How to pickle lily bulbs before planting. How to protect lilies from insects

Lilies - regal, majestic flowers - will adorn any garden area. It is impossible not to love lilies. No one remains indifferent when looking at these colorful, fragrant inflorescences. For all their beauty, they do not require much maintenance. Planting lilies in the spring is an easy way of breeding these long-flowered perennial crops, which, subject to the simple rules of planting and care, delight gardeners with flowering for up to 10 years.

When to plant lilies in open ground

The planting time of lilies in the ground is determined by the variety. In spring, it is good to plant bulbs of tiger, Tibetan, oriental, tubular, Asian hybrids. It is important to have time to plant the bulbs with sprouts up to 10 cm. If the sprouts are larger, it is better to put them sideways when planting. As soon as the snow melts from the site, you can start preparing the soil for the flower bed. IN southern regions in dry, hot weather, planting lilies in the spring in the ground is not recommended.

Planting of this perennial is carried out from late April to early May. To speed up flowering, lily bulbs can be germinated before planting. For this, a container with damp moss, sawdust, coconut substrate, standing in a warm, sunny place, is suitable. The main requirement is to protect it from drying out, waterlogging. When the weather is right, the strong-growing bulbs can be planted in the flower bed.

Landing dates

Every florist dreams of growing a beautiful, abundantly blooming perennial culture. Rooting, long lasting and profuse floweringHealthy plant growth depends on several factors:

• adherence to landing dates;
• landing depth;
• adherence to the recommended interval;
• site selection;
• soil preparation for flower beds.

The timing of the spring planting of lilies slightly differs for different regions... Planting is possible when the soil warms up. This is late April - early May (depending on the region). Tubular, oriental hybrids are planted as soon as the snow melts from the site, tiger, Tibetan lilies - in early April, terry varieties - in April. Be sure to cover the planting site with mulch. If you are simply replanting flowers from one place to another, do it with a lump of earth.

Benefits of the April landing

Planting lilies in April has several advantages over autumn and summer:

• prevention of hypothermia of the bulbs in winter time;
• the ability to protect the bulbs during autumn frosts;
• the possibility of planting already germinated flowers;
• creature favorable conditions for the development of the root system;
• fast, good plant survival;
• correct preparation soil helps the plant to develop actively;
• keep the bulbs under optimal conditions until planting.

How to plant lilies

Before decorating a flower garden, you should prepare the soil. When digging up the soil, clods are crushed, weed roots, stones are removed. This improves soil drainage, facilitates weed control in the future. Shovels are dug to the depth of the bayonet, but if the soil has not been cultivated before or the site has been flooded earlier, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil and dig deeper.

The land for the flower bed must be prepared, because a lily flower bed requires loose, fertile soil, without relatives groundwater... When digging a site, they bring in 1 square meter:

• peat - 1 bucket;
• wood ash - 100 g;
• humus - 8 kg;
• superphosphate - according to the instructions.

Before planting, each well should be moistened, but not filled. Planting depth depends on the size of the bulb. The hole should be 2-3 times the height of the bulb. On light sandy soils, the planting depth is 3 times the length of the bulb (the height of the sprout is not taken into account), on heavy clay soils, the planting depth is taken 2 times the length of the bulb.

The distance between the holes depends on the variety. Tall ones are planted after 20-30 cm. Low-growing ones - after 10-15 cm. Pour on the bottom of the hole river sand a slide in order to protect the bulb from excess moisture. Cover with earth. Cover the landing with mulch on top. If the height of the sprout exceeds 10-15 cm, the bulbs are laid sideways, sprinkled with sand and soil with care, because the shoots are fragile. If the sprouts are large, but planted in open ground early, use peat pots. With the onset of heat, plant flowers on the flower bed directly in them.

It is possible to grow at home on a windowsill, balcony, winter garden subject to the timing of planting lilies. Land can be used purchased at the store. Suitable soil compiled in following proportions:

• sod land - 3 parts;
• sheet land - 1 part;
• humus - 1 part;
• sand - 1 part.

The third part of the selected lily container must be filled with a drainage layer. Small pebbles, shards or large expanded clay are suitable for this. Some growers use crushed eggshells.

The pot for planting the bulb should not be large. Tall, large bushes, for example, the Regale variety, or several low and medium-sized varieties can be planted in large tubs or flowerpots. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot about one third. Then a little prepared soil, on top of a layer of 3 cm of calcined sand. Plant a lily on the sand, sprinkle 2/3 with earth. In this case, the pot should not be filled to the brim. It should be borne in mind that in the future, with the growth of the stem, the bulb will need to be covered up to the neck.

Selection and storage of planting material

When buying in a store, carefully examine the planting material. The main thing is that the bulb is not sluggish, but dense, elastic, fleshy. Choose large, healthy bulbs with a hard neck, no damaged tissue, cracks, or overdried scales. Do not purchase dry, shriveled, light-colored, soft, porous onions. The sprout, if any, should be short, powerful, thick, but not more than 10 cm.

Examine the bulbs carefully, remove dry or rotten scales. Then disinfect with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Dry, put in vermiculite. In order to avoid deformation of the shoot, the packaging must be loose. Store the planting material in the refrigerator on the lower shelf in paper bags or polyethylene with holes.

What soil is suitable for lilies

New plantings are being carried out in an area where lilies have not been grown before. For a lily flower bed, choose a dry, sunny area. The soil should be loose, nutritious, permeable, without stagnant water - the roots rot from dampness, and the flowers grow poorly, they can die. Lilies normally tolerate a little shade, but they grow poorly in dense shade, they gain few buds. A good neighborhood in a flower garden with roses - they have a beneficial effect on each other.

If the allotted area has a heavy clay soil, it is necessary to add peat, sand, compost 20 days before planting. Different varieties of lilies are preferred different types soil. Most varieties prefer neutral soils. Daurian and Tiger lilies are well suited to soil with a slight acidity. Monochrome, white, bulbous and curly varieties love slightly alkaline soil.

