The summer ended, during which we created beauty, comfort and harmony in our plots, planted the plants we liked, took care of them, and from some we got the harvest. A golden autumn has come, and winter is not already sunburned. Now is the time to think about how to preserve everything that we have created so carefully so that our favorite plants will delight us next year (and not only).
Plants need to be taken care of in advance
Additional care in cold period it will take a year for plants native to the more southern regions of the Urals. Similarly, it is advisable to take care of young seedlings of completely winter-hardy plants in our country, which were planted on the site only this summer, because they are just taking root and have not matured yet.
Plants that were planted this year require special attention.
What exactly can winter harm our pets?
- First, naturally, cold and frost are dangerous when the air temperature drops below the limit that a particular plant can tolerate. Here it is necessary to clarify immediately that according to the average temperature standards, the Urals and, more specifically, the Sverdlovsk region correspond to frost resistance zones 4 and 3 (according to international classification), i.e. the air temperature in our winter can drop to -30 / -36 degrees Celsius, and the temperature on the soil can drop to -40 degrees (especially in the north of the region). Accordingly, all those plants that are unable to withstand such a drop in temperatures are at risk and may not wake up next spring. It is especially necessary to say that the damage to plants is not caused by short-term cold weather (we will conventionally call them "frost shock test"), which last from several hours to two days, namely, a long frosty period, when the cold lasts a week or more.
- Many plants find it very difficult to tolerate sharp fluctuations in temperature, when frosts are quickly replaced by thaws and vice versa.
- The onset of moderate and severe cold weather is dangerous, without the presence of snow cover or with its minimal presence.
- In addition, thaws in winter can also adversely affect plants, due to the fact that during this period water can stagnate in the holes at the roots, and the roots can begin to rot or rot out.
- For small plants or plants with delicate, thin branches, among other things, a large snow cover may turn out to be an "unbearable burden", which will simply break these branches for them.
Even plants that are accustomed to cold weather may be at risk.
Helping plants cope with frost will certainly help. shelter
Consider when and how to cover the plants.
Through many years of experience, scientists and gardeners have found that sheltering plants must be carried out when the air temperature at night drops to -5 degrees Celsius or below. This usually happens in the second half of October - November. You should not do this earlier, because the plants need to get a little hardening, get used to low temperatures.
- "Classic" shelterfor small plantsspruce or pine spruce branches... Among the main advantages of this material are the following: it prevents the direct contact of the plant with the snow (traps the snow), as well as with the ice crust; keeps warm; provides a small or moderate access of air, thus allowing for ventilation of the plant; spruce branches are not subject to decay and are not damaged by microorganisms, mold or fungi that are harmful to plants; in early spring, spruce branches will perfectly protect the plant from overheating in direct sunlight. The disadvantages of this type of shelter can be attributed to the fact that it is not always easy to prepare such material as spruce branches, especially in the required quantity. In addition, it is clear that for the sake of sheltering one plant, we have to break another (spruce or pine).
Using spruce branches - classical method hideouts
- For small plants, in addition to the above method, it is suitable foliage shelter. For shelter, it is recommended to use only dry, rustling and healthy leaves. You can collect the leaves in advance by storing them in polypropylene bags somewhere in the barn or under the roof. You can use, for example, birch leaves (as the most common tree in Russia) or oak (oak leaves most often do not rot and are not damaged by a fungal infection). The thickness of the leaf cover should be from 15 to 30 cm. In addition, it is necessary to install an additional cover from water and snow (for example, a waterproof box or film) above the foliage so that the foliage does not get wet, otherwise it will crumble, rot and even possibly rot. The disadvantage of this method of shelter can be considered only that it is not always possible to collect all healthy leaves; unfortunately, some pests and diseases that previously lived on a deciduous tree may remain in them.
Foliage shelter requires preliminary preparation of the material
- By analogy with dry leaves, the plant can also be covered with dry yellow larch needles... This method of shelter is safer from the point of view of introducing any diseases or pests to the plant, however, the needles of this tree cannot always be obtained in the required quantity.
- Straw sheltersuitable for perennial plants and small shrubs. As you know, straw retains snow well and retains heat. But, just as with the leaf cover, it is necessary that the straw does not get wet (you can cover it with a film on top). The disadvantages of this type of shelter can only be attributed to the fact that sometimes small rodents find housing and food under such a shelter. Therefore, some gardeners advise putting poison from rodents under shelters with straw so that our plants are certainly not damaged by anything or anyone.
It's time to spread the straws!
- Covering with dry shavings or sawdust is produced in much the same way as with leaves or straw, with the only consideration that given view shelter is not suitable for those plants that need soil with an alkaline pH reaction since shavings and sawdust during their subsequent decomposition and decay in spring and summer - contribute to soil acidification.
Shelter shavings
- Hilling(creating a mound of soil around the roots and stems of the plant)or mulching(bedding) humus or peatcan also be considered one of the simple and at the same time convenient ways warming plants for the winter. This method is most often used to preserve perennials. It is widely known that peat remarkably protects the root collar of plants from frost damage. Some breeders recommend mulching with peat and the grafting site near the plant (if the grafting is not done high).
- Kraft paper(high strength wrap paperfrom lightly cooked long-fibred sulphate cellulose) is another good covering material. Dense enough, it perfectly protects plants from sunburn(which is especially necessary for some young plants); protects from wind and frost. Most often, this shelter is used for conifers and evergreens. deciduous plants... The disadvantages of this type of shelter can be attributed already indicated above - kraft paper - protects against sunburn, but itdoes not let in sunlight.Therefore, unfortunately, it can be used to shelter not all plants, but only those that can really suffer greatly from sunburn (especially in February - March).
