The flooding of the basement happens quite often. With this problem, not only summer residents are facing, but also urban residents. As a rule, water in the basement or cellar appears in the spring during the melting of snow. Despite the opportunity to dry the basement and make it newly suitable for storage of products, many people after one-time flood simply throw their storage facilities, preferring to acquire or build a new cellar.
In order for the problem of flooding the basement to you, it is necessary to thoroughly seal the floor and walls of the room, as well as organize an effective removal of water from the construction. If despite all the efforts, the soil waters are still penetrated into the cellar, then it is necessary to get rid of them very quickly, so that the basement is not under the action of moisture for a long time.
It is much easier to prevent the problem of the penetration of water into the repository in advance than to deal with its consequences. You can get rid of groundwater by equipping the cellar of the drainage system. It is necessary to make a system of drainage at the construction stage. Properly arranged drainage will make rid of water on the site and protect the basement designs.
If the drainage system was not equipped at the construction stage, then you should not worry about this, because there is a way out of this situation, it's next.
Accumulation of moisture in the soil
In order to quickly cope with the emerging problem of the basement flooding, it is necessary to understand what is moisture affecting the structure. Soil and groundwater are the greatest danger.
High level of groundwater on the site.
When digging a deep pit, it can be noted that gradually sandy soil and loams begin to replace a more dense clay rock. This is the so-called waterproof layer. After falling out of precipitation over such floors, huge volumes of water accumulate.
On the way of the movement of the soil moisture, walls and overlaps of the repository are often. In this case, a small underground lake is formed near the wall, which begins to negatively affect the designs.
The basement can be easily protected from exposure to water coming from the soil surface. To do this, you need to arrange special mini-channels that will divert water from building. But the groundwater, which hold on the same level underground throughout the year, are of great danger, and it is extremely difficult to get rid of them.
In particular, it is precisely from the depth of groundwater that depends the type of foundation on which the building is erected. If the building is supposed to be a basement (this is our case), then the optimal solution will be a monolithic reinforced concrete plate. This is financially reasonable and in many ways is really the best foundation.
There is another way to protect the room from moisture. If you want to make a basement absolutely sealed, you can use a littered container - caisson. However, the caissons are quite expensive and do not always have the desired size. Therefore, such a variant of the storage device is not considered by the majority of daches and country households.
SUPPLY SYSTEM SYSTEM
In order not to think about how to remove water from the basement, it should be immediately borrowed by the device of the correct drainage.
Water removal scheme from basement.
By and large, a good stretch drainage is a deep trench located below the base of the basement. The width of the trench, as a rule, does not exceed 10-15 cm. The trench is usually covered with large-scale rubble, a perforated tube or a chute is mounted. In addition, waterproofing is necessarily located (for example, using geotextiles or thick agry). From above, the trench is covered with soil.
Drainage pipes.
Such drainage must be located under a slight bias from the construction. Such a water removal system will flow, collecting and removing any moisture with a fairly large area. Of course, among other things, it is required to organize the output of the assembled water beyond the site.
If your house with the basement is located on the slope, then the drainage trench must be made from the side of the elevation so that it goes the building. And the outputs need to be made below the lower part of the site. When there is no slope, it is necessary to make a drainage well, in which all water assembled from the site will be collected.
One of the best methods for removing melt water from the building is to compile the drain and tap tube. The second pipe must have a maximum bias away from the site. Experts recommend to operate in this case a pipe with a diameter of at least 12-14 cm. Even when accumulating the soil and dry leaves in the groove the throughput of the pipe will not decrease.
The process of the device of the drainage system.
In addition, it is very important to prevent perpendicular fibes of the pipe (which, for example, come around the garage), because they are very often clogged with leaves and garbage. With the length of the gutter, more than 500 cm it is necessary to provide two outlet channels. In addition, it is strictly not recommended to connect the tap tubes to the foundation drainage system. In this case, if a tanning tube is born, the whole drainage system will be blocked soon. Then water in the basement, the cellar or the garage observation pit will be the usual phenomenon.
