The dimensions of the apartment do not always allow you to place sleeping places so that there is free space. Cluttering a room with folding beds is not the best solution. A hand-made bunk bed will help to cope with the problem and save space.
Pros and cons of bunk beds
Purchased products are expensive, moreover, they do not take into account the peculiarities of the premises where they will be installed. Therefore, it makes sense to make a two-tier structure yourself, combine it with a study table or a storage cabinet, provide drawers under the lower tier.
The simplest summer cottage option can be made by any home craftsman who owns a tool in the slightest degree and has the skills to work with wood. In a city apartment, such beds are most often installed in a nursery. This allows you to free up space for games and activities.
The downside of the design is the increased risk of injury. If you decide to install such a structure in the nursery, take care of a reliable side on the second tier of the bed so that the child is safe. In any case, you cannot put a baby under three years old to sleep on the second tier.
Children's bunk beds
The size of the bed for a child's bed is determined by the standard dimensions of the mattresses. As a rule, it is 160x70 cm. There are transforming beds that provide for lengthening the berth as the child grows.
You can make various options for a baby bed yourself:
- classic, for two children;
- a variety of the first option - for three or four children;
- a loft bed for one child, where the sleeping place is located at the top, and there is a place for classes at the bottom;
- angular, when the upper and lower berths are located at an angle of 90 degrees to each other;
- with a retractable bottom tier;
- folding.
Unusual options for two-tier structures for a child in the photo
Classic bunk bed suitable for two children 
Corner bunk bed with study space saves space in the nursery 
A transforming bed with a pull-out lower berth is an excellent solution for a small apartment 
A bunk bed with a slide and a whole range of equipment will appeal to little athletes 
A bunk transforming bed with a pull-out berth and a table provides the child with a full-fledged place to sleep and study 
Loft bed suitable for one child 
A house-shaped bunk bed is a great place to sleep and play 
A combined bunk bed, decorated in a nautical style, will appeal to a young dreamer 
A loft bed with a sofa on the lower tier provides a place to sleep for mother and child 
The original bunk bed with curved supports and a wide lower berth will fit into any interior 
Bunk bed designed in the form of cars will appeal to boys 
A folding bunk bed is a great way to save space for games and activities 
A bunk bed with drawers, cupboards and shelves allows you to place a lot of necessary children's things 
Wooden bed with different widths of berths is designed for sleeping children of different ages
Two-tier designs for adults
Bunk beds for adults are most often installed in barracks, camp sites and other places where it is necessary to accommodate a large number of people in a small area. Homemade construction is a convenient option for giving.
Do-it-yourself bunk bed for a summer residence - video
In a one-room apartment, a combined model is useful: the upper seat is for a child, the lower one is for an adult. But there are many options for loft beds, they are suitable for adults and children. If necessary, you can even install a bunk structure with two double beds. It will come in handy when placing guests.
Double bed options for adults and combination models - gallery
If the height of the ceilings allows, the bed can be made three-tier 
The combination version of the bunk bed with a narrower upper seat allows you to accommodate an adult and a child 
A bunk bed with two double beds is a great option for a large family 
The metal double bed has increased durability 
Folding loft bed saves space and does not interfere during the day 
The loft bed can be fitted with a sofa for more convenience 
The built-in loft bed is completely invisible and very cozy 
Metal folding bunk bed - stylish and comfortable interior detail 
The original version of the combined bed for adults and two children with the style of a tree house will appeal to the whole family 
Classic wooden bunk bed for adults and children will appeal to all the inhabitants of the house 
Corner loft bed with sofa helps accommodate many guests
What materials will be needed for work
The most popular material for making these beds is wood. But other options are also possible:
- plywood;
- chipboard;
- metal;
- polypropylene pipes.
For inexperienced craftsmen, the simplest material is chipboard or plywood. They are easily sawn with a jigsaw and do not require special processing equipment. The relative cheapness of the material also plays an important role.
Advice. When making a bunk bed from chipboard, make the sides from a single sheet. Any cutouts on them will weaken the structure.
Making beds from different materials has its own characteristics.
- Experience is required to work with wood. But the product turns out to be durable and environmentally friendly, which is important when making furniture for children. In addition, wood is much lighter than chipboard.
- Metal will require equipment for welding, cutting and working skills. The beds made from it are the most durable, withstand the maximum load.
- Craftsmen make furniture even from polypropylene pipes. Perhaps such products are not distinguished by special beauty and sophistication, but they are very simple to manufacture. You only need the pipes themselves, a set of fittings, a hacksaw and a drawing.
Bunk beds made of different materials - gallery
Wooden beds are the most environmentally friendly 
Plywood decor is suitable for decorating a baby bed 
For the manufacture of a folding bed, plywood is the best option 
Particleboard is most often used for the production of bunk beds 
A bunk bed of an original design can be made from metal profile pipes.
Bed ladder designs suitable for different ages
How convenient and safe it will be to climb to the second floor of the bed depends on the stairs. She may be:
- vertical - two planks or bars connected by crossbeams made of wood or pipes. Sometimes it is attached, but most often it is built-in;
- marching. This is an ordinary staircase with steps. It is made of a board with a section of 30x80 mm, it takes up more space than a vertical one, but it is much more convenient. The width of the steps should be at least 350 mm, the distance between the rungs should be 200-300 mm. The tilt angle is about 70 degrees;
- with built-in drawers or wardrobes. Since the space under the stairs remains free, it is used as a storage for things, embedding drawers on the side or in the steps, or equipping a wardrobe.
Which staircase should you choose? It all depends on who will use it. For adults and adolescents, both of the first options are suitable, for small children it is more convenient to march, and it is less likely to fall from it.
For children, it is better to make a staircase with handrails and correctly calculate the step width so that the child can comfortably and safely climb to the second floor.
The first step is to create a drawing
Before you start making the bed, you need to make a drawing. With it, you will calculate how much material and fasteners you need. This does not require special design knowledge, but you need to take into account some points.
- Leave the distance between the upper and lower tier so that an adult can sit on the lower bed without risking hitting his head on the upper one.
- Leave enough space between the top tier and the ceiling for the child to feel good while sleeping. Warm air rises. If there is not enough space, it will be difficult for the child to breathe.
- When designing a bed, consider the standard sizes of mattresses.
How to create a bed diagram on a computer - video
If self-creation of a drawing is too difficult for you, use ready-made diagrams.