- Lutrasil, spunbond- lightweight, comfortable covering material. It can be of different density. The canvas of this material can be directly used for shelter, as well as pulled over the frame, cut into strips for winding the boles of plants. However, some agricultural specialists recommend using spunbond with caution as a winter shelter, since the structure of this material is such that, letting heat in, it does not release it back and the plants underneath during thaws in winter may suffer from overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to use spunbond 17 or 30 UV density, but no more high density.
When choosing a canvas for a shelter, check the degree of its UV
- Shelter with framesused for medium to large shrubs and trees. The frame can be made by yourself or purchased from gardening stores. A wooden or wire (made of wire mesh) frame is installed on the ground, along the perimeter of the plant, the above-mentioned covering material is stretched onto the frame.
In addition, the small free space between the frame and the plant can be filled with dry foliage.
- A not quite standard way of hiding is expanded clay shelter... As you know, expanded clay is foamed (air-saturated) fired clay in the form of almost round granules ranging in size from a few millimeters to 1 - 2 cm. Expanded clay - has the color of a brick, i.e. reddish brown. It is about 2 times lighter than water. Does not burn, does not rot and does not sink in water. In addition, expanded clay has excellent thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay can used to preserve perennials. They are sprinkled with the root collar of plants to keep from cold weather.
Having decided what needs to be done to save plants from the cold, we now turn to the opposite situation.
What needs to be done in order for plants to successfully survive?
Thaw in winter!
A thaw is not dangerous in itself, but its consequences - flooding, stagnant water, soaking, damping out and decay of roots, as well as frosts that come after a thaw.
The consequences of the thaw in winter can be dire
- So, during the thaw, it is advisable to create grooves to drain melt waterfrom the zone of the root collar and plant roots. In addition, by removing water from the trunk of the plant, you cancompact the near-barrel circle, and around the root collar of the plantpour dry sand or sand mixed with peat... These measures are especially necessary for such plants as felt cherry, a number of varieties of bird cherry, irgi, honeysuckle, gooseberry and black currant.
- If thaws are repeated often enough, and from year to year, then even in autumn it is recommended to whitewash the trunks of shrubs and trees- to protect against fungal diseases that can occur during the thaw period.
- Herbaceous perennials are also desirable in autumn (in dry weather) spray with a 3% solution copper sulfate , also to protect plants from infections and fungal diseases, manifested in the thaw.
- The thaws in February are considered the most dangerous. Warming during this period can provoke sap flow, and further cold, if it comes, will freeze liquids in the trunks and branches of trees and shrubs. This can lead to freezing of fruit and growth buds. Experienced gardeners during such a period recommend shading young seedlings of trees and shrubs whenever possible, thereby protecting them from strong sunlight.
When alternating in winter frost with thaw and again frost - another phenomenon is possible. This is the icing of the branches of plants, as well as the icing of the soil cover (if the water was not drained in a timely manner during the thaw). As you know, a layer of ice on the soil near-trunk circles- significantly impairs air exchange in plants, therefore it is always recommended to remove the ice, pouring soft snow instead of it or breaking this ice. This measure is necessary for all non-sheltered plants that are significant for aac. As for the icing of the branches, it can be avoided by covering the plants for the winter with frames and spunbond. The same shelter will help from the congestion. a large number snow on the branches of plants. This shelter is especially important for plants. with thin, fragile twigs (for example, for a number of thuja varieties).
Plants with thin branches especially suffer without shelter for the winter.
Let us mention another necessary measure of preparing plants for winter - competent fertilization during the growing season.
So, from the end of July, it is not recommended to feed trees and shrubs with fertilizers containing nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of shoots. From now on, young shoots should stop growing in length and lignification of the bark should begin in them so that they can safely survive the winter. But the plants will need potassium and phosphorus to prepare for winter (the fertilizer application rates should be read on the packages). Potash and phosphorus fertilizers - can be fed in the fall.
Removal from supports
Let us briefly dwell on the care of climbing plants, such as grapes, clematis, lemongrass, etc. After mid-October (when cold weather is established), it is recommended to remove their shoots from supports and cover with dry foliage, straw or dry peat, and on top with a film or other waterproof material.
Caring for plants in containers
And finally, let's touch on plants that are grown in decorative containers, vases, tubs, pots. They are either recommended to be brought into a slightly heated room for the winter, or (winter-hardy specimens) - to be buried on a plot level with the ground, preferably from the south, leeward side.
Even more useful
Article written based on our own experience and using information from sources : from the article: "Thaw in the garden" of the "Gardener" magazine No. 8 for 2011; from the article "Spring begins in the fall" of the "Flora" magazine No. 4, 1997; articles "Shelter of plants for the winter. Do not be lazy" from the site "Lazy Garden"; article "Shelter of plants for the winter" from the site "Eva. Nursery ornamental plants";" Shelter of plants for the winter. Techniques "from the site Country garden Nizhny Novgorod and areas; articles: "Shelter of plants for the winter. Advantages and disadvantages" from the site "Smart gardener. Internet magazine for summer residents"; the article "Shelter of Plants for the Winter" (by S. Chizhova, Candidate of Biological Sciences) from the site "Landscape Art"; article "Protection from frost, shelter of roses, ornamental plants for the winter" from the site "City".
Even hardy plants have a hard time in winter, especially in last years... The weather has become completely unpredictable, it is more and more difficult to protect your garden from its whims. And do we always have reliable information on how to properly cover plants for the winter? But our mistakes can cost green pets their lives! Therefore, I propose to discuss the fairly common myths about the winter shelter of plants.
Why did I decide to talk about this today, when it would seem to be too late to do anything in the garden? Because it's never too late to learn something new and useful about our favorite plants and learn from mistakes. I suggest we do it right now :)
Myth 1: all plants in the garden need shelter.
