Your favorite shoes are probably familiar with the delights of a poorly performing city storm. Often, after a "dense" meeting with deep puddles accumulated on the asphalt, adorable shoes and boots leave only pleasant memories and photographs of themselves. For a city dweller, the loss of shoes is the maximum damage, the owner of a country house is damaged more extensively. In order for the atmospheric water not to slowly but persistently destroy the foundation, not flood the basements, or contribute to the rotting of the root system of plants on the site, drainage of water is required. A not too complicated storm sewer system with their own hands can well be organized by a contractor who has nothing to do with construction specialties.
Purpose and specifics of the stormwater device
A storm sewer is a complex of devices and channels that collects, filters and removes atmospheric moisture into filtration fields, special reservoirs, reservoirs. Its task is to eliminate excess moisture that creates discomfort, destroys structures and shortens the life cycle of plants.
The storm drain is a linear network that includes such standard elements as:
- storm water inlets, represented by funnels, pallets, linear trays, collecting water;
- gutters, pipes, trays transporting water to sand traps - filtration devices, and further to collectors, ditches, reservoirs, to unloading fields;
- inspection wells required to control the stormwater system;
filters, sand traps that retain soil particles, plant fibers and debris that protect the network from contamination.
The stormwater drain is a complex of channels and devices that collect excess atmospheric moisture, filter them and drain them first into a collector well, then to unloading points
Options for storm water inlets: on the left is the door sump, in the middle there is a funnel receiving water from the drain, on the right is a gutter with a sand trap
All elements are combined into an integral system operating on a linear or point technology. If storm sewer channels are laid in the ground, pipes are used for their construction. In the surface ditches, gutters and trays made of plastic, asbestos or concrete are installed.
Important. To ensure the natural movement of rain and melt water to the places of filtration and unloading, pipes, trays, gutters are laid with a slope towards the catchment devices and unloading places.
Classification by the method of collection of effluents
Depending on the collection principle, according to which the storm sewer device is performed, all existing storm drains are divided into two types.
- Point systems, which include storm water inlets installed under the gutters of internal and external gutters. Each device that receives atmospheric water is connected to a common line. According to the technical conditions, storm water inlets are equipped with special gratings and sand traps, preventing the penetration of suspended soil particles, plant residues, and debris into the system.
Point type storm drain: the storm water inlet is installed under the gutter, the funnel receiving water is equipped with a filter mesh and an internal basket for collecting litter
- A linear type of storm drain, which is a network of canals laid underground or in slightly buried trenches. Trays that collect and transfer water, laid in an open way, are also equipped with sand traps and equipped with grates. Only grilles are installed along the entire line. In contrast to the point scheme, linear sewage collects water not only from roof drains, but also from paths, from areas covered with concrete, paved with paving bricks. This type of sewer "covers" and handles more objects.
A linear storm drainage scheme can cover a large area, drain wastewater not only from the roof, but also from landscaped areas, from sidewalks, and from those sides of the house where, due to the specifics of the pitched structure, there are no drains
Focusing on the design differences and the degree of coverage of the territory, the type of system is selected. However, these are not fundamental selection criteria. Basically, storm sewers in the country are arranged according to the experience in the organization and operation of storm sewers available in a particular area. Starting from it, they determine both the type of channel laying and the depth of their laying.
Preliminary calculations and design
Implementation of plans without calculations is a waste of money. If the system does not cope with the function assigned to it by the owner, you should not undertake its construction at all, and too powerful storm sewers of a private house will "eat up" a lot of financial resources.
Video: design and installation rules
Information required for calculations
- Data on the average amount of precipitation recorded by meteorologists in a particular area. You can find them in SNiP 2.04.03-85.
- The frequency of rains, the thickness of the snow cover, necessary for those who plan to use the system and to drain melt water.
- The drainage area. For a point variety, this is the roof area. Moreover, not the full value, but the value of its projection in the plane. For a linear system, the drainage area will be the sum of the areas of all processed objects.
- Physical and mechanical characteristics of the soils available on the site.
- The presence and location of the communications already existing on the site.
Calculation of the volume of discharged wastewater
The above exact values of the amount and intensity of precipitation are the result of many years of research on physical phenomena in the atmosphere of a given area. They can be found in SNiP or obtained from the local meteorological service. Further calculations are performed using the formula.
The formula for calculating the flow rate of atmospheric water, as well as the constants and variables used in the calculations
The correction factor used in this formula:
- 0.4 for areas covered with gravel;
- 0.85 for concreted areas;
- 0.95 for asphalted areas and paths;
- 1.0 for roofs.
We got the volume value, then the required pipeline diameter is determined according to the tables of the current SNiP.
Channel laying depth
It is necessary to lay trays or channels from pipes at the depth at which they are usually laid in a given region. You can find out the exact value in the construction organization or ask the neighbors who have already equipped their site with a stormwater. In the middle lane, the rainwater drainage system is usually arranged at a depth of 0.3 meters, if the diameter of the pipeline or open trays is not more than 50 cm. Trays and pipes with larger dimensions are buried by 0.7 m.
An important point. If there is a drainage system on the site, the storm sewer is laid above the drain.
If a drainage system has already been laid on the territory, the storm drain is placed above
The high cost of earthworks usually does not stimulate the desire of professional installation customers to go deep into the ground. Even if it is decided to do the storm sewer device with your own hands, there is no point in burying it too deeply. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection wells below the level of seasonal freezing, as instructed by GOSTs. They can be placed higher, insulated with heat-insulating material - geotextile and a layer of rubble that protects the network from freezing. Due to the insignificant deepening, the labor intensity of the work is significantly reduced.
Insulation of storm sewers in case of insignificant deepening is carried out from a layer of geotextile and a layer of rubble, thanks to the protection of channels from freezing, you can significantly save on earthwork
However, it should not be forgotten that the channels to the collection and cleaning devices must be led at an angle. This means that the level of the place of entry into the collector well must be below the level of the tray or pipe extending from the storm water inlet. To accurately calculate the depth of their installation, you need to draw a site plan and, taking into account the slope of the channels, calculate everything.
The scheme of the stormwater drainage device, the channels of which are laid below the freezing depth, the insulating geotextile protects in this case from the aggression of groundwater
Slope standards and norms
GOST regulates the minimum slope for pipes with a 150 mm diameter of 0.008 (slope value in mm / m). Pipes with a section of 200 mm are laid at an angle of 0.007. Pipe slopes may vary slightly depending on site conditions. The largest slope is 0.02 in the zone of connection of the canal to the storm water inlet, since in this place it is necessary to increase the speed of the gravity of water. In front of the sand traps, the speed of the current must slow down so that the suspended particles can "settle", the angle of inclination is the smallest there.
