Fuchsia has an attractive appearance for a long time. The plant requires soil renewal every year.

Attention! Live in one pot can not exceed 5 years.

How to transplant a flowering plant at home?

1. Before planting, it is necessary to finally determine the permanent location of the flower. After all, the plant does not tolerate movement, especially during the flowering period.

   This will end with the fact that the fuchsia will drop the buds. Plants prefer diffused light. The best option- a place on the window on the west or east side. With a lack of sunlight, it treats well artificial lighting. By the appearance of the flower, it immediately becomes clear when the lighting is not enough. Fuchsia stops blooming, and the shoots are strongly drawn out.

2. A significant role in the development is played by the size and material of the pot. For each variety, it is selected individually. For indoor flowers of standard dimensions, a flowerpot is needed with a diameter of 18-20 cm.

   It is preferable to choose flat and not deep containers. The material is clay. This is natural material which does not heat up. After all, overheating for the root system is an extremely negative phenomenon.

3. 
   Fuchsia is not picky about the choice of soil. Suitable ready-made universal primer. The second option is self-cooking.

   To do this, take in equal proportions leafy soil, peat or compost humus, sand. As a baking powder choose perlite or vermiculite. Plants will bloom profusely if bone meal is added to the soil mixture. For 1 liter of soil put 1 tablespoon of flour.

4. 
   The indoor flower needs regular air exchange, but do not leave the flower in a draft. Temperature fluctuations can adversely affect his condition.

   Fuchsia does not accept dry indoor air. Humidity limits in the room vary from 60 to 70%. You can maintain these parameters with a spray bottle, spraying water on the leaves, also near the plant. Do a similar procedure in spring and summer 1-2 times a day.

5. 
   Comfortable temperature should be at the level of + 18-24 ° С. At higher air temperatures, the flower begins to drop leaves and buds, and it may also dry out.

   AT winter period room temperature is maintained at + 5-8 ° C, for this the plant is transferred to an insulated balcony or a suitable place for this

6. 
   Water the plant should be plentiful in summer, moderately in winter. Waterlogging has negative consequences for the flower.

   Overflow can be avoided with good drainage, this must be taken care of even at the landing stage. Water must be used only soft, settled or filtered.

Process

After all the “components” necessary for successful growth are ready, you can start planting fuchsia in the ground.

1. We take a pot, lay a drainage layer 2 cm thick on the bottom.
2. Pour on top thin layer earth.
3. We plant the plant together with a clod of old earth in a flowerpot.
4. Sprinkle the root system around and on top with fresh soil mixture.
5. Moisturize with warm clean water.
6. Spray the foliage with a solution of a drug to stimulate growth, such as Epin.

Like other flowering houseplants, fuchsia requires soil enrichment with minerals.

Important! A different group of trace elements correspond to each growth phase. During the growing season, intensive growth is important N-nitrogen. During the flowering period, use preparations with a high content of K-potassium and P-phosphorus.

The fuchsia will fade, and it is recommended to take a break from bait. After 2-3 weeks, restore the process, after pinching. Fuchsia has a positive attitude towards minerals containing boron, magnesium, manganese, zinc, iron. Organo-mineral fertilizers increase the flowering period, activate growth, and increase plant resistance to diseases. Fertilize every week. Fuchsia is also fed by spraying. To do this, use a weakly concentrated solution mineral fertilizers. Thus, the substances are absorbed better.

Not bad for fuchsia preparations "Master for flowering plants", "Epin", "Peters". Dilute 1 cap in a liter of water. For spraying use 1/3 cap per liter. It is important to pay attention to the process of using fertilizers.

How to transplant in the fall at home?

With the advent of spring, the plant wakes up, renews itself, and the phase of active growth begins. All summer the flower is covered with graceful, bright inflorescences. And by the end of autumn, fuchsia looks tired, yellow foliage, part of it crumbles, flowering has stopped. Preparations for winter holidays begin (read about how to keep fuchsia in the basement and in the apartment in winter). Gradually reduce watering, stop fertilizing the soil.

Fuchsias are non-capricious plants. However, flower troubles occur as a result of improper care (read about the rules of care and the nuances of growing fuchsia at home). Considered dangerous for the plant gray rot, rust. You can fight them with special solutions of fungicides, preparations containing copper, as well as 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Not less problems indoor flower can be delivered by pests such as aphids, whiteflies, spider mites. They are located on the lower part of the leaf, feeding on the juice of the plant. At the same time, the foliage turns yellow, dries, falls off. Most effective remedy to combat them - insecticides.

- a bright representative of centenarians among flowers. A plant with a tree-like stem will live boldly for 20 years, while it will actively develop and bloom luxuriantly. During this time, fuchsia will become a neighbor, friend and family member. The main thing is to organize necessary care, create optimal conditions, regularly transplant and rejuvenate the flower.