Drawings of different models of bunk beds - gallery
You can make a classic bunk bed with a built-in ladder yourself using the drawing 
A bunk bed made of chipboard with a wardrobe and drawers, made according to the scheme, will appeal to young children 
According to the drawing, drawers can be built into the ladder of the child's bed 
Conveniently integrates a study table into the loft bed
Making a bed out of wood: step by step instructions
To make a corner bunk bed, you will need:
- 4 things. wooden beams 50x100x3000 mm;
- 4 things. wooden beams 50x100x2400 mm;
- 2 pcs. boards 20x100x3000 mm;
- 1 PC. - 20x150x3000 mm;
- 1 PC. - 20x200x3000 mm;
- 2 sheets of plywood 12x1200x2400 mm;
- screws 75 mm long;
- self-tapping screws for drywall 40 mm long;
- 8 pcs. screws in a hex head 6x150 mm with washers;
- 10 pieces. bolts 6x75 mm with nuts and washers;
- 2 pcs. bolt 6x150 mm with nuts and washers;
- wood putty;
- sandpaper;
- screwdriver;
- circular saw or hacksaw;
- jigsaw;
- milling cutter;
- drill;
- roulette;
- level.
When all the materials and tools are collected, get to work.
- Cut the material according to the drawing.
- Keep in mind that the size of the frame for the berth must exceed the dimensions of the mattress by 80 mm in length and 100 mm in width. On the side where the ladder will be attached, add another 45 mm.
- At all outer edges, cut a chamfer, you can use a hand plow. Sand and grind the details.
- Make markings for fasteners on all parts.
- Assemble the upper and lower frames from the cut beams, fasten them with screws. Make at least one baffle to reinforce the structure.
- Using self-tapping screws, screw the 20x150 board to the two adjacent sides of the frame, and 20x200 to the other. They will serve as bumpers.
- For the corner support leg, connect the 50x100 bars along the length at an angle of 90 degrees so that the end is L-shaped.
- Drill a hole in the support at the place where the upper tier is attached. Do the same in a frame with a 200 mm rim. Drill them out wider so you can hide the screw head and nut and washer.
- Screw the frame to the rack with the screws.
- Now attach the structure to the walls. If the wall is plasterboard, the fasteners must pass through the rack profiles, otherwise it will pop out. Mark the attachment points by leaning the frame against the wall. Level it up with a level.
- Drill through holes in the frame and wall through the profiles and screw in the hex screws to lock them into the profiles.
- If the wall is brick, drill the holes with a puncher, and fasten the frame with anchors.
- Do the same with the second frame.
- Assemble the railing of the upper berth, screw it to the frame and the wall.
- Assemble a ladder from two bars and crossbars, attach it to the supporting frames.
- The ladder can be either attached or built-in. For the built-in one, make cutouts, they will come in handy when attaching frames.
- Screw the plywood onto the upper and lower frames, on which the mattress will fit. Make the base for it from slats.
- Fasten the bars to the bar of the supporting frame, put the slats between them. For strength, it is better to nail them to the bar.
- Now all that remains is to putty the heads of the screws, clean with sandpaper and varnish or paint the bed.
Advice. If you decide to make a bed from chipboard, assemble it on confirms - Euro screws. They hold chipboard much stronger. The slats for the mattress and the rungs of the stairs should be made of wood. It is not recommended to make boxes on the upper tier due to the large weight of the chipboard, this will make the structure heavier.
How to make a solid wood bunk bed - video
We make two tiers from one
If you already have a bunk bed, you can use it to build a bunk bed. In this case, the bed frame will serve as the base. The upper frame is made to measure. In order for the structure to be stable, withstand many kilograms and not collapse, the frame fastening to the supports must be strong.
A bed with a sofa on the first tier is assembled in the same way. Only in this case, a frame is made, the dimensions of which must correspond to the dimensions of the lower part of the sofa.
How to assemble a pull-out model
A pull-out bed is the most comfortable and safe for a child's room. The height of the upper berth is slightly more than 70 cm. During the day, the lower tier moves in, additional space appears for children to play and work. At night you will have an extra bed. A distinctive feature of the model - the beds are not interconnected, they can be used separately.
Making such a bed is not difficult. All details are made of chipboard or chipboard furniture board.
- Make the base of the bed out of a solid 18 mm board, which is attached to the sides with a minifix and two dowels on each side.
- Additionally, reinforce the structure with a metal corner in the head and legs from the bottom of the bottom, on the sides - from the top.
- Also attach the sides to the bottom on four minifixes and three dowels each. Connect them to the side walls with a wide-head bolt.
- Attach four wheels to the side walls of the lower part. Saw radius recesses under them, place metal plates on top.
A pull-out bed has many advantages: space saving, ease of manufacture and additional sleeping space. The only drawback of the design is the lack of a box for storing bedding.
The most durable option is a metal pipe bed
The construction of a metal bed is simple, but very difficult to assemble. This requires the skills of welding, metal cutting and the appropriate equipment.
Manufacturing stages.
- To assemble the frame, use a 45x50 mm metal corner. At the ends of the pipes, cut out sections and connect with the drawers for a tight fit. Use a 65x32 mm channel.
- Weld the frame, carefully making sure that the corners are straight and the details are parallel.
- Cut the uprights from a thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Weld the frames to them, process the seams.
- The sides are made of metal rods in the form of a fence with a railing.
- Weld the ladder from the pipe and attach it to the bed.
Plywood frame folding structure
Another option for a comfortable, practical and inexpensive bed is a folding bed. It practically does not take up space in the room and is made of available material - plywood.
Do-it-yourself folding bunk bed - video
As the saying goes, it is not the gods who burn the pots. Even if you have no experience in making furniture, you can make a simple version of a bunk bed. Get creative and in a good mood. Good luck, you will succeed!
Quite simply, the bunk bed you are about to draw will require concentration. The dimensions of any product depend on the size of the room, the height of the ceilings, the availability of free space, blank walls. And the staircase to the second tier also requires space, so you will have to add 5-7 centimeters in width to the place where the staircase will adjoin.
However, see the drawings: there are several of them, it is possible that some option will be ideal. Otherwise, adjust the dimensions.
DIY bunk bed: drawings in the studio!
For children, there are certain furniture standards: a berth - one and a half meters plus 8 cm, width - 70 cm plus 10 cm, the width of the space under the stairs adds an additional 5 centimeters.
I just want to shout: "Drawings in the studio!" But here it’s just the height that needs to be dealt with. The higher - the warmer: the law of physics, so the second bed or the upper tier of the loft bed should not be done under the very ceiling. Children love to play at heights, so make sure they don't fall to the floor without injuries that are incompatible with life. And it's even better that only bruises and a couple of bumps remain or even without them: here the railing will come to the rescue.
It is forbidden to make a low bed!
But you shouldn't make a low bed either: the height of the child is such that his head is not at all obliged to touch the upper berth, besides, adults also like to sit down on the lower floor with their child. So the drawing must also meet these requirements, so measure the child's height on the condition that he still grows up. And do not forget about the ceiling: in Khrushchev it is 2500 cm. Subtract the thickness of the mattress right away? This is about 20 centimeters and only now start competent calculations. The standard version is 180x80 cm.
Choosing a material
Pine is quite acceptable for one's own hands, and besides, it is soft and cheap. To build a frame, you will need a timber: 140x18 and 140x30. Thick plywood - on the bed, but better buy a metal ladder. If there is no plywood, then you can buy chipboard, only laminated. It is harder to work with it, but it is also possible if you have a power tool at hand.