Devices for collecting water in envelope-type systems with storm inlets-funnels are installed at the intersection points of the slopes.
The process and specifics of stormwater installation
The rules for carrying out installation work on the installation of storm drains are identical to the principles of laying ordinary external sewer pipelines. However, if the house is not equipped with gutters, you need to start with their device.
The rules for installing a stormwater drainage system are similar to the rules for laying a conventional sewage system.
Construction of the roofing component
- In the ceilings of the house, you need to make holes for storm water inlets. After installing the devices and their attachment to the bitumen mastic, the junction points must be sealed.
- Waste pipes and risers are being installed.
- All elements must be attached to the structures of the house with clamps.
Scheme of the roofing part of the storm drain: 1. gutter; 2. the corner of the gutter is external; 3. inner corner of the gutter; 4. gutter plug; 5. gutter connector; 6.hook; 7. hook; 8. funnel; 9. drainage funnel; 10. pipe elbow; 11. drain pipe; 12. connecting pipe; 13. pipe bracket (for brick); 14. pipe bracket (for wood); 15. drain knee; 16.pipe tee
Underground construction
According to the planned plan, drawn up taking into account the slopes and the depth of the canals adopted in this region, it is necessary to dig a trench. If it is supposed to insulate the pipeline by forming a shell of geotextiles and rubble around it, or to arrange a cushion of sand, their power should also be taken into account. Here's how to proceed:
- The bottom of the trench is thoroughly rammed before installation. Large stones encountered during digging are removed, the holes formed after their removal are covered with soil.
- A sand pillow is poured onto the bottom, its standard thickness is 20 cm.
- A pit is being formed for the installation of a collection tank. It is easiest to use a ready-made plastic container as a collector, but if you wish, you can make a collector well yourself by pouring concrete into the formwork arranged in advance.
Pipes are laid in tamped ditches and equipped with sand cushions; fittings are used to connect them into a single system.
The connections of the gutters laid underground are made using fittings
- It is recommended to include viewing wells in the straight branches of the storm drain, with a length of more than 10 m.
- Sand traps must be installed at the points of joining of collectors and pipelines that receive atmospheric water.
- All devices and devices are connected in one circuit, the joints of the components are sealed.
Before backfilling the trench, it is necessary to carry out tests by pouring water into the water intakes. No weak points found as a result of testing? We fill up the system laid in the trench with soil, and we equip the gutters, trays, pallets with gratings.
Before backfilling the trench, the constructed system must be checked, identified and eliminated all defects and leaks, if any.
Advice. Pitched roof structures are not equipped with gutters on all sides. Where they are not available, it is recommended to install gutters with gratings and include them in the general network.
It is forbidden to unload the city collector well into the general sewerage network due to the presence of chemicals and oil products in the effluent. The owner of a country house can freely connect the storm drain to the sewer, which is his property, because there are no dangerous components that require fine cleaning in it.
After cleaning in a sand trap, water enters the sewer, from there it can be distributed directly into the ground, unloaded into reservoirs or into the ordinary sewer network of a private house
Improvement of the house and the surrounding area with a surface drainage system will help extend the service life of structures, relieve owners of puddles and slush, and prevent plant roots from rotting. A simple downpour of the site with your own hands can be mounted by the owner himself, but even if you contact the builders, information about the specifics of its organization will not interfere. The owner himself and will be able to track violations, and repair, and clean.
The question of what a storm sewer is is no longer something mysterious and incomprehensible. The media constantly discusses topics on the correct operation of this type of sewerage, especially when the cities are flooded with rain. This system is specially designed to drain rain and melt water. And in private housing construction today it is used everywhere. Out-of-town developers invest a lot of money in storm water drainage to protect their site from flooding.
The storm sewer device is simple. This is a network of canals, tunnels or pipes that drain rain and melt water from the foundation of the house and from the territory of the site. The withdrawal is organized outside the site into natural reservoirs, ditches or ravines. Sometimes tanks are installed in the ground, where water is simply collected, and then pumped further. In this case, the sewer network is a gravity system. Therefore, it is very important to correctly set the angle of inclination of pipes or channels from the house towards the outlet outside the territory. By the way, the tilt angle varies between 3-7 degrees.
Storm system device
Types of storm sewers
There are two types of rainstorms:
An example of an open and closed type of storm sewer.
- Open type. These are dug ditches in which concrete or plastic trays are laid. From above, the tray system is closed with metal or plastic gratings. Before the appearance of trays, dug ditches (trenches) were concreted by hand, or simply covered with rubble or gravel.
- Closed. It is an underground pipe network. Today, ordinary plastic sewer pipes are used, which are connected to each other in a bell-shaped manner.
Closed (underground) storm sewer scheme
We must pay tribute that both varieties are used today in suburban areas in equal proportions. At the same time, storm sewer trays (concrete or plastic) are easier to install. The latter are easier, which means that it is easier to work with them, which is why they are so popular and in demand. We also recommend that you read the article about for a private house, how it works, read on our website.
Installation of stormwater
The entire installation process must be divided into three main stages:
- Create a diagram and calculate the network traffic.
- Carry out preparatory work.
- The installation itself is carried out directly.
Scheme and calculation
First of all, a schema is created. The stormwater system should be installed where rain and melt water collects in large quantities. And these are the slopes of the roofs, under which the drain is installed. It is under the vertical pipe risers of the drainage system that the receiving elements of the storm drain must be installed. That is, these will be the starting points for the beginning of the circuit. It turns out that how many risers are at the drain, so many sewer branches will have to be installed.
The opposite extreme point is a drainage well. It is installed in the lowest place of the suburban area. Therefore, this place must be found and marked in advance.
Storm drainage scheme.
Now we put the diagram on paper:
- First, we mark the location of the well.
- Under the drains of the main house, we apply the location of the storm water inlets.
- A straight line is drawn between the well and the receiver closest to it. This is the main storm sewer circuit.
- The rest of the storm water inlets for the storm sewer are combined into a single circuit and brought to the main branch.
On the site, in addition to the main house, there are also auxiliary buildings: a garage, a bathhouse, a summer kitchen and others. They are also installed under their roofs, which means that a storm drain will have to be carried out for these buildings. Everything is done in the same way as with the main house system. Only connect their main circuit to the main sewer circuit.
