from high temperatures begin to wilt and also shed their leaves.

Painful manifestations in plants and the causes of their occurrence

Causes of plant diseases and their external manifestations

Painful manifestation	The reason the plant has weakened
Old leaves turn yellow	Macronutrients and nitrogen are inadequate. Lack of light in the spring and winter. Excessively high temperature, especially at night.
The tips of the leaves turn yellow	Excess calcium in the substrate. Dryness of the soil.
Leaves turn yellow-brown	Irrigation water contains excessive amounts of calcium and chlorine.
The plant turned yellow completely	Waterlogging of the soil. Chronic lack of moisture. Heavy substrate. Dense earthen lump. Decreased air humidity.
Sagging leaves, loss of turgor, shedding healthy foliage	Watering cold water. Violation of the temperature regime of the plant. Lack of copper.
Foliage curls, wrinkles, interveinal chlorosis is observed	Hypothermia.
Premature aging of leaves	Lack of potassium, magnesium, zinc.
Deformation of leaf plates, twisting along the veins	Infestation by thrips, aphids, thrips.
Light spots on the leaves	Sunburn. Traces of water droplets. Reaction to cold environments.
The formation of brown, oily, gray-white spots on foliage	Leaf nematodes. Fungal or bacterial diseases.
Dark green leaf spot	Nitrogen oversaturation. Lack of lighting.
Line mosaic or mottling	Defeat by viruses.
Whitish, pale green, yellow foliage with green veins	Lack of Cu, Fe, S.
Partially dry brown spots and vitreous discharge on leaves	Elevated level humidity. The problem is in a waterlogged substrate. Stagnant air. Low room temperature.
Small bumps or specks on the leaves	Damage by pests: ticks, thrips, aphids.
Edges and holes in leaves	Defeat by beetles, slugs, caterpillars. Development of fungal diseases.
Lack of bud formation or low budding	Inappropriate conditions for keeping the plant during the dormant period. Unfavorable ratio of light to temperature. Nitrogen oversaturation. Insufficient humidity in the room.
Sudden fall of foliage	A sharp jump in temperatures. Drying out of the earthen coma. Fungal diseases. Bacterial wilting.
Sprinkling buds	It can be triggered by sudden temperature fluctuations, for example, when airing. Decreased air humidity. Drying out of the soil in the pot. Not enough light. Unbalanced feeding. Nitrogen oversaturation.
Yellowing and falling leaves	Irregular and not systematic watering. Drafts. Excessively high temperature in low light conditions.
Withering flowers	Overdrying the substrate. General starvation of the plant. Nitrogen oversaturation.
The formation of short peduncles	Wrong mode plant feeding. Unsuitable substrate. General starvation of the flower. Irregular watering. Fluctuations in temperature. Violation of the norms of maintenance during the rest period. Excess heat during bud formation and growth.
Leaves are covered with a mealy white bloom	Powdery mildew. Peronosporosis.

Bacteriosis in plants

Bacteriosis is a disease of indoor plants caused by bacterial forms. Today, it is rare in indoor plants, but it is better to know in advance about the symptoms of the manifestation of the invasion and methods of eliminating the disease.

Remember that not only garden and garden crops but also floral houseplants. Onions most often suffer from this disease and, if they get sick, they take enormous damage from the infection. It is interesting that when this disease is affected in cultures of different species, the symptoms manifest themselves in the same way, and the disease itself proceeds with the wilting of the plant or the appearance of spots and rot on the leaves. Sometimes there is a blackening of the veins of the leaves. This is how the leaf disease of a houseplant manifests itself.

A typical sign of the disease is the wilting of the plant and the appearance of rot and spotting on the leaves, blackening of the veins of the leaves.

Plants that are kept in humid warm rooms most often suffer from bacterial spotting.

Gommoz

Citrus fruits often get sick. The bark of the trunks is covered with brown-red spots of a longitudinal shape. With the development of the disease at the sites of damage, the bark dies off, and from under the cracks a sticky yellowish liquid begins to ooze - gum, which dries in air.

Sometimes the course of the disease occurs without fluid leakage. So, in places of damage, the bark becomes dry, but it does not flake off. As a result, deep cracks with this disease of indoor plants. The photo illustrates what the disease looks like.

Under the influence of gommosis, the plant begins to change the color of the leaves of the foam from greenish to yellowish, and then lose them. Fruit formation is observed, but they are very small.

Chlorosis in indoor indoor plants

With a lack of such elements as zinc, manganese, iron in the substrate, plants begin to suffer from chlorosis of the leaves. Sometimes a violation of the absorption of these elements, in most of the soils with excessive liming, can cause the development of the disease. In the photo, a disease of the leaves of indoor plants, caused by a lack of minerals.

As a result of the disease, the undersides of the leaf plates acquire a yellow color and as a result die off. With chlorosis, there is a slow development of such plant organs as buds, leaves, stems, root system.

Root rot

Root rot is a common plant disease. The main difference between root rot and other diseases is the property of destruction of tissue cells, which inevitably leads to decay of the root system. See how this houseplant disease occurs in the photo below.

The roots usually turn brown, and after a while they completely die off. After the root system has died, the disease spreads rapidly, actively killing the cells of the leaves and flowers of plants. So, root rot is a disease that causes the complete death of a flower.

Diseases and pests prevention methods and methods of protection

Whatever care you provide for your plant, efforts and efforts may be in vain if indoor flower infect pests, provoking disease.

The green plant suffers for many reasons, and not all of them lend themselves to explanation. The most common cause of infection is the transfer of diseases and harmful insects from one fauna to another, for example, when buying a plant.

Another reason is the latent state of infection inside its carrier.

In favorable conditions for pests (with a warm microclimate in your room or improper care), diseases and pests develop and appear. The first reason plants suffer is more common.

So how do you treat houseplant diseases and promote the conservation of any green pets? One of the most popular among florists and effective methods- preventive disinfection of flowers. As many gardeners and gardeners say - prevention is much more useful and better than treatment. After all, it is better to prevent the problem in advance than to deal with the problems later.

Prevention methods consist in spraying plants and flowers with a weak solution of a fungicide or insecticide according to the scheme - once every 20 days in the warm season.

Out of the number of plant treatment products, 90% are chemicals that can be dangerous to the plant and the living organisms surrounding it if the product is used incorrectly. Therefore, when planning to carry out prevention for green friends, choose one of the safest options.

It is not for nothing that the proverb sounds so loud: "Forewarned - armed!" Prevention is the best protection of indoor plants from disease.

Carefully examining home plants at least once a week, taking preventive measures, seriously treating diseased representatives, be sure that guaranteed protection is provided to your favorite indoor plants.

It is very unpleasant when your favorite indoor flower starts to hurt. Consider the probable causes of what is happening, identify the pathogens and learn how to deal with them. So, what diseases of indoor plants exist, what drugs are there for their elimination, and can flowers fully recover after treatment?

The main factors in the development of diseases

1. Monitor the acidity of the soil and the presence nutrients... An insufficient number of them leads to slow growth, the leaves fall off, the flowers become defective.
2. Low or high temperature in the room will cause the leaves to curl.
3. Improper lighting. The stems become thin, the leaves dry out, the flowers do not develop.
4. Water the flowerpot correctly. Excess moisture contributes to the development of rot on the roots, and a lack of moisture contributes to the yellowing of the leaves.

Please note that some pest control substances are dangerous not only for humans, but also for pets. Consider this and carry out treatment measures in the fresh air and store toxic substances away from children and animals.