DIY bunk bed + drawings and wallet
The basis for a children's mattress is 185 by 90 cm, but these dimensions do not have to be taken into account: it depends on how much your child weighs and how tall he is. Risers are better to buy: the market offers plastic-coated steel pipes. Buy fasteners in the same place as the plugs so that curious children did not try to unscrew the washers and ruin the structure.
How to make a bunk bed yourself. Video
- Algorithm of the manufacturing process
- What needs to be considered
- How to create a robust wireframe
- Installation technology
- Option with laminated chipboard
If a second child has appeared in the family, then in order to save space in the bedroom and money in the wallet, a do-it-yourself children's bunk bed is perfect. The process itself implies the availability of the necessary tools:
- Pliers, hammer and screwdriver
- Electric drill or screwdriver
- Level, tape measure, gon
- Saws, a hacksaw will do
- Clamps
- Electric jigsaw
Making a bunk bed with your own hands is not difficult if you have certain skills in such work. It is also important to have a good idea of the end result, which is a significant incentive. Knowing where the bed will be located, you can make sure in advance that it fits perfectly into the interior of the children's room. It is necessary to take into account the size of the bed and relate them to the prepared materials. In the process of work you will need:
- Four beams of wood, two and a half meters long
- Four beams of wood, three meters long
- Four boards of three meters long
- Slats or two plywood sheets about twelve millimeters thick (chipboard can be used instead of plywood)
- Screws seventy-five millimeters long
- Eight 6mm hex head screws
- Ten bolts 6mm, seventy five millimeters long with washers and nuts
- Wood putty
- Self-tapping screws
- Two bolts one hundred and fifty millimeters long with washers and nuts
- Sandpaper
- Polyurethane
Algorithm of the manufacturing process
You need to carefully assemble a children's bunk bed with your own hands: it will serve the children well, and will become, in a sense, another home for them.
Here it is better to cut it off once, but it is necessary to measure it seven times so that the product matches the interior and is reliable in all respects. The process is simple, but in everything it requires precision and accuracy.
- It is first necessary to mark on the supporting structures of a simple product a location for fixing wooden boxes for laying mattresses
- Then you need to drill through the holes for the fastening screws, which are needed for rigid fastening of wooden boxes, which are intended for mattresses
- Similarly, you need to make a hole for each screw on both sides of the longitudinal bars.
- Then it is necessary, pressing the lower longitudinal bar to the first wall, fasten them with a screw, and do the same with the second wall of the support
- Similarly, install the upper longitudinal bars, which serve as the base for the mattresses - as a result, you will get the supporting structure of the product
- It is necessary to fix the transverse bars under the future bed for the child.
This operation applies to both the lower and upper tiers. We firmly fix them with screws to the bars at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other
- Now it's time to sheathe the frame of the box with boards on the side. Countersunk screws are best suited for this sheathing.
- It is necessary to attach the side-shields, which will prevent the accidental fall of the sleeping child
- We firmly fasten the stairs to the upper floor with screws
What you need to consider when getting down to business
You need firm confidence in what size the berth will have and on which side to install the vertical ladder. The size of the bed is about eight centimeters longer than the sleeping place in length and ten centimeters in width. The ladder increases the size of the product by about 4.5 centimeters.
To choose the optimal bed height, you need to take into account the height of the ceiling in the children's room. The distance between the second and first tiers is of great importance. There should be enough space so that the mother could sit down with the child if necessary.
The uprights and ladders require solid wood bars and planks. End panels are the same for the entire product, this simplifies their preparation. The side panels are equal in width to the end panels, which gives the bed an aesthetic completeness. The unevenness of their connection with each other ensures the originality of the composition.
Based on the size of the mattresses to be laid on the bed, then you need to increase the size on each side by two centimeters. This will make it easier to tuck the bedding. The convenience of the product is the most important guideline in this work.
As for the first tier, its lowest position as a new berth can be established by taking as the basis of calculations the height overcome by the baby with almost no effort on his part. Usually it is up to thirty-five centimeters for a child who is not yet three years old. Accordingly, the frame for laying the mattress will be lower by its thickness. But for the second tier, its maximum upper position is set taking into account the fact that an older child, whose bedroom is upstairs, could, if desired, sit down on the lower floor and at the same time not touch the second flooring with his head.
How to create a robust wireframe
In the frame of a children's bunk bed, its reliability comes first, and the aesthetic side remains in the background. The bars must be firmly connected with screws. As a result, two frames of approximately the same type come out. Aesthetically, they complement each other perfectly.
The board must be screwed to the end and one side, taking into account the importance of this fastening. It is better to screw in the self-tapping screws from the inside and make sure that they do not go right through the board. For short self-tapping screws, it is permissible to drill large holes using a depth gauge on the drill.
The side is also placed on the second frame. It is best to hide the fastening holes with a putty, after it dries, sand it with sandpaper. The length of the leg should be in harmony with the height of the fence. The main thing is that the leg can withstand the expected load.
A hole must be made in the leg where the second tier will be attached, and about the same hole in the frame with the rim. In the leg, such recesses are still needed, which would make it possible to easily hide both the hexagonal head of the screw and the washer. The hole should be so deep that the screw, piercing the side and the leg, is securely fixed in the bar.
The children's bunk bed has another discreet specificity. Under the first floor, you can arrange a small but rather cozy bed box and put many necessary things there, including sheets and pillowcases for the bed. The child can keep their favorite toys in this box. The drawer bezel is not as long as the side of the bed. Height - fully corresponds to the front panel of the first floor, which looks very aesthetically good, complementing the design of the children's room.
Installation technology
Whenever we are dealing with construction, even if it is a miniature construction, the choice of manufacturing technology and material comes first.
It is best to put a board made of wood as the basis of the design. Of course, its high-quality preparation requires some effort. It is necessary to level it using a plane, grind it with sandpaper, and then also pull it with varnish to extend the life of the product.
It costs nothing to establish the location of the racks if the walls are made of plasterboard. It is important to accurately determine the place where the hole is needed. An assistant will be needed here in order to support the frame from below, pressing it firmly against the walls.
The pilot holes must be made by drilling the post profile, drywall, and frame beams. It is necessary to prepare places for screwing in screws with hexagonal heads. A long drill is indispensable here. The screws must be screwed in so that they connect the necessary elements and are fixed in the racks. The lower tier is installed in a similar manner, that is, a frame with a side.
The fence is of great importance in the overall design, since it creates certain safety guarantees for children.
DIY bunk bed
The fence can be made from sturdy planks that are fixed to vertical posts. Self-tapping screws and here you must try to screw in from the inside. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that an opening must remain in the fence for the stairs leading to the second tier.