Complete protection of the basement from moisture
Ground and melting water systematically feed the soil around the foundation, so after some time the hydrostatic pressure increases, and the moisture begins to leak through the cracks at home. In order to stay dry during the whole service life, and that the water in the cellar does not accumulate, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing at home. In most cases, bitumen mastic and special mixtures are applied for this. Waterproofing of the coating type is applied to the surface outside.
The modern market offers all sorts of masts, the basis of which is low molecular weight polyethylene or petrochetum. Before applying, these mixtures must necessarily warm up (otherwise due to the proper insulation). The performance characteristics of such insulators are much higher than that of ordinary bitumen mastics.
You can select three main components of high-quality moisture protection:
- Insulating layer under the stove (cellar, garage, at home) and good waterproofing of the walls.
- The presence of an internal drainage contour (it is responsible for harvesting moisture).
- Effective and stable pumping pump.
Waterproofing basement with bitumen mastic.
The monolithic plate in the cellar or basement is placed on a layer of gravel at 20-30 cm. This backfill must be done in order to provide a good gravel and sand pillow for concrete. This pillow will be responsible for draining the soil under the stove. Parosolation materials are stacked on a crusched layer (as a rule, many use polyethylene). Steam barrier rolls need to be laid must be laid (by 40-60 cm), all visible joints need to be sealed with construction tape.
Such isolation, according to many builders, is incorrect because it will not allow to go into the ground that will necessarily stand out from the cement mortar. That is why the pouring of the concrete will be long. The problem partially can be solved by laying a small sandy layer on a vapor insulation material. You can also consider the variant of the device layer of vapor barrier under gravel.
Pump - part of the drainage system
Pump for pumping water is one of the most important elements of the drainage. If you use high-quality equipment, you can completely eliminate the likelihood of moisture in the cellar or basement. It is important that the pump housing is cast-iron. In addition, the drainage pump should be able to pump water in the presence of solid inclusions.
As a rule, pumps are mounted inside the waterborns collecting and filtering water. In turn, the water collector is arranged in the aggregate layer below the floor level in the cellar. The moisture container penetrates through the drainage system through the sidewalls of the watershed.
But hope for using the pump is dangerous. If, for example, the house will be de-energized, the basement will be quickly flooded. And to do something in this case will be too late. To progress, experts recommend making a drainage system with two pumps. Moreover, the second will work on the battery. An additional pump can be installed in the same water collection capacity as the main one.
Highly efficient drainage systems have whole pumping stations that are equipped with backup batteries, which allows not to break the usual mode of operation even when the electricity is disconnected for a long time. But is there any need to make such a drainage system on its site? Most likely, a simpler option is suitable for solving your tasks.
The flooding of the basement can openly call one of the most annoying troubles in the life of a private homeowner. We propose to find out the reasons for such phenomena and choose adequate methods of countering soil waters. Starting from a temporary solution to the problem, and ending with an integrated approach.
Why and where water seeps
Conditionally basement - an underground tank, which is structurally isolated from the soil and all phenomena, in it occurring. Unfortunately, even modern monolithic "capacity" of such a kind, even with impeccable technological performance, have a completely limited service life, which is to talk about the prefabricated cellars with brick walls! Water at a two-three-meter depth is under pressure and is able to leak out inside even through the slightest breach in waterproofing.
The situation is exacerbated by the dynamicity of the soil, which deals and bends, periodically changing the relief of the clay layer. All sorts of depressions, folds and beds, in which water accumulates and flows, hidden from eyes. Understanding all these phenomena are when the Ripper along the modified path enters the basement area and accumulates in it, not finding another exit.
It is impossible to delay with the solution to the problem - every year the structure resource decreases, moreover, periodic flooding causes wild inconvenience using the basement for its intended purpose.
Reducing the cov by drainage of soil on the site
The first and most obvious way to get rid of water in the basement - interference in the natural processes of geomorphology. The inhabitant such events may be familiar as drainage.
A decrease in the corning on the site is performed:
- installation at the design depth of absorption pipes with perforated walls;
- organization of the system of underground pipelines
- device Fields Reset.
The draining system works the fundamental rule: so that the capacity remains drained, more water should flow out of it than it flows. And since the duct of water through dense soil is very slow, then several hollow pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm will be sufficient even for draining a significant area.