Let us consider in more detail the types of diseases and measures to combat it.

Viral diseases

The main feature of this type of indoor plant disease is slowdown in growth, however, it should be noted that the plant rarely dies. This fact does not allow identifying viruses at the onset of the disease and starting the fight against the pest in time.

The most common viruses are aphids and thrips. The treatment of indoor plants is cardinal - complete destruction, because there are no drugs for their treatment. External signs of the disease are the appearance of mosaic spots on flowers and some leaves.

Bacterial diseases

Chemicals are not effective against bacterial infections. The main thing - take preventive measures, monitor soil moisture. When root decay appears, it is necessary to reduce the abundance of watering, and if the entire houseplant is damaged, it must be completely destroyed along with the earth and the pot.

Houseplants susceptible to attack by many pests, such as:

Diseases caused by fungi

Prophylaxis

In order not to waste time and money on the treatment of indoor plants, take preventive measures:

It is worth noting that it is better and easier to prevent the spread of pests than to treat indoor plants.

Diseases and pests of indoor flowers on video.

Of course, indoor plants are less likely to suffer from diseases and pests than their garden relatives, as they are usually under closer scrutiny. But if home flowers are nevertheless damaged by insects or infected, it is much more difficult to treat them, because "green pets" are more pampered and capricious, react worse to outside interference and, especially, to the use of chemicals.

The wrong location (very dark, too sunny, too cold, very warm, with low air humidity) as well as improper care (too much water, lack of moisture, wrong fertilizer, wrong substrate) can cause poor plant health. Unskilled care also contributes to the defeat of indoor flowers by pests and diseases, the plants refuse to bloom, wither, and, in the end, die.

Enemies, as they say, need to be known by sight. Therefore, check out the photos and names of diseases and pests of indoor plants, find out about the causes of damage and how to get rid of these insects and infections.

Diseases of indoor flowers: photos, causes and methods of struggle

In this section of the article, you will learn how to deal with some diseases of indoor plants and can see what the symptoms of the lesion look like.

Brown leaf edges

Causes: excess or lack of water, excess fertilizer, soil that has lost its suitability, dry air.

Control measures: optimize care, increase air humidity.

Twisted leaves

Causes: low air humidity, dry land. Damage to the roots can also cause this plant disease.

Control measures: optimize care, transplant if necessary.

Pale leaves (chlorosis)

Plants that prefer acidic soil such as azalea and euphorbia. The veins of the leaves are still green.

Causes: hard water, iron deficiency.

Control measures: soften the water, add the iron preparation to the water.

Light spots on the leaves

Causes: temperature changes, too cold or too warm water. Moisturizing in the sun (for example, in the uzambara violet).

Control measures: change location, optimize care, water from below.

Powdery mildew

Symptoms: powder-like bloom from white to dirty brown on both sides of the leaves.

Causes: fungus spores.

As you can see in the photo, you can fight this disease of indoor plants with the help of fungicides:

Control measures: for prevention, spray with horsetail infusion. Remove diseased leaves.

Gray mold

Symptoms: gray-brown bloom on leaves, petioles or flowers.

Causes: not suitable for spraying or cold water, too high humidity.

Control measures: remove diseased parts of the plant, reduce air humidity, put in a brighter place.

Bacteria and viruses

Bacterial wet rot is found in alpine violets and house calla lilies.

Symptoms: rot at the base of the stem.

As shown in the photo, with this disease of indoor flowers, if the correct treatment is not available, rot spreads throughout the plant:

Control measures: No.

Mosaic virus

Affects primarily anthurium, orchids, hydrangeas, gloxinia, hippeastrum.

Symptoms: light green and dark green spots.

Control measures: No.

A kidney flush is most often caused by an imbalance in water balance. Either the plant lacked moisture, or as a result of over-watering, the roots were damaged so much that they could not absorb and transport a sufficient amount of moisture. Some plants, such as gardenia, stephanotis or camellia, shed their buds even when the location changes abruptly. Premature discarding of flowers is also a consequence of a change in the place of growth and is especially manifested when the plant is not sufficiently hardened. Inactive flowering can be caused by genetic factors (some varieties bloom less than others) or a lack of phosphorus, a violation of the dormant period, or improper wintering. Cracked pedicels are considered the result of irregular watering. This can lead to tension in the tissues and rupture of the shoots. Rotting flowers or buds indicate a gray mold infestation.

These photos show the symptoms of some diseases of indoor plants:

Houseplant pests: photos, causes and control measures

The most favorable time for pests of indoor flowers is the end of the heating period. Lack of light and dry air in the heated room expose plants to the danger of pests. During this period, spider mites and aphids especially often appear on plants. Summer and autumn are whitefly season. The best prevention is a care that suits the needs of the plants. Choose the most suitable places location. In addition, more time should be devoted to observing the plants.

First of all, pay attention to the underside of the leaves. In this case, it is often possible to detect a disease or pests in the initial stage of damage. Diseased plants should be isolated to avoid spreading the infection to other plants.

Spider mites

Symptoms: cobwebs under and between leaves.

Causes: too dry air.

Control measures: increase air humidity, use a warm shower, add predatory mites. Also, special preparations are used to combat these pests of indoor flowers.

Soft-bodied mites

Symptoms: curled leaves, cessation of growth.

Causes: contamination promoted by warmth and high humidity air.

Control measures: reduce temperature and humidity. Parts of indoor plants affected by this pest must be removed and destroyed.

Thrips

Symptoms: silvery strokes on the leaves.

Look at the photo - when indoor flowers are affected by this pest, brownish traces of the introduction of sucking insects appear on the underside of the leaves:

Causes: dry air.

Control measures: warm shower. Insect traps, predatory mites, insecticides.

Whiteflies

Symptoms: small white flies on the underside of the leaves.

Causes: infection from other plants.

Control measures: lower the temperature, since the tropical insect does not tolerate coolness. Traps, riders and insecticides are also used to combat this pest of indoor plants.

Symptoms: sticky leaves, leaf deformation.

Causes: draft, open windows in spring, the air is too dry.

Control measures: warm shower, golden eyes, predatory gall midges, riders, insecticides.

Shields

Symptoms: brown shields under which insects sit.

Pay attention to the photo - indoor plants affected by these pests shed their leaves:

Causes: too dry and warm air.

Pest control measures: place indoor plants in a cooler and brighter place. Remove shields. To get rid of these pests of indoor plants as quickly as possible, you need to use insecticides. For hard-leaved domestic crops, white is used mineral oil or spray for leaf shine.

Felts and mealybugs

Symptoms: cotton-like formations, primarily in the axils and on the underside of the leaves. Poor growth.

Causes: too dry air.

Control measures with these insect pests of indoor plants are the same as in the fight against scale insects.

Nematodes

Symptoms: glassy or brown spots, limited by leaf veins. Leaf shedding.

Causes: contamination promoted by moisture on the leaves.

Control measures: remove and destroy diseased leaves. Keep the leaves dry.

Here you can see photos of the main diseases and pests of indoor plants:

Changes in plant leaves indicate the presence of pests, diseases, or care errors. A healthy leaf is strong with a flawless edge and tip. Pay attention to the metamorphosis and take action. Leaves are the vital nerve of the plant and, along with this, the best indicator of the presence of pests and diseases.

Sometimes buds and flowers are also damaged. The main causes of such damage should be known. Pale colors of flowers indicate excess sunlight. Deformed or broken flowers signal the presence of pests such as aphids.

