Fence: the optimal distance between the supports. Fence posts made of corrugated board: materials used, what determines the distance and depth, installation steps At what distance are fence posts placed

27.05.2012 04:11

The most popular country fence today is chain link fence. Mass recognition and interest of summer residents
deserved not by accident. The main advantage is chain link fence price. Netting fence installation cost , in comparison with other types of fences, it differs at times, of course, in a smaller direction. The low price of a chain-link fence is due to two indicators: the price of the material and the cost of installation. The price of a chain-link mesh, or to be more precise, one roll today is from 280 to 550 rubles. The cheapest is a galvanized chain-link mesh with a small wire diameter, and the most expensive is a chain-link mesh in a polymer coating. The color of the polymer coating of the chain-link mesh practically does not affect the price of the goods. As for the installation of a chain-link fence, we can say - "a chain-link fence is easy to install with your own hands, without the use of special installation tools." ASK Egida will help you understand all the intricacies of this type of work.

Installation instructions for a chain-link fence

Before starting the installation of the fence, we mark the corner posts and the installation site of the entrance gate with a wicket. corner posts it is recommended to concrete, as the main force from the mesh tension will be distributed on them. Pillars for installing the chain-link mesh are used mainly of circular cross section, with a diameter of 38 to 60 mm, a length of 1.5 to 4 meters, depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the fence. The most common chain-link mesh roll height is from 1200 to 1500mm, and the length is from 10 to 15 meters. After installing the corner posts, we stretch the twine between them along the top and bottom. The lower twine is necessary for straight marking of the fence between the main corner posts. The upper twine will later serve to mark the height of the fence and horizontal alignment. The next step in installing a chain-link fence is to determine the equal distances between the posts and their number. Example:

• Let's say the distance between the corner posts is 36 meters. The distance between adjacent posts should be 2.5 meters.
• We divide the length of one side of the fence by the distance between adjacent posts 36: 2.5 = 14.4 We got the required number of posts - 14.5 pieces. Further, the distance between the corner pillars (36 m) is divided by the number of pillars received (14.5 pieces) 36:14.5 = 2.48 meters. We determined the distance through which it is necessary to install the pillars from each other. It was 2.48 meters. You can not catch millimeters, since visually they will not create problems with asymmetry on such a span.

Having determined the distances, we choose the method of installing the posts for the fence from the chain-link. There are three of them. The first is the simplest: driving a post into the ground. It is carried out using a unified device. If you hammer with an ordinary sledgehammer, then there is every chance of crushing the pipe heads and ruining the presentation of the future fence. Be careful. The next type of installation of the fence pipe is layered crushed stone with tamping. Refers to the cheapest and at the same time reliable installation method. This type of installation completely eliminates winter heaving and squeezing the post out of the ground. The last type of installation includes the two previous methods, only along with them is the process of concreting, both partial, only the upper part of the column, and complete to the depth of freezing of the soil.

Well, here the pillars are set, and it's time to perform netting net installation. Installation of the chain-link mesh begins with the deployment of mesh rolls along the installed poles. Next, you need to connect the edges of adjacent rolls together so that you get a single grid equal to the length of one side of the site. The binding of the ends of adjacent rolls is carried out as follows: it is necessary to unscrew the outermost wire from the end of one roll, then both ends of adjacent rolls are aligned with each other, and the unscrewed wire is screwed back, connecting both ends to each other. In this way, all other rolls are connected to each other.

