Growing cucumbers in open ground - varieties, seeds, care. Planting cucumbers in open ground and proper care for them Rules for planting cucumbers with seeds in open ground

It is impossible to imagine a suburban area without at least one garden of cucumbers. this fragrant and delicious vegetable all summer residents love and are happy to consume both fresh and canned. in my garden, I annually set aside the best place for this crop ...

When I started working on an abandoned summer cottage, where nothing but wheatgrass had grown before, I had to face great difficulties. In the early years, my attempts to grow cucumbers, the seeds of which I sowed immediately in the garden, ended in failure. And all because cucumber seeds, as it turned out, are a real delicacy for ants, which at that time were innumerable in my garden.

I re-sowed them again and again, but only single, accidentally surviving specimens germinated and sprouted, naturally, the harvest was scanty, and besides, the beginning of fruiting was significantly delayed.

Therefore, I decided to sow cucumbers for seedlings at home, and already grown seedlings - to transport the executioner and plant them in the garden. Later, when I completely removed the wheatgrass in my garden, and also sowed all the free corners of the summer cottage with calendula and marigolds, I managed to get rid of the ants and return to the reckless method. However, so far, part of my plantings is occupied by plants that I grow through seedlings.

After all, this method, despite the fact that it is more laborious and troublesome, allows you to get the first greens about a month earlier. And after the acquisition polycarbonate greenhouse cucumbers on our table began to appear in mid-May.

It is worth considering that the timing of planting cucumbers for each region will vary significantly.
The main thing is that there is no need to rush to sow this vegetable for seedlings, as it grows very quickly and often stretches. Subsequently, this may not lead to an increase in yield, but, on the contrary, to its loss. After all, from weak seedlings, healthy bushes that can normally bear fruit are unlikely to form. Young plants are ready for transplanting already 3-4 weeks after germination, that is, in the phase of 2-4 true leaves,

Planting dates for cucumbers

In our region, weather conditions allow planting cucumbers in a greenhouse in the last decade of April, and in open ground in the first decade of May. Accordingly, I begin to sow greenhouse cucumbers for seedlings at the end of March, and those that I will later transplant into open ground at the beginning of April. Additionally, on the May holidays, I prepare a separate garden bed, on which I plant with germinated seeds. This approach allows you to stretch the fruiting period of the vegetable, so beloved by all members of our family. First, we feast on crisp greens from the greenhouse, then the bushes in the open field, grown through seedlings, begin to bear fruit, and those sown with seeds pick up the baton very last.

seedling method

An indisputable advantage seedling method is the acceleration of the onset of fruiting and the ability to obtain fruits in the most early dates. After all, after the winter cold, everyone is looking forward to the first fresh vegetables on your desk. In addition, this method allows you to extend the harvest period, and in the northern regions of our country it will serve as a guarantee of obtaining a guaranteed harvest. Of the shortcomings, I, perhaps, will name only one - the extra spring chores, which summer residents already have a lot of during this period. Indeed, in order to obtain good seedlings, you will have to allocate additional space on the windowsill and make some efforts to create a microclimate favorable for them.

open ground

If tomatoes, bell peppers and eggplants in our climate zone it is necessary to sow seedlings for seedlings, then cucumbers can bear fruit quite tolerably by direct sowing into the ground.

But the harvest in this case will be later, besides, the cucumber bushes give it away quite quickly, and then rapidly begin to turn yellow and dry out. Therefore, to extend the fruiting period, it makes sense to sow cucumbers at different times with an interval of 2 to 3 weeks.

But such a technique is suitable only for those gardeners who, in dry summer weather, have the opportunity to constantly moisten the soil in the area where this crop is sown. However, it is worth noting that when favorable conditions seedlings in the open field appear quickly, and the plants themselves subsequently turn out to be more viable and adapted to the conditions environment. Even the strongest cucumber seedlings experience stress after transplantation, and it takes a certain time for it to take root in a new place and start growing again.

Selection of cucumber seeds

I am careful about the choice of seeds and never use freshly harvested ones, since in this case few female flowers will form on the plants, the number of which determines the size of the future crop. The ideal option I consider the use for planting two-three-year-old seeds.

Therefore, when buying planting material, I always look at the expiration date. Manufacturers usually indicate on the bag not the date of packaging, but the expiration date. Moreover, there are certain standards, taking into account which seeds packaged in single-layer paper bags must be sold within two years, and those stored in two-layer bags of foil materials - within three years. But since cucumber seeds remain viable for 8-10 years, I often purchase planting material with an expiration date: this is just what I need.

Expert advice

Now in garden stores there is a large assortment of varieties and hybrids, and everyone can choose cucumbers to their liking, depending on the needs and growing conditions. I plant both fairly new hybrids and old, well-established varieties. It is worth noting that I never plant bee-pollinated varieties in the greenhouse, but use parthenocarpic and self-pollinated varieties.All types of plants are suitable for planting in open ground.

Processing cucumber seeds before planting

I always carry out pre-sowing treatment of seeds, regardless of where they will be planted, at home in cups or in a summer cottage. The only exceptions are those that are sold already prepared: they are usually painted and do not require additional manipulations from the gardener. First of all, I select intact full-weight seeds, which I have long learned to determine with the naked eye. For beginner summer residents, for these purposes, I can recommend using a 3% saline solution (30 g of table salt per 1 liter of water), into which the seeds are poured and mixed thoroughly. After 7-10 minutes, high-quality planting material will settle to the bottom of the tank.

Specimens that have surfaced must be discarded: they are unsuitable for landing. After calibration, the seeds are placed in a thermos filled with hot water (+45 ... + 50 "C), and kept under a closed lid for about half an hour. Such warming contributes to faster and more friendly germination and further development.

Next, I disinfect the seeds for 20-30 minutes in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 1 liter of water), after which I wash them under running water. At the last stage, I prepare a nutrient solution based on the Energen growth stimulator and Biohumus organo-mineral fertilizer (1 capsule and 4.5 ml, respectively, in 600 ml of water). I moisten a piece of cotton fabric or gauze in it, spread the planting material on it, put it on a saucer, which I immerse in a plastic bag. I leave the seeds in a warm place until pecking - in this solution it happens much faster.

Expert advice

Since the length of daylight hours in spring is still insufficient for the normal development of shoots, it is imperative that I provide seedlings of cucumbers with additional illumination in the morning and evening hours, and in cloudy weather - throughout the day. For this purpose I use a drawing lamp. At its base there is a special fastener that allows you to easily fix it on the windowsill. In addition, thanks to the long stem, the height of the backlight can be easily adjusted as the seedlings grow.

Stages of sowing cucumbers

Since cucumbers are very painful to transplant and slightest damage root system, when growing seedlings I immediately use separate containers. For this purpose, four-hundred-gram plastic jars of sour cream, which I specially collect, are excellent. I make several holes in the bottom of each container to drain excess liquid.

I fill them with fertile soil only half. To do this, I use garden soil and rotted compost, taken in equal proportions and thoroughly mixed with wood ash (1 cup per 10 liters of substrate).

When the seeds begin to hatch, I immediately hatch them into cups, in which I first spill the soil with warm water. You should not delay the planting process, as fragile roots outgrow very quickly and can easily break when disembarking. I spread one seed into each container, sprinkle them with a layer of soil 1-2 cm, which I slightly moisten from above with a spray gun. I cover each cup with cling film and leave it in a warm place (+ 27 ... + 30 ° С). As soon as the seedlings appear, I rearrange the container on the lightest window sill, and remove the film from the cups.

The temperature in the room now needs to be maintained at +20 ... +22°C during the daytime, and at night it must not be allowed to drop below + 15°C.

Tender cucumber shoots need regular but moderate watering. Neither drying out nor waterlogging of the earthy coma should be allowed - this equally negatively affects their development.

Also, this culture does not tolerate drafts.

Top dressing cucumbers

During the growth period of the seedlings, I fertilize twice with the Biohumus complex fertilizer, which I used to soak the seeds.

But this time I prepare the nutrient solution at the rate of 5 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water. I carry out the first dressing in the cotyledon phase, and the second - a week before transplanting the plants into the ground or greenhouse. Approximately 10 days before my pets move to the dacha, I begin to take them out to the glazed loggia for hardening. As the seedlings grow, I gradually pour fertile soil into cups, filling the stem with cotyledon leaves. This encourages additional root development and my seedlings always look stocky and healthy by the time they are transplanted.

Landing details.

I don’t plant cucumbers in one place for two years in a row, I certainly observe crop rotation, I try to plant this crop after cabbage, peas, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes or beets. I transplant the seedlings into a pre-prepared bed, the soil on which I carefully dig up with the addition of humus from the racist 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Then I level the site and make holes at a distance of 40 -50 cm from each other for greenhouse plants and 30 -36 cm for ground cucumbers.

Then I plant young plants by transshipment, trying to prevent damage to the root system. Seedlings are deepened by cotyledon leaves and watered with warm water. I always transplant in cloudy weather or in the evening. If I sow seeds on the bed, then I first make the holes deeper, add my home fertilizer to them, sprinkle with earth, water, and spread the seeds on top, deepening them into the soil by 1 - 2 cm.

I hope my experience will be useful for summer residents, and everyone will choose the best way to plant for themselves. And those who decide to grow cucumbers through seedlings and use my advice will surely be satisfied with the result.

A simple trick

I have one simple trick that significantly increases the yield and quality of greens. For the past few years, when planting, I have been adding potato peelings and the remains of bakery products to the wells, which I collect and dry during the winter. When planting seedlings, I pour a handful of such fertilizer into the planting holes, mix it with the soil and pour it with plenty of water.

WHAT SHOULD BE THE SOIL FOR CUCUMBERS

If the garden for cucumbers is prepared properly, in accordance with all the rules, then the gardener will not have much trouble growing this crop - the plants will be pleased with the harvest, and they will not require extra feeding, and they will not make you worry about your health once again.

Cucumbers will like a bed on which cabbage (white or cauliflower), peas or beans grew; you can plant them after tomatoes. But so that their predecessors in the garden were "relatives" - representatives of the pumpkin family (zucchini, pumpkin, squash) - they do not like cucumbers. Based on knowledge about cucumber likes and dislikes, we will prepare the ground for planting.

WHAT SOIL CUCUMBERS LOVE:

• fertile, rich in organic matter;
• with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• loose, breathable;
• moisture-intensive;
• warm;
• cleared of weeds.

DO NOT LIKE:

• dense;
• sour;
• poor;
• cold.

Possible options

Depending on the conditions and your own capabilities, you can choose one of two main ways: to improve (enrich, loosen, deoxidize, and so on) the soil in the garden or build a so-called warm bed. There are advantages and disadvantages to both options, so consider both.

Preparing a regular bed for cucumbers

Soil preparation for cucumbers begins long before planting. First of all, you should take care of cleaning from plant residues and roots of weeds. Cucumber does not grow well in weedy areas, so it is better for him to choose cultivated, well-cultivated soils.

In autumn, the bed is filled with fresh manure at the rate of 5-10 kg / m 2 (the norm varies depending on the fertility of the soil) with the addition of 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt. Noli is planned to use rotted manure, compost or humus, they are brought in during spring digging or added directly to the hole during planting. Those who prefer to do without mineral fertilizers use instead wood ash(1 glass per 1 m 2).

Manure can be replaced with vegetable raw materials, such as fallen leaves, grass, etc. In this case, remove the top layer of soil from the garden (it is more convenient to use a fenced one) to a depth of about 15 cm, lay the prepared organic matter and cover it with soil. So that the “filling” does not cake, does not compact, add coarse components to it - branch trimmings, corn stalks, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke. You can additionally shed the plant layer with infusion of chicken manure or mullein, it is better not to get carried away: an excess of organic fertilizers will not bring any benefits.

If the soil is acidic, it must be limed. The best option- add dolomite flour for the previous crop at the rate of 300-500 g/m2 (depending on the level of acidity), but this can also be done with autumn digging. Instead of dolomite flour, lime, chalk or wood ash are also used.

