All phalaenopsis are eliphites. They grow in nature on large trees, plant stumps as a support. The flower has one stem, there is no branching. Its height reaches 10-100 cm. Orchid leaves grow slowly, as does the stem. Only a few green leaves may appear in a year. They are formed during the flowering period. It lasts 3 months. At first, the upper buds bloom, while the lower ones are still forming.
How are diseases different from pests?
Reference. Phalaenopsis disease is a common occurrence, the main cause of which is improper care... Diseases can be fungal, viral, and rot is also common.
Each of them has its own symptoms that make it possible to distinguish them from. Most often, when a flower is affected by a disease, the leaves almost instantly darken, dry up and fall off (you can learn more about leaf diseases). And when insects visited the plant, this whole process occurs gradually: the leaves become covered with spots, slowly fade and only then fall off. This allows the grower to react in time and save the flower.
The most common diseases of phalaenopsis include:
What are the reasons?
The following reasons can affect the development of the disease in an orchid:
- Violation of the light regime. Phalaenopsis belongs to the shade-tolerant types of orchids. They feel comfortable on the windowsills facing north.
Note! The sun's rays are dangerous for them and thermal burns may develop if they directly penetrate the leaves. They do not significantly harm the plant, but they leave behind ugly spots.
- Improper watering. The orchid prefers high humidity, but reacts negatively to constant watering. As a result, rot and leaf fall may occur.
- Low temperature. At home, the orchid has little chance of freezing. Most often this happens during transportation from a store or when moving. The affected areas become covered with white spots and die off. A similar effect can occur when spraying a plant at low temperatures and as a result of poor ventilation.
How to determine what happened?
The difficulty in making a correct diagnosis is that some of the external signs are similar to those of pests. So to make a final diagnosis, you have to carefully examine the flower.
If not only symptoms of damage were found on it, but also insects, then most likely they are the cause of the problem. In addition, you need to know the main symptoms of common orchid diseases. Then it will be possible to understand for sure whether it is a pest or a disease.
What parts of the plant are damaged?
Most often, the defeat is inflicted on the leaves, roots and stem of the plant. The leaf plate begins to turn yellow, wither and dry out. The stalk darkens and decays. The root system is most often affected by rot, as a result of which its roots rot and die off (read how to care for orchid roots).
Description of problems, photos and treatment
Check out the photos of each disease and its description.
it fungal disease which is formed for the reason high humidity and stagnant water. As a result, burns form on the leaves of the plant.
To combat the disease, it is necessary to remove all affected areas to healthy tissue, and then sprinkle them with ash. If the lesion is massive, then the plant has to be completely treated with Mikosan preparations. Place the orchid in a dry room and constantly drain the water from the pan.
The main reason for the development of the disease is care errors. The defeat is applied to the leaves of the plant.
To combat the disease, cut off the diseased areas, sprinkle the cut areas with activated carbon powder. For disinfection, you can use a 20% alcohol solution. If the lesion is too extensive, use Mikosan, Skor or Ridomil.
High humidity and temperature can affect this disease. You can recognize the ailment by the whitish bloom on the leaves.
When the first signs are found, water the orchid thoroughly, and after 2 hours treat it with a solution of colloidal sulfur using a spray bottle. You can also use Fitosporin. Spray the leaves with them 3-4 times with an interval of 10 days.
You can use folk remedies, for example, soap and soda solution. For its preparation, take 25 g of soda, 5 g liquid soap, 5 l hot water... First, dissolve the soda in water, and only then add the soap. As soon as the solution cools down, spray it every 7-10 days.
This disease affects orchid leaves, which become sticky (read about sticky leaves in phalaenopsis). The resulting black bloom prevents the leaves from receiving sufficient sunlight, so the plant weakens.
For treatment, use the drug Mikosan, Ridomil, Topsin-M, Skor. Folk remedies are powerless here.
Rot
Black
It is one of the most common. The first manifestations of the disease are observed 12 hours after the lesion. Young shoots are most often affected. They turn black and become covered with a sticky coating.
Important! If black rot is found, it is necessary to isolate the diseased plant from the healthy one.
The transmission of a harmful fungus occurs by contact, so that the treatment is difficult. Its essence is that you need to remove the affected areas, and treat the cuts with cinnamon or sulfur blemish. After they dry out, treat them with a fungicide.
Watch a video on how to cure Phalaenopsis from a fungal infection on the cervix:
Root
It is a bacterial disease that develops in high humidity and high temperatures. The orchid begins to darken and the roots begin to rot. At the same time, the leaves acquire a specific brown tint.
Root resuscitation should be started by treating the plant with a fungicide solution and removing the affected areas. The soil is also processed. To do this, use Fundazol or Topsin. Carry out processing at least 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks.
