In greenhouse conditions, it is possible to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes Many of us prefer to grow vegetables on our own in our summer cottages or household plots, which allows you to be sure that in the end only the freshest and most natural products will end up on the table, without terrible GMOs and other additives. Greenhouse planting of tomato bushes is well suited for growing tomatoes on an industrial scale. But what if the tomatoes in the greenhouse do not grow well or practically do not produce tomatoes? The first step is to determine why this is happening, and only then develop a plan to save your landings.
- Reasons: when tomatoes do not grow in a greenhouse
- Why are there few tomatoes in the greenhouse
- Reasons: why tomatoes do not ripen in a greenhouse
- How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes in the greenhouse
- Agronomist's answer: how to speed up the ripening of a tomato in a greenhouse (video)
Reasons: when tomatoes do not grow in a greenhouse
Almost every gardener wondered: “why don’t tomatoes grow in a greenhouse?” There can be completely different answers to this question, and each of them has the right to be. Consider what causes can have an inhibitory effect on the growth of tomato bushes of different varieties.
Causes:
- Poor seedlings. Remember, if you do not grow young plants yourself, but prefer to buy them from others, there is always a chance of running into a "pig in a poke". Seedlings may be sick.
- Violation of the temperature regime inside the greenhouse. As you know, each tomato variety prefers its own temperature indicators, and if your tomato bushes should develop at a temperature of +20 ᵒС, then do not expect them to good growth if the temperature is lower or higher than required.
- Damage to the bush during the tying of branches or when picking a plant.
- An insufficient amount needed by the plant nutrients and minerals. Such a deficiency very quickly affects the development of the plant, the color and appearance of the leaves.
In order for tomatoes to grow well, they need to be watered without breaking the regime.
Violation of the irrigation regime - tomato varieties, apart from single species, are greatly influenced by both the lack of irrigation and the excess of water in the soil. With an overabundance, the plant may begin to rot, and with a lack, the bush will significantly slow down its development or may shrivel.
Insufficient ventilation of the greenhouse is detrimental.
Like all plants, tomatoes also need oxygen, and its lack has a bad effect on the development of bushes, in addition, the lack of ventilation in a closed greenhouse can lead to an increase in humidity, which is also detrimental to a tomato. Tomatoes are susceptible to various diseases and various pests and insects, among which there are those that completely destroy the bush without the possibility of saving it.
Why are there few tomatoes in the greenhouse
Such a misfortune can also happen, the tomato bushes themselves developed and grew quite actively, but at the same time very few ovaries and berries form on them. This misfortune also has its reasons and they are not few. You should know the "enemy" in person in order to give a worthy rebuff.
So, what leads to problems with the formation of the ovary and fruits:
- Violation of the temperature regime;
- Violations of the regime of watering plants;
- lack of ventilation;
- Excess nitrogen - this leads to a mutation of flowers and the impossibility of forming an ovary;
- The lack of potassium and phosphorus does not allow the whole plant to develop in general and flowers in particular;
- Diseases;
- The absence of pruning or pinching in determinant plants - in this case, the forces of the bush are spent on growth, and not on the formation of the ovary and the ripening of the fetus;
- Chemical treatments also affect pollen negatively, making plant pollination impossible.
Violation of the temperature regime and lack of ventilation can lead to problems with the formation of ovaries and fruits.
As known, the best condition for pollination of plants is a temperature equal to 21-26 ᵒС. At temperatures below 16 ᵒС, plant pollen does not ripen, which means pollination will not occur, and at temperatures above 36 ᵒС, pollen becomes completely sterile.
The lack of moisture in the soil can lead to drying and falling of flowers, and without them, the formation of the ovary will not occur.
At the same time, with an excess of humidity in the air, the pollen begins to stick together and form large clumps that cannot be distributed throughout the greenhouse plants. Pollination problems are also observed in tightly closed greenhouses, due to the fact that in the greenhouses of those insects that usually help pollinate the flowers of open ground plants, as well as in enclosed spaces, there is no wind that carries pollen from plant to plant. Diseased tomato bushes themselves drop flowers to the ground. Knowing what exactly you are doing wrong, you can try to correct the mistakes, and have time to get a good harvest.
Reasons: why tomatoes do not ripen in a greenhouse
Often you may encounter the fact that the tomato fruits that have started do not want to ripen in any way, remaining green for a long time. As it turned out, tomatoes do not ripen well for the same reasons that the tomato bushes themselves do not grow and bear fruit well.
Namely:
- Temperature.
- Planting density.
- Watering.
In order for the fruits of tomatoes to ripen quickly and efficiently, a sufficient amount of a substance such as lycopene is needed. It is he who determines the saturation of the red color of ripe tomatoes. As you know, the substance is well synthesized at temperatures from 16 to 34 ᵒС, therefore, with indicators below or above the permissible norm, there is a violation of the synthesis and color of the fruit.
Tomatoes may not ripen well due to planting density.
As a result, tomatoes acquire yellow, in addition, the appearance of greening around the peduncle of the fetus is noted.
If tomato bushes are planted close, then the sun's rays do not reach the fruit. In case of lack of sunlight, tomatoes ripen much more slowly. But do not forget that an overabundance of direct sunlight will not lead to anything good either. In this case, the tomatoes can sinter and dry before they have time to ripen.
How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes in the greenhouse
If there is a problem, then it needs to be solved, which means that if the tomatoes do not ripen well in greenhouse conditions, this process can be accelerated. But what needs to be done for this? In order for ripening to take place faster, you can use some secrets.
To speed up the ripening of tomatoes in a greenhouse, plants need to be fed
Pasynkovanie - this procedure is the process of removing excess leaves from the plant. Such a procedure will allow the plant to give all the nutrients to the ripening of the fetus, and not to the growth of the bush itself. Prevention of tomato diseases, for example, late blight - diseases take away all the strength from the plant, and diseases can also affect the fruits themselves, not only preventing them from ripening, but also destroying the tomato itself.