The connection of all branches into a single network can be done in two ways:
- herringbone, when the docking of different sewer branches is made at angles to the main circuit;
- circular, when the main contour is drawn, and all other branches are connected to it through the combined rounded sections.
Usually, the first option is used, as the simplest and cheapest.
Now for the calculation. There is a diagram, on it you can accurately calculate the number of storm inlets, fittings, manholes and the total length of the required pipes.
Attention! Inspection wells are needed to control the operation of the storm drain, and, if necessary, to clean it. These devices are installed every 50 m. They are not installed in small suburban areas.
Preparatory work
First of all, the scheme is transferred to the site. They simply install pegs that are tied with twine or twine. Now you need to take shovels in your hands and dig trenches under the sewer pipe.
Since there are no serious requirements for stormwater drainage, except for a correctly set angle of inclination, the pipes are buried at a shallow depth. The drainage of rain and melt water is carried out only at positive temperatures, so you do not need to pay attention to the fact that the piping will freeze. Accordingly, the volume of earthworks will be small.
The most important thing in the process of digging trenches is to at least slightly hold the slope towards the well. Be sure to immediately dig a pit under the well. It can be assembled from reinforced concrete rings, bricks, blocks, or stone. But today, more and more often, plastic containers of different sizes and shapes are used for this. This means that the pit must be dug under the parameters of the purchased tank.
The bottom of the trenches is covered with sand. Try to maintain the slope at least visually. In principle, at this stage, the preparatory stage can be considered complete.
Assembly process
The installation of the storm sewer has reached its main stage - the laying of pipes or trays and the assembly of the network. This is the most important process on which the efficient and correct operation of the entire system depends. As for pipes, ordinary sewer products with a diameter of 100-110 mm are used for stormwater. They are stacked by inserting into each other. When joining adjacent branches, the connection is made by fittings: bends, tees, crosses.
It is at this stage that it is necessary to ensure that the angle of inclination along the entire length of the contours is the same. Therefore, when laying each pipe, check it for inclination using a level or goniometer. If the slope is large, then a layer of sand is poured under the lower edge of the pipe. If it is small, then, on the contrary, the filled layer is reduced.
When the entire network is assembled, proceed to the installation of a sewer well. The main task, if a ready-made tank is purchased, is to set it up so that its inlet pipe becomes a continuation of the sewer pipe in one straight line. The elbow (knee) in this place is not the best choice. This is the first thing.
Second, it is important that the inlet is flush with the supply pipe. Therefore, first storm sewage is collected, meaning pipes, and then a plastic well is installed. If its inlet pipe turned out to be much lower than the sewer pipe, then the tank is pulled out and a sand bed is made under it. If it turned out to be higher, then the bottom of the pit is reduced by digging out part of the soil or sand cushion.
Installation of storm water inlets
Installation of a storm water inlet for a private house
Despite the seeming simplicity of this installation operation, there are several rather serious nuances in it that affect the quality of the final result. Here is the sequence for installing this device:
- In places where storm water inlets are installed, pits are dug 15 cm deeper than the height of the device, and on the sides they are 30 cm more than the side of the device.
- A cement-sand mixture is poured onto the bottom. Align it and ram it. Backfill thickness - 10 cm.
- A polyethylene film folded in half is laid inside the hole. Laying is done so that the polyethylene covers the walls of the recess. This is a waterproofing that will prevent the concrete solution from penetrating the ground and the pillow.
- The bottom is poured with concrete mortar 2-5 cm thick.
- Install a storm water inlet, set it on a level.
- It is connected to a pipe with a double-sided coupling or two branches. The latter option is used only if the sewer pipe is located much lower than the installation level of the storm water inlet.
- Concrete is poured into the gap between the walls of the recess and the installed device.
- As soon as the concrete "grabs", a siphon, a sand collector and a grate are installed inside the gully body.
Attention! The stormwater inlet is installed in height so that its protective grill is located on the same level with the coating near the foundation. It can be blind areas or sidewalk: tiles, stone, asphalt, etc.
This is how a storm drain is constructed with your own hands from sewer pipes.
Installation of trays
As for the installation of storm sewer trays, then, purely schematically, this process is no different from the previous one. That is, the main contour is created, to which the secondary branches of the network are attached.
Here it is necessary to decide first of all the question of which material to choose the tray from.
And two purely constructive points. To begin with, the storm sewer must have one hundred percent tightness at the junction of the trays. Therefore, manufacturers today offer trays with tongue-and-groove connecting locks. This is additionally convenient in the sense that when connecting two elements there is no need to check how tightly one tray fits into the other. That is, they inserted the thorn of one into the groove of the other - and this is a guarantee of the tightness of the connection.
The second structural element is the factory bias. All this consists in the fact that the tray itself is a straight product. But its grooved part is made at an angle. That is, on one side, the bottom is thicker, on the opposite, thinner. Therefore, when a storm drain is being built from such trays, then the trenches for them do not need to be dug with a slope. The bottom levels out horizontally, the same is done with the sand cushion. The products themselves are also displayed horizontally, which is much easier than tilting. It is recommended to install concrete or composite products on a concrete pad. Plastic on sandy.
How to care for stormwater
If it concerns a closed-type system, then you just need to periodically clean the storm water inlet from debris and sand. Usually the underground part is littered very rarely. But if this happened, then the most effective option is hydrodynamic. This is the supply of a large amount of water under high pressure.
As for the tray system, the main thing is to periodically clean the grids that cover the trays. This can be done with a regular broom. After the end of the leaf fall, it is recommended to clean the trays themselves. To do this, you will have to remove all the grates and scoop out the debris.
Conclusion on the topic
A storm drain in a private house is a necessary system. You shouldn't skimp on it. Moreover, the costs of its construction are minimal. The installation technology itself is simple, so it's easy to do it yourself. The main thing is to take into account the nuances of selection and installation indicated in this article. Even a slight deviation in the editing process can reduce the quality of the final result.
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Nature never divides people into those who are ready for various phenomena, and those who have not yet been prepared. She simply demonstrates her abilities: summer rains, autumn thunderstorms, spring floods and winter snows. To protect against natural phenomena, a storm sewer was invented, which allows you to divert all precipitation from the site.
Many people mistakenly believe that the storm drain is limited to a few pipes installed at the edge of the building's roof. This is not the case, although gutters are also part of the structure. About how the storm drain is arranged, what it is, and how to make a storm sewer with your own hands, and the conversation will go in this article.