We talked about the treatment of this root disease, take a look at how this problem looks in the photo:
Gray
it the disease is the result of a violation of the rules of care. With the development of gray rot, spots appear on the flowers. They are dark in color, and then they are covered with a gray bloom.
Note! If untreated, the plant will weaken and die.
Treatment is reduced to removing the affected areas and treating fungicides. If after the first treatment there is no positive result, then a similar drug cannot be used, since the pathogen of gray rot has acquired resistance to it. But with the extension of this process to the entire sheet plate, urgent measures must be taken. Help your orchid if it gets sick and save it from death.
How to save?
Here detailed plan how to reanimate an orchid yourself:
- Rinse the roots, remove the affected ones.
- Prepare a container, pour expanded clay on the bottom, and carefully steamed and cleaned sphagnum on top.
- Moisten the mixture well.
- Lay a leaf rosette and until the plant has roots with a length of 3-5 cm, keep it under cover.
- To resuscitate an orchid, you must observe following conditions: temperature 22-28 degrees, humidity - 70-100%. Lighting should be 12-14 hours a day.
So that the orchid blooms and delights for a long time bright colors, and the disease never struck her, the florist will have to observe the following preventive measures:
Phalaenopsis is a type of orchid that, when complete care disease resistant. But you shouldn't relax. The flower grower should regularly inspect the plant, and if abnormalities are found, immediately begin treatment.
Phalaenopsis is the most popular orchid hybrid. He is distinguished by his capriciousness, subject negative impact many diseases are susceptible to pests.
Therefore, in addition to proper care for him, you need to know how to deal with pests and "sores". Let's take a closer look at these issues.
Phalaenopsis orchid diseases
This orchid can have a lot of diseases. We will list only the main ones, and find out how they manifest themselves.
Powdery mildew
Refers to fungal infections. It manifests itself in the form of a plaque on leaf plates. It can be white or magenta... The appearance of the flower changes as if it was sprinkled with white powder.
The disease is very insidious and can completely kill the plant. The main reason for its manifestation is the increased temperature and humidity of the air in the room, which provoke the "steaming" of the flower.
For prevention purposes, it is necessary to systematically spray the flower with Fitosporin. If the flower is already sick, then it is necessary to apply Skor spray, or a mixture based on colloidal sulfur.
Spotting
Also bacterial in nature. Its main symptoms are a change in the color of the leaves to darker, sometimes yellow ones. They develop ulcers that constantly release fluid. The leaves can also lose their elasticity and fall off.
Treatment of this ailment consists in removing the diseased leaf or treating the ulcer with iodine solutions.
Anthracnose
A very common disease. It appears, as a rule, on sheet plates. At first, small round spots form on them, which gradually begin to turn black. After a while, a yellow bloom appears on these spots.
The cause of the disease is high air humidity, as well as the accumulation of liquid in the leaf plates.
Rust
Fungal infection. It affects the leaves. The most "sensitive" to this disease are weak and young flowers. Rust begins to "act" from the inside of the leaf and gradually turns outward in the form of red spots. Fungus causes infection.
Rust control methods are quite simple - all affected leaves must be treated with alcohol, and then sprayed with agents such as Skor, Mikasan or Ritomil.
Fusarium, root, gray and brown rot
Gray rot is a frequent "companion" of Phalaenopsis. This disease manifests itself in the form of gray spots on the sheets, which can have a wide variety of shapes. From above, such spots are fluffy. The main reasons for the appearance of such rot are the same high humidity air.
Almost any rot can be fought by systematically spraying the plant with Kendal. It acts in such a way that on long time protects the plant from diseases, and successfully copes with rot.
Root rot appears on those flowers that are already susceptible to the negative influence of various fungi and bacteria. To get rid of the problem, you need to treat the affected leaf with colloidal sulfur.
Another common Phalaenopsis disease is fusarium rot. The leaf plates begin to turn yellow and curl. The color of such rot has gray tint... It is necessary to treat with 0.3% Fundazole solution.
Brown rot appears as bright brown “rashes” on the sheets. You can deal with it using the same methods as in previous cases.
Sooty mushrooms
Young and weak flowers located in poorly ventilated rooms with high air humidity can be infect. But, main reason, on which the fungus appears - pests (aphids, whiteflies, etc.).
Sooty fungi clog the pores of the plant, disrupt metabolic processes in its system. If this infection spreads to the entire "organism" of the flower, it can lead to its death.
Treatment of orchid diseases Phalaenopsis
The main cause of Phalaenopsis diseases is high air humidity and improper care. And, if you notice any manifestations of "sores", then most likely the plant will die (if you do not take action).
What to do in case of a flower disease:
These measures will be enough to heal the flower.
Phalaenopsis orchid pests
Let's now figure out what pests Phalaenopsis have, and how to deal with them.