The device of the drainage system is quite complex from the engineering point of view, but after all, the flooding of the basement is only the visible part of Iceberg. It is impossible to exclude that the spacious soil may be the cause of the rapid aging of other underground structures.
As for practical implementation, the system prototype is extremely simple. On the perimeter of the dried area, the barbell or manually network of trenches, whose depth corresponds to the desired AGB. The bottom of the trenches is covered with geotextiles and is poured with a layer of any hygroscopic material - from vermiculitis to ordinary road rubble - or their combination. In the layer of porous subfolders, pipes with perforation, resistant to high intracillary pressure and other specific operating conditions, are hidden.
The pipe system has key points. For example, prefabricated collectors who direct all the water from the site into one channel with sufficient bandwidth. Or revision wells - wide vertical mines installed on rectangular pipe crossing for their maintenance, inspection and cleaning with special equipment.
The drainage field must be arranged taking into account the relief features of the first waterproof layer separating the rigor. The stock is always sent to the lowest point, located no closer than 25 meters to the boundary of the drainaged area. The discharge field is the pipe system connected by the "calculation" with an interval of 2.5 meters. The total ability of the field to lead water should be equivalent to the absorbency of the drainage system.
Water and hydraulic insulation
In lowlands and near water bodies, the drainage of the soil will not give anything, the volume of incoming water is too large and there is no lower point for its discharge. An alternative in this case is seen as desolate waterproofing of the basement. It is not always easy to arrange it at the stage of construction, however, there are every chance to make a basement dry.
We are talking about the opening of the soil outside the basement and the subsequent work on waterproofing walls. It is worth notifying that not every basement or the base requires work from the outdoor side. For example, concrete walls and gears can be injected, due to which they become absolutely immune to moisture.
In the other case, it is necessary to dig a technical trench by 40-50 cm below the snow location, leaving about 70-100 cm of free space for work. The carrier layer of the wall is cleared of fragments overgrown over erosion and is re-placed to create a solid and smooth base. Waterproofing is applied to this basis: mastic, or rolled materials that cut off moisture from the structure of the walls. On top of the waterproofing layer, a protective plate is cast, intended for fixing the hydrobrilever in the mass of the wall and its reliable protection against the formation of cracks, dents and other effects.
But these are only walls. The floor in the basement for the reconstruction of the waterproofs is also revealed below the depth of the walls of the walls and is cast a monolithic railway plate. The instrument of the hydroberier in this case, performs a 30-40 cm layer of heavy tugpoplastic clay, moistened and rammed without the formation of cavities. Any durable, preferably seamless material: thick polyethylene, banner fabric or PVC cloth for the pool. The edges are glued with bitumen on the walls with a transmunion by 100-120 mm. Paul in such protection can be filled with a stove, you can also spawn with rubble.
Local water removal from the basement
The third method requires certain knowledge in geology, in particular - reliable information on the section of the soil at the basement location or as close as possible to it. Such information can often be given by neighbors or drainage of wells, it is possible to search for archival results of surveys.
The essence of the drainage is to reset the rigor to the first aquifer. Before Ecologistics express their comments, you need to focus that we are not talking about technical runoff or sewage. Ground and melting waters follow the first waterpath look like, but they are seeded through natural faults and breshers in the waterproof. In addition, water from the first aquifer cannot be used as drinking due to chemical and salt pollution.
At the floor of the basement there is a cape in the form of a cube with a side of 0.5 m. The clay floor is planned with a bias from all sides to the formed cavity and well compacted. It is possible to create several veils or one drainage trench, depending on the shape and size of the basement.
In the pit of a brown handbone with a crown of 50 mm a well bundled. Its function is to connect the basement with the first waterproof or sandy pocket, or to reach the thick deposits of the spike or mulk clay. On average, the depth of the well can be from 5 to 20 meters. PND 40 mm pipe is inserted into the well - the bottom edge is cast into a narrowing, on a plot of 2 meters from it, the walls are often perforated with holes of 8 mm. The reverse edge of the casing is trimmed at the floor level of the basement and also perforated. The veil is filled with a quartzite rubble fraction of 10-15 mm, the entire floor is also covered, a layer of about 10-15 cm.
On top of the draining pillow can even be equipped with a screed with lattices of drain and ventilation, but many suits the bulk sex, possibly with passing trap. It is important that with this method of drainage the basement is guaranteed to be dry, even if it is located in a flooded lowline.