After netting netting proceed to the final stage
installation of a fence, suspension of a grid on the mounted columns. Here you will need an assistant, pulling the chain-link mesh alone is a very tedious task. Two people lift the net from the ground and lean it against the posts. If there are pre-prepared mustaches on the poles, then the chain-link mesh is put on them. If there are no such mustaches, then the chain-link mesh is fixed to the first post using metal clamps or plastic ties. Then one person goes ahead and lifts the net, and the second one stretches it and fixes it on the pole with clamps. Thus, the entire perimeter is posted. In order to avoid sagging of the wire in the future, especially in winter, when the mesh is covered with wet snow, and it sags under its weight, it is necessary to pass steel wire along the top of the mesh fence. It is passed between the upper cells of the grid along the entire perimeter of the fence. After installing it, you will forget about the problems associated with the sag of the fence. Article prepared by the company

Fences are of various types - from modern fences with horizontal metal picket fences, which can be ordered on the website zabor2000.ru, to brick or chain-link fences. The choice always remains with the owner of the summer cottage, but with its independent installation or construction, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, and most importantly, the distance between the pillars in the 1st span. The stability, reliability and durability of the entire structure depends on this.

The length of the span between the supports is selected depending on the type of fence. Enclosing structures made of the following materials are in the greatest demand:

• brick (stone);
• corrugated board;
• wood;
• Rabitz.

Brickwork

When building a fence made of brick or stone, the pillars are usually made of a similar material or reinforced concrete. The distance between the pillars is mainly provided within 2.5-3.5 m. There are spans up to 6 m, when the total length of the fence is too large, and the finances for the purchase of building materials are limited. In this case, in order to increase the strength characteristics, it is recommended to additionally reinforce the structure - in the seams between the rows of bricks (for their entire length), additionally lay steel wire with a cross section of 4-6 mm. It is more expedient to reinforce every 2-3 rows.

There are many design options for brick fences - with forged sections, inserts from corrugated board, wood, mesh, etc. But this should in no way be reflected in the length of the span between the bearing supports - it should be no more than 3.5 m.

Installation of pillars for the installation of a fence made of corrugated board, boards and chain-link mesh

It is advisable to use a profile pipe with a section of 40 × 20 or 40 × 40 mm as posts for fences made of these materials. It is allowed to use a round pipe with a diameter of 40 mm or a corner No. 63.

For the installation of supports, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a depth of 500-600 mm and a width of 300-400 mm, place a prepared pole in it and hammer it into the ground a little. Compact to a height of 100-200 mm with dump slag and pour the base with concrete to the level with the ground. This will significantly increase the rigidity of the fence.

When creating a fence between the pillars, it is necessary to observe a distance of 2-3 m. These are the optimal values, which ensure high structural strength and minimal labor intensity of the process. An increase in the step leads to a decrease in the reliability of the fence, its increased tendency to deformation, and as a result, unjustified financial costs for restoration.

Properly installed high-quality poles are the key to the durability and steadfastness of any fence. Supports made of any material: wood, metal, concrete, when properly calculated and professionally installed, are able to withstand the heaviest loads: in summer - wind, in winter - frost heaving forces. For the whole range of fences: from profiled sheet, board, mesh, monolithic concrete and even rare polycarbonate and triplex, only a few types of supports are used, on which the strength, reliability and stability of the fence depend.

Proper installation of pillars is the key to the durability of the fence.

What types of pillars are most commonly used in private housing construction? Of course,

• wooden poles,
• metal round pipes,
• profiled pipes of different sections,
• screw supports,
• concrete,
• brick pillars with a core inside.

  Wooden fence.

Many of their installation options -

• step between pillars
• deepening depth,
• method of anchoring in the soil

depend on the type of fence, the depth of soil freezing, the level of groundwater. How to properly install the poles so that the fence stands for a long time?

Supports from a round pipe for a fence from a professional flooring.

• 1 Machining supports
• 2 How to bury a post deep
• 3 How to find out the depth of soil freezing
• 4 How far apart should the posts be?

Support processing

Supports are a very important part of the fence structure, which is no less than the fill material exposed to rain, snow, hail, ultraviolet and wind. The underground part of the support is also affected by aggressive ground moisture with alkalis and acids dissolved in it, and the buoyancy forces are direct and tangential, which appear under the action of frost heaving. Therefore, any supports buried in the ground, except, perhaps, screw ones, must be treated with special equipment.

Bituminous varnish.

