All phalaenopsis are elitist. They grow in nature on large trees, plant stumps as a support. The flower has one stem, no branching. Its height reaches 10-100 cm. Orchid leaves grow slowly, as does the stem. In a year, only a few green leaves may appear. They are formed during the flowering period. It lasts 3 months. At first, the upper buds open, while the lower buds are still being formed.
How are diseases different from pests?
Reference. Phalaenopsis disease is a common phenomenon, the main cause of which improper care. Diseases can be fungal, viral, and rot is also common.
Each of them has its own symptoms that allow them to be distinguished from. Most often, when a flower is affected by a disease, the leaves darken almost instantly, dry out and fall off (you can learn more about leaf diseases). And when the plant was visited by insects, then this whole process occurs gradually: the leaves become stained, slowly fade, and only then fall off. This allows the grower to react in time and save the flower.
The most common diseases of phalaenopsis include:
What are the reasons?
The following reasons can affect the development of the disease in an orchid:
- Violation of the light regime. Phalaenopsis belongs to the shade-tolerant types of orchids. They feel comfortable on windowsills facing north.
Note! The sun's rays are dangerous for them, and if they directly penetrate the leaves, thermal burns can develop. They do not cause significant harm to the plant, but leave behind ugly spots.
- Wrong watering. The orchid prefers high humidity, but reacts negatively to constant watering. As a result, rot and leaf fall may occur.
- Low temperature. At home, the orchid has little chance of freezing. Most often this happens during the transportation of her from the store or moving. Affected areas become covered with white spots and die off. A similar effect can occur when spraying a plant at low temperatures and as a result of poor ventilation.
How to determine what happened?
The difficulty in making a correct diagnosis is that some external signs are similar to the symptoms of the influence of pests. So that to make a final diagnosis, you will have to carefully examine the flower.
If not only the symptoms of the lesion were found on it, but also insects, then most likely they are the cause of the problem. In addition, you need to know the main symptoms of common orchid diseases. Then it will be possible to understand for sure whether it is a pest or a disease.
What parts of the plant spoil?
Most often, the defeat is applied to the leaves, roots and stem of the plant. The leaf plate begins to turn yellow, wither and dry out. The stem is darkening and rotting. The root system is most often affected by rot, as a result of which its roots rot and die (read how to care for orchid roots).
Characteristics of problems, photos and treatment
View photos of each disease and its description.
This is fungal disease, which is formed due to high humidity and stagnant water. As a result, burns form on the leaves of the plant.
To combat the disease, it is necessary to remove all affected areas to healthy tissue., and then sprinkle them with ash. If the lesion is massive, then the plant will have to be completely treated with Mikosan preparations. Install the orchid in a dry room and constantly drain the water from the pan.
The main reason for the development of the disease is care errors. The defeat is applied to the leaves of the plant.
To combat the disease, cut off diseased areas, sprinkle cut areas with activated charcoal powder. A 20% alcohol solution can be used for disinfection. If the lesion is too extensive, use Mikosan, Skor or Ridomil.
High humidity and temperature can affect this disease. You can recognize the disease by a whitish coating on the leaves.
When the first signs are found, water the orchid thoroughly, and after 2 hours, treat it with a solution of colloidal sulfur using a spray bottle. You can also use Fitosporin. They spray the leaves 3-4 times with an interval of 10 days.
You can use folk remedies, for example, a soap and soda solution. To prepare it, take 25 g of soda, 5 g liquid soap, 5 l hot water. Dissolve baking soda in water first, then add soap. As soon as the solution has cooled, then spray every 7-10 days.
This disease affects the leaves of the orchid, which become sticky (read about sticky leaves in phalaenopsis). The resulting black coating does not allow the leaves to receive sunlight in the required amount, so that the plant weakens.
For treatment, the drug Mikosan, Ridomil, Topsin-M, Skor is used. Folk remedies are powerless here.
Rot
Black
She is one of the most common. The first manifestations of the disease are observed 12 hours after the lesion. Young shoots are most often affected. They turn black and become covered with a sticky coating.
Important! If black rot is found, it is necessary to isolate the diseased plant from the healthy one.
The transmission of a harmful fungus occurs by contact, so the treatment is difficult. Its essence is that you need to remove the affected areas, and treat the cut points with a defect of cinnamon or sulfur. After they dry, treat them with a fungicide.
Watch a video on how to cure Phalaenopsis from a fungal infection on the neck:
Root
This is a bacterial disease that is formed at high humidity and temperature. The orchids begin to darken and rot the roots. At the same time, the leaves acquire a specific brown tint.