Jan 31 2017

Fuchsia - growing and care at home

Fuchsia (Fuchsia) is a houseplant, sometimes called the "Flower of the elves." For almost 300 years, these indoor flowers have been decorating home and office rooms amateur flower growers around the world. In this article, you will read about growing fuchsia and caring for it at home. Manifold color shades just mesmerizing. In everyday life, fuchsia is not capricious, even a novice grower can grow it at home.

fuchsia has great amount hybrid forms with straight and pyramidal stems, there are ampel varieties and sprawling, hanging, climbing, in the form of bushes and bonsai. Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with beautiful flowers-lanterns. Let's tell you how to care for indoor fuchsia at home:

Temperature

A comfortable temperature for growing fuchsia at home is 18 - 22 ° C in summer and not higher than 18 ° C in winter. If the temperature remains above or below these limits for a long time, the decorative effect of fuchsia may suffer. The buds will begin to fall, the leaves will become smaller and lighter. The plant will slow down its development. There will be a risk of infection with diseases and pests.

If the temperature drops below comfortable during the active growing season of fuchsia, there will be the same effect. The plant is guided by the ambient temperature. When it is warm and light, the flower actively develops and blooms profusely, usually from spring to autumn. In late autumn and winter, when it gets cooler and there is less sunlight - the development of the fuchsia flower stops, the buds stop forming - the fuchsia prepares to rest.

Location

It is better to place flowerpots with fuchsia on the windowsills of the eastern and north side rooms. Even here, the flower must be protected, if necessary, from direct sunlight by means of blinds or curtains. On the windows of the north side in the spring, fuchsia may not have enough lighting. You will have to provide the bushes with illumination using a phyto lamp or a lamp daylight up to 12 hours a day.

On the south windows, especially in summer time, fuchsia will be too hot. It is better at this time to take the flowerpot to the garden under the trees or to the balcony, where the sun's rays will illuminate the fuchsia only early in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia feels better in partial shade. During flowering, it is desirable not to rearrange the flower from place to place and not to turn to the light in different directions. Fuchsia does not like this, and may simply drop all the buds.

Watering

Proper watering is the most important part of caring for blooming fuchsias. Many factors affect the frequency and amount of watering a flower:

• Pot Location
• Fuchsia variety
• Stage of her growth
• Soil composition
• Size and type of pot
• Weather

Without additional nutrition, fuchsia can last quite a long time, but not without water. Fuchsia should be watered regularly. Make sure that the soil is well saturated with moisture each time. The next watering should be no earlier than the top layer of soil from the previous watering has dried up. Excess water from the pan must be drained to prevent stagnation of moisture in the roots of the plant.

A flowering plant has a great need for moisture. watered in summer period often and regularly - every 3-4 days, and sometimes more often.

If the fuchsia looks drooping and the soil in the pot is damp, it's not about watering. Perhaps your beauty has overheated.

In autumn, watering is gradually reduced to once a week, and in winter it is watered no more than once or twice a month.

top dressing

You need to feed fuchsia regularly, once every two weeks. This is especially important during the active growing season, from April until autumn. For top dressing, complex fertilizers are used for decorative flowering plants. Watering with liquid fertilizers must be done on moist soil. Top dressing helps fuchsia grow green mass and form countless buds. Can also be applied foliar top dressing fuchsia on the back of the leaves.

During winter dormancy, fuchsia is not fed.

Young, newly planted fuchsia bushes do not need to be fed, as they are planted in well-prepared soil filled with all the necessary microelements and organic matter. The same rule applies when transplanting a plant into a larger pot with new nutrient soil. Feeding should be resumed, somewhere, a month after transplantation.

Air humidity and spraying

For fuchsia, air humidity in the range of 50 - 60% is comfortable. Too dry indoor air will cause yellowing and wilting of fuchsia leaves and buds. You can increase the humidity of the surrounding air using wide containers of water placed next to the fuchsia. You can also put a flower pot in a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

On hot summer days, fuchsia will be saved from the heat by regular spraying with settled water at room temperature in the morning and evening. It would be nice to bring fuchsia to Fresh air to the garden, to the shade under the trees, or at least to the balcony, where the sun's rays fall only in the morning hours. But we must remember that this must be done carefully - after all, fuchsia does not like it when it is moved from one place to another during flowering.

When spraying, try not to hit the flowers with a jet.

Landing

Plant fuchsia or, moreover, a cutting immediately in big pot it is forbidden. It is necessary to increase the size of the pot gradually. At first, the pot should not be more than 9 cm in diameter. As the roots entwine the entire clod of earth, and the need arises to transplant the plant, you can prepare a slightly larger pot. Lay on the bottom good layer expanded clay or other drainage material. Fill a layer of soil and plant a prepared bush or cutting.

The pot should be well filled with soil to prevent voids between the roots and the walls of the pot. To do this, gently shake the pot and tap on its walls, but, in no case, do not tamp with your hands. For fuchsia growth, porous soil is just as important as good drainage.

Transfer

We take out fuchsia from an old pot

Fuchsia is a fast growing plant. Therefore, it must be regularly transplanted into a suitable size pot, which is 3 - 4 cm larger than before. This is best done every spring, during the beginning of the awakening and growth of the flower.

It is better to take a ceramic pot so that it protects the root system of the plant from overheating in the summer heat. Don't forget drainage. 2 - 3 cm of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pot will protect the roots of the plant from rotting. As a substrate, it is better to take a purchased soil mixture for flowering houseplants.

You can independently prepare the soil for transplanting fuchsia. To do this, mix in equal parts leafy soil, soddy soil, humus, peat and coarse river sand. Transplant using the transshipment method: pour a little prepared soil into the pot on the drainage layer, then carefully remove the fuchsia from the old pot and place it in a new pot together with a clod of earth. Fill the voids on the sides with soil mixture.