V recent times on television, in newspapers, and on the network, so many recommendations regarding winter shelter for plants began to appear that many novice gardeners decided: literally all the inhabitants of the garden need shelter. But believe me, most of the perennial crops on your site are able to winter well without additional shelter around them, simply because they are perfectly adapted to the climate of your region.
Snow is an excellent heat insulator
Of course, there are sissies that are not too resistant to the vagaries of the weather, and you will have to take care of them: first of all, these are all types of roses (the only exceptions are park roses), clematis that bloom on last year's shoots, phlox, peonies, lilies, rhododendrons and others. But don't overdo it with cover! For example, most of the roses die not from frost, but from banal damping, due to the fact that the plants were covered too early in the fall, and in the spring, on the contrary, they were opened too late.
Myth 2: hiding a plant is a guarantee of its successful wintering.
Many gardeners had to observe a sad picture: carefully prepared for wintering, well-covered plants die for unknown reasons. Why it happens? I think I will not tell you a secret if I say that plants can die not so much from a hard frost, so much from a sharp change in temperature during thaws.
It is the unstable weather with sharp temperature changes that provokes excessive freezing and waterlogging of the soil. Result: various mechanical damage to plants, rotting and damping of the root system and, as a result, death. Remember: even a well-covered plant can die!
What to do
- do not take shelter of plants for the winter as a panacea: shelter is just one of the methods to help increase the winter hardiness of plants. One, but not the only one;
- prepare plants for wintering in a comprehensive manner : pay attention not only to the correct planting of plants, but also to their timely watering, feeding. Cover your plants if they need it, of course!
Myth 3: hilling with earth is a sufficient way to shelter stunted plants for the winter.
Hilling- creating a mound of soil above the roots and remains of stems - traditional method winter shelter of plants. Thanks to hilling, we not so much protect the plants from frost (although the soil freezes in the mound really slower), as we create a soil relief around them. Due to what spring is better diverted melt water, and the plant itself is protected from getting wet.Hilling - good way shelter of plants for the winter, and it is pointless to deny this, and no one is going to. Just try to huddle not with ordinary garden soil, but with humus. Why should you prefer it? Here are the arguments for humus:
- it is looser and light structure(compared to the ground), it does not cake;
- it differs more high thermal insulation, since it has low thermal conductivity;
- significantly increases soil fertility.
Such a structure will become a reliable shelter for your plants, believe me. Moreover, very little is needed for him: uncomplicated frame and any suitable covering material.
Myth 4: the best covering materials for plants for the winter are spruce branches and fallen leaves.
Well, I will not argue: that spruce branches, that fallen leaves are excellent covering materials, but ... Let's talk about them more specifically.Spruce and pine spruce branches are deservedly considered one of the best covering materials: it does not require material costs and does its job perfectly - it becomes an excellent shelter for plants for the winter. Moreover, it protects them not only from severe frosts, but also the ubiquitous rodents that strive to feast on our plants.
In addition, spruce branches provide excellent protection from cold winds, sleet and freezing rain. It does not increase frost resistance, but under it reliable protection conditions ideal for wintering plants are created. Under the shelter of spruce branches, not only the temperature drops are excellently smoothed out, but the burning rays of the winter sun also lose their destructive power. Consequently, spruce branches are ideal for increasing the winter hardiness of plants. But still...
If you live far from the forest, it will be quite problematic to stock up on spruce branches - this is firstly. Secondly, even if the forest is very close, remember: in accordance with the Forestry Regulations, it is allowed to harvest spruce and pine paws only from already felled trees located in places of planned forest felling or in places of sanitary cleaning. And thirdly, together with the spruce branches brought from the forest, you can bring to your country cottage area various pests and even an infection, but do you need it?
Before stocking up on spruce branches, walk through the forest and take a closer look at the pines and spruces from which you are going to harvest the ideal covering material - are they all healthy? Do you see yellowed twigs and rusty needles on them? And what is the state of their bark - are there small black growths and bare areas on it? If so, then such a covering material can only cause irreparable harm to the inhabitants of your site. How to be? The answer is simple - do not bring sick gifts of the forest to your site. You can harvest spruce branches only from those conifers that are healthy, and even better if they grow on your site.
Fallen leaves
Fallen foliage is a good covering material: it reliably protects the soil from the first cold weather and serves as an excellent food for earthworms, which, in turn, increase the fertility of this very soil. But can all the foliage be used for winter shelter of plants?
I think I will not be mistaken, assuming that every gardener had to observe how quickly the leaves of the majority decay. garden trees... In addition, it is in the foliage that mice are very fond of settling down, which will not bring any benefit to the garden, but the harm is definitely. During the winter, only oak foliage does not have time to rot, and therefore it is better to use it as a covering material. Alternatively, you can use birch, maple and chestnut leaves.
But that's not all. Before you cover your plants with foliage, you need to properly prepare it: the leaves must be collected freshly fallen and completely dry. Do not cover plants with wet foliage. , it should be stored in a dry place prior to use.
Another disadvantage of using foliage as a covering material is its spring cleaning: a tedious task that takes a lot of time and effort. How can you avoid this? Everything is extremely simple: collect the foliage in a timely manner, folding it dry into mesh bags made of plastic or nylon mesh with small cells (carrots, onions and other vegetables are sold in such bags) and cover the plants directly with these bags, without spilling the foliage out of them. In such nets, the leaves will be stored normally due to the fact that they can breathe freely. And in the spring, you will dismantle makeshift shelters in just a few minutes.