Aphid
Aphids can be: gray, green, black and yellow. It "settles" on thin sprouts and peduncles. It can hit the plant while still in the store, or fly through the window. He builds his "farm" on the flower.
Aphids can eat the roots of Phalaenopsis, which further leads to the complete death of the plant. You can get rid of the pest with the help of fungicides.
Whiteflies
Outwardly they look like white fluffy butterflies. They eat the stems, flowers and leaves of the plant, causing it to turn yellow. Plants with thick and dense leaves are not affected.
Whiteflies lay their larvae yellow color, which can be located both on the leaves of the flower, and under them, less often on the stems.
Thrips
Small pests 2-5 mm. in length, they look like elongated "sticks", which have 2 pairs of wings, and move very quickly. Thrips, as soon as they sit on the plant, immediately try to hide in it, therefore, they can be identified only at night, and only with the help of a flashlight.
They manifest themselves as small black dots on the sheets, they can create some "roots" that look like various plexuses. These insects lay eggs in the tissue of the leaf plate, therefore, it is very difficult to get rid of them.
Shields
Measuring 1-2 mm., Scale insects densely plant the leaves of the flower, and remain there for a long time, up to several months. Females have neither legs nor wings, and when they eat the plant, they secrete a viscous liquid.
Most often, scale insects settle on the plant in whole groups, and if you remove the pest from the leaf, then a kind of wound will remain on it, which must be sprinkled with coal or cinnamon.
Mites
Several types of mites can be "found" on the orchid. The most difficult thing is to determine whether the color has become infected at home or else in the store. The main pests of this family practically do not differ from each other, but the symptoms of their "presence" are the same, and appear as white dots on the leaves.
As a result, the flowers of the plant begin to curl, fall off, a cobweb becomes noticeable on them. The ticks themselves can be yellow or red, and their larvae are greenish and almost invisible.
Most often on Phalaenopsis, you can find: common tick, false spider mite and flattened tick. All these types of bodies are divided into 3 parts: middle, back and front.
There is also a root mite, which is the roots of a flower. It penetrates into the interior of the plant, making hollow filaments from the roots. As a result, the plant dies completely. The color of such a tick is yellow or white, its shape is oval.
The carapace mite resembles a pea, there is plant organics. You can find it on leaf plates, bulbs and on the walls near the flower. Lays the larvae gray, found on the plant without any problems.
Mealybug
It resembles a light fluffy lump. If you look closely, you will notice that it has antennae, and the body is ribbed, adapted for rapid movement over the plant.
The mealybug is the most dangerous for the plant, since its presence at the initial pores is practically not manifested in any way. And when the leaves are already starting to turn yellow, then, most likely, the plant can no longer be saved.
This pest is carried along with dust, wind, etc. It often climbs onto Phalaenopsis from another infected plant. Also, it can be in the soil where the flower is planted.
Developing and colonizing, the pests begin to lay eggs in prominent places of the flower, but always in the shade. At first, young individuals will stick together, and then they will begin to creep away, looking for new places to "settle".
Phalaenopsis orchid pest control methods
After purchasing a flower, do not immediately put it on the windowsill. Especially, near other flowers or plants, as they may already have pests, or they are already "sick".
What are the flowering problems associated with?
Phalaenopsis is most often acquired precisely because of its simply amazing flowering. But, bad light and insufficient ventilation of the room can lead to the fact that the flowers become lethargic.
If spots of any color appear on the sheets, then this may also indicate stuffiness in the room, or too low a temperature. If there is no color at all, the reason lies in the wrong temperature.
The color may not be due to diseases of the peduncles. The most common ones are:
- Green bloom. The reason is high humidity, algae formation. Such a plaque must be removed with gauze dipped in water or potassium permanganate, soap solution;
- Cracks. Arise due to the careless movement of the flower;
- Yellowing and wilting of leaves. The reasons are improper watering, too frequent treatment of the flower with Fundazol;
- Bacterial rot. It is removed by complete removal of the affected leaf plates. Fungicides can be used;
- Viral activity. It appears as dark spots, stripes and streaks. Such a plant must be destroyed;
- Sunburn. They are "treated" by moving the flower to a darker place, and all wilted flowers are removed.
Prevention and care at home
- Make sure that there are no spots or any other "pathologies" on the leaves and flowers;
- Protect the plant from mechanical damage, shaking, etc .;
- If the stem or flower is broken, the cut site must be disinfected;
- Do not allow too much moisture or dryness of the soil;
- It is important to provide Phalaenopsis correct lighting and temperature regime;
- Process the plant systematically with special fertilizers.
Orchid is not so much today rare plant v indoor flower garden... However, it is susceptible to various diseases and requires special care... Sorry to find any full information about flower maintenance, orchid diseases and their treatment is difficult.