Fuchsia after transplantation, place on a shelf with diffused lighting. Trim its stems to one-third of the length. Spray the leaves and pour the substrate with settled water until excess water appears in the pan. After a few minutes, drain excess moisture from the pan.

Feeding is not needed after transplantation for a month!

Now wait a couple of months - the abundant flowering of fuchsia is guaranteed to you!

Trimming and pinching

Fuchsia flowers appear on young shoots. In order to increase such shoots, the plant should be cut regularly, and young shoots should be pinched. Pinching - very effective method make fuchsia bloom more abundantly. With the help of pinches, they form the necessary shape, give the crown the appearance of a ball, bush or miniature bonsai tree.

Fuchsia, depending on the variety, grows to a height of three meters or more. In room conditions, it is difficult and impractical to grow such a giant. If you pinch the plant in time, it will form into a strong and beautiful bush.

It is necessary to prune indoor fuchsia twice a year: in autumn, at the end of the mass flowering of the flower (October), and in winter (in early January).

Fuchsia in the shape of a tree

During the first, autumn, pruning, you will remove all faded fuchsia branches at a height of 2 cm from sleeping buds. Carefully inspect each branch for pests, remove extra seed pods and obsolete flower stalks. If insect pests are found, cut off badly damaged parts of the flower and treat the entire plant with an insecticide.

Make the second pruning in early January for the final formation of the crown of the plant. If the fuchsia wintered in the basement or garage, the plant has already been cut off in the fall. In the spring, it remains to remove dry shoots and leaves from it.

If the plant has been in the room all winter, it must be cut off. Using a clean pruner or garden shears, remove any long and thin shoots, as they will be of little use. They will not bloom magnificently, and your bush will not become more beautiful from them.

fuchsia bonsai

If the plant is pruned periodically, it will grow in breadth instead of height. Stiff old shoots are also better to cut, as nutrients they spend, and there are almost no flowers on them. All flowers bloom only on young shoots. Soon a strong and beautiful bush will form.

If you decide to form a bonsai from fuchsia, then leave only one shoot or, conversely, several such shoots that can be twisted together so that they act as the trunk of your tree. The tops must be pinched to form a lush crown at the bonsai.

What is the best way to pinch fuchsia so as not to harm its beauty and decorativeness?

If you want to form a tree from fuchsia, pinching should be done in winter, when the life processes of the plant slow down. Remove excess shoots, leave a few on the central stem. Look what happened in the spring. If the crown of the flower is not yet formed as you would like, in the spring it is cut again.

You can cut the plant to the very stump. In this case, the fuchsia will sleep longer and bloom later, but a wide bush will form.

Fuchsia in the form of a bush

If the shoots are cut only by a third, the fuchsia will turn into a tree and can take up a lot of space.

Shoots that grow in place of old branches are pinched a couple of times as they grow. Fuchsia will then turn into a lush beauty and delight you with abundant flowering.

If young branches are pinched over the third pair of leaves, tillering will increase. To enhance the tillering effect, the overgrown branches need to be pinched again, but now near the second pair of leaves.

You decide what you will grow from fuchsia - a bush or a tree!

Keep in mind that before flowering, fuchsia takes two months to form and develop buds. Fuchsias with small simple flowers bloom earlier than plants with giant inflorescences and large double flowers.

Fuchsia winter care

Fuchsia is a perennial plant. It cannot grow and bloom from year to year without interruption. To replenish vitality, she needs rest - wintering. But care at home in winter is just as necessary as in other seasons. Usually in winter, fuchsia is at rest. From a warm, bright room, it must be transferred to a dark and cool one. For example, in a basement or garage with a temperature of 5 to 15°C. Fuchsia does not need lighting in winter. A couple of times a month indoor flower should be watered - he does not like very dry soil even during hibernation. Let him stay there until the end of January. Don't worry about the leaves falling off - you'll remove almost all of the shoots anyway. By spring, new, young ones will grow.

If you have a glazed and insulated balcony, where the temperature does not drop to minus values, a pot of fuchsia can also overwinter on the balcony. Only here she will not be able to fully rest, since the processes of her development will continue in the world. The flower will need to be looked after and regularly, but not plentifully, watered. Dry leaves and shoots must be cut off so as not to provoke the development of diseases. In winter, a weakened plant can attract the attention of pests. It should be treated with an insecticide at least once during the autumn-winter season.

If your fuchsia is in the room in winter, it will survive, but by the end of winter it will lose all its attractiveness and take on a deplorable appearance. In this case, cut the plant back to 2/3 of its length and remove any dead branches. Move the flower away from heating appliances- on a table or shelf. Keep an eye on the humidity of the surrounding air. If necessary, and in winter it is definitely necessary, increase the humidity in the room by spraying the plant warm water. Ventilate the room as often as possible. Place wide containers filled with water next to the flower. Regularly, but not too abundantly, water the soil with settled water, sometimes adding potassium permanganate. Once a month, feed the flower with a complex fertilizer for flowering plants. If these conditions are met, your fuchsia will come to life, new shoots will appear. It may even bloom in winter. But do not expect that in the spring it will quickly restore its shape and delight you with unprecedented flowering.