A vertical ladder is easier to manufacture and takes up less space than an inclined ladder. First of all, it is necessary to properly secure two beams that will guide the movement of the child when ascending and descending. The steps for it are securely fixed with 6 mm bolts. Longer bolts should be used when attaching the top step with synchronous fixation of the ladder to the bed.
Option with laminated chipboard
Of course, the wood needs a lot of pretreatment. If, instead of wood, in the manufacture of a children's bunk bed, laminated chipboard is used, then part of the technological operations will remain on the sidelines of the process. Instead, you will only need to process and stick the edge on the chipboard cuts. In practice, you will gain in time, the appearance will also gain a little.
Laminated chipboard has good wear resistance and strength characteristics.
It is necessary to saw laminated chipboard on the street, but the final work, with minimal dust and smell, can be done comfortably in the apartment. It is necessary to take into account the difference in the quality and specificity of the material and to introduce individual refinements into the manufacturing technology. As such, they are not very significant. A children's bed from a laminated plate will come out several times heavier than from a board, but the product will gain additional stability.
When using chipboard, you will need tools that are completely different than in the case of wood:
- Portable hand circular
- For gluing the safety edge - iron
- Screwdriver with bits and drills
- Work gloves and knife
- Ruler, tape measure, pencil
To make a children's bunk bed with good quality, you will need not only laminated chipboard as a material, but also an edge, glue, sandpaper, wood will only be needed for a ladder leading to the second tier.
A big plus in this case is the limited number of technological operations in the process of work. These should include only
- Having a good project with the subsequent transfer of data to the laminated board
- Edge gluing on chipboard
- Careful and even cut
- Chipboard fixation with self-tapping screws
Fasteners and bed finishes
Connecting parts of a children's bunk bed is critical. It is best to properly connect the uprights and side panels at the beginning of the process, then firmly fix the end panels to the side panels. The result is a solid and reliable support structure. The frame intended for the mattress is just supported by the bars attached from the inside to the side panels.
As a result, the upper tier has two boxes: with narrow panels and wide end panels. Meanwhile, at the bottom tier, narrow panels from the end will already be outside the box. This is not in vain, because they have a special role. They are fixed with spikes and bolts in the lower part to the bed racks, overlapping the joining of two levels, being a spacer, which completely eliminates the displacement of the racks of the lower tier in relation to the upper one. With regard to the displacement in the direction of the longitudinal axis, then plug-in pins protect against it in the joint area.
In addition, all panels have additional fasteners; they are fixed to each other with glue-on studs. They can be fixed to the uprights using special furniture bolts with decorative heads. Similarly, you need to consider the fasteners of the stairs leading up. The stability of the entire product also depends on it.
Decorating a children's bunk bed has both aesthetic and practical value. Meticulous polishing of the blanks before they begin to be assembled into a kind of two-story complex helps the new furniture fit into the existing design and increases the service life. The same can be said for multi-layer enamel painting. Nice, but also useful for wood, which makes the product look even more attractive.
Making a bed from chipboard with your own hands is very simple
Beds are used in very different ways and every adult understands this. Hedonists prefer to recline on eight-seater nigdroms in the company of beautiful odalisques, while a Red Army private dreams of a trestle bed closer to the stove. The middle option is a bed without frills, but multipurpose. A bed made of chipboard, made with your own hands, can satisfy the needs of people of different classes and inclinations, if you think over its design.
We will make such a bed from chipboard
Chipboard bed structure
Nature teaches us: The best solution is always the simplest. A minimum of parts - maximum efficiency and strength. An example of this is amoeba, ciliates and other small rubbish. They are able to outlive anyone, and they wanted to spit on the changes in the situation. The base of our bed must be durable and indifferent, which is why we choose a box-shaped structure without legs.
If we take an average model with the dimensions of the parts fitted to a standard chipboard sheet, then we will make it under a spring mattress of 2000x1400x200 millimeters. Such a bed can be considered a double bed if your belly does not prevent you from tying your laces, and your wife's dress fits in her cosmetic bag.
The bottom of the bed in the photo is plywood - but this option is for mass production. In a single case, it is easier to purchase one sheet of laminated chipboard and one sheet of a cheaper one - sanded. The bottom will turn out to be one-piece, not composite, which is constructively much more profitable.
Chipboard bed details
If you make a bed from chipboard with your own hands, you will have to order sawing from companies equipped with a professional cutting machine. It makes no sense to spoil the materials yourself at home, when there is an opportunity to blame the failure on specialists and force them to remake the defective fragments.
List of 16 mm laminated chipboard parts:
- 1432x700 mm - headboard blank. You can give it a roundness with an electric jigsaw, or you can immediately puzzle the sawmakers with this question and overpay for a curly neckline.
- 1432x350 mm - foot.
- 2000x350 mm - 2 pcs. Sidewalls.
From the chipboard sheet, you will still have a bunch of scraps, on which it makes sense to practice in subsequent operations, such as gluing the edge and drilling.
Details from polished chipboard (no one will see them):
- 2000x1400 - the bottom of the bed.
- 1400x300 - 2 pcs. Partitions, one of which can be ordered from a laminate, if the grinding turns out to be less than the standard size (it happens).
DIY children's bunk bed: drawings, diagrams, photos
Draw to scale the location of the parts on each sheet and give the drawing to the sawman - this will be more reliable.
Fasteners and fittings for the bed
Before making a bed from chipboard, it is necessary to clearly understand its structure and determine the degree of reliability of the fasteners. The second picture shows a cutaway bed with partitions. All ties are carried out by means of confirmations and are additionally duplicated by metal corners of 30x30 millimeters. The corners should be "sharpened" for 4x16 mm self-tapping screws.
Bed assembly diagram
Precisely these corners will serve as additional support for the bed bottom. As you can see in the drawing, they need to be screwed along the entire perimeter of the box - that is, to the backs and sides. Naturally, the level of the upper "shoulder" of the corners should coincide with the height of the partitions = 300 mm.
From the bottom to the backs and sides, you can (but not necessarily) attach the so-called "hooves" - plastic legs that protect the floor from scratches when moving the bed. They will also allow you to adjust the level of a structure standing on an uneven floor.
Important! This bed must be positioned in such a way that none of its corners "hang in the air". Under the weight of the spring mattress and of the people themselves, of course, it will stand on all supports, but at the same time the tension in the material will create a threat of destruction.
An insufficiently flat or bumpy floor is the main enemy of all chipboard products.
Assembling the bed
Our regular friends have already read about the method of edging parts at home. The rest will be voiced additionally.
A regular melamine edge with a thickness of 16 mm with an adhesive base is perfectly glued to the end of the parts using an iron heated to three quarters of the power. Iron it gently several times and run over with a dry cloth to help the edges adhere better.
The edge is slightly wider than the chipboard and the edges of the glued parts must be sanded with fine-grained emery paper, after cutting off the excess plastic with a blunt knife. Sharp ones will easily damage the laminate, which will not make the bed look beautiful.