Fertilization

After planting, the entire period of growth, development, flowering, the lily needs additional feeding. For this, complex fertilizers designed for bulbous flowers are best suited. Top dressing should be applied according to the instructions, take into account that during the growth period the flower needs nitrogen, and during the flowering period - in phosphorus and potassium. During the entire growing season, lilies need three main feeding:

• when shoots appear - with urea and complex fertilizers;
• when tying buds - potassium sulfate and superphosphate;
• during flowering - mullein solution and nitroammophos.

Mineral

Fertilizers applied to the soil improve its composition. They provide the plant with nutrients for proper growth and development. Mineral fertilizers contain many trace elements, which organic flowers cannot give. Fertilizer rates for specific purposes:

• for abundant, long flowering, development of the root system, strengthening of immunity, they are introduced into the soil when digging for 10 square meters: 200 g of urea, 0.5 kg of potassium sulfate, 1 kg of superphosphate;
• for the general strengthening of plants per 10 square meters, 1.5 kg of azophoska are introduced into the soil;
• during active flowering, for top dressing, a solution of nitroammofoska 50 g per 1 bucket of water is watered under the root;
• to activate plant growth and tying buds, 1 tbsp of ammonium nitrate is introduced into the soil. l. for 1 sq.m;
• to protect against fungal infections, 1 tbsp of ammonium nitrate is introduced into the soil. l. per 1 square meter once in the spring for the whole season.

Organic

The introduction of rotted humus during digging makes the soil looser, facilitates the access of air and moisture to the roots, saturates with nutrients, and promotes the reproduction of worms. 8 kg of humus are applied per 1 m². For heavy soils, add 1.5 buckets of peat and sand. Wood ash protects plants from mold and disease. During the summer, ash fertilization can be carried out 5-7 times at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq. M. The best fertilizer for active growth and flowering, diluted slurry is used at the rate of 1:10. It should be applied with the onset of warm spring days once a month.

Watering mode

The need for water is the most important in plants - they die from a lack of moisture and from its excess. Scanty, irregular watering leads to improper flower formation, deformation, and death of the plant. Waterlogging leads to fungal, bacterial diseases, rotting of the bulb, roots. Surface watering harmful to plants, because roots begin to reach up to moisture and dry out on the surface of the soil. Follow the watering recommendations:

1. Water the newly planted and blooming lily... The rest of the time, watering should be regular, but moderate.
2. Watering should be done in the evening.
3. Water should not get on the leaves of the plants, this leads to burns.
4. The most suitable watering for lilies is drip irrigation.

Protection from pests and diseases

For the cultivation and reproduction of lilies, you need to take care of disinfection planting material and soil. Fungal and viral diseases affect the trunks and leaves of lilies, impair the appearance of flowers and destroy the flower completely. High humidity and abundant watering contributes to the spread of rot. To grow healthy and beautiful flowers, before planting, the following processing of the bulbs is carried out to protect against infections:

1. rinse well;
2. place in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. (5-10 g per 1 bucket of water);
3. soak in a fungicide solution for 30 minutes;
4. remove damaged scales;
5. rinse in several waters;
6. treat with a solution of karbofos 1 tbsp. l. for 1 bucket of water.

Protection will improve if the plantings are insulated for a while. To do this, use mini-greenhouses, plastic bottles, covering material. With insufficient processing of the planting material, during flowering, flowers can be susceptible to a number of diseases. For the prevention of diseases in May, the earth is shed with Bordeaux liquid. In July, processing is carried out 2 times. During the season, the plant is sprayed several times. If the treatment does not help and the plant does not get better, it is dug up and destroyed so that others do not get sick.

Types of diseases	External manifestations	Control methods
wet rot	Yellow spots on leaves, peduncles	reduce watering, use of nitrogen fertilizers
root rot	the tip of the shoot turns yellow	the plant is destroyed, the soil is disinfected
gray mold	brown spots on the plant	reduce watering, treat with copper-containing preparations
rust	Brown rust stains on the leaves	treat with Bordeaux liquid or fungicides

How to protect lilies from insects

Delicious juicy onions and foliage like small garden pests... Squeak beetle, aphids, spider mites, clickers, beetles, thrips, lily beetle. These insects harm the bulbous and lead to their death. The most laborious, but no less effective is the manual method - it is a safe means of getting rid of pests without the use of insecticides and pesticides. You can get rid of aphids, lily beetles, squeak beetles by collecting them with your hands and destroying them. If you cannot cope with insect pests manually, you will have to resort to processing the plants.

When planting lilies in the spring, you can avoid using toxic chemicals and try organic pest control. To combat aphids, spider mites, thrips use soap solution or aqueous solution vegetable oils (clove, rosemary). Oils are not used for processing at air temperatures above 32 and below 4 degrees. Processing is carried out on a cloudy day with low air humidity.

To combat aphids, ticks, thrips use infusions:

• potato or tomato tops - 4 kg per 10 liters of water boil for 30 minutes, add 30 g soap;
• horse sorrel roots - 300 g per 10 liters of water, insist for 3 hours;
• dandelion leaves - 400 g per 10 liters of water, insist for 3 hours;
• leaves and flowers of chamomile pharmacy - 3 kg per 10 liters of water, insist 12 hours and dilute with water 1: 3;
• garlic - chopped cloves 200 g, pour 10 liters of water to use immediately.

Before using pesticides, make sure that they are classified as low or moderately hazardous. The drugs approved for use in Russia are listed in the State Catalog of Pesticides and Agrochemicals Approved for Use, which is posted on the Internet. Continuous use of the same pesticide is not recommended because pests develop immunity. If you decide to use synthetic drugs, they must be alternated.