Reproduction by cuttings

Rooting a cutting in water is the main and most successful way to propagate fuchsia. The best time for cuttings is spring. Choose a young shoot on a fuchsia bush. The length of the cutting depends directly on the variety of fuchsia. Usually they take from 10 to 20 cm. The bottom line is that over time, fuchsia shoots harden a little. If you take an old shoot for propagation, it will also take root, but this process will take longer. The young shoot will take root faster, and will grow more actively in the future. Remove the leaves at the bottom of the shoot so that none of them come into contact with the liquid in the container prepared for rooting. Large leaves, too, cut completely or half. The stalk does not yet have its roots, and the leaves will draw all the moisture out of it, preventing the root system from forming. Place the cutting in a jar of settled water and cover with a dense translucent bag on top. After 5-10 days, roots should appear. After a couple of weeks, the cutting can be planted in a prepared (preferably ceramic) pot with a nutrient mixture and drainage at the bottom. The size of the pot should be no more than 9 cm in height.

Rooting cuttings in water

If you decide to start breeding fuchsia in the summer, keep in mind that it loves coolness and humidity. At high temperatures, the stalk placed in water can rot without rooting. We advise you to root the cutting in an air-conditioned room or with a split system.

In autumn, fuchsia prepares for a dormant period. All life support processes of the plant are slowed down. So from September to January, propagation using cuttings is best not to carry out.

The second method involves planting the cutting immediately in the prepared substrate - in, in perlite, vermiculite or sphagnum. Be sure to place planting material in a greenhouse or a container with a lid to create a greenhouse effect, since such rooting requires high humidity air. As soon as the shoots take root, the greenhouse is slightly opened, the seedling is gradually accustomed to room conditions.

A sharp change in climate can cause the shoot to lose leaves and die.

Autumn harvesting cuttings

Autumn harvesting of cuttings is the most The best way save fuchsia during the winter period. In early autumn, cut several cuttings from an adult healthy bush. They are suitable for breeding fuchsia. We take several cuttings for safety, if suddenly some of them do not survive the winter.

Cuttings should be taken 15 - 20 cm in length, depending on the variety. Store them in pots of earth in cool areas, such as garages and basements. You can also save fuchsia cuttings on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, in a bag of sawdust. Closer to spring, they are taken out, treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and put in water for rooting. (see above)

Reproduction by leaves

If it is not possible to cut a cutting suitable for propagation from a fuchsia bush, fuchsia leaves can be used for this purpose. Cut a large healthy leaf along with the cutting and bury it a centimeter in wet perlite. In greenhouse conditions with daily spraying, high humidity and a constant temperature at the base of the petiole, a miniature rosette of leaves will begin to develop. When it is strong enough, separate it from the leaf and plant it in a separate pot with a nutrient mixture (any potting mix for flowering plants will do).

Reproduction by seeds

Growing from seeds at home in the case of fuchsia is rarely used. This is only possible experienced flower growers or breeders. Sometimes, for the sake of experiment, flower growers also try to collect seeds from a plant and grow their fuchsia specimen from them. If you want to try it too, we'll show you how.

The procedure for obtaining fuchsia seeds is quite laborious, but interesting.

To begin with, exclude the possibility of self-pollination of the plant or pollination of its random insects. To do this, on a selected flower that has not yet blossomed, remove the anthers. Then, on the stigma of the pistil, on the stamens, apply the pollen of the fuchsia variety you want to grow. Now carefully put a fabric cover on the bud or wrap it with a piece of gauze and fix it with a thread. In this form, the flower will stand for several weeks until the fruit ripens.

In order not to spoil your work, it is better not to touch the flower during the ripening of the fruit!

When the fruit is ready, remove it from the stem with tweezers. Carefully cut and remove the seeds. Dry the seeds for several days before planting them in the ground or storing them. It is better to plant seeds in tall containers with a lid. You need to sow the seeds on a damp surface of the substrate (peat plus coarse sand). Do not cover the seeds, just press them down a little with your fingers. Close the lid and place the container in a well-lit warm place for germination. But not in direct sunlight! It is desirable to sow fuchsia in early spring. The lack of lighting needs to be filled with additional lighting fluorescent lamps. The seed germination temperature should be maintained between 18 - 22 °C. Don't forget to ventilate your greenhouse. If necessary, moisten the soil in the container with settled water using a fine spray bottle. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks. Now the lid can be opened more often and longer - let the young bushes get used to room conditions. Make sure that the substrate does not dry out, the lighting is diffused and at least 12 hours. per day, the temperature should be comfortable.

After one and a half to two months, young fuchsia bushes need to be dived. Before transplanting plants, the substrate in the container is well watered. Seedlings are taken out along with the ground at the root system, one at a time, and planted in a separate pot. Abundantly watered. The land can be used purchased for flowering plants, or you can prepare it yourself from equal parts of sod and leaf soil, humus, peat and coarse sand. Remove pots with young growth from sunlight to shade - let them get used to new conditions gradually. After a couple of weeks, pots with young fuchsias can be placed in a permanent place prepared for them. Further care consists in regular watering, good lighting, comfortable temperature. In a month, not earlier, you can start to feed little by little with complex fertilizers for flowering plants. No more than once every 2 weeks. Don't forget to shape the crown of your flower. If you want it to be lush, strong and not too high, pinch its top.

