Sheets and polycarbonate profiles are easy enough. For better cutting it is necessary use high-speed circular saws With persistence. The blades for such saws should have small undiluted teeth and be reinforced with solid alloys. When cutting polycarbonate panels, profiles must be reliably maintained to avoid vibration. Cutting is also possible with a tape saw.
After the panels are cut, they need from their inner cavities remove chips.
Drilling holes
Sealing of the ends of the cellular polycarbonate panel
Important correctly close the ends of the panels. With inclined or vertical location Sheets upper ends need to be sealed with a solid aluminum self-adhesive ribbon. The lower ends are closed with a special perforated ribbon, which will prevent the penetration of dust and provide condensate. If the design has arched view, Both ends must be closed with a perforated ribbon.
We strongly recommend using similar face-to-color polycarbonate profiles. They are quite aesthetic, reliable and very comfortable. The design of such profiles provides sufficiently dense fixation on the ends of the panels and does not require additional fasteners.
To ensure the flow of condensate necessary drill several holes in the end profile.
It is impossible Tales cellular polycarbonate Leave open, put them on the usual scotch, and also hermetically close the lower ends of the panels.
Orientation of polycarbonate panels when designing and mounting
In cellular polycarbonate, internal ribs of stiffness are located along the length of the sheet (type sizes 3m, 6 or 12m). The panel must be focused in such a way that the condensate, which will be formed inside the panel, can fire inner canals and outward.
If the glazing has vertical orientation, then the ribs of rigidity should be vertically, in scope design Accordingly, along the skate. If the frame has an arched view, then the ribs of rigid should go along the arc, and not parallel to the ground. These conditions must be taken into account even at the design stage of the design when calculating the number of sheets of cellular polycarbonate and their correct loop.
For use in the street, it is advisable to use a cellular polycarbonate covered by special protective UV Stabilizing Layerwhich is applied to the outer surface of the panel. From this side, polycarbonate sheet has protective film. with special labeling. We recommend installing panels without removing this film, and it is only after the end of work.
It is impossible Bending the panels at a smaller radius than this is indicated by the manufacturer for the specific thickness and structure of polycarbonate. Also cannot violate the rules of orientation of sheets.
Point mount panels
The point fastening of cellular polycarbonate sheets to the frame is carried out using self-tapping and special thermoshab.
Termoshabait consists of a plastic washer with a leg, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the panel, sealing washer and the snap-on cover. Such a device allows reliably and hermetically to mount polycarbonate panels, as well as eliminate the "cold bridges" created by self-draws. In addition, the legs of the heatmoshaba, they are preparing in the framework frame and thereby prevent the material crumpled.
In order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the cellular polycarbonate, holes in the panels must be made by 2-3 mm morethan the diameter of the legs of the thermoshack. And if the panel has a big length, then the holes are recommended to do stretched along the sheet. The recommended step of point mount is 300-400 mm.
Cellular polycarbonate panels it is impossible Fastening too hard, pulling the screws, use for fastening ripples, nails and unsuitable washers.
Connection and mounting panels
To connect cellular polycarbonate sheets, all-in-disposable and detachable polycarbonate profiles are used, which can also be transparent and color.
Installation using deline profiles.
The panels are inserted into the grooves of the profile corresponding to the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate sheets. Then with the help of self-sufficiency equipped with thermoshairs, the fastening of this profile is carried out to the longitudinal supports of the frame.
Also installing panels can be carried out using detachable polycarbonate profiles. They consist of two parts: the lower part is "base", the top is a snap-on cover.
Installation order:
- In the "base" drill holes, the diameter of which must be somewhat larger than the diameter of the self-press. Step approximately 300 mm.
- The "base" to attach with the help of screws to the longitudinal support of the frame, and then from both sides to lay polycarbonate sheets, leaving the "thermal gap" about 3-5 mm.
- With the help of a wooden image, snap the profile "cover" along the entire length. After that, the ends of the profile are closed with special plugs.
What needs to be taken into account when designing a framework for a cellular polycarbonate
When designing a coating from a cellular polycarbonate, it is important to consider:
- standard dimensions of sheets of material and their economical cutting;
- impact of snow and wind loads;
- the thermal expansion of polycarbonate panels, for example, during seasonal temperature change from -40 to + 40 ° C, each meter of cellular polycarbonate will undergo a change of approximately 5.2 mm;
- when creating arched structures, permissible bending radii panels;
- the need to complete a cellular polycarbonate by mounting elements (self-tapping screws, thermoshaba, connecting and end profiles, self-adhesive tapes).