Pest types	Harm done	Control methods
Aphids can be of different colors: green, pink, brown, black, gray	large colonies spoil flower buds, damage young shoots, weaken the plant, can destroy	neighborhood with marigolds, nasturtium, peppermint, garlic, others spicy herbs; spraying tobacco dust or pyrethrum powder over affected plants; spraying with karbofos solution; treatment with synthetic pesticides based on alpha-cypalermethrin, imidacloprid
Thrips are small oblong black bugs that leave behind silvery spots on the leaves	feed on plant juices, the buds do not bloom, the leaves become unattractive	biopreparations Fitoverm, Akarin, pesticides based on imidacloprid
Spider mite is red, the larva lives in the ground for 5 years	feeds on plant sap, weakens and oppresses the flower, without processing leads to death, the leaves curl, the plant dries up; on the leaves you can see white eggs and the tick itself	spraying with plain water (from excessive dryness); spraying with karbofos; spraying with "Acaricide"
Squeak beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle) is a red beetle that emits a high-pitched sound in anticipation of danger	lays mucus-covered larvae on the underside of the leaf; in a few days the plant is completely deprived of leaves;	spraying with malofos
A lily fly starts in an unblown bud	damages the pistil and stamens of the flower	spraying with malofos
Medvedka	spoils bulbs and sprouts, digs holes	introduction of "Medvetox" into the soil 3 g per 1 m2, traps from the bear
Khrushch (beetle larva)	damages bulbs and roots	harvested by hand when digging
Wireworm, the larva of a click beetle, worm-like, thin, long, orange or yellow-brown, with three pairs of legs	damages the bulb from the inside, gradually wears out the entire bulb	process the bulbs with potassium permanganate, traps from buried halves of potatoes, adding ammonium nitrate to the soil

Succulent, nutritious bulbs and young shoots are loved by garden rodents. Root will help to protect the landing from mice metal mesh with small cells. They also don't like the smell of daffodils. By planting daffodil bushes around a flower bed with lilies, you will do a service to your lilies. Some insect pests also cannot stand the smell of daffodils. Observing the timing of planting lilies and the rules of care, selecting specimens by color and height, you will get a flower garden that smells fragrant from early spring to autumn.

Video

Lilies are luxurious flowers, they have been cultivated since ancient times. As a result of many years and active selection, great amount varieties and hybrids of these flowers. In terms of origin and biological characteristics, diverse varieties and hybrids are divided into nine groups. In Russia, Asian hybrids are widespread: they are the most unpretentious and grow well and bloom even in northern gardens.

The choice of planting material

When purchasing planting material, it is necessary to clarify which group this or that belongs to. Each group meets certain requirements for agricultural technology and methods of growing (planting lilies, care, flowering time, storage). If it is not possible to determine the belonging of the planting material to any group, then it is better to refuse to purchase it. Lily bulbs purchased in advance, which must be overexposed for several days, should be stored in a cool and dark place and shifted with moist moss, sawdust, sand.

Preparing the bulbs for planting

The success of the grower depends on the quality of the planting material. Therefore, the selection of lily bulbs planned to be planted must be careful. The bulbs must be healthy and free of damage. If rusty and brown spots are visible on the scales, they must be removed, also removed the withered roots and cut off too long. Before planting, it is recommended to treat the bulbs with a 10% solution of karbofos (one tablespoon per ten liters of water) or 0.2% fundozol solution, or in a 0.1% solution. In the solution, the bulbs are kept for no more than half an hour. The use of any insecticide has a beneficial effect on the development of the plant.

Boarding time

Planting lilies is possible in spring and autumn: in any case, the plants take root. Experienced florists nevertheless, early autumn is considered the most favorable period for planting work. In warm autumn, the bulbs have time to take root, with early frosts they require shelter.

Spring planting of lilies is done early, before the young stems are extended. Otherwise, they may break when landing.

Choosing a place for lilies

Lilies love the sun, but they do not need constant solar lighting, they develop well and bloom in partial shade. The plot for the flower garden is chosen even and rather large. Flowers should be spacious, they should not interfere with each other. Usually they are seated once every five years, this also needs to be foreseen. If flowers are transplanted more often, then full-fledged, lush bloom you can not wait. For new plantings, it is better to choose a completely new site where the lilies did not grow, in order to avoid diseases and pests.

Soil preparation

All varieties and hybrids of lilies are demanding on the soil, but the difficulty is that some of them grow well on alkaline, others need acidic ones. In accordance with this, the earth is prepared. A lily, which was planted in the wrong soil, gets sick, withers, blooms poorly, and eventually dies.

Experienced growers form plantings so that the flowers of the same group are located side by side, so it is easier to comply with the growing conditions. For the Asian hybrids most common in our gardens, neutral or slightly acidic soils are best suited. To do this, it is recommended to add wood ash to the ground: it fertilizes, and disinfects, and neutralizes the soil cover.

The entire site is dug to a depth of at least 35 centimeters. Then organic is added and coarse river sand is added. The area must be well drained - lilies do not tolerate stagnant moisture well.

The day before, before planting, the land is watered abundantly. In wet weather watering can be done directly into the planting grooves or holes.

Planting lilies

The distance between plants is determined by the height and vigor of the future flowers. Low lilies are planted at a distance of ten to fifteen centimeters, large ones - 25-30 centimeters from each other. River sand is poured into each hole at the bottom, an onion is placed on it, the roots are straightened, then covered with earth.

The planting depth of the bulb depends on its size and soil composition. The bulb is planted to a depth of two to three times its diameter. In light sandy soil, the bulb is planted deeper than in clay, heavy.

Planting lilies ends with watering and for this, peat, humus or sawdust are used.

Location: all lilies require protection from strong winds, but stagnant humid air leading to the defeat of plants with gray rot is very dangerous, so the site should not only be well protected from the winds, but also sufficiently ventilated. A narrower approach to various groups of lilies begins with the requirements for lighting. So, for the Snow White Lily and Tubular Hybrids, you should choose a sunny area. Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids grow well in full sun and tolerate light shading. Lily Martagon and Oriental Hybrids require placement in partial shade.