How to get rid of pests of indoor plants: methods of protecting flowers

There are several ways how to deal with pests of indoor plants. Some of the most effective are mechanical protection, biotechnical methods and use chemicals.

How to get rid of pests on indoor plants using mechanical protection:

• Remove the affected parts of the plant.
• Carry out the removal of pests, including rinsing them under the shower.
• Submerge the aerial parts of the affected plant in warm water with a little detergent. The pot must first be placed in a plastic bag and tied on top.

Biological control methods are to use beneficial insects, For example:

• Riders against whiteflies
• Predatory mites against spider mites and fringed winged mites,
• Carnivorous gall midges, gold-eyed or wasters against aphids.

Beneficial insects are the most effective remedy when a large number of plants are affected and the air is not too warm and dry. The ideal temperature is considered to be about 20 ° С, and at 27 ° С and higher, success is in question.

Biotechnical control methods use the natural reactions of pests to physical or chemical irritations:

• The yellow plates are glue-coated insect traps that attract bright color mining flies, whiteflies, sciarids and other flying pests.
• In the "bath for plants", due to the very high humidity of the air, spider mites are destroyed. To do this, you need to water the plant well and place it in a transparent plastic bag. Caution rot! Plants with soft leaves such processing is not tolerated.
• Oily agents such as white oil clog the airways of insects. Leaf shine sprays work in a similar way.

Do not take pesticides right away. In many cases, the same effect can be obtained using completely harmless means.

Chemicals should only be used as a last resort. If you have to use chemicals, then the following rules must be observed:

• Follow the directions for use and dosage on the package.
• Follow the recommended treatment intervals to eliminate new generations of pests.
• Do not use sprays that are harmful to the environment.
• Only process plants outdoors.
• Wear gloves and do not breathe spray.
• Store plant protection products in the sealed original packaging, out of the reach of children and pets.
• Do not store leftover chemicals, their effectiveness will quickly deteriorate. Do not dispose of chemicals with your normal household waste, but send them to special waste collection points.

These photos show how to deal with pests of indoor plants using various methods:

Prevention to protect indoor plants from diseases and pests

Improper maintenance and placement errors can severely weaken plants. In such cases, flowers easily become victims of diseases and pests. So better protection indoor plants from pests and diseases is prevention and the correct choice of location.

If it was not possible to avoid disease or pests, then quick diagnosis and targeted treatment will help.

Proper care is considered guaranteed protection from diseases and pests.

How to carry out prophylaxis to protect indoor plants from diseases and pests:

• It is especially important to increase the air humidity during the heating season. Dry air is the main cause of pests.
• Avoid planting too densely.
• Prune dried leaves and flowers regularly and keep pots and soil clean.
• Plant tissues can be strengthened by correct dosage fertilizers and using special means such as silicic acid-containing horsetail mixtures or aromatic sprays.

Plants are living things, they are also susceptible to disease. If your pets wither, despite stable care, the disease is likely to blame. Diseases of indoor plants - online diagnostics with detailed photos. Symptoms, types of diseases and methods of their treatment - in this material.

1. Mosaic disease 2. Curly leaves 3. Jaundice ✿ Fungal:

1. Powdery mildew (including false) 2. Gray rot 3. Sooty fungus (rabble) 4. Red burn 5. Anthracnose (scab) 6. Rust 7. Root rot (black leg) 8. Wilt, verticillary wilting 9. Late blight ✿ Bacterial:

1. Bacterial wet rot 2. Bacterial spot, fire blight ✿ Physiological:

1. Dropsy 2. Chlorosis

Viral

The most severe diseases in terms of form and diagnosis! Primary signs are often confused with care errors. The plant may lag behind in growth, lose its decorative effect, the leaves are deformed and disappear. Usually viral infections do not lead to the death of a flower: it can fight the disease for a long time and stubbornly. Frequent carriers of viruses are all the same pests, especially aphids, whiteflies and thrips!

1. Mosaic disease

White, light green, or light yellow spots appear along the veins different shapes caused by the breakdown of chloroplast in leaf cells. Over time, the number of spots increases, as a result, the entire surface of the leaf plate is covered with small mosaic-like spots of various sizes and shapes.

2. Curly leaves

The result of this virus is leaf deformation. First, convex and wrinkled areas appear, similar to bulges, then the sheet loses its shape, as if twisting. Gardeners often face a similar problem! So, currant leaves are highly susceptible to curl, which are carried by insect pests.

3. Jaundice

This dangerous disease affects the crown and affects the general condition of the flower! The first symptoms are similar to chlorosis: the leaves lose their natural greenery, gradually turn yellow, become lethargic and lifeless. Jaundice causes necrosis - tissue death in the form of progressive brown spots. In addition, the stems become fragile due to an overabundance of starch in them! The process becomes massive and affects young shoots and buds, and also affects flowering, discoloring the petals.

Risk group for all viruses: exotic flowering crops, calla lilies, orchids, pelargoniums, primroses, bougainvillea, poinsettia, begonias.

Treatment

Not a single drug will give a 100% guarantee of recovery! At the initial stage of a viral infection, you can try to save the plant. First, quarantine the flower, isolating it from others! Disinfect the equipment, because the virus can enter the soil with soil particles. Remove all affected parts - leaves, shoots, make rejuvenating pruning, covering the cuts with activated charcoal.

Disinfect the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate in a proportion of 3 grams of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water. Observe the patient's condition! If the disease persists, you will have to part with the flower in order to avoid contamination of the rest of the members of the home collection.

Prophylaxis

In the case of viral diseases, it is actually easier to prevent than to cure! It is enough to follow the general rules of care (you can read about important rules here): temperature regime, the watering regime, to prevent waterlogging and, of course, to protect the plant from pests, at the first signs of which they should be treated with fungicides. Only use cuttings from healthy plants! Feed your pets with organics and minerals, observing the dosage, take them out into the fresh air in summer, and increase their immunity. After all, no virus is terrible for a healthy flower!

Important!

• Diseases of garden flowers: we continue the list.
• Folk recipes for the treatment of plants.
• How to get rid of pests - signs and methods of control.

Fungal

This type of disease is the most common! Fungi are lower creatures that feed on plant sap, getting inside through mechanical damage to the aerial part, or through the root system, along with water or dust. Most often, fungi appear in places where sucking insects accumulate - aphids, whiteflies, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs! Fungi multiply rapidly and occupy the surface of leaves and stems. Usually this group of diseases manifests itself in the form of spots, or plaque. What fungal diseases are indoor flowers susceptible to?

1. Powdery mildew (including false)

Familiar to many lovers of violets and cyclamens, which are a favorite delicacy of the fungus. Besides them, he also favors petunias! The name of the disease reflects well the external signs, because the plaque just resembles flour. It appears first on the outer, then on the inner surface of the leaves, gradually acquiring a brown color. At first, the mealy plaque is easily erased with a finger, but it reappears and causes a growth arrest and foliage death.

Risk group: violet, henoplia, geranium, cyclamen, almost all garden flowers are also affected by it.

2. Gray rot

This fungus begins its meal not from the leaves, but from the stems! First, there are brown damp spots with a mossy bloom. Growing into concentric circles, they entangle the trunk of the plant, blocking the access of water to the leaves, they darken and die off. The fungus grows rapidly, affecting all parts of the plant.

Risk group: same as above.

3. Sooty fungus (mobile)

External signs correspond to the name of the disease - a black bloom appears on the leaves, similar to soot. At the same time, the lesions increase, the plaque clogs the pores of the leaf, prevents it from breathing and absorbing sunlight. As a result, he dies off.