Confirmations do not fundamentally differ from standard self-tapping screws - the only difference is in size. We drill the plane through, with a diameter of 8 mm, and the end of the part to be fastened with a 5 mm drill and to a depth of about 60 mm.
The dimensions are indicated for confirmations 5x70 mm, which are easy to buy in furniture fittings stores.
At what distance from each other the partitions are fastened - it does not matter. The main thing is that they are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the sidewalls. About a third of the length from the backs - and without a micrometer.
Separately, neither the confirmation screed, nor the corners will give you the required structural strength, so duplicate and do not be lazy. The bottom can be simply put on top, but it is better to put the bed “on the bottom” and fix it with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the corners.
Actually, by this time it is already clear how to make a bed out of chipboard with your own hands ... It remains only to put a mattress on the bottom, and on top of the mattress something attractive, like a beloved wife or a teddy bear. But this is for your taste.
Here we tried to illustrate the simplicity of making any furniture from chipboard for a person who is not afraid of a drill and a hammer. There is absolutely no need to overpay exorbitant amounts when shopping in stores: having understood the basic principle, you can build even the most exotic furniture options with your own hands.
Good luck to you.
Bunk bed for children: types and instructions on how to do it yourself
DIY children's bunk bed
A bunk bed is not just a relaxation and sleeping area for a child, it is a place where children will play, grow and develop. Because of her, children will often have disputes over who to sleep on the lower, to whom the upper tier of the bed. For parents, such a sleeping place is also very beneficial. It takes up little space in the room compared to two opposite beds.
DIY children's bunk bed
There are a lot of different models of beds. You can always choose an option that will appeal to both you and your baby. But such a purchase has one significant drawback - it will cut a serious hole in the family budget. Therefore, you should think about the possibility of making such a bed yourself at home.
How to make a bunk bed. Bunk bed drawings, detailing, assembly order
There are also many advantages of this method: the furniture will be made according to individual sizes and sketches, and you can also significantly save on components and the work of the master. And who does not dream of earning the glory of a folk craftsman and craftsman?
Beginning of work
Children's bunk bed
So, before you start making a children's bunk bed with your own hands, you need to determine the place in the room where it will be installed, as well as purchase a ready-made mattress and measure all the necessary dimensions of the future piece of furniture. But it is worth remembering that the bed is not made for one year, and therefore it is worth buying a mattress and making the bed itself for growth.
After the mattress is purchased, you can start drawing the plan for the future bed, indicating all the parameters. And do not think that you can do without a drawing and do everything by eye. Such a complex thing as a children's bunk bed with your own hands in autumn is difficult to do without drawings.
The preparation of lumber for the bed should be started based on the following dimensions:
- the height of the bed will be approximately 1500 mm;
- optimal width - 900 mm;
- standard length - 2100 mm;
- height from floor to bottom tier - 230 mm.
A bunk bed is needed not only for the younger generation: in a small apartment or a compact country house, it can solve the problem of adult sleeping places. But there are almost exclusively children's bunk beds on sale, and they are not cheap. Meanwhile, a bunk bed may well be made with your own hands from available materials by a novice master who has a very general idea of carpentry. All you need is a small workshop in the garage, shed or on the balcony - you still won't be able to build a bed on the floor in the living room. In this article we will see what and how it is possible to craft, if the question arose: where is he (she) to sleep?
You can make a bunk bed for two children, as well as for adults and a child, made of solid wood or MDF, see fig. In the latter case, the child's sleeping place is located upstairs: this makes it easier to ensure the strength of the bed. True, it is also easier for a curious offspring to spy on mom and dad from there, so the option with an adult rookery at the top is also possible, see below.
If the bed is only for children, then often the upper tier is combined with a playhouse (item 1 in the next figure) or the entire bed with a work area (item 2). Corner bunk beds of the "closed corner" type (pos. 3) are mainly advisable in studio apartments to highlight a children's area, because they practically do not save living space. But as for the sofa or sofa bed with the upper sleeping tier (pos. 4), then the obvious overkill: making the stairs retractable is inconvenient for the child; the ladder is secured in place - how does an adult sit on a sofa? But for now we're going to get to the beds, which are just beds.
Notable designs
The search results for options for self-manufacturing of a bunk bed in Runet give, I must say, a completely positive result - with regard to children's beds. The user will find clear instructions, with drawings and material sheets, how to make this very bed. However, looking closely, you can understand that these are not the simplest, cheapest and most reliable options.
For example, in Fig. drawings and assembly diagram of the bed, described in detail on the website "Furniture Circle". It is quite suitable for its intended use. But let's take a closer look at the positions highlighted in red:
To assemble the bed (pad, sunbed, pos. 3), you need to make 12 mortise connections. Not to mention that it is not so easy, the stock frame made of 50x50 timber with so many inserts will not be very strong. If the children of the dear start a pillow fight on the bed, it may break. And it is difficult to fix, tk. the bed is integral to the power circuit of the bed. Therefore, the assembly of the product (pos. 5) is complicated: the beds are made first without platforms (tires), the bed is assembled on bolts, and only then the platforms are mounted. The bolt nuts are tightly closed; loose - you will not tighten. And they can become loose, tk. the beds hang on bolts that create significant concentrated loads on the tree. Conclusion: This bed will only allow its inhabitants to grow to an adult if it is made of high quality (and expensive) hardwood. Structurally and technologically unnecessarily complex.
The option of a bunk children's bed, which can be made of pine or spruce (see the figure on the right), is also described in detail even on several sites. The first thing that catches your eye is the high consumption of materials and labor for marking and sawing parts. The strength of a softwood bunk bed can be made easier, see below.
Secondly, the wood is suitable for this bed, though soft, but of high quality, without knots, twists, slanting, i.e. also not cheap. The reason is the lamellar stock, which is why it was necessary to additionally strengthen the corners, tk. the lamellas in the main power circuit do not work. Knots and other defects in wood, suddenly they appear in load-bearing parts, become centers of concentration (focuses) of loads, and the bed will not last long. A mattress laid on lamellas is, of course, more comfortable, but after all, both doctors and psychologists unequivocally say: it is not good for children to sleep on too soft. The children's bed should be a little harsh. Finally, this bed needs a lot of hardware visible from the outside.
But do not worry: it is still possible to make a reliable bunk bed out of wood that is at hand. A detailed video in 3 parts, how a person did-did, and still made a good bunk bed from knotty pine, see below:
Video: an example of making a bunk bed made of wood
Features of the power circuit
The authors of the above constructions are by no means hack or ignorant. They quite conscientiously approached the solution of the task before them, knowing about the increased requirements for the strength of a bunk bed. Blasting onto the floor from a height of 0.5 or 2 m are completely different things. Surely they also know that a bunk bed can form a very rigid box. Compared to a massive structure, the box-type one holds dynamic loads better, but worse static long-term ones.
