A rare front garden does without large-leaved hydrangea. This shrub blooming in lush clusters is a true decoration of the garden.
Large-leaved hydrangea - plant description
Initially, the predecessor of the large-leaved hydrangea came to the gardens of Europe straight from Japan and a little later, thanks to breeders from France, the heroine of the article appeared. This variety is less frost-resistant than other varieties, but it is distinguished by lush bloom and changing color of the foliage during the season. All summer long, the huge leaves remain green, and closer to the end of the warm season, they begin to twitch with a light red coating.
The racemes of inflorescences consist of flowers with a diameter exceeding 3 cm, and the inflorescences themselves reach about 18 cm.
Depending on the variety, large-leaved hydrangea can have different shades of flowers:
- white;
- pink;
- blue.
The shrub blooms quite early, approximately after the May holidays. After the flowering period has passed, the inflorescences do not fly around, but only their color changes to greenish. So such a plant is decorative and can decorate the garden throughout the spring and summer.
But it is important to remember that you need to purchase seedlings from trusted suppliers or nurseries in order to avoid falsification. Hydrangea is popular and the demand for it is quite high.
Landing in open ground
For a long time, hydrangea has been cultivated as indoor plant, but after the breeders bred new varieties, it became possible to plant it in the open field.
Site and soil preparation
It is important to properly prepare the soil and place for planting. Then from the very beginning the shrub will develop correctly, which will strengthen the hydrangea's immune system.
Although the beautiful hydrangea loves bright light, you should not indulge this whim. It is best to equip it in partial shade.
It is good if the base of the plant turns out to be shaded, but the crown will be saturated with the sun.
It is important to follow some rules when landing:
- shrubs should not be planted close to trees, as it draws a lot of moisture from the soil;
- if the base of the hydrangea is under the sun, then the plant will suffer from the fact that the soil dries out a lot;
- in the shade, the inflorescences become smaller;
- the flowering period of the bush in the shade is shorter.
True gardeners prefer to arrange on their site not only vegetable beds, but also to plant various ornamental shrubs. Among the great abundance of species and varieties, the leader is hydrangea large-leaved – ornamental shrub, blooming in large armfuls of small delicate flowers.
It should be noted that the care and planting of large-leaved hydrangea is also possible at home - in indoor colored pots, this plant grows in small bushes, which also bloom in small clusters of flowers.
If you plant a plant on garden plot, you can achieve the formation of a large and neat bush that will bloom during almost the entire warm season.
Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea
Before purchasing seedlings for planting, you should study the characteristics of each variety, whether the one you like is suitable for planting in your own region.
Large leaf hydrangea has great amount varieties that are subdivided into variety series, which include similar varieties of ornamental shrubs and have the same features in growth.
It is recommended to plant in the garden those varieties that can survive the winter, in some regions you will have to resort to additional shelter. The most suitable for planting and growing in the garden include the following cultivars:
Endless Summer - the variety series has a second name " Endless summer". This is due to the flowering of the plant, which occurs from late spring to early autumn. The variety series includes many varieties that differ in shade of flowers: Twist-and-Shout, Blashing Bride, Original ( Baimer), Bloom Star. 
ForeverandEver - the variety series includes varieties Peppermint, Blue Heaven, Red Sensation, Pink / Blue ( early sensation), White Ball. Varieties bloom for several years in a row with the same strength, gardeners see large inflorescences, often planted at home. 
YouandMe - Japanese series includes such varieties as Together, Romance, Expression, Forever, Symphony, Eternity, Love. Last new variety (Love) - pink hydrangea - was artificially bred only in 2015, but immediately gained popularity due to its color - these shrubs bloom with large pink buds, which resemble the Japanese beauty that is habitually observed in all kinds of landscapes of the corresponding subject. 
As it became clear above, a large number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea are explained by the artificial breeding of breeders different countries. Each group prefers to create only those varieties of plants that take root well in their climate.
So it is noted that varieties of North American groups are able to survive the winter with frosts of -15 degrees without additional shelter.
For planting in the eastern part of Russia, it is better to use varieties of European selections - they are able to withstand frosts down to -20 degrees. But in order to avoid the death of the shrub, experts advise nevertheless to cover it for the winter.
Large-leaved hydrangea. Features of flowering and care, video:
Planting hydrangeas in the garden
Planting on the garden plot of large-leaved hydrangea occurs in the spring. If desired or necessary, seedlings can be planted in the fall, but no later than mid-September, so that the root system has time to strengthen in the ground. In order for the shrub to bloom perfectly during the summer, you should choose places slightly shady and protected from the winds.
But at the same time, it is important that sunlight falls on the plant - due to biological clock hydrangeas will be better if the sun illuminates the bush in the morning and evening.
Sun exposure time per day should not be less than 6 hours in total.