Feeding the plant with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers is important. Ripening fruits indoors is one of the favorite ways experienced gardeners and he is justified. It consists in the fact that the fruits of tomatoes are torn off in a green form and left in a warm room for the purpose of ripening.
Agronomist's answer: how to speed up the ripening of a tomato in a greenhouse (video)
In conclusion, it is worth remembering that often green tomatoes add a couple of red fruits. It is believed that in this case, maturation will be faster.
Tomatoes are often deficient in nutrients, light and moisture. Under adverse conditions environment their growth slows down. Is it possible to stimulate the growth of tomatoes so that they continue to grow and bear fruit?
Growing tomatoes is always fraught with certain difficulties, since this culture is rather whimsical and requires constant attention. The first problems are usually associated with the fact that the tomatoes begin to lag behind in growth. If you notice signs of a slowdown in growth, then it's time to move on to measures that will help restore strength to weakened plants and give you the desired harvest.
Tomatoes need top dressings that contain iron, manganese, copper, boron, zinc, molybdenum, iodine, selenium and cobalt
Why do tomatoes grow poorly
Tomato growth retardation is usually associated with nitrogen deficiency. In the event of a shortage of this main nutrient, the growth of apical and lateral shoots stops, and young leaves begin to turn yellow. If there are not enough sulfur compounds, then the stem becomes thinner and hardens, remaining dwarfed.
For tomatoes grown in a greenhouse, it is important to maintain the required temperature and humidity, as well as the feeding regimen. The slowdown in the growth of tomatoes in the greenhouse occurs due to the following reasons:
- too high or, on the contrary, too low air temperature in the greenhouse;
- increased or insufficient air humidity;
- high or low soil moisture;
- unbalanced composition of fertilizers.
Eliminating the first three causes is fairly easy. In particular, during the pollination period, the air temperature in the greenhouse should be in the range of 24-28°C. In cloudy weather, it should not exceed 20-22°C. At night, the air temperature should not fall below 18°C. Accordingly, at an air temperature of about 32°C, pollen loses its qualities, and at an air temperature below 15°C, pollination stops altogether.
Intensive nutrition should be provided to the plant in the middle of summer, during the period of fruit formation.
The optimal level of air humidity, which allows the formation of an ovary, is 65%. However, the greenhouse should be ventilated regularly. Soil moisture should be in the range of 70-75%, so it is necessary to provide plants with regular watering with settled water at a temperature of 24-26 ° C.
The situation is more complicated with top dressing, although they are often the main reasons for slowing down the growth of tomatoes.
How to feed tomato seedlings for good growth
Start feeding tomatoes should be on the most early stages, even before sowing seeds for seedlings. Among the "home" remedies you can use aloe juice. It is a natural growth stimulant that is easy to obtain at home. Cut off the large bottom leaves of aloe, put them in the refrigerator for 12 hours, and then squeeze the juice. Put the seeds for a day in aloe juice and then leave to germinate in a humid environment without washing off the juice.
First feeding of seedlings should be carried out after the appearance of the first true leaf. As the sprout develops, it switches to nutrition with the help of its own root system, since the supply of nutrients from the seed has already been exhausted. At this time, nitrogen and phosphorus are required for the successful growth of tomatoes. Therefore, the following preparations are used: Uniflor-growth, Mortar, Kemira-Lux. These drugs are used in the form of solutions, adding 1 tsp to 5 liters of water. composition.
At home, you can prepare a light pink solution of potassium permanganate and spill the ground for seedlings on it. This procedure will disinfect the soil and protect plants from many diseases.
By the time of picking, the tomato sprouts are already quite tall, they root system actively develops, and second, "real" leaves appear on the sprouts. After the pick plants should be fed with Uniflor-buton solution. To do this, dilute 1 tsp in 2 liters of water. drug.
Among vegetable growers, one of the most popular remedies is Zircon. Thanks to its action, the germination of seeds increases, and the flowering of future bushes is also accelerated. On average, the growth and development of tomatoes accelerates by 5-10 days. 1 ml of Zircon contains 40 drops, 0.1 ml, respectively, 4 drops. Spraying of plants during the growing season is carried out using a working solution - 1 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water or 0.1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water. The finished solution should be stored in a dark place for no more than a day.
The main thing to remember when preparing nutrient solutions is that tomatoes should not be overfed and fertilized thoughtlessly.
How to feed tomato seedlings to be plump
Two weeks after a successful pick, you should take care of the future bountiful harvest. To do this, at home, no more than three top dressings should be organized with an interval of 14 days according to one of the following recipes:
- in 10 liters of water dissolve 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea and 15 g of potassium chloride;
- in 2 liters of warm water, add 1 tbsp. ash without a slide and let it brew for 24 hours. Strain the solution before use so that the pieces of ash do not fall on the plants;
- 2/3 fill 3 liter container eggshell and fill with water. Let the mixture brew for 3 days, and then dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1:3.