The problem of groundwater and possible flooding of the basement - Two complex questions that should be addressed on the construction stage of the country house. Ignoring these moments can lead to such undesirable consequences as the destruction of the foundation, its sedimentation, flooding of the basement and the damage of all its contents, as well as floors of the first floor. How should the protective measures be taken to warn trouble? If still the problem failed to avoid what to do? Perhaps the following information will be useful for you.
What leads to increasing groundwater?
For example, it may be the spills of closely located rivers or an increase in water level provoked by abundant precipitation. Can we influence the first factor? We personally, like dackets, is unlikely. But to provide for the fastest removal of precipitation - we can.
How to remove groundwater?
So that the soil waters in the basement of the country house did not create problems, there should be no simplicity there. To do this, perform protective events. What to attribute to them? Well, firstly, this is the designed drainage and secondly, - waterproofing.
Waterproofing is necessary from moisture contained in the soil in any case, and when the groundwater proceeds significantly below the basement level, without affecting the underground part of the structure. All concrete surfaces can be treated with special water repellent compositions, conduct sealing of the Wall-Wall seams, "wall-floor". So we will be able to sealed ...
There is also injection waterproofing. Its essence is that all cracks are filled with multicomponent materials in composition. Thanks to the special properties, the substance administered under pressure from special equipment, the rapid fills all existing external and internal voids, hardens, thereby reliably overlapping access to water.
You can forget about the flooding of basements, if in addition to the waterproofing to take care of the drainage system on the site.
Option 1.
With the help of a bora, we will make several wells with a diameter of at least 10-15 cm, and a length of 3-5 meters on average. As a rule, this length is enough to provide fluids access to the water permeable layers through dense clay, which delay water, forcing it to accumulate. We lower the special pipe or fall asleep it with rubble to the upper boundary of the hole, cover the lid and fall asleep the earth. The wells, of course, should be done in the low-door parts of the site and build underwater paths to them on which flowing water will be sent. As a result, water is not accumulated in the upper soil layers, for example, during the rain or melting of snow, and through the waterproof layers of the soil. While very fast! Such wells are recommended to be done throughout the perimeter of the basement and in its surroundings.
Option 2.
You can also build a drainage system as follows. First of all, it is necessary to estimate the character of the slope in the country area, which in turn will determine the degree of liner. In addition, the greater the diameter of the pipe, the greater the bias. Thus, the independent flow of water to the side opposite is provided. On the perimeter of the house, dump the trenches and one more or two in the direction of the house for removing the liquid. They must be incurious about 1.5 meters, sewn 0.4 m, and the outlet bias must be below the basement level. Bottom with waterproofing terton, then geotextile (the material width should be sufficient to bite the subsequent elements of the entire system). The following layers are crushed 5 cm thick and directly pipes (under the required slope!). We fall asleep pipes with rubble, whose layer should be approximately 40 cm, close everything with geotextiles, smelling on top of sand and land. For smooth plots, the drainage well is additionally digging, where rainwater will be gathered. From time to time they are pumped out with the help of a pump.
If the basement has already flooded.
If we did not go about the organization of waterproofing during construction, and the basement was flooded, then it is necessary to drain it urgently, and then think about the drainage system. The correctly laid network of drainage pipes will collect and distinguish not only soil, but also thal, rainwater, constantly protecting the foundation, basements from excess moisture.
Drain the flooded room with a drainage or fecal type submersible pump. There is nothing complicated in their design, as well as operation that does not interfere with devices effectively solve their tasks. The choice of the model is entirely depends on the composition of the liquid on your site, the number and sizes of foreign particles in it. The drainage pump will perfectly cope with clean or highly contaminated water. However, the fecal rolls the whole fluid if it is not simply contaminated, but it contains trash, for example, particles in size of 50 mm.
The next paragraph should be the organization of the drainage network on the site with one of the two above methods.
According to the site: www.kak-sdelat.su.
Increased humidity in the cellar appears for various reasons. First of all, it is necessary to find out why it has risen, take measures to eliminate, and then lead it to normal. At the last stage - if necessary, to carry out disinfection. In any case, without properly organized ventilation and waterproofing, the problem will appear again and again. Therefore, before driving the cellar, check the ventilation pipes did not hit whether the waterproofing was injured.