Resuscitation of the roots should begin with treating the plant with a fungicide solution and removing the affected areas. The soil is also processed. To do this, use Fundazol or Topsin. Processing should be carried out at least 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks.
We talked about the treatment of this root disease, take a look at how this problem looks in the photo:
Gray
This is the disease is the result of a violation of the rules of care. With the development of gray rot, spots appear on the flowers. They are dark in color, and then covered with a gray coating.
Note! If left untreated, the plant will weaken and die.
Treatment is reduced to the removal of affected areas and the treatment of fungicides. If after the first treatment there is no positive result, then a similar drug cannot be used, since the gray rot pathogen has acquired resistance to it. But when this process is extended to the entire sheet plate, urgent measures must be taken. Help your orchid if it gets sick and save it from death.
How to save?
Here detailed plan how to reanimate an orchid yourself:
- Rinse the roots, remove the affected.
- Prepare a container, pour expanded clay on the bottom, and carefully steamed and cleaned sphagnum on top.
- Moisten the mixture well.
- Lay a leaf rosette and until the plant grows roots 3-5 cm long, keep it under cover.
- For resuscitation of an orchid, it is necessary to observe following conditions: temperature 22-28 degrees, humidity - 70-100%. Lighting should be 12-14 hours a day.
To make the orchid bloom and delight for a long time bright colors, and the disease never struck her, the grower will have to observe the following preventive measures:
Phalaenopsis is a type of orchid that complete care disease resistant. But you should not relax. The florist should regularly inspect the plant, and if abnormalities are found, immediately begin treatment.
Phalaenopsis is the most popular orchid hybrid. He is distinguished by his capriciousness, prone to negative influence many diseases susceptible to pests.
Therefore, in addition to proper care for him, you need to know how to deal with pests and "sores". Let's deal with these questions in more detail.
Phalaenopsis Orchid Diseases
There can be a lot of diseases in this orchid. We list only the main ones, and find out how they manifest themselves.
powdery mildew
Refers to fungal infections. It manifests itself in the form of plaque on sheet plates. It may be white or purple color. The appearance of the flower changes as if it had been sprinkled with white powder.
The disease is very insidious, and can completely kill the plant. The main reason for its manifestation is the increased temperature and humidity of the air in the room, which provoke the “steaming” of the flower.
For prevention purposes, it is necessary to systematically spray the flower with Fitosporin. If the flower is already sick, then it is necessary to apply the Speed spray, or mixtures based on colloidal sulfur.
spotting
It is also bacterial in nature. Its main symptoms are a change in the color of the leaves to darker, sometimes yellow. Ulcers appear on them, which constantly secrete fluid. Leaves can also lose their elasticity and fall off.
The treatment of this ailment consists in removing the diseased leaf or treating the ulcer with iodine solutions.
Anthracnose
A very common disease. It appears, as a rule, on sheet plates. First, small round spots form on them, which gradually begin to blacken. After a while, a yellow coating appears on these spots.
The cause of the disease is increased air humidity, as well as the accumulation of liquid in the leaf plates.
Rust
fungal infection. Attacks leaves. The most "sensitive" to this disease are weak and young flowers. Rust begins to “act” from the inside of the leaf and gradually moves outward in the form of red spots. Causes a fungal infection.
Rust control methods are quite simple - all affected leaves must be treated with alcohol, and then sprayed with agents such as Skor, Mikasan or Ritomil.
Fusarium, root, gray and brown rot
Gray rot is a frequent "companion" of Phalaenopsis. This disease manifests itself in the form of gray spots on the sheets, which can have a wide variety of shapes. From above such spots are fluffy. The main reasons for the appearance of such rot are the same high humidity air.
Almost any rot can be dealt with by systematically spraying the plant with Kendal. It operates in such a way that long time protects the plant from diseases, and successfully copes with rot.
Root rot appears on those flowers that are already susceptible to the negative effects of various fungi and bacteria. To get rid of the problem, you need to treat the affected leaf with colloidal sulfur.
Another common Phalaenopsis disease is Fusarium rot. Leaf plates begin to turn yellow and curl. The color of such rot has gray shade. It is necessary to treat with a 0.3% solution of Fundazol.
Brown rot is manifested by bright brown "rashes" on the sheets. You can fight it with the same methods as in the previous cases.
Sooty mushrooms
Can affect young and weak flowers that are in poorly ventilated areas with high humidity. But, main reason, according to which the fungus arises - pests (aphids, whiteflies, etc.).
Sooty fungi clog the pores of the plant, disrupt the metabolic processes in its system. If this infection spreads to the entire "organism" of the flower, then this can lead to its death.