How to feed tomato seedlings in the ground
Recipes for further feeding will depend on where you plant seedlings - in open ground or in a greenhouse. Consider the most effective top dressing for tomatoes planted in the ground:
- when planting seedlings, put a handful of compost or humus in the hole, a little wood ash and 1 tsp. superphosphate;
- do not throw away bread crumbs throughout the year and dry them in the oven. Soak dried leftovers in warm water and leave overnight. While loosening the earth, add the resulting slurry under the roots. This enhances root formation, increases the endurance and productivity of tomatoes;
- for quick fruit ripening, use a tincture of the following ingredients: dilute 1 tbsp. superphosphate in a glass of water and let it brew for 48 hours. After that, dilute the infusion with 10 liters of water and mix. After spraying, the tomato leaves will darken slightly, photosynthesis processes will go more actively, and the fruits will ripen earlier than usual;
- dissolve 10 drops of iodine in 1 liter of milk or whey, dilute the composition in 9 liters of water and mix. Water the tomatoes at the rate of 2 liters of the composition for each bush;
- take 1 tsp. boric acid, blue vitriol, potassium magnesia and add a little potassium permanganate to them (on the tip of a knife). Then grate a piece laundry soap and dissolve everything in 10 liters of water. Spray bushes evenly 1-2 times per season;
- prepare 0.5 l of infusion of chicken manure, 1 tbsp. potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. superphosphate. Then dilute the contents in 10 liters of water. First, it is better to dissolve the superphosphate and let it brew for 24 hours, and then add the rest of the ingredients. Under each bush, add at least 1 liter of such a solution;
- every two weeks, feed the tomatoes with ash infusion. Pour 1 cup of ash into 10 liters of water and let it brew for 2-3 hours. Apply 1.5-2 liters of funds under each bush.
If flowers began to crumble in hot weather, it is recommended to spray with a solution of boric acid at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water
How to feed tomato seedlings in a greenhouse
Top dressing of tomatoes in a greenhouse is somewhat different from fertilizing in open ground. Usually 2-3 feedings are enough per season, but if you notice that the tomatoes are not growing well, additional stimulation can be done every 10-12 days.
For example, one of the following compositions:
- carry out the first top dressing 2 weeks after plant transplantation. 1 tbsp dilute urea in 10 liters of water. Bring 1-2 liters of composition under each young bush - it will help them grow green mass. Also spread a few peas under each bush. In this case, during each watering, nitrogen will gradually be absorbed by the soil and flow to the roots;
- as organic means, slurry or dry manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 is best suited. You can also use chicken manure at the rate of 200-250 g per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is infused for a day, and then the tomatoes are watered under the root at the rate of 2-3 liters per plant;
- beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants in the greenhouse foliar top dressing trace elements. You can also cook them on your own. You will need 4 g of manganese sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate, the same amount of boric acid and zinc sulfate. All substances are diluted in 10 liters of water and the plants are sprayed in the evening or in cloudy weather to avoid burning the leaves. It is necessary to carry out top dressing no more than 1 time per month;
- take 1 tbsp. mineral fertilizer Humat and mix with 10 liters of water. Add 1 tbsp. complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium, copper, manganese and molybdenum. Under each bush, add about 0.5 liters of solution;
- during the blooming of the third and fourth flower brush, feed the tomatoes with potassium humate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). For 1 sq.m. greenhouses should be made up to 5 liters of the composition;
- the last top dressing can be done when green tomatoes have already appeared on the bushes. It allows you to speed up the process of ripening fruits. To prepare it, dilute 1 tbsp. superphosphate in 1 liter of water. Infuse the resulting mixture for a day, then mix with 9 liters of water.
From mid-July, all top dressing, as well as abundant watering of tomatoes, must be stopped.
"Miracle" fertilizer for tomatoes from yeast
Yeast fertilizer is considered the leader among fertilizers and various top dressings applied to tomato beds. The basis of the biomaterial are fungi rich in proteins, organic iron, amino acids and microelements. Yeast actively contributes to:
- plant growth and green mass growth;
- increasing plant immunity, since they contain a small number of their own bacteria, against which tomatoes develop immunity;
- increase the endurance of seedlings, especially in shady places;
- formation of the root system.
Yeast rebuilds the structure of the soil and activates the activity of microorganisms living in it. Which, in turn, release nitrogen and potassium into the soil.
It is necessary to apply yeast top dressing no earlier than a week after planting tomato seedlings in the ground. Repeat top dressing before flowering.
How to prepare yeast dressing for tomatoes? Very simple. Purchase baker's yeast (100 g) in the store and fill it with 10 liters of water. To speed up the fermentation process, you can add 2 tbsp. Sahara. Leave the composition to ferment for a day. Then mix it with 50 liters of water. After that, you can water the tomatoes.
There is also a more "advanced" version of this recipe:
- water - 10 l;
- extract from chicken manure - 0.5 l;
- wood ash - 0.5 l;
- sugar - 5 tablespoons;
- dry yeast - 10 g.
Mix all ingredients. Let the composition brew for a day and dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10.
For watering, use a watering can with a strainer and apply about 0.5 liters of top dressing under young plants. Closer to the beginning of flowering, 1.5-2 liters of liquid can be added. In this case, the soil should be slightly moist.
Choose baker's yeast over brewer's yeast for sourdough
Tomatoes that are not growing well need your extra help. Give them a little more of your attention and care, and bountiful harvest will not keep you waiting.
Experienced gardeners prefer to grow tomato seedlings on their own rather than buy them. Yes, and many novice hostesses try to do this. But not everyone is good planting material. Seedlings become weak, stop growing. You have to go to the market for healthy and strong specimens.
Why are tomato seedlings not growing? There are many reasons for this phenomenon: from malnutrition and lighting to the invasion of pests and disease. But there is no need to panic. Often seedlings can be saved. It is enough to determine in time why tomatoes do not grow, and take appropriate measures to save them. Let's see where the root is sudden stop growth.
Lack of nutrients
If the seedlings do not develop, then most likely it lacks nutrients. How to recognize the deficiency of a particular substance and eliminate the consequences?
With nitrogen deficiency stunted tomato seedlings; the stem is thinning; the leaves are shrinking and turning pale.
With a lack of phosphorus the underside of the leaves turns red-purple.
Potassium deficiency manifested by marginal yellowing of the leaves, their twisting.
In the absence of magnesium in the substrate, the leaves become "marbled".
Growth stops with iron deficiency. The leaves lose color saturation, turn yellow.