It is also important that the hydrangea does not coexist with such bushes and plants that have to be constantly uprooted and planted again. This is necessary to preserve the root system, since this ornamental shrub does not tolerate damage. Otherwise, the planting of large-leaved hydrangeas is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
Immediately after planting, hydrangeas are watered, and plentifully, so that the soil is thoroughly saturated with water. In conclusion, mulching should be carried out - sprinkle the landing site with peat and sawdust. Mulching retains moisture in the soil for long time, and in this case ornamental plant maintains an acidic environment.
Care
Beginning gardeners are afraid to take on planting hydrangeas in the garden, believing that a lot of care is required for its growth. In fact, this shrub is unpretentious - it is enough to water it every time the top soil dries up. In order for the hydrangea to bloom well, its soil must always be moist. Also for better growth and flowering are fertilized. Feed the shrub three times:
- in the spring before the leaves bloom from the buds or when planting a seedling;
- before bud ripening;
- in early autumn, when flowering begins to end.
For top dressing, you do not have to purchase any substances for self-mixing - it is enough to purchase complex mineral top dressing designed for hydrangeas in a specialized store. Dilute the solution strictly according to the instructions. In certain situations, you can use humus or manure.
Features of growing at home
As mentioned above, hydrangea grows well at home. To do this, you should purchase ready-made soil with a medium acidic environment and plant a seedling in a pot, the width of which does not exceed the height. It is better to put the pot on the east side so that the hydrangea can get enough of the sunlight, but at the same time it is not burned by it. Recommended for home growing make diffused light.
Hydrangea large-leaved at home does not grow to large sizes - the maximum allowable volume of a pot for a shrub is 7 l. Of course, if you wish, you can grow a whole bush, which will not differ in size from garden specimens. Shrub care is no different - here they also make three top dressings during the warm season, and also water well throughout the growth.
True, unlike the garden specimen home plant should not be covered for the winter - at this time, the hydrangea is not recommended to be removed from the windowsill and should not be fertilized.
It is important to simply prevent the soil and root system from drying out. Often, hydrangeas when grown at home bloom twice.
pruning
To form a beautiful and neat bush, garden or home hydrangea must be pruned. Trimming the bush for conservation correct form, and also for the possibility of strong branches to germinate and bloom. Therefore, the shrub must be inspected periodically - as soon as weak and dried branches are found, they are removed at the root.
In summer, the bush is checked to maintain its shape - for this, all branches that grow inside the bush are removed. At the end of flowering, you can notice new branches at the bottom of the bush - they are removed to the lower new growths.
Pruning large-leaved hydrangea in the fall. Video:
Reproduction of hydrangea
Seeing the beauty of hydrangeas, gardeners wish propagate shrub, which is carried out in several ways: by seeds, layering, cuttings or dividing the bush. Planting layering or dividing the bush is popular - in this way it is faster to grow a new seedling for planting in open ground.
The division of the bush
The division of the bush is the most fast way get a new seedling. The donor bush, of course, will become much smaller, but this The best way reproduction, especially if everything is carried out in one garden plot. A similar division is carried out in the spring - preferably before the buds ripen.
For reproduction, it is necessary to carefully dig up the shrub and divide it into several seedlings so that each of them contains the buds of a new growth. Otherwise, the new hydrangea seedling will turn into old bush, which will not bloom with the abundance as it should.
The separated seedling is transplanted into appropriate place, having previously cut off 3-4 cm from the root system. It is also important to consider all the roots during transplantation - if there are rotten ones, they must be removed. Before planting, they also work with shoots - they are shortened to 3-5 buds from the rhizome. If everything is done in the spring, in the fall the new seedling will take root completely and calmly endure the winter.
Reproduction by layering
Reproduction by layering easier, because it does not require painstaking work with the root system. Layers are young shoots that can be found near the root neck of the main hydrangea bush.
The shoots have a thin stem with leaves, which must be separated from the bush without tearing it off, and simply dig it into new holes nearby.
In the place where the layering went deep into the ground, it is necessary to tear off all the leaves from it carefully, without damaging the stem itself. The pre-dug hole should be about 15 cm deep. The layering should also be prepared before deepening into the ground - for this, a 2-3 cm incision is made in the stem and a match is inserted.
This will help the root system to germinate faster. Layers are added dropwise with the same mixture that was used to plant the main seedling. The layering remaining on the surface should be tied to a peg dug in next to it. By the fall, the root system will go, but for now it is provided with the same care as for the main hydrangea.
When the roots hatch in the fall, the layers can be separated. Such a hydrangea is planted only in spring - after wintering with the main shrub. A year later, you can admire the ripening of the buds and not abundant flowering.
How to prepare large-leaved hydrangea for winter?
Since the weather in Russia can be harsh on plants, it is important to know how to cover a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter - this will help avoid the death of a bush.