Prevent the appearance of dampness
As usual, this "disease" is easier (and cheaper) to prevent than to treat. It is still solved at the design stage:
Inspect the floor
Very often in the cellar of the floor make earthen. Often it is a source of excessive humidity. Through it, the moisture contained in the ground falls inside. To reduce the moisture in the cellar, you need to align the ground floor, to the tump and set to the thick polyethylene film. You can use the runneroid, but it is more likely. Although it seems more durable, but breaks due to less elasticity.
Top on the film pouring sand or land is not necessary. Sometimes there is a large amount of water in the basement (random flooding). Then the film is simply removed, water takes part in the ground, partly evaporates through ventilation. After the dampness is gone, you can set the floor again. If the Earth or Sand will be from above, you will need to pick it up in this juicy, getting a film.
If the floor in the earth's cellar - through it and the most moisture comes
If after laying the film the level of humidity in the cellar decreased, then you found the reason. You can leave everything as it is, only periodically change the "flooring", and you can make a concrete floor with full waterproofing. The choice is yours. So that the film does not rush when it goes, run away wooden shields and throw them on the floor.
Improve waterproofing
The second reason why humidity increases in the basement - the insufficient degree of vapor barrier or waterproofing of the walls. This is usually found if the cellar is lined with bricks in particular - silicate. The material is very hygroscopic and well passes the water pairs. They settle drops on the ceiling and all objects.
The problem can be solved if you make good outer waterproofing: dig a wall and apply bitumen mastic in two layers. Previously, they were deceived by the resin, but the mastic is more efficient and easier in circulation.
But earthworks are far from always to joy, and not always the walls can be dug. In this case, you can make the inner waterproofing of the cellar walls. For this, there are impregnation based on cement: "Pink", "Calmatron", "Hydrotect", etc. They penetrate to a half-meter in the thickness of the material (concrete, brick, etc.) and block the capiles for which water seeps. The water permeability decreases at times. The only minus is the price. But they are really effective.
All these measures will prevent the emergence of high humidity in the basement. But what if the moisture is already there, how to dry the cellar? Next, consider ways to reduce humidity.
Preparatory work
From the basement, all reserves, as well as all wooden structures, are well cleaned. On the street inspect wood - shelves / boxes / boxes. If they are not injured, there are no fungus or mold, they are simply folded in the sunshine for drying. If there are traces of lesion, wood is impregnated with a solution of copper sulfate (a concentration of 5-10%, not more).
Good results gives the whims of lime - she will also "collect" moisture from the air. Therefore, before dying the basement makes sense to whitewash everything. Just do it not as outside. You need to apply a thick layer of lime on the walls. To do this, make a bucket of thick whitewings, add a bit of the diluted copper mood. It is an excellent disinfector, but the concentration should not be higher than 5-%, maximum - 10. The resulting thick liquid is spilled in half into two containers.
The first half is lowered into the basement, dressed in old things, put on glasses, cover hands. Take a painting brush for blissing (it is more like a small broom) and it is well aware of the corners. Then the brush is breaking out, and splash it on the walls and the ceiling. Just macat in thick whitewash and splash on the walls. They are covered with drops, lime tubercles.
After everything was covered with lime, we are waiting for a day until it gets up. Everyone repeat with the second bucket. As a result, the walls and ceiling are obtained porous and uneven. But the condensate on them is rarely hanging: lime is quite well kept moisture inside. After the lime gets free, you can begin drying the cellar.
Drain of basement with ventilation
Sometimes it happens: it was dry in the cellar, and suddenly dampness appeared. One of the reasons is bad ventilation. First of all, check the purity of Ventkanalov. If necessary - clean. If everything is fine, but dampness does not leave - it means the exhaust pipe works badly. It turns out when the air in the cellar is colder than on the street. Heavy and cold, he himself will not rise through the pipe. There is a paradoxical, at first glance, the situation: it was cold on the street and raw - it was dry in the cellar. Warmed - moisture drops hung and the ceiling, walls and objects, appeared a sharp smell. Here in this case, to dry the cellar, it is necessary to activate the movement of the air. There are several solutions.