To protect wooden supports, antiseptic impregnations are used, the bottom of the column is treated with bituminous mastic, working off or creosote, roofing felt cups are arranged in the hole, and even the bottom of the column is simply wrapped with dense polyethylene. An effective method of installing wooden supports downwards with conductive channels is that, according to the law of osmosis, they do not draw moisture inside.

Impregnation of a wooden pole.

The bottom of metal supports and recessed fittings must be treated with an anti-corrosion primer and painted. Particular attention on all types of poles should be paid to the border of the ground part of the pole and the buried part - as the most susceptible to corrosion processes, it is in this place that the pole breaks with insufficient processing.

Priming of a metal support.

How to bury a post deep

The depth of digging supports depends on the type of soil and the level of groundwater in each particular area. Moreover, even within the perimeter of one fence, the groundwater level can change. In this case, the fence will have to be placed either on screw supports or pouring a shallow strip foundation. The pressure force from the ground in winter will be accepted and evenly distributed by the concrete tape. It is noteworthy that the force of frost heaving pressure also depends on the depth of the snow cover in the area. That is, the supports located near the paths being cleared of snow will be squeezed out faster than the pillars covered with snow.

Pouring the foundation for the fence.

During the construction of light and temporary fences from a chain-link mesh or a picket fence, the supports are shallow - at 0.7-0.8 m, sometimes they are installed by hammering. Often in the spring, one can observe partially left the ground or lopsided poles, which the owners of the plots again dig into place with a sledgehammer.

Pillars will have to be driven in annually if they are not deep enough.

For more serious fences - fences made of corrugated board, wooden fences, poles with a metal core, it is necessary to deepen the supports below the freezing depth of the soil by 20 cm. Buoyant forces from below do not act on a pole installed at such a depth - they simply do not exist there, but only tangential forces act . If the supports are smooth, located in a roofing glass, polyethylene or covered with crushed stone, the tangential forces will not have any effect on the post. In no case should you make a concrete blotch around a support driven in or sprinkled with rubble. During winter heaving, the earth, bound by frost with concrete, will pull the pillar out of the ground.

If the soil is very heaving or it is not possible to deepen the support so much, a metal heel or 2 reinforcement bars crosswise is welded onto its bottom. They will keep the post from being pulled out of the ground.

Piles TISE.

How to find out the depth of soil freezing

The normative depth of soil freezing is given in SNIPs by region. In fact, it will have to be recognized independently at each site. The best source of information is neighbors with fences, foundations or water wells already installed. For more comprehensive information, you can dig a hole 2-2.5 m deep.

Normative freezing depth.

PIP depends on 3 main factors:

How far apart should the posts be?

When designing a fence, the question arises: how far apart should the posts be placed. Pillars, like solid fences, are constantly exposed to wind loads. There is no region where a storm with a wind speed of 20 m/s did not occur at least once a year. Mesh fences, picket fences, lattice and forged fences are exposed to less wind load. The owners of fences made of corrugated board, solid wooden fences will have to pay close attention to the calculations for the wind load.

A fence made of corrugated board slanting from the wind.

The fence in the summer is affected by the forces of weight and wind forces. The force of the weight acts along the axis of the column without causing a bending moment. The wind blows across the fence and causes a significant load, many times greater than the load of its own weight. Therefore, a bending moment acts on the support, which has a maximum application point at the point where the column leaves the ground.

A strong wind can knock down a fence.

For solid fences, the best distance between the posts is a distance of 2 meters. If a fence is made from a chain-link mesh, then the supports will not be affected by the wind load, but by the mesh compression force. Supports for chain-link fencing are recommended to be placed at a distance of no more than 2-2.5 m from each other, and to maintain it, arrange logs or stretch a supporting wire. Low windage and no compression force on the fence supports made of welded mesh - they can be placed at a distance of 3 to 6 m from each other.

The chain-link fence has a low windage.

If the distance between the supports depends on the length of the fence sections and it is impossible to change it, the stability of the pillars will have to be adjusted only by the depth and strength of the pillar itself. To compensate for the load on the posts, the depth of their laying should be at least equal to the height of the fence, plus another 10 cm.