Hydrangea shelter should be resorted to only before severe frosts, which on average occurs in October or November. Depending on the size of the bush, there are two ways to shelter hydrangeas for the winter.
If the bush has not yet acquired large sizes, it can be covered special insulation. To do this, the entire shrub should be raised and a layer of sawdust or leaves lined around the trunk - this is important to protect the root system from frost. Next, the hydrangea branches are lowered down and attached with special wire staples.
From above, the entire bush is covered with a special agrofibre, the free ends of which are dug in with earth. Additionally, you can cover the hydrangea with a sheet of slate - this will protect it from excess moisture, which may be in autumn time and will also start in the spring.
The second method is used when the hydrangea has grown to a significant size and its branches can no longer be attached to the ground - they will simply break. In this case, the branches are lifted, tied, laying twine around, and covered insulation material in 2-3 layers.
Take a look at this stuff -
A frame is built around the resulting "mummy" - you can use a simple metal mesh, which is placed around and fastened. Inside the frame, on top of the wrapped hydrangea bush, spruce branches or dry foliage should be poured, completely to the full height. The entire structure is covered with a film or roofing material, they are also fixed and left until spring.
A little about pests and diseases
Despite its grandeur and beauty, large-leaved hydrangea is rarely affected by pests or diseases. Often it is a "victim" of infection from a nearby plant. To the most common problems with hydrangea include:
- Chlorosis is a disease that provokes lightening of the leaves, which leads to increased alkali in the soil. To cope with the problem, it is necessary to increase the acidity in the soil.
- downy mildew- oil spots appear on the leaves, which turn yellow after a few days. The plant withers, flowering may stop. To avoid this, you should immediately pour the hydrangea with a mixture, mixing 150 g of soap and 15 g blue vitriol. The resulting mixture is poured into a bucket of water with a volume of 10 liters.
- Spider mite - this disease has a name corresponding to the species - the leaves of the shrub are covered with a characteristic cobweb. After a short time of illness, the hydrangea throws off the leaves. You can get rid of the disease only by spraying the entire shrub with a special solution. To do this, ascaricide is purchased in the store and diluted according to the instructions.
Large-leaved, rather thermophilic and very effective varieties of large-leaved hydrangea were first obtained in France.
Further selection, aimed, among other things, at obtaining cold-resistant forms, led to the appearance of such hydrangeas that are able to overwinter. in open ground middle lane - truth, with obligatory winter shelter.
These hardy varieties include:
- grade "Alpengluchen" characteristic slender lush bush, which in June-July is covered with rich red caps of inflorescences.
- Line of terry varieties U&M combines in inflorescences different ages light and rich shades of pink.
- "Forever and Ever" glitters with flowers of various colors: pink, white, red, blue.
- Hydrangea "Endless summer"(Endless Summer) is able to bloom again.
Large-leaved hydrangeas are also grown in room culture, which solves the problem of wintering, but does not allow the bushes to reach those impressive sizes that they are potentially capable of.
A photo
Landing and care
Location selection
For abundant and friendly flowering requires a sufficient amount of sunlight. However, in the sun, the “vessel of water” dries quickly.
Therefore, the landing site must be slightly shaded. One of suitable options: Bottom part bush is shaded, and the top is in the sun. Neighborhood with large trees is undesirable, because their powerful root system quickly absorbs soil moisture, which is so necessary for hydrangeas.
Priming
The soil must be slightly or medium acid, moderately loose and quite nutritious. Its composition can be as follows: peat, humus, turf, leafy soil and sand in equal amounts. They also use an "equivalent" mixture of peat, humus, rotten needles and garden soil.
Landing
The best time to plant this bush in open ground is end of spring(warmed soil and no frost). The planting hole should be the size of the seedling's root system. For medium-sized plants, in particular, 35 cm in length, width and depth is sufficient.
At the bottom of the pit, if the soil is clayey, a drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, brick or ceramic batt is laid. Place a layer of prepared soil mixture and carefully spread root system pre-soaked in a bucket of water.
Fill up the soil, carefully compacting it, make organic and complete mineral fertilizers, which will contribute to the formation of flower buds.
Watered, then the surface of the earth is mulched fallen needles or crushed bark. This last operation necessary to ensure that the soil under the bush retains moisture longer. Hydrogel is also added to retain moisture in the soil.
The distance between several seedlings should be at least one meter.
Irrigation water must be soft, as this plant does not tolerate hard, calcareous water.
The ideal option is watering with rainwater. Water from the water supply network should be well settled and warmed up, and periodically it is useful add a little acidifier - lemon juice or vinegar.
In the summer, if there is no rain, each bush should receive two buckets of water weekly.
top dressing
The plant responds well to mineral fertilizing with a complex for heather, rhododendrons and azaleas. The best option – special mixtures designed specifically for hydrangeas.
