How to increase the usable area during the reconstruction of the house - we build on the attic. All about the construction of an attic with your own hands How does the construction of an attic roof begin

The attic structure of the attic allows not only to increase the living area of \u200b\u200bthe house, but also to make the structure unusual and beautiful. Moreover, a building with this type of roof can be made in almost any style. A mansard-type roof, the design options of which can be very different, is found both in urban areas and in rural areas. Let's consider how to create such a structure on our own, and find out what its features are.

Mansard roof - options

Such a roof has a special slope design, usually consisting of an upper sloping part and a steeper lower one. Thanks to this shape, a fairly spacious room appears inside, which can be used as an attic or even turn into a very cozy living room.

The history of attics began in the 17th century, such a roof structure was invented by the architect Francois Mansart - such a roof was named after his name. But this Frenchman was far from the first to implement the idea of \u200b\u200beconomical use of the attic floor of a house. The first mansard roof was built by Pierre Lescaut, also a Frenchman, who worked on the construction of such famous buildings as the Louvre and Notre Dame de Paris.

On a note! In the nineteenth century, poor people usually lived on the attic floors, but now this floor may appear in housing and quite wealthy.

Nowadays, attics are quite often constructed during the construction of country houses or small two-story cottages, but the idea may well be realized when creating other types of buildings. The attic has a number of advantages:

• building a house with an attic is cheaper than with two full floors and a roof;
• foundation costs for the construction of such a structure are also reduced;
• the attic is able to significantly increase the living area of \u200b\u200bany structure;
• it gives the house an unusual and beautiful look;
• it is not difficult to build a structure, the work can be completed quite quickly;
• the attic is always associated with comfort;
• a house with an attic is warmer by reducing heat loss through the roof.

But attics have several disadvantages as well. An attic space of this type has sloped ceilings, which makes the height of the walls small, which makes it difficult to choose furniture. Also, the roof should be well mounted so as not to leak and not release heat from the house - you will have to spend money on good hydro and thermal insulation materials. Yes, and building attics is still more difficult than, for example, a conventional gable roof.

Design features

The attic is a universal element. It was used both for ordinary houses and for the construction of country houses, often this type of attic space was chosen even for the construction of palaces. Of course, it could decorate workshops, commercial buildings, etc. And despite the fact that different materials were used for its construction, different styles were chosen, the attic still remained an attic - it has certain design features.

So, this building can have a different geometric shape - triangular, broken line, have symmetrical or, conversely, geometrically complex and non-standard slopes. It can be located both over the entire width of the structure, and only on one side of it relative to the longitudinal axis.

Timber prices

On a note! If the roof is broken, then the lower part will have very steep slopes with an angle of inclination of about 60-70 degrees, and on the top, the slopes, on the contrary, will be gentle (about 15-30 degrees).

But whatever the attic, it will be within the walls of the main building. The attic may be somewhat wider relative to the outer walls, but then it relies on the outlets of the ceilings. If the overhang is large, then you will have to install additional supports (for example, columns, walls, etc.).

The height of the attic roof cannot be less than 2.5 m, otherwise it will not work to make a spacious room under it. Windows, which must also be provided here, will be manufactured using special technologies using tempered durable glass and a reliable frame. They will cost several times more than usual. And the supporting structures can be made of reinforced concrete, metal or wood. But in the case of the latter, it is important to carefully consider fire safety measures.

The mansard roof is a multi-layer structure, which complicates installation. It can be fully insulated or only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe living room - where there is heating. But in any case, the design of the attic implies the presence of rafters, a ridge, directly roofing material, heat and waterproofing, a vapor barrier layer. The interfloor overlap will act as a base under the roof.

The roof rafters must have good load-bearing capacity. The section of the materials used will depend on the angle of the roof slope and cannot be less than 5x15 cm at a step of 100 cm.If the slope angle is 45 degrees, then a step of 140 cm is maintained.

Attention! In areas where snowfalls are frequent and the amount of precipitation is high, it is recommended to install rafters in increments of no more than 80 cm.

If the attic is to be used as a living space, then it is important to consider that in this case there is a risk of a large amount of condensation forming under the roof. Because of this, foci of mold may appear inside the structure, fungus may develop, etc. The presence of a large amount of moisture will negatively affect the insulating properties of the material. That is why it is important to follow all the rules for installing the attic roof, and the thermal insulation material must be reliably protected from moisture not only from the outside, but also from the inside, that is, a layer of vapor barrier material is also located on this side.

Important! Do not forget about creating roof vents that allow air to circulate calmly inside the roof structure and help remove condensation.

Types of mansard roofs

There are 4 main types of attic roofs, which differ from each other in design features. They can be divided into single-level and two-level. The first ones are the simplest in execution, usually combined with a sloping or gable roof with a slope angle of 35-45 degrees. The latter involve the arrangement of two rooms at different levels. A mixed support system is used here.

On a note! When building an attic under a gable roof, the height of the walls can be no more than 1.5 m, followed by sloped ceilings. With a broken roof, the ceiling height around the perimeter of the walls is up to 2.5 m.