In order for the foliage in the nets to remain dry and not melted throughout the winter period, additional shelter must be made above it. To do this, you can build a rigid frame in the form of a cube or a pyramid (depending on the shape of the plant to be covered) and cover this frame with any non-woven material (just not with plastic wrap!). If you do not have non-woven material, you can easily use ordinary roofing felt, roofing felt and the like.
Myth 5: nonwovens are the perfect shelter
Of course, non-woven covering materials greatly facilitated our work. With their help, it became easier to grow some heat-loving crops and they really can be excellent material for winter plant protection, but only if you use them right!
I will give a simple example: a spruce, carefully covered with a dense cover made of non-woven material, can simply die after winter. Why? After all, it is these covers that are sold in stores as protection for conifers!
In fact, everything is very prosaic: covers made of nonwoven materials really perfectly protect conifers, but only in countries with winters with little snow! In our harsh winters, when thaws alternate with severe frosts, you need to use such covers very carefully! Just think: all winter your poor spruce will stand in a wet and cold garment, plus strong cold winds and frosts, thanks to which it will turn into an ice shell. What plant can withstand such a test?
What to do? Don't use nonwovens as a winter shelter at all? But no. Just do not wrap the conifers in it completely: throw it on upper part the crown of the tree, by about 1/3, leaving the lower part without cover. Just in no case wrap the upper part of the plant with nonwovens, make something like a hut. Then the delicate branches of conifers will not touch the wet and cold shell made of non-woven material. So you will protect the tree not only from frost, but also from exposure to sunlight.
But snow will be an excellent protection for the lower part of the conifers. Just after a snowfall, rake more snow under the conifers and, if possible, shade it with spruce branches. And only when almost all the snow has melted (around the end of February or the beginning of March), you can throw some kind of fabric over the rest of the tree. Not necessarily non-woven fabric, you can use ordinary burlap or thick cardboard boards.
If you certainly want to use a non-woven covering material for winter protection of roses, clematis and other plants, use it, but combine it with other materials - the same foliage or spruce branches. This is the only way to create the perfect winter shelter for plants.
You can also use as a winter shelter:
- snow - great stuff. It is he who will help you shelter plants from severe frosts, but again, do not use only snow. Throwing it on plants already covered with foliage and non-woven fabric will greatly increase the effectiveness of protection. Take a comprehensive approach to the issue;
- expanded clay , which can be not only an excellent covering material, but also an excellent mulch, good drainage and heat insulator. Moreover, the advantage of expanded clay is also in the fact that it protects plants both in winter and in summer, perfectly protecting them from decay of the root system. To prepare the plants for winter, expanded clay should be added immediately after cutting the plants in the fall, there is no point in waiting for colder weather, and this is very convenient.
- peat , which traditionally insulate the ground around various shrubs and trees. But also be careful with peat - it acidifies the soil very much, and if it is only for the benefit of some plants, then, to the detriment of many.
There isn't a lot of information on plant cover, right? I have collected the most relevant publications on the topic. I hope they will be useful not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners.
The question of what and how to cover plants for the winter arises sharply before every gardener before the end of the next summer season... There are a lot of special covering materials for plants, but this does not mean that you need to wrap bushes, trees or flowers with a thick layer of dense fabric and you don't have to worry. Not every culture needs such procedures, and some are quite simple "old-fashioned" methods of protection, which you will learn about later.
On the eve of winter, people buy winter clothes for themselves or get fur coats and down jackets from wardrobes and mezzanines. Also garden plants need a shelter that reliably protects from frost. And since the crops grow on our site are different, then the types of winter shelters are different for each perennial.
You will learn how to cover plants and how to do it correctly by reading this material.
When to cover plants in the garden for the winter?
In autumn, and even more so in winter, night frosts are common. Gradually, the soil freezes and a crust forms on it. If plants that are not resistant to frost overwinter in the garden, they should begin to be covered. The timing of when to cover plants in the garden for the winter depends on the specific characteristics of the crops. For example, hydrangeas that love warmth need to start covering from October, and roses can wait until the end of the month, since they must first be cut off. But anyway experienced gardeners it is advised not to wait for persistent frosts, since the cold snap is accompanied by snow falling, and this will interfere with the construction of many shelters.
However, it is also not worth rushing to shelter flowers and other plants for winter protection. It happens that the first frosts down to -5 ° С come already in September, which confuses the owners of perennial wintering plants. Do not be afraid of this weather phenomenon.
The first frosts in September-October are a common thing and do not interfere with plants independently, without human intervention, preparing for winter. Even if the thermometer reads -10 ° C, this temperature will not cause any harm to perennials.
Light snow at this time of the year will also not prevent plants from expecting real winter snowfalls, shedding leaves, etc. Indeed, most often, after a small frost, a thaw sets in, even if a crust of ice has formed on the ground before.
Do not rush to build shelters, since this is the last opportunity for plants to enjoy the sun's rays, to absorb the remnants nutrients and distribute them over the branches and leaves, grow roots and finish the maturation of tissues. Without this, garden pets will not have the strength to survive the long winter. Even more - early frosts are good for many bulbous plants, since this slows down their germination and all wintering crops rebuild their rhythm of life under new weather conditions.
What plants to cover for the winter?
All plants can be conditionally divided according to the level of cold resistance and, based on this, construct shelters. Referring a particular crop to a certain type, one should evaluate not only its cold hardiness, but also winter hardiness in general.
This refers to the ability of the plant to withstand low temperatures, dampness and diseases associated with them, spring burns other unfavorable factors, which we associate with the onset of the winter season. To properly cover plants, it is important to assess the ability of garden pets to recover from freezing.
However, the viability of a plant depends not only on its own protective forces, but also on what kind of weather surprises winter has in store.