Sometimes the increase in air movement leads to the fact that the humidity in the cellar does not decrease, but increases. This can often be observed in hot weather. The reason is that. Preheated air carries with itself a significant amount of moisture in the form of vapors. Finding into the cool cellar of the air cools, and the moisture condenses on the coldest surfaces: the ceiling, walls, sometimes on the shelves and banks. If you have such a case, then the ventilation stops. Even close the supply pipe and slam the lid well, limiting the inflow of warm air.
How to dry the cellar in this case? Wait for autumn, and when the rains are not yet, but the temperature is already + 10 ° C, start ventilation by one of the proposed methods. Works. If you have a cold night in the summer, you can turn on the fan overnight, and in the daytime of the vent rip. So gradually you can reduce the humidity in the cellar and in the summer.
Heat the cellar
If it is necessary to remove dampness even during warm weather, and ventilation only worsens the situation, you need to heat the air in the basement so that it comes out to the outside, carrying out moisture (the higher the air temperature, the more vapor it may contain).
To do this, take an old bucket or other metal container about the same volume. Make a lot of holes in it (you can ax) in the bottom and walls. Such a holey bucket is tied to the cable (secure securely). Inside, coals are poured for kebabs (you can burn yourself), the bucket should be almost complete. Coals incite and achieve stable burning (to overclock the burning, you can adapt the vacuum cleaner on blowing it out). The bucket with smoldering coals is lowered on the cable inside the cellar, they are fixed so that it hangs over the bottom, cover the lid.
Periodically, the cellar cover must be opened, inlet an additional portion of oxygen (every 20-30 minutes). You can put the fan on the supply tube or periodically turn on the same vacuum cleaner. If the coals still went out, they are burned again.
Attention! Inside it is better not to climb, do everything from above. First, the temperature there is high (indoors of about 2 * 3 meters about 70 ° C), secondly, the smoke accumulates and, maybe the carbon monoxide.
As coals burned, the bucket got, the cover was closed. Three days inside do not look: smoke and gases will kill mold and at the same time with a drying you will disinfive your cellar. Usually one such "firebox" is enough to dry the basement in the house or on the street. Similarly, you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.
Sometimes instead of charcoal use coke or stone coal. It gives a higher temperature and "Processing" passes longer, but it is harder to burn, it requires more oxygen, often - forced imaging (to adapt the old vacuum cleaner and corrugated, but turn it on blowing it). But the temperature rises even higher and dried is still more efficient. But the price of coke is large, even because of the purchase of a bucket and you will not break.
Instead of a bucket with burning coal, you can use other heaters:
- the burner on the propane (omitting the burning on the wire, to watch it so that she did not heat anything and leave hanging in the middle, as tired, the valve is closed, you can open the cover only every other day);
- thermal gun of decent power (3-5 kW);
- kirogas;
- lower to the basement bourgeois and protrud.
You can use all these ways, but you have to fall into the cellar in order to ignite Kirogas or Bourgehog. And this is an unsafe and alone such a way do not use such a way. It is necessary that someone insured you upstairs. Relative to the heat gun: it is also better to drag it with a cable (knitted), and not to descend.
How to dry the basement in the garage is told in the video.
How to dry the cellar without ventilation
If the ventilation did not do during construction, it is advisable to arrange it now. At least some: get rid of dampness will be easier. It is better, naturally, two pipes are one on the influx, the second on the outflow - as described at the beginning of the article. If the cellar is made separately on the street - it is easier to organize: struck the land and the roof of the cellar, inserted pipes, poured all with concrete solution.
It's more difficult with the garage, but it is decided here for aesthetics. But if the basement without ventilation under the house, make it all harder: the foundation is better not to break, and you will not stretch a lot of pipes in the floor to the room. But even in this case, do at least one pipe. Let even through the cover, output into the wall or ceiling, put the supplier fan. It can be included on the feed, then on the exhaust and in such a way, at least somehow drip the cellar.