The soil : lilies are very demanding on the soil. According to the reaction to the content of lime in the soil, lilies are divided into two groups. The first group includes species that carry a small amount of lime in the soil: Royal Lily, Henry Lily, Candidum Lily, Saranka Lily, Leopard Lily. The second group, more numerous, is made up of lilies, for which the presence of lime in the soil is undesirable: long-flowered lily, gilded lily, tiger lily. Canadian lily. Clayy, waterproof and sandy low-moisture soils are not suitable for lilies. The site on which it is planned to plant lilies should not be flooded with water, because the bulbs can easily rot and die from stagnant water. Since many lilies belong to forest plants, then fertile soils with a large humus layer that emerged from under a deciduous forest are suitable for them. Therefore, make sure that the soil in the area set aside for lilies is well-drained, loose and sufficiently moist. Lilies have been growing in one place for several years, so preparing the soil for planting them is very important.

Before planting, the soil is dug to a depth of 35-40 cm - taking into account the planting depth of the bulbs (15-20 cm) and the regrowth of roots to the same depth. 1 bucket of sand and peat is added to a heavy-textured soil, and 1 bucket of peat per 1 m 2 is added to light soil. Depending on the quality of the soil, 5-10 kg of humus (well-rotted manure) are introduced per 1 m 2, and 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate are added - the land is ready for planting Asian hybrids and LA-hybrids. Since the Lily is snow-white, Martagon Lily and Tubular Hybrids do not like acidic soils, wood ash, chalk or limestone are included in the pre-planting soil filling at the rate of 200-500 g per 1 m 2. Eastern hybrids, on the contrary, prefer slightly acidic soil. At the site of their planting, artificial drainage is first made, which is then covered with a mixture of equal parts of peat, turf soil and humus and spilled with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. The applied fertilizers are mixed with the earth, the dry earth is moistened and the lilies are planted.

Boarding and transfer: usually lilies are grown in one place without transplanting for 3-5 years. During this time, they form nests of bulbs. different ages and magnitudes. If lilies in younger plantings are sick, they must be dug up and transplanted to another place, not adhering to such a long digging frequency. It should also be borne in mind that the fast-breeding lilies of the Asian Hybrids and LA-Hybrids are transplanted more often, once every 3 years, and the slow-breeding lilies Martagon and Tubular Hybrids are less often.

The time for transplanting to a new place should coincide with the end of the growing season, when the lily bulbs get stronger after flowering. IN northern regions The best time for a transplant in Russia is early autumn (late August - September), in the middle lane - mid-autumn (September - early October), in the southern regions - late autumn (October - November). MF Kireeva notes that if necessary, the lily transplant can be carried out at any time of the season, without disturbing the clod of earth with roots, but it is better not to risk it. However, not all lilies are suitable for such transplantation conditions. So, Snow-white lily has a development cycle that is different from other species and hybrids of lilies. Its bulbs are planted in August and during planting in no case deepened: the distance from the top of the bulb to the ground level should be no more than 3 cm. In September, a wintering rosette of leaves appears ... The following spring, a flowering stem grows from the middle of the outlet. This species blooms in early July, and after flowering, a period of relative dormancy begins. It is during this short period that the Snow-White Lily can be transplanted.

Before digging, the stalks of the lilies are cut off, then nests are dug, shaken off the ground and carefully examined. Dead scales and roots must be removed, and then the bulbs are washed under running water. Clean bulbs are etched for 20 minutes in a 0.2% solution of foundationol. For etching, you can also use a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and keep the bulbs in it for 20 minutes. In the absence of these drugs, lily bulbs are treated for at least 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate prepared at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water. Then the treated bulbs are slightly dried in the shade: they cannot be kept in the sun because of the high sensitivity of lilies to drying out of the roots. If the bulbs are not planted immediately after drying, then folded in boxes and covered with damp moss or burlap, they can be stored until planting in a shady corner of the garden or in a barn. The roots of lily bulbs are shortened before planting, pruning to a length of 5-10 cm.

If you are going to purchase planting material, remember that it is half the success of a florist. Therefore, when buying, pay attention to the quality of the bulbs. They should be dense, hard, not moldy, without rotten scales, with living roots at least 5 cm long.A.V. Otroshko, one of the leading lily growers in Russia, recommends wrapping heavily dried lily bulbs in wet cloth or soak in water for a while. If you purchase planting material in the fall, then there will be no hassle with the bulbs before planting: they should simply be etched in one of the solutions and planted in a previously prepared area. And buying bulbs in early spring carries with it storage problems. Many amateur flower growers store lily planting material in perforated plastic bags with dry high peat or sphagnum in the lower compartment of the refrigerator at a temperature of + 2-5 C. You can do it differently. N. Rubinina from Moscow, before planting lily bulbs in open ground, plants them in plastic bottles. Cutting off the top of the bottle and making several holes at the bottom, she fills the bottle with a mixture of peat with earth and sand and plants the bulb to a depth of 15 cm, adding a little sand under its bottom. Then N. Rubinina places the bottles in a cool place (+ 10 ° С), maintains soil moisture with periodic watering, and in May, when the danger of frost has passed, transplants them into open ground. Immediately before planting, she cuts off the bottom of the bottle, pushes the plant with a lump of earth into a pre-prepared planting hole and sprinkles it with earth.

The planting depth of lilies depends not only on the size of the bulbs and the composition of the soil, but also on the characteristics of rooting. different types lilies: lilies with "real" roots are planted to a depth of 12-15 cm, while stem-root lilies require a deeper planting - at least 25 cm. The planting depth is also affected by the height of the plants different varieties and groups.