Diseases

Fuchsia is rarely affected by diseases and insect pests. The main problems arise with careless care of the plant. We will introduce you to some of the problems that arise when growing fuchsia at home.

Fuchsia dropped buds. Likely causes:

• insufficient or excessive watering;
• changing the pot flowering plant to a new place;
• insufficient lighting;
• too high air temperature;
• lack of nutrition in the soil.

Why fuchsia sheds leaves. Likely causes:

• too dry air in the room;
• high air temperature;
• lack of moisture in the soil;
• lack of nutrition in the soil.

Fuchsia has yellowed leaves. Likely causes:

• waterlogging of the soil (water the flower correctly, excess water must be drained from the pan. During the dormant period, reduce watering to a minimum).

appeared on fuchsia leaves dark spots and small drops of dew. Likely causes:

• too high humidity in the room (it is necessary to reduce the humidity, ventilate the room more often, spray fuchsia with special preparations).

Fuchsia does not bloom. The reasons may be the following:

• unfavorable conditions during hibernation;
• late circumcision or not untimely pinching of fuchsia;
• the plant is in direct sunlight;
• little light (shoots will stretch out, be thin and frail, buds will be weak or not formed at all).
• the pot is too big for the flower (fuchsia will bloom when its roots completely cover the entire earth in the pot. If the flower is still small and the pot is too large, most likely you will not see flowers this year);
• the soil in the pot is poor and too light (such land is quickly compacted from watering, it has few useful elements. root system located along the edges of the pot, cannot braid the entire earthen lump in the center and suffers greatly from this);
• the soil is too heavy, the roots develop poorly or completely stop developing (the plant does not receive moisture and nutrition, the soil turns sour, the roots rot);
• the flower was overfed with nitrogen fertilizers (the green mass will begin to increase to the detriment of flowering. Until the fuchsia has mastered all the excess supply nitrogen fertilizers- it won't bloom.

Pests

whitefly

If this problem occurs, you will have to solve it with the help of folk remedies or chemicals, insecticides. It is necessary to spray the affected plants several times, with interruptions of 5 to 7 days, until the fuchsia is completely rid of sucking insects.

Monitor your plants, inspect them regularly for diseases and pests, and take action in time.

Video: fuchsia care

Conclusion

Bright, varied and multi-colored, indoor fuchsias are precious pieces in the collection of any amateur florist. If you have not yet purchased this flower and doubt your abilities as a grower, then this is in vain. Growing fuchsia is within the power of even a novice grower. Your time, knowledge and cost of caring for her at home will not be wasted. Fuchsia will thank you with fabulous flowering for many years!

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In nature, fuchsia has the appearance of a shrub with flexible branches . Its leaves are green and slightly reddish. They are oval in shape and have pointed ends. Flowering is abundant and long. Flowers of a drooping type, consist of a bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent edges. The calyx lobes are longer than the petals. Color may be as follows:

• pink;
• white;
• red;
• orange;
• cream;
• purple;
• Violet.

ATTENTION: There are also fuchsia flowers, which have 3 different shades. The fruit is an edible berry.

Fuchsia is so plastic that it can be given any shape: ampelous, bushy, pyramidal, or grow a standard tree. In addition, different varieties of plants bloom at different times. This allows growers to create a true collection of fuchsias that will bloom from early spring to late autumn.

Leaf propagation is carried out in spring - in February-March or in autumn - August or September. You can breed in the summer, but fuchsia does not tolerate hot climates, so that there is a danger of planting material rotting.

For growing fuchsia at home, it is preferable to use a ceramic and roomy pot. This will keep the sensitive roots of the plant from overheating, and the ceramic pot never overheats, which cannot be said about plastic ones. For rooting, it is necessary to choose an air- and water-permeable substrate. You can cook it yourself. It's easy to do: combine components such as sphagnum moss, vermiculite and high-moor peat, taken in a ratio of 2:3:1.

How is it propagated by leaves?

Reproduction will require large leaves taken from healthy flower . They must have a petiole and part of the shoot with an axillary bud. It is he who will need to be buried in the ground.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Put the prepared soil in a pot. Moisturize her.
2. Make a recess in the middle, carefully place the planting material in it. Sprinkle a little earth. It is not necessary to compact the soil.
3. Cover the container with foil to create a greenhouse effect. Periodically tear off the film so that the plant is ventilated.
4. If the soil is dry, then it can be watered.

Watch a video about propagating fuchsia with a leaf:

What conditions need to be created?

In order for the planting material to take root, it has to create suitable conditions.:

• Place the container in a well-lit place, but direct sunlight should not fall on the leaf.
• The temperature regime in the room should be in the range of 20-24 degrees Celsius.
• Excessive soil moisture is not permissible, but it should not dry out either.
• The optimal humidity remains 80-90%. To maintain it, a plastic film is needed. Remove it only after the plant begins to grow.

After 15-20 days, roots will begin to grow. From this moment on, open the film for the whole day, and close it at night. After 1.5 months, plant rooted leaves in a permanent place in wider pots. Soon a real majestic fuchsia will grow from one leaf.