Dense, heavy clay soil must be made loose: add sand, peat, sawdust, humus. Remember that fresh sawdust should not be used, as it increases the acidity of the soil and absorbs nitrogen from it. If there was no rotted raw material at hand, fresh sawdust should be treated with a solution of urea (200 g per 10 liters of water), mixed with wood ash or dolomite flour, cover with plastic wrap for 10-16 days and only then apply to the soil.

If it was not possible to prepare the garden bed in the fall, you will have to do this in the spring, when the earth warms up. Apply organic and mineral fertilizers under the perecoac, for example, one of the proposed nutrient "cocktails" (per 1 m 2):

• 3 kg of humus, 3 kg of peat, 2 kg of old sawdust, 30 - 40 g of superphosphate, 10 - 15 g of potassium salt;
• 5 - 7 kg of semi-rotted manure, 20 g of urea. 20 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate or 150 - 200 g of wood ash;
• 4 - 6 kg of compost or humus, 3 cups of wood ash, 100 g of nitrophoska.

Regardless of the chosen set of fertilizers, they are evenly distributed over the garden bed and embedded in the soil.

Preparing a warm bed for cucumbers

This is an excellent option for regions where spring is cold, with late return frosts. As we remember, the cucumber loves warm soil rich in nutrients - these are the conditions that a warm bed will provide. The heat that is released during the decomposition of organic raw materials allows you to get an early harvest of cucumbers even in adverse climatic conditions.

A warm bed is prepared in the fall to take advantage of all its benefits. True, one should not rush too much: if biofuel is laid too early, it will begin to warm up even before the onset of cold weather and will burn out by spring. But better about everything in order.

ON A NOTE

It is believed that 2/3 of the total amount of fertilizer intended for cucumbers should be applied when preparing the soil for planting. The remaining 1/3 is divided into two halves: one is used when the time comes for sowing or planting seedlings - they are added to the grooves (planting holes); the second half should fall on summer top dressing.

Dig a trench 35 - 50 cm deep and 50 - 60 cm wide. Lay a layer of branches or coarse stems on the bottom - for drainage. Then install the arcs (if a stationary greenhouse is used). But then you can do it differently.

Classic warm garden- this is a trench filled with manure (cow or horse). It is better to lay such biofuel in a trench prepared in the fall. in early spring(usually in March), in extreme cases - in late autumn, after the onset of stable cold weather. Lay manure without compacting. If the raw material has been laid since autumn, it should be loosened with a pitchfork in the spring. If the contents do not “flare up” (that is, they do not begin to warm up), but the entire length of the beds, it is necessary to make several deep holes and pour warm water into them. This stimulates the process.

When the biofuel flares up, sprinkle it with a layer of sawdust or peat (they will absorb the released ammonia), and then lay the loose soil mixture in a layer of 16 - 20 cm and cover the greenhouse with a film. However, immediately after this, it is impossible to sow cucumbers: in the first 10-12 days of "burning" of manure, the soil temperature can rise to +60 ° C and above. When the temperature drops to + 30 ... + 40 ° C and stabilizes, it will be possible to start planting.

However, this technology is not available to all gardeners: it is not possible for someone to get to the site in early spring, it is difficult to get enough fresh manure somewhere. In this case, you can fill the trench with available organic raw materials - fallen leaves, chopped grass (without seeds), tops (only healthy plants), and so on. Lay rotted manure or compost on top and fill with soil.

This structure cannot fully replace a real warm bed: the vegetable “filling” warms up much less than manure, and planting can be started at a later date. However, cucumbers grow well on it and delight in the harvest.

So prepare right soil for cucumbers in different ways, and each gardener will easily select the appropriate option, based on their own preferences and the conditions of their summer cottage.

CUCUMBERS: DISEASES AND PESTS

When I was just beginning to learn gardening science, I often missed the first signs of plant damage and, due to my indiscretion, in some years lost my crop. But over time, a store of knowledge appeared, which now helps me.

Since this culture is fast-growing, I do not use chemicals to protect it. Over the long years of gardening, I have accumulated quite a lot of effective folk methods that help keep cucumbers healthy in any, even the most unfavorable conditions.

On a note

The most common cucumber pests are aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. In addition to the fact that these insects suck the juices from the leaves and stems of plants, greatly weakening them, they are also carriers of viral infections, which are then almost impossible to deal with.

Cucumber pests

Aphids that damage cucumbers can be either winged or wingless and have a gray, green or dimensional color. An individual individual reaches a size of 1.8 - 2 mm. This insect reproduces very quickly, and in just a few days, entire colonies form on the leaves and stems. She is inactive and, having taken a certain place on the shoot, sucks out the juice until it begins to dry out.

It is almost impossible to notice a spider mite with the naked eye, since its size does not exceed 0.6 mm. But on the other hand, its appearance on cucumbers is easy to determine by the presence of a thin cobweb on the leaves and their marble honey agaric. These pests are usually on the inside of the leaves, sucking the juices out of them, as a result of which they quickly begin to dry out.

The whitefly is a flying insect about 2 mm in size with translucent whitish wings. It is not usually found on the back side of the leaves. She is very voracious and continues to suck cucumber juice from plants even when she is full. Excess juice that remains on the stems and leaves after the activity of this pest serves as a favorable environment for the appearance of soot fungus, which further inhibits the shoots.

Ready for battle!

To the new summer season I start preparing in advance and during the autumn-winter period I stock up on those kitchen waste that can be useful in the fight against these harmful gels. To do this, I collect and dry the peel of citrus fruits and onion peel.

When uninvited guests appear in the cucumber plantings, I take a half-liter jar of dry citrus peels, pour 2 liters of water and insist for a day. Then I boil the product on low heat for 16-20 minutes, filter it, bring the broth to 10 liters and spray the plants. If during the winter I gain a lot of orange or tangerine peel, as a preventive measure I sprinkle it under the cucumber bushes and cover it with mowed grass. The crusts, when rotting in the ground, exude an odor that repels these insects.

And the fight against them is no less effective infusion of onion peel. To prepare it, I fill a liter jar of husk with 2 - 3 liters of hot water (+ 40 ... + 50 ° C) and leave it for two days. I filter the resulting paste, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and carry out the treatment from the sprayer. This tool, thanks to great content valuable nutrients, is also an excellent foliar top dressing. With regular use of onion peel infusion during the season, cucumber lashes remain green much longer and delight with a longer fruiting period.

In the fight against pests on cucumber bushes, an infusion of garlic gives an excellent effect. To prepare it, I pass 1 glass of peeled cloves through the press, add the mass to a bucket of water and insist "< под крышкой в течение двух суток. Опрыскивание огурцов этим настоем не только отпугивает нежелательных насекомых, но и служит отличным бактерицидным средством для профилактики и лечения таких распространенных грибковых заболеваний, как powdery mildew, peronosporosis, cladosporiosis, white and root rot, ascochitosis, fusarium and anthracnose.

Painful look

Most often, cucumbers suffer from powdery mildew and downy mildew. The first disease occurs when high humidity air and temperature not higher than +20 °C. It is characterized by the appearance of a powdery coating on the leaves in the form of small spots, which gradually increase and pass to the stems. Damaged parts of plants subsequently begin to dry out and die.

No less dangerous is peronosporosis (downy mildew), which develops in similar weather conditions and is characterized by the appearance of numerous yellow specks that grow rapidly and lead to the death of the damaged part of the plants.

Cladosporiosis (brown olive spotting) manifests itself in the form of small rounded ulcers of a brown or olive hue. The specks later begin to grow, dry out and collapse, damaging the foliage. This disease occurs when sharp drops temperature, as well as in cool rainy weather.

It is quite easy to detect the beginning of infection of cucumbers with white rot, which begins to spread with increased soil and air humidity: small white bodies are formed in various parts of the plants, which look like pieces of cotton wool. If you do not carry out treatment, shoots and fruits can be covered with such a "cotton" coating almost completely.

Root rot can be seen with massive wilting of foliage. If you pull such a bush out of the ground, its root system will be rotten and with a red tint. Cucumbers often begin to suffer from this misfortune due to the indiscretion of summer residents themselves - after watering with cold water in hot weather.

Ascochitosis more often destroys greenhouse plants and primarily occurs on the stems in the form of oblong watery spots. gray color. Later, the spots darken, dry up, and brown exudate begins to stand out from their cracked integumentary membranes. If no action is taken, the disease then spreads to the leaves and fruits.

In the greenhouse on cucumber bushes, you can also find signs of fusarium, which, similarly to ascochitosis, spreads due to excessive planting density, high humidity and a sharp difference in day and night temperatures. Fusarium wilt in most cases manifests itself only during the fruiting period, it significantly reduces its time, as it greatly weakens the plants. The drooping tops of the lashes in the daytime are the first sign of Fusarium. The spores of these fungi first of all settle on the roots, and then move on to the stem and leaves, the edges of which become watery and acquire a pale shade.

Mri watering cucumbers with cold water, as well as with sudden changes in air temperature, anthracnose can develop, which is easy to identify by multiple brown spots on all parts of the plant. Moreover, on the fruits, they look like depressed watery lesions of a brown or pinkish hue. On infected bushes, the quality of even healthy-looking greens deteriorates; they become tasteless by reducing the amount of sugars and organic acids.

All of the above ailments are caused by various fungi, the spores of which multiply rapidly and destroy plants if the necessary measures are not taken in time. These mushrooms belong to different families, but for all of them the acidic environment and treatment with antiseptic agents are equally destructive.

Be carefull!

When cooking folk remedies against diseases I add to each 2-3 tbsp. spoons liquid soap for better adhesion and choose those products that are this moment is at hand. I want to note that the treatments must be carried out regularly 1 time in 5 - 7 days until the condition of the plants improves. Sometimes I experiment and mix different ingredients(in case my cucumbers were affected by both pests and diseases at the same time). For example, I add iodine or brilliant green to the drink of tobacco dust; or I bring the prepared decoction of celandine (3 l) to a volume of 10 l with unusual water, and with an ash solution, which I already prepare at the rate of a half-liter jar of ash per 7 l of water.

Over the past few years, I have become much more vigilant about the health of my country pets. I start spraying from the moment the seedlings appear on the beds or the seedlings are planted in the ground as a preventive measure every 7-10 days, alternating solutions against pests and diseases. With this approach, my cucumbers remain healthy throughout the growing season and annually delight me with a wonderful harvest.

PROVEN RECIPES FOR APHIDS, WHITEFLY AND SPIDER MITE

• Tobacco dust (150-200 g) pour 1-2 liters of hot water and leave for 1-2 days. Then I filter the infusion, bring the volume to 10 liters and spray the plants.
• I fill the bucket 1/3 with the crushed ground part of the marigolds, fill it with water halfway and insist for three days, after which I filter the infusion, dilute it with water in equal proportions and spray it.
• Finely chop 30-40 g of fresh or 10-15 g of dry hot pepper, pour 1 liter of water, put on fire and boil for 20-30 minutes on low heat. I filter the resulting broth, pour it into 9 liters of water and carry out the processing.
• 1/3 of a bucket of potato tops, tomato stepchildren or wormwood grass is poured with warm water to the top and insisted for two days. Strained infusion is used for its intended purpose.
• I grind 0.5 kg of freshly picked celandine grass and pour 3 liters of water, insist for a day, boil for an hour and then filter. I pour the broth into a bucket, top it up with water to the top and spray it.

In addition to garlic infusion, at the first sign of a disease, I use the following solutions for foliar spraying of plants:

• 1 liter of skimmed milk or kefir per 9 liters of water;
• 1 liter of whey per 9 liters of water;
• half-liter jar of wood ash per 10 liters of water (leave for 2 days and strain);
• 100 g of pressed yeast per 10 water;
• 10 ml of iodine per 10 liters of water;
• 10 ml of brilliant green per 10 liters of water;
• Pour 150-200 g of crushed tinder fungus into 1-2 liters of boiling water, wait for it to cool, strain and bring the volume to 10 liters;
• 2 kg of rotten hay or straw pour 0.5 buckets of warm water, leave for 3 days, strain and bring the volume to 10 liters;
• knead a loaf of rye bread and pour 10 liters of water, let it ferment for 3 days, strain, dilute the resulting kvass with water in equal proportions;
• Fill 1/3 of a bucket with chopped herb plantain, nettle, dandelion and coltsfoot, pour water to the top and let it brew for 3-5 days, then strain and use undiluted;
• 1 kg of mullein insist in 10 liters of water for 3 days, strain, dilute half with water;
• 1 kg of freshly harvested horsetail grass pour 3 liters of water, let it brew for a day, then boil, strain and bring the volume to 10 liters.