Risk group: gardenia, citrus, coffee tree, azalea, camellia palms.

4. Red burn

As a result of the activity of this fungus, red spots appear on the leaves, similar to burns, which are subsequently covered with a black crust. The spots progress rapidly, leading to deformation of leaves and shoots, especially young ones, and curvature of the peduncles. The fungus usually lives in the bulb.

Risk group: bulbous plants, hippeastrum, clivia, amaralis, eucharis.

5. Anthracnose (scab)

The fungus manifests itself in the form of spots different colors and forms! They usually appear in the center of the leaf, less often at the tips, gradually turning from small to large. In this case, the surface of the leaf at the site of the lesion turns from smooth to fleecy, a gray or yellow border can be seen around the spot. As a result, the leaf dies off.

Risk group: most often - ficuses and palms.

6. Rust

This disease in indoor conditions rare, but becomes a real problem for gardeners. On the surface of the leaf, red, brown, or orange spots similar to rust are clearly visible, and on inside- tubercles, fungal spores. Quite quickly, the spots turn into stripes, causing tissue death.

Risk group: asparagus, pelargonium, camellia, citrus fruits and chrysanthemums, from garden ones these are stock-rose, bell, carnations, peonies, snapdragons.

7. Root rot (black leg)

The disease affects primarily the roots, provoking their decay. Fungal spores colonize the root collar; over time, the roots stop consuming water and nutrients, and eventually die off. Usually gardeners face this problem during the period of growing seedlings! A diseased plant is easily pulled out of the ground.

Risk group: especially susceptible stem cuttings, young immature plants, more often than others - pelargonium.

8. Wilt, verticillary wilting

Leaves affected by the fungus change color - they become brown-green, darken; tissue segments between veins can dry out, turgor decreases, necrosis (tissue death) appears. The sections show that the vessels are brown! If conditions favor it (high temperature and humidity), the fungus spreads, causing death separate parts plants starting from the bottom.

Risk group: often affects decorative deciduous species.

9. Late blight

This is a very dangerous fungal disease, which in most cases leads to the death of the plant! First, spots appear on the leaves - necrosis, purple or brown, then rotting of the base of the stem, root collar begins, the branches soften and sag lifelessly. Among the probable reasons for the appearance of the fungus is excessive watering along with a dense, "clogged" substrate.

Risk group: most commonly succulents and cacti, as well as orchids and azaleas.

Treatment

Before starting treatment, the site flowery-blog.ru advises to exterminate insect pests, if any! At the first sign, the plant must be isolated, because fungi have the ability to spread! Treatment depends on the severity of the infection: if the fungal spores have not spread much, they must be removed with a soft sponge. To do this, you can use a soda solution (1 teaspoon of baking soda in half a liter of water), vinegar solution (1 teaspoon of vinegar per liter of water), or beer slightly diluted with water. Severely affected areas should be cut off and discarded!

Transplant the plant into a new soil, rinsing the roots with running water, the old substrate must be disposed of! In the initial stages of ailments (except for the black leg), only the top layer of the soil can be replaced. Reduce watering and spraying, do not create a favorable environment for fungi. If possible, quarantine the plant in a cool place.

Fungicides will help to eradicate the fungus: "Vectra", "Topaz", "Strobi", "Cuproxat", "Colloidal sulfur", "Bordeaux liquid", "Copper sulfate". They are also used in horticultural floriculture. Strictly follow the instructions! Good results are obtained by using "Green Soap", it is harmless, has a vegetable nature and helps to cope with rust, late blight, scab, powdery mildew. It is also used as a prophylaxis during the period of plant recovery!

Prophylaxis

Even in winter, do not place flowers too close to each other to allow air circulation. Do not overdo it with spraying, in the desire to add moisture to the air, you can do harm. Spray flowers no more than once a day, doing this with the help of a puller, it does not leave a drop of water on the leaves! Spraying rules for plants.

Ventilate the room more often even in winter, flowers need access to fresh air, and in summer, move them to the balcony or garden (excluding those that do not like temperature changes). For prophylaxis, periodically (once every 1-2 months) water all flowers with Fitosporin-M solution. This herbal preparation prevents fungal diseases!

Bacterial

By symptomatology bacterial diseases are similar to fungal, which makes diagnosis difficult. However, the spots in this case have vague outlines, similar to oily, glassy. Infection can occur through mechanical damage, through tubers, or seeds. Pets and ourselves can become bacteria carriers! Bacteria are invisible to the eye, they enter the soil, and from it into the vascular system of the flower.

1. Bacterial wet rot

Bacteria cause tissue decay - softening and rotting! The traces of their activity look like a damp, shapeless spot. Spots can appear on trunks, roots, tubers, bulbs, but more often on leaves. To the touch in places of damage, parts of the plant become soft, gradually turning into a soggy, bad-smelling mass.

Risk group: bulbous and tuberous plants.

2. Bacterial spot, fire blight

In this case, small watery spots appear along the veins of the leaf, gradually acquiring black color, they can be surrounded by a yellow or brown border. Small or large, they look like a burn - as if the leaf in this place was charred! Spotting affects the upper young parts of the plant.

Risk group: Dangerous for all plants, but most of all for bulbous and tuberous.

Treatment

If only some parts of the plant have been exposed to bacteria, remove them completely by covering the sections with crushed charcoal and disinfecting the tools. In this case, it is important to quarantine the plant in a bright, dry, cool room, reduce watering and do not spray with water. But spraying with fungicides should be used, copper-containing preparations are suitable for these purposes: "Copper sulfate", "Bordeaux mixture". Also, some flower growers use the drug Trichopolum, which is familiar to many, for watering and spraying, at the rate of 1 tablet per 2 liters of water.

If the rot has affected the root system of the flower, you will have to resort to surgical intervention! Remove it, rinse the roots under running water, remove all affected areas, sprinkle the slices with crushed charcoal and place in new dry soil. Trim the aerial part to make it easier for the roots! Do not water the plant for a while, observe its condition.

Prophylaxis

Soil, which does not have time to dry out, becomes a favorable environment for the development of bacteria. Waterlogging is generally harmful to tuberous and bulbous crops, it reduces their immunity and provokes the development of diseases of a different nature. Therefore, observe the watering regime!

Bacteria have two routes - through the soil, or through damaged parts of the plant. In this regard, be sure to disinfect the soil before planting, and also cover the cuts of plants with crushed coal after pruning.

Physiological

Sometimes the cause of indoor flower disease is not fungi or viruses at all, but simply improper care! Some plants react vividly to errors in care, others forgive minor oversights, but almost all flowers, with a systematic violation of the conditions of detention, begin to hurt. Unlike the previous ones, this group of diseases is not contagious!

1. Dropsy

Outwardly, the signs of the disease are similar to watery pimples. The formations are usually located on the inside of the leaves, so they are not always noticeable. The reason for this is excessive watering in low light conditions.

Risk group: hibiscus, ficus, pelargonium, pereromnia, Kalanchoe, citrus.

Treatment. Unfortunately, the affected leaves cannot be restored, so they will have to be removed in the future. First of all, reduce watering, provide the plant with more ambient light, or compensate for its lack artificial lighting... The pot must have holes and a tray so that excess moisture does not trap! Also, don't forget to put a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot.

2. Chlorosis

The ailment familiar to many flower growers arises from a lack of nutrients, namely magnesium and nitrogen, but mainly iron (iron deficiency chlorosis is most often observed). Chlorosis usually occurs during the growing season, when the plant does not have enough resources to grow new foliage! In this case, the veins of the leaf remain green, while the space between them turns yellow. Sometimes the leaves can be deformed at the ends and become smaller. The disease affects old and young areas.