Construction of storm sewers around the house
There is a division into the main components that make up the storm drain and additional ones that ensure maximum efficiency of the system and allow it to fully perform all functions.The basic set of storm sewer elements includes the following parts:
- downpipes with funnels and gutters: these are the names of the part of the structure that collects liquid from the roof of the building;
- point water collectors and storm water inlets;
- pipelines for transporting the collected water to the collector;
- a system of gutters connected to a linear drainage system and transferring the collected water to a pipeline (read also: "").
- special plugs that block the movement of water in the opposite direction;
- siphons that prevent the spread of an unpleasant odor from the sewer collector;
- sand traps.
Before you make a storm drain, you need to stock up on tools and materials. A shovel and a drill will be enough to complete the work. With materials, everything is more complicated, but not by much: bitumen mastic and fasteners for pipes need to be added to the list of the above parts.
The principle of storm drainage in a private house
To create high-quality storm sewers, you need to understand how concrete, plastic, or cast iron storm drains work. The basic principle is as follows: all drains are collected in one channel and sent to a common collector. Each structural element must be connected to a common system.The correct storm drain on the site works like this: first, precipitation is collected from the roof of the building and sent to the drains, then they move by gravity into the storm water inlet, and from there, through pipes, all the water moves to the collector.
Linear drainage is an important part of the design. For its arrangement, it is necessary to install trays at ground level where water will be collected in the maximum volume (read: ""). Each stormwater tray is connected to the system and drains water through it further, but there are also schemes that allow water to be drained not underground through a pipeline, but on the earth's surface.
Installing a point stormwater do it yourself
In order for the stormwater drainage around the house to work correctly, it is necessary to carefully monitor the sequence and quality of actions during its arrangement. Before creating a structure, it is worth performing a stormwater calculation. The first step is to install funnels, which are most often called storm water inlets. The funnels should be installed where the water collected by the drain on the roof of the building drains. To install storm water inlets, it is necessary to prepare small recesses.The stormwater pipeline and funnels must be connected, therefore the latter are equipped with special holes. Through them, with the help of a knee, a pipe is installed, directed underground, and as a result it reaches a level where the soil does not freeze in cold weather. At this depth, the pipe is leveled, for which the elbow is again used, and set in a horizontal position, apart from the slight slope necessary for the fluid to flow by gravity.
From the pipe, water enters the collector, which is a special reservoir that provides temporary storage of storm water (read also: ""). After a while, the collected liquid will be sent to the ground or pumped to the nearest reservoir. The upper part of the collector must be equipped with a manhole with a hatch. The diameter of the well is usually in the range of about one meter. In the absence of an inspection well, access to the internal space of the storm drain and its cleaning will be impossible.
In addition to the point storm drainage, there is a design that works at the expense of trays with grates (for more details: ""). This system is called linear storm sewer. The trays are mounted directly on the ground, and the water that the funnels could not collect gets into them. Structural gutters can have different depths and sizes. Above the gutters, it is worth installing cast iron grids for storm drains to prevent various debris from entering the system. At the junction of the trays and pipelines, it is necessary to install sand traps, which will to a large extent protect the system from the ingress of various debris. In front of the house, you can install special concrete storm drains, which have a large width, which prevent the formation of puddles right near the entrance threshold.
Combination of drainage and storm sewers
There are some guidelines for properly installing drainage and stormwater. One of the recommendations is this: the drainage and stormwater systems should not be connected, which is due to the high load that can occur after heavy rain. Drainage should be installed at a great depth below the level of soil freezing (for more details: ""). The drainage trench must be backfilled with a layer of gravel and crushed stone so that the pipeline can withstand the load exerted by soil and melt water.
When laying drainage, a certain slope must be observed, which is usually about 2%. Drainage drains should be discharged into a ditch or nearby body of water. The storm drain in a private house is usually located on top of the drainage system, that is, the latter is installed first. In any case, both systems must be at a sufficient depth so that their elements do not freeze during the cold season.
There are some tips that will make it easier to install your storm drain. So, the number of earthworks can be reduced by laying the drainage and stormwater systems in one trench (without combining them at the same time). The need for separate laying of systems was mentioned above: this was done to prevent overloading of the structure during a flood.The drainage trench should be deep enough to take into account the depth of soil freezing. In addition, it is important to take into account the thickness of the layer of sand or gravel when arranging a trench. The slope of the drainage trench is usually about 2 degrees in relation to the final system element.
The laying of pipes for storm sewers should also be carried out at a sufficient depth, and this nuance must be taken into account when arranging two systems in one trench. All pipelines that transport water must ultimately be connected to a collector that will provide temporary storage and further drainage of water to the reservoir.
When a storm drain is built around the house, it is imperative to test it. To do this, you need to pour at least a bucket of water into each funnel and watch how the water passes through the system to make sure that it reaches its final destination.
Conclusion
As you can see from everything written above, the installation of storm water around the house is not difficult, and you can create it even in the absence of deep knowledge in the field of construction. It is enough just to precisely follow the algorithm for the construction of the system, to design it with high quality and carefully perform all the work. As a result of all these actions, the storm sewer will ensure the drainage of water from the territory of the site, and the objects located on it will not be threatened with flooding, and it will be much easier for the residents of the house to move around the territory that is not flooded with numerous puddles.
Sometimes the long-awaited rain for a summer resident at the height of the season can become a true natural disaster. Due to a prolonged summer downpour or during a spring flood, a large puddle may form on the site.
To avoid stagnation of water, a collection system is needed, as well as its removal from the territory. But if you take care of the construction of a storm sewer with your own hands, then the costs of its construction will be insignificant.
In our article, we will learn about the principle of atmospheric water drainage, get acquainted with the components of the structure and the features of its maintenance. Adhering to our advice, you will not have any questions about the organization of stormwater. You also have the opportunity to purchase storm sewers and all the necessary components at a discount on the website https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/livnevaya-kanalizatsiya/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation.
How to make a storm drain?
It should be said right away that this is a rather specific design. The water that is discharged through this system contains both large and small debris. Therefore, in the storm sewer, there must be a primary treatment.
The system itself may differ in design, the volume of water that it can accept and the duration of effective operation.
Point water intake of stormwater.
Storm sewage is a system of water intakes, canals, sand traps, collector and inspection wells arranged underground. It is used to collect and drain rainwater from the area.
Installation of channels and installation of storm water inlets.
The device of this type of sewage system will prevent flooding of the site during floods and during heavy rainfall, which is extremely important for an area dominated by clay soils.
Protection of the foundation structure from loosening.