CUCUMBERS WITHOUT CHEMISTRY

MANY GARDENERS TODAY PREFER TO GROW VEGETABLES IN THE COTTAGE WITHOUT THE USE OF SYNTHETIC MINERAL FERTILIZERS. AND THIS DOES NOT STOP IN THE ONE OF GETTING AN EXCELLENT HARVEST - EVEN FROM SUCH GUTTLERS LIKE CUCUMBERS. THE MAIN THING IS TO CHOOSE THE MENU CORRECTLY

Cucumber loves organic matter, but it cannot be limited to it: in our arsenal there should be different types of dressings in order to satisfy all the plant's needs for useful macro- and microelements.

Ash

The chemical composition of ash varies over a fairly wide range and largely depends on the feedstock that was used to obtain it. But in any ash there are compounds of calcium, potassium, magnesium and sodium, which are necessary for cucumber. Regular application of ash throughout the season will prevent potassium starvation, which leads to the formation of ugly (pear-shaped) greens. In addition, calcium normalizes the water balance and supports the stable growth of cucumber lashes.

The easiest way to use, so to speak, for the lazy: systematically (once a week or less) scatter the sifted ash on moist soil around the plants at the rate of 2 tbsp. spoons on the bush, avoiding falling on the stems. Nutrients from the ash will gradually flow to the roots with each watering.

Liquid ash top dressing, unlike the dry method, allows you to quickly bring food to the addressee. This is especially important during fruiting when potassium intake is increased. The recipes for such solutions are different - their concentration is selected based on specific conditions.

For regular top dressing, you can use the following ash solution: dissolve a glass of ash in 10 liters of water. Apply fertilizer at the rate of 1-2 cups per plant. If a potassium deficiency appears, the proportions can be increased: take a half-liter jar of ash for 10 liters of water, rewind it carefully, let it stand, then feed the cucumbers with the resulting solution at the rate of 1 liter per bush.

You can also cook ash paste: 3 tbsp. spoons per 1 liter of water, mix, leave for a week. The infusion is applied at the rate of 0.5 liters per bush, followed by abundant watering.

Nitrogen sources

If it is better to introduce rotted manure or compost into the soil when planting cucumbers, then fresh manure or bird droppings (chicken, pigeon, quail, and so on) are preferable for top dressing. They are used to prepare solutions of various concentrations. At the same time, it is worth remembering: manure and litter contain a lot of nitrogen, so it is highly undesirable to abuse such dressings. An excess of nitrogen will inevitably lead to abundant growth of greenery, but fruiting can be greatly delayed.

CHICKEN MANURE

In addition to nitrogen, chicken manure contains a large amount of potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. According to these indicators, it is even several times superior to cow dung. However, such a high concentration of nutrients and the presence of uric acid in the litter make it unsafe for plants: such a fertilizer can burn the roots. Even in the form of an infusion, fresh litter cannot be applied under the root - only along the aisles. And be sure to combine this top dressing with abundant watering.

To prepare fertilizer from fresh chicken manure, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:20 and leave for 10 days in the open air. L here rotted litter can be diluted in a higher concentration (1:10 or 1:15) and you need to insist it less, only 2 - 3 days. Ready top dressing in color should be like weakly brewed tea. If the solution is more saturated, you should add water so that the fertilizer you have prepared does not harm the plants. It is especially effective in the phase of the second or third leaf, when cucumbers need nitrogen for growth, as well as at the beginning of flowering, when the beneficial elements contained in the litter stimulate the formation of ovaries.

MANURE

Horse manure is an excellent biofuel for warm cucumber beds. For top dressing, it is more convenient to use cow dung: the nitrogen content in it is relatively low, which means there will be less risk of overdose, which can lead to the accumulation of nitrates in fruits or the active growth of ash mass to the detriment of fruiting.

An infusion is prepared from fresh manure: fill the raw materials with water in a ratio of 1: 1, leave for a week, then dilute in a ratio of 1:10 and apply, like top dressing from chicken manure, between rows, at the rate of 10 liters of infusion per 1 m 7 plantings.

Another way to prepare top dressing: mix slurry with water 1: 4 and ferment in a warm place for 4-7 days. The resulting infusion is again diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4 and used for top dressing.

Weeds to the rescue

An excellent top dressing for cucumbers is obtained from the most common grass. Grind the weeded weeds, put them in any suitable container, fill with water and leave for several days until a characteristic “aroma” appears. The resulting herbal infusion can be safely watered with cucumbers and other vegetable crops, previously diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. The most "delicious" dressings are obtained from nettle and dandelion.

Expert advice

When preparing herbal top dressing is not fill the container to the top, otherwise, during fermentation, the contents will begin to overflow. The fermentation period of such a fertilizer will depend on the temperature: the warmer, the faster it will be ready.

Krapina fertilizer can be prepared with the addition of fresh yeast and brown bread. Fill the container 2/3 with chopped nettles, add leftover bread or crackers, pour water with yeast diluted in it (100 g per bucket of water) and ferment in heat for 3-5 days. Before use, dilute the prepared infusion with water in a ratio of 1:10.

Natural "complex fertilizer" can be prepared as follows: 5-6 kg of crushed leaves and stems of weeds (nettle, plantain, dandelion, coltsfoot), 10 tbsp. spoons of wood ash, put 1 bucket of mullein in a ten-bucket (100l) container, fill with water to the top and mix thoroughly. I (melt for a week.

Products from the kitchen

They sang at the cucumbers, the leaves began to turn yellow prematurely, a solution of baking soda will help (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Cucumbers also respond well to yeast feeding: 100 g of fresh (not dry!) ​​yeast per 10 liters of water. Dissolve the yeast completely, let it brew for half an hour, water at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.

The growth of cucumber lashes is accelerated by milk: it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, I feed it '!' Once every 2 weeks. Instead of milk, you can use whey (2 liters per bucket of water).

How often should you feed?

Everyone knows that cucumber is picky about nutrition. But the degree of this exactingness is understood in different ways, and therefore you can find p personal recommendations regarding the frequency of feeding.

The most radical option is to feed the plants throughout the season, every 10-12 days (or even once a week), alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.

The second option involves only 3-4 top dressings, timed to coincide with the most important stages of plant development: the first - two weeks after planting seedlings, when the plants have already adapted well in a new place; the second - at the beginning of flowering; the third and fourth - at the stage of mass fruiting, when plants actively form greens.

Finally, some gardeners are of the opinion that 1-2 dressings are enough for a cucumber all summer long - at the time of crop formation.

Who is right and which option to choose? This is largely determined by the conditions: if the cucumber bed was generously seasoned with organic matter before planting, the soil on it is fertile, retains moisture and nutrients well, then you should not get carried away with additional top dressing. An excess of nutrition is no less harmful than its deficiency: overfed plants resist disease worse. In addition, excess nitrogen leads to a decrease in yield and the accumulation of nitrates in the fruit.

If the soil is poor or too loose (for example, sandy) and the elements necessary for the plant are quickly washed out during irrigation or rain, you will not see the crop without additional nutrition.

And be sure to watch the plants - they themselves will tell you if they need recharge. The lashes were healthy, the leaves are green, the fruits are developing well - you should not get carried away with fertilizing, even if natural.

WAYS OF STRINGING CUCUMBERS

When I was in school, everything summer holidays I spent with my grandmother in the village. Even as a child, it was a great pleasure for me to take care of garden plants. And the most pleasant occupation for me was harvesting. The only crop that I did not like to harvest from was the cucumber.

Grandmother always grew cucumbers. With this method of planting, the bed took quite large area. Therefore, I never had any particular joy in making my way through dense thickets, covering the surface of the earth with a continuous carpet. Often, she inadvertently stepped on fragile lashes, and on Zelentsy themselves, and then scolded herself for her clumsiness. This vegetable was also grown by my parents. And only I, when I completely took the initiative in processing the summer cottage in my own hands, for the first time tried to tie long cucumber lashes to a support.

The first experiment on the construction of a support for cucumbers, I carried out with the help of side backs from two old armored beds, which had been gathering dust for a long time in the country barn. I dug these metal beds across the beds at a distance of about 1.5 m and pulled several strings of twine between them. I planted cucumbers in two rows and, as the shoots grew, I simply threw the whips on the support. After a while, they densely braided the structure, which, although it turned out to be low, greatly facilitated care. Collecting greens in the cucumber "tunnel" has become much easier. However, what pleased me most of all was that the fruiting period with this method of planting increased significantly in comparison with those plants that previously freely spread along the ground.

But still, the height of this structure turned out to be insufficient: the shoots, as they grew, rose to the support, and then again descended to the ground.

After a while, I built another support. The beds were replaced with strong wooden stakes about 2 m high, which I dug along the edges and in the middle of the beds on the same line. Between them she pulled several horizontal rows of twine at a distance of 30 - 35 cm, to which she tied cucumber lashes during the growth period. The height of such a tapestry turned out to be optimal, and I was very pleased with the result. The only thing was that I later replaced the twine with a strong wire, since it invariably sagged under the weight of shoots hung with fruits.

WITHOUT MULCH IN ANY WAY!

Garter cucumbers during the growing season does not take much time and has long become my usual pastime. This method significantly saves space on the site. It is not difficult to water and feed the plants: now I pour water and nutrient solutions strictly under the root, and I mulch the ground under the plantings with mowed grass. Indeed, on my sandy soil, which dries up instantly in the summer heat, you simply cannot do without mulch. It allows you to retain moisture in the ground much longer. In addition, when rotting, the grass saturates it with organic compounds and additionally nourishes the plants.

Prevention

On the trellis, vertically located shoots are illuminated from all sides by the sun, blown by the breeze and always remain dry after watering, which significantly reduces the risk of developing fungal diseases. For example, when I grew this crop in creeping form, plantings were constantly affected by downy mildew and anthracnose. And this happened because the shoots were in contact with moist soil, the temperature of which always decreased at night.

And if suddenly cool, rainy weather set in in the summer, then the cucumbers were affected by fungal diseases just like lightning, and sometimes I completely lost the crop. Now I have the opportunity to free up a significant amount of time that I used to spend on treating my plantings.

Signs of this or that disease can be found on the bushes only in seasons with extremely unfavorable weather conditions. The trellis also protects them from the cold August dew, which negatively affects the condition of plants creeping along the surface of the soil. Naturally, healthy bushes bear fruit much longer and delight with a generous harvest until autumn.

For bees

With the trellis method of growing bee-pollinated varieties, which I usually plant in open ground, the yield is significantly increased. Indeed, under such conditions, it becomes easier for insects to find and pollinate the maximum number of flowers that are available to them, and do not hide in dense thickets of tangled lashes and leaves. What a pleasure it now gives me to collect fragrant, crisp greens! You no longer have to look for them for a long time: they are all in sight. In addition, I no longer trample the beds, as before, and do not damage the delicate shoots and leaves.

Miracle mesh for cucumbers

Last year, quite by accident, I saw a trellis net in a garden store, specially designed for cultivating long-climbing plants. Already knowing about all the advantages of the vertical method of growing cucumbers, I happily purchased this

product and managed to evaluate its merits in the same season. The height of the mesh was just 2 m, and I was able to easily fix it on the dug-in pipes and pull it along the entire length of the bed.

I really regretted that I didn’t know about this wonderful invention earlier, because now I don’t have to waste time on tying the lashes: I just guide them between cells that have an optimal size of 15x15cm, and they themselves roll towards it with tenacious antennae. Those who at least once tried to grow cucumbers on a trellis are unlikely to be able to refuse this method. After all, having once spent time and effort on the construction of a support, you can significantly reduce the cost of care throughout all subsequent summer seasons.

Garter methods

There are various ways to garter cucumbers, and each summer resident can choose among them the most suitable for himself or turn on ingenuity and invent any other support from the available materials at hand.