Therefore, we have tried to cover the common problems and difficulties of growing an orchid.
Problems with orchid flowering, ways to eliminate them
it indoor plant quite demanding and moody. Therefore, if you just brought it home after buying it and it starts to fade, this is not unusual. You just need to choose for him appropriate place and take care of it properly.
Orchid does not bloom
In order not to worry about the flowering of the orchid, even during the purchase it is necessary to clarify what kind of variety it is and what kind of flowering period it has. The fact is that different types flowers bloom in different time ... But it happens that the expected flowering does not occur, while the green mass continues to grow. The main reasons for the lack of buds are as follows:
- sudden changes in temperature;
- improper watering;
- violation of the rest regime;
- lack of light.
Did you know? The most common cause of a plant's lack of flowers is a lack of light, which causes the plant itself to wilt. Most orchid varieties do not thrive even in partial shade, but varieties such as papiopedilum and phalaenopsis can bloom in such conditions.
The lack of light is indicated by the color of the leaves: they turn bright green, while their natural color is light green. If the leaves turn yellow, this indicates an excessive amount of ultraviolet radiation, that is, excessive lighting. Control measures: the flower should be placed in a more illuminated place or removed in partial shade.
Another common problem with no flowering is root diseases... It is difficult to define it. Sometimes, even when the roots are rotting, the orchid continues to bloom.
But if she did not please with flowering for a long time, and everything is in order with the lighting, you should check root system... Most often, it begins to rot due to over-watering.
In this case, plant transplantation and removal of damaged parts of the rhizome will help. Periodic transplantation is in principle beneficial for its development.
Orchid buds wither
As a rule, in this case the problems are the same as described above. But there may be additional reasons. First of all, the orchid is very sensitive to a change of residence. If you've recently bought it and brought it home, it's no surprise that orchid buds wither and fall off.
Important! Lighting plays a major role in this process. It is logical that in the greenhouse it was suitable and sufficient, but in your home it may not be enough or, conversely, be too much. Please note that there are shade-loving and light-loving varieties of orchids, this point must be clarified when buying a plant. So, on the northern and northeastern windows, you can grow cambrias and phalaenopsis. Angrekum cymbidiums, laelias, cattleyas, wandas and others are considered light-loving.
Also, there may be problems with hypothermia of orchids. These are very thermophilic plants, so you need to make sure that the temperature in the room does not drop below 22 ° C in winter. Please note that the air humidity must be at least 70%, otherwise the flowers will also begin to fall off.
The orchid loves good air circulation, but does not tolerate drafts. She also reacts sharply to presence of a number of different food products especially fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene. He provokes accelerated maturation buds that can wither and fall off without even opening.
Another reason for the wilting of buds can be pests... In particular, mealybugs feed on their sap, leading to premature death of the bud.
Do not forget that the wilting and dropping of flowers is a natural process. Duration of flowering different varieties is also not the same. Some delight with variegated flowers for several months, others for several weeks. It is likely that you bought the plant after flowering.
Dark spots on flowers
Sometimes they do not arise due to disease, but due to mechanical damage during transportation of the plant. Such spots do not spread along the flower, dry out, and have uneven edges.
However, mottling can occur due to moisture on the petals during watering or condensation when the plant was transported in a package. Because of this, flowers can not only become stained, but also fall off. 
If, at the same time, the plant is still in the sun, then in places where water hits the petals, a burn may occur - the water will work like a lens.
Did you know? A fungal disease can lead to brown spots on the flowers. In this case, they can deteriorate literally overnight, when the entire plant is covered with spots. In this case, the affected leaves and stems will be watery, and a moldy coating may appear on them.
Rot: prevention and treatment
Most often with indoor growing orchids have to deal with rot. Moreover, the problems mainly arise due to over-grooming.
The plant develops watery light brown spots on the leaves. Mostly young. After some time, they darken, grow, gradually merging with each other. Moreover, the lower the temperature environment, the more abundant watering, the faster these processes occur.
If you have just discovered these signs of orchid disease, you can still help it, cutting out damaged areas with a sharp instrument grabbing some healthy tissue. Cut edges should be treated with a preparation containing copper or crushed coal.
If these manipulations cannot be done, the flower cannot be saved. It is better to get rid of it before the disease spreads to other flowerpots.
Most often, brown bacterial rot is susceptible to orchid varieties such as papiopedilum, cymbidium, cattleya, phalaenopsis. Prevention of such diseases consists in spraying the plant with a solution copper sulfate once a month.
affects plant roots, which soften and deteriorate. In this case, the leaves of the plant acquire a brown tint. The reason for these processes is too high air humidity and temperature.