Treatment- application of fertilizers with the appropriate composition. Why do tomatoes turn yellow? Blame chlorosis, which develops due to a lack of iron. It is urgent to remove the seedlings from the light, apply iron-containing fertilizers on the sheet.
Unsuccessful pick
Tomato seedlings stop growing after picking because
The plant was carried carelessly and the roots were badly damaged.
Before picking, the ground must be thoroughly watered. When the water is absorbed, each tomato is dug up with a small spatula or finger and transferred to a new place along with a clod of earth. The root system with such a pick is practically not affected.
The roots of the tomatoes are bent.
The root system of tomatoes is long. Therefore, when picking, you need to make a deep hole so that the roots fit freely in it.
The roots are poorly crimped, which is why air cavities have formed around them.
When seedlings are transferred with an earthen clod, this problem rarely occurs. To prevent the formation of air cavities, the soil around the plants is carefully and layer by layer rammed.
Wrong care
Errors in care can explain why tomatoes wither, shrink and do not grow.
1. The seedlings were flooded, so the roots lost oxygen and suffocated.
It is urgent to clean the drainage holes at the bottom of the box, try to loosen the top layer of the earth with a thin wooden stick (if the seedlings are still very small and sit close to each other, it is better not to do this). In the absence of drainage in the container, healthy specimens are transplanted.
2. The substrate did not fit the tomatoes.
We water it correctly, we feed it on time, the place is chosen well, but the seedlings still do not grow. She probably doesn't like the soil. In this case, you will have to change the soil.
The seedlings got sick
Most often, the growth of tomatoes is stopped by the following diseases:
It develops during overflow, low ambient and substrate temperatures. Sick seedlings can no longer be saved. Needs to be transplanted quickly healthy seedlings into new ground. Before transplanting, treat the roots with potassium permanganate.
Blackleg.
A fungal disease that affects weak seedlings. The development of the black leg is facilitated by waterlogging of the soil, dense planting, lack of lighting, and heat. When diseased, the base of the stalk turns black, softens and becomes thinner. The seedling is dying.
You can save the plant only at the very beginning of the disease - pour potassium permanganate, dive more rarely, loosen the soil.
It is best to prevent seedling diseases.
1) Before sowing, calcinate the soil mixture and spill it with a solution of potassium permanganate.
2) Douse boxes with boiling water or soak in potassium permanganate.
3) Disinfect and dry the seeds.
4) Plant tomatoes not densely so that they grow freely without oppressing each other.
5) Water the seedlings abundantly, but rarely. The substrate inside should remain moist, and the surface layer should have time to dry out.
6) To prevent rotting of the root neck, you can add a little sand to the seedling box.
7) Place seedlings on well-lit window sills, ventilate the room more often.
Many people prefer to grow tomatoes in their gardens. After all, this vegetable has not only high palatability, but also very useful for the body as a whole. Experienced gardeners grow tomatoes with such ease that they do not understand what problems can arise with this vegetable. However, inexperienced summer residents sometimes have difficulties. They can occur even at the first stage of vegetable growth, and these problems lie in the fact that tomato seedlings do not grow. In this article, we will explain why this happens, what measures can be taken, and whether seedlings can be saved.
Tomatoes are quite whimsical plants and require constant care.
Tomatoes and their beneficial properties
homeland of the tomato South America. Interestingly, wild forms of this plant can still be found there. The tomato came to our country only in the 18th century.
It is difficult to imagine a more useful vegetable than a tomato. It is rich in vitamins and minerals such as vitamin C and B, starch, folic acid, nicotinic acid, iron, iodine, magnesium, calcium and many others. But the most important of these is lycopene. Thanks to this substance, tomatoes have a red color, and for humans it is important because lycopene is an antioxidant, and it is also able to fight cancer cells.
Interestingly, tomatoes are used in medicinal purposes. For example, if you have problems with constipation, it is recommended to drink tomato juice after every meal. Continue this treatment for two weeks. And also people with atherosclerosis are recommended to use tomatoes in any form and as much as possible. Medicinal properties tomatoes increase when combined with fats. So if you like tomato salad dressed sunflower oil, then this is only at your fingertips.
Tomato salad is a light and tasty summer dish that is easy to prepare even for a novice cook.
And tomatoes are used in cosmetology. If you make a mask tomato juice, and apply it on your face, after 15 minutes your skin will become more elastic. And with regular use of a mask of tomatoes and cottage cheese, you can get rid of wrinkles.
How to grow tomatoes
If you live in the northern regions of the country, where the summer is short, then it is best for you to grow tomatoes through seedlings. And in the event that you expect to see the harvest as early as possible, it is also recommended to use seedlings.
Naturally, you can purchase seedlings immediately before planting them in open ground, but if you grow seedlings yourself, you will be sure of the quality of planting material. In addition, when buying ready-made seedlings, you can not always be sure which tomatoes you will end up with. And when growing it at home, you can avoid these problems.
Before you start planting seeds, they need to be sorted out and disinfected. Choose the largest and healthiest seeds. Such seeds must be of the same size and have Brown color. Then proceed to the disinfection process. You can choose a well-known and proven method. For this, tomato seeds are placed in light mortar potassium permanganate for half an hour. You can also choose a different method of disinfection. To do this, tomato seeds are placed in aloe juice diluted 50% with water. Keep the seeds in this solution for a day. After this method, tomatoes grown from these seeds will be stronger and have strong immunity.
Proper planting of tomato seeds in the soil implies their thorough preparation.
Now start planting seeds in the ground. Tomato seedlings grow for about 50-60 days. From this data, you should calculate the time of their landing.
In order to plant seedlings, you will need to take:
- pots or boxes;
- fertile soil;
- seeds.