For example, my dacha neighbor ties up cucumbers in a very original way. He draws several circles with a diameter of about 1 m on the garden bed. A high wooden stake is driven into the center of each, at the end of which there is a small carnation. Then he digs shallow annular grooves around the stakes and plants cucumbers in them.

When the shoots reach 20 - 30 cm, he ties several pieces of twine to the carnation (depending on the number of plants), the second end of which is fastened to the stems with a free loop. As it grows, it twists the whips around the twine, and subsequently a kind of cucumber "huts" are formed on its bed, attracting the eyes of all passers-by.

Other neighbors similarly wrap cucumber lashes around twine, but use thick beds dug along the edges as a support. wooden bars, on top of which a long rail is nailed. They plant cucumbers in a line and tie twine to a rail above each individual bush. By the way, they are pensioners and live in the country constantly throughout the season. Therefore, if suddenly cold rains begin to fall in the summer, they put a film on the trellis, attaching it with clothespins to the twine, and thus save the plants from excessive moisture. They do the same during the summer heat, shading cucumbers from scorching sun at noon, but instead of a film, lutrasil is used.

The formation of lashes in cucumbers

Growing cucumbers on a trellis, in addition to other pleasant moments, allowed me to try out the principles of forming lashes, which I learned about from special literature. This technique makes it possible not only to restrain the growth of green mass, but also to regulate the process of fruit formation. When I allowed cucumbers to wander freely on the ground, there was no question of any formation: it was simply impossible to keep track of the growth point of each of the tangled shoots.

But with vertical growth, the stems, leaves and ovaries are in sight, which simplifies working with them. It is worth noting that different varieties and hybrids require different approaches to the formation of lashes.

Having mastered all the subtleties of the formation of cucumber bushes, I can say with full confidence that their productivity increases significantly. By pinching certain shoots, you can redirect the forces of the cucumber from actively building up long lashes to setting more fruits.

For example, I annually plant the old varieties ‘Phoenix 640’ and ‘Monastyrsky’ in open ground, and they always delight me with their disease resistance and abundant fruiting. But since mostly male flowers are formed on their main stem, I pinch it in the phase of 5-6 true leaves. In their axils, lateral shoots appear with female-type flowers, which are just the key to the future harvest. I tie them to a support and remove the growth point on each after the 4-5th sheet. In this way, I form highly branched bushes and significantly increase their yield.

Modern varieties and hybrids have a predominantly female type of flowering in all parts of the bush, and parthenocarpic varieties have flowers that form ovaries on their own and do not need pollination at all. Therefore, I am shaping them differently. When 3-5 true leaves form on the main stem, I remove all shoots and buds from their axils. This technique is called blinding.

If this is not done, then the ovaries formed in these places will inhibit the development of the entire cucumber bush, which will ultimately lead to a decrease in yield. Above this level, I leave all the lateral stepchildren, but I stop their growth after the third leaf, pinching the point of growth. When the main stem reaches the upper edge of the trellis, I smoothly transfer its growth to a horizontal position, attaching it with twine to the wire or the upper level of the trellis mesh cells. Then I wait for the appearance of another 2-3 lateral shoots and pinch the main stem. I let these, the latest, stepchildren go down the support and pinch them to the pave-saute about 1 m from the soil surface.

Formation in the greenhouse

The main part of the cucumbers grows in my open field, and only to get early greens I plant several plants in the greenhouse, where I also tie the whips to a vertical support. But since the greenhouse bushes are illuminated and ventilated worse, I blind the main stem at a height of 40-50 cm, and on the next 50-60 cm I pinch the side stepsons after the first leaf and leave one ovary in their sinuses. For the rest of the side shoots up to a height of 1.5 m, I remove the growth point after the second leaf, and in the upper zone, where the illumination increases, I leave 3-4 leaves on the branches.

After the main stem reaches the upper level of the trellis, I carry out the formation similarly to open ground plants, letting a couple of lashes down. Thus, I increase the load on upper part bush. In the lower part, with this method of formation, thickening is excluded and ventilation is improved, which in turn protects greenhouse cucumbers from damage by root rot.

For a cucumber bush, branching is a natural process, so I regularly form lashes throughout the entire growing season of this crop. Since I visit the dacha only on weekends, then, accordingly, I carry out these works once a week, but by no means less often. Otherwise, the shoots outgrow, and the proper effect of the formation cannot be achieved. In addition, on the plants I remove all yellowed and damaged leaves.

Garter and formation of cucumbers seemed to me a difficult task only when I got acquainted with the intricacies of this process in theory. In practice, everything turned out to be easier. By the way, thanks to this approach, I began to plant a much smaller number of plants.

Expert advice

Operations for the formation of bushes, as well as the removal of unnecessary shoots and dying leaves, are carried out in the early morning, so that the wounds dry up and tighten before evening. Make cuts with sharp, clean scissors and never leave stumps. In addition, do not touch large whips if they are accidentally fixed with antennae in an undesirable direction for you. If you change their position and turn the leaves and ovaries in the direction opposite to their original growth, this will negatively affect their further development.

WHERE WITHOUT PROBLEMS?

CUCUMBERS ARE NOT TOO PICKING CULTURE, BUT TIME TO TIME EVEN THEY CAN THROW THE GARDENER ANY PROBLEM. WE WILL TELL YOU WHAT TO DO IF…

…cucumbers grow ugly

Deformation of Zelentsov is a sign of an imbalance in plant nutrition. So the cucumber tells what exactly it lacks:

a fruit that resembles a light bulb or a pear (narrowing at the stalk and expanding at the tip) indicates a potassium deficiency. At the same time, a brown border may appear on the edges of the leaves. A half-liter jar of ash per 10 liters of water will help solve the problem. Mix everything, let it stand, water 1 liter under a bush;

greens thickened at the stalk and tapering towards the end - a signal of nitrogen starvation.

At the same time, you can notice that the leaves on the cucumber lashes began to grow smaller and turn pale, the shoots became thinner. The problem will be solved by organic top dressing ( herbal infusion, a solution of mullein or chicken manure);

cucumbers "with a waist" (narrowing in the middle of the fruit) are formed most often due to large temperature changes. This usually happens at the end of summer when the days are hot and the nights are already cold. Shelter will help to avoid such a problem;

curved, arcuate greens may be the result of uneven soil moisture, for example, abundant watering after a severe drought. In hybrids, a similar phenomenon occurs in the case of cross-pollination. Proper plant care will prevent this defect from occurring.

... cucumbers are bitter

Bitterness is associated with the formation of cucurbitacin. And this substance is produced in cucumbers under the influence of stress, which can be drought and sudden changes in temperature, and other adverse effects - cucumbers do not like extreme sports.

What to do?

Most reliable way The solution to the problem is to give preference to modern varieties and hybrids that genetically lack the ability to produce cucurbitacin.

Such greens will not be bitter, even if stress factors arise. But taking care of planting is also not superfluous: give your pets enough water, mulch the soil to save moisture, protect plants from temperature fluctuations - then the taste of cucumbers will only please.

... leaves on cucumber lashes turn yellow

If the season comes to an end yellow leaves- a natural phenomenon. You can extend the life of the plant by bending the lash to the ground and partially covering it with soil: cucumbers form adventitious roots well, which will help the bush get additional nutrition and rejuvenate.

When the leaves turn yellow prematurely, this may signal a lack of nitrogen. If the plant is also stunted, has thin, weakened shoots, there is no doubt about the diagnosis. Feed cucumbers with nitrophoska (2 teaspoons per 3 liters of water, apply 1-2 cups under a bush) or organic fertilizer.

... cucumbers do not fruit

There may be several reasons for this:

POLLINATION DID NOT HAPPEN Cucumbers are bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic (forming fruits without pollination). If you plant bee-pollinated varieties in a greenhouse where insects cannot reach, there will be no fruits. Cucumbers are not tied on such plants and in open ground if the weather is cold or rainy (pollinating insects do not fly).

TOO HOT

Cucumbers are thermophilic, but too high an air temperature (most often this happens in greenhouses at the height of summer) leads to the fact that the fruits do not set.

TOO MUCH NITROGEN

This macronutrient stimulates the growth of green mass to the detriment of fruiting. Overfed plants usually have large, succulent leaves, powerful stems, but flowering is weak, few fruits are tied or not formed at all.

YOU HAVE USED FRESH SEEDS

Cucumbers have one feature: plants from fresh (last year's) seeds form many male flowers (barren flowers), and the appearance of female flowers may be delayed. The seeds were stored for 2-3 years before sowing, they produce plants on which female flowers appear simultaneously with male ones, which means that fruiting begins earlier.

... the plant withers

If an outwardly healthy cucumber suddenly begins to fade, it is possible that its root system is damaged. Rodents can work, and excess moisture will affect - there are different reasons. Carefully rake the soil at the base of the stem. If the root collar has rotted and turned brown, the plant is affected by root rot. Broken roots indicate the involvement of underground pests. A plant with damaged roots can be tried to be saved. Cucumber lashes take root well, so it is enough to bend down the shoots to sprinkle it with soil - after some time, roots form in this place.

If, on examination, it turned out that the roots were not damaged, the wilting of the plant is most likely associated with a viral disease - verticillium wilt (wilt). In this case, it should be removed as soon as possible so that the disease does not spread.

... small holes appear on the leaves

This is what traces look like sunburn that occur in plants in greenhouses. At night, due to the temperature difference, condensation forms on the film. When falling on the leaves, the droplets work like magnifying glasses - lift the leaf plate and burn through it with the rays of the sun.

On a note: How to store cucumbers in summer

In the summer, of course, it is best to pick cucumbers directly from the lashes and eat them immediately. And yet there are cases when you need to keep greens for a week, and maybe even a month. How to do it?

On the same principle - creating a film on the surface of cucumbers that prevents the evaporation of moisture and the penetration of air involved in the process of decomposition of organic substances, another method is based. But it is absolutely harmless, since food raw materials are used. Freshly harvested greens must be washed with boiled water, then wiped thoroughly and gently coated egg white so that there are no uncovered places. Cucumbers must be necessarily with a stalk, they are hung for it so that the protein dries up and forms a reliable film. They are stored in this form for a month or more.

In the cellar and basement

The optimal conditions for storing cucumbers - humidity 90-95% and temperature plus 5-6 degrees - make it possible to keep vegetables in their "natural" form for 2-3 weeks. These parameters are usually easy to maintain in cellars and basements. Zelentsy is best placed in thin plastic bags with a capacity of 2-4 kg. First, you should cut off the remaining inflorescences and wrap each fruit with a paper napkin or towel. You don't need to wash cucumbers.

The bags are about two-thirds full and the top is folded over, but the bag itself is not tied or sealed. Loose packaging provides a small flow of air to the cucumbers, which is what they need. At the same time, the plastic film creates increased air humidity, preventing the cucumbers from wilting.

In fridge

You can store the crop on the lower shelves of refrigerators. But here the temperature is somewhat lower, and the humidity is much higher than the recommended parameters. And if, as is often advised, to store greens in open or perforated bags, then they will give up their moisture to the air in the refrigerator and quickly become flabby. Therefore, you need to send cucumbers here in tightly tied bags, and even make sure that there are no holes in them. If this condition is met, then the fruits will remain fresh for 10 days.

At room temperature

Cucumbers placed with their stalk down three-quarters of the length into water, which must be changed daily, will withstand the same amount. A little less - 7-8 days - you can store greens in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. The last two methods imply that storage occurs at room temperature.

Under the "film"

There are some unusual cucumber storage methods that are questionable. So, it is advised to cover fresh fruits with petroleum jelly - they say, in this form they can keep good taste qualities for a month or more. But the question arises: how then to eat them?

old recipe

Pour a little vinegar into a pot or enamel pan, place a grate or colander on top, put cucumbers and close the lid tightly.

On a note

Thick-skinned cucumbers keep longer than others.

Fruits with white spikes keep better and longer than those with black ones.

The smallest - gherkins 4-5 long and pickles -1-3 cm, intended for canning, can be stored for no more than 10 hours.