Planting depth of lily bulbs

Before planting the bulbs, it is recommended to sprinkle coarse sand on the bottom of the hole, then spread the bulbs on it, spread the roots and cover the bulbs with sand and then earth. It is necessary to water well the area with the planted lilies so that they take root faster. Planting of Oriental Hybrids, Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids is mulched with peat or sawdust in a layer of 5 cm. Since these mulching materials increase the acidity of the soil, they are not used as mulch when growing white lilies, Martagon and Tubular hybrids. These lilies are mulched with leaf humus with the addition of ash.

Care: comes down to watering, which begins in the spring and is necessarily carried out in hot dry weather, sometimes combining with liquid dressings. Moderate humidity is necessary for lilies throughout the growing season, but in the first half of summer during the period of active development and after flowering during the accumulation of nutrients for the winter, the need for water increases sharply. Water lilies at the root and only in the morning or afternoon. They loosen the soil around the lilies very carefully, and mulch is used to retain moisture in the soil. different materials, including cut grass.

Photo of EDSR.

The first feeding is carried out in the spring, in the snow, before the shoots appear. It is recommended to apply complex fertilizer at the rate of 30 g / m 2. The same feeding is carried out again during the budding period. After flowering, for better ripening of the bulbs under the lilies, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied: 30 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of superphosphate per 1 m 2. Many growers use wood ash when growing lilies, not only when preparing the soil before planting the bulbs, but also during the season: some carry out top dressing with an extract of ash (100 g per 10 l of water), Others simply sprinkle the soil with ash.

In the first year after planting, when the plants are still weakened and not strong enough, experts advise partially or completely removing the buds so that the lilies can prepare for full flowering next year. During flowering, if necessary, tall stems can be tied to a support. Faded flowers from peduncles should be removed, and the peduncles themselves should be cut off at the end of the season.

Some lilies demand increased attention florists throughout the season. First of all, these are Eastern Hybrids. In nature, the original species of Oriental hybrids grow in dry autumn conditions, not very wet winters, but abundant moisture in spring and summer. Therefore, when growing in open ground in more severe climatic conditions, one should take into account some of the subtleties of their agricultural techniques regarding soil moisture. Experts consider it a very important technique to cover the plantings of Eastern Hybrids with a film during the period of prolonged rains in September-October. The film is removed only in dry weather. This simple technique provides Eastern hybrids with wintering in the dried soil they need.

With the approach of cold weather, lilies are prepared for winter, since not all of them are distinguished by the same winter hardiness. The most winter-hardy are Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids. Snow-white lily, Tubular and Eastern hybrids are less winter-hardy, and the snow-white lily is much more finicky: it is grown in Russia only in the southern and middle zone of the European part. To prevent freezing of lilies for the winter, they are insulated: mulch with a layer of humus up to 7 cm or with dry fallen leaves up to 20 cm, after cutting off the stems of plants. Snow-white lily on top of the mulching layer is additionally covered with spruce branches, and capricious Oriental hybrids - plastic wrap to avoid waterlogging during thaw periods.

In early spring spruce branches, leaves and film are removed. This is done very carefully so as not to damage the young shoots. Lily sprouts are protected from spring frosts with straw or hay.

Diseases and pests: more than 10 types of pests have been registered on lilies: lily fly, lily and greenhouse aphids, thrips, purple scoop, onion leaf beetle, onion hoverfly, root onion mite, click beetles, stem and gall nematodes, etc. The most common diseases are rot. ...

Reproduction: seeds, dividing nests of bulbs, baby bulbs, scales of bulbs, bulbs, stem cuttingsand some even with leafy cuttings.

The easiest way, but not the fastest is reproduction by seeds. This produces a large amount of healthy planting material adapted to local conditions. Seeds of different species are characterized by two types of germination: aboveground - the cotyledons emerge on the soil surface, and underground - the formation of the bulb comes directly from the seed underground. Seeds with the aboveground type of germination are sown in February - March, with the underground type - after collection. Crops are kept in winter at a temperature of -1-2 "C. Dense seedlings dive, trying not to damage the root system. Watering should be done carefully so as not to cause lodging of seedlings. In April, boxes are taken out in greenhouses, at the end of May - June, young plants are planted on ridges During seed propagation, only some species of lilies, as well as some specially developed American varieties (strains), retain their specific qualities unchanged. All other hybrid varieties exhibit great splitting.

It is possible to get offspring that retain all the features of the mother plant only with vegetative reproduction. The simplest way is division of overgrown nests... It is based on the fact that the adult mother bulb is able to separate the daughter bulbs from itself as a result of the setting and awakening of renewal buds - new growth points. Expanding, the daughter bulbs form an independent root system and their own growth point, from which a new stem emerges. This creates a nest of bulbs that can be divided. N. Petrenko from the Pavlovsk experimental station of VIR advises dividing the nest and replanting 3-4 years after planting the lilies, when 4-6 bulbs are formed in the nest. Best term for this - early autumn, but you can transplant the bulbs in early spring, before or at the very beginning of the emergence of sprouts.

Photo by Elena Bairasheva

Some lilies develop in the leaf axils air bulbs - bulbswhich are also good stuff for reproduction. Bulbous lilies include lilies, which form airy bulbs: Countless Lily, Red Lily, Sargent Lily, Tiger Lily and their hybrids. The efficiency of reproduction by buds, the number and size of bulbs depend on varietal characteristics, the age of plants, the abundance of flowering, climatic conditions cultivation and agricultural technology. So, among the lilies bred by M.F. Kireeva with co-authors at the Institute of Horticulture. I.V. Michurina (Michurinsk) varieties "Aelita", "Kalinka", "Pink Dymka" form many large bulbs, and " Sea foam"," Autumn Song "," Polyushko "," Polyanka "- an insignificant number of small ones. Young plants give more buds than old ones; correct agricultural technology helps to increase their size and increase the number. Wet summer also favors the formation of bulbs, and some varieties form them only if the weather is wet for a long time.