When building a house, you can dwell on one of the types of attics - a single-level attic when arranging a gable roof, single-level with a broken roof, with outboard consoles, or a two-level with a special mixed type of supports.

Table. The main types of attics.

The mansard roof can also have a balcony. It is created on the principle of building a window. The main thing is that the bearing capacity of the walls allows you to equip it. By the way, columns can also support the balcony, but in this case it is built above the entrance.

Types of rafters for attics

Roof trusses can be of two types - and layered. You will have to choose between them depending on the method of attachment to the walls of the house. Hangers are simpler and are usually used for homes that do not have an average load-bearing wall. The rafters rest only on the main walls of the house, without intermediate supports. The width of the span between the walls cannot be large - usually it does not exceed 6 m. If the span is larger (over 9 m), then you will need to arrange struts, attendants.

Slab rafters are usually used to create houses with two spans, that is, those that have a load-bearing wall in the middle. In this case, the rafters have three points of support - this wall itself, as well as the main ones along the perimeter of the house.

Material for the manufacture of rafter system

Rafters can be made of metal, reinforced concrete or wood. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Rafters made of wood are environmentally friendly, they are easy to use, easily adjusted to the desired size. But wooden structures are afraid of excess moisture and are susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew on them.

On a note! Before construction, wooden materials are recommended to be treated with protective compounds that will extend their service life.

Metal and reinforced concrete structures can not be covered with such compounds - fungus and mold do not appear on them. Due to this, they are considered more reliable and durable. But the main disadvantage is that, if necessary, it will be difficult to adjust them to the required dimensions on the spot, and the slightest mistake in the calculations can lead to the roof being skewed. Also, a master working with reinforced concrete or metal rafters may encounter other difficulties - this is a large mass of products, which forces the use of special equipment even for lifting elements.

Difficulties and features of the arrangement of the attic roof

When designing and building a mansard roof, a number of design features should be taken into account, based on which a number of work rules are formed. For example, the Mauerlat must be anchored very securely with anchor bolts. It is he who will experience the maximum load, which means he will hold the entire roof on him. Anchors are additionally recommended to be bricked up with a cement mixture if the main walls of the house are made of stone, brick and other similar materials.

It is also important to remember the correct construction and roof layers. For example, mansard roofs cannot be covered with metal roofing materials. They get very hot and it will be too hot on the upper floor in summer, there can be no question of any comfort of living. It is not recommended to use roofing material as a waterproofing material - when heated, it begins to smell specifically. It is best to cover the mansard roof with slate or soft tiles. For thermal insulation, it is usually recommended to purchase mineral wool, which is laid with a waterproofing film on both sides.

A modern mansard roof is a great opportunity to significantly expand the living space of your home without unnecessary hassle. But, if you involve builders in the work, then this can cost a pretty penny. It is quite understandable that each of us thought about the question of whether it is possible to do everything on our own without experience. We assure you that a mansard roof with your own hands is more than real. We offer you a comprehensive instruction.

Currently, the best option is a broken attic. It is quite spacious and can really become a full-fledged living space with a large area. Naturally, this requires accurate calculations.

Building a mansard roof will require you to consider many factors before. Let's list the main ones.

DIY video about the mansard roof

It is quite understandable that the smaller the angle of inclination, the more usable space there will be in your attic. But it is not always necessary to strive for the most shallow placement. Let's list some features of the choice:

• If your house is located in an area with a temperate climate, where the weather is often windy, and snow is rare, then you can safely make a roof with a small slope;
• If snowfalls and showers are frequent in your area, you should refuse a flat roof;
• Do not forget that you need to take care of high-quality heat, sound and waterproofing. The attic is a living space like the rest of the rooms in your house;
• The best roofing materials are shingles or slate. Many people mistakenly put a metal covering, but with the arrival of cold weather they face problems of heat conservation in the attic. Please note that the materials must be fire and moisture resistant. The roof is always made of timber. For the best preservation, it is recommended to treat all such surfaces with an antifungal solution;
• An outdoor attic staircase will significantly save space in the house. An internal staircase is a much more convenient option, but it also takes up a lot of space. Great if you take care of installing a ceiling ladder. She practically does not take up space. As an alternative, you can install a spiral staircase, but its convenience is often questioned.

An outdoor attic staircase will significantly save space in the house

• First, you need wooden beams 10x10 cm in cross section. They are applied over the waterproofing. The best material for her is roofing felt or roofing felt, which is sold in rolls. It is quite convenient to work with them and you will not need any additional skills. If your ceiling is also made of wood, then there is no need to lay an additional beam under the main beams.
• The next step is to install the racks on the beams. The same beam with a section of 10x10 cm will suit you. These racks are a kind of skeleton of the walls of your attic. In order for them to fully perform their functions, they must be placed no further than two meters from each other. Make sure that each of them is perfectly level. We recommend checking each one with the level and, if necessary, sawing in the right places. Once the racks are installed, they must be sheathed on both sides. For the inside, a great option is drywall or ordinary plywood, for the outside, a slab. It is important not to forget at this stage to lay the insulation between the racks. Each post is individually secured with spikes and brackets. To prevent them from tilting, we recommend fixing them properly with temporary braces.
• Next, lay the top bar. Its cross section should be the same as in the previous paragraphs. You can fix it as you like. But take care that the beams are held tight and secure.