It is better to collect cucumbers early in the morning or in the evening and immediately place them in the shade or in a cool place. After harvesting, cucumbers are not washed, because after that they fade faster and are poorly stored.

WHAT A BED WITHOUT CUCUMBERS!

And it all starts with the choice of hybrid varieties so that the cucumbers grow tasty and beautiful, and the harvest, of course, would please.

My choice depends on the goals and conditions for growing cucumbers. For example, salad varieties of cucumbers are not suitable for pickling. But many varieties and hybrids are universal, which means they are suitable for both fresh consumption and harvesting. It is very comfortable.

I advise lovers of pickled cucumbers to opt for short-fruited varieties with a large-lumpy surface. True, under adverse conditions, their taste may deteriorate - they begin to taste bitter. For salting, this is not scary, but the taste of a fresh salad will be spoiled. To avoid such a nuisance, one must carefully study the description of the taste of the hybrid.

Choose those in which the ability to bitterness is excluded at the genetic level. For example, Zozulya F1, Malay-shock-Sturdy F1, Paso Doble F1 and others. ,

Never choose cucumber seeds from a picture. Of course, a colorful photo on a bag of seeds can give a general idea of ​​\u200b\u200ba variety or hybrid. But the most important thing is its characterization. So carefully read everything that is printed on the package.

Greenhouse or open ground?

This is another important nuance that should not be missed. There are both self-pollinating (partheno-carpic type) hybrids, and those that depend on pollinating insects. It is undesirable to sow the latter in greenhouses, otherwise you will have to hand-pollinate your plants. It is not difficult to do this: you need to pick a male flower and transfer the pollen from it to the female ovaries. But it is also a labor that requires a lot of time.

There is another important detail that I advise you to pay attention to - the ability of fruits to maintain a dense texture during salting and canning without the formation of voids, as well as a pleasant crunch. For this purpose, I recommend Khrustyshchy, hybrids True Friends F1, Masha F1, Real Miracle Crunch F1, which are also devoid of bitterness at the genetic level.

HOW TO PLANT SEEDLINGS CORRECTLY IN OPEN GROUND

Every year spring comes in different time, therefore, seedlings are planted in different ways. But I try to land before mid-May, unless, of course, the weather is favorable.

I start preparing the soil already in the fall. I bring in for digging coarse sand at the rate of a bucket per 1 sq. m. If your site has sandy soil, you do not need to do this. Next, I add fluffy lime (500-700 g per 1 sq. M) to lower the pH level, compost or rotted manure (5-7 kg per sq. M).

In the spring, I scatter mineral fertilizers (1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate, 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. M), planting them in the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm.

I form the beds the day before planting. Usually their width is 120 cm, and the height is 15-20 cm. I make holes in

2 rows at a distance of 35-40 cm in a row with a row spacing of 55-60 cm.

I plant seedlings of tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy weather. Two hours before planting, seedlings in containers are watered abundantly. So the earthen ball does not fall apart during transplantation. When planting, I deepen tomato seedlings to the first pair of true leaves. I plant the overgrown reclining, directing the roots to the south. I water abundantly and put a peg near each plant, to which I will tie grown tomatoes in the future.

To preserve moisture, I mulch the bed with mowed grass or old hay.

After planting, seedlings should adapt to new conditions within 5-10 days. During this period, I do not water them and do not make any top dressing.

When the seedlings take root, I begin to water and feed. When watering, I focus on the state of seedlings and soil about once a week, 3 liters for each root, since sprinkling increases the risk of developing diseases. In hot weather, I water more often.

I spend all watering in the evening, and the next morning I will definitely loosen the soil. After each watering or rain, I loosen the soil by 5 cm. I carry out weeding until the beds are covered with mulch.

When I see that the seedlings have taken root, I mulch the beds with hay or grass with a layer of about 10 cm.

This will keep the soil from overheating and retain moisture. Even in the hottest weather, under mulch, the ground is cool and slightly damp. This is especially important during the fruiting period. Also, weeds don't grow.

Growing cucumbers on a round bed: Why are empty flowers on cucumbers Sometimes gardeners ...

: Cucumbers in the apartment - secrets ...

To grow in the field delicious cucumbers, planting and care in the open field will take time and a number of agrotechnical measures that contribute to a good harvest. It is hard to imagine a garden without cucumber, a beloved and sought-after vegetable, saturated with useful vitamins and microelements.

Cucumbers before planting - preparation

Two-year-old seeds are considered the best material for sowing, they have good germination. To grow delicious cucumbers, planting and care in the open field is done both in seedlings and in seedlings. Cucumber seeds should be prepared before planting, this will increase their germination. To do this, soak them in warm, salty water, after a while, low-quality seeds will float to the surface.

After selecting full-weight seeds, calibrating and disinfecting them, treat them with wood ash. To do this, prepare a solution consisting of 2 tablespoons of ash and 1 liter of water, infused for two days and hold the planting material in it for 2-3 hours, then remove and dry. The final preparatory event is the hardening of the seeds, for this, place the swollen and hatched seeds first on the top shelf of the refrigerator, then on the bottom.

Planting cucumbers in open ground

Experienced gardeners It is advised that planting cucumbers and caring for them in the open field is best done in seedlings. This will result in fruits appearing two weeks earlier than when planting this crop from seeds. Cucumber seedlings are planted in open ground in the third decade of May, it is good if different varieties grow nearby, this will improve their pollination and increase productivity. Planting cucumbers in the ground with seeds is carried out in the last days of May or in the first days of June, when the soil is heated to + 15-18 ° C.

Planting cucumbers in the ground with seeds

Cucumber seeds are planted in the ground both dry and sprouted. If sowing is early, it is better to use dry seeds, since germinated seeds that fall into slightly warmed ground will rot, it is better to sow them when the soil warms up steadily to at least + 12-14 ° C. To achieve high yields by sowing seeds in open ground, a few tips will help you:

• select full-weight seeds two-, three-year-old;
• calibrate the seed material;
• apply the seed disinfection method;
• treat the seeds with wood ash or purchased;
• harden the seeds.

After pre-training seeds and soil, start planting. Seeds are sown either in grooves made to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm, or in holes located at a distance of 18-20 cm, two or three seeds in the form of a triangle. Ground black pepper can be sprinkled over the surface of the soil, repelling ants, slugs and mice. On top of the beds, you can stretch a covering, non-woven material, preferably in two layers.

Cucumbers - planting seedlings

When sowing pre-prepared seeds for seedlings, do it in separate cups, so the plants will more easily transfer the transplant to open ground. To do this, prepare the mixture, taking equal parts of soddy soil, peat, humus and sawdust, fill the containers and plant two or three seeds in them. Cover the cups with polyethylene, until seedlings appear, pour with settled water, at room temperature, when sprouts appear, remove the weak ones.

Transplantation of seedlings into the ground is carried out in holes with compost or rotted manure previously introduced into them, in the last decade of May, early June. Lower the roots into the holes vertically, if the seedlings are overgrown, then obliquely. In the first days after planting, the plants should be watered and shaded abundantly. Caring for seedlings of cucumbers consists in fulfilling several necessary requirements:

• regular watering, especially during the heat, flowering and fruiting;
• plant formation;
• weeding;
• timely and regular loosening of the soil.

Planting cucumbers - timing

To grow cucumbers on the site, planting and care in the open field, this vegetable crop is produced depending on the variety, which requires certain climatic conditions, growing methods. The main point of planting cucumbers in the ground, seeds or seedlings, is stable warm weather and well-warmed soil, the timing of this event is different, this is affected by the location of the region. If during the week the night temperature did not fall below + 10-15 ° C, and mass flowering of dandelions is observed, then planting cucumbers in the ground is possible.

Cucumbers - cultivation and care in the open field

When growing cucumbers, it should be borne in mind that in the area allocated for this, gourds and pumpkin crops should not grow in front of them. Before planting cucumbers, the soil should be prepared in advance, mineral and organic fertilizers should be added to it. Next, you should decide how you will plant this vegetable crop: seedling or seedless, and prepare.

Planting cucumbers, growing and caring for them in the open field, consists of a number of necessary agricultural practices and activities, the main of which are:

• choosing a site for planting with loose, fertile soil that can retain moisture, well lit, protected from the wind;
• covering the beds after planting from the bright rays of the sun;
• and pinches;
• regular top dressing with the use of organic matter and mineral fertilizers;
• before the fruiting period, mandatory weeding, loosening and heaping;
• garter;
• competent watering (especially during the growth period).

Caring for cucumbers after planting

Caring for cucumbers in the open field immediately after planting is, first of all, properly adjusted watering. Cucumbers do not tolerate drought, but they also do not like excess moisture. In the heat, cucumbers should be watered up to five times a week with warm water; on cloudy days, you can do without watering. Keep an eye on the tendrils that appear, remove the extra ones so that they do not pull on the nutrition necessary for the plant.

Appeared early flowers on a plant not yet ready for fruiting, it is better to remove, as well as shoots developed from the axils of the first leaves and side shoots that grow along with the ovary. It is very important after planting to regularly apply fertilizers and various types of root dressings to the soil, but you can not overdo it with this, as this will reduce fruiting.

Care for seedlings of cucumbers in the open field

Planting and caring for cucumbers in the open field require constant monitoring of their condition and soil moisture. If you notice that the leaves have become sluggish, be sure to pour them with warm water in the evening. Densely sprouted sprouts should definitely be thinned out, do it in two or three stages, gradually removing the weakest plants. Being engaged in thinning, weeding and loosening are carried out at the same time, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the root system.

Ideal for growing bush cucumbers, they have high yield, early ripening, increased disease resistance. It is much easier to care for bush cucumbers, they are less whimsical, they do not need trellises for garters, you just need to follow certain rules:

• irrigation measures, in the absence of rain, are carried out twice a day;
• bush cucumbers consume nutrients more intensively, they need systematic feeding;
• when sowing seeds, they must be covered with a protective film, under it the seedlings will develop better.

Rules for the care of cucumbers - watering

The root system of a cucumber good growth and healthy development requires constant watering, insufficient moisture leads to darkening of the foliage, the plant falls into a state of stress. Excess moisture inhibits the development of lashes, takes oxygen from the soil. Jumps in the amount of moisture are detrimental to this vegetable crop, because of them there is bitterness in the fruits.

Caring for cucumbers and especially watering is necessary during the period of active growth and fruit set. Warm water is used for this, watering with cold water will lead to a decrease in growth and the appearance of diseases. One of the effective and modern methods can be called drip irrigation, when it is carried out, moisture enters directly into the root system, this helps to reduce water consumption and prevents the growth of weeds.

Cultivation of seedlings of cucumbers - top dressing

It is especially important to feed cucumbers during the period of incipient flowering and fruit set. Care and feeding of cucumbers in the open field is most useful using infusions or herbs, they will provide nutrition for plants and protect against. They can be produced in 10-14 days, accompanied by mandatory watering. Alternating organic matter with minerals, add nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to the soil. This should be done in warm weather, in cold weather - top dressing will be useless.

Cucumber care - pinching

First you need to form the whips and tie them to the trellis. Pinching cucumbers comes down to proper care of the main stem. By implementing proper care for cucumbers, pinching of male shoots or "empty flowers" should be carried out. This event will provide cucumbers with:

• the formation of "female" flowers and subsequent ovaries;
• will eliminate the bitter taste in the fruit.

Pinching the main stem is done after it reaches the top of the trellis, 4-5 growth points are left for it, removing the first three leaves along with the axils - this contributes to the development of lateral shoots, they are pinched over the third leaf, and this already contributes to the appearance of female flowers. Remove male barren flowers from the main stem, weak side shoots and clean the plant from twisted and diseased leaves.

Pasynkovanie cucumbers

To appear in the greenhouse more early harvest, seedlings stepchildren, that is, they remove extra stepchildren that increase the green mass. When growing and caring for cucumbers in the open field, especially if they grow on fertile soils, this procedure is not necessary, especially without experience and skills. If you still want to increase the amount of the crop, you can remove the stepchildren, removing the extra ones that draw food and do not bear fruit, while the shoots are pinched off after the first 4-5 leaves. The decision on pinching should also be made depending on the variety of cucumber.