It is possible to provoke the appearance of buds in some non-bulbous varieties, as well as to increase their size and number in bulbous varieties, using decapitation (removal of buds). The maximum effect is achieved if the buds are removed at the beginning of their formation. Later decapitation (in the phase of a colored bud or at the beginning of blooming) affects the formation of bulbs to a lesser extent or does not affect at all.

The buds are usually formed at the end of flowering, and soon their formation ends, and they crumble to the ground. N. Petrenko considers this moment to be the best for collecting and sowing bulbs. In a number of species of lilies, for example, the Snow-White Lily, the formation of air bulbs can be caused artificially by removing the buds that have not yet blossomed. In the time remaining until autumn, air bulbs will have time to form in the leaf axils. They are harvested as they mature. Non-bulbous lilies include lily plants that form airy bulbs in response to pinching: Snow-white lily. Dutch lily. Lily daurskaya. Lily Leukhtlina, Spotted lily, Terracotta lily, Chalcedonian lily. F. McMillan Broughs advises planting bulbs in flower pots. The pots are pre-filled to the brim with substrate and compacted a little, about 1 cm below the edge of the pot. The bulbs, slightly pressing in, are planted on the surface of the substrate with an interval of 2-3 cm. Sprinkle the top with sand flush with the edges of the pot and put a label. The pot is transferred to a cold greenhouse until next fall, at least for a year. Then the plants are transplanted into open ground. N. Petrenko recommends planting them in open ground immediately after collecting the bulbs. In the prepared loose nutrient soil, grooves are made with a depth of 2-3 cm and bulbs are planted in them with a distance between rows of 20-25 cm, and in a row - 5-6 cm. With a long warm autumn, seedlings may appear in the year of sowing. In the third year, the plants bloom and form large enough bulbs that can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction by bulbs on underground shoots.In some bulbous plants, numerous bulbs can form on underground shoots. The formation of such bulbs can be artificially stimulated. The flowering stems separated from the plants are buried in the ground, as a result of which bulbs appear in the axils of the leaves. F. McMillan Broughs advises trying to apply this method of reproduction of lilies in practice. To do this, they dig a groove about 15 cm deep: its narrow end should gradually come to naught. All flowers and buds are removed from the stem and detached from the bulb, which remains in the ground. Then it is laid in an inclined groove so that the top of the stem protrudes slightly, by 1/3, onto the soil surface. For preventive purposes, the stem is treated with a fungicide, after which it is sealed with sand or light soil mixture and a label is installed. By autumn, axillary bulbs will have formed at the bottom of the stem, which can either be left in place, or separated and transplanted into the soil to a depth of two bulb diameters. This method vegetative propagation pretty simple. The only difficulty is associated with the possibility of stem decay even before the bulbs appear on it. Among the lilies that form bulbs under the ground: Lily long-flowered, Golden lily, Canadian lily, Beautiful lily. Red lily, leopard lily, tiger lily.

Photo of EDSR.

Many varieties and species reproduce well bulbous scales... This method makes it possible to get from one bulb to 20-50 new plants, but since it requires special care and attention, it is not widespread. GK Tavlinova in her book “Home gardening” notes that lily scales are harvested in spring, summer and autumn. The onion is dug up and the scales are carefully separated from it. Then, in pre-prepared boxes with a nutritious soil mixture, the scales are buried to 2/3 of the height and sprinkled with sand on top. When small bulbs develop on them, the scales are separated, and the bulbs are grown.

F. McMillan Browse writes in his book "Plant Reproduction" that it is better to propagate lilies in this way in the fall before planting and use fresh bulbs that are on sale at that time. Taking a fresh, swollen onion, break it out as close as possible to the bottom of the scales. To separate scales from slightly wilted bulbs, it is better to use sharp knife... If some types of lilies do not tolerate digging and transplanting well, then in this case they dig a groove around the onion sitting in the ground, separate the required number of scales and fall asleep again. You can plant the bulbs for propagation in pots and put in the basement, and in the fall or winter, bring them into the room. As a rule, only a few outer scales are taken from each bulb. There may be pathogens on the scales fungal diseases... To destroy them, F. McMillan Brows advises putting the scales in a plastic bag with some fungicide powder. As a last resort, you can use a mixture of charcoal powder with a small amount of potassium permanganate. Shake the bag vigorously until all scales are covered thin layer fungicide.

GK Tavlinova recommends another treatment of scales. She believes that it is better to rinse them in a solution of potassium permanganate color pinkand then dry. Next, one volume of scales is mixed with four volumes of some loose and porous substrate, in which they can develop with good moisture and aeration. For this purpose use various materials, for example, fine expanded clay or a mixture of equal parts of wet peat and coarse sand, provided that they are sterilized, or wet perlite powder with the addition of 20-30 g of charcoal powder. The mixture is poured into a plastic bag, and a label is placed there; the bag is inflated and tied. Store it in a dark, well-ventilated place at a temperature of + 21 ° C.

Germination time depends on temperature conditions and varietal characteristics. Usually this period lasts 6 - 8 weeks. After this period, small bulbs develop at the base of the scales. As soon as these adventitious bulbs appear, the scales are removed from the bag and planted vertically in pots or boxes filled with a mixture of turf and leaf soil, humus and sand. The scales are planted so that their tips protrude slightly on the surface, sprinkle with sand on top. Then labels are put and light watering is carried out. The pot is placed in a warm, well-lit place. At the beginning of spring, children form leaves above the soil surface; in summer, plants are hardened. At the end of the growing season, when the leaves die off, young bulbs are removed from the ground, separated and planted for growing.

A significant increase in the multiplication factor (more than 50%) allows the treatment of the separated scales with growth regulators, for example, succinic acid (100 mg / L) or a-naphthylacetic (2B mg / L). The material is placed in a solution for 6 hours at a temperature of 20-22 °. The treatment with succinic acid, in addition, promotes an increase in the size of the formed young bulbs, which further accelerates the development of plants.