Each post is individually secured with spikes and brackets

• Now you need to install the Mauerlat. This is a kind of support for the rafter leg, which is located at the bottom of the structure. For a Mauerlat, you will need a 40x40 cm bar or a board with the same thickness. Thanks to the Mauerlat, a high strength of fastening the roof rafters to the walls will be ensured. It allows the weight of the roof to be redirected directly onto the walls. More than 40 cm section is optional. All the same, the Mauerlat lies directly on the wall and the load on it is relatively small. Just do not forget to put waterproofing under it, otherwise over time it will begin to rot.
• A well-fixed Mauerlat protects your roof from the effects of wind, snow mass in winter and other loads. Therefore, make sure that it is secured carefully. For this, you can use a wire with a diameter of up to 5 mm. It is best to choose an annealed wire, which is just for strapping. To make the walls more durable, the wire is embedded directly into them.
• Now you need to install the rafter legs. Make markings on the rafter frame and Mauerlat in the places where the rafters will be installed. Usually the step is 1-1.2 m. For the rafters, a board with a section of 4-5 cm and a width of 15 cm is suitable for you. Choose only perfectly flat boards. It is better to overpay a little money for them, but be sure that a living attic with your own hands will not cause you to collapse the attic roof.

For rafters, a board with a section of 4-5 cm and a width of 15 cm is suitable for you

• The rafter legs should rest on the ridge beam. If your attic has a large area, then the weight of its roof will be large. Therefore, the beam is an indispensable structural element. It is not needed only if the rafter length is less than eight meters. In this case, you can do with the usual stretch marks.
• Installation of fillies. Produce it in the same way as the rafters. To simplify the process, start with the two outermost ones, pull the twine between them and align with it when installing the next ones.
• Now you need to nail a hem board to the filly. It will become an obstacle to wind and almost any precipitation.
• Before making a mansard roof, you must think about where the windows will be installed. Remember that their area should occupy at least 12-13% of the area of \u200b\u200bthe side walls. Where you decide to put windows, you need to strengthen the rafters. To do this, install the crossbars. They will take on the role of the lower and upper parts of the opening, where the window frame will be installed and fastened.

Before making a mansard roof, you must consider where the windows will be installed.

When the previous ten points have been completed, you need to carefully re-check everything that has been done. Already at this stage, you will understand how to make a roof with an attic without any problems, but you always need to be reinsured. Especially if this is your first time doing it.

Carefully walk the level over all the rafters and beams, check if they really hold tightly and securely, if there is insulation everywhere, if you need to modify problem areas. It will be better if you ask one of the more experienced builders to evaluate with a trained eye whether everything is really done as it should. Remember that the roof in your home must be safe and strong. But if everything is fine and the structure is held securely, you can proceed to further work:

• You have already created the skeleton of the roof. Now you need to nail the battens to the rafters. The pitch depends on what kind of roofing material you choose for your roof.
• When the crate is installed, a hydro-barrier must be installed on it. In most cases, plain plastic wrap works best for this. It is inexpensive, qualitatively protects the attic from moisture ingress and is easily attached with construction brackets. The main thing to remember is that the layers of the film must be laid from bottom to top with overlap of layers on top of each other.
• A heat-insulating layer must be placed on top of the film. One of the best materials for this purpose is rock wool. It is lightweight, keeps heat well and is completely safe for your health, unlike many other heat-insulating materials. Plus, it effectively prevents the spread of rodents in your home.

A thermal insulation layer must be placed on top of the film

• When you get to the roof, proceed in the same way as with plastic wrap. The roofing ball also rests from bottom to top, and the elements overlap. Make sure that in those places where there is a break in the roof, the upper ball of the roof protrudes above the lower one. It is very important. Otherwise, with the slightest rain, your roof will leak, and the structure will gradually rot.
• The installation of the ridge should be done in such a way that its design completely excludes the possibility of precipitation falling under the roof of your roof.

Completion of installation

The main part of the work has come to an end. It is recommended to make mansard roofs multi-layer so that they provide the best heat, noise and waterproofing of the entire attic. Also, do not forget that the attic must "breathe". Modern windows and doors are an integral part of any such roof.

If you have not completely decided on the installation of the stairs, then first it is better to install an external one. It will be cheaper and easier this way. In any case, if you feel that this option does not suit you, it will be possible to make a staircase indoors whenever you want, sacrificing space in the house.

Video about a gable roof

Now you know how to build a mansard roof according to all the rules and not resort to the help of an expensive team of builders. Please be patient, select quality materials and tools, and then follow our instructions. Good luck!

It is more rational to use the attic space if you equip living rooms there, which are called the attic.