To get a good harvest, planting cucumbers in open ground is carried out in a sunny area, protected from northern winds. Along the perimeter of the selected allotment, fast-growing tall crops (legumes, sunflowers or potatoes) should be planted, which will help create a microclimate favorable for cucumbers.

Depending on the region, cucumber crops are planted in the spring, when the soil warms up enough. You can plant cucumbers using seedlings or sowing seeds.

Competent tillage

For growing cucumbers in open ground, the site is prepared in the fall. To do this, the soil needs to be dug up and fertilized. To disinfect the soil and destroy pathogens, you need to treat the soil with a solution of copper sulfate and add a portion of superphosphate and.

For successful cultivation cucumbers, “warm” ridges with an internal organic “pillow”, 20-25 cm high, are well suited. Organics will help provide vegetables with the necessary trace elements and protect the root system from freezing.

Planting seedlings of cucumbers in open ground will give a good harvest in the middle and northern latitudes, and in the southern regions, vegetables can be sown in the soil in early spring.

Features of sowing seeds in open ground

Experienced farmers recommend sowing seeds in 2-3 doses to insure seedlings from unexpected return frosts and prolong fruiting. Planting cucumbers in open ground with seeds is carried out from mid-spring to early summer. It is important not to miss the moment, because the summer heat adversely affects the development of the plant.

Seed selection

Seeds can be purchased in specialized places or collected independently. Their shelf life must be at least two years, so that the seedlings are strong and friendly.

Cucumber seeds for sowing should be High Quality. To identify unsuitable material, place it in a container with warm water. Poor quality seeds will float to the surface. Seeds of cucumbers that have sunk to the bottom, after pre-treatment, can be used for sowing. To get earlier shoots, the seed is germinated by placing it in wet sawdust, peat or cloth. During germination, weak seeds are additionally discarded.

Preparing seeds for sowing

The preparation of seed material includes several stages:

1. Selected seeds are placed for several minutes in a manganese solution.
2. Dry and warm for about two hours at a temperature of 60 degrees. This speeds up fruiting.
3. Placed for half a day in an aqueous solution with manganese sulfate, potassium nitrate and superphosphate.
4. Again dried and sown.

If there is no information on the purpose of vegetables on the package, then you should take a closer look at the photo: cucumbers suitable for canning are covered with dark pimples, and those that are consumed fresh are white.

It is necessary to plant cucumber seeds in open ground when the weather is warm and the soil warms up enough. If there is still a threat of frost, then it is recommended to cover the crops with foil.

Rules for sowing seeds in unprotected soil

Planting holes are formed on the prepared ridges and spilled with water. Seed material is laid out in them, deepening by 2 cm, with an interval of 8-10 cm, sprinkled on top with humus mixture or earth with the addition of sawdust. On 10 square meters, an average of 50 grams of seeds will be needed. If the quality of the seed material does not inspire confidence, then 2-4 seeds can be placed in one hole.

Features of the seedling method

Cucumber seedlings can be grown in a warm, well-lit room. Planting containers are filled with a substrate from a mixture of peat and sawdust with the addition of ammonium nitrate and watered.

Seeds are deepened into the substrate by 1 cm and added dropwise. The containers are covered with polyethylene until the first shoots. As the seedlings grow, you need to ensure that the soil is constantly moistened. Before planting cucumbers in open ground, seedlings need to be hardened off for a week, gradually accustoming them to fresh air.

Landing Rules

The day before planting, seedlings should be well shed. The procedure is carried out in clear warm weather. Cucumber seedlings are planted in open ground at intervals of 10-15 cm so that the plants do not interfere with each other. Only the roots go deep into the ground, otherwise there will be a risk of root rot.

Care rules

Growing a cucumber crop involves observing a number of rules, which consist of irrigation, fertilization, loosening and hilling, protection from diseases and pests.

After planting cucumbers in open ground, they need careful care, because the plants are not yet accustomed to new conditions and are vulnerable:

Fertilizers must be applied carefully so as not to scorch the leaves. The procedure is carried out in warm, clear weather, otherwise the nutrients will not be fully absorbed by the root system.

Disease protection

Cucumber culture has many enemies. But the most common and dangerous disease is cladosporiosis. The causative agent of the disease are fungi, which activate their activity during sudden changes in temperature and high humidity. On the bushes and young cucumbers, black spots with a sulfur coating are formed. The fruits are twisted and stop growing.

For treatment, drugs with benzimidazole are used, in the form of a spray solution.

Also, cucumbers can hit. This fungal disease, which is manifested by the appearance of white bloom on the foliage. The disease spreads rapidly and the plant dies.

For treatment, sulfur-containing and fungicidal preparations are used, weeds and damaged parts of the plant are removed.

A good harvest of cucumbers directly depends on quality care and proper planting. Detailed tips for planting cucumbers in open ground can be viewed on the video.

Harvesting should be in the morning or evening, and to keep the vegetables firm, they should be covered with a tarp or placed in a cool, shady spot. If you follow all the rules of agricultural technology and choose the right variety of crop, then the yields will be stable and rich.

Planting seeds and seedlings of cucumbers in the ground - video

Cucumbers are one of the most popular types of vegetable crops that can be planted in almost any summer cottage. Growing this vegetable takes quite a lot of time and effort, but with the right approach, you can get a tasty and high-quality crop. That is why almost any summer resident who has his own plot, be sure to plant cucumbers on it.

Selection of planting material

In the process of growing cucumbers, close attention must be paid to the selection of planting material, which determines not only the quality and taste of the fruit, but also the ability of seeds to resist various bacteria and survive in certain climatic conditions. Varieties of cucumbers are bee-pollinated, self-pollinated and parthenocarpic.

One of the most popular varieties today are bee-pollinated, which can be grown not only in an open area, but also in polycarbonate greenhouses. If you want to attract as many bees as possible to crops of cucumbers, it is recommended to plant flowers nearby and process your crop with a sugar solution.

The main advantage of such a vegetable crop is that it is not very whimsical to care for and is able to cope with the most adverse weather conditions. In addition, these cucumbers boast a unique taste and aroma.

The main problem of modern summer cottages is that it is quite difficult to attract bees here. And there are several reasons for this. The first place is occupied by the problem of the need to treat the crop with the help of specialized chemicals. Bees react quite strongly to such reagents, and therefore they try to bypass such areas. Of course, without processing cucumbers and other vegetable crops, various diseases and pests will certainly attack them, so there is not much choice.

Here, self-pollinated and parthenocarpic varieties come to the aid of summer residents. The main advantage of such plants is that pollination is carried out here without bees. These varieties are excellent not only for planting in open ground, but also for use in greenhouse conditions.

The ideal solution is to plant these varieties in regions that are characterized by heavy rainfall.

Advanced technologies do not stand still and do not bypass even the area of ​​​​cucumbers. Scientists have long developed a huge number of varieties that are resistant to diseases such as powdery mildew or root rot. In addition, modern varieties can boast of unique taste qualities: they are quite sweet and do not have a drop of bitterness.

It should be noted that varieties of cucumbers are also divided depending on the timing of ripening.

If you want to harvest throughout the summer, then you need to give preference to species that ripen at different times.

Timing

Before you start growing cucumbers, you need to decide when exactly you can plant the seeds. The timing of sowing this vegetable crop depends primarily on the climatic features of the region.

If the summer resident lives in the southern hemisphere, which is characterized by a large number of warm days and a lot of sunshine, then planting should begin at the end of winter or early spring, due to which the planting of cucumbers in an open area will take place around mid-May.

But residents of the northern regions need to wait a little with this process, since frosts are possible even in the last days of spring.

When determining the most optimal conditions night temperatures must be taken into account, because even a few hours of frost at night is enough for the crop to be completely destroyed.

It is possible to plant cucumbers with seeds in a summer cottage only under conditions when the temperature outside does not fall below 10 degrees Celsius. The ideal option is considered to be climatic conditions under which the air temperature at night is more than 15 degrees, and during the day about 30.

Preparatory work

The success of planting cucumber seeds in open ground largely depends on the quality of the preparatory work carried out. They determine the future ability of seeds to resist climatic conditions, diseases and pests. With the right approach, you can greatly facilitate the further process of caring for this vegetable crop.

planting material

First of all, it is necessary to pay close attention to the preparation of planting material, as well as tillage for planting cucumbers. And if you want to achieve high-quality results, then you need to correctly germinate the seeds. If at this stage you cheat and do not work at the proper level, then the seeds will not be able to survive in open ground conditions and the crop will be completely ruined.

Choose the best varieties for planting. It should be noted that in this case it is necessary to be guided not only by one's own wishes and preferences, but also take into account the climatic features of the region, the type of soil and other indicators.

In addition, selected seed varieties must be suitable for outdoor use.

Today, hybrid options are very popular, which boast resistance to a huge number of diseases and pests. If you have a certain budget, it is best to give preference to just such varieties. Their main advantage also lies in the fact that they cope well with bad weather conditions.

Responsible selection of planting material will help to avoid problems in the future. If you correctly approach this process, then there is no doubt that the harvest will be of high quality and tasty.

When selecting planting material, it is also necessary to pay attention to the germination of seeds; success in growing this vegetable crop also depends on this.

Consider a detailed germination scheme.

• Sorting. All selected planting material must be sorted according to certain criteria. Experts recommend choosing the largest seeds for planting, which can definitely survive in open ground conditions.
• Carrying out disinfection. In no case should seeds be planted before they are free from any microorganisms and bacteria. It should be dipped in a pre-prepared saline solution for 10-15 minutes. If the seeds begin to float, it means that they are spoiled and cannot be used for planting. But the remaining material will be an excellent solution for use in conditions of such cultivation in the garden. For disinfection, summer residents often use a solution of potassium permanganate, after which it is imperative to rinse the seeds with running water and dry them on a paper towel.

• Warming up. About 20 hours, the seeds must be thoroughly warmed up in order to dry out all the moisture and prepare them for planting.
• Germination. To do this, the seeds are folded into a special cloth, lowered into a solution of nitrophoska, and then washed in running water.

If the selection of planting material was correct, and you did not violate any rules, then soon the seeds will begin to swell.

After the appearance of the first roots, they can already be planted in the ground.

Priming

Preparatory work also includes tillage, on which the integrity of the crop depends upon planting. It is the soil that provides the cucumbers with all the necessary nutrients, which, in turn, guarantee the growth of the crop.

First of all, in order to obtain a quality crop, you need to correctly choose the site where it will be cultivated. It should be noted that most gardeners neglect the preparation of the soil, and do not follow the rules of competent crop rotation. Cucumber seeds are extremely demanding on the condition of the soil, so it is best not to plant this vegetable crop in the same place for several years in a row. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the presence of sunlight and moisture in the planting area.

It is best to abandon the idea of ​​planting seeds in low terrain conditions, since the air is usually cold here, and it is difficult for seeds to germinate in such conditions.

Summer residents argue that the optimal types of soil for planting this vegetable crop are loamy and sandy. This vegetable crop shows the best performance in fertile areas, which are characterized by slightly increased acidity and the presence of special fertilizers. Cucumbers are highly demanding on the state of the soil, so you can not plant seeds in the ground that was previously used for planting vegetables.

The ideal option is to use the soil on which potatoes or onions were previously planted.

At the same time, in no case should cucumber seeds be planted after watermelons, zucchini or pumpkins, since they use the same nutrients, and the earth will definitely not be so rich in them to ensure high-quality crop growth.

Close attention in the process of planting cucumber seeds in a summer cottage should also be paid to the use of fertilizers. As already stated, this vegetable crop is quite demanding on the availability of nutrients in the ground, so you should make sure that they will be enough. The main problem is that the root system of cucumbers is located in the upper part of the soil, therefore it quickly consumes nutrients and constantly needs their influx.

Organic fertilizers for cucumbers are considered one of the most effective. For example, you can always use fresh manure that is applied in the fall. In the future, it turns into humus, which positively affects the structure of the soil and saturates it with the necessary trace elements.

If you are using heavy clay soil, then it is rational to treat it with fresh manure two months before sowing the seeds. In addition, this method is considered ideal even if the soil is too cold, since fresh manure allows it to be insulated. The use of organic fertilizers also improves the performance of mineral options. The main advantage of manure is that it includes a huge amount of useful trace elements, including nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium and many others.