Homeowners pay a lot of attention to the appearance of housing, trying to highlight it among neighboring structures. Agree, live in a beautiful, harmoniously finished house, however, when an economic crisis is on the threshold, you begin to search for ways to fulfill the finish of cheaper. Special attention deserves the issue of choosing a material for the trimming of the frontones, as it is in the literal sense of the face of the house. However, not only the aesthetic attractiveness of this element of the facade is important, but also its operational qualities. This article will tell you how to choose the way to cover the way and perform installation.
Frontone functions
The frontton is called part of the house facade, concluded between the roofs. It has a triangular, pentagonal and or trapezoidal form and is performed from the material that coincides with the material of the main wall or differ. Fronton roofs in addition to aesthetic function performs the following tasks:
- Protects from wind. The design of the front is exposed to wind load, so it must be sufficiently strong.
- Supports roof raids. Reliable frontones are an additional measure for supporting the slopes, which is especially important for the roofs of heavy roofing materials, For example, slate or tiles.
- Keep warm. FRONTON is a protective barrier between the warm places of the attic and cold atmospheric air. Therefore, the thickness of the sewing, the smaller the cracks in it, the warmer in the house.
- Protection against atmospheric precipitation. The wall between the skates should be sewed to protect the trim of the underpantle room from moisture.
- Improves appearance facade. The facade of the house will look beautiful, if, clapboard or other decorative materials.
Note! In the question of choosing the skin, experienced builders offer two ways: to obey the front of the roof with a material similar to the color and structure with the main trim of the wall or allocate this area using a contrasting shade. A qualitatively completed sewing masks small flaws in masonry, irregularities or an unsightly appearance of the wall.
Fronton clapboard clapboard
If you have limited financial capabilities, no better option In order to trim the fronton than the lining. This material has a rich texture. natural tree and pleasant color. It is fixed on a wooden frame from bars with self-tapping screws or nails. Finishing with wood has its own characteristics:
- Wood - natural materialwhich is subject to affecting microorganisms caused by mold and fungus. Therefore, the lover of the house from this material is destroyed without additional protection.
- The lining suffers from excess moisture. The finish of the house of the lining need processing paint and varnish coatingrepulsive water.
- If you see the nippers of the house with a wood material, you need to take into account the fire hazard of this material. The fire quickly absorbs the lining and turns into the rest of the roof.
- Maintenance complex. Protective coatingsnecessary to protect the lining from fire, moisture and microorganisms, require re-applying once in the 1-2 seasons.
Installation wooden decoration Accelerates the construction process due to the convenient attachment of the spike groove. Such a system of connecting elements greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the finishing wall. The lining is painted in any color or covered with a lesing antiseptic so that it is harmoniously combined with a hint of the roof and the facade.
Note! If you decide to obey the front of the roof of the lining with the goal of saving funds, then note that such savings will be momentary. Living of wooden finishing without processing protective compositions It is 5 years, later, the fronton loses the neat appearance and destroys. If you use antiseptic, paints and flames, you can extend the life of the lining to 15-20 years. However, processing has to be repeated almost every season, so the final cost of this type of trim exceeds the price of a more practical option.
Finishing siding
Professional builders call the most inexpensive and practical materialwho can be seeded by FRonton - Siding. Siding call decorative panels from polyvinyl chloride, metal or asbestos cement. Over the entire length, they are supplied with hook locks. To install siding, the frame is mounted on the fronton metal profile. This method of finishing has the following advantages:
Important! The feature of the polyvinyl chloride is that when the temperature changes, the sizes of the panels are slightly changed. Due to temperature expansion, they are deformed, burst, and unpleasant gaps are formed between the elements.
Choosing, what material to use to decorate the fronton, think primarily about its durability and practicality. After all, the sheathing of the house, requiring points after three seasons, is dubious savings.
Video instruction
The most common way to finish the ends of the details of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard lies in sticking or other type of edge, followed by processing. Along with this, there is another common way to finish the ends - inserting or gluing Kant PVC. Kant applies, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture in the process of its operation, high humidity, as well as from designer considerations.
Types of Cant PVC.
In contrast to the edge, which has excess in the process of incoming, the kant is produced immediately under the specific thickness of the plate (the most common - 16 and 32 mm), the trimming of the PVC edge in length is not provided by technology. It is also not provided for the docking of Cant PVC on the corners. For the cladding of the edges of two adjacent ends, it is necessary to provide a smooth transition - rounding the angle. The minimum possible radius of rounding is selected by an experimental way for each edge individually, as it strongly depends on the rigidity of the edge, the size of the side, the features of the upper (decorative) coating.