The attic floor can occupy the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe house or only part of it (or garage). Sometimes the attic floor serves as a replacement for the second floor.

What is an attic floor?

To put it simply - living room (s) in the attic (i.e. attic-type room)

According to construction terminology, an attic (or attic floor) is a dwelling located on the top floor of a house with an attic roof (i.e. the attic facade is partially or completely limited by the roof surfaces).

The difference between the attic and the second floor - comparative characteristics

If you try to compare which is better, the attic or the second floor, you get something like the following picture.

However, it should be noted that there are cases when it is impossible to build an attic floor. For example:

• load-bearing walls and foundations may not withstand the additional load;

• the walls are constructed of porous materials that can collapse.

• small dimensions of the house. With a mandatory height of 2.3 m (according to sanitary standards, SNiP is limited to 1.5 m), it is difficult to equip a full-fledged living room with a small surface area. If the width of the house is less than 5 m. it makes no sense to build an attic. The resulting area will be insignificant, and the costs for it are high.

Is an attic considered a second floor?

According to urban planning standards, the superstructure of the attic does not affect the number of storeys in the building. That is, a private house in which the second attic floor is arranged is (is) a one-story house.

Documentation governing the calculation and construction of the second floor of the attic type.

The superstructure of the attic floor is governed by the provisions of the following regulatory documents:

1. SNiP 2.08.01-89 "Residential buildings";
2. SNiP II-3-79 "Construction heat engineering" (standardizes the arrangement of enclosing structures, including the roof);
3. SNiP 23-05-95 "Natural and artificial lighting";
4. SNiP 21-01-97 "Fire safety of buildings and structures";
5. SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and Impacts";
6. sanitary and hygienic standards.

Types and types of attic floors - dimensions and dimensions of the attic

The height of the attic floor determines its type (view):

• full floor. Vertical wall above 1.5 m;
• attic. The height of the smaller wall is in the range from 0.8 to 1.5 m;
• half-attic. Wall height less than 0.8 m.

Depending on the needs of the residents, you can arrange rooms on the attic floors for various functional purposes.

But, most often there are bedrooms and lounges.

If the requirement for a building height of 2.3 m is met, then according to the standards prescribed in the SNiP, the attic floor area cannot be less than 16 sq. In this case, the bedroom must be at least 7 sq.

If the height of the walls of the attic floor exceeds the value of 2.3 m, then the construction of a bedroom of a smaller area is allowed. The rationale for reducing the area is the large total cubic capacity (volume) of the room.

Armed with this theory, you can start building an attic floor with your own hands. Construction is not troublesome if there are detailed step-by-step instructions.

Construction of an attic floor (attic)

Before starting construction, you need to create a project for the attic floor. The project can be done independently or contact professionals.

Note that building an attic with your own hands is quite within the power of everyone. But it is rather difficult to take into account all the determining factors and calculate the loads without special knowledge.

First, let's find out what affects the attic project.

It is quite difficult to choose the appearance of the attic roof, because this is influenced by a number of factors:

• visual effect. First of all, subjective feelings are taken into account. The final choice may fall on another model, but the starting point is here;

• living space. The rafter system of the gable roof "steals" the area and creates "blind" zones, but the hip roof allows you to use almost the entire space of the attic superstructure;

• financial opportunities. A pitched roof is the cheapest option;

• roofing material. Some types of roofing material can be used if a certain roof slope angle is maintained. For example, for a tile, the angle should be at least 25 °, and for PK-100 corrugated board (wave height 100 mm), 3-4 ° is enough;

• general architecture of the building;

• wind and snow load. Snow should slide off the roof;

• the condition of the bearing walls and foundation. The state of the bearing walls can be judged after a visual inspection. The presence of cracks indicates a problem. The use of porous material in the construction of a house reduces the wall's ability to withstand the load of the attic. It is difficult to judge the foundation. But knowing its appearance and what materials and technology were used in its construction, you can calculate what kind of load it can withstand;

• device of internal communications and ease of connection to them;

• selection of windows. Installation of special roof windows (inclined windows - sliding, pivoting, sliding) is carried out directly into the rafter part. They are more expensive but allow for better ventilation. To install vertical windows, you need to build walls or gables. The surface area of \u200b\u200blight-transmitting structures must be at least 12.5%;

• choice of material for construction. The cheapest and most popular option for performing work is the use of wood. Frame construction technology is quite simple. It is a mistake to believe that it is unacceptable to build a wooden attic floor. According to SNiP 21-01-97, the use of wooden structures in the construction of the attic floor is allowed with proper wood processing and a building height of up to 75 m.

• the complexity of the calculations. During the construction of a pitched roof, the loads on the load-bearing walls are unevenly distributed. Ignoring this fact will lead to the subsidence of the walls and the destruction of the foundation.

The main roof shapes are shown in the figure.

Nuance. The smaller the angle at the junction of the roof to the wall, the more usable area you get.

Some projects of houses with an attic floor are shown in the photo.