It is also worth taking into account the climatic zone in which you live and possible temperature anomalies in your region. Only by assessing all of the above factors, you can make a decision on the construction of the shelter.
The first step is to build a shelter for the winter for flowers such as daffodils of all groups as well. Lilies require protection, but not all, but only tubular hybrids, candidum and oriental lilies - they need to be covered especially carefully. Perennials in need of winter protection are Incarvillea, Knifofia, Korean Chrysanthemum, Physostegy, and others.
There is no need to cover for the winter those small-bulbous flowers that bloom in the spring -, (checkerboard and white-flowered), Pushkinia, and others. These plants root well and do not have time to freeze over the winter. But if you plant these bulbs after September 20, you should cover them with mulch on top. One of the conditions for a good wintering of all bulbous plants is a landing site that is not flooded with melt water.
Thermophilic perennial plants such as asparagus, rhubarb, lemon balm and others also need winter shelter.
The best covering material for plants for the winter
Modern covering materials for plants for the winter amaze with their variety. But at the same time, we should not forget about those who served faithfully to our grandmothers and grandfathers. They should be used together to create a secure shelter.
Non-woven.
The most commonly used dense non-woven white material, or geotextile. You should choose a material of high density - from 80 g per 1 m2. Such fabric does not get wet and performs its protective functions better. When installing shelters, it is necessary to ensure that the material does not come into contact with the leaves or needles of plants. Also, the coating should only be white.
Sackcloth.
This coating is more effective than nonwoven fabric. Under burlap, plants do not die or burn. The cover can be used even without a frame, simply by throwing the material over the plant and tying it with a rope on top.
Even if the leaves of evergreen plants freeze to the burlap, in the spring they regenerate without loss. Burlap is often used not as a shelter from frost, but as protection from desiccation and burns. The only drawback of the material is the price. For example, grade 60 geotextiles are about 4 times cheaper than burlap.
Jute mesh.
In fact, this material for sheltering crops for the winter is a more expensive version of burlap. In addition, jute mesh is not soft and difficult to work with.
Film.
Without it, it is impossible to make an air-dry shelter for the most demanding plants - roses and hydrangeas. But a special approach is needed to the film; when constructing protection, it is necessary to know some of the nuances so as not to destroy the plants.
Composite canvas.
It is a novelty among the covering materials for plant cover. The fabric consists of geotextile and fine-mesh plastic mesh... When installing structures from a composite canvas, it is necessary to additionally create a frame, since the material will not hold the shape. The canvas is intended only for small plants, since its width leaves 0.4-1 m and it is not enough to cover large plants.
Plant shelter rules
Before covering flowers and other plants, you should familiarize yourself with the basic installation rules. protective materials in accordance with local climatic characteristics and their capabilities.
Remember that plants, unlike us, are not warm-blooded creatures. And if we can keep warm by putting on a fur coat, then it is useless to wrap up the plants. V winter time heat comes from the ground, and in order for the shelter to have a comfortable temperature, it is necessary to reduce heat loss due to heat-insulating materials. The winter plant house will be warmer if it is low. But various covers, winding plants on a support serve to protect against burns, wind, but not from frost.
The main heat-insulating material presented to us by nature itself is snow. If a layer of loose snow lay on the site all winter, there would be no need to worry about shelters. Therefore, all protective devices must be constructed so that they are covered with snow. They should not be tall or with visors that obstruct coverage.
Heat is retained better if loose materials are used, and the shelter itself should contain layers of air.
Shelters must be built in a timely manner, as mentioned above, and before that, the plants are fed, cut off, then the soil around them is loosened, covered with humus, compost, manure and spud. Only after that you can proceed to the construction of protection.
Despite all the efforts of gardeners, it happens that plants die in shelters, and most often it is not the cold that is to blame for this, but various diseases that develop in damp conditions. Therefore, it is worthwhile to attend to the creation of dry shelters, as well as ventilate the plants in autumn and spring and prevent water from flowing into them.
The main types of winter shelter for plants
The main types of plant shelter for the winter are mulching, hilling, air-dry and air-wet methods.
Mulching.
Mulching means covering the ground various materials in order to reduce heat loss and to preserve the root system. Almost all overwintering garden plants can be sprinkled with mulch. But this is especially important for bulbs and plants that are not cold-resistant enough or with a superficial root system.
Humus, sawdust, peat, leaves and other materials are used as mulch. Plants are mulching around, but the place where the earth adheres to the trunk of the plant should not be touched. Over time, the mulch can move closer to the base of the plants due to snow and rain. In order to prevent this, the space directly near the trunk must be covered with sand with a small slide.
Often, garden plants are covered with fallen leaves, but it should be borne in mind that dry leaves scattered on the ground perfectly perform the function of thermal insulation. On the contrary, wet foliage only worsens the situation and promotes decay. If plants with rosettes overwinter on the site (for example, Korean chrysanthemums), wet leaves for them can cause death, especially if a humid climate prevails in the region.
Hilling.
Hilling means adding soil, peat, sawdust and other loose materials to the base of the bush. The layer is laid with a height of 10-40 cm. Thus, in the area of the root collar, the temperature rises and the buds present in this place are preserved. This is done for many plants - hydrangeas, clematis, roses. But be careful, because for some plants prone to warming, hilling can be the cause of death, as it leads to damping out of the bark in the area of the base of the bush.
In the northwest, the climate is unstable, winter takes a long time and plants should be hilled with caution. In addition, hilling should not be carried out if frost cracks have appeared on the plant. For example, in roses, an infection can penetrate through the formed cracks.
Bending down.