To get rid of the disease, it is necessary to adjust the conditions of the plant, as well as treat the roots and soil with a topsin solution (0.2%) or a foundationol solution (0.2%)... This must be done three times, with an interval of about three weeks. As a rule, for this, the pot is immersed in a solution.
To prevent disease, you should use a high-quality substrate for planting, previously disinfected. Most often, orchids of the varieties papiopedilum, miltonia, cymbidium need such care.
Orchid is also characterized by such a leaf disease as gray rot
... It is easy to define it: dark islands appear on the leaves, covered with a fluffy gray bloom. Gradually, rot from the leaves passes to the soil, then to the flowers, and then to the entire plant as a whole. The disease can begin with flowers, covering them with small brown spots.
The disease occurs due to improper care - high humidity in combination with low temperatures. But sometimes the cause is an excessive enthusiasm for fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, which reduces the plant's resistance to this disease.
- it is a fungal disease. Therefore, to combat it, damaged areas must be removed from the plant, and its completely treat with fungicides.
Moreover, if the selected drug did not help and after a while the signs of the disease appeared again, another drug must be used. When watering, you should use agents that increase the plant's resistance to disease.
Important! Try not to put orchids close to each other or other plants. Then, in the event of gray rot on one plant, the spores of the fungus will not be able to spread to the neighboring one.
Most willingly, gray rot "settles" on orchids that bloom with white flowers: cattleya, cymbidium, phalaenopsis.
A fungal disease occurs when the flower is in a too cold room. Especially if before that the plant was sick or survived an attack of pests. In this case, the spots on the leaves of the orchid are removed with a sharp and sterile instrument, and the cut edges are processed with Bordeaux liquid or charcoal.
Next, the plant must be transplanted into another pot or into the same, but pre-sterilized... It is planted in a fresh sterile substrate, and the former must be disposed of. After transplanting, the plant creates the necessary conditions.
Frequent patients with a similar diagnosis are orchids of the Cattleya and Pafiopedilum varieties.
If orchid leaves turn yellow or spots appear on them, you will probably have to deal with fusarium rot. In this case, the leaves soften, curl, and the spores of the fungus give them a pinkish tint.
The main cause of such diseases is high humidity with poor air circulation. Most often, orchids of the varieties Epidendrum, Miltonia, Phalaenopsis suffer from this disease if the necessary conditions are not met.
As a treatment, it is recommended processing the plant three times a day with a solution of foundationol (0.2%). Treat all plants carefully, as rot spots can appear on the shoots as well. At the same time, for the period of treatment, it is necessary to abandon spraying the plant, make sure that it does not stand in drafts.
Leaf diseases: symptoms, prevention and treatment
Orchid diseases can be viral, bacterial or fungal in nature and manifest themselves in completely different ways: in the form of plaque, stains, rot... Accordingly, each disease has its own method of treatment.
Important! Almost all orchids lose their color over time, even with proper care... The lack of light weakens the plant's immunity, but the light-loving orchid does not tolerate direct sunlight. Especially carefully it is necessary to accustom the orchid to the spring sun, shading those plants that stand on the south side so that they do not receive sunburn... Gradually getting used to the sun, flowers will require shading only on a hot afternoon.
Most often, this fungal disease affects the leaves of the plant. Tiny but distinct round brown spots appear on them, which grow larger, connecting with each other. Large affected areas turn black, forming dips. If the plant is sick for a long time, a pink or yellowish bloom may appear in these areas.
Causes: stagnant water in leaf axils and high air humidity.
Treatment begins by trimming the affected areas. The sections must be treated with ash or activated carbon, and the plant itself must be treated with preparations containing copper. Processing is carried out three times with intervals of ten days. In this case, it is necessary to reduce watering and completely abandon feeding.
To prevent the appearance of fungus it is necessary to ensure that the air humidity does not exceed 70% and does not fall below 40%, while regularly and well ventilate the room. Watch for water in the leaf axils and pseudobulbs. If it collects there, remove it in time with a napkin or cloth.
Orchids of the Phalaenopsis, Pafiopedilum, Oncidium, Miltonia varieties are mainly susceptible to a similar disease.
Phalaenopsis orchids are most susceptible to this disease. First, on infected plants, the leaves turn yellow, then darken, then soften and crack. Liquid appears in the resulting ulcers.
To get rid of the disease,such areas are cut out with a sterile and sharp instrument, the sections are treated with iodine or activated carbon... If there are a lot of spots or the lobar vein is damaged, the treatment must be carried out with stronger preparations. If, after such procedures, no relapse occurs within 10 days, then the plant has recovered and is not contagious.
The disease occurs due to too bright lighting in the warm season, excessive enthusiasm for fertilizers or improper watering.
Broken leaves can cause normal mechanical damage. However, in some cases, they indicate insufficient watering of the orchid or its severe hypothermia after watering. 