Among the perennial flowers grown in summer cottages, lilies occupy one of the first places in popularity. They amaze with their rich and chic variety, beauty and sophistication. And although perennial flowers do not require much attention to themselves, you still need and need to know which ones.
"Country hobbies"

What are these lily flowers?

These are perennial bulbous flowers. There is a huge assortment of species and varieties in the world. The most popular are hybrids of pipe lily, Asian, forest, etc.

Planting lilies

Usually, the bulbs are planted in the fall, when the root system is growing. You can plant lilies in early spring, only then you should not wait for flowering in the summer.

The place for the bulbs must be sunny, shade and partial shade are not suitable for these perennials. The soil should be well-drained, fertile, containing a minimum of organic matter. Acidic soils are not suitable for lilies, therefore, before planting them, liming the soil with chalk or dolomite flour and during the growth of lilies, the bed is periodically pollinated with wood ash.

The bulbs are planted to a depth of 8-10 cm, moreover, in autumn they are planted deeper than in spring. Large corms are planted deeper. Excessive deepening of the bulbs leads to the fact that the plant does not bloom and such a bulb will have to be transplanted to a new place in 2-3 years. Since over time, the bulb is drawn into the soil deeper, and it can be reborn. Interestingly, a bulb planted on a barrel reproduces much faster.

If there are rodents on the site, then the bulbs are planted in special baskets or in a metal mesh.

If wood ash or foundation is added to the soil before planting, this will save the plants from diseases.

growing lilies

How to care for lilies in spring

• If there was a lily shelter for the winter, then you need to remove it and loosen the bed to provide air for the roots. Loosening must be done carefully and carefully so as not to damage the sprouts.
• After wintering, the bulbs need increased nutrition. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizers must be applied (ammonium nitrate 1 tablespoon per square meter), or spill the bed with a complex fertilizer such as nitroammofoska (40-50 g / 10 l of water) or a mullein solution in a ratio of 1:10.
• With the emergence of seedlings, the bed should be weeded out, loosened.
• Repeatedly since spring, a bed of lilies is pollinated with wood ash about a glass per square meter.
• To prevent planting flowers from possible pests and diseases, treat the bed with a solution of lapis lazuli or Bordeaux liquid. You can cook homemade solution for processing plants and soil. To do this, pour 9 liters of water, add a tablespoon ammonia, baking soda and copper sulfate, already diluted in a liter of water, and it is added last, pouring it gently in a thin stream, stirring constantly.

Caring for lilies throughout the season

The further is not difficult: it is enough to loosen, water and feed while weeding from weeds.

During dry periods, water should be regularly watered to prevent the soil from drying out. Watering should be done carefully and carefully so as not to pour water on the leaves and stem, so you can provoke a burn. Although excessive watering can lead to rotting tubers and their death.

When buds appear, it is necessary to feed the lilies with fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium. To do this, you can use superphosphate, wood ash, potassium nitrate or complex fertilizer for flowers.

Does not interfere with treating plants from pests and diseases.

The plant loves the sun, but overheating of the bulbs is not desirable, therefore it is easier to mulch the surface of the garden with hay, straw, spruce branches, sawdust.

Preparing lilies for wintering

After the lily has flourished, the buds are cut off and the leaf should be removed after they turn yellow.

For a bouquet, lilies are broken out, however, the more the stem remains on the plant, the better the bulb ripens, receiving nutrition from the foliage, the stem, and wintering easier. Dried stems should not be cut in the fall, but rather removed in the spring. Pruning the stems in the fall will weaken the bulbs that may not bloom next summer. In late autumn, you can cut the stems, leaving hemp 15 cm high.

After flowering, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be applied to the lily garden to ripen the bulbs.

For the prevention of diseases, it is worth treating the planting with Bordeaux liquid.

As you can see, it is not difficult. And these are so gentle and graceful that they will always find a place in any summer cottage. When proper care this beautiful flower will delight the owners for many years.

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Since ancient times, lily is considered a flower chastity, purity, freedom... She won the hearts of many people with her beauty, sophistication and tenderness. Every gardener strives to grow this flower in his garden. Lily is loved for its large inflorescences of bright, beautiful color and for its simplicity. There are many ways to grow these wonderful flowers. The most popular option that interests flower growers is to plant lilies in the ground in spring.

It's very simple perennial... So that this flower grows in the open field and pleases its unique beauty, it is necessary to properly care for it, as well as observe all the rules of planting. This flower is considered the most unpretentious in the selection of a seating site, but mistakes can be made when planting, and then the plant will not bloom or rot while still in the bulb.

When to plant lilies

Each gardener has his own opinion about the timing of planting lilies in open ground. But if you look at this in detail, you can see that plant bulbs correct in spring and autumn. Each season has its own positive moment... If you plant bulbs in the spring, the flower will bloom at the same time of the year, delighting you with magnificent inflorescences.

But if you want the plants to be strong and healthy, while the bulbs take root well, you need to plant the lilies in the fall. It was during this period that she will receive perfect root growth... It is a well-known fact that flowers with underground shoots (bulbs) harden well at positively low temperatures. AND heat has a good effect on the development of the aboveground part. The right time for autumn planting - the second half of August until the end of September.

If last summer was cold, experts advise to refrain from planting lilies in the spring, as they will be able to bloom only next year. The most favorable time of the year for planting is the end of April.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting

There are cases that flower growers choose early spring for planting. The reason may be the lack of extra time or, most importantly, the uniqueness of a certain variety. There may be various reasons that influenced your decision to plant lilies at this particular time of year. What are the advantages and disadvantages of spring for planting lilies?

Advantages of landing in spring:

• Dug up bulbs in the fall should be stored in a cold place until spring planting. Bulbs stored at home are better preserved and do not freeze or decompose as in the ground in winter.
• Lilies planted in spring thanks to the favorable environment take root well in a new place.