Risk group: ficus Benjamin, hibiscus, lemon, gardenia, azalea, hydrangea.

Treatment. To replenish iron deficiency, you can use micronutrient fertilizers containing iron in a chelated form. Such preparations can be applied by spraying and under the root! These include: "Iron Chelate", "Antichlorosis", "Micro-Fe", "Ferrylene".

Choose light, breathable, slightly acidic substrates, alkaline soils exacerbate the problem. You can correct the situation by sprinkling with water acidified with lemon juice, or citric acid(it neutralizes the alkali). Water for irrigation must be defended, because in hard water there is an excess of calcium salts, and they provoke chlorosis.

Now you know almost all diseases of indoor plants and can diagnose them at the first sign.

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

The most common plant diseases that occur on indoor flowers are described here. Attention: on any plants in violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planting in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, there are not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long filaments of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not oppressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often several diseases appear in plants at the same time, for example, in orchids, tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternaria. The good news is that the fungicides that are offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for home) drugs of 3 and 4 hazard classes are allowed.

Alternaria and dry spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus mainly infects leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: Dry brown spots appear first, primarily on the lower leaves and then on the upper leaves. Concentric circles are usually visible on the spots. With an increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternation of dry and wet periods. But optimal conditions for the development of the fungus at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prophylaxis

Avoid thickening of the plants, while cutting out excess branches and leaves. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate violations.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat Alternaria:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 l of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palms, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, they look different.

• Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small rounded or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. Looks like yellow spot, with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim forms, and a grayish ring inside it.
• Colletotrichum orbiculare - usually reddish-brown, often with a light yellow border, spots, 2 to 12 mm thick. On some plants, the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, and holes form.
• Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are noticeable even with a strong damage to the plant. On fruits, spots are gray-brown with a dark center, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it remains in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water when irrigated.

Prophylaxis

Removal of leaves with suspicious stains, disinfection of the ground, dressing of seeds. Quarantine suspicious plants bought at the store. If there are signs of a disease manifestation, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are sufficient, using fungicides:

• oxyhom 15-20 g per 10 l of water
• colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 l of water
• strobi fungicide, in the system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 l of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitis of chrysanthemums, to which plants of the Compositae family are most often susceptible.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic shade with a yellowish chlorous border along the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can be seen only under a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem breaks easily.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of drying out of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The pathogen is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Stored on plant debris, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, non-disinfected soil, and water droplets.

Prevention and treatment, as with anthracnose.

Dropsy of leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but caused by waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually manifests itself in succulents, typical of peperomias, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: in the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, barely noticeable pimples appear, seem watery, but in fact dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf can remain, i.e. spots are green, can acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that some of the roots die off (from overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conducting vessels, which were supplied with these roots. Since the waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will no longer recover, but if the plant is in good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) from other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not oppressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves small plots, infect 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust the watering, do not fill, after abundant watering and when compacting the soil in the pot, loosen the soil. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the pot volume.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false mealy rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (specific to the structure of the leaf). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the underside of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray bloom from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that has emerged on the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this bloom gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. With a strong degree of damage, the causative agent can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates on heavy acidic soils. The spread is aggravated by high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is not disinfected soil and seeds.

Prophylaxis

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Soil change and disinfection. If signs of disease are already detected, avoid spraying and when watering, spraying water on the leaves.

Seed preparation for sowing:

• immersing them in hot water at 50 ° C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
• soaking in a seed dressing agent, for example, Maxim

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxat, 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, ordan. These fungicides are more readily available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural plants. You can get more modern drugs: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually purchase them in collective purchases.

For the simple grower, fungicides are available:

• topaz 4 ml per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak 50 g of suspension per 10 l of water
• oxyhom 15-20 g per 10 l of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first signs of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

Powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium is powdery mildew on Oidium grapes.

Symptoms: At the onset of the disease, small mealy specks appear on flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, become saturated gray... Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Mealy bloom can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26 ° C.

Of domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulia, gloxinia, roses, gerbera, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prophylaxis

To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, sulfur pollination can be carried out 3-4 times over the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew disease. On the contrary, feeding with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases resistance to the pathogen of powdery mildew. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of a disease, you constantly need to be on the lookout - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, prophylactic spraying with milk whey (skim milk) can be carried out. Regular whole milk will work, but whey is preferable (fewer marks on the leaves), dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias), potted gerberas are especially susceptible, indoor roses, then you can use the same means as for garden plants, except for highly toxic (bayleton), but preference should be given to such fungicides as topaz, fast.

You can use the drugs Chistotsvet, Skor, Raek - all of them are available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, diluted with 2 ml per 5 l of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, we dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, a maximum of 4 treatments: the first one - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop processing 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray from powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulfate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a volume of 2 liters of liquid and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for combating powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more: Powdery mildew.

Spraying with iodine solution helps as prevention and treatment: dilute 1 ml of alcoholic pharmacy tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml with 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, like azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

• The causative agent Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. As the disease progresses, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease - high humidity and temperature in the range of 28-31 °.
• The causative agent Septoria populi, the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim along the edge, round or oval in shape.

Prophylaxis

Removal of leaves with suspicious stains, disinfection of the ground, dressing of seeds. If there are signs of a disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Septoria treatment

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to spray using chemicals: among them, a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, popular in horticulture (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (home, oxykhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). As well as:

• colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 l of water
• strobes in the system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 l of water
• fungicides: pure flowering, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml in 5 liters of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: Most often, the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive bloom. With further development, the disease spreads to leaves, flower ovaries and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. The first week on the spot there is no sporulation of the fungus, it turns pale to a straw color in the center, blurred ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray mold is similar to gray loose cotton wool or mold. Tissue necrosis develops inside the stem, while the vessels die off, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone fades.

Preventive measures include disinfection of the soil during transplantation (heating in an oven or microwave), regular airing of rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting... Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially in a cool environment, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be introduced into the soil (shedding the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of illness, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of Trichodermine (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and also coat the affected areas. Spraying with topsin-M solution (0.1%) or phytosporin solution (diluted to tea color). For severe damage, spray:

• foundation (0.2%)
• copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
• fungicides: pure flowers, fast, rayok - any dilute 4 ml in 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

Sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry soot film on aucubus, buxus, laurel. It is caused by the Capnopodium fungus, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs. Plaque itself is not harmful to the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying against pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After healing from diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm pure water, carry out the treatment with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of a weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, take a closer look at the nature of the spots, quarantine the plant.

Leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance on the upper surface of the leaf of orange-brown tubercles, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prophylaxis

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new ones bought in the store potted plants, for example, gerberas. The infection can also get in the garden soil, because rust often infects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Spray with fungicides:

• abiga-peak 50 g per 10 l of water
• bayleton 1 g per 1 l of water
• Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
• Bordeaux mixture 1%
• copper sulfate 10 g per 1 l of water
• oxyhom 15-20 g per 10 l of water
• Ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
• strobe
• topaz 4 ml per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 l of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times after 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phylosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. From home flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to disease.

Symptoms: Small, dark reddish or dark purple dots appear on the affected plants first. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leathery leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen in the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, non-disinfected soil, and water droplets.