The timing of fertilizer application takes into account the main phases of growth and development:
- spring dressing promotes the formation of young shoots;
- June contributes to the abundant formation of buds;
- summer, during the flowering period, prolongs flowering and provides the laying of flower buds that will open next year. Potassium and phosphorus components should be added to this top dressing, and nitrogen should be reduced.
- autumn, before shelter, consists of superphosphate and potassium.
pruning
Large-leaved hydrangea, as a rule, is cut slightly, limited to the spring removal of weak, damaged and thickening shoots. This gentle mode is due to the fact that flowering provide only last year's lignified shoots which should be preserved as much as possible.
Lines of varieties Forever and Ever, U&M, Endless Summer bloom with shoots of both the past and the current year, so these bushes can be subjected to significant pruning not only in spring, but also after flowering- half the length of the shoots or more.
How to cover for the winter?
In August-September, if the weather is dry, the hydrangea should be watered abundantly. A well-moistened plant will more easily endure future frosts. At the same time, as a prevention of rot under cover, spraying with a Bordeaux mixture is carried out.
In October, with the onset of night frosts, spud bushes to a height of 0.3 meters.
In the beginning of November branches are bent to the ground, covered with dry foliage, covered with spruce branches.
You can put on top box or crate of suitable dimensions, which will provide an air heat-insulating pillow, or install low arcs and cover them with plastic wrap.
In the spring this shelter follows take off gradually.
Bloom
The standard flowering time is in the summer months - June and July.
In order for the hydrangea to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier, and its inflorescences to become more powerful, the plant is sprayed with a solution of growth accelerators, gibberellins, in water, at a concentration of 50 mg / l twice, with an interval of four to seven days.
The color of the inflorescences depends on the reaction of the soil and changes from pink in neutral soil to blue and blue in an acidic substrate.
This property is widely used, especially since acidified, soft water is good for plants.
The presence of small amounts of aluminum and iron in the soil creates extra game colors. In particular, in order to obtain a stable blue, it is recommended to water the plants every two weeks with two liters of alum solution - potassium alum or ammonia-potassium - at a concentration of 3-5 g / l.
Faded "hats" immediately do not delete: in winter they will provide additional protection for growth and flower buds. Eliminate these dry flowers only after wintering, at the beginning of next spring.
Seeds of large-leaved hydrangea do not have time to ripen during the summer of the middle lane, so they propagate it exclusively vegetatively: layering and cuttings.
- Reproduction by layering carried out in the spring: bending a suitable branch to the ground, fix it in the middle and dig in. By autumn, the buried part forms a sufficient root system, but the new plant is separated from the mother plant only next spring.
- Reproduction cuttings and is successful in early spring (parts of lignified stems) and summer (segments of green shoots). With the use of growth stimulants, under conditions high humidity, at a temperature of 14-17 degrees, cuttings with two to four nodes quickly form roots in a substrate of leafy soil and peat with sand or in coniferous soil.
Withering in summer with sufficient watering observed in the sun when the temperature rises above 30 degrees. To prevent this from happening, the place for planting hydrangeas should be slightly shaded.
Hydrangea in a site with optimal conditions for it is resistant to disease.
If the soil is limed or oversaturated with humus, the plant may develop chlorosis, in which the leaves, with the exception of the central vein, become yellow-light. In this case, watering potassium nitrate solution with a concentration of 4 g / l, and after 3 days - iron sulfate solution the same concentration.
downy mildew, in which dark oily, gradually spreading spots form on the leaves and stems, it affects the hydrangea at a temperature of 18-20 degrees in combination with high atmospheric humidity. An effective remedy from such a disease is spraying with a copper-soap solution: 15 g copper sulfate and 150 g green soap to a bucket of water.
In open ground, the plant is practically not affected by pests, with the exception of snails, which can eat leaves and buds. In this case, snails and their clutches are collected, destroyed and specialized anti-mollusk preparations are used.
In general, large-leaved hydrangea, as an open field plant, belongs to the rather unpretentious inhabitants of the site.
Wintering presents some problem - even cold-resistant varieties will hardly endure winter temperatures at minus 18 degrees. However, those growers of the middle lane who provide their hydrangeas with adequate winter shelter will be rewarded with regular abundant flowering of lush bushes. In autumn, their leaves, before falling for the winter, acquire a rich red color, bringing their accent to the golden autumn outfit.
Large-leaved hydrangea - a beautiful and large shrub. Distributed in the American and East Asian territories. This plant is fully consistent with its second name, hydrangea, which with Greek translates as a container of water. There are about 80 species of this plant. Where did it come from, what rules of care, reproduction features, conditions for transplantation, protection against diseases - all information on these issues can be found in this article.