The stability of the sectional fence will have to be adjusted by the installation depth of the supports and their strength characteristics.

The greater the distance between the posts and the longer the sections, as well as the higher the fence, the stronger the pipe should be chosen. For example, for a corrugated fence with a section length of 2 m and a height of 2 m, a round pipe with a section of 76 mm and a pipe wall thickness of 4 mm or a square pipe with a section of 60 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm is suitable. With an increase in the length of the section to 2.5 m, these parameters must be recalculated according to the formulas for calculating the strength of the support column - you will need a round pipe with a cross section of 89 mm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm and a square pipe with a cross section of 80 mm, wall thickness of 3 mm.

The sellers favorite pipe with a wall thickness of 2 mm is not suitable for fence posts.

When calculating the wind load, you need to consider in which area the fence is placed. It will be necessary to increase the strength of the fence with additional lags or jibs if the fence passes through a territory blown by all winds. If the fence passes through the forest, gardens or on the territory of a cottage village with low-rise buildings, the influence of winds will be reduced.

One of the obvious advantages of fences made of such material as a profiled sheet is that it is quite possible to build these fences with your own hands, without resorting to the help of expensive construction teams. The work is quite simple, having studied the instructions, in fact, any person who is familiar with the tool firsthand will surely be able to cope. But there are also relevant nuances. For example, one of the key problems is the correct installation of poles. How to deal with this task effectively? What should be the distance between the fence posts from corrugated board, and how to calculate it correctly? After all, this is the main parameter that is designed to ensure the strength and durability of the structure. After all, even the most reliable material will not withstand the onslaught of weather conditions or accidental mechanical shock if it is not securely fixed with poles. And they, in turn, will not transfer the load when they are not installed according to the rules.

The basis of every "self-respecting" fence is poles with lags. And their installation is the most time-consuming component of the whole work. Of course, the maximum possible distance between corrugated fence posts significantly reduces the overall cost and saves money. But too long runs make it difficult to install the profiled sheet and "undermine" the strength of the structure. The optimal golden mean will be - about two and a half meters, three. This figure can vary in one direction or another, but, as a rule, no more than 3. Also, the gaps between the supports directly depend on the materials from which the pillars themselves are made, and on the method of installation (we will talk about these two nuances a little lower). In addition, the stronger the supports are rooted, the longer the distance between them can be. And when they build a fence with a height of more than 2.5 meters, then vice versa - shorter. The structures with brick pillars have the greatest strength. Used as elements and metal pipes, and profiles, wooden and asbestos products. So for a builder, the choice is quite large. It is important to follow some marking rules with installation, and an important safety feature of a home or site is at your service.

An example of marking posts for a fence from a profiled sheet

Pillars - the basis of the fence

In general, the structure on which the profiled sheet is attached consists of:

• The main supporting elements that are installed at the corners of the site and on the sides of the gate. Usually these pillars are slightly thicker, as they experience increased loads.
• Intermediate support elements. Often, for economic reasons, they are chosen thinner, because they are less loaded.
• Raskosov. These elements are used to level the supports when the soil parameters do not allow concreting with proper efficiency.
• Horizontal joists. They are constructed from beams, or from profiles of a small section (30x30, 20x40 millimeters).

Fence design drawing

All elements must be rigidly interconnected. For this, both welding and mechanical connectors are used. How to choose the right supports, because the modern market provides products of various types?

A matter of choice

Which of the supports are usually used for fences from profiled sheets? The following types are widely used:

• metal;
• wooden;
• profile;
• reinforced concrete;
• with brick pillars;
• asbestos-cement.

Their length can be determined depending on the height of the canvas (usually selected individually). Poles usually get a little longer than the chosen height (per meter). The upper sections, if the supports are hollow inside, are welded, sealed, a plug is installed - depending on what material they are made of. This prevents liquid from getting inside the racks.