Disadvantages of planting lilies in spring:

• It so happens that for the whole spring the root could not strengthen, because of this, the flower lives thanks to the bulb, which means that its condition is very poor.
• Bulbs planted in spring don't give kids, this fact will be useful to those amateur flower growers who propagate lilies with the help of children.

In general, there are disadvantages in the spring planting of lilies, but they are quite insignificant. You always need to take into account the variety of lilies, then you can know exactly what season is favorable for your flower. An example can be given: if you take a North American lily for planting, it must be planted in autumn, and oriental hybrids will only benefit from spring planting.

Spring planting lilies

Planting lilies in spring provides complete protection of the bulbs from dehydration and freezing. Roots are formed intensively in spring time in late-flowering varieties. Therefore, most often purchased healthy and large bulbs with sprouted sprouts are planted in the ground.

The purchase must be done very carefully, it is necessary to check how healthy the bulb is. In this case, pay attention to the covering scales, it must be clean, without wet dark spots, and the roots are not dried alive. Choosing a lily in the fall, you will not have any problems with it, because you can plant it right away. By purchasing a plant in spring, you can face a little difficulty... The bulb will need to be saved with all strength. For this case, make small holes in polyethylene, pour sawdust or peat into it, lay the bulbs and store them in the refrigerator until planting.

Spring planting of lilies in open ground is done when the snow melts from the place where you plan to plant flowers. This should be especially taken into account when planting oriental and tubular hybrids. From March 21st, you can plant Tibetan, tiger and other varieties that bloom in autumn... And in April, it is best to plant terry lilies, while it is necessary to cover the planting areas with mulch (weeds, foliage, old sawdust, shavings, peels, peat compost and other materials, waste, as well as processed products).

How to plant lilies in the ground in spring?

Every amateur florist should be able to properly plant lilies in the ground. We carry out planting as follows:

How to properly plant lilies with sprouts?

• A large onion is planted at a depth of 20 cm from its top, if there is a sprout.
• If the dimensions are average, then it is planted 10-15 cm from the top.
• When the sprouts are quite long (15-20 cm), two varieties of Asian hybrids and hybrids must be planted in horizontal holes, their depth should be 10 cm. This is necessary so that the sprouts can slowly take a standing position in 2-3 weeks. During this time, the cold in May is already over, and everyone knows that they are very dangerous for the delicate sprouts of lilies.

After transplanting, lilies cannot be transplanted for at least 4 years, because this process can lead to a stop of their growth. Be sure to feed the plants with mineral and organic fertilizers after planting.

Soil preparation and treatment

The soil for the fruitful cultivation of lilies must be loose, healthy, acid-basenourished. The most common type of soil: coniferous litter, the composition of sod land (land mixtures), peat (combustible mineral), gray coarse river sand. You can also mix flower primer.

We carry out soil preparation for spring planting after the ground thaws and becomes relatively soft:

• We dig up the earth by 35-40 cm.
• We make drainage to drain off excess water.
• If varieties of other flowers grew in this place, you need to add fresh soil or substrate (turf mixtures composed of various natural components and their substitutes).
• We saturate the soil with mineral fertilizers or humus.
• We reduce the acidity to the required level using chalk 500 g, or wood ash 200 g per 1 m3 of soil.
• The soil must be watered.

For drainage, gravel or river pebbles are used. Needles mixed with sand are added to the soil in order for the bulbs to harden and become large and healthy. Most importantly, you need to remember that you cannot add biological fertilizers, and especially manure. We spread the top layer of peat, rotten sawdust or compost ( organic fertilizerresulting from the decay of various organic compounds under the influence of the activity of microorganisms).

When planting lilies choose sunny place , but do not forget that you definitely need to know the variety of your flower. Be sure to monitor the depth of the holes, the distance between them, the formation of plants depends on it. Flowers should not grow in cramped conditions, it simply does not benefit them, and even the flower garden looks bad. Make sure that areas where lilies are planted are not flooded with spring waters.

Top dressing

It does not matter what time of year you have chosen for planting flowers, whether it is spring or autumn, it is imperative to saturate the soil with mineral fertilizers (inorganic compounds containing nutrients necessary for plants). Just don't fertilize with fresh cow dung. He is devastating affect the root crop, stops growing. Given the type of soil, in the spring the soil is fed with the following dietary supplements:

• Ammonium nitrate ( nitrogen fertilizer) 1 tablespoon per 1 m3 of soil.
• Nitroammofosku (complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer) 50 grams for a full bucket of water.
• Wood ash. It is the most fruitful fertilizer that contains potassium, calcium, phosphorus.

Saturating the soil with minerals, you need to adhere to the dosage, a large number of additives prevents the sprouts from developing. The most useful substance for plants is wood ash. It can be fed all season up to 5-6 times. Wood ash gives off an alkaline environment that is very beneficial for plants, and also prevents the appearance of pests and mold.

Flowers planted in the spring, in addition to primary feeding, are fertilized at least 2 more times. The soil is impregnated with a nitrophoska solution before the buds ripen, and after they will fade, superphosphate solution... The last fertilizer is necessary to feed the bulb, preparing it for winter. Together with mineral dressings, disease prevention is carried out. In May, when the sprout hardens, the soil is impregnated with 1% Bordeaux liquid. This procedure must be repeated 2 more times in the summer only by sprinkling the entire flower. If the plant shows the slightest signs of a disease, for example, rot, prolong the feeding, the bulb needs additional nutrition.

Mistakes when growing lilies

Mistakes made when planting lilies in spring can lead to plant death. The most popular mistakes and how to avoid them:

The rules for planting lilies are completely unpretentious. Fans of flower growers should not hope that in the same year there will be rich flowering from spring plantings, but next year the flower bed will conquer you with the beauty and splendor of beautiful lilies.