The emergence of the plant: historical facts
Large-leaved hydrangea was bred at the start of its victorious European march in France. But she got here in the form of a Chinese plant two centuries ago. This species is not as resistant to winter cold as petiole hydrangea. Without shelter, a large-leaved hydrangea cannot overwinter in any way. This should be taken into account when planting a plant in Eurasia, especially the middle lane.
The history of the emergence of broad-leaved hydrangea is very romantic. Bougainville with his first expedition around the world, being in Indian Ocean, stopped at about. Mauritius. Commerson enjoyed his time in conversation with the military engineer de Saint-Pierre. The latter was carried away beautiful woman, Madame Poivre. She loved to accept flowers as a gift, loved to amaze with spectacular airy outfits and preferred gentle tones of white, blue, and pink in everything.
When the scientist learned that the engineer was giving bouquets to this woman from an unknown shrub covered with balls of inflorescences of his favorite shades, he realized that it was possible to make a small discovery for European countries. But God's providence did not suggest the name "Poivre". Oddly enough, the flower was named after the sister of the Prince of Nassau-Siegen, the future Russian admiral. Her name is Hortense. Commerson was ambitious, and, having heard a lot of stories about a beautiful sister, he proposed giving a European name to the Chinese decorative flower identical to the name of a distant beautiful princess appearance.
The name hydrangea macrophylla was derived by botanists who systematized knowledge about the flora. The name came from the meaning of the Greek words, which are translated into Russian as “water” and “vessel”. The name was given either because of moisture-loving or because special kind boxes with seeds, visually identical to the jug.
The history of large-leaved hydrangea hides some more interesting facts:
- any subspecies of a given plant may have the indication “French” in its name in gratitude for the fact that it was this nation that introduced the countries of Europe to such a beautiful bush;
- the Japanese name for this plant is ajisai (it means that this flower looks like a purple sun);
- blue shades of hydrangea appear due to unique ability plants accumulate aluminum from acidic soils, forming chemical compounds with him;
- like the previous feature, a lilac or pale beige shade of flowers is formed, which are acquired due to alkaline soils.
Rules for the care of large-leaved hydrangea
Large-leaved hydrangea requires attention, like any beautiful lady. Its visual year-round decorativeness is due to the features of large ovoid leaves located opposite each other. In spring and summer they are bright green. Reddish shades on them are formed in the fall.
Inflorescences of flowers, similar to a shield in appearance, create a kind of decoration-protection up to 20 cm. The flowers themselves reach 3 cm. They appear in the middle of summer. The peculiarity is that the inflorescences will not fall off for the next 9 months.
For hydrangea, the following conditions are simply necessary:
The soil
The soil mixture should be with medium or low acidity. It is best if parts of soddy, leafy soil, sand, peat, humus are mixed in equal proportions. In the presence of lime, the plant can be significantly affected. Regarding the color changes of flower petals from pink and white to blue and even blue, depending on the reaction of the soil, it was mentioned above. So, if there is a large-leaved blue beauty in the garden, then the soil under it is acidic. Take the soil in coniferous forest plantations, then it will become pink-flowered hydrangea. One of its species, macrophylla, loves moist soil, but it is not very resistant to frost.
Place to drop off
Large-leaved hydrangea will appreciate the care that begins with her planting. Light-loving does not indicate the presence of direct sunlight. Therefore, a little penumbra is the golden mean that the plant badly needs so that it does not dry out and blooms profusely. Large-leaved hydrangea planting is optimized in places where the shadow falls on the base of the bush.
Feeding features
For the hydrangea to turn red, the soil must be acidic. But this is a relative concept. Pure red is impossible to achieve. In principle, the flowers of the plant will be dark pink. In the same way, you can achieve a pink-lilac hue.
Macrophyll hydrangea can be obtained in light blue or blue. To do this, some substances must be added to the soil. This can be achieved with the help of iron salts or alum.
If you are thinking about how to feed the hydrangea for its flowering in two shades at once, then you can add alum from the side where there will be no plum to the second side of the flower, if there is a slope. Thus, by turning the soil into soil with different acidity, you will achieve flowers in both blue and pinkish shades to a greater and lesser extent, and you will have an excellent idea of \u200b\u200bhow to feed the plant so that it blooms luxuriantly and multi-colored.
Do not feed this plant with ashes. Better take organics, make a solution of mullein. If there is no desire to “mess around” with solutions of alum, iron salts, ammonium or potassium sulfate, purchase fertilizers at mineral basis for plants. Those that are intended for heather, rhododendron and azaleas are suitable. Shops also sell a bluing agent. Alum, both ammonium-potassium and aluminum-potassium, should be dissolved in water. Take 8-10 units per 2 liters of liquid. The calculation is for one adult bush.
Planting and caring for hydrangeas are aimed at giving it strength for long-term flowering.
All this is possible if, when planting shoots, they do not undergo putrefactive processes. In this case, the old grandmother's method saves - a solution of manganese, but very weak. If not, replace with phytosporin or fungicide.