Many plants have a ground part that is susceptible to cold weather. These can be shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots. Such plants are protected by bending down, followed by covering with snow. Bending is carried out as follows: a peg is driven into the ground and the upper part of the plant is fixed in a horizontal position with ropes and a wire bow. There are even special wire stands on sale equipped with rings to support the bushes.
It is necessary to put boards or trellises under the plant so that it is not bent to the ground and the branches do not rot from dampness. This must be done before the onset of frost, otherwise the wood will become too fragile. Sometimes the plants are covered with a non-woven fabric on top. Bending down are subject large-leaved hydrangeas, shrubby and climbing roses, weigels and others. In the spring, the bushes must be straightened before the shoots appear, otherwise the plants will bend.
Air dry shelter.
This is the most time consuming and at the same time one of the most efficient winter shelters. It consists of solid frame that can withstand the weight of snow (up to 60 cm high), an insulating layer and a moisture insulating layer. The frame is made of thick wire, a shield, a wooden box, laid on supports.
As heat insulating material lutrasil or panels of any fabric are used. The moisture insulating layer is made of transparent or black polyethylene film or roofing material. A silver film is also suitable for this - it is opaque, but, unlike black, it heats up much less. When using transparent film, the shelter must be additionally shaded, otherwise in the spring the protective structure will turn into a greenhouse and the plants will overheat.
All structures using film suffer from one misfortune - dampness. It is necessary to ensure dryness in the shelter, and they do it as follows.
All fallen leaves and weeds are removed inside the winter house. They also pluck all the leaves from the plant itself and dry this place well.
For example, above the plant, you can set polyethylene roof... When creating protection, it is necessary to use only dry materials to avoid additional moisture.
It is also necessary to make holes in the structure for ventilation. They are closed at the onset of frost with a film or lutrasiril, so that the plant is at least a little ventilated at the onset of a thaw.
Air-wet shelter.
This structure is an alternative to the difficult to install air-dry shelter.
The purpose of such a shelter is to create an air gap around the plant. At the same time, the plant itself is not isolated from moisture, it gets wet and dries out as a result of airing, but it is very important not to press it tightly to the ground during the construction of the structure.
Typically, a dense non-woven fabric is placed on a low support. The support may not be as strong as in the case of an air-dry shelter, and the material is laid in 1-2 layers.
The support can be made from slats laid on logs or bricks. Even plastic vegetable crates are suitable for this purpose.
Such protection is especially useful for cuttings, which, thanks to it, do not stick to the ground and, therefore, do not rot. If chrysanthemums and phlox are to be hidden under the shelter, the remains of the stems that stick out after pruning are used as support. On them, the plant is covered with thick lutrasil or cloth. With this method of protection, the plant can be kept in a shelter in any weather and the timing of opening is not critical.
In the next section of the article, you will learn how to cover roses, conifers and evergreen trees for the winter.
How to properly cover trees and climbing roses for the winter (with video)
Shelter for rhododendrons and conifers.
These types of plants do not tolerate winter well. They suffer most often not from frost, but from burns, debate and desiccation. To shelter for the winter coniferous trees and rhododendrons, first of all they need to be protected from wind, sun and heavy snow, since branches can break under its weight.
Shelter for evergreen trees.
Before covering evergreen trees for the winter, prepare correct material... These plants do not tolerate foil and even dense lutrasil as protection. For them, constructions are made using light-colored fabric.
You can sew a cover from old sheets and secure it with sticks set like a hut and a rope. Boxes with cracks are also used as shelters, and only the roof is covered with polyethylene. Plants shade in autumn, and they remove protection in cloudy weather after the snow melts and the ground thaws.
Shelter of climbing roses.
In the case of these plants, it is necessary to apply several methods of protection at once. Bushes huddle, bend down and cover.
When installing protective structure you need to be prepared for any weather conditions that are often impossible to predict. Therefore, it is important to choose the optimal types of shelters that will stand in the garden until spring. It is also important not to overfeed plants with nitrogen in the fall, to fight pests and diseases, and to comply with planting dates. This will allow plants to survive even the most severe frosts without loss.
Watch a video on how to cover roses for the winter to reliably protect the plants:
Your house and summer cottage need special care in the fall, since winter is just around the corner, and there are fewer and fewer warm days suitable for work. On land plot all living things seem to freeze in anticipation of extraordinary metamorphoses. Slowing down life processes, plants do their best to prepare for the most unfavorable time of the year.
However, often plants do not always manage to fully enter the hibernation season and successfully transfer it without human help. On our plots every year more and more species and varieties come from the warmer climatic zones... Often these are already well-acclimatized hybrids, capable of more or less easily adapting to harsh weather conditions, although when compared with the local flora, these plants are noticeably inferior to them in terms of endurance.
Particularly at risk of death in winter period trees and shrubs, the ground part of which during hibernation is not covered by protective insulating materials and snow. Blown from all sides by a frosty wind, branches can get local frostbite, the worst of which is freezing and kidney death.
Touching upon the topic of winter hardiness of plants, it is important to understand that the hardiness of varieties to cold weather depends on many cumulative factors:
Cultivated plants brought from warm climatic zones, as well as local ones crossed with thermophilic varieties, rarely tolerate a drop in temperature starting from -25 ° C;
Long-term stay in low temperatures leads to the complete death of both ground and underground parts of heat-loving plants;
The vegetable garden in the fall is characterized by a destructive alternation of high humidity at a temperature of about zero with sharp freezing and thawing of the soil;
Late cold summers with prolonged rainy weather lead to a stretching of the vegetation process, when the seeds begin to ripen in the pre-autumn period, without having time to reduce the growth rate by winter;
Incorrect agricultural practices, excessive or late application of fertilizing rich in nitrogen, can significantly prolong all vegetation processes, bypassing high-quality preparation for seasonal hibernation.