Buy land for planting seeds in the store. Pour it into pots or a pre-prepared box and water abundantly. warm water, make a small depression in the ground (no more than a centimeter). If you use a box, then keep a distance of three centimeters between plants. Also, if you plant different types tomatoes, do not plant them in the same container. Put two seeds in each recess and sprinkle with a small layer of earth. Do not water at this stage. And then use a spray bottle for watering. Use it until the seedlings get stronger.
After planting the seeds, move the pots to the windowsill, closer to the light. Also illuminate the seedlings with a lamp from time to time. In the room where your tomatoes grow, the air temperature should be 24 degrees above zero, keep an eye on this. Ready seedlings for 50-60 days are planted in open ground, where they continue to take care of them, watering and periodically feeding.
Why seedlings do not grow
Sometimes it happens that the tomato seedlings that you planted grow poorly or do not grow at all. Why is this happening and what to do in such a situation?
The first time after planting, seedlings need special care and regular watering.
There are several reasons why seedlings grow poorly:
- Bad seeds. Your planting material was obviously bad. The seeds might just be out of date. It is not recommended to plant seeds that are more than 5-6 years old. And also you could not sort out the seeds, and then they could not be disinfected.
- Unsuitable soil. For planting seedlings, you took bad land. If you are not sure about the quality of the land, then it would be best to purchase it in a specialized store. Also, poor soil can be a source of diseases and pests.
- Lack of light and heat. Another problem is why tomato seedlings do not grow. Tomatoes are very heat-loving and sun-loving plants, respectively, the lack of one of these factors can lead to poor growth plants. Keep the temperature in the room around 24 degrees and periodically turn on the tomato lamp.
- Excess or lack of moisture. Proper watering- recipe for success. The soil near the seedlings should not be allowed to dry out, but swamps should not be arranged either, otherwise the seedlings will not grow well. This is an important condition for why this culture does not grow.
- Lack of nutrients. Seedlings will not stop growing because of this, but may slow down in growth. Therefore, it is periodically recommended to feed the plant with fertilizers.
- Cat. No matter how ridiculous it may sound, but through the fault of this animal, the seedlings may die. To do this, the cat only has to urinate into the ground with the plant. If there is a cat in your house, then in no case do not allow it to seedlings.
Follow all the rules for planting tomatoes, and you will succeed.
Jennyfer over a year ago What color is she? -over a year ago comment over a year ago
Usually seedlings can grow poorly due to bad seeds, maybe even expired. More an important factor is the earth. I always plant in ready-made soil mix, which is sold at the tomato store.
Of course, taking land from the forest would be even better, but this is if there is such an opportunity. The third reason is the presence of sufficient light. It also has a very strong effect. Well, of course, watering should not be overdone, but not dried either. The temperature regime is also important, but I doubt that it is so cold in your apartment that tomatoes do not grow, most likely that of the previous reasons affects.
When evaluating the condition of tomato seedlings, several factors must be taken into account:
- Lighting - tomatoes love sunlight, you can not deprive them of this main source of growth. Moisturizing - watering should be moderate, but regular. Temperature - unnecessary low temperatures inhibit the growth of seedlings, optimally 20-23 degrees. Soil nutrition - if the seedlings withered and turned bluish - there is not enough phosphorus, if the stem turns yellow and thins - it's time to feed with nitrogen.
commentEsther 4 months ago
If tomato seedlings do not grow, then perhaps they do not have enough light, heat or watering. It may also be thickened and lacking nutrients. It is necessary to plant seedlings so that they have a lot of land, it is good to regularly water and light up at night.
You can also water the seedlings with superphosphate.
comment over a year ago
The reason may be malnutrition. If the stems and leaves of the seedlings are stunted, thin stem, small pale leaves, then there is not enough nitrogen in the soil. grow, the leaves turn yellow and discolor.
If an incorrect pick was carried out, then due to damage to the roots, the seedlings stop growing. There may not be enough oxygen and the soil does not fit. warm temperature. Then the roots should be washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and transplanted into fresh soil. And the seedlings also begin to develop poorly if pests are wound up on it - wood lice, spider mite, earwigs. Then urgently the seedlings must be treated with fitoverm
comment
Tomato seedlings do not grow, what to do
Even experienced gardeners very often face such a problem that tomato seedlings abruptly stop growing. If this happens, then there is no need to panic. It is necessary to find out as soon as possible what is the reason for such a sudden stop in growth, and there may be several of them:
- Malnutrition,
Having figured out why tomato seedlings do not grow, you can begin to eliminate it. Lack of seedling nutrition. How to eliminate the consequences?
If the plant does not grow and develop well, most likely it does not have enough nutrition. Symptoms of a deficiency of one or another element may be as follows: With a lack of nitrogen, plants look stunted with a thin stem, small pale leaves.
The appearance of a red-violet hue on the underside of the leaves indicates a deficiency of phosphorus. The lower leaves turned yellow at the edges and curled up, which means that there is not enough potassium. The absence of such an element as magnesium is manifested by marbling of the leaves.
In these cases, the treatment of seedlings consists in carrying out the necessary feeding. With a lack of iron, tomato seedlings do not grow, because they develop chlorosis. Leaves of plants become discolored and turn yellow.
In the presence of such symptoms, immediately stop highlighting the seedlings. In advanced cases, feed and spray with iron-containing preparations. Wrong pick Another of the most common reasons for stopping the growth of seedlings is incorrect picking, namely:
- The roots are bent. The roots are too severely torn off or damaged. When planting, the roots were poorly compressed, which created air pockets next to them,
Mistakes in care Seedling growth may stop for the following reasons:
- The flooded seedlings suffocated from a lack of oxygen. The soil is not suitable.
In the first case, it is necessary to clean the drainage hole, and in its absence, transplant the remaining plants. In the second - as soon as possible to change the soil. Seedling diseases Often, tomato seedlings do not grow due to diseases. The most common diseases that inhibit its growth are:
- Root and root rot, which leads to overflow of seedlings at low air or soil temperatures. Urgently save the remaining seedlings by transplanting into fresh soil. Pre-wash the roots in a solution of phytosporin or magrantsovka. The black leg is a common infectious disease that develops very quickly under adverse conditions.