Aftercare

In terms of care, fuchsia is picky. It is very easy to take care of her. As for watering, then produce it as the topsoil dries. In winter, moisture should be moderate. Use only settled water at room temperature. It is much more useful and softer. Reduce watering at the end of the growing season. For the period of October-November, stop moistening completely. At low temperatures, reduce watering fuchsia to 1-2 times a month.

During the growth of the plant, it is useful to spray it with a spray bottle. Do this in the morning and evening. To humidify the air, place a small cup with pebbles filled with water near the container with the flower. In autumn and spring, an excess of moisture is not recommended, so stop spraying.

Details about caring for fuchsia at home and others important points we talked about growing a flower in.

top dressing

If the flower grows in open field, then it is necessary to apply biofertilizer. And for indoor plants, any fertilizer intended for feeding indoor plants is suitable. Apply fertilizer once a week. Start doing this at the end of March. Fuchsia does not need to be fertilized in winter.

Possible diseases and pests of the plant

At proper cultivation fuchsia is not afraid of any diseases (read about the rules for growing fuchsia at home, and from you will learn about the intricacies of caring for a flower in the garden). But if the agrotechnical rules are violated, the following problems arise:

1. When the plant is exposed to direct sunlight, spots form on the leaves. You can save a flower if you move it to another place.
2. When the soil is waterlogged, root rot occurs. Save the plant will not work.
3. The yellowing of the leaves is the result of soil depletion, lack of magnesium and iron. To fight, use spraying with a solution of magnesium sulfate, preparations containing iron. Yellowing can occur as a result of improper watering.

   ADVICE: If the plant is affected by a fungus, then use fungicides.

Fuchsia can be attacked by pests such as:

• weevil;
• mite;
• whitefly.

Conclusion

Reproduction of fuchsia is a responsible process. In this case, errors are not allowed. It is necessary to pay due attention to the preparatory stage and subsequent care of the flower. This will allow you to grow a full-fledged flower that will delight you with lush and long flowering.

Experienced flower growers are probably familiar with a plant such as fuchsia. Of the features of this flower, it is worth highlighting the elegant appearance, as well as a long flowering period. However, for many, this plant is interesting for its unpretentiousness, so if you have planting material, you can even grow a fuchsia, ready to please the owner with bright flowers, even without special knowledge.

Description, main varieties and types

Depending on the features, fuchsia may take the form ampelous plant, shrub or small tree. In development forms flexible shoots, which provide a falling crown. The leaves have small size and reach a length of 5 cm, the characteristic color is bright green, oval in shape, there is a point at the end.

Fuchsia may have flowers different shades ranging from white and pink to blue and purple. Among them there are also quite amazing in their form: in the form of bells or dancing ballerinas. Such a pronounced decorative effect is explained unusual structure flower. The petals are formed from a tubular corolla and, at the stage of full disclosure, form fluffy skirts that resemble a group of dancers. The long stamens that complement them are very similar to slender legs dressed in pointe shoes.

Popular varieties

The wide species diversity of this plant did not go unnoticed by breeders, and subsequently they served as the basis for the development of new varieties and hybrids. For home growing intended mainly for hybrid forms. Depending on growth distinguish the following types of fuchsias:

• bush. They have even shoots that are turned up;
• ampelous. They form flexible stems that are drooping;
• ampel-bush. To give them a characteristic shape, a support is needed so that long stems can be tied to it.

Within the framework of bush fuchsias, the following varieties can be distinguished, which are most often used for growing in outdoor containers:

Many flower growers often choose to grow at home and ampel varieties of fuchsia. The latter attract the attention of curly shoots hanging from hanging baskets and planters. The most popular of them are the following:

• Hollis Beauty. During flowering, double white-pink flowers are formed;
• Prince of Peace. This variety is decorated with flowers formed by white sepals and a red skirt;
• Blue Angel. The originality of this variety is given by flowers that have a lilac-violet color, which is effectively complemented by white sepals;
• Imperial Crown. It forms flowers of scarlet color, having an elongated shape, which are presented in the form of brushes.

Plant care at home

The habitual habitat of this plant is South America and New Zealand where it grows in conditions of high humidity. Accordingly, the same care should be provided for fuchsias in a city apartment, for which regular spraying is necessary. Mandatory for the normal development of perennials is transplanting and pruning. Fuchsia is sensitive to lighting, so moving the flower pot to another place or even turning it can greatly affect its development.

If the fuchsia was purchased in a pot with enough space for growth, then a transplant is not required. If everything indicates the opposite, then it is recommended to find more spacious container. It is best to transplant fuchsia into a light container. Due to the improved reflective ability of such a container, the plant will be protected from overheating.

In the future, plant transplantation should be carried out annually. Before performing this operation, preparatory measures must be carried out:

• preventive and stimulating pruning. Healthy shoots are cut off by one third, and old, dry and too elongated ones must be completely removed;
• checking the condition of the roots. According to its results, you can understand whether the plant has signs of disease or decay. Identified affected areas must be cut to healthy tissue;
• laying drainage in a container prepared for transplantation. It is recommended that it take up at least 1/5 of the height of the pot.

After landing, fuchsia must water well and spray. Feeding can be carried out only three weeks after transplantation.