Kant's edges can be both with sides (with girths, clips on the material plane), and without them. Traditionally, Kant with sideboards is used more widely for several reasons: allows you to hide small chips of laminate near the end of the part, protect the end from direct moisture ingress, less demanding accuracy technological process and stability of the thickness of the material.
The furniture kant can be divided into two groups: a cant of mortise type with a spike (T-Kant), an overhead kit without spike (C-CANT). Cut Cant is produced both with sides, and without them. The invoice without sideboards does not exist. The technologies of the end of the end details of the topics and other type of edge differ drafically, but (subject to technology), on operational reliability and consumer qualities, the C- and T-Kant are practically no different.
Examples of cutting edge profiles: without ports for chipboard 32 mm (photo on the left), with spps for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the right).
Sizes are indicative, depend on the manufacturer of Kant.
Cut.
Cut Cant is the most common type of PVC Cant. Since T-Kant has a spike, for this in the end of the chipboard, the groove (groove) of a certain width and depth should be done, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the Canta). The main tool required for the installation of the mortise edge is manual frezer with edge cutter, or its stationary option - the milling machine.If there is no special requirements for the milling demand, there is enough of a small power unit from 1 kW, then the mill must be selected by a number of parameters. First, the milling cutter should leave the groove of a certain width, namely by 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the Cant. So how are u different manufacturers Kant Thickness Thickness Different, then, ideally, for the inserts of Kant in a 16 mm chipboard, it is necessary to have two cutters with a tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and for the 32-millimeter Kant's cut-in - or even two. However, in practice, for considerations of saving money, it is enough to have only one mill with a height of the tooth from 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of beats, the cutter and shaft (collet cartridge) of the mill, such a height of the tooth can be considered a universal, suitable for the inserting of the overwhelming majority of T-Kant 16 mm. To perform a groove of much greater width, the milling is performed for several passes, with a change in the cutting cutter. When the biodes are detected and / or the tool, it is necessary to choose a mill with a smaller height of the tooth, since the beating may entail a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter should leave the groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the spike of Kant, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, for the possibility of using Cant of any manufacturer (with any spike length), a mill is required, providing a groove depth of 10 mm. Milling with an unnecessarily overestimated milling depth is irrational, as this reduces the resource of the cutter and leads to an increase in the load on the mill. Sequence of operations when finishing the end of the LDSP LDP kant PVC Shown below.
An example of measuring the thickness of Cant spike for chipboard 32 mm.
Italian Kant has a thicker spike and b aboutwe have rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).
An example of measuring the thickness of Cant spike for chipboard 16 mm.
Italian Kant has a thicker spike, b aboutwe have the rigidity and the height of the side (photo on the left) than the Chinese (photo on the right).
Examples of measuring the internal width of Kant
For chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
Sizes are indicative, depend on the manufacturer of Kant.
Edge cutter for mortise edge.
The depth of the groove W depends on the diameter of the bearing D1, the diameter of the cutter D
and is located according to the formula W \u003d (D-D1) / 2.
Step 1. Exhibits a mill on the sale of the end with an accuracy not worse than +/- 0.5 mm.
Step 2. Shlifuy (stepping) The face of LDSP, so that when putting up a boiler, the laminate did not pick the laminate.
Step 3. Milling groove.
Paz for Kant is ready.
Step 4.
Step 4.Crimping the ends of Kant (photo on the left), grinding flush (photo on the right).
Ready.
The adjacent end can be saved by the edge, capturing the kant(photo on the right).
The use of garden secateurs.
It is convenient to trim the PVC Cant to a garden secateur having one resistant (not acute) cutter, the second is a worker, sharpened. Thrust cutter is quite thick and rounded to first, do not injure decorative surface Kant, and secondly, it is good to repeat his semicircular shape. The working cutter has a one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, it allows you to tightly press the cutter to the chipboard end and performing the corruption of Cant flush by one movement, without subsequent grinding with sandpaper.
Small garden secateur for trimming Cant 16 mm. To work with a wide 32-millimeter Cant, it is better to choose a more model.
The stubborn cutter is tightly pressed to the semicircular surface of the Kant, the working blade with a finger press to the ISP end, perform pruning.
High-quality trim in one movement. With a certain skill and sharply sharpened blade, the secateur can be cut off very narrow strips of Kant.
Cant.