But this is exactly what we need for a baby bed! Children, they are light, but angry. A bed for children should hold dynamics better than static ones. This circumstance is often not taken into account by professional furniture designers, unnecessarily strengthening (and increasing the cost) of children's beds. Amateur furniture design programs such as PRO100 also calculate children's beds using algorithms for adults. We will further figure out what can be achieved, taking into account the characteristics of a child, somewhere up to 15-16 years old, as a source of operational loads on the bed.
Note: that's what you definitely don't need to do with a bunk bed, it's to make it half-hanging with the support of the corners on the wall, see fig. on right. The difference between the bearing capacity of building structures, incl. wooden, and the furniture is so large that from the smallest dynamics either the bed will soon loosen, or the wall will crumble.
Making a bed
The main structural element providing the required performance of a bunk bed is its bed. If we manage to construct a bed made of wood that can withstand an adult uncle of 85-90 kg of live weight, being suspended from the ceiling on ropes, then such a bed can be either included in any box-type power circuit, or carry the load on its own.
Bed
A diagram of the bed arrangement for a bunk bed up to 2.1 m (7 ft) long and up to 0.9 m (3 ft) wide is shown in the figure:
With the sides, it is self-sufficient in relation to both the statics and dynamics of both children and adults and can simply be stacked in a box-shaped frame, the task of which is only to provide general rigidity. Without sides, the frame with a platform and a bottom is either rigidly fixed in a lightweight box, reinforcing it to the required degree, or fits into a pre-reinforced box. In any case, there is no fastener visible from the outside. The platform and the bottom are attached to the frame with 4x self-tapping screws (16 ... 25) with a pitch of 70 ... 150 mm. The corners of the frame and the places where the beams meet the ties must necessarily have hardware; the rest are distributed evenly along the contour. Just in case: a hardware, a hardware product is a threaded fastener.
Note: the bottom of the upper bed of the bunk bed is draped from below with any suitable upholstery fabric before being installed on the frame.
Examples of bed designs
The best way to use this bed in a children's bunk bed is to tear off the sides from it and include them in the power circuit of the box. The frame itself is a flat box, it will withstand the dynamics of children, and small statics will not load it much.
How a children's bunk bed works, in which these principles are implemented, is shown in Fig.:
The frame is assembled on dowels and glue from any available wood, even aspen or poplar. Together with the support frames made of pine cranial bars 60x60 (pos. 7 and 8 in the figure), the required overall rigidity is provided. The stock is simply stacked on the support frames. This approach gives a trace. Benefits:
- Simple construction of rectangular pieces;
- Any wood materials will be used for the frame, incl. plywood, MDF, chipboard;
- The frame is very strong, withstands overturning without damage;
- Freely removable beds give more opportunities for monitoring the sanitary condition of the bed and keeping it clean;
- There are no visible fasteners, and hidden ones can be used inexpensively.
Note: if the frame parts are made of MDF or chipboard, plastic dowels should be used, and wood mounting glue should be used.
This bed is going, so to speak, in the reverse order: children. 4 and 6 are attached to children. 1 self-tapping screws from the inside, and then using det. 2, 2a and 3, the frame is assembled on the dowels. After that, the support frames (parts 7 and 8) and the ladder are installed. The bed is ready, you can put the bed down and sleep. If it is not planned to separate this bed into two, then det. 1 make double the length (2000 mm). Then a detachable dowel connection (inset on the left in the figure) is not needed, and the frame will become even stronger.
A small drawback of this bed is the need for the sleeper upstairs to climb over the fence (det. 6 in the figure). It is impossible to make the fence cut, it works in the power circuit. But make a recess in the fence above the stairs for half the width of children. 6 you can.
Note: children 3 cannot be removed from the lower section, they also work in the power circuit.
Per grandchildren
Another option for using a box-bed in a children's bunk bed is to leave the sides in it, and remove the headboard with a footboard. The sides will provide the proper resistance of the frame to longitudinal torsion, and it is already resistant to transverse torsion due to its small width.
The sides remaining on the frame will allow you to further improve the bed without significantly complicating it. How exactly - see the general view, dimensions and drawings in the figure:
For greater rigidity, the frame is assembled on carpentry spike-groove joints. An extra screed was added to the frame, which made it possible to reduce the thickness of the frame by half, to 30 mm, and instead of a more expensive timber, use a thirty-plank that was loose along the length. Moreover, the bed turns out to be even excessively rigid, and it became possible to make the bed collapsible without tools. The bed with the backs is connected with steel locks (pos. 10 in the figure); these are sold in furniture stores specifically for this purpose. When the children grow up, the bed can be hidden in the grandchildren's closet or sold on occasion.
Note: the sides are connected to the frame with 30x8 oak dowels with a pitch of 120 ... 150 mm on wood mounting glue. All other joinery connections are also glued.
Or maybe a corner?
As mentioned above, a bunk bed of the "closed corner" layout practically does not save space in the room. In small-sized housing made of corner bunk beds, an "open corner" type bed, combined with a bedside table and a children's utility corner, may be useful. The optimal dimensions of a children's bunk bed "closed corner" with a utility block for small ones, see fig. on right.
And for the big ones too
In the same small apartment, or, preferably, in a small country house, a bunk bed with an adult sleeping place upstairs may be comfortable. The simplest option is a bed on a welded steel tube frame.
General view and dimensions of a steel welded bunk bed are given in Fig.:
The frame is designed for a standard armor mesh bed. In a homemade bed for a summer residence (such a house, of course, will not fit in design, even in a loft), you can refuse to install platforms in locks, weld support frames from a corner from 40x25, fasten them to the backs with bolts, and make the bed described above.
In a small apartment, it will be more convenient to have a multifunctional sleeping corner with an adult bed upstairs. In this case, the adult bed can be made designed mainly for static loads, from a solid sheet of chipboard. A children's sleeping place (s) for the night are equipped at the bottom, from where nothing can be seen upward.
Drawings and a material sheet of a multifunctional bunk sleeping block (you just can't call it a bed) are given in Fig.:
The upper adult bed is rectangular, so it is necessary for its strength. The platform next to it with a beveled corner serves as a bedside table. The little ones can pile toys there if they climb up during the day to isolate themselves. Downstairs, adults can sit, dine, work at the table, and children play. In the same place, below, it is possible to equip 1-2 children's night beds with the help of removable soft sides - any of the lower tables or a shelf between them turns into a sofa by installing a foam block covered with furniture fabric. In general, this multifunctional is useful for a bachelor, and a young family, and in a cramped apartment, and in the country.
Is it only a tree?
Beds made of MDF or chipboard look, of course, more elegant than simple wooden ones. Especially - bunk (see photo below), the high backs of which are difficult to disguise in the interior. However, MDF and chipboard require special care in work and some special tools (jigsaw, hand-held wood router) - if you scratch the coating, the scratch will remain.