Storm sewage will protect the underground parts of structures from erosion by water, and also exclude subsidence of the foundations as a result of eroded soil underneath.
Components for the assembly of stormwater.
Now for the arrangement of storm sewers, a large number of components are produced, from which you can easily assemble a system of varying degrees of complexity.
Based on the design of the system, there are three types of stormwater:
- Closed. This option is more complicated. Here we are talking about underground pipes and storm water inlets. Ideally, the system should be planned in advance, and the installation should be entrusted to a professional.
- Open. Differs in simple design, convenience in execution, favorable price.
- Mixed. They resort to this type when there is not enough money to implement the second option, or if it is necessary to cover a large area. It is a cross between the first two.
The Type 1 system is below the zero point, which implies extensive excavation and associated financial investment.
Storm sewage type 2 is a system of drainage trays that are built into the covering. Water flows through them to a specially designated place or is drained into the garden.
Important! Surface drainage can perfectly fit into the landscape design of your site, and even become its decoration. This system is used in small rooms.
Basically, such a storm drain is equipped during the development of the site, since it is a simpler freezing option in execution. The system is not buried too deeply - up to 1 meter, but it is not used in work both in winter and early spring.To exclude its freezing, the pipes must be placed below the freezing point. With 3 types of storm sewers, its elements can be found partially both in the soil and on top.
According to experts, the choice of such an expensive option as a closed type storm drain should be justified. This decision is justified by the high requirements for the arrangement of the territory.
It is worth noting that the design of the stormwater is always individual. It is unlikely that you will be able to find plots with identical conditions. They always differ, if not in relief, then in soil properties, layout, and the number of ancillary buildings.
Storm water drains are required both at the enterprise and on private premises. The main differences in their design are that large-scale systems are combined with the discharge of treated water, which are used for the needs of the enterprise.
The main components of a classic sewage system
Levnevka can be linear and point. The first option involves picking up liquid from non-absorbent surfaces such as a paved deck and roof. Subsequently, the effluent is directed to the receiving tanks, and then enters the drainage system.
With a linear method of drainage, water should be drained into trays located near platforms and paths. A simplified version of the stormwater drain consists of the following elements:
- a central pipe laid under a layer of earth, as well as a finishing coating and leading water to the extreme point of the scheme.
- trays - the most important part of the system, which transports excess water to the sand traps (the latter largely determines how effective the drainage will be);
- a storm water inlet located at a low point in the yard or under a pipe to collect liquid;
- distributors and filters - invisible, but no less important components.
All elements of the system are equally important. If one of them breaks down, the efficiency of the entire structure decreases.
Storm water inlet of point type.
Point storm water inlets are used to receive atmospheric precipitation at one point. They are simpler and cheaper to install, but require underground pipes to drain the water down the drain.
Connection to the drainage system.
Point storm water inlets are located so that they receive water that is collected from the roof of the drainage system. At such points, a stormwater drain is sometimes connected to a drain.
Point sewerage device.
The drainage of rainwater, which was collected by the point sewage system, is carried out through a pipeline laid in the ground. That, the priorities of the ordinary installation of storm water inlets are minimized.
Paving the square with storm water.
The disadvantages of a chiseled storm drain are the possibility of soil subsidence with a change in the slope of the pipeline, the difficulty of determining a leak when it appears and the need to protect pipes by placing an equipped site.
Types of storm water inlets for sewerage
The main purpose of the storm water inlet is to collect water coming from the courtyard cover and pipes. Such an element is the first to receive the volume of water that comes from the drainpipes. When choosing a storm water inlet, it is guided by data such as the average amount of precipitation, its intensity, area and relief occupied by storm sewers.
Stormwater drain with a linear water intake.
The technology of stormwater devices depends on the type of water intake device that was chosen for its construction.
System with point rainwater receivers.
Such a system consists of pipes laid in the ground.
Installation of storm sewer trays.
Storm sewage with water intakes is a network of canals closed with a special grating made of plastic, steel alloy or cast iron, depending on the required bearing capacity.
Special protective and decorative grille.
Both linear and point water intakes are covered with special protective and decorative grilles. They are required for the convenience and safety of moving around the site, as well as protecting the system from clogging with branches, foliage and dust.
You can buy a plastic or cast iron gully. The former are best used at high loads, while the latter are attractive for their low weight, moderate cost and ease of installation. A more budgetary option is to make a stormwater well for storm water in your dacha with your own hands from bricks.
The walls of the pit are finished with bricks, leaving holes for the tube, after which they are plastered from the inside. Ideally, leave a gap between the cover and the soil wall and fill it with concrete. In this case, the bottom of the stormwater inlet must be concreted.
Important! Not a single storm sewer can do without a storm water inlet. It preserves both the structure of the building's foundation and the covering around it. If you decide to save on its installation, then water falling on the foundation will lead to cracks and shrinkage on the walls of the building.
This important element is made from concrete rings. Then you can buy a bottom ring with a finished bottom, and you don't have to fill the slab. Sometimes factory storm water inlets are already sold with a siphon, basket and decorative grill.
Storm water inlets made of composite materials or plastic, which are used in most cases for private construction, are produced in the form of a fore cube, each side of which is 30-40 cm. There are adapters on the bottom and on all sides of the product for tapping pipes.
Important! The grids for storm water inlets may have a different quantity, and they may differ in price. It is always necessary to make a start from the expected loads on them during operation.
To prevent the pipes from clogging up with debris falling through the grid cells, it is necessary to equip the storm water inlets with baskets. When they are full, they are cleaned and taken out, after which they are returned to their place.
The design of the factory storm water inlet has partitions that divide its internal space into compartments, thereby forming a water seal. As a result, the unpleasant odor does not penetrate to the outside.
The efficiency of a point rainwater inlet depends not only on the volume, but also on the installation site itself. It should be located under a drain or where moisture often collects. If it is located under the pipe, then the jets must fall strictly into the center of the grate, otherwise part of the water will fall on the yard covering or the foundation in the form of splashes.
What is the task of grit traps?
Melt and rainwater in any case contains a certain percentage of insoluble particles. If you do not use sand traps, dirt will settle in the sewer, and it will no longer cope with its tasks in full. Note that flushing the system is expensive.
A sand trap is a chamber that is installed behind point receivers in places where liquid is discharged into underground pipes. It is designed in such a way that water, falling on it, slows down.
As a result, under the influence of the pulling force, the suspended particles sink to the bottom, and the liquid released from them leaves through a special hole. A sand trap in its shape is a vertical chamber or traps with a large number of chambers placed horizontally.