Installation of the invoice can not require the use of the power tool, the work is not dusty and can be performed even at home, everything you need is a knife and glue.It is necessary to prepare the inner surface of Kant, namely, to inflict deeply multidirectional scratches in order to improve adhesion of glue. For this operation, any acute subject is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, canvas hacksaws for metal, etc. After the surface of the protozapan, on the inner surface of Kant, it is necessary to apply glue, for example, well the proven, "liquid nails". If there is a need for maximum protection against the penetration of water under Kant, then instead of glue you need to use silicone sealant, applying it in excess quantity.After applying glue, the kant is consistently put on the end of the part, leaving a small allowance from the ends. Adopted glue must be removed immediately. If necessary, temporarily fix the kant (for example, close curvilinear sites) will help paper (greasy) tape. After drying the glue (for " liquid nails"- a day), cut off the cabins of Kant flush. The need awaiting the drying of the adhesive is the main inconvenience of the application of the Cant, compared with the mortise.
Step 1.Scratch the wrongon of Kant.
Step 2.Apply the glue "Liquid nails".
Step 3.We put on Kant to the end of the LDSP, we remove the outstanding excess glue.
Ready. The end of the LDSP is separated by the PVC patch.
Crossing ends is carried out after drying glue.
Some subtleties of working with CratePVC.
- The priority in the choice should be given to Kant, in which the color of the base is as close as possible to the color of the decor - an external coating. This will contribute to the imperceptibility of possible small damage (scratches) of Kant.
- The size of Kant's sides is different. Preferences should be given to Kant with a greater height of the side, this will allow you to close very large chips of the laminate.
- The tougher Kant, the stronger, is better with the blows. As a rule, more expensive Kants have greater rigidity.
- The rigidity of Kant depends on the temperature in the room. It is recommended to fill the Kant at room temperature. Work for low temperatures requires special attention Behind the side of Kant, he becomes tough and can duplicate (chop out) the edge of the laminate.
- Glue type "Liquid nails" and some other critical to storage and curing temperatures. It is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations of the glue manufacturer.
Cant PVC finished furniture ends acquire excellent operational, strength and decorative characteristics. Kant with sides, mounted using sealing compositions, is reliable and, probably, the cheapest decorative tool protect the ends of parts from water penetration, which avoids the swelling of the chipboard.
After cutting chipboard or LDSP on the details, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed from the following considerations:
- practice aesthetic type of workpiece (parts);
-Nip formaldehyde evaporation;
- protect the end surfaces of the blanks from minor mechanical damage;
- Protection end surfaces from moisture in the stove.
There are also edges that perform the role of amortization (Soft edge) are used for the manufacture of children's furniture.
Consider some methods of sealing the end surface of the chipboard and build them on the stiffness of the end surface. The toughest surface will take first place.
Cant Mortise (PVC)
In the figures in the context we see several different kants.
To install them, you need a manual milling
make a groove, along the entire length of the end, the required width and depth.
The width of the groove is formed by the cutter,
after the passage of which, it should be 0.5 ... 0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6 ... 10mm, depending on the length of the spike.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. Inherit (grave) the face of the end of the LDSP sandpaper shallow grain sandpaper.
2. We will select the cutter necessary thickness and diameter, install it in the center of sealing spikes.
3. Frewever groove of the desired size.
4. PVA liner or "liquid nails", cover the outer surface of the spike.
5. Put carefully kant rubber hammer to a dense fit to the surface of the end.
6. Cut the ends on both sides and finally align with the end surfaces.
Kant Patch
Overhead plastic profile Does not require the use of an expensive tool. During operation there is no noise and dust.
To install the profile we will use glue and knife.
1. Embrade end facets.
2. Lasure the inner surface of liquid nails with silicone sealant.
3. Profile put on the end of the LDSP.
4. Remove the excess glue or silicone sealant, wait for the complete drying of the glue.
5. Cut the ends and align them with end surfaces.
In curvilinear sites, the profile must be fixed, press to the end surface. This can be done with the help of painting tape.
Furniture edge
Paper or plastic ribbon.which is glued to the open end items from LDSP.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4 ... 5mm. The thicker edge, the higher it strength characteristics, Therefore, the ends in difficult places are covered with a thin edge, and on the turnover, ends in easily accessible places, bold thick. The width is chosen through the thickness of the plate, plus the cutting for processing 2 ... 3 mm.
1. Check the uniformity of glue to the inner surface.
2. We fit to the end and minimize the hairdryer, or iron.
3. Cut the ends and clean them. If light strips are formed, you can close them furniture wax, Morilka or a solution of manganese.
Material classification:
- Melminic edge (paper strip, which is impregnated with carbamide (melamine) resins and treated with varnish);
-Pvh (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (ABS) (acrylonitrile butadiene-styrene);
- PPP (polypropylene).
We know how to choose the material, the construction fasteners, how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can start independent manufacture Furniture, which you yourself invented and designed.
Share with friends!