Before starting work, you should have a drawing, sketch, diagram or drawing with all dimensions in your hands.

The drawings of houses with an attic below will give an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat needs to be applied to the diagrams.

Calculation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe attic floor

The ability to use the attic for living space is calculated by the formula

AxB + 0.7xC

AND - the total area of \u200b\u200bpremises with a height exceeding 2.5 m;

IN - the total area of \u200b\u200bpremises, the height of which is in the range from 1.1 to 2.5 m;

WITH - the total area of \u200b\u200bpremises, the height of which is in the range from 0.8 m to 1.1 m.

0,7 - correction factor. Says that theoretically this area can be used, but with significant restrictions.

You can reduce the number of unused square meters by raising the walls to a height of more than a meter. This is achieved through the construction of attic walls. The attic walls of the attic floor are a superstructure above the load-bearing walls.

Material prepared for the site www.site

The device of the attic floor (attic)

Next, we go directly to construction work or to reconstruction (alteration of the attic space into the attic floor). For those who want to remodel the attic into an attic, you need to dismantle the old coating.

Then the rafter system is installed, for which you will need:

1. log (diameter not less than 180 mm) or timber (best glued, dimensions 80x80 or 100x100);
2. board (40x1500) for the lathing;
3. hardware, baked wire, anchors or fittings. In order to perform reliable fastening of all elements;
4. floor beams. A finishing floor will be laid on them;
5. finished staircase to the attic floor. It can be located outside the attic or inside. Outdoor placement creates inconvenience when using it in the cold season and in the rain. The interior steals the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe lower floor. A spiral staircase can serve as a compromise. Even in the smallest room, a compact folding or retractable ladder is installed.
6. roofing material;
7. protective films;
8. thermal insulation material;
9. material for wall and ceiling decoration.

Attic floor rafter system - device technology

The device of the rafter system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat, then the rafter legs are assembled and installed. It is easier to collect them on the ground. Installation starts with two opposite legs. Then a rope is pulled between them. It regulates the accuracy of the installation.

After installing the frame of the rafter system, the legs are fastened together. That is, the crate is stuffed. The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material.

The construction process of the attic floor - video

The frame is ready. A properly executed roofing cake looks like the one shown in the figure.

Attic windows

Roof windows are installed between the rafters. To make the fastening more reliable, horizontal jumpers from the timber are installed at the installation site of the window (above and below on the rafter system).

Insulation of the attic floor

Energy saving needs to be taken care of. The absence of an air gap created by the attic increases heat loss through the attic roof.

Arranging it is the easiest and fastest way to increase the amount of usable area. The rooms in the attic take on a kind of romantic areola and become a favorite pastime for the household. The main advantage of these premises is a large amount of fresh air and light. But you need to approach it with all responsibility, otherwise you risk becoming hostage to weather conditions.

The mansard roof can be of any shape, but most often it is gable. And if it is also a broken line, then with its help the space is used most rationally. A huge plus of the attic floor is that its construction is much more economical than the construction of a full-fledged floor with capital walls.

The structural structure of the roof where the attic will be or the one under which there will be no living quarters does not differ. The strength and stability of the roof depends entirely on its rafter system.

Rafters Is the main supporting structure of the roof. They must withstand both the weight of the roof and the load in the form of precipitation and wind. The rafter system is calculated based on the selected roofing material, as well as depending on the climatic conditions of the area.

For the construction of a power rafter system, ferrous metal is used in accordance with GOST, a galvanized thin-walled cold-formed profile or wood, as well as combinations of ferrous metal and galvanized profiles, metal and wood. In places that are difficult to access for installation, it is better to use a thin-walled profile.

The choice of material directly depends on the length of the spans that need to be covered. For long distances, ferrous metal or trusses are suitable.

It is very important to use only lightweight materials and structures for the construction of an additional floor. The advantages of a thin-walled profile are that it does not require welding and can be assembled on site on bolted joints or rivets.

Wood, as a material, is also well suited, but requires additional treatment with an antiseptic.

Rafters, frames or trusses are erected from supporting structures. They are mounted on the Mauerlat, and then runs are made on them. If the step is large, it also becomes part of the power structures.

Mauerlat - this is a part of the roofing system in the form of a bar, laid on the perimeter of the wall and is the lower rafter support.

An important task is how to make the attic warm, that is, to organize the insulation cake. The difference between a dwelling and a simple roof is in the need for its thermal insulation. As an additional load, all insulation is not essential and does not affect the structural structure of the roof.

The main design principle is that the load-bearing structure must be placed either in a warm circuit or in a cold one, but not in the middle. Warm placement is preferable, then the whole insulation cake comes out.

The most common mistakes:

• lumber is not treated with antiseptic and fireproof impregnations and this shortens the life of your roof
• rafter legs rally with cuts without using heat-insulating pads, which leads to freezing and cold bridges
• cross-sections of rafters and their installation takes place "by eye" without taking into account loads
• the rafter legs are not attached to the Mauerlat or are attached with nails, which is the same in a strong gust of wind
• the waterproofing film is laid with the front side inside the room, and not outside, as it should be
• insufficiently reliable fastenings of the joints of rafters with girders, sometimes it's just a couple of nails.