Sand trap built into the storm water inlet.
Point storm water inlets are equipped with water filtration and sand retention devices. In fact, this system does not require additional sand trapping components.
Sand trap in combined systems.
In combined systems, sand traps are installed in linear sections and before discharge to the absorber / collector.
Sand trap for public stormwater.
The volume and dimensions of the sand trap depend on the amount of water collected, as well as the class of the storm sewer.
Household system trap device.
Regardless of the size, all types of sand catchers are equipped with sand collection devices that allow you to empty the device in an affordable and easy way.
Drainage channels: what are they?
If the blind area around the building has already been made, but there is no drain, the only way out of the situation is to use a drainage gutter, which is called linear storm water inlets. Channels made of plastic or concrete are laid outside the blind area parallel to the overhangs of the cover and paths with a slight slope.
The drainage linear channels receive water from both roof gutters and from the yard covered with slabs or asphalt. Such a sewage system is capable of covering much more objects than a point one. When buying ready-made trays, you need to pay attention to such important characteristics as the limits of mechanical strength and the class of permissible load.
Important! At first glance, the tray is a simple product, but if you make a wrong calculation, then the system will not be able to work fully. It is necessary to take into account the type of coverage, and the throughput of the stormwater and the level of pollution of the discharged water.
The weakest products are labeled A15. It means that their use is only permitted with a maximum permissible load of up to 1.5 tons. They are installed around the entire perimeter of the house, pedestrian and bicycle areas. B125 class trays can handle loads up to 12.5 tons without compromising their integrity. You don't have to worry about them dropping under the weight of the car, as they are designed to be installed in the garage area.
As for private construction, you should not buy powerful concrete gutters, plastic trays are suitable here. They have strength class A, B, C. Polypropylene or polyethylene is used as a material for their manufacture.
An important indicator when choosing trays is the hydraulic section, which is designated by the abbreviation DN. The main thing is that it corresponds to the diameter of the pipes that are led to these components. For plastic gutters, the DN value varies from 70 to 300.
The standard tray is 1 meter long. The products are equipped with a locking system, with the help of which the gutters can be lined up, made branches or connected to pipes. A rational choice for a private house or summer cottage - models from DN100 to DN200.
Trays with different capacity.
Manufacturers of kits for stormwater drainage systems offer a wide selection of trays that differ in throughput and used material.
Storm drainage device made of steel parts.
For the construction of areas with a pedestrian load, the components of the storm sewer are made of galvanized steel. It may not be the most durable option, but it attracts with the simplicity of the structure.
Concrete gutters.
Polymer sand and concrete products can last at least fifty years. They can easily withstand transport loads, including the weight of cargo units. But due to the need to use special equipment in stacking due to the large weight of trays, they are not so often used in the private sector.
A practical plastic option.
Trays made of special frost-resistant polypropylene are actively in demand in landscaping sites. They do not lose strength and do not deform even at temperatures of -40 +65 degrees. Perfect for self-development of the territory.
Features of the choice of pipes
According to SNiP for storm sewers, pipes made of asbestos, metal or plastic can be used. Usually, for a summer residence or a private house, the choice is made on plastic pipes. They are decorative, lightweight, do not corrode, their installation is extremely simple, but the mechanical strength of plastic, in comparison with metal, is relatively low.
After choosing the material, you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes.
The initial value is the largest volume of melt and rainwater discharged. This parameter is determined by the following formula:
Q = q20 × F × Ψ
Here: Q- the required volume ‚ q20- coefficient ‚showing the intensity of precipitation over 20 seconds. (liters per second per 1 ha). F- the area of the courtyard in hectares, if you have a pitched roof, the area is calculated along the horizontal plane. Ψ - absorption coefficient.
Different surfaces have their own absorption coefficient. To perform independent calculations, you can take its values from the table.
Starting from the calculated value and using the Lukin table, they find not only the slope and diameter of the system.
Most often, home storm sewers are equipped with pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. From this table you can take the optimal slope of the drains.
Correctly choosing the diameter of the storm drain will cope with the task even during the period of heavy rainfall. If flows from several troughs enter the tube, then all of them are summed up. Experts for gutters with a diameter of 110 mm and pipes with the same diameter, as a rule, apply a slope of 20 mm / rm.
In the event that the pipe is connected to a stormwater inlet, the slope is slightly increased in order to exclude stagnation of liquid, but when entering the trash box, the slope value is reduced. This slows down the flow of water, and suspended particles in large quantities settle to the bottom.
Water in a sewer of this type drains by gravity, which is due to the created slope of the drainage pipe. There are no pressure pumps here, so it is not necessary to hire a team of specialists in a suburban courtyard or in a dacha to arrange a storm drain. The whole range of works can be done independently.
Where is a collector and a well needed?
As in any system that consists of underground pipes, the stormwater must have an element such as a well.
Its installation is advisable under the following circumstances:
- if two or more streams converge;
- when it is necessary to radically change the height, slope or direction of the pipeline;
- if necessary, transition to a larger pipe diameter.
Wells are also used at established intervals of straight sections of the system. In the event that the diameter of the well is not more than 150 cm, then the next one is at a distance of 30 to 35 m.With a diameter of 200 mm, the distance increases - from 45 to 50 m, and if the diameter is 0.5 m, then the interval increases even more - up to 70-75 m.
The diameter of the well does not exceed 1 m. The deeper the well is, the larger its diameter will be.
Today, some owners still lay out wells from reinforced concrete rings or bricks in the old fashioned way. Others prefer a more advanced material - fiberglass or plastic. By design, wells are solid and collapsible.
In shape, they are made in the form of a cylinder with an opening at the top and a sealed bottom. To connect pipes, branch pipes are used. Several assembled storm water inlets are also used as wells.
All fluid flows go into the collector after they are combined into a single whole. For this element, the choice of material is individual and depends on the capabilities and preferences of the owner.
To redirect the collected water into the gutter or for ground treatment, another element is included in the system - a collector. Sometimes a large plastic well is used as it. It is converted into a storage device by tightly closing the outlet pipes. In order to use water, a special submersible pump is used.
Large section pipes are also used under the collector - plastic or reinforced concrete with all pipelines supplied to them. Also on the construction market you can buy a ready-made container for underground use. There are multi-chamber tanks where melt and rainwater are cleaned according to exactly the same principle as in septic tanks.
Collector well designed to redirect water.
If the site does not have conditions for disposal of water into the ground, then storm water is redirected to a sewer or a public system outside the site.