Covering materials
Covering materials can be used for any plant in your area, both for decorative flower species and food.
Consider the main materials:
1. The coniferous lapnik, like the needles itself, individually has excellent snow-retention and heat-insulating properties.
2. Lutrasil is an artificial canvas of varying density, used as a common covering material over the soil, as well as when covering bulk structures and frames (for example, knocked together pyramids for conifers).
3. Ready-made mulching mixture of ecological natural ingredients, which can be easily purchased in any flower shop, is mainly used to shelter varieties that are sensitive even to the slightest fluctuations in temperature (often as a shelter for roses and other capricious crops).
4. Humus, fresh and rotted foliage tree species, peat serve as a convenient material for mulching and hilling the covered area of land.
5. Due to its density and high insulating capacity, kraft paper qualitatively protects against frost and temperature extremes.
All of these materials are capable of showing excellent frost protection, but it is worth taking apart the strong and weak sides shelters. So, with all the convenience of using lutrasil, one should not forget about its ability to insulate without producing sufficient air circulation. The heat accumulated inside can cause plants to overheat during even short winter thaws.
Kraft paper pleasantly pleases with its impermeability to light, as a result of which your pets (in particular, conifers) will not be at risk of any sunburn.
Vegetable mulch taken from natural environment, can be infected with dangerous pests and diseases, the manifestation of which will be noticeable already in the next growing season. Many gardeners and summer residents, preparing a garden and a vegetable garden for the winter, prefer to buy ready-made mulch, which can also act as a pleasant decorating material.
Shelter roses
Preparing the site for winter, gardeners are especially trembling with a high-quality shelter of roses. Today, there are a huge variety of their forms, for each of which there are certain rules for preparing for hibernation.
So, for example, climbing roses finish fertilizing with nitrogen-containing dressings already at the end of July - beginning of August. In October, unripe shoots are removed from roses to the place of ripening. Taking the moment, you can try to form a bush by cutting off old useless unproductive lashes.
It is advisable to cut off the foliage from the bushes or cut off with disinfected scissors - here as you like. It is advisable to bend the lashes themselves and fix them as close to the ground as possible so that they do not touch it.
Standard roses are also bent to the ground, trying not to damage the root collar, it is best to do this anatomically according to its apparent bend. When pruning, all other roses do not have to be bent down and freed from leaves, the main thing is that the remaining ground part allows high-quality covering material to be applied on top, especially if it is a box or fabric.
It is important to remember that the preparation of roses must be carried out at positive or near zero temperatures, since hiding roses in winter is more than a useless exercise - the flowers will die anyway. If you are used to hilling and covering roses with a cloth, you have probably already encountered the problem of rotting and overgrowing of a bush with a dangerous fungus. As a rule, this occurs due to a violation of the microcirculation of air inside the shelter, the accumulation and heating of moisture during thaws.
To prevent such unpleasant consequences it is important to keep a small breathing gap between the ground and the fabric. Special purchased “fur coat” -type shelters based on peat and sphagnum moss will help to absorb excess moisture. The latter, in turn, except thermal insulation properties has a good bactericidal and antifungal effect.
The finished mixture is usually simply poured over the huddled bushes with a layer of several centimeters and that's it - a reliable shelter of roses for the winter is ready! Such a mixture guarantees effective preservation during wintering of almost all plants on the site, except, perhaps, trees and tall shrubs, whose branches can still suffer from frosty winds.
Hiding chrysanthemums
Common chrysanthemums, cultivated by flower growers for many years, tolerate winter heat well. Modern Korean varieties do not differ in impressive bud sizes, but they are adapted to our weather in the best way.
After the chrysanthemums have faded, they must be cut and bent to the ground like roses. From above, the bushes can be covered with foliage or humus mulch, additionally covered with any waterproof material. As soon as the soil begins to thaw, you can lift the fabric (film), completely removing it only when the ground is completely thawed.
Beautifully blooming indian chrysanthemums amaze with the size of the buds and the intolerance of even the smallest drops in temperature. It is better not to leave these flowers outdoors for the winter. To preserve them, it is worth digging the underground part and placing it in a cellar or other little-heated dark room until spring arrives.
The ground part is cut to a height of 10-12 cm. It is advisable to use wooden "breathing" boxes for laying. Chrysanthemums laid up by layering upwards are sprinkled with a substrate consisting of peat, sphagnum and coarse river sand at will. Chrysanthemums should never be watered, since old roots can begin to take root, especially in the presence of at least a weak light source.
Shelter of clematis
Clematis beds also need special care in autumn. Depending on the variety, clematis are cut to a height of 30 cm to 1.5 m. All unnecessary vines are cut out, the rest are twisted like a ring or spiral and laid closer to the ground. As thermal insulation material any natural material that is sprinkled on the plants with a layer of 20–40 cm can be used.
The substrate must be well dried and porous. From above, clematis are additionally covered (if necessary) with a box or frame, as well as any waterproof material. There should be a small gap between the ground and the top layer of the shelter.
This method of protection requires additional actions on the part of the grower. In winter, it is necessary to tread paths between the plants so that mice cannot enter the gaps. In the spring, with the arrival of the first thaws, it is important to remove the waterproof material (usually a film) in time to prevent clematis from burning.
Shelter bulbous
In order for the garden and vegetable garden to not experience great stress in winter, it is necessary to stock up on mulching in advance natural material, since, as practice shows, there is never a lot of it - there is always something that could still be covered. This is especially true for bulbous plants, since their underground part contains a lot of water and is subject to rapid freezing.
Perhaps the most unpretentious among the bulbs are tulips, some small-bulbous, colchicum, less often daffodils. Colchicum preferably planted in open ground no later than mid-August, so it does not require additional shelter, having managed to take root well. Landing in the 20th of October will require reliable cover.