Large-leaved hydrangea care involves several phases. Fertilization is carried out in order to:
- giving strength to the plant in the spring (carried out at the beginning of rapid growth);
- increase in bookmarking buds, held in June;
- more long flowering and to have the strength to lay new buds for flowers next year (held in the middle of summer).
You have to stick to a few important rules. They will be discussed further:
How to water hydrangea
Does not tolerate lime impurities. It is necessary to choose water for irrigation only "soft". You can't use tap water all the time. The best way- rain collection. More simple - settled water. There is a risk of chlorosis. To soften available tap water, add an occasional drop of electrolyte. Vinegar or lemon juice available at home in the smallest doses will also work. One bush needs two buckets of water at once. But if there are short-term rains or mulching is carried out, watering is allowed to be carried out once in 30 days.
The need for pruning
This plant has a peculiarity, if cut annually, there will be no color at all. The reason is that pruning is necessary for hydrangeas only cosmetic or for the purpose of treatment. If it is carried out out of habit, the plant simply will not be able to bloom, because last year's shoots are the basis for new ones that appear in their sinuses. Old bushes are pruned to rejuvenate. This is the usual way stimulation and growth of young shoots. But it is forbidden to carry out pruning completely.
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Madame Emile Mouillere’ AGM Hydrangea is large-flowered and all its species need the safety of stems. So the first goal in caring for her is to fight freezing or arguing shoots. Only then will flowering growths appear constantly.
Inflorescences that remain for the winter must be monitored. If the owners are afraid of the occurrence of diseases under winter shelter, then they should be removed. If there is a desire that even under cover the plant will delight with flowers until spring, then prepare the Bordeaux mixture. If you process a bush with it, then until spring it will stand brightly decorated, and in spring the inflorescences can be removed. They do this without causing damage to the shoots.
Shelter in the cold
Winter is not the best "friend" for hydrangeas, especially cold ones. Prepare for this should be in the fall. Abundant watering in dry weather before the onset of cold weather is one of the guarantees that the plant will be well tolerated by the cold. Processing with a Bordeaux mixture will not only help the bush to stand blooming until spring, but also neutralize the possibility of fungi on it for several months.
To protect large-leaved hydrangea during the first night frosts, it is spudded. The height of this bush protection should reach 30 cm. From above it is covered in two layers plastic wrap, better perforated. Agrospan is suitable instead of a film. The branches of the bush bend down to the ground, strewn from the heart with dry foliage or spruce branches. A box or a not very heavy box is placed on top. In principle, the shelter created for hydrangeas is the same as for roses. The lack of resistance of these garden bushes to frost can lead to sad consequences, the plants simply will not bloom. The year is right. Special covers or agrofibres can also save and insulate the hydrangea.
Reproduction features
At home, caring for a plant involves its reproduction as well.
For hydrangeas, the following breeding methods are available:
- cuttings or layering;
- dividing the bush.
The last option can be carried out in the spring months. To do this, the gardener must see and determine the renewal buds. It is by their presence that it is necessary to divide the excavated bush. So that the plant does not get sick and tolerates reproduction more easily, crushed coal will heal those places where the division was carried out. Treatment with rooting stimulants will help each delenka to take root better. If everything went well, then by autumn shoots will appear on new bushes, which by spring will become flowering branches.
Large-leaved hydrangea can be propagated by layering. This method is loved by those who are afraid to disturb the root system. Necessary annual shoots bend down to the ground. The deeply scratched and root-treated middle part should be under the ground cover. At the same time, the top must remain above the ground. In the spring it will be a sapling, which is planted separately.
How to transplant a plant
If it is planned to plant several bushes at once, then the distance between them is not less than a meter. The first rule is sufficient volumes of pits in height, width and depth. For a small plant, these parameters will be 35 cm everywhere. For a larger plant, the size of the hole is increased accordingly. Hydrangea should be planted only in warm soil - in the spring.
In order to protect your pet, remember that the color hydrangea needs:
- moisture (which water is better and how to soften tap water is written above);
- increased acidity (periodically necessary fertilizing with iron salts);
- attention (for diseases, the best way is to alternately water with potassium nitrate and iron vitriol in solutions, actillik will protect from spider mites, from powdery mildew- fungicides or preparations and copper);
- protection (for example, in winter from rodents, so that they do not damage the bush and young shoots, do not forget to spread the remedy from unnecessary “guests” under cover).
Large-leaved hydrangea attracts with its decorative effect, for which it is loved by many flower growers.
large-leaved hydrangea At first glance, it attracts attention with its lush leaves and bright voluminous inflorescences. Despite the fact that this moisture-loving culture is a resident of the tropics, it is quite possible to grow it on your own plot or even near the entrance of a city house, because with relative unpretentiousness this color is highly decorative.