Absorption well, consisting of perforated rings.
If the size and conditions of the site allow, the collected rainwater is discharged into an absorbing well. When arranging a well in sandy loam soils, the walls are assembled from special perforated rings, which increases the outflow rate.
Inexpensive absorption well option.
A filter well made from old tires is a great option that is almost free. At the same time, he copes well with his task.
Discharge of rainwater into a ditch.
It is much easier to collect and divert rainwater into a gutter that does not need significant post-treatment.
How to install a storm sewer?
The stormwater drain is installed according to the same principle as an ordinary sewage system. In any case, the design of the stormwater system is preceded by the calculation and selection of the necessary materials. Before entering the pipes, water collects on the roof of the house, so construction must start from the top of the building.
To install gutters on the roof, you need to place the lower and upper points, between which the line is stretched. On such a route, gutters are installed, taking into account the slope. The direction for their installation depends on the location of the gutter pipes.
To fix pipes and gutters, brackets are installed, securing them with self-tapping screws. In order for the liquid to enter the drain, funnels are required at the lower points. Collecting pipes and trays, a sealant is applied to the joints. In some cases, there are special factory seals on the edges of the parts, then when they are joined, a reliable connection will be obtained.
The water collected in the gutters from the roof flows through vertical gutters into the storm sewer. The complex of works on the arrangement of storm sewers, regardless of their complexity, includes the following stages:
- Trenching technique or by hand.
For the device of such a sewage system, a trench must be developed. The soil is dug by hand, and the asphalt can be destroyed with ordinary scrap or special equipment.
- Laying concrete-sand mortar at the bottom of the trench.
Fill the bottom of the trench with mobile concrete to the depth of the tray so that the shelves of the tray are flush with the surface. Make a slope of the trench 2-3 cm by 1 m. The slope should be directed towards the collection well.
- Assembling the stormwater tray.
Having beaten off the stormwater lines with a string stretched between the pegs, we assemble a system from trays with a special protective and decorative lattice. Channels must be leveled according to the design slope rating before the concrete starts to set.
- Installation and connection of sand traps.
In the places indicated in the project, sand traps must be installed, then connected to the channels laid in the trench.
- Formwork construction and further concrete pouring.
Build plank formwork along the side of the trench and pour mortar between it and the trench placed in the trench.
- Aligning the system when pouring.
When filling the free space with concrete, level the poured massif. At the same time, we check the slope, and, if necessary, correct the position of the trays.
- Paving the site with the surface of your choice.
After a technological break, dismantle the formwork, level the site with gravel and sand, and then pave it with paving slabs or some other selected coating.
Point drainage of melt and rain water
The first stage is the marking of the pipeline, which consists of receivers, channels and channels. Pegs are driven in at the points of location of all components. For a complete picture, you need to lay a cord between the pegs.
The next stage is digging a trench, as well as small depressions for storm water inlets. At the bottom, you need to install a sand pillow.
If there is a threat of root sprouting in the places where the pipeline is laid, the bottom should be covered with geotextiles. The installation itself begins with the installation of collectors, wells. The next small items in turn are sand traps, storm water inlets and trays. All this is combined with pipes of the required diameter under the recommended SNiP slope or a selected indicator from the table. There should be no sagging when laying the pipeline.
Now you need to test the assembled structure. Water must be spilled on each area in order to assess the tightness of the joints. In this case, the amount of inlet and outlet water should be approximately the same. At this point, you may find sagging (if the difference in inlet and outlet fluid volumes is different).
In the event that testing does not reveal any problems, the system must be backfilled with soil and a sand-cement layer. In some cases, some details of the stormwater are combined with the drainage system. In this case, the pipes of the first should be located on top of the second pipeline, but they can come to one collector.
The combination of storm sewers with ordinary household ones should not be allowed. Otherwise, it can overload the second and provoke many negative consequences.
Let us consider, for example, the construction of a storm sewer with point water intakes. It was built from simple sewer pipes. The reason for this is stagnation of water on the surface, which is formed due to the absence of infiltration into the ground, associated with the clay structure of the soil.
- Gutter device without storm sewer.
The arrangement of the drainage system at the site has caused the need for a storm drain. The water collected by the drain was discharged to the ground and was not absorbed into the ground for a long time.
- Development of a trench for a storm sewer.
We dig trenches at the corners of the roof and downpipes, which should be perpendicular to the foundation, so as not to develop a wide development, and also to reduce the amount of land work.
- Trench construction around the entire perimeter of the house.
At a distance of about 1 meter from the walls of the building, we dig a trench - it should be located along the walls. The main pipes with a diameter of 160 mm will be laid in it, to which we will attach the outlets from the drain, assembled from sewage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm.
- Laying sewer pipes for bedding.
To make a slope towards the flow of collected water, you need to fill the bottom of the trench with sand and tamp it with the necessary slope. On the main sections, you will get 3 slopes per 1 meter, and on the branch sections, approximately 10 cm.
- Installing a plug on a pipe.
Install temporary plugs on the pipes located vertically, which in the future we will connect to the downpipes. In this way, you can protect the system from sand entering during work.
- Backfilling of short trenches with branches.
We fill up a trench with a storm sewer with sewer sand. You should not use "native" soil, as it is clayey. This will partially create conditions for the rapid melting of snow during melting.
- Laying of main pipes with the required slope.
It is necessary to lay the main pipes so that a slope is formed in the direction of the movement of water towards unloading. As a result, all trunk sections should be inclined. According to the rules on turns, it is necessary to put special rotary wells for cleaning, but in this example they were not used.
- Corner connection of a special branch pipe.
If you cannot connect the drainage drainage section at a right angle, connect it at a sharp point, but keep in mind that the angle should be directed towards the water drain.
When the lines are laid with the correct slope, bends will be connected to them and the tightness of all connections is observed (tightness is not needed to protect the soil from rainwater, but to prevent sand from entering the system), you can connect the storm sewer to the pipe, which is discharged into the absorbing well :
- Changing the slope by pouring sand under the pipes.
Check the slope of the unfilled sections of the trench with sand. If necessary, we correct the slope, for which we pour sand under the pipes and carefully tamp them.
- Assembling the assembly for connection to the discharge pipe.
To the pipe that receives water from all sections, you need to connect 2 main pipes and 1 corner outlet from the corner of the roof. Connect pipes in series with elbow fittings.
Storm drainage prevention
Having made a storm sewer with your own hands, do not forget that it requires constant care. Prevention includes cleaning point stormwater inlets and trays from debris that has settled in them.