Symptoms: darkening of the root collar, its softening and death of the plant. Control measures: the affected seedlings are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then it is spudded and placed more rarely. The room must be systematically ventilated.
However, plants can be saved only at the very first stage of the disease, so inspect the seedlings every day.
Tomato seedlings do not grow - we take action
When growing such a wonderful crop as tomatoes, gardeners face a number of difficulties, the most common problem is that tomato seedlings do not grow. Tomato seedlings require compliance with certain conditions, for example, compliance with a special temperature regime. Immediately after the appearance of the first shoots for a week, the boxes with seedlings are cleaned in a cool place, during the day the temperature should be 16-18g.
C, at night - 13-15gr. C. Then the temperature can be raised to 20g. Happy day and 16gr. Happy night. Specified temperature regime observe until the third true leaf appears in the tomato (approximately 30-35 days).
During this time, the seedlings are watered 3 times under the root, the third time the watering is carried out on the day of the picking an hour before it starts. The recommended water temperature for irrigation should be 20g.
C. After the appearance of two true leaves, the seedlings should be sprayed daily (in the morning) with low-fat milk (1 glass per liter of water), this procedure is the prevention of viral diseases. Watering is carried out moderately as the soil dries up. If, under the indicated conditions, the tomato seedlings do not grow or grow slowly, then the tomatoes can be fed with a growth stimulator, for example, sodium humate.
The solution is diluted to a consistency resembling tea in color and the tomatoes are fed 1 glass per plant. Two weeks before planting, the tomatoes must be hardened by putting them on the balcony or under the open window. First for 2-3 hours then for the whole day. The hardening temperature should not fall below 8-10 gr. WITH.
Seedlings do not start growing for a long time after picking If the tomato seedlings stopped growing after picking, then the reason must be sought in the quality of the work performed:
- The roots of the seedlings are severely torn off, damaged or bent. Air cavities have formed next to the poorly compressed roots.
What to do if tomato seedlings do not grow
For good growth, tomato seedlings need to create certain conditions. The temperature regime immediately after germination during the day should be 16-18°C, at night - 13-15°C. The temperature then rises to 20°C during the day and 16°C at night.
The specified mode is maintained until the appearance of the third true leaflet. During this time, you need to make three waterings, the last of them - the day before the pick.
The water temperature should be 20 ° C. To prevent viral diseases, seedlings are sprayed with low-fat milk (a glass of milk per liter of water). This procedure is carried out every morning after the appearance of two true leaves.
Two weeks after the picking, the seedlings must be fed with nitrophoska. All this time, moderate watering is carried out as the soil dries up. In cases where, subject to all the above conditions, tomato seedlings still do not grow or grow very slowly, they are fed with a growth stimulator, for example, sodium humate.
The solution prepared for irrigation should have a shade of tea or beer. Water should be 1 glass per plant.
The following articles:
- For growing in greenhouses the best option are indeterminate varieties of tomatoes, that is, characterized by constant growth. Indeterminate sor…
Growing tomato seedlings at home
Hello, dear friends! I am writing this article in late autumn, because I think that it is already possible to prepare for such a painstaking but noble cause as growing tomato seedlings at home. Seedlings, of course, are preferable to purchase at companies where there is protected ground, but most amateurs and gardening professionals prefer to grow their seedlings at home. An important step is the selection of seeds good varieties and hybrids. In order to receive stable and high yields tomato, it is advisable to experiment first, growing several years in a row various varieties, and then from the varieties tested and liked by you, choose 3-4 varieties for both open and protected ground. Warning! DO NOT USE YOUR OWN SEEDS FOR GROWING!!! Before sowing seeds for seedlings, they should be soaked in a special nutrient solution. Here you can use any of the following solutions:
- In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska. In 1 liter of water, dilute 2 grams of the Bud preparation. In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of wood ash. In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of liquid fertilizer Agricola- vegeta. In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of Effekton liquid fertilizer. In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 milliliter of Epin. In 1 liter of water, dilute 1 tablespoon organic fertilizer"Drop" (the solution must be filtered before soaking). In 1 liter of water, it is necessary to dilute 3 teaspoons of the Agricola-Forward organic fertilizer.
Seeds should be soaked in cloth bags. The temperature of the nutrient solution should not be below 20 degrees.
Soaking time - 24 hours. After that, a damp cloth bag with seeds should be placed in plastic bag and put in the refrigerator (just do not put in freezer) for 1 - 2 days. This is done to harden the seeds.
Cooled seeds should be sown immediately in the soil. At the same time, they will give friendly and fast seedlings. Warning! DO NOT TAKE LAND FROM GROUNDS WHERE VEGETABLES GROWED AND FROM FLOWERS WHERE FLOWERS GROWED.
SEEDLINGS MAY DIE!!! In order to prepare a suitable growing tomato seedlings soil mixture, you need to take 1 part of humus, soddy land and peat. Next, add 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, superphosphate and urea to a bucket of such a mixture. You can also use ready-made EXO soil mixture, special for tomato or universal. be sure to warm in the oven at 100 - 115 degrees for 20 - 25 minutes.
To do this, it is necessary to pour moist soil on a baking sheet with a layer of 4 - 5 centimeters. perennial herbs, and it is better to take humus 3-5 years old. Firstly, you need to decide when to sow seeds for seedlings. Depending on future growing conditions, the timing of sowing seeds will vary.
- To grow tomatoes in greenhouses without heating, seeds for seedlings must be sown from February 15 to March 10, depending on the precocity of a particular variety. To grow a tomato in open ground with temporary film coatings, seeds should be sown from March 1 to March 20. For growing tomatoes in open ground without shelter - from March 15 to March 25.