Daffodils and some small-bulbous plants are recommended to be planted no later than mid-September. Tulips can be tolerated until mid-October. If the planting dates noticeably move forward, insulation for the winter is simply necessary. Daffodils and lilies mostly poorly tolerated very coldy, so it is advisable to play it safe and always cover these flowers.
To prevent the bulbs in the soil from getting wet, you can cover them with a film until the rains stop completely. Before the last preparations, dry mulch should be applied under the film in a layer of no more than 3-5 cm. You can leave a gap for breathing.
With the arrival of autumn, it is usually the shelter for roses that causes particular concern, and the importance of warming other plants in a number of cases is practically nullified. But do not forget that in our gardens and orchards there are more people from warm countries who demand special attention... And in order not to be upset next spring by the presence of flowers that have not risen, it is worth thinking now how exactly you will insulate the plants for winter.
How to properly cover plants for the winter video
Success in floriculture and good luck!
November is approaching - it's time to equip the winter hut. Do I need to cover plants for the winter? - Alas, you have to.
Neither you nor I contented ourselves with the original inhabitants of our harsh climate in our garden. For such exotic things as roses, lavender, boxwood, grapes you have to pay - do not spare time and effort on shelter of plants for the winter... You can, of course, take the risk and leave it as it is, but it’s a pity to miss your favorite bushes and flowers in the spring. V best case, they will lose a significant part of the crown, at worst - not wake up at all.
What plants should be covered?
First of all, guests from warm countries or places with mild winters- this is lavender, boxwood, grapes. Not all types of sage and thyme (thyme) endure our winters without loss, you need to experiment with them. Clematis, most roses are also at risk. We also plant thermophilic cypress trees - without winter shelter, their crown is damaged.
Container plants - lemons, rosemary, etc. it is necessary to bring it into the house at all. Even the tightest shelter will not save these southerners on the street.
Potted seedlings, even the most winter-hardy ones (currants, Siberian cedars, spruces, pines), should be buried flush with the ground, flush.
Most thujas do not mind our winter cold, however, young thujas, up to 5 years old, it is better to warm them for the winter.
Tall thujas, slender junipers and winter-hardy cypress trees are recommended to be tied with stockings or wrapped in lutrasil so that their branches do not crumble and break under heavy wet snow. I confess that I do not do this for aesthetic reasons: we all year round we live in a village, and we brought conifers so that there would be no greenery in winter. So old juniper stockings don't suit me. But I have the opportunity to shake off the bushes after a snowfall. After the famous Moscow catastrophic icing, she even heated the pine trees, freeing them from ice with the help of the Veterok electric heater 
Risk factors:
Snowless ("black") frosts, strong and prolonged winter cold and, oddly enough, the bright March sun. The sun against the background of white snow damages tender young conifers. You can save them by covering them with a non-woven fabric or installing a screen on the south side.
Preparing plants for winter
Preparation for wintering is important not only for thermophilic plants. Even the native inhabitants of the Middle Lane can hardly endure the harsh winter. If you are using fertilizers, stop feeding nitrogen in advance, at the end of summer. Nitrogen contributes to the growth of green mass, while by autumn, the ripening of the shoots is more important. For some perennials, it is recommended to remove flowers and buds by the end of September. Adding a thick layer of humus under the bushes will not only improve the soil, but also warm the roots in winter. After all, humus is both a fur coat and a stove.
What and how to cover
The method of shelter depends on the plant: its height, winter hardiness, susceptibility to mold damage, etc. I will outline the general principles.
Step 1. We remove from the support, lower it to the ground: roses, clematis, grapes.
Step 2... We fill the bushes with oak leaves. Oak itself does not rot, and prevents the spread of rot and fungal infection. We have our own oaks growing on the site, and nearby is a whole oak grove. I visit the grove with great plastic bag, where I densely stuff the fallen leaves. If the oaks are tight, you can cover them with dry leaves of other trees, sawdust or even dry peat.
Step 3. Cover the mountain of oak leaves wooden box... This is the ideal. There are not enough boxes for all plants. Then they go carton boxes, plastic buckets, multilayer lutrasil, pressed with boards - any material at hand, for which there is enough imagination. What is not recommended to use is a plastic wrap, underneath it is the expanse of all kinds of rot and mushrooms.
I saw how some gardeners use spruce branches for winter shelter. I am against this method for ideological reasons - forest trees should not pay for our love of exoticism.
Step 4. Optional... When the first snow falls, it is advisable to warm it up on sheltered beds. Plants will be warmer.
When to shelter for the winter
The question is complex. You have to guess with the weather. Cover it too late - the plants will freeze, too early - they will rot. Most of all, one should beware of prolonged snowless, "black" frosts. As a rule, I cover the plants in the first half of November, with the onset of stable frosts.
When to open plants in spring
It is equally important to open the plants on time. Again, if you open it too early, the March sun will burn the bushes weakened by winter hibernation, if you miss the moment, you will create a space for infection in the dark, warm, moist depths of the covering material ... I open it when the snow has mostly melted. And immediately after - a revitalizing nitrogen fertilization (boxes of urea on a bucket of water, or just lightly sprinkle under the ornamental bushes).
It is a shame when a plant that seems to have endured the winter well, so tender and green under a layer of oak leaves, quickly dies when it finds itself in the open air. This happens. That is life.
On the other hand, sometimes some clematis does not want to wake up in the spring. Others have already picked up the buds, but this one did not come out of the ground. Do not rush to put a cross on it, take place with another plant. May still wake up with a great delay. It happens. This is an unpredictable life.
Good luck and snowy winter to you and your plants!