Second, the ratio of the characteristics of the strength of MDF and laminated chipboard in compression, bending, torsion and shear is completely different from that of wood. In addition, MDF and laminated chipboard are practically homogeneous: to distinguish directions in them along the fibers, along the layer, etc. impossible. Therefore, it is impossible to fasten parts made of MDF and chipboard with joinery joints: a spike or a tooth will break from a small load. Fastened with MDF and laminated chipboard with furniture screws - confirmations. Dowel joints are used if it is impossible to connect with confirmations in any way, for example, for connections that must be hidden. There should be as few dowels as possible in products made of MDF or chipboard, and only plastic ones.
DIY items are gaining more and more popularity. Including furniture. It will take a while, so you have to be patient. But there are a lot of advantages in creating the necessary things with your own hands.
Surely you have already met a variety of ideas for creating sofas or other garden furniture from pallets. An interesting solution for different applications. But today we are going to talk about how to create furniture for your home.
In particular, how to make a bunk bed with your own hands.
Why is it better to make a bed rather than buy? There are many answers. To begin with, when creating, you choose the material yourself, and you know exactly its characteristics: strength, reliability. Upon completion of the project, you will definitely be sure that this creation will last a long time, and will not crumble upon the first use.
Creativity plays an important role in preparing for work.
There are times when in a store a customer cannot find what he needs. This is especially true of furniture: the size does not fit, the design is not pleasant, it looks sloppy and there are many other reasons. There are two ways out of this situation: place an individual order or make everything with your own hands. Choosing the second option, you do not have to explain to the contractor what exactly you want and pay a huge amount of money for the execution of the order.
You can embody all ideas to the utmost detail.
And, of course, one of the main advantages of creating furniture yourself is satisfaction with the result of your own work. It's nice to know that you've done the thing yourself.
Making furniture with your own hands, you win in:
- Price;
- Quality;
- Design
- Measurement accuracy.
The only drawback is that the process will take longer than the purchase.
So if you make up your mind make a bunk bed with your own hands - let's get started!
Choosing a design and construction
There are a lot of varieties of two-tier models - as far as imagination is enough. Let's consider the most popular ones.
- Traditional
The easiest to manufacture. Consists of two tiers ( sleeping places ) and stairs. Suitable for a nursery with enough space.
Such a bed does not contain elements of other furniture and significantly saves space.
- With sofa
The sofa on the first tier diversifies both aesthetically and functionally. This model will save more space in the room because you don't need an extra sofa. It can be used as a bed or simply as a place to relax. Well suited for placement in the living room.
For the manufacture of this model, you will additionally need a sofa. It will be built into the design.
- With drawers
In this model, drawers or shelves are attached to the stairs leading to the second floor, which are used instead of cabinets. In this case, it will take up a little more space in the room than traditional.
You can save space with linen cupboards or toy cupboards.
- "Attic"
This option significantly saves space in room. Sleeping place located on the second tier, the lower one is for the working area. Usually it includes a table for work, various shelves and racks. This design is usually chosen for older children (adolescents, students). Basically, such a bed is a single bed, but if desired, the second tier will accommodate two. You can build it corner with two sleeping places On the second floor. An important condition for the design of this model is strength.
The height of the ceilings should be taken into account, since the lower tier must be high enough.
- Three-bedroom bunk
There are various proposals to make a bunk bed a triple. If child still small, besides an apartment one-room , you can do it with double bed on the first tier. If this product is for baby - both places can be located at the top.
The bed option will depend on the blueprint you choose.
- Transformer
Such models are very popular as they save a lot of space. It consists of a table, cupboards and sleeping place ... A table or a mattress can be retractable.
If you do not have enough free space in the room, and the child is already attending school, you should think about this type of product.
Preparation
We figured out which models are the most "popular" and comfortable, now we will decide what is needed in order to start building a bunk bed.
First of all necessary draw a drawing. The most convenient option would be to take ready-made schemes on the Internet, and, focusing on them, create your own project.
You will need to measure the part of the room where the product will be located and determine the size of the structure.
The drawing uses the following data:
- Product height;
- Length;
- Width;
- Distance from the top and bottom tier;
- Staircase length and width;
- Space between stair treads;
- Height of the upper tier;
- The width of the bearing beams;
- The sizes of the lockers.
If you are planning lockers, be careful when calculating the distance to place them.
Photos of ready-made options will help you to clearly determine how to make a drawing correctly.
Materials (edit)
When choosing materials, consider your skills and the range of tools available. Particleboard or solid pine is great for work. Let's prepare the tools that we need for work.
You can use sheets of plywood for the base under the mattress.
Depending on whether you will cut the material yourself or entrust it to professionals, we select a set of necessary tools. The best option would be to saw the boards according to measurements with professional devices in a furniture workshop. Then you just have to connect all the parts.
We need instruments and devices for measuring, fixing. You can't do without a simple pencil.
To do this, you will need: a screwdriver, screws, glue, a level, a drill, a hammer, a grinder for processing the finished product, a blank material cut according to measurements.
It will not be difficult to make bunk furniture if you prepare all the necessary tools and remember the existing construction skills.
Getting Started
So, all the preparations are complete, you can start making a bunk bed with your own hands.
Now let's move on to creating the back.
Make the second tier in the same way.
Using self-tapping screws and the method of joining parts "under the sweep", attach the ladder to one of the posts.
If necessary, you can attach the railings to the upper bunk.
If the design assumes the presence of boxes, then the ladder must be attached from the outside to the load-bearing rack ... Now attach the boxes to the stairs according to the drawing.
Decorating
It is worth thinking about the decor before starting production, as it can affect the project. For experienced craftsmen, it is possible to make furniture in the form of a house, car, or boat. You can attach "branches" instead of stairs, along which "young Mowgli" will climb to the second floor.
An experienced craftsman makes a bed that looks like it has come down from the pages of a book with fairy tales.
A common option is to add a swiss wall, athletic rings, or rope. Slide-type beds have become very popular.
You can implement any design, depending on the imagination and skill of the master.
If you have built a classic model of a bunk bed, and only thought about design later, then use any textiles for decoration: pillows, hanging decorations. attach the rope.
There are tons of options that creative people can easily find.
In general, making a bunk bed with your own hands is not so difficult, besides, it is profitable and beautiful.
We wish you success in your work!
VIDEO: Instructions for assembling a bunk bed.
50 DIY Photo Ideas for Double Beds:
A bunk bed is not much different from the usual one: a frame, but a large height, and two bottoms instead of one. Making it yourself is almost as easy as assembling it. The only difference is the need to independently determine the dimensions of the structure and purchase materials.
How to make a bunk bed with your own hands? Judging by the range of products in the store, then wood fiber material is quite suitable for a baby bed - MDF, fiberboard, OSB. But, firstly, you still need to use not every fiberboard, but only the one in whose passport a low emission class is indicated. And secondly, making a bed from wooden boards is not at all difficult, and this material is much safer and more reliable.