Metal

This is the most common material for fence posts. Such supports are made from segments of a round or profiled pipe with rather thick walls (thickness not less than 2 millimeters, for high structures - up to 3). The second option is more technically durable, and it looks much more presentable and modern. The length of the parts depends directly on the height of the fence. Deepening into the soil - from a meter (on dense soils) to one and a half. The metal must be subjected to additional anti-corrosion treatment. And the upper segment of the support must be updated annually, covering it with protective compounds (for example, paint or varnish). The profile cut should be welded or an appropriate plug should be placed to prevent water from entering the product.

Profile posts for a profiled fence

Wood

This pole material is used in temporary structures. Wooden supports, of course, are inferior in their characteristics to the same metal or brick ones. But, when it comes to savings, they are applicable quite often. Usually, these are conifers: pine and spruce. The material itself is chosen with a sufficient cross section and without large knots and cracks, even. Do not forget to treat the supports with an antiseptic - from pests. And grease the lower part with mastic, which prevents the penetration of moisture.

An example of the basis for a brick pillar

Concrete and brick

Factory-made concrete structures are an alternative to the above supports. The product is made of sand, cement, building gravel. The pillar itself is divided into 2 sections: the lower one is introduced into the soil (0.8 - 1.2 meters), and the upper one is equipped with grooves for attaching the lag. Such products have reduced deformation from the effects of windage. As an option: with brick pillars, as well as in combination - brickwork and a round pipe. This method is excellent in terms of strength and aesthetic appearance, but the construction of a structure “on a brick” will require more significant costs and additional work.

Asbestos-cement pipes

Supports made of this material still hold a fairly strong position. After all, asbestos-cement pipes coated with a special composition can stand for decades, almost without requiring attention - painting, processing! Low cost, resistance to moisture, to pests - an excellent budget option. But each material has its drawbacks. There are also asbestos-cement products. They are fragile, which makes them difficult to transport. The pipe is heavy, voluminous, which makes installation difficult. It is also necessary to prevent liquids from getting inside the product: when they freeze, they will expand, and the column may crack.

Asbestos-cement pipes for supports

Top pipe plug option

Work order

Let's say you have decided on the choice of supports, and now you need to proceed directly to the installation. The easiest option is concreting (unless it is a short-term construction). Here is a sample work plan step by step.

1. We start by marking the area to be fenced. According to the terrain, we mark the perimeter with a measuring cord (we also use wooden or metal pegs).
2. Next, we proceed to the marking, actually under the supports. Optimal for fences made of corrugated board, according to many craftsmen, is a distance of 2.5-3 meters - from pole to pole. This is directly related to the nuance that the profile used for mounting the lag horizontally on the structure is six meters long. Thus, when marking spans of a specified length, it is easier to join the logs.

Drilling holes for supports

1. At the marked points, using a drill (see photo), we make holes in the soil. The diameter of the holes for the pillars should be at least one hundred millimeters larger than that of the pillars.
2. Pour crushed stone into the drilled holes. We compact with a rammer. We put each element separately, aligning it with a plumb line / level.
3. We fall asleep on top of the gravel (up to half), and pour the cement solution.
4. We fix the pillars with boards or braces. When the solution hardens completely, remove the fixation. Only then can the lags be fixed.

Please note that the installation of corrugated fence posts according to the rules is an indispensable condition, it determines the durability of the structure, its strength. Experts advise at this stage not to rush, but to do everything thoughtfully - as described in the instructions. It’s better to spend a little extra time than to rebuild the “collapsed” fence later!

Be sure to watch the video:

The distance between the fence posts made of corrugated board, picket fence, mesh or other materials is the main parameter that ensures the strength and durability of the entire structure. Even reliable fencing materials will not withstand the onslaught of bad weather with strong winds, or accidental mechanical shock, if they are not securely fastened to the fence posts. And the fence posts will not withstand the loads if they are not installed correctly.

You can protect yourself from prying eyes or limit the penetration of people and animals into the territory by properly installing the fence.