Phylosticosis of orchids manifests itself in small specks of about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes are not formed, the disease is often called "black spot", since the leaf is mottled with small specks like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quickly enough, since orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prophylaxis

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering as needed, but not more often, pour water only at the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the leaf axils. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure the plants have enough light, weakened chlorotic leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - indicator proper ventilation- no mold in the bathroom, perimeter window frame, corners of rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the specific requirements of orchids and other plants - deviation from the norm and habitual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

• fungicide Vectra - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 l of water
• strobe - 4 g per 10 l of water
• oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
• fungicides: pure flowering, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilution of 1 ml per 1 liter of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spraying at the appearance of the first signs of a disease or prophylactic, then subsequent at intervals of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut out the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can trim the leaf only when it has already turned very yellow. For the rest, treat by spraying.

Root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, etc. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (stalk, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, Saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

Black leg - the scourge of seedlings, manifests itself in decay of the lower part of the shoot, cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects the waterlogged soil, poor aeration, if the lumps of earth are so dense that there is a constantly anaerobic environment around the roots. The source of infection is non-sterilized soil mixtures, inventory, pots and seed boxes after diseased plants.

Late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down its growth, withers somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not wither, but are covered with brown extensive spots that begin from the central vein.

Prophylaxis

Pick up correct soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to help structure the soil. Do not use small river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earthen mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, you can buy these in specialized departments and stores of aquaristics, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add Glyocladin to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil is not waterlogged, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, it means that the soil in the pot should dry out about 1/2 or 1/3 of the top of the pot by the next watering. If you immerse your finger in the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you immerse your finger in the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter there). Of course, you shouldn't stick your fingers into the ground before every watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering, so that it has time to dry out in the depths. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature has dropped, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, only cut off healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the soil for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneriaceae, gardenia, shefflera). Old, already used pots, in which the plants have died, must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a dressing agent, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots have died, and most of the shoots have wilted, have lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig is blackened by the cutting on rooting, you can cut it off, drop phytosporin into the water and put it back on rooting.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is necessary to urgently remove the plant from the pot. Flush the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, process them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

• alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 l of water
• gamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
• Previcour Energy 3 ml in 2 L of water
• bactofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
• oxyhom 10 g per 5 l of water
• home 20 g per 5 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Mottling

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia, etc. Diseases are called spots, the causative agent of which is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not expressed. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which, with the spread of the disease, grow in size, merge and affect the entire leaf as a whole. If the plant is strong enough, disease resistant, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out slowly as well.

Spot prevention

Violations of conditions of detention contribute to the development of diseases. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or when transporting from the store home in the cold season). Spots can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid overcrowding and over-watering. Ventilate the room, greenhouses regularly and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of phytosporin-M or bactofit. You can add glyocladin tablets to the pots when planting.

Control measures

V garden conditions collect and destroy any plant debris stained by dead plants. For indoor flowers, trim off affected leaves and branches. Spray with fungicides that can fight most fungal infections.

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 l of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 l of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 l of water
• 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions)
• copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 l of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

At home, indoor flowers from spots should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use the preparations Purest color, Skor, Raek - all of them are produced in small packaging, contain the same active substance- difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of solution) to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Raek.

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospore Staganospora. A disease characteristic of the hippeastrum and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not start or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns to the rudiments of the leaves and peduncles - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can also treat a red burn of the hippeastrum with other fungicides:

• foundationholm (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water
• oxyhom 4 g per 1 liter of water

Read more about Hippeastrum Rot Treatment and discussion on the Red Burn forum

Black spot

The causative agent is mushrooms of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

• Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large, rounded spots, initially yellowish and vague. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stromas (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
• Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular, large and small.
• Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, punctate or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and convex stroma.
• Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high air humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 l of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• benomyl (basezol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 l of water
• oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
• home 40 g per 10 l of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spraying three times after 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases, the so-called vascular wilting - pathogens enter through the roots and infect the vascular system of plants, clog the vascular lumens with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to wilt.

Tracheomycosis includes diseases such as:

• verticillium wilt (verticillosis)
• fusarium wilting (fusarium)
• malsecco in citrus

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only by laboratory, all are incurable, found at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleya and others suffer especially from tracheomycosis. Other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables are prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus are able to resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are called simply: wilt - from wilt - wilt.

Verticillary wilting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and multiplies systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: at the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of mezzanine necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries up. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry out. On the cut of the stem, the browning of the vessels is noticeable. The lumens of the vessels are filled with a thin multicellular mycelium. Plants stunted, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying out and dying off of individual branches of the bush. If conditions are favorable, the disease spreads to other branches and the entire plant dies rather quickly. If unfavorable conditions develop for the development of the fungus, then the disease can drag on for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.

The pathogen remains in the soil in the form of microlerotia for several years. Optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia 25-27 °, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value of 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate into the conductive tissue, where the mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, then the wilting of the leaves begins from the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prophylaxis

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without preliminary treatment: sprinkle on a baking sheet in a layer of 5 cm, warm up at a maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, maxim fungicide)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and spread through the conducting vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationol, Vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or Topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (Fusarium wilting)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily on dying sites. The course of the disease can be tracheomycotic wilting or root decay. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and penetrates the plant through the soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. Increased humidity of the air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of decay of the roots and root collar. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In the affected plants, the tips of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to the blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, darkening of the vessels is also visible on the cross section. But sometimes tracheomycosis manifests itself only on a part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If during the cut (clean cut without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of progress of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is low, then the disease can turn into a chronic form, then the plant slowly withers over 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with 5% copper sulfate solution, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

• Vectra 3 ml per 10 l of water
• benomyl (foundation) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids, 1 g per 100 ml
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (discard or cook the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution and spray thoroughly on the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, styrofoam, cork). Do not spray, water by immersion if necessary for a short time (5 minutes is sufficient). It is advisable to keep sick orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense, but diffused lighting (it is possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by spilling it properly with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), Fitosporin-M, Maxim, or by adding trichodermine. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even a garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

Indoor plants all year round delight the eye with leaves, bizarre shapes and exquisite flowers. Most of these plants were brought to us from distant countries and each of them has its own biological cycle, its own requirements for the microclimate. Some need a lot of light, others need tropical humidity. Some do not tolerate waterlogging, others need abundant watering.

These exotic aliens, growing up in cramped pots, in the conditions of city apartments, will reward you with amazing beauty, feeling care and attention. Each blossoming flower, each sprouted shoot raises the mood and gives a new charge of vivacity. To fully enjoy the beauty of indoor plants, you need to know what diseases your green pets can be affected by.

Diseases of indoor plants can be caused by various factors - improper watering, poor lighting, humidity, viral microorganisms or pests.

Each disease of a houseplant has its own characteristics. Let's take a look at some of them.

1. Yellowing of leaves

Yellowing of the leaves of the ficus is the first sign of the disease

Leaves may turn yellow for the following reasons:

• natural aging process. In this case, pruning or removal of old leaves is performed;
• lack of moisture in the soil or air. Carry out regular spraying and observe the correct watering regime;
• from drafts. Most often suffer from drafts tropical plants... It is necessary to rearrange the flower in a protected warm place;
• insufficient lighting. Leaves turn yellow on the dark side of the room. The plant needs to choose a brighter place, or additionally illuminate;
• lack of nitrogen in the soil. In this case, you should feed the flower with nitrogen or organic fertilizer.

2. Spots on the leaves

The appearance of spots of different colors on the leaves is the first sign of a plant being damaged by a fungus.