If you neglect this procedure, the system will crash. The optimal solution is to use the system all year round.
Attention! Self-regulating cable can heat a large area. Its design is based on a semiconductor matrix, which is located between two copper conductors. This cable will prevent any pipes from freezing when the temperature drops.
In winter, thaws occur, during which water from the drainage system enters the pipes and canals. It then moves into the storm sewer, freezes there and turns into ice.
To exclude the formation of ice plugs in the storm sewer, the self-regulating cable is inserted into the storm water inlets located under the drainpipes. So in the heated system there will be no ice jams, and when they form, you can easily get rid of them.
conclusions
Despite the fact that the storm sewer is a complex engineering system, its creation will be within the power of even an inexperienced person in construction. Just follow all the step by step steps and your storm sewer will serve you for years.
Do not forget to leave comments in the block below. Be sure to share your experience with stormwater drainage. Share your impressions and ask questions!Rains and melted snow cause enormous damage to the foundation of the house and the site itself. An excess of moisture is formed, which is bad for the paved paths of the site.
The puddles do not look aesthetically pleasing, and it is unpleasant to step into it. To minimize this problem, a storm sewer is installed in a private house.
It can be done during construction or equipped after.
Scheme
The first thing that needs to be done is a water drainage scheme.
Important
Since water is discharged by gravity, the sewerage plan is drawn up taking into account the highest and lowest points of the site. A slope is made to the bottom point, in it water is discharged into a reservoir or storage tank.
When creating a plan, it should be borne in mind that water drainage can be external and underground.
The external drainage system consists of trays, gratings, sand traps.
Pipes (drains) are buried in the ground, which transport excess liquid from drainpipes and drainage wells.
Installing a storm sewer with your own hands is not difficult.
Materials (edit)
- Drainage trays
- Point storm water inlets
- Roofing gutters
- Sand traps
- Lattice
- Sand
- Crushed stone
- Inspection wells
- Sealant
- Cement
- Plugs
- Line bend adapters
- Brackets
For the laying of storm sewers, plastic, cast iron, and metal products are used.
Cast iron material is very strong and durable, but it is not suitable for arranging stormwater in a country house, it is very heavy.
Metal drainage channels are lighter, coated with anti-corrosion coating, good strength.
I am the leader in the market of plastic products. The material is lightweight, durable, resistant to corrosion and chemicals and is easy to install by yourself.
The trays are available in three forms:
- U-shaped
- U-shaped
- Slotted
U-shaped drainage trays are most often used for suburban areas.
Slotted ones are good for installing on a sidewalk or walkway. They do not have a lattice; between the tiles or along the edge of the asphalt a narrow slot will be visible, into which all the water that gets on the surface flows down.
U-shaped trays differ only in shape. The presence of corners in the drainage system is not always a good thing.
Installation of gutters
Drains are pipes and gutters that are installed on the roof canopy and at the corners of the building to drain precipitation.
After the plan is ready and all the required materials have been purchased, you can proceed with the installation.
Do it yourself rainstorm
Installation
- The roof gutters are installed on the roof. With the help of special brackets.
Please note that the tray must go under the roof by only 1/3, otherwise water from the roof will not get into it. - After installing the roofing trays, the downpipes are installed. There will be 2 or more of them for you to decide. The pipes are fixed to the wall with clamps.
For your information. Downpipes can be connected with or without a gutter.
Having finished with the drainage main on the house, point storm water inlets should be installed.
A pit is dug under the drainpipe, a little larger than the stormwater inlet, a trench with pipes is laid from each stormwater inlet.
The first storm water inlet is installed at the highest point of the site, the rest are below. The slope of the pipes is made from the first to the next. Thus, gravity is organized.
For better fixation, the stormwater inlet is installed on a concrete solution or a cushion of rubble and sand.
Trenches for pipes are filled with gravel and sand.
Important! The receiver grille should be 0.5 cm below the coverage level.
After the pipes are connected to the water receiver, it is covered with a grate.
For your information. Point storm water inlets are used not only to drain water from the roof, but also as an independent element. It is installed in a car park or playground at the lowest point.
Water drainage
It is carried out along the drains, which have a connection to the general storm sewer:
- In the overwhelming majority, one common pipe is created, which goes to the inspection well, such a line reduces the number of turns and pipes, which is very important, since the system must be cleaned periodically. From the well, the pipe goes to a reservoir or storage.
- Inspection () well. It is installed at the intersection of pipes. It is a hollow tube with a bottom and a hatch. Having stepped back from the bottom, holes are made for the drains. The connection is made using rubber gaskets and sealant. The well itself is mounted on a concrete screed or cushion of sand and crushed stone bonds.
- From the drainage well, the pipe goes to the reservoir, reservoir or drainage field. The accumulator collects all the liquid, produces its sludge, where debris settles, after that the water can be used for irrigation or dumped into a nearby reservoir, if there is none, then drainage fields are created that drain water into the ground.
- External storm sewage can be installed in two ways.
The storm water drain is part of the sewer drainage system or acts as an independent structure.
In the first version, the water is drained into the laid pipes. Which implies making holes and connections to the system. Installation is more complicated. It doesn't matter what type of drain you choose. The highway itself is laid according to the same scheme.
All trays are stacked at a slope, like pipes. To mount the trays, you will need to organize a trench larger than the gutter.
Laying starts from the highest point
The trays are connected to each other, the seams are processed.
The gutters can be with or without a grid. The grill protects against debris, injury and serves as a decorative function.
It is advisable to install drainage trays with cement mortar in order to avoid squeezing them out in the cold season and leaching with a large amount of precipitation.
If the products for drainage are made of plastic, then after filling with the solution, you should immediately install the grate to stop the distortions.
A blank cover is installed on the first tray. To the last trash box.
In the case of drainage into drain pipes, sand traps are installed at each drain.
Important. The grid of the tray should be 0.5 cm below the cover.
Water from the surface storm water is discharged into a reservoir or storage.
In the case when the surface outlet is connected to the hidden one, the arrangement of the outlet is not required; a plug is placed on the last tray.
Installation rules
For high-quality installation and a long service life of the drainage system, several rules should be followed:
- All pipes and trays are laid at a slope, from the highest point of the site to the lowest.
- One inspection well is installed for every 30 meters of the pipeline
- Minimize the number of system turns.
- Perform regular cleaning of storm water inlets and trays.
- Remember to install sand traps and plugs.
- All joints must be sealed.
Following all these rules, it will not be difficult to establish a functioning water drainage system.