As a result of non-compliance with construction technologies, many get a disastrous result, even if not immediately. To avoid this, let us consider in detail how to do it.

An example of how to calculate the attic

Before starting the construction of the attic with your own hands, you will need to make a drawing. If you do not own, for example, AutoCad, you can do it by hand. It is important that you clearly see the projection of your attic from the front, from the side and its top view.

First, mark the load-bearing walls of your house in a front view (looking at the gable of the building).

So, let's say there is a house with the following initial parameters:

• Three load-bearing walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300 mm.
• The distance between the walls is 4m.
• The floor beams of the first floor were laid with a 50cm cornice outlet.
• Since the maximum length of a wooden beam is 6m, this value is taken as the basis for the width of the attic overlap. Based on this, we get a drawing of a gable sloping roof.
• Height from floor to beam - 2660mm.
• The length of the side and top rafters (roof breaks) is 3300mm each. When these values \u200b\u200bare the same, then, in addition to the fact that it looks harmonious, it will be easier to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof covering.
• The angle of inclination of the side rafter is 60 °, the upper one is 25 °.
• The thickness of the floor beams is 250mm, of the rafter beams - 200mm.
• Vertical racks of 150 mm were installed, on which a strapping bar was laid, and the attic floor beam, side and top rafters were attached to it.
• The total roof height is 4260mm and the living space is 2250mm. According to the norms, this is the permissible ceiling height for premises for temporary residence, that is, bedrooms, children's rooms.

In fact, an attic is a frame consisting of several posts, beams and rafters.

If the length of the transverse slab exceeds 6m, and, accordingly, one beam cannot be dispensed with, then the upper part of the attic can be made in the form of a truss with a post, a truss and an additional post. In the side part, trusses can also be installed, which expand the rafters. In this case, these details are not necessary.

When making calculations, you must have at hand a set of rules and tables on technical building codes, which is called "Loads and Impacts". It contains not only general provisions, but also formulas with coefficients, for example, melting, snow drift and uneven distribution over the roof area.

When calculating how to build an attic, it must be remembered that 4 types of loads act on it at once:

• own weight (it is relatively easy to calculate, knowing what kind of insulation cake will be in the ceiling and rafters)
• pressure on floors of people, furniture, etc. inside.
• snow load on the slope less than 30 ° is equal to 1.52 kPa; if the slope is steeper than 60 °, then it does not have such a load
• wind, which acts evenly on all rafters from the windy side, and from the leeward side, at this time, suction takes place, "tearing off" both the upper and side rafters.

Also, the tear-off force of rafters is especially effective when the wind blows into the gable of the building. These loads are calculated using formulas using the appropriate aerodynamic coefficient.

We build an attic with our own hands

Installation sequence:

• First of all, floor beams with a section of 70 (50) x 250mm are laid with a step of 1m (for each wall length, this is calculated individually, the main thing is that the step is the same). In this case, this is also explained by the fact that a staircase will go out into one of the gaps, and it should not be already 90cm. If you take a smaller step, the floor beam would have to be trimmed and reinforced, and this is an additional concern.
• On the sides, beams are packed to the beams, on which sheet material or boards are laid.
• After installing the beams, racks are attached to them in 2 rows, which are leveled using a level with a plumb line, and then temporary jibs are made to them, perpendicular to each other and nailed, along and across the roof axis. This additionally secures the beams and prevents them from deviating to the side. Any board can be used for the jib.
• A rope is pulled between the two extreme posts and the rest of the posts are leveled along it. Their step is always equal to the step of the floor beams. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. As a result, you should get two parallel rows of racks, on which the strapping beams are then placed.
• Runs are laid and fixed on racks with 150mm nails and corners on self-tapping screws.

• On top, beams from a bar of 50 x 200 mm are placed on the edge, which increases their rigidity. Since subsequently there is no significant load on them, this section, as a rule, is sufficient. But in order to insure them during installation, supports from a bar not thinner than 25mm are brought under them. At this stage, the rigidity of the attic is provided only in the transverse direction; in the longitudinal direction, the structure is unstable. From above, until the rafters are installed, one or two boards can also be temporarily reinforced on the crossbars.
• The lower rafters with a section of 50 x 150 mm are installed. First, a template is made from a 25 x 150mm board (it is easier to process). The length is measured, applied to the upper beam and the shape of the joint is drawn directly on the board, which is then cut out. Next, the template is tried on at all other places where the rafters are installed, and if it coincides with them, all the legs are cut out according to the template. However, the bottom part, which rests on the Mauerlat, is cut in place. The rafters are attached using corners with screws and nails. It is possible to mount beams with rafters in parallel, that is, when all the elements are attached at once in one span, or it is possible sequentially, when all the floor beams are installed first, and then all the side rafters.
• The so-called wind connections are being established. These are wooden braces that expand the top point at the level where the attic beams are installed.
• Queue of upper rafters. For convenience, at the level of the ridge, an overlay and tightening is sometimes made in the middle in order to put together the rafters on the ground, and then raise and loosen them in place. The center of the roof is marked with the help of a temporary rack, which is nailed to the Mauerlat and extreme tightening from the end side so that this board goes up the center of the roof. This will be the guideline for the rafters. Further, as in the case of the lower ones, they make a template, applying it with one end to the edge of the installed board, and with the other to the girder, on which the upper rafters will rest. Saw it out, try it on to all points on both sides of the roof. If the struts were fixed in parallel, there should be no problems with the upper rafters.
• The required number of rafter legs is made according to the template. They are placed on longitudinal beams for sawing, fastened with corners and in the upper part they are connected with scraps of boards on self-tapping screws or metal plates. Often they are reinforced with cuts to the transverse beams: hanging racks 25 x 150 mm are fixed between the junction of two rafters and the attic tightening.
• Next, the attic ceiling is installed in the same way as the floor, when boards are laid on the sides on the nailed bars.