Treatment of Phalaenopsis Orchid Diseases
The main cause of Phalaenopsis diseases is high humidity and improper care. And, if you notice the manifestations of any "sores", then most likely the plant will die (if no action is taken).
What to do in case of a flower disease:
These measures will be quite enough to cure the flower.
Phalaenopsis orchid pests
Let's now figure out what pests Phalaenopsis has and how to deal with them.
Aphid
Aphids can be: gray, green, black and yellow. "Settles" on thin sprouts and peduncles. It can get on the plant while still in the store, or fly through the window. He builds his "farm" on the flower.
Aphids can eat the roots of Phalaenopsis, which further leads to the complete death of the plant. You can get rid of the pest with the help of fungicides.
whiteflies
Outwardly similar to white fluffy butterflies. They eat the stems, flowers, and leaves of the plant, causing it to turn yellow. Do not affect plants with thick and dense leaves.
Whiteflies lay their larvae yellow color, which can be located both on the leaves of the flower, and under them, less often - on the stems.
thrips
Small pests 2-5 mm. in length, they look like oblong “sticks”, which have 2 pairs of wings, and move very quickly. Thrips, as soon as they sit on a plant, immediately try to hide in it, therefore, they can only be detected at night, and only with the help of a flashlight.
They manifest themselves as small black dots on the sheets, they can create some kind of "roots" that look like various plexuses. These insects lay their eggs in the tissue of the leaf plate, therefore, it is very difficult to get rid of them.
Shchitovki
Size 1-2 mm., Scale insects densely plant the leaves of the flower, and remain there for a long time, up to several months. Females have neither legs nor wings, and when eating plants, they secrete a viscous liquid.
Most often, scale insects settle on the plant in whole groups, and if you remove the pest from the leaf, then a kind of wound will remain on it, which must be sprinkled with coal or cinnamon.
Ticks
On an orchid, you can "meet" several types of ticks. The most difficult thing is to determine if the color has become infected at home or even in the store. The main pests of this family practically do not differ from each other, but the symptoms of their "presence" are the same, and appear as white dots on the leaves.
The result - the flowers of the plant begin to curl, fall off, a cobweb becomes noticeable on them. The mites themselves can be yellow or red, while their larvae are greenish and almost invisible.
Most often on Phalaenopsis you can find: an ordinary mite, a false spider mite and a flat mite. The bodies of all these types are divided into 3 parts: middle, back and front.
There is also a root mite, which is the roots of the flower. It penetrates inside the plant, making hollow threads from the roots. As a result, the plant dies completely. The color of such a tick is yellow or white, the shape is oval.
The shell mite resembles a pea, there is organic matter of the plant. You can find it on leaf plates, bulbs and on the walls near the flower. Spawns larvae gray color, you can find it on the plant without problems.
Mealybug
Reminds me of a light fluffy lump. If you look closely, you can see that he has antennae, and the body is ribbed, adapted for rapid movement through the plant.
The mealybug is the most dangerous for the plant, since its presence at the initial pores is practically not manifested in any way. And when the leaves are already starting to turn yellow, then, most likely, the plant can no longer be saved.
This pest is brought along with dust, wind, etc. Often climbs onto Phalaenopsis from another infected plant. Also, it can be in the soil where the flower is planted.
Developing and colonizing, pests begin to lay eggs in prominent places of the flower, but always in the shade. At first, young individuals will stick together, and then they will begin to crawl away, looking for new places to "settle".
Phalaenopsis Orchid Pest Control Methods
After acquiring a flower, you should not immediately put it on the windowsill. Especially, near other flowers or plants, since pests may already be on them, or they are already “sick”.
What are the flowering problems?
Phalaenopsis is most often purchased precisely because of its simply amazing flowering. But, bad light and insufficient ventilation of the room can cause the flowers to become lethargic.
If spots of any color appear on the sheets, then this can also indicate stuffiness in the room, or too low a temperature. If there is no color at all, the reason lies in the wrong temperature.
There may be no color due to diseases of the peduncles. The most common of them:
- Green plaque. The reason is high humidity, the formation of algae. Such a plaque must be removed with gauze dipped in water, or potassium permanganate, soapy water;
- Cracks. Arise due to inaccurate movement of the flower;
- Yellowing and wilting of leaves. Reasons - improper watering, too frequent treatment of the flower with Fundazol;
- Bacterial rot. It is removed by the complete removal of the affected leaf plates. Fungicides can be used;
- viral activity. It appears in the form of dark spots, stripes and strokes. Such a plant must be destroyed;
- Sun burns. They are "treated" by moving the flower to a darker place, and all wilted flowers are removed.