So, let's proceed directly to the sowing:
- A week before sowing, we take any of the above soil mixtures and mix it well. The soil mixture should not be dry, so it needs to be slightly moistened in advance. On the day of sowing, the soil should be poured into boxes or boxes, leveled and compacted a little. make grooves in the soil, about 1 centimeter deep at a distance of 5 - 6 centimeters from one another. Then you need to water the grooves warm solution growth regulator "bud", at the rate of 1 gram of the drug per 1 liter of water or any other solution intended for soaking the seeds (see above). After that, we sow the seeds at a distance of 1.5 - 2 centimeters in a row, but not more often. Then you need sprinkle the seeds with soil mixture. Watering from above is not necessary! Such a sowing is called “sowing on a school”, that is, a thickened sowing. Next, you need to put the boxes with our sown seeds in warm place, where the air temperature is relatively constant and is in the range of 22 - 25 degrees. This place should be bright. In order for shoots to appear faster, within 5-6 days, film caps must be put on the boxes.
How to care for tomato seedlings: When growing tomato seedlings in the first 20 days after germination, the leaves grow rather slowly, but in the next 15-20 days their growth becomes clearly visible. In order for our seedlings not to stretch, it is necessary good lighting, it is also important to monitor the temperature and regularly harden the seedlings. During the first 7 days after germination, it is advisable to maintain the air temperature during the day at 16 - 18 degrees, and at night - 13 - 15 degrees.
From the second week, the temperature should be raised to 18 - 20 degrees during the day and up to 15 - 16 degrees at night. This temperature regime must be observed until the second and third true leaves appear on the sprout. This usually happens 30-35 days after germination. All this time, the seedlings need to be watered and fed 3 times, which will allow us to get good, strong tomato seedlings even in the period of low light (in March). Watering: The first time you need to water emerging shoots are not plentiful.
The second time you need to water the seedlings after 1 - 2 weeks, combining this watering with the first top dressing, in the phase of one true leaf. Third and last time seedlings need to be watered 3 hours before picking and transplanting. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature and settled.
Young seedlings should be watered carefully under the root so that water does not fall on the leaves, as this can cause the latter to rot. Boxes and boxes with seedlings must be turned over every day with the other side to the light so that our seedlings do not stretch. windowsill. This will cause restriction of air access to the roots.
To avoid this, you need to use some kind of coasters. The first root dressing should be carried out at a time when our seedlings will have one true leaf. In 1 liter of water, you need to dilute 1 teaspoon of Agricola-Forward liquid fertilizer.
This top dressing strengthens the root system well and enhances the development of our seedlings. The second top dressing should be carried out when the real third leaf appears: 1 tablespoon of the Effekton preparation should be diluted in 1 liter of water. The third top dressing of seedlings should be carried out 10-12 days after its picking (see below). For this top dressing, you need to take 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska for 10 liters of water.
Feeding consumption - 1 cup per 2 pots. The fourth top dressing is done 15 days after transplanting into large pots. (See below) To do this, you need to take 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate for 10 liters of water. Solution consumption - 1 cup per 1 pot. The fifth top dressing is done 15 days after the fourth.
To do this, for 10 liters you need to take 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska. Solution consumption - 1 cup per 1 tomato plant. Conducting growing tomato seedlings, very milestone is the picking of seedlings.
Seedlings with 2 - 3 true leaves dive into small pots, approximately 8x8 - 10x10 centimeters in size. Seedlings will not stay in these pots for long, only 22 - 25 days.
To do this, fill the pots with one of the soil mixtures listed at the beginning of the article and pour it with a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 grams per 10 liters of water). The temperature of the solution should be 22 - 24 degrees.
When picking seedlings, all weak and diseased plants should also be culled. If your seedlings are slightly extended, then when picking in pots, you can deepen them a little, but not to the cotyledon leaves.
On the left in the picture is a pick of normal seedlings, and on the right is an elongated one. After you pick the seedlings, during the first three days you need to maintain a temperature of 20 - 22 degrees during the day and 16 - 18 degrees at night. As soon as the seedlings take root, the temperature during the day should be reduced to 18 - 20 degrees, and at night - to 15 - 16 degrees. You need to water the seedlings in pots once a week quite abundantly, until the soil is completely wet.
At the same time, make sure that the soil does not dry out completely between waterings. After 22 - 25 days, the seedlings need to be transplanted into large pots, approximately 12x12 - 15x15 centimeters in size. With this transplant, seedlings should not be buried.
After that, the seedlings should be watered with warm water (22 degrees), wetting the soil well. Further watering should be moderate (once a week) as the soil dries out. This inhibits growth and prevents the seedlings from stretching out. Let's now figure out why you first need to dive the seedlings into small pots, and then plant them in large ones?
- Each seedling transplant hinders its growth and the seedlings do not stretch out so much. With regular watering in small pots, tomato plants develop an excellent root system, because water does not linger in these pots, which means the roots get more air. If we spread the seedlings immediately into large pots, then watering will be difficult to regulate and water will stagnate. With excessive air moisture, there will be little for the roots, which will slow down their growth, which in general negatively affects the development of our seedlings (it stretches).
Well, that's all I wanted to tell you today about growing tomato seedlings at home.