Soil composition and soil fertilizers

Fuchsia can grow in almost any soil. Therefore, before transplanting, the pot can be filled with a universal earthen mixture for indoor plants. However, the plant will feel best in the soil of a loose structure, for which it does not hurt to add sand, peat or ash to it. If you plan to independently prepare the soil mixture for transplantation, then you can include the following components:

• leafy soil, peat, sand (in ratios 3:2:1);
• sod land, humus, peat, compost (2:1:1:1).

When the plant begins to grow after transplantation, as well as during flowering, it is necessary to fertilize once a week with mineral complex fertilizers. These can be drugs such as Kemir, Effekton, Pokon for geraniums. For the first time, fertilizers are applied to the soil in March. Gradually increase their number. With the approach of autumn, the amount of fertilizers applied is reduced, and in winter they must be completely eliminated.

pruning fuchsia

It is necessary to prune fuchsia ampelous during the entire growing season. Without it, it is impossible to create favorable conditions for normal growth and abundant flowering. First time fuchsia needed pinch after rooting the cutting. In the future, it should be pruned throughout the spring before entering the flowering phase. In summer, it is necessary to pay attention to the longest shoots, which will begin to bloom in autumn.

To create a beautiful crown, it is necessary to prune the side shoots located above every 2-4 pair of leaves. As a result of this procedure, the plant will be able to acquire a standard form. But this is only possible if there is a support to which the central shoot will have to be tied, while the side branches must be removed.

Watering and lighting

The plant grows well and develops if it is watered in moderation. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to maintain optimal humidity earth in a pot, but the water in it should not stagnate. When leaving after the next watering, you must wait 15 minutes, and then drain the rest of the water formed in the pallet. With the onset of autumn, the number of waterings is reduced to 1-2 times a month. In winter, fuchsia does not need to be watered.

To create the most favorable conditions for plant development, it is desirable to maintain elevated air humidity conditions. To do this, in addition to watering, it is necessary to spray the leaves. Effective measure is to place a container filled with water near the pot.

Fuchsia loves moderate thermal conditions, and also responds well to diffused lighting. However, she does not tolerate shading. It is advisable to place the flower pot on a balcony or on the west or east side, where it will be provided with sunlight in the mornings or evenings.

Optimum temperature

In order for fuchsia not only to grow well, but also to form many inflorescences, it needs to be provided corresponding temperature regime . Favorable for her is the temperature + 20 .. + 22 degrees Celsius during the day and + 16 ... + 18 degrees Celsius at night. If the ambient temperature is higher than recommended, then the gardener runs the risk of not waiting for flowering, and may also face such an unpleasant phenomenon as dropping leaves. On especially hot days, the plant needs additional moisture, for which it is recommended to spray with settled cool water.

Fuchsia begins to feel bad even when good care if the temperature does not reach the recommended level. Therefore, in winter, to protect against cold weather, it is recommended to place a foam plastic or a wooden plank under the pot.

If you want this perennial to produce many flowers every season, then you need to provide it with proper care. If such a need arises, you can get from it and propagating material. There are many opportunities for this, since young plants can be obtained both from seeds and from cuttings and leaves.

Reproduction by seeds

If you decide to get new fuchsia seedlings from seeds at home, then keep in mind that this process will take a lot of time and effort. First of all, you need to stock up on quality seeds. To do this, you need to constantly monitor the state of the mother plant, preventing self-pollination of its flower. This can be done through the following activities:

• removal of anthers from a newly opened flower;
• transfer of pollen from the paternal plant on the stigma;
• protection of flowers after pollination by covering with a cloth or paper bag.

After a couple of weeks, the fruit reaches the stage of maturity. After opening it, the seeds are taken out and allowed to dry for several days. For planting use shallow containers filled with a moist substrate. Seeds should be placed on the surface of the soil.

After sowing, the bowls with seeds must be transferred to the greenhouse, where they must be created. optimum temperature and good lighting. After 10-15 days there is seed germination. After another 1.5 months, the moment comes for picking seedlings. Subsequently, young shoots are hardened, for which they need to be taken out to fresh air for some time. For the first time, hardening should be small - no more than 15 minutes, but in the future, the residence time of the seedlings is increased. After another two months, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots.

Conclusion

Fuchsia is deservedly popular among many flower growers. Such an increased interest in it is associated primarily with unpretentiousness. Not to mention the fact that it blooms very profusely, and if necessary, it can be propagated without much difficulty. However, as in the case of other indoor plants, fuchsia can be propagated at home only if the necessary measures are taken. Therefore, if you prepare the flower itself in an appropriate way, select the soil that is optimal in composition, and also create favorable conditions for rooting and growth, then you can count on the fact that fuchsia will quickly take root and begin to bloom profusely very soon.

fuchsia flower

Most flower designers unanimously agree that the most striking plant that can be grown from seed at home is fuchsia. Many people like this tree rich color palette, which is demonstrated by its flowers, which differ in the original form. She feels great not only in the garden, but also on the balcony, besides, she is easy to care for. Therefore, if you get information about the nuances of growing it, then the gardener will have a reason to rejoice, because he will be able to enjoy the view of a plant grown by his own hands.