You will find the necessary information for growing large-leaved hydrangea in this article. It contains not only descriptions of popular types of flower, but also useful advice for planting and caring for this unusual and beautiful culture.
Hydrangea macrophylla
In its natural habitat (subtropics), hydrangea receives the maximum amount of moisture and light, therefore the height of some adult specimens can reach 4 meters. Naturally, it is difficult to create subtropical conditions in the open field of a temperate climate, but in our climate it is quite possible to grow a healthy and beautiful shrub. However, it should be borne in mind that the height of such flowers reaches a maximum of two meters, and only with proper care.
In addition to varieties intended for outdoor cultivation, there are also compact indoor views, whose height does not exceed 60 cm. Moreover, all varieties have one common feature: dark green oval leaves with a pointed edge.
External features of the flower
Large-leaved hydrangea fell in love with gardeners not only because of its high decorativeness, but also due to its long flowering. The first buds appear in June and do not fade until early October, and their shade can be white, cream, pale blue or pink, depending on the variety.
In the past, growing hydrangea outdoors was invariably accompanied by shelter for the winter. Now this event is optional, but only if you grow special winter-hardy varieties selectively bred.
Types of large-leaved hydrangea
There are many types and varieties of hydrangea. Among them there are both ordinary, and winter-hardy, and even remontant ones, so choosing the right one is quite difficult. As a rule, when choosing a variety, gardeners are guided by the characteristics of the soil and climate of the region of residence, as well as the expected shade of inflorescences.
Among the most popular varieties of large-leaved hydrangea are:
- Avantgarde- a large bush with voluminous inflorescences, the diameter of which can reach 30 cm. At the same time, the color of the buds can be anything, from white to blue and light green.
- Blaumeise- a fairly compact plant, since the height of adult specimens rarely exceeds 120 cm. A distinctive feature is dense inflorescences with petals different sizes(they are larger towards the edge, and smaller towards the center). The shade of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. When neutral, they are blue, but as the acidity increases, they become first lilac, and then pink. Representatives of the variety are not resistant to cold, so they must be covered for the winter.
- "Blushed Bride"- the popular name for the variety with the complex name Blushing Bride Endless Summer. The flower got its name because of its unusual feature change the color of the petals. As soon as they appear, they are painted in a uniform snow-white color, but as they open, they begin to turn pink.
The varieties listed above are traditional, so they are not resistant to cold and require mandatory shelter for the winter. However, relatively recently, quite a lot of new breeding species have been bred that have increased winter hardiness and disease resistance. These species include representatives of the group of varieties Endless Summer, Early Sensation and Red Sensation, terry varieties large-leaved hydrangea (Romance, Symphony, Tugese, Expression, etc.).
Remontant varieties Coco Blanc, White Ball, Ripple and others are considered no less popular. Them distinguishing feature in that flower buds are formed not only on the shoots of the last year, but also on young shoots. In such shrubs, the first buds appear in May or early June, and a little later inflorescences form on the shoots of the current year.
But the most unusual are blue and multi-colored varieties. A shrub with blue inflorescences can be grown on slightly acidic soil (varieties Jomari, Mini Penny, Nikko Blue, etc.), and for obtaining multi-colored inflorescences, Ramars, Magic Sunfields or Expression varieties should be preferred.
Where and how to plant
As mentioned above, hydrangea belongs to people from the subtropics, so just randomly planting it in any part of the flower bed is not the best. best idea. In order for the plant to take root, to form a lush shrub with voluminous inflorescences, you need to try to choose a site where the seedling will be comfortable.
In addition to moisture-loving, large-leaved hydrangea has some other features that relate to lighting and soil type. It is these nuances that we will pay special attention to.
Lighting
Many gardeners mistakenly believe that subtropical crops need bright light throughout the day. In fact, this point of view is not entirely correct, since such plants, including large-leaved hydrangea, prefer bright but diffused sunlight. In other words, choose a lightly shaded area for this flower, but try not to plant the hydrangea under large trees. Such plants consume a lot of moisture from the soil, and the flower simply will not have enough water.
Selection of a site for a flower
Lack of moisture and light can cause a delay in the start of flowering, or cause the inflorescences to be small. The ideal location for hydrangeas is one in which the lower part of the bush is in the shade, and the upper part is in the sun.
We select the soil
AT natural conditions hydrangea grows on the lower tier of tropical and subtropical forests, the soil in which is light, loose and has a slightly acidic reaction.
To recreate similar soil conditions at home, mix turf and leaf soil, sand, peat and humus in equal proportions. It is important that there is no excess lime in the soil, as it negatively affects the condition of the plant.
Fortunately, the sensitivity of the hydrangea to the level of soil acidity is reflected in appearance inflorescences, so you can easily determine which element is missing in your culture. For example, if the petals turn pink, this means that the soil has a slightly alkaline reaction, and blue or saturated blue inflorescences form on acidic soils.