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Periodically remove drops of moisture (condensate) from the inner surface of the film or glass. The temperature is maintained in the range of 20°C-25°C. |
The film is removed and containers with seedlings are placed in the most illuminated place with a temperature in the range: during the day - 12 ° С-15 ° С, at night - 8 ° С-10 ° С for 4-7 days. By lowering the temperature, the seedlings will take root well. To do this, you can slightly open the window, and on windows with double-glazed windows, open the frame to the "ventilation" position. |
waiting for the appearance of 1-2 true leaves |
The air temperature is further maintained within 20°C-25°C, and air humidity at 65-70%. To do this, a bucket of water is placed under the window near the heating radiator. |
picking seedlings into individual pots (cups) |
Read how to dive seedlings here. When diving seedlings into cold greenhouses or temporary film shelters, seedlings with 2-3 true leaves are used. |
10 days after picking or after the appearance of 1-2 true leaves |
Top dressing (1) seedlings with a solution mineral fertilizers combined with irrigation. |
14 days after the first feeding |
Top dressing (2) of seedlings with a solution of mineral fertilizers, combined with watering. |
7 - 10 days before landing at a permanent place |
Spraying seedlings with a 5% solution of copper sulfate. This will prevent fungal diseases. And immediately before planting, seedlings and holes in the ground are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water); - hardening of seedlings. When the outdoor temperature rises to 10 ° C during the day, the seedlings are taken out to the balcony for hardening for the day. At first, shade with paper from direct sunlight. In the future, if the weather allows, the seedlings are left on the balcony around the clock, covering for the night. |
planting seedlings in a permanent place |
60 - 75 days after germination, when the threat of last frost has passed. Hardened seedlings can be planted 10 days earlier. |
Seedlings should be with the first flower brush. Used to protect seedlings various means to fight frost. |
Further cultivation of tomatoes is a completely different story! But I remember interesting experience growing seedlings, which I read about in the journal Science and Life in the late 80s of the last century (sounds like I'm a long-lived old man). Now I can’t remember either the exact year, or the issue of the magazine, or the author of that wonderful method of growing tomato seedlings, which was described on the pages of the magazine. But I remember the main thing well, because it struck me.
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So, one amateur vegetable grower near Moscow (if someone remembers or knows this person, please write in the comments) grew tomato bushes the size of a tree. I still remember the photo in which this innovator enthusiast poses on a completely glazed (walls and ceiling) terrace next to a barrel in which a giant, sprawling (3 meters high) tomato bush grows, hung with numerous fruits. No matter how you lie, but in my opinion, he collected more than 100 kg of tomatoes from this bush. Impressive, isn't it? Anticipating possible questions, it should be said that this three-meter tomato has nothing to do with the SPRUT F1 tomato tree - an indeterminate (with unlimited growth) tomato variety that is really grown like a real tree. SPRUT F1 is grown hydroponically in heated greenhouses for 14-18 months, of which the first 7-8 months the plant is not allowed to bear fruit (stepchildren and remove all leaves and brushes on the main stem) forming a crown when it reaches a height of about 2 m. Area crowns is up to 50 square meters. After the formation of the crown, the tomato tree is not stepsoned, giving it complete freedom. From such a tree, you can collect up to 1.5 tons of fruits. Also impressive. But the problem is that the technology of growing the SPRUT F1 tomato tree is complex and requires special knowledge of hydroponics, equipment, control devices, constant monitoring of the plant nutrition process, finally a heated greenhouse, etc. Some gardeners grow SPRUT F1 in greenhouses as an experiment in the usual way(without hydroponics) and, of course, they do not achieve any special results. True, some advise the plant not to pinch or pinch at all - then, they say, the SPRUT F1 will give a good harvest. Let's return to our Moscow region innovator. This vegetable grower achieved such a result as follows. In February, I sowed the seeds of some tall late-ripening tomato variety for seedlings. With the advent of the first true leaves, I chose several of the strongest sprouts and planted the seedlings in small cups (3x3 or 4x4 cm). But, the pick was carried out in an original way - each plant was laid in the soil in a spiral. The technique is as follows: a little soil mixture is added to the bottom of the cup, a tomato, carefully dug with roots, is placed in the cup and sprinkled with earth so that the stem lies in an arc. Only true leaves and part of the stem (no more than 1 cm) are left on the surface. Then, with the growth of the 4th true leaf, the plant dives again, but already in a liter milk bag, with a side wall cut out (and disinfected inner and outer surfaces ). The bag is also half filled with earth, the tomato seedlings taken out with a clod of earth are placed sideways closer to the end of the bag and sprinkled with soil mixture, leaving only 2 top leaves. With the growth of the 6th leaf, the procedure is repeated, transplanting the plants into an even larger container. So that when transplanting a lump of earth with roots does not crumble, the tomato is not watered before picking. The plant is removed as follows: a glass (package) is taken by the bottom with the left hand, palm right hand lies on the surface of the soil, while the stem is passed between the index and ring fingers without touching them and turns upside down. Further, when 7-9 leaves grow, the plant is transplanted into a barrel or similar, a wide and fairly deep container, 3/4 filled with earth. The tomato is removed with a clod of earth, again placed sideways in a barrel and sprinkled until top leaves. As they grow, all stepchildren and lower leaves on the stem that appear from the ground are also sprinkled (rooted) until the barrel is filled to the top level. Here is the main content of this unusual way. The goal of all these laying transplants is to maximize (build up) the root system of the plant. As you know, a tomato can develop vegetatively. If you cut off a stepson from an adult plant and plant it in the ground, it will quickly take root and begin to grow intensively. Here, additional rooting of plants begins from "infancy". The more powerful the root system, the more viable and developed the plant and, accordingly, the greater the yield. And further. It seems that the grown bush did not stepchild and did not pinch, i.e. no agrotechnical methods for the formation of the bush were used at all, except for the garter of the main stem and fruit clusters. Unfortunately, I do not remember all the nuances of growing seedlings in this way. You have to try it yourself. This season I will conduct an experiment and be sure to share my experience. True, I do not have a completely glazed terrace. But you can do without it if you allocate a place in the greenhouse or build an individual structure protected by a film for such a signora-tomato, for example, bury a barrel halfway, hammer a 3-meter stake in the middle and fix the film on it. Well, or something like that. |