Also pay attention to fertilizers. If they contain too much nitrogen, this can also cause deformation of the leaves of the plant: thickening, fractures, cracks, discoloration to dark green.
To get rid of the problem, it is enough to abandon fertilization for a while. It is also recommended to rinse the roots of the plant and replant it. Please note that after this procedure, the orchid may stagnate for a while - this is a normal process.
This kind of damage usually appears on plants in spring and summer. When the sun's activity increases. Orchids need light in a large number, but scattered, and the direct rays of the sun for her, as a rule, are destructive and cause burns.
The remaining droplets of moisture on the leaves and petals provoke similar consequences. In this case, water, multiplying the power of the sun's rays, contributes to the burn of the leaves - discolored areas with a brown edge appear on them. They dry out over time, forming holes.
The affected plant must be shaded by giving Special attention watering, but not flooding the flower. Severely damaged areas must be removed by processing the cut edges. It is better not to use top dressing during this period.
About the appearance powdery mildew is talking white bloom on the leaves and buds of the flower. The areas covered by it dry out over time, and the plant itself dies. A disease occurs in conditions of high humidity in combination with high temperature- the so-called greenhouse effect. 
As soon as you find signs of this disease, you should immediately adjust the care and start treatment. For this the plant is treated with preparations "Topsin-M", "Skor" or a solution of colloidal sulfur.
As a preventive measure the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin. This is recommended for all indoor orchids, as any of them has a risk of picking up powdery mildew.
A relatively rare, but no less dangerous disease. It also has a fungal nature and primarily affects the leaves of the plant.
And it strikes at first lower part leaf, forming light spots. Over time, red pads appear on them, in which the spores of the fungus ripen. Note that the disease appears on the weakest parts of the plant.
To get rid of From him, it is necessary to remove the affected areas, no matter how large they are. Do not forget to disinfect the cut sites with a 20% alcohol solution or activated carbon. Also recommended to treat the plant with preparations "Mikosan", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".
The plant becomes ill due to the appearance of various pests on it: white scale insects, mealybugs, aphids. Its spores multiply well in their sweet secretions. 
The fungus grows, clogging the stomata of the leaves. As a result, the plant does not receive the required amount light weakens and, if left untreated, dies. Treatment consists of processing with the same preparations: "Mikosan" "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".
Orchid viral diseases
Oddly enough, but orchids can also be sick with viral diseases. If a similar diagnosis is found in one plant, it must be urgently removed from others and destroyed. Doesn't exist in any way effective methods treating plants from viruses.
The most unpleasant thing is that the virus does not appear in the plant for a long time. It can be evidenced by the changed shape and color of the plant. Remember: if you have several flowerpots and common watering in one container, all plants are infected.
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Diseases of Phalaenopsis orchids, which are most often grown in at home, are rare, but their appearance, including stains and yellowing, signals improper care, as well as other causes, including the natural aging of the plant.
If the plants bloomed, and then suddenly stopped, which is accompanied by the appearance of other problems, then urgent measures should be taken to correct the errors of care. It is possible to develop a treatment regimen and begin the process of plant healing only after its visual examination and determination of the root cause of the disease.
General information about the Phalaenopsis orchid
Phalaenopsis orchids are quite undemanding and easy to grow at home, thanks to which this plant has become very popular among flower growers in our country. However, quite often flower lovers, especially beginners, do not know the reasons why spots appear or the leaves of their orchids are withered.
The further the moment of treatment is from the onset of the first symptoms of the disease, the more difficult it is to cope with the problem. It is better to familiarize yourself with the main forms of manifestation of the most common diseases of orchids grown at home by looking at the photos of plants during the period of the disease, so it will be easier for you to determine what problem your flower has and how to deal with it.
Why are the leaves shriveled
Sometimes the leaves of any type of orchid become rather soft and completely lose their turgor, and the plant itself looks too lethargic and sheds its green mass. There are several reasons why houseplants experience these leaf modifications.
- This may mean that there is a significant problem with the root system, and it has ceased to fully supply water to the leaves of the plant, which is most often the result of improper care.
- The reason may be the general weakening of the plant, which may subsequently die altogether.
- Withering and loss of leaf elasticity can occur due to improper watering and other water treatments.
- In Phalaenopsis, as well as Wands, the lowest leaves may turn yellow and even fall off for natural reasons.
Leaves on Phalaenopsis live for a very long time in conditions of high-quality care, but, of course, not forever, and dropping them, starting from the lowest leaf, while maintaining the total healthy looking plants are not a problem.
Beginners in the field of floriculture should remember that the leaves on Phalaenopsis can most often wilt, lose elasticity or fall off for several reasons, including overflow or, conversely, constant overdrying of the plant, as well as too cold conditions and improper care. The plant should be treated based on the root cause of the disease, and photos and descriptions of diseases in books for florists and on specialized sites on the Internet will help determine it.