Having at least such ventilation can be used by any of the methods described above. You can also try to collected moisture. For this inside Enclosed hygroscopic materials:
If all these dances with the tambourines do not inspire confidence (although they work), driving the cellar using modern technology. There are such household appliances - Household air dryers. They are more likely to put in the pools to get rid of dampness indoors. Need a model of average power. They cost about 20-30 thousand rubles, they work from the household network 220 V. In the process, moisture from the air in a special container. You will need to merge water periodically.
One way to dry the crude basement is to put a household air dryer
Disinfection and fighting fungi and mold
Increased humidity in the cellar will go to the fact that on the walls, shelves, the ceiling appears mold, fungi of different types and colors, and all this beauty is accompanied by "aromas". In this case, all that can be taken out of the cellar - take it out and lay out to be dried. Wooden shelves, boxes, boards, racks After drying, leverage with the addition of a solution of copper sulfate. Better twice.
In the cellar from the walls and the ceiling, you consider all the growths, whiten lime with copper vitriol twice (the technology is described at the beginning of the article). Before the main drying, you can spend special events that destroy the dispute (or for some time they are neutralized).
Couple lime
In the cellar put a barrel to pour a negro lime. Lime takes at the rate of 3 kg per 1 cubic meter volume. In the barrel of lime should be a maximum, a little more than half. All pour water. Do not interfere. Quickly get out and tightly (hermetically) close the lid and all ventilation channels. You can open two days later, to ventilate good, then you can go down.
Repeat processing after 7-10 days. Couples of lime should smear mold and fungi, destroy insects and their larvae. They also with smells of damp and sharpness very effectively cope. True, a few days in the cellar will smell lime.
Sulfur (smoke) checker
Use a sulfur checker. They are sold in stores selling seeds or workers. Each has an instruction. But, if briefly, you need to act according to the following scheme:
- take all metal things if it is impossible, cover their lubricant layer - solidol or something similar.
- Gilt the wick of sulfur checkers, it starts to smooth.
- Quickly come out, the lid and vent riples are hermetically close, leave for 5-6 hours.
If the basement in the house, it is desirable to leave it at the time of processing: a couple of breaths in insufficient tightness and the lungs will need to be put into order for a long time.
Disinfection occurs due to the formation of sulfuric acid. It is obtained with a sulfuric anhydride and water reaction. Therefore, it is more effective than mold with a sulfur checker killed in wet cellars.
After 5-6 hours (or after the time specified on the package), open the ventacanals and the lid (in such a sequence). Leave at least 12 hours open. Gas residues are weathered during this time. You can go.
From the experience of the operation of such checkers, it can be said that it is necessary to light them twice as much as the norm. Then everything will really be neutralized.
Mold removal tool
Sometimes white fluffy pigs appear on wood or walls. This is one of the types of fungi. It can be struggling with the methods described above, but if only it is present, it can be found in the construction market to remove a solid mounting foam (sell there, where and foam). Tube Insert into the mounting gun and apply to the places with fungus. It instantly begins to turn around. And then in this place does not appear.
Underfilling on the floor
If you have an earthen floor, the bed on it is a dense polyethylene film (for which it is described above), run the wooden grids and throw them on the floor. Under them to scream pieces of haired lime. And I will collect moisture to collect the fungi to create "bad" conditions.
How to dry the basement after flooding
If the flooding was random - you need to pump water in any available way, and then act according to the standard scheme:
- To make everything you can make their cellar.
- Leave for a while all the open lid and ventilation products.
- When more or less freeze, remove the garbage, fungi, mold from the walls and floor.
- Cheer lime.
- Dry one of the ways.
If the subtoping is periodic - in the spring, for example, you will have to make a full-fledged drainage system, and this is a separate conversation.
All the ways described above how to dry the cellar for the most part are based on practical experience. They enjoy everywhere and very often. In one case, one method works, in the other - the other. Your task is to find the most efficient for your situation.
When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin with problems with flooding cellars and basements. Such an unpleasant situation happens due to raising the level of groundwater. The land becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and keeps it in itself. If the level of groundwater rises above the foundation, then the moisture seeps into the room through the cracks.
The cause of the flooding of the basement is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, water bodies. Also on the level of groundwater affects the mounted snow and dropped precipitations in the form of rains. There are several ways to help cope with annual floodings. By choosing one of them, you will get to make a basement dry.