• Installation of a frame for sewing a pediment, it is called a half-timbered house. The window opening is also indicated here. A board 50 x 150mm with a step of about 600-700mm can act as its racks. Important: the edge of the rack should go across the pediment, creating additional rigidity.
• Now you can start sewing the gable with boards. It is worth doing this before laying the crate, so that later, if some boards go beyond the rafters, it will be easier to cut them down. If you do the opposite, then you will have to adjust the corner of each board to the existing crate. Up to the attic floor beam, the pediment is sewn up with boards horizontally. The remaining piece of the pediment is sewn up vertically.
• Top links are made. Since the gable frame beams were attached to a sufficiently flexible floor beam, it is necessary to make a semblance of a stiffening truss using the next floor beam.
• A brace is installed that expands the upper part of the rafters. With the base, it is attached to the third floor beam from the edge, and with the end it rests on the most extreme point of the ridge. This element is used more often for soft roofing, when the ridge is not rigid enough.

If the house is completely frame, then it is necessary to establish such connections in the overlap of the first floor. If the house is reinforced concrete, then in the upper part of the floor there is a stiffness belt and does not need connections.
In some cases, it is also necessary to provide for stiffness ties in the rafters. If a corrugated board or metal tile is used as a roofing, then the rafters do not need to be reinforced: the sheet material will serve as a stiffness diaphragm anyway, if it is properly installed.

The fastening of elements to each other can be very diverse, for example, staples with nails, wooden or metal plates, MZP (metal toothed plates, whose teeth are driven in with a sledgehammer). It is important to remember that the length of the nails should be at least twice the thickness of the board you are nailing.

Fastening the lathing

Depending on the selected roofing, at the final stage of the attic construction, the sheathing is laid.

The lathing is a construction of beams that are laid perpendicular to the rafter legs, attaching precisely to them. The function of the battens is to take on the weight of the roof covering, keeping it securely in place.

Sheathing for sheet coveringis a continuous crate and is made of 25mm edged boards. The width should be no more than 140mm, since wide boards tend to deform. If there is more than 1m between the rafters, then you may need to speed up the course of the rafters with special bars, and then lay out the boards. Next, roofing material or glassine is placed, and roofing material is spread on top. It should be noted that such a crate makes the roof extremely reliable and suitable for absolutely all types of coatings, while reducing the noise from rain.

Sheathing for metal tilesmake them sparse and, if possible, adjust the tiles to the course of the wave. It is mounted from edged boards of 25 (30) x 100mm with a step of 80-100cm. The peculiarity lies in the fact that before installation on the rafters, a hydro-windproof membrane is strengthened. The first board from the eaves should be installed higher than the rest at the height of the tile wave. If short boards are used, their joints are best staggered.

Lathing for ceramic tiles and other piece items are considered the most difficult. The work also begins with the installation of a hydro-barrier, and then a sparse crate is made of 50 x 50mm bars. The challenge is to keep the exact rhythm between the elements, as one step is equal to the covering surface of one tile.

There are always several approaches to the process of any construction. Here we described how to make an attic with our own hands on an already erected house, however, there are cases when the attic is assembled in position on the ground and put in place with a crane, and then it is already strengthened in the right places.

Home is a place where each of us feels completely protected. Comfort and coziness are important components for a person's relaxation, which is sometimes impossible due to the lack of square meters. Thanks to new technologies in construction, it became possible to expand the area of \u200b\u200bhouses, usually by means of extensions, but if the plot of land is small, then the attic would be the best option! Many designers have long considered attic spaces as a good option for increasing the area in the house, although it is not always possible to do it without the intervention of builders. Often this happens due to the fact that old buildings have a small ceiling height and a flimsy foundation, which must be strengthened for the safety of the future structure and the whole house as a whole.

The original attic can be made from a multi-sloped broken roof.

The main advantage of the attic is the ability to build it on any type of house (summer cottage, cottage, old house with an attic).