Landing Rules
Most varieties of hydrangeas are sensitive not only to cold, but also to strong temperature changes, so you need to carefully choose the time of planting the plant in open ground.
Landing in open ground
It is best to plant in the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, the soil has warmed up and warm weather has stabilized. In addition, it is important to leave enough space for the flower to grow and develop, so you need to leave at least a meter of free space between individual seedlings.
Of the basic landing rules, it is worth highlighting:
- Hole depth: depends on seedling size. For small plants, a hole 35 cm deep will suffice. The width and length of the hole should be the same. If the plant has already grown, the depth and width of the hole is increased so that the root system of the seedling can be freely spread in the pit.
- Drainage and soil: at the bottom of each hole, it is imperative to lay a layer of drainage material. Despite the fact that hydrangea loves moisture, stagnant water at the roots can cause rot and death of the plant. After the drainage layer is laid, you can begin to fill the hole with an earthen mixture, the composition of which was given above.
- Fertilizer: during planting, it is necessary to make both mineral and organic fertilizers. They will contribute to the formation of flower buds.
After that, a seedling is installed in the hole, its root system is straightened and sprinkled with soil. Next, you need to water the soil and mulch it. A layer of mulch will retain moisture in the soil, which is extremely important when growing this crop. Peat, sawdust or needles can be used as mulch, and the layer of material must be at least 10 cm.
Care for large-leaved hydrangea
Large-leaved hydrangea is considered a relatively unpretentious crop, since it is grown not only on summer cottages but also in difficult soil and climatic urban conditions.
If all the recommendations for planting have been followed, the plant will indeed turn into a lush and sprawling shrub, but in order to improve the conditions for growing the crop, it is also necessary to provide it with some care. The main recommendations in this regard will be given below.
Watering a flower
Hydrangea is one of the crops that do not respond well to high lime content in soil or water. Therefore, the liquid for irrigation should be soft. It is best to use rainwater for this purpose, but if it is not possible to collect it, ordinary tap water can also be used, but it should settle for some time before use.
At the same time, constant watering with tap water can provoke leaf chlorosis, since even settled tap water still considered tough. Therefore, periodically you need to add a few drops of lemon juice or a little vinegar to acidify it.
As for the frequency of watering, in the absence of natural precipitation, moisture is introduced into the soil about twice a week, pouring a bucket of water under each bush. If rain is present and the mulch around the plant is moderately damp, watering can be reduced to once a month.
top dressing
It is very simple to do this: one side of the shrub needs to be fed twice a month with iron salts or potassium alum (crystals) dissolved in water. The other side of the plant can not be fed. After a while, one side of the inflorescences will turn blue or even blue color, and the second will remain soft pink.
In addition, organic fertilizers (for example, mullein solution) can be used as top dressing. It is better to make them in early spring, before the buds begin to swell, so that the plant can form strong shoots. Further top dressing is carried out in early June, when the formation of buds begins and directly during flowering. During these periods, you can use any fertilizer, both organic and mineral. The only substance that cannot be fed to hydrangea is ash.
In addition, in the first year after planting, you can periodically water the young hydrangea with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or any other liquid fungicide, since young cultures are very susceptible to stem rot.
Pruning and crown shaping
A common mistake gardeners make is to prune hydrangeas too often and too hard. In fact, this culture practically does not need this procedure. On the contrary, too much shortening of the shoots or removal of excess branches can cause a delay or lack of flowering.
plant pruning
Shortening of shoots is permissible only if they were damaged during wintering or symptoms of diseases appeared on them. This feature of hydrangea pruning is due to the fact that the plant forms new flowering shoots in the axils of last year's shoots, and if you remove them, the buds simply cannot form.
It also does not make sense to form a crown of a large-leaved hydrangea, since healthy adult specimens form a rather lush and beautiful crown even without this procedure. If the bush is old and needs rejuvenation, you can cut out only a part of the oldest shoots so that replacement branches form in their place.
Wintering
The main task when growing hydrangeas is to preserve the plant during the winter. Particular attention should be paid to the tips of the shoots that form flower buds, but more often than other parts of the plant suffer from cold.
winter shelter culture
Preparation for wintering should begin in the fall. If the autumn is dry, the plant needs to be watered intensively, since the amount of moisture in the soil will determine how successfully the plant will endure the winter. It is also advisable to spray the branches with Bordeaux liquid so that they do not rot under the covering material and become a victim of the fungus.
The first winter shelter is provided at the end of October, when the first autumn frosts begin. To do this, the bushes are spudded to a height of 30 cm, and in early November, the branches are bent to the ground, covered with dry spruce branches or leaves. You can put a box on top so that the shelter does not fly apart under gusts of wind. Then you can cover the box with burlap or agrofibre and leave it that way until spring.