It should be remembered that the amount of organic fertilizers applied must be at a certain level. Most summer residents believe that the more fertilizer they have applied, the better the seeds will germinate, however, such an opinion is extremely erroneous.

The amount of manure depends on the quality of the soil, and cannot exceed 10 kg per square meter. If the soil is light, then this amount will be much less.

As for the use of peat, it will only be advisable on damp soils, since peat has the property of improving the structure and physical characteristics of the soil.

Before planting cucumber seeds in open ground, it is also necessary to use mineral fertilizers from ash, which play the role of potassium trace elements. Here, choosing the optimal amount is quite simple: you can use about 200 g per square meter of soil. If organic fertilizer can be added in autumn or winter, then mineral fertilizers can only be used during spring digging.

If you decide to use complex options that are sold in specialized stores, then you must strictly follow the instructions and dosage indicated on the package. However, regardless of the type of mineral fertilizers, they are almost always used immediately before planting seeds in open ground.

How to plant?

Planting cucumber seeds in open ground consists of certain step by step rules. First of all, you need to choose the right site that can boast the optimal amount of sunlight and will be protected from constant drafts. It should be taken into account the fact that the last date for planting cucumber seeds in open area is June.

It is not recommended to plant later, as you will not be able to get a crop, in September the first night cooling will already begin. If you have the opportunity to use films and various other shelters, then you can plant the first seeds in open ground as early as May.

However, the crop must be carefully covered to protect it from night cooling.

Such a vegetable crop is very thermophilic, so it can be grown only when the soil is perfectly warm. A favorable temperature is considered to be at least 16 degrees Celsius. At the same time, it is imperative to provide shade if the air temperature is about 30 degrees or more.

The area for planting cucumber seeds must be carefully prepared in the fall. It needs not only to be fertilized with the help of special substances, but also to be completely dug up. This will saturate the soil with the necessary trace elements, as well as in the future to protect the crop from pests and microorganisms.

A distinctive feature of the root system of the crop is that it does not go deep, so it is forbidden to loosen the ground around the plant. Most experts recommend mulching, which is suitable for peat or sawdust. Mulch is what keeps moisture in the soil and keeps weeds out.

Features of planting seeds depend on the material used. Each person independently decides how to carry out the landing. It is believed that the highest quality crop can be obtained if seeds are planted in a summer cottage.

If the climate is mild, and the soil boasts fertility, then you can immediately sow the seeds in the garden bed.

Most experienced summer residents try to plant seeds several times with different time intervals. For example, the first time you can plant seeds in the tenth of May, and then already in early June. It is not worth planting later, because in July the weather is too hot and it will be extremely difficult for young seedlings to grow in such conditions.

It is best to plant hybrid seeds that are derived from several varieties. Scientists have long understood that each variety has its own advantages, and combining the advantages of several varieties in one product will be extremely beneficial. These plants are quite easy to care for, and they are also less prone to various diseases and pests. In addition, such vegetable crops can easily cope with bad weather conditions, which allows you to protect your crop in case of bad weather.

One of the most important issues remains the problem of laying seeds in the hole in the process of planting cucumbers.

Most summer residents, especially beginners, do not know how to do it right. In no case should they be planted with a sharp end down, because that is where the root grows. If the sharp end is pointing up, then the sprout will break through from there and push the leaves out. Not proper fit seeds can cause the plant to simply die. In addition, experts do not advise planting a seed with a blunt end down, it is best to install it vertically.

If cucumber seeds are planted, then they can be pre-germinated. The peculiarity of germinated cucumber seeds is that they allow you to provide seedlings with a strength that will develop more easily. It is important to clearly follow all the recommendations and rules, because the ability of the crop to survive in open conditions. Sprouts will hatch only when the air temperature is at least 22 degrees, otherwise the process may be delayed.

It is necessary to plant the seeds of this crop only if the sprout is at least half a centimeter in length. When working with seeds, you must be extremely careful and careful, because any mechanical damage can lead to the death of the plant in the future. No more than three seeds can be placed in one hole in the form of a triangle. If you place a larger number of seeds, then in the process of germination they will interfere with each other and the crop will turn out to be of poor quality.

The scheme for planting cucumbers in the open field with the help of seeds has its own unique features. In early May, the seeds must be planted in a pot and placed on a well-lit, warm windowsill. It is in winter that everything should be spent preparatory work using peat, potassium and ammonium nitrate.

In order to plant seeds in the ground, it is necessary to prepare recesses that will be no deeper than 1 cm, and place the grains there. After all the seeds are planted, they are sprinkled with earth. A plant can only be transplanted if it already has at least 5 leaves, and this will happen at least a month after the first planting.

Planting cucumber seeds in a summer cottage should be carried out on a dry sunny day so that the plant can get the right heat and a minimum level of moisture. Do not water the soil for the first few days. In no case should deep planting be carried out, as this greatly increases the risk of root rot in the future.

Close attention in the process of planting cucumber seeds in open ground should be paid to the spacing between seedlings - it should be at least 18 cm. As for the rows, the distance between them should be about 30 cm.

After the plants are planted, the soil must not be watered for three days and mulched.

Features of care

Regardless of how exactly the cucumbers were planted, their care is almost always the same. It is mandatory to carry out watering, fertilizing, hilling. This allows not only to ensure the quality of the crop, but also to make the fruits stronger and protected from harmful microorganisms and pests.

Watering

One of the most important processes for cucumbers is watering. Without moisture, not a single living creature on our planet can exist, and cucumbers are no exception. And if a vegetable crop feels a lack of water resources, then the fruits will be much smaller, and their quality and size will deteriorate. In addition, when planting seeds in open ground, the crop may be bitter, and this will greatly spoil the impression and taste of the product.

That is why experts recommend watering cucumbers on an ongoing basis, at least once a week. If the weather is too hot and the humidity level is low, then the number of waterings per week can be increased to three. You should not watch the calendar, but the weather conditions, because even in May there are too dry days when planted plants need a huge amount of water.

In addition, there are periods with heavy rains, when the plants not only do not need to be watered, but also it is necessary to ensure their reliable protection from an excess of moisture. The latter can cause root rot, which in the future will lead to the complete destruction of the crop.

In the process of watering, you should definitely take into account the fact that young plants do not need a lot of water, but adults need to be watered much more often, as they absorb more moisture and need more trace elements. In any case, during the irrigation process, it is necessary to ensure that the water completely saturates the ground and reaches the roots.

Unlike greenhouse plants, cucumbers should never be fully watered if they are planted outdoors. If you pour the leaves, then under the influence of sunlight they will get quite severe burns. In order to be safe from such moments, it is recommended to water early in the morning or late in the evening, when the sun's rays minimal amount. In addition, it should be remembered that cucumber seeds should never be watered if the air temperature is below 12 degrees Celsius.

If you want them to sprout quickly and without problems, then pay attention to the watering process.

top dressing

In order to get a high-quality and good harvest, cucumbers must be fed. The amount of fertilizing depends on the variety of seeds used and the characteristics of the soil. On average, for 1 season you will have to feed at least 6 times. The first time it is worth resorting to after the first shoots. To do this, you can use both organic and mineral fertilizers. If you want to achieve the most positive results and get a quality crop, you can carry out a combination of mineral and organic additives.

Mullein and chicken manure show themselves well, which, in combination with ash, will provide the seeds with all the necessary trace elements. From mineral fertilizers, it is better to give preference to superphosphate and urea, as well as potassium sulfate.

As soon as the fruits begin to appear, you can add nitrogen fertilizers, which are very good as an additional feed for the root system of cucumbers.

Garter

A properly organized garter makes it possible to solve several problems at the same time, including: saving space in the garden, easier harvesting and protecting it from a number of pests. It is best to produce a garter when the vegetable crop reaches 30 centimeters or more.

Tying can be carried out both vertically and horizontally. The last option is considered the most simple and optimal.

pasynkovanie

Stepping cucumbers involves getting rid of side shoots that may appear from the axils of the leaves near the main stem of the plant.

The peculiarity of the vegetable crop is that after planting it grows quite strongly. Because of this, the plant spends a lot of energy on the formation of ovaries. In such conditions, the fruits cannot grow properly, they are small and soft.

Diseases and pests

In order for the output to be of high quality and plentiful, close attention should be paid to pest control and various diseases. This vegetable crop can suffer from the same diseases as other melons. First of all, we are talking about Fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, and other culture-destroying diseases.

Anthracnose

One of the most unpleasant moments is anthracnose, which is presented in the form of white mealy spots. The main problem of this disease is that it slowly but surely destroys the entire crop. Such a disease can appear due to frequent fluctuations in temperature, lack of moisture or poor ventilation. In addition, the cause of the disease is often an excess of nitrogen fertilizer used.

If the first symptoms of the disease are detected, measures must be taken immediately, since in the later stages it will not be possible to save the crop. First of all, you need to cut off and burn the affected leaves, and then carry out feeding with potassium.

In addition, an excellent solution to the problem is to spray the plants with mullein tincture.

downy mildew

If there are too many yellow spots on the leaves of cucumbers, then this indicates a defeat by downy mildew. Initially, the spots are small in size, but soon they begin to grow and affect healthy leaves. After the color of the leaves changes to brown, they will begin to dry out.

Downy mildew usually infects plants at the initial stage of development, so you should be extremely careful at this stage. The reason may be too high humidity, the use of cold water for irrigation, or the presence of infections in the seeds.

Gray rot

One of the most complex and unpleasant diseases is gray rot, which is a type of fungus. It develops with sharp fluctuations in temperature and too high humidity. A distinctive feature of this disease is that it can affect not only the fruits, but also the leaves of plants. If no action is taken in time, the foliage will begin to turn yellow and dry out.

It is extremely difficult to cope with gray mold, so it is best to prevent its occurrence with the help of preventive measures. So that the disease does not capture the entire area, you need to get rid of infected leaves and fruits. There are many specialized chemicals on the market today that are designed to help in the fight against gray mold.

Among the most effective are "Euparen Multi" and "Rovral".

white rot

If on vegetable culture white plaque began to appear, then the cucumbers were affected by white rot. The essence of this disease is that it contributes to the decomposition of plant tissues, which as a result become softer and slimier. Prevention of this disease includes regular weeding of beds and ensuring a constant supply of fresh air. If it was not possible to prevent white rot, then you should immediately stop watering for a week and spray the plants with Topaz or other chemicals.

Cucumbers can deteriorate not only due to various diseases, but also pests. If someone eats the leaves of seedlings at night, then these are definitely snails, which are extremely difficult to fight.

The main problem is that they will have to be collected by hand, leaving the garden at night. In addition, special traps can be set.

In recent years, ringing of stems has become very popular, which leads to the formation more ovaries.

Thus, planting cucumber seeds in open ground should be carried out with all responsibility and attention. Only in this case it is possible to obtain a high-quality and tasty harvest in abundant quantities. It is necessary to sow the seeds and plant at a certain time so that the cucumbers can survive in the open air. Cucumbers love heat and moisture, so they sprout better in the presence of a large amount of daylight.

For tips on planting cucumber seeds in open ground, see the following video.

Thanks to their good taste and versatility, cucumbers have become regular regulars in every garden (they are even grown on the windowsill!). Despite the fact that this culture is very unpretentious, not every gardener manages to make a successful planting. The reasons for this failure may lie in the incorrect procedure and subsequent care. But you can succeed in this business without any problems! For information on how to plant cucumbers in open ground with seeds, read this article. Below you will find instructions, tips, tricks, secrets, videos.

• 1 When to plant cucumber seeds in open ground
  • 1.1 By lunar calendar in 2018
  • 1.2 According to the recommendations of manufacturers, depending on the variety
  • 1.3 Depending on region and climate
• 2 How to plant cucumber seeds in open ground
  • 2.1 Seed preparation
  • 2.2 Preparing the soil and beds
  • 2.3 Direct landing
  • 2.4 Shelter after landing
• 3 How to care for cucumbers after planting in open ground
  • 3.1 Watering and humidity
  • 3.2 Top dressing
  • 3.3 Garter
  • 3.4 Mulching, loosening, hilling
  • 3.5 Pinching and pinching
• 4 Diseases and pests

What you will learn from this article:

When to plant cucumber seeds in open ground

Since the culture belongs to the order of heat-loving plants, then it is recommended to plant cucumbers in open ground only when the soil warms up to +15 C. There is no point in sowing earlier, as the seeds will germinate for a long time or will not sprout at all.