The only condition in the manufacture of an attic is the correct approach, because there are a lot of subtleties that need to be taken into account, so it is better to trust the construction of an attic to professionals or study all stages of construction well.

Strengthening the foundation in an old house

The first thing you must do is check the foundation: whether vertical cracks are visible in it, whether there are distortions in the windows or signs of destruction of the foundation masonry. If there is, the foundation needs to be restored. The second point is the analysis of the materials from which the private house is made, because the restoration technology will depend on the material.

Foundation reinforcement scheme: A - double-sided; B - one-sided; 1 - foundation; 2 - anchor; 3 - reinforcing mesh; 4 - formwork; 5 - concrete mix.

1. The foundation in a wooden private house can be completely replaced. To do this, it is necessary to undermine the old foundation (if any) and put the house on jacks. Then use iron reinforcement, from 3 meters long, to make the initial frame. Next, you should pour the prepared frame with concrete to the required height. With this you can not only strengthen, but also raise the foundation.
2. Complete replacement of the foundation in a brick or stone old house is not possible. Repair is considered a more complicated and important process that requires responsibility and care! Due to the fact that the structure has a lot of weight, it is impossible to dig under a weakened foundation, because a strong sediment is possible, which can finally damage the structure in the old house. The only option is a monolithic belt (a reinforced concrete structure that helps keep the masonry at the base of the floor).

Attic project creation

It is well known that no building can be built without a project. Such extensions as attics also need similar projects, but, oddly enough, they have their own characteristics, which are described in GOST. The main requirements for such projects are:

1. Providing fire safety. Escape routes should be located either through the premises in the old house, or in its outer part.
2. The height of the premises. The minimum permissible height is considered to be 2.5 m, but exceptions are possible with different roof slopes.
3. The volume of the premises should be calculated from the line of division of the premises into the working and living areas. In their absence, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the entire room, taking into account all the slopes.

Dismantling the roof in an old house

The dismantled roof elements should be carefully lowered to the ground using a rope system.

Now, when it comes to the very process of building an attic, it is necessary to dismantle the roof in the old house in order to build a new attic. You should not avoid this process, because there is a double benefit here: firstly, you can be sure that the attic will be reliable, and secondly, in the future you will significantly save money on.

The first thing to start with is removing slate or other covering. This process should not cause any difficulties, because there is no complex technology in itself. The slate should be lowered from the roof without breaking it, because it can be useful in further work. Following the slate, it is necessary to remove the roofing material, which is held by the metal strips. Removing the top cover is easy, and one person can do it, but when disassembling the structure itself, it is advisable to have a team, because difficulties may arise during dismantling.

Frame erection and roof construction

When building, you need to know the rule of the golden ratio. By this rule, it becomes clear that, despite the external limitation, a circle can be inscribed into the section. From here you can deduce the main stages for building:

1. Work on the assembly of truss systems. The rafters are the base of the roof, which consists of a rigid frame that carries the main load.
2. Preparation. Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to assemble the template (it is advisable to do this on the ground, because this can simplify the process of making some components).
3. Mounting. After making the template, it must be transferred to the roof itself. The best roof slope is 45-60 degrees. With a decrease in the slope, the living area of \u200b\u200bthe premises can be significantly reduced, but, compared to an increase, this is acceptable. Increasing the angle can make the attic vulnerable to strong wind gusts.

Installation tools:

• several pencils of different types;
• nails (when working with a wooden structure);
• hammers with a nail puller;
• saw or chainsaw (for working with a bar);
• meter or tape measure;
• a set of drills with a drill;
• bulgarian;
• level.

After the frame is ready, you should decide on the material, because the lathing process will depend on it. If you will use a soft roof, then before working with it, you will need to install OSB sheets on top of the frame. Only after that you can proceed directly to the fastening of the material itself.

Hydro and thermal insulation of the attic

When making an attic, it is worth considering the fact that the ceiling in it will also be a roof, so the warm air that will rise can cause significant damage to the ceiling, eventually destroying the beams. In order to avoid these unfavorable processes, it is necessary to insulate the attic during the construction process. To do this, you need to fill in all the through-slots with glass wool or fill them with foam. This simple process will help avoid heat retention and waterproofing problems.

Separately, you need to pay attention to waterproofing, because if problems with the steam that rises up in the old house are easily solved, then when waterproofing it is necessary to install a special film. Due to the ingress of water on the insulating materials, their properties deteriorate, so the installation of such a film will be necessary. And so that water does not linger on the film, special taps are made.

Internal work

When all the external work is completed, it is time to do the internal work. it is customary to sheathe plasterboard, because this material is the most accessible and helps to hide inaccuracies. Further, there are no new moments, as in the old house, because after the installation of drywall, the usual process of wall cladding begins (primer, putty, painting, wallpapering), that is, work on the design of the room.

They treat the question responsibly, because the height of the room is not the same, therefore, it is necessary to divide it. Usually, in places where the height is the smallest, they put a wardrobe, and where the largest is a bed or table. Thus, you can clearly delineate the room into zones!