Fuchsia is one of the brightest representatives of evergreens. perennial shrubs, which belong to the Cyprus family. To date about 100 species are known, which are found in the forests of New Zealand, Central and South America. Due to the high interest of gardeners in this flower, a situation has developed that at the moment tens of thousands are available for them. different varieties and fuchsia hybrids, the flowers of which differ in a variety of shapes and colors.

For the first time the world got acquainted with this plant when information about the South American fuchsia trefoil appeared. The king of Spain, for whom this plant was the first to see this flower, received a high honor. was a gift from the conquistadors. Of the features of fuchsia, it is worth highlighting unusually narrow long flowers. This plant, which is easy to grow from seeds, has a property characteristic of all species of its family - unpretentiousness. Therefore, just one shoot is enough to get into the flower bed, and at the end of the season a lush flowering bush will grow out of it.

It is also important that it is very easy to care for it, since for this you only need to monitor the soil moisture, starting with sowing seeds in it. Fuchsia is not left in the ground for the winter, so in the fall it is dug up, cut off and sent to a temporary container, which is placed in the basement at a temperature of + 5-8 degrees. With the onset of spring, when the last wave of frosts has passed, the flower is again returned to the flower bed.

Many original types of fuchsia have a very interesting color. It is formed by a mixture of purple, scarlet and brick tones, which is a separate shade, which is the characteristic color of fuchsia.

The plant is very different original form of flowers: they have cups and a corolla with bent edges. If you look closely at the calyx, you can see how long stamens protrude from it, while the petals are always shorter than the calyx. Fuchsia is distinguished by a large species diversity of colors: they can have ordinary and terry, plain, as well as two-color and three-color shades.

It is also noteworthy that after flowering, edible fruits begin to form on long petioles. Moreover, they not only have a pleasant sweet and sour taste, but can also be used for medicinal purposes. These berries can often be found on the table of South American Indians, as they are often used as a seasoning for meat dishes.

Depending on the shape of the plant divided into shrubs and trees. Their leaves can also vary: opposite, oval, pointed. Many often have jagged edges. As a rule, they do not differ in tone, since it is always the same - dark green. However, for recent times many new varieties of fuchsia have appeared, having a variegated color.

Growing fuchsia from seeds at home

Proper plant care at home involves taking into account the main biological features of fuchsia.

Temperature regime

Extreme heat has a negative effect on plants. Therefore, it is best if the temperature does not rise above +18-24 degrees. Those owners who grow fuchsia at home will have to work hard to create favorable conditions in the summer. It is not recommended to constantly leave the flower in the sun. Fuchsia responds positively to spraying, but it must be carried out when the plant is not exposed to direct sunlight. The most favorable moment for this procedure is the time after sunset. This procedure is useful for plants that are grown in the room.

In winter, for fuchsia, it is necessary to create slightly different conditions that will correspond to its current state. At rest, the optimum temperature for the plant will be in the range of + 5-12 degrees. At this time, fuchsia is watered much less frequently, but you need to make sure that the earthen coma does not dry out. If in winter time in the room where the fuchsia was located, warmer conditions were maintained than necessary, then it is possible that for the next season the owner will not be able to wait for it to bloom.

Care during the flowering period

When the plant begins to leave the dormant state, then in relation to it they begin to carry out the following activities:

Usually fuchsias can please the owner with their flowering. for many years. However, this is only possible if he provides proper care for the plants. In this case, you can enjoy the view of fuchsia flowers up to 50 years. However, the gardener cannot avoid trouble if he is going to grow bush and ampelous fuchsia, since they do not retain their attractive crown shape for long. To avoid this, it is recommended to update every 4-5 years. There will be no particular problems with this, given that they can be easily propagated using green cuttings.

If the gardener wants to achieve lush and long flowering from fuchsia, then he must feed the plants regularly. This operation must be carried out once a week, using liquid fertilizers.

Especially useful are special dressings for fuchsia. Fertilizers can be applied up to the first opening of flowers. For this, a solution is prepared, for which 1/3 portion of the fertilizer is diluted in water.

What pests and diseases are typical for fuchsia?

Fuchsias, which are grown from seeds at home, most often get sick due to damage. spider mite and whitefly. Having noticed the first signs of the disease, the following measures are taken: the flower must be treated with a warm shower with a temperature of + 36-38 degrees, after which it must be allowed to dry.

Disease control

In the event that this procedure was ineffective, you will have to use chemicals. To do this, you can take compositions such as Aktara, Agravertin or Fitoverm. Solutions are prepared from them, which are sprayed in three doses on the crown of the plant.

In most cases, fuchsia is affected by diseases such as black leg, as well as rust on the leaves.

If there are clear signs of a progressive disease, then it is better to get rid of the plants. With regard to the substrate, it is recommended to carry out the treatment using bright pink potassium permanganate solution.

Conclusion

Fuchsia is one of the favorite plants of flower growers that are grown from seeds at home. She attracts many with ease of care and unusual decorative properties. Naturally, in order to get a beautifully flowering fuchsia, you need to get acquainted with the features of its cultivation. It is important not only to stock up on seeds, prepare a high-quality soil mixture for the plant, but also create favorable conditions for growth so that fuchsia can please the gardener with its flowering. But because of natural conditions cultivation is also important take care of the protection against diseases. Otherwise, one day this flower will wither and die.