How to get rid of gray mold (video)
Why did black spots and white dots appear on the leaves, how to treat
Have healthy orchid Phalaenopsis species, the leaves should always shine and shine, and also not have spots. However, as a result of a number of reasons, spots on the leaves can still appear.
- Burn spots can occur on leaves as a result of spraying plants in the sun. Such "sunburns" are light and dry.
- Orchids, when grown at home, can be carriers for a very long time viruses and various diseases and not detect it in any way. The first signs of disease manifestation are black spots that first appear on the lower leaves of the plant.
- From the use of excessively hot water during shower procedures, the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid species can also appear of various sizes. black spots.
- Calcium salt stains cannot be attributed to disease symptoms, since they appear due to the use of hard water. To remove them, wipe the leaves of the plant with a weak solution of orange or diluted lemon juice. Such processing must be done with extreme caution.
Florists should remember that if wet spots appear on the leaves of plants cultivated at home, then they must be urgently removed. This should be done as quickly as possible, since these spots grow very quickly and can provoke rotting of the whole plant and the appearance of a number of other diseases. To remedy the situation, it is enough to assess the extent of the changes from the photo, develop a treatment regimen and adjust the care.
You can find out about the reasons for the appearance of black spots on the leaves and flowers of orchids.
Why do the leaves become soft
There are several reasons why the leaves of an orchid like Phalaenopsis become too soft and lose their natural turgor.
- If the leaves of any indoor orchid become soft or too sluggish, root damage may be the root cause.
- Often limp leaves of this indoor flower become due to a strong moisture deficit or a significant violation of all irrigation measures and the basics of care.
- Sometimes the leaves have indoor orchid can become soft, and also lose turgor as a result of excessive moisture of the planting substrate. At the same time, the plant looks rather lethargic.
Beginners in growing Orchid plants at home should remember that if the condition of the plant worsens day after day, they turn yellow and become soft leaves, this indicates problems with the root system, and the plant needs urgent rescue and care control.
However, it is impossible to draw hasty conclusions, and even more so to treat orchids without complete data on the state of the plant. To effectively cope with the problem, you should, first of all, correctly assess the current situation.
Other orchid diseases and their treatment
As a rule, failures in the plant's vital activity system are associated with diseases and consist in the following manifestations, which are easily identifiable from the photo:
- Swelling of the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid species can be associated with prolonged contact of the plant with moisture.
- Viral diseases in a plant are quite rare, and appear in the form of mosaic spotting of leaves and flowers.
- Some diseases are characterized by the appearance of small spots in the form of arrows, as well as a kind of circles or stripes.
- Spots on the leaves can be a manifestation of the bacterial bloom of the plant.
- There may be a change in leaf coloration as a result of anthracnose or powdery mildew.
- Quite often, such indoor plants are affected by rust or soot, black fungi, as well as various rot.
Orchid diseases are of great concern to collectors of these beautiful indoor plants. If an orchid gets sick, first isolate it from the rest and immediately engage in diagnosis and treatment. Smart Tips come to the rescue. We show you orchid diseases in a photo and tell you how to deal with them.
Read in this article:
A quick guide to orchid diseases and their treatment
If your collection of orchids is valuable and important to you, then the first thing you should take care of is to isolate from the access of various pests and diseases. And they can appear:
- from a new houseplant brought into the house;
- a bouquet of flowers located nearby;
- poor quality infected substrate during transplantation;
- unsuitable water for irrigation;
- with over-fertilization and lack of fertilizers;
- from storing nearby infected (and this is not always visible) fruits and vegetables:
- damp cold air and mold;
- draft, etc., etc., etc.
So who will say after this that the orchid is an unpretentious houseplant, as many flower growers say.
Signs of orchid diseases associated with flowering
Of course, we grow orchids for the sake of long-lasting lush and extraordinarily beautiful flowering. But what to do if problems arise with flowering.
Flowers wither and fall.
- Reasons: lack of lighting, too hot, dry air, draft, low air temperature, temperature drops.
Dark spots and dots on flowers.
- Causes: rotting, poor ventilation, dampness at low air temperatures.
Lack of flowering.
- Reasons: the temperature regime is violated.
Diseases and pests of leaves and peduncles
Green bloom
Reasons: colonies of microscopic algae settled, constant high humidity. Most often, the disease appears in greenhouses, winter gardens, greenhouses.
Wrestling. Removing plaque from leaves with a piece soft tissue(gauze), moistened with ox, at home - with laundry soap or a weak solution of potassium permanganate and subsequent bathing.
Cracks, most often along the median vein.