But do not put off planting cucumbers in open ground with seeds - optimum temperature for cucumber growth +18-+25 С, and if the peak of their development coincides with the July heat, they simply stop growing and begin to dry out.

Some gardeners, choosing the time when to sow cucumbers in open ground, use potatoes as a guide: if the crop has released several stems, then severe night frosts are unlikely.

According to the lunar calendar in 2018

Planting cucumbers in open ground in 2018 can be done according to the lunar calendar. After all, the fact has long been known that the moon affects not only the world's oceans, but also the juices inside plants. So, the most prosperous period when you can sow cucumbers (however, like all plants), falls on the growing moon.

According to the lunar calendar 2018, the following are considered favorable days when you can plant cucumbers in open ground:

• in March - 19-24, 27, 28;
• in April - from 5-9, 20-24;
• in May - from 4-9, 19-23.

The bad days are:

• February - 14, 15, 16;
• March - 1-3, 16, 30;
• April - 15-17, 29, 30;
• May - 14-16, 28-30;
• June - 12-14, 29.

According to the recommendations of manufacturers, depending on the variety

Cucumber varieties are divided into three types: early-ripening, mid-ripening and late-ripening. To feast on crispy cucumbers continuously, it is better to sow different planting material in turn. Specific dates for planting cucumber seeds of the selected variety are indicated on the back of the package in the form of a table.

Depending on region and climate

Due to the fact that the weather in different parts countries is very different, there are no uniform sowing dates. It is necessary to choose the time for planting cucumbers in open ground, based on the climatic features of each individual region. V middle lane(Moscow region) cucumbers are sown in early or in the first half of May, and in the northern regions - in the second half of May - early June.

The main conditions when choosing a date for planting cucumbers in open ground are ambient temperature should not fall below +15 C otherwise the seeds will not sprout.

Important! Experienced gardeners sow cucumbers in several approaches. Thanks to this trick, they are not afraid of returning frosts, and the plants bear fruit alternately, which allows you to enjoy cucumbers throughout the season.

How to plant cucumber seeds in open ground

In order for the planting of cucumbers in open ground with seeds to be successful, it is not enough to buy seeds and sow them in the first available free hour, you need to carry out a thorough prescribed preparation and follow a number of rules. Let's figure out how to properly plant cucumber seeds in open ground and what are the steps.

Seed preparation

Before you start preparing, planting material must first be purchased. Choosing cucumber seeds for planting in open ground is best, depending on what tasks and ripening terms are set. Having decided on the necessary parameters, you need to pay attention to the year of harvesting the seeds. Unlike the seeds of many other crops, the germination of cucumber seeds only increases over the years: planting material aged 2 to 6 years has the highest germination.

To prepare cucumber seeds for planting in open ground, you need to make sure the quality of the planting material. To do this, the seeds are checked for germination: several seeds of each variety are soaked in warm water throughout the day. Then they are transferred to damp cloth, put on a plate and put in warm place. Varieties of seeds of cucumbers that have sprouted are used for planting in open ground, and the rest are discarded.

Following stratification, the seeds are treated against diseases and pests. Here are the most popular recipes:

• Within 2-3 days before the expected planting date, the seeds soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Such treatment will save the seedling from most diseases, including those caused by the fungus. It is necessary to use such a solution very carefully, because the slightest excess of the dose of powder or an increase in soaking time will cause the planting material to dry out, and it will become unsuitable for planting.
• Several leaves are cut out, wrapped in dark paper and sent to a cellar or refrigerator for 14 days. After the time has elapsed, the juice is squeezed out of the stems and diluted in half with water. Then the mixture is sprayed with the fabric, where the seeds were previously laid and the bookmark is left in this form for a day.

After applying one or another method, cucumber seeds are immediately planted in open ground.

Important! You can improve the germination of planting material, as well as reduce the formation of empty flowers, if you lay it for 3-4 weeks near the battery.

Video: how to prepare cucumber seeds for planting in open ground.

Soil preparation and beds

Soil preparation for planting cucumber seeds in open ground is very important. For preparation, manure or chicken manure is laid out in a thin layer on the site allocated for planting, and then dug deep. Organic fertilizers applied before planting cucumbers will make the soil looser, as well as restore the balance of nutrients necessary for crop growth. For 1 sq. m beds contribute 5 kg of organic fertilizers.

Fans of mineral fertilizers can add fertilizer for pumpkin crops to the soil - " Agricola". Substance consumption per 1 sq. m area - 12-17 g.

Then, for the purpose of disinfection, the soil in the garden is treated, scattered over the surface wood ash or make a small amount superphosphate.

Before planting, holes or rows are made in the garden with a depth of 2 cm. The step between the recesses is 50-60 cm. If it is planned to tie cucumbers to the trellis, the distance between plants is reduced to 25-30 cm.

Video: soil preparation and beds for planting cucumbers in open ground.

Direct landing

To plant cucumbers in open ground with seeds, you need to make even rows. To do this, put on the garden wooden lath and press it down a little to the depth of the row turned out to be 2 cm. Wells are prepared with an ordinary chopper. If the soil is not moist enough, then a little water is poured into the recesses. It is also necessary to take into account the distance when planting cucumber seeds in open ground. Optimal distance– 40-60 centimeters.

The depth of planting cucumbers with seeds in open ground is 2-3 centimeters.

Seeds are placed in rows or holes flat or with pointed tips up, pressing a little. 3 to 5 seeds are planted in one hole. Then the planting material is covered with a small layer of earth and lightly pressed against the seeds. This method of planting cucumbers with seeds in the ground is very simple and accessible to every gardener.

To protect seedlings from attack by hungry ants, slugs and mice, a mixture of black and red ground pepper is scattered over the garden.

Video: proper planting of cucumbers in open ground with seeds.

By the way! Cucumbers can be effectively and interestingly grown in barrels.

Shelter after landing

Read also:

To create the high humidity that cucumbers love so much, a bed with crops is covered with polyethylene. Some gardeners mount over plantings mini greenhouse from flexible wooden arches. Cucumbers covered in this way, due to the high humidity, will quickly germinate and will not suffer from recurrent frosts.

Read also:

How to deal with aphids on cucumbers: effective ways and…

Rules and terms for planting cucumbers for seedlings in 2018

How to grow cucumbers in a barrel: planting and care tips

How to pinch cucumbers

As soon as the seedlings germinate, the shelter is removed, gradually increasing the time spent outdoors.. It is especially important to lift the film on hot days, because under the influence high temperature young plants can get burned. With bee-pollinated varieties, shelter is removed after the start of the flowering period. Self-pollinating types of cucumbers can be grown under cover all summer, periodically removing it for care manipulations.

How to care for cucumbers after planting in open ground

In order for tasty cucumbers to grow after planting in the open field, it is necessary to fully care for them. What needs to be done? For successful cultivation, it is necessary to provide watering, top dressing, loosening, and more. etc. It is important to do everything in a timely manner and with high quality. For more information about caring for cucumbers after planting in the open field, read on.

Watering and humidity

In most cases, it is not necessary to moisten the soil under the shelter before the seeds emerge, since the covering material prevents moisture from evaporating. But it is still necessary to control the condition of the soil, since the slightest drying out can cause the death of hatched seeds.

By the way! Read more about the rules for watering cucumbers in open ground. in this article!

During the growing season in dry weather, cucumbers are watered 1 time in 2-3 days.

There is no fundamental difference when watering cucumbers (morning or evening). It is best to water them in the early morning or evening. when the sun goes down.

Important! Watering cucumbers in open ground is possible only with water with a temperature of +18 C. Cold water adversely affects the root system, worsening its ability to absorb.

top dressing

After planting cucumbers in open ground, we must not forget about essential element care - top dressing. After all, such a culture is very demanding on the composition of the soil, therefore, in order to get a good harvest, it must be regularly fed.

The first time fertilizers are applied 3 weeks after planting cucumbers, and in the future, the culture is fed 1 time in 2 weeks. Used as fertilizer organic solutions or mineral mixtures.

Garter

To reduce the risk of fungal diseases in cucumbers and simplify the care of plantings in open ground, curly stems 30-35 cm long are tied to horizontal or vertical trellises. The structure is mounted as follows: near the garden bed, 2 pillars with a height of more than 2 m are driven into the ground, then a rope or wire is pulled between them with an interval of 20-25 cm.

In the photo, one of the possible garter options:

With cotton strips 2-4 cm wide, the stems are alternately tied to the trellis, letting them under the first or second leaf. The main thing to remember when doing a garter is - do not strongly pinch the stem and strongly tie knots.

You can read more about how to tie this culture in more detail in this material.

Video: how to tie cucumbers after planting.

Mulching, loosening, hilling

To prevent rapid drying of the soil and the growth of weeds, cucumbers are lined with straw, sawdust or hay. In addition, the mulch will keep them from contact with damp ground, and they will be less likely to get sick.

Landings that are not covered with mulching material should be regularly weeded from weeds. so that they do not weigh down the soil and do not take away nutrients from young plants.

Because cucumber roots are close to the surface, it is impossible to loosen the soil in the garden. All that can be done is to personally weed the bed from weeds that adversely affect the cultivated plant.

Since most roots lie at a depth of 5 cm, they have the ability to become bare. To prevent this from happening culture periodically spud. The first hilling is carried out when the stem reaches a length of 25 cm, and subsequent hilling as needed. This procedure not only helps protect the roots from the scorching sun, but also promotes the growth of new shoots. Moreover, the stems of hilled plants are less likely to suffer from fungal diseases, which significantly affects the yield.

Pinching and pinching

Pinching cucumbers after planting in the open field is a stage in cultivation, which is aimed at increasing yields. Thanks to pinching, the bush begins to actively form side shoots, on which there are many female flowers, on which ovaries are subsequently formed. Pinching is done after 5-6 leaves.

Read more about pinching cucumbers here!

Diseases and pests

Like all cultivated plants, cucumbers are susceptible to a number of diseases that are caused by improper care and fungi. Most often found on cucumbers:

Powdery mildew. Leaf blades are covered with small white spots, which gradually increase in size. At the peak of the development of the fungus, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Disease provocateurs - improper watering, overfeeding nitrogen fertilizers and high humidity.

For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to observe crop rotation, irrigation and fertilizer application. Immediately after infection, diseased bushes are sprinkled with ashes, and completely affected ones are carefully pulled out and destroyed.

Mosaic. The leaves are covered with green spots, and then deformed. Signs of the disease often appear on the fruit. In order to prevent planting material before planting must be disinfected. Sick bushes are dug up and destroyed.

Olive blotch. The leaves are covered with spots, which, when dried, are destroyed. Green or olive-colored ulcers appear on fruits and stems. The affected areas dry out and turn black over several days. Cause of the disease: high humidity and used for irrigation cold water. Immediately after the onset of spotting, the bushes are not watered for 5 days and treated with liquid or Oxychom.

Spider mite. Leaf plates are covered with white or yellow small patches that develop into large spots. The affected leaf turns yellow and dries up.

melon aphid- small insect pests that settle on the top of the plant. After some time, the affected area deforms and dries up. As aphids overwinter on weeds, the best prevention voracious insects - thorough cleaning. If the insects nevertheless attacked the plantings, you can gather them in the meadow ladybugs and run them into the garden.

As such, there are no secrets of planting cucumbers in open ground, but there are features and rules that must be taken into account. Thus, having followed all the recommendations, it is absolutely easy to properly plant a crop in open ground with seeds. To plant seeds, you do not need any superpowers: all you need to do is make a little effort, follow all the steps in the correct sequence, without neglecting the basic tips. The costs will pay off a hundredfold with a generous harvest.

Video: how to plant cucumbers in open ground with seeds.