Bunk bed made of solid pine (photo)
The most affordable option is solid pine. Wood is cheap, so picking up the right amount of the first grade of labor will not be. Much more expensive is oak or beech. It is harder, it is harder to work with it, but an oak product has served for decades.
In any case, the wood must be well dried - no more than 18% moisture, and treated with antiseptic agents. It is recommended to purchase planed boards.
For a bunk bed you will need:
- wooden bar for racks - 10 * 5 mm;
- ladder bar - 4 * 6 cm;
- board for spacers and sides - 10 * 2 cm, 15 * 2 cm, 20 * 2 cm;
- plywood for the bottom or a set of slats with lateral holders - the latter option is preferable.
Fasteners - screws, self-tapping screws, screws, metal corners, glue.
Sandpaper is required to clean the edges and edges, and a plastic edging or thermal tape is required to seal the edges.
The following tools will be required:
- screwdriver or drill with an appropriate attachment;
- jigsaw,
- hammer, screwdrivers, pliers;
- square, tape measure and building level.
Schemes and drawings
Making any design of a bunk children's bed with your own hands begins with a drawing. Moreover, this drawing must be done independently. Ready-made diagrams and drawings of bunk beds with your own hands are not always suitable and here's why.
- The defining parameter for the size of a bunk bed with your own hands is not so much the width and length as the height. If it is assumed that children will sleep on it for several years, then the sizes are selected with a large margin. Most often these are standard - 90 * 190 cm. Alternatively, you can measure the mattress that will be used and determine the parameters of the lounger by its width and length. In this case, the length of the bed should exceed the length of the mattress by 8 cm, and the width by 10 cm.
- The height is determined by the height of the ceiling in the room. A child on the second tier should not only sit freely, but also move. In addition, the ceiling hanging directly over the face is very unpleasant. The minimum is that a sitting child should not reach the ceiling with his raised hand.
- The distance between the first and second tier is selected based on the same principles. The easiest way to do this for an adult: sitting on the second tier, dad does not touch the bottom of the upper bed with his head.
- The distance between the bottom of the lower bed and the floor is at least 30 cm.
- When calculating the ratio, you need to take into account the thickness of both mattresses.
Drawing is required. Moreover, schemes of two loungers, the facade of the structure and the end are required. It is necessary to draw the diagram, taking into account the scale, and in as much detail as possible. Using such a drawing, it is much easier to calculate the required amount of materials.
If you use a ready-made scheme of a bunk bed with your own hands, found on the pages of the site, you need to make sure that the dimensions indicated on it are suitable for a nursery. They can only be changed proportionally: you cannot simply increase the height of the bunk bed by 30 cm and place the lower lounger higher. Any change affects the stability of the structure. This requires compensation both by adjusting other parameters and the overall reinforcement of the frame.
DIY bunk bed drawing
Manufacturing and assembly process
We make a bunk bed with our own hands. The timber and boards must be kept indoors for several days before assembling the product in order for the tree to acclimatize. In this simple way, warping and drying out of the material is prevented.
You can cut the boards yourself, or you can order a cut to size at the place of purchase.
- The first step is to make bed frames. To do this, a bar with a section of 5 * 10 mm is fastened in the form of a rectangle according to the size of the lounger. The best fastening is by the spike-in-groove method with wood glue, but this option is possible only if you have a milling tool. If this is not possible, the connection is made to metal corners.
- A spacer is installed in the frame from the same timber or board 10 * 2 cm, having previously cut it off in width. Depending on the expected load of the spacers, there can be from 1 to 4.
- The sides are screwed to the frame: from a board with a section of 15 * 2 cm for the lower bed and 20 * 2 cm for the upper one. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside and make sure that they do not go through the side.
- 4 racks are made for the frame. To do this, 2 bars with a cross section of 5 * 10 mm and a length equal to the height of the bed together with the fence of the second tier are fastened two at a time so that they form an L-shaped profile. In this case, the self-tapping screw is sunk in the tree, and the grooves are putty and sanded with sandpaper.
- At the height of the first and second levels, holes are made in the finished supports for the fastening screw. The same holes are made in the frames of the sun loungers.
- It is recommended to fix the structure to the wall. To do this, the upper level is fixed to the vertical risers with screws. Then the product is applied to the wall to mark the fixation points. At this stage, you cannot do without an assistant, since the mount must be rigid. Holes are drilled in the wall at the level of the second tier, then the corresponding holes are made in the bed itself so that it passes through the beam of the frame and the rack. The structure is firmly pressed against the wall and fixed with screws.
If the bed is installed differently, then the attachment to the walls is not performed.
- The first level is mounted - metal corners are used for reliability.
- On the second level, the sides are made: boards measuring 20 * 2 cm are fixed on the racks. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside, the holes are sealed as described above. On the site where they plan to install the stairs, the sides are not attached.
- For the stairs, two 4 * 6 cm beams are fixed on the bed frame - both the upper and lower ones. Install the crossbeams, fixing them with self-tapping screws.
- A plywood sheet is laid on the frame - the bottom, or the slats are fixed on the lath holders.
The structure, if necessary, is sanded, opened with a matte or glossy varnish. The edges are sealed with thermal tape or plastic edging.
How to make a wooden bunk bed with your own hands (video):
DIY metal bunk bed
The design of a metal bunk children's bed with your own hands is even simpler than a wooden one. But assembling it is much more difficult: it requires a welding machine and some experience in handling it.
- For the frame of the lounger, a 45 * 50 mm metal corner is used. The product is cut to size - with a hacksaw for metal or a grinder. At the ends of the corners, sections are cut out for a tighter joining and connected to the sidebars - channel 65 * 32 mm. Parts are welded, checking the parallelism of the elements and the value of the right angle.
- There are no sides in the metal structure.
- Vertical racks are cut from a thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. The frame of the sunbed is welded to the racks. All welds light up
- Bumpers for the upper tier, headboard and footboard are more often ordered in the workshop: forging, hot or cold, allows you to get not only durable, but also a beautiful product. However, they can also be assembled independently from a pipe of the same diameter and rods. In any case, the bumpers on the second tier in the form of a single curved rail will not work. The sides should be made like a railing with a transom filling.
Manufacturing video
- Most of the videos on making bunk beds with your own hands demonstrate only a few moments of assembly. The lion's share of them was filmed only for the purpose of acquaintance.
- Amateur videos are more often filmed by experienced DIYers: you can learn a lot here. But only interesting or important moments from the point of view of the performer are demonstrated here. The processes that he considers trivial or well-known to all are little covered.
- The most informative source for a beginner is instructions for assembling a finished wooden bed. Here, the material includes not only the installation sequence, but also a description of all required parts, dimensions and illustrations for fasteners.
Using the instructions and more detailed video material, it is quite possible to make a bunk bed.
A homemade bunk bed with your own hands is a practical and attractive solution for a nursery. Its design is quite simple, so a novice master can also make it. And it's even easier to arrange it to the taste of the child.
Assembly instructions for a finished wooden bunk bed (video):