A fence for a site can tell a lot about the owner. Both positive information about his good taste, and very undesirable information about the possibilities for illegal entry.

Types of fences

• Wooden fence. Positive qualities - the availability of material, low cost and speed of construction. Negative properties - fragility, the need for constant care in the form of tinting, unreliability. Such a fence can itself squint from time to time or be easily damaged. Various types of timber or a metal pipe are used as poles and guides for fixing the fence-lag web. The distance between the fence posts in this case depends on the thickness of the supports and on the height and weight of the canvas boards. A kind of wooden fence, a picket fence, is good only as a separator between neighbors' plots, as an external fence it is only suitable as the upper part of a fence with a brick or concrete base.

If you are attracted by the grace and lightness of the fence, but there is no desire to constantly tint and repair it, it makes sense to pay attention to. This is a material that is gaining popularity, easy to install, combining all the advantages of the lightness of a wooden picket fence, and the strength and durability of metal. To protect against corrosion, the metal fence can be galvanized or powder-coated.

Fence from ready concrete sections. A clear advantage is durability and strength. Negative properties - the impossibility of erection without construction equipment, the need for a serious foundation for the installation of powerful concrete pillars, high cost, boring exterior.

The distance between the posts in the mesh fence is not so critical, since non-solid fences are less susceptible to windage. In this case, more attention should be paid to the weight of one section, if the canvas is framed, or the weight of the gap between the posts. It should be remembered that in this design of the fence there are no transverse logs and the entire load falls on the posts. The weight per square meter of the mesh, depending on its type, is usually indicated by the manufacturer. The metal pipes of the supports should be buried at least 1.0 m if they are installed not in foundation blocks, but directly into the ground. The hole under the support from further subsidence should be compacted with a layer of rubble.




The distance between the fence posts from the chain-link mesh should not be more than 2 meters, since it is difficult to stretch the mesh, and the fasteners may not support the weight of the material, which will lead to the mesh lagging behind the posts and sagging.

Brick pillars - reliable and beautiful

Durable and beautiful pillars made of brick or stone will decorate any fence. Over time, the canvases between them can be replaced with any material you like, while the supports themselves will last a very long time and will invariably decorate the entire hedge structure.

Without support on the foundation, a brick pillar, despite its solid weight, will not stand for a long time.

The choice of the type of foundation depends on what material the filling will be from. For light spans, a columnar foundation is suitable for each support. The depth of penetration should be determined taking into account wind loads and winter heaving, especially for areas with high groundwater. The distance between the brick pillars of the corrugated fence, due to the reliability of the supports, can be over 3 m.

The supporting structure for a brick pillar will be internal reinforcement with a steel pipe or reinforcing cage.



Pillar foundation.

If a completely brick fence is planned, a fence made of decorative fence blocks cast from concrete or a heavy forged fence, a strip foundation will be required.




The erection of brick pillars should begin after the concrete of the foundations has gained sufficient density, no less than two weeks in the summer and four in the autumn - winter. Concrete work must be carried out at positive air temperature.

Typically, fence posts are made in 1.5 or 2 bricks, with dimensions of 380x380 mm and 510x510 mm in cross section, up to 3 m high. More powerful pillars usually frame the gate.




The masonry is carried out with an offset (dressing) in such a way that the vertical seam of the lower row is half overlapped by the body of the upper brick. Seam width - 8-10mm. For masonry, a cement-sand mortar with a ratio of 1: 5 is used. Cement - high grade, not less than M400.

For the top of the column, a concrete or metal cap should be provided with waterproofing of the top row of bricks. This will protect the interior from destruction by precipitation.

For example, for a pole 2.5 meters high, you will need:

• 2.5m / (65mm (brick height) + 10mm (masonry joint)) x 4 = 133 pcs.

  Up to 10% per battle should be added to the required amount.

During the laying process, you should carefully control:

Verticality. Through several rows of bricks with a plumb line or level, otherwise minor deviations when laying a row of bricks can lead to an increase in overall dimensions or an inclination of the surface to either side;