Creating a drainage system
Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and well. With it, it is possible to prevent flooding of basement, as well as dry the land. The drainage system is made at the basement construction phase. The correctly installed system will help once and forever forget about the water in the basement and protect the foundation from destruction.
How the drainage system works
The basis of drainage is a pipe of large diameter (not less than 100 mm). It has holes over the entire surface. Through them, groundwater is seeping into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, it is necessary to create the following conditions:
- Drop the trench with a slope around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and running.
- Be sure to use filter materials (geotextiles and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from pouring.
- To carry out drainage to the central sewage where the large amount of groundwater will accumulate.
What is necessary:
- drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
- small, washed crushed stone;
- geotextile canvas;
- river sand.
Installation
- Make a trench below the floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the construction. The trench should be sufficient to flow water, slope.
- In the dug trench, put the geotextile web. And then pour with rubble (layer thickness 10 cm). Thus, you will create a primary layer, filtering groundwater.
- At the next stage, laid the drainage tube (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on the crushed stone layer. Controls so that the slope is saved throughout the trench. With the help of a tee, lay the output tube to the well.
- Cutted pipe, completely fill with rubble. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Free edges of the geotextile canvas fold on top of a chicted litter. This will fully isolate drainage from the soil. After that, pour the trench sand.
As a result, you will get a reliable drainage system. Geotextile and crushed stone perform filter function, not allowing you to score a perforated pipe. And the sand will ensure moisture transportation from the soil surface into the drainage canal.
Output
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help to eliminate the main cause of flooding - a high level of groundwater. The result of the work of the drainage will be the dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own essential drawback. Drainage channels are accepted (by technology) to install outside the room, so not all cellars will turn out to be so equipped.
However, in exceptional cases, basement owners can build drainage channels indoors. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some points occurring at the floor screed. After installing the inner drainage system, the basement will lose 30 cm height.
Creating an automatic water pumping system
Not all owners of basements have the opportunity to create a bias with the water drainage system. Therefore, another method is used in such sites. To delay the room install an automatic extensive water pumping system.
What does that require:
- Create a deepening (pit) in the basement. Drop the yat with a size of 50x50x50 cm. Then strengthen it with concrete or brickwork - it must be done to prevent the destruction of the walls. Pour in the pit of gravel 10 cm thick.
- Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water is accumulated.
Installation
In the dug apart, place the pump, connect the hoses to it and turn them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the pit. The pump will earn, reacting to the rising level, and rolls out excess moisture. So continues until the soil waters finally fall.
Output
A fairly simple system that is inexpensive. Quickly installed and easily adjusted. But this system has two essential drawbacks. The first, the pump is working properly until it exhausted its resource, and then it will have to be replaced. The second, the reservoir system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but only to take rid of the consequences.
Creating waterproofing in the basement
Waterproofing walls and gender helps to provide a high-quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bitumen mastic and plaster. Apply layers above the level of flooding with a height margin, in case the groundwater will rise.
What does that require:
- Buy materials: hydrotect or penetron, bitumen mastic, sand, waterproof cement, metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
- Collect the necessary tools: a rigid brush and a spatula for applying compositions, an iron brush for grouting between bricks or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the solution.
- Prepare a basement: roll out the water - for this it is convenient to use the "Baby" pump with the lower absorption. After drying, clean the floor surface and walls from dirt. Speat the seam brushes, corners, cracks.
Installation
- Treat concrete floor and wall penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs the macrobrees through which the water penetrates the basement.
- Then wake the corners, seams, cracks with bitumen mastic. Then, in the same way, apply mastic on the remaining surface of the walls and gender. The layer thickness must be at least 2 cm.
- Attach the metal grille to the wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare cement mortar, medium viscosity. With the spatula, apply a layer of plaster with a thickness of 3 cm.
- Put the metal mesh on the floor and fill with liquid cement mortar and allow time to dry. On this, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered completed.
Output
The waterproofing layer prevents fragmentation of groundwater through cracks. He also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of the walls and gender. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to the drainage system, which does not work out in all basements.
So, above the presented methods of combating flooding of the basement, help get rid of excess water. Everyone has its own features of installation, dignity and disadvantages. Select the method must be based on specific purposes and financial capabilities.
Video: how to make drainage in the basement do it yourself