Spots and drying of begonia leaves

Most often, camellia, palm, orchid, anthurium are affected. The spots can be of different colors, most often of fungal origin, but can be caused by viruses or microorganisms.

It is necessary to spray the plant with a fungicide, remove the affected leaves and reduce watering.

3. Powdery mildew

White bloom on leaves, flowers, shoots. At the first sign, white spots can be easily erased with your fingers; if they reappear, treatment should be taken. Simply removing the leaves will not always help. the disease can spread to healthy areas of the plant.

The causes of the disease can be waterlogging of the soil and an increased temperature in the room.

Plants are treated by spraying a preparation containing sulfur. The infected leaves are removed. Spray either every day or every other day. Typically, the dose and treatment time period is indicated on the drug.

Topaz is one of the drugs to combat powdery mildew

Sulfur (acarofungicide) can be sold in the form of a powder, paste or ready-made preparation, for example, the most common and inexpensive one is TOPAZ.

4. Gray rot

Leaves, stems, buds are covered with gray mold.

Plants with soft succulent leaves are affected: gloxinia, saintpaulia, cyclamen.

The affected parts of the plant must be removed and the flower treated with a fungicide, the room must be regularly ventilated.

5. Black leg

The stalk of the plant turns black and dies off. In this case, the diseased stalk must be removed immediately.

Blackfoot is bad

The black leg develops from excess moisture in the soil or indoors. To prevent this disease, make good drainage when planting, ventilate the room more often.

6. Sticky plaque on the leaves

The first sign of aphid damage.

Aphids on the leaves home plant invisible at first sight

Spray the plant with insecticides - "Fitoferm" or "Aktara".

7. Spider mite

Small pest in the form of a cobweb at the bottom of the leaf. The appearance of a mite is often favored by too dry air in the room.

A neglected flower requires attention and the fight against spider mites

It affects all plants, especially palms, ficuses, cacti. The preparations "Mavrik", "Vertimek" help well.

8. Whitefly

A very small, barely noticeable insect that sucks the sap from the plant.

The leaves turn yellow, begin to dry and fall off. To destroy this pest, you need to periodically treat the plant with an insecticide.

A pest that affects almost all types of indoor plants.

Appears in the form of a continuous growth (these are scale eggs) on leaves, stems, buds, flowers. To get rid of the scabbard, it is necessary to rinse the flower with Vertimek several times.

A plant, but afraid of drafts ... very strange, - thought the Little Prince about the rose. What a difficult character this flower has.

Flowers, like people, live, grow, develop and delight us with lush flowering, if they are treated with love and provide them with proper lighting, watering and fertilizing. Otherwise, they begin to hurt and they are affected by fungal, bacterial, viral diseases, which not only reduce their decorative effect, but can also lead to the death of one or all of the plants in the house, if urgent measures are not taken! Diseases of indoor plants caused by fungi are treatable. Plants infected with viruses are destroyed along with the flowerpot so that the disease does not affect the rest of the flowers.

And if you value your plants, or have collected a large collection of varietal indoor flowers, then you need to check their health status regularly so that in the event of a disease, they do not allow it to spread.

Causes of diseases

Lack of moisture, or waterlogging, dry or too humid air, as well as a lack or excess of lighting are the main reasons that your plant begins to ache. Indoor plant diseases also occur due to poor soil quality, which may not be suitable for the plant. One diseased plant can “infect” all plants in a room. When purchasing a flower from a greenhouse, you must remember that it grew in special conditions of the microclimate, and its effeminacy makes it not prepared for life at home. Therefore, during the acclimatization period, the flower can be sore, look depressed and even shed its leaves.

First of all, you need to find out the cause that caused the disease, and thus create healthier living conditions for the plant. If the color of the leaves has changed, it is worth checking the roots of the plant. After making sure that they are healthy and that no disease or pest has been identified on them, put the flower in a brighter place and feed it with fertilizers, since it simply does not have enough nutrients. Refresh the soil. Light-loving flowers can hurt and turn yellow, with a lack of light, and they need to be transferred to a more lighted window. Some shade-loving plants, such as begonia, aspidistra or fern, on the other hand, can get sick from too bright light, turn yellow and get burned, and are best placed on the west, east and north side. A clogged drain, in a flowerpot, or lack of it, can cause stagnant water and root rot. Lack of moisture can also damage the roots. Yellowing of the leaves can also be associated with sharp fluctuations in indoor temperatures. Too dry air is the main reason for the appearance of diseases and damage to plants by dangerous insect pests - spider mites and thrips, which can contribute to the appearance of a dangerous disease on them - soot fungus. Therefore, it is so important to spray flowers with water from a spray bottle (the exception will be plants with fleecy leaves - saintpaulia, aichrizon). Water the plants only with settled water at room temperature so that the roots of the plant do not receive a shock.

List of the most common diseases of indoor plants

Fungal diseases

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most common and well-known plant diseases. It is caused by the appearance of the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa on the plant. It is not difficult to define it. Whitish powdery spots form on the leaves of the plant and flowers, which can be easily removed by hand. But they reappear and turn gray. With an increase in the mycelium, the spots turn brown and thicken. The fungus infects the leaves on both sides of the leaf, and they begin to wither, dry out and fall off, like buds and flowers. The emergence and development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity (above 80%) and an air temperature of 20-22 degrees Celsius.

How to fight?

At the beginning of the disease, you can remove the affected parts of the plant and treat it with special preparations designed to combat this disease, or copper oxychloride - 0.5%, potassium permanganate - at the rate of 2 grams per 10 liters of water, soda ash combined with soap (50 grams of soda and the same amount of soap for a bucket of water). They help to fight the fungus, such means - Skor, Dektra, Topaz and antibiotics diluted in water - penicillin, streptomycin, terramycin, the ratio is 50x50. Some indoor plants are very susceptible to this disease, therefore, to prevent the disease, indoor roses need to be pollinated with sulfur powder 2 times a summer, and fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Downy mildew

Downy mildew (downy mildew) is a disease that affects many indoor plants. Its causative agent is the fungus Peronospors sparsa. Basically, the disease affects the leaves, but further spreads to flowers, stems. On the upper part of the leaves, grayish-yellow spots are formed, which increase over time. On the lower part of the leaf, you can see a gray bloom - mycelium. Over time, the mycelium darkens and thickens. Leaves damaged by downy mildew wrinkle and dry out.

How to fight?

Diseased leaves must be removed. If the plant is severely affected, it is best to discard it. Treat the diseased flower and other plants in the house with a solution of 1% copper sulfate, soda ash, remembering to rinse the lower part of the leaves. Used to treat plants and drugs such as Cuproxat and Oxyhom. Etching is carried out 5 times, every 7 days.

Gray rot

The fungus of the genus Botrytis settles on dying plant parts. But if conditions are favorable, it can strike and absolutely healthy flower... In conditions of high humidity, the fungus appears on flowers and buds of a houseplant, in the form of brown or brown specks rot, with a white coating, like mold or cotton wool. The affected areas soften and wither.

How to fight?

As a preventive measure, and in order to avoid the appearance of disease, the room in which the plants are located must be ventilated. Remove dying leaves, and avoid waterlogging of the soil. Before planting, the plants are added to the soil with preparations such as Zaslon, Barrier or Trichodermin. If the flower is sick, remove the infected parts from it, and treat with a 0.25% solution of foundationol, copper-soap solution - a mixture of laundry soap and copper sulfate - 2% x 0.2%) or other antifungal drugs. The number of treatments is at least 4, with breaks of 10 days.