Causes: mechanical damage as a result of transportation or movement.
The base of the leaf (most often the apical) turns yellow, the leaf withers, disappears.
Causes: Fusarium disease or otherwise fusarium wilting, appears with excessive waterlogging, watering with relatively low temperatures content.
Remedy: Remove the affected leaf or peduncle to a healthy spot. Pruning is done with a sterile instrument. Cut watering, treat the cut site with Fundazol.
Dark depressed spots (black, brown)
Causes: bacterial rot.
Elimination. Trim the leaves to healthy tissue, each cut with a sterilized blade. Treat the sections with one of the fungicides (Maxim, Fundazol, Topaz).
Brown spots with a yellowish or whitish rim
Causes: bacterial spotting.
Treatment. The orchid must be isolated from the rest, cut off the affected tissues or leaves entirely, treat the cuts with antibacterial drugs (sulfur powder, activated carbon, wood ash, potassium permanganate - solution). Watering is moderate.
Dark streaks on the leaves, quickly merge into stripes.
Reasons: virus.
Elimination: immediate isolation and destruction of the plant. Viruses multiply very quickly and can infect all orchids.
White spots.
Reason: - sunburn.
Elimination: in early spring and in summer shade plants, do not spray in direct sunlight, water droplets become small lenses.
Withering leaves.
Reasons: rotting of the root system.
Elimination. Remove the orchid carefully from the pot and examine the roots. Remove soft and blackened sections and treat sections with antifungal drugs.
Uneven color, sheet deformation.
Reasons: lack of mineral nutrition.
Remedy: regular feeding with complex fertilizers for orchids.
Orchid root system diseases, treatment
Reasons: breakage, mechanical damage.
Remedy: trim slightly above the fracture, sprinkle with activated carbon powder. If the roots do not have visible damage, but dry out, it is likely that there is insufficient watering and low air humidity. Watering and humidifying the air with a humidifier will help.
Drying of roots in the substrate
Reasons: insufficient watering.
Elimination. Place the pot for 30 minutes in a container with warm water, take out, let drain. Healthy roots are clearly visible in a transparent pot, they are saturated with moisture and have a greenish tint.
Decay of roots
Reasons: over-watering. At first, the roots are covered with spots, then they become shriveled, soft, brown in color.
Elimination: removal of damaged roots, disinfection of sections with solutions of fungicides diluted by a third with water (relative to the norm), transplantation into a fresh substrate. Weak watering, complete drying of the substrate between waterings.
Orchid pests - description and fight
Aphids and thrips
Description. Very small leaf-sucking insects. Aphids settle in colonies, according to outward appearance resembles small droplets. The color is greenish, yellowish or black. Adult Thrips are very small flies, have wings, an elongated body, black or yellow, larvae are whitish or transparent.
Insects infect young tender parts of orchids: buds, flowers, growing shoots.
When aphids and thrips are infected, the flowers fall off, silvery stripes and spots are visible on the leaves, and the surface becomes bumpy due to dead cells.
Wrestling. Removal of severely affected parts of orchids, spraying with insecticide Aktara, washing with laundry soap.
Repeat the processing procedure 2 more times with an interval of 5 days in order to destroy the larvae hatched from the eggs.
Mealybug
Description. Small insects that resemble pieces of cotton wool. It feeds on leaf juice. Usually introduced with new plants. On defeat mealybug the leaves turn yellow, ovate.
Wrestling. Mechanical removal with a cotton swab dipped in vodka or alcohol. Subsequent treatment with Aktara 2 times with an interval of 10 days.
Snails and slugs
Description. Orchids kept in greenhouses, greenhouses and conservatories are susceptible to attack. The appearance on the windowsill is also possible. the source of infection is a poor-quality substrate.
Molluscs hide in the substrate where they eat the roots. Crawling out, they gnaw on leaves, young shoots and flowers. Signs of a clear presence of snails are bitten edges of leaves and round holes in the ground.
Control measures. Collection and destruction.
Shields and false shields.
Description. Pests are similar to small, hard growths on stems and leaves. Easy to remove. The color is brown or black. They leave sticky marks after their stay.
Control measures. Mechanical removal with a cotton swab dipped in vodka or alcohol. Then wipe the plant with a soapy pad, let it sit for 30 minutes, and rinse abundantly. Treatment with Aktara will not hurt - 2 times with an interval of 7 days.
Preventive measures - increase humidity.
Description. A very small, reddish insect poorly visible to the naked eye. Moves slowly. Attacks orchids when low humidity... It is found in the presence of thin cobwebs on the plant. The leaves become covered with a silvery coating and die.
Wrestling. Rinsing with warm water, treatment with acaricides, for example, Aktelik.
Prevention. Quarantine of new plants, elimination of drafts by the wind, spraying with warm water.