Mottling

Spots include a whole group of fungal and bacterial diseases. Their pathogens include such types of fungi as - Pestalotia, Septoria, Phyllosticta, Colletotrichum, Vermicularia, Ascochyta, and others. Dry or wet spots form on the leaves of the plant, which increase over time and can cause the death of the entire plant. Spots include: septoria, red burn, anthracnose, ascochitosis and phyllostictosis.

How to fight?

If the plants are heavily infested, it is best to destroy them to avoid disease of all flowers. With a small, initial stage of infection, you can try to save the plant by treating it with antifungal drugs - Abiga-Peak, Oxyhom, copper sulfate, Fundazol, Skor, Acrobat MC and others. Processing is carried out 4 to 5 times, with a break per week. To avoid the appearance of spots, it is necessary to give them more light, ventilate the premises, and avoid a large crowding of flowers. As a preventive measure, plants are watered with Fitosporin-M.

Rlust

Rust is a fungal disease caused by the fungi - Puccinia and Phragmidium. Brown (rusty) tubercles appear on the surface of the leaves, and pustules appear on the lower part of the leaf. The spots turn into stripes, and the leaves dry and disappear.

How to fight?

To reduce the risk of disease, it is necessary to reduce the humidity of the air, and do not overfill the plants. If you find that your flower is infected with rust, remove all parts of the infected branches and leaves, and treat the plant with fungicides such as Strobi, Vectra, Topaz, copper sulfate solution or cuproxate. Etching should be carried out at least 3 times, every 7-10 days.

Sooty fungus

The sooty fungus, even in appearance, looks like a film of gray-black soot. It is caused by the fungus - Capnopodium, the appearance of which is facilitated by the secretion of aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies. It does not lead to the death of the plant, but clogs the mouths of the leaves, and the plant weakens and stops growing.

How to fight?

To get rid of the sooty fungus, you must first remove the pests and wash off all the sticky secretions from the flower. Diseased plants are washed with soapy water, and treated with systemic fungicides against insect pests. Also, the affected plant can be washed with a solution of laundry soap and vitriol - 2% x 0.2%.

Fusarium or tracheomycosis

Fusarium is one of the very dangerous diseases, and it is caused by the fungi - Fusarium. It affects both young and adult plants. Mushrooms are found in the soil and get into plants, in places of its wounds or cuts. Young plants die earlier, as they rot - the roots and root collar. In adult plants, the leaves and stem become brown and wither. Weakened plants are most susceptible to fusarium. The disease can occur in both chronic and acute forms, when the flower dies in just one week.

How to fight?

To avoid the appearance of fusarium, the room should be often ventilated, avoiding high humidity, loosen the soil in flowerpots and sterilize the tool when working with plants (pruning, cuttings). As a prophylaxis, you can also use the drug Fitosporin-M, which is used to treat the soil before planting a plant. It is better to destroy diseased plants, or to preserve part of a healthy cuttings, for its rooting, by treating the plant with Benomil or Vectra.

Root Rot and Blackleg

These diseases are caused by several types of fungi - Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Pythium. Pelargoniums suffer most from these diseases. The roots of the flower turn black and completely rot. In Saintpaulia, this disease first causes wilting of the leaves, and after that its roots rot and the flower dies. This is due to stagnant water and too dense clod of soil that does not loosen. The disease may appear due to the use of non-sterilized soil and equipment.

How to fight?

Part of the diseased plant will have to be removed. And try not to overflow the plant in order to prevent rotting of its root system. You can save a flower by taking part of its apical cutting in order to root it again.

Late blight

Late blight is a fungal disease that Saintpaulias - violets often suffer from. At first, the plant stops growing, after that it withers, and its leaves change color. After that, the root system of the flower completely rots, and it dies. Large plants with dense leaves, they can last longer with this disease, and first brown spots appear near the central veins. The main reason disease is the overflow of water, and its stagnation.

How to fight?

If a plant is damaged by late blight, it is better to destroy it. In the initial stage, remove the infected part and treat the flower with copper sulfate, cuproxate or colloidal sulfur.

Bacterial diseases

Bacterial wilting

The disease manifests itself when the turgor of the plant loses its density and withers. Vitreous or oily spots develop on the leaves, which quickly enlarge, affecting the entire plant. After that, the shoots wither, and then all the plants disappear. Bacteria enter the vessels of the plant and release toxins that prevent it from developing and prevent the normal movement of water.

How to fight?

Avoid waterlogging of the soil and stagnant water, as well as high air humidity. It is better to destroy a diseased plant, since it will still not be possible to save it.

Bacterial cancer

Bacterial cancer manifests itself as growths that resemble healthy plant tissue. They can appear on stems or roots, forming tumor-like growths. Sometimes cancer appears on fruits and stems in the form of spots that deform the leaf in large warty growths. A large number of such growths do not allow the plant to develop and they may die.

How to fight?

In order to prevent the appearance of the disease, it is necessary to constantly disinfect the substrate and all equipment, tools, and also treat your hands with alcohol before working with it. But plant pests can also carry cancer. If the roots were damaged during transplantation, the place of damage should be sprinkled with charcoal. If the flower is sick, then at the initial stage you can try to save it by removing the affected areas and treating it with copper sulfate. But in general, such plants are best destroyed.

Dropsy of leaves

This disease is not caused by bacteria or fungi. The plant falls ill with dropsy when it lacks light, and its soil substrate is constantly waterlogged. On the leaves of the plant, watery growths appear on their underside.

How to fight?

Provide the plant with proper care and remove diseased leaves. And then a healthy green crown will appear on it again, and it will not hurt.

Viral diseases

Mosaic disease

Mosaic disease is a viral disease that manifests itself as mosaic-like spots and stripes. They can form concentric patterns on the leaves of the plant. The mosaic deforms the leaves, making them curly or wrinkled. Most often, this disease affects indoor flowers such as primroses, calla lilies and pelargoniums.

How to fight?

It is better to destroy the plant, since viral diseases belong to the group of diseases that are practically incurable, and if you leave the flower, then the virus can in a short time infect all the plants in the house.

Curly leaves

Curl is a viral disease, and it causes small dry spots to appear on the leaves of the plant. The leaves become deformed, become curly, and the flowers dry out. The disease can be accompanied by gray-white lines and spots. Most often, this disease affects pelargonium, poinsettia and primrose.

How to fight?

Viral diseases cannot be treated, and the plant must be destroyed, as well as disinfected in the place where it stood, and treat the rest of the plants in the house with special protective drugs.

Yellowing of leaves

Jaundice refers to a viral disease that stains the leaves green-yellow or yellow... The shoots begin to stagnate and become very brittle, due to the fact that starch is formed in them. A mosaic pattern appears on the leaves.

How to fight?

It can be very difficult to determine what kind of viral disease a plant is affected by. To date, there are no chemicals that could fight them. Therefore, the main methods of struggle are preventive measures that prevent the disease itself. These diseases and plant pests are transferred. If the disease has been detected, it is better to destroy the plant.

Prevention of diseases of indoor plants

It can be very difficult to refrain from buying a new flower. Or maybe your friends for your birthday brought you not a bouquet of cut flowers, but a plant in a flowerpot? Then you need to decide where it will stand. First of all, look at the flower for pests and diseases (spots, curl of leaves, cobwebs, light or dark points, thickenings, etc.). Quarantine the flower separately from other plants for at least a month.

If one or two plants get sick, put them separately from the rest of the flowerpots and carry out preventive treatment with special protective agents for all flowers in the house. It is better to discard heavily affected plants.