Prevention and care at home
- Make sure that there are no spots or any other “pathologies” on the leaves and flowers;
- Protect the plant from mechanical damage, shaking, etc.;
- If the stem or flower is broken, the cut point must be disinfected;
- Do not allow too much moisture or dryness of the soil;
- It is important to provide Phalaenopsis proper lighting and temperature regime;
- Systematically treat the plant with special fertilizers.
Today the orchid is not so rare plant in indoor flower garden. However, it is susceptible to various diseases and requires special care. Unfortunately, to find any full information about the content of the flower, orchid diseases and their treatment is difficult.
Therefore, we have tried to cover the common problems and difficulties of growing an orchid.
Problems with orchid flowering, how to fix them
This is indoor plant quite demanding and capricious. Therefore, if you just brought it home after purchase and it began to wither, this is not unusual. Just gotta pick it up appropriate place and take proper care of it.
orchid not blooming
In order not to worry about the flowering of an orchid, even at the time of purchase it is necessary to clarify what kind of variety it is and what its flowering period is. The fact is that different types flowers bloom in different time . But it happens that the expected flowering does not occur, while the green mass continues to grow. The main reasons for the lack of buds are the following:
- sudden changes in temperature;
- improper watering;
- rest disorder;
- lack of light.
Did you know? The most common reason for the lack of flowers on the plant is the lack of light, which causes the plant itself to fade. Most varieties of orchids do poorly even in partial shade, but varieties such as paphiopedilum and phalaenopsis can bloom in such conditions.
The lack of light is indicated by the color of the leaves: they turn bright green, while their natural color is light green. If the leaves turn yellow, this indicates an excessive amount of ultraviolet radiation, that is, excessive lighting. Control measures: the flower should be placed in a more lighted place or removed in partial shade.
Another common problem in the absence of flowering is root diseases. It is difficult to define it. Sometimes, even when the roots rot, the orchid continues to bloom.
But if she did not please flowering for a long time, and everything is in order with the lighting, you should check root system. Most often, it begins to rot due to excessive watering.
In this case, plant transplantation and removal of damaged parts of the rhizome will help. Periodic transplantation is in principle beneficial for its development.
Orchid buds wither
As a rule, in this case, the problems are the same as described above. But there may be additional reasons. First of all, the orchid is very sensitive to a change of residence. If you recently bought one and brought it home, it is not surprising that orchid buds wither and fall off.
Important! Lighting plays a major role in this process. It is logical that in the greenhouse it was suitable and sufficient, and at home it may not be enough or, conversely, there may be too much. Please note that there are shade-loving and light-loving varieties of orchids, this point must be clarified when buying a plant. So, on the northern and northeastern windows, you can grow cambria and phalaenopsis. Angrecums, cymbidiums, lelias, cattleyas, vandas and others are considered light-loving.
In addition, there may be problems with hypothermia orchids. These are very heat-loving plants, so you need to make sure that in winter the temperature in the room does not fall below 22 ° C. Please note that the humidity of the air must be at least 70%, otherwise the flowers will also begin to fall off.
The orchid loves good air circulation, but does not tolerate drafts. She also reacts strongly to the presence of a variety of foodstuffs nearby, especially fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene. He provokes accelerated maturation buds that can wither and fall off without even opening.
Another reason for wilting buds can be pests. In particular, the mealybug feeds on their juice, leading to the premature death of the bud.
Do not forget that wilting and falling of flowers is a natural process. The duration of flowering different varieties also not the same. Some delight with colorful flowers for several months, others for several weeks. It is likely that you bought the plant after flowering.
dark spots on flowers
Sometimes they arise not because of diseases, but due to mechanical damage while transporting the plant. Such spots do not spread over the flower, dry out, have uneven edges.
However, spotting may occur due to moisture on the petals during watering or condensation, when the plant was transported in a package. Because of this, the flowers can not only become stained, but also fall off. 
If at the same time the plant is still in the sun, then a burn may occur in places where water hits the petals - the water will work like a lens.
Did you know? Fungal disease can lead to brown spots on flowers. In this case, they can deteriorate literally overnight, when the entire plant is covered with spots. At the same time, the affected leaves and stems will be watery, and a moldy coating may appear on them.
Rot: prevention and treatment
Most often when indoor cultivation orchids have to deal with the fight against rot. Moreover, problems mainly arise due to excessive care.
The plant develops watery light brown spots on the leaves. Mostly young. After some time, they darken, grow, gradually merging with each other. Moreover, the lower the temperature environment the more abundant watering, the faster these processes occur.
If you have just discovered these signs of orchid disease, you can still help it, cutting out the damaged areas with a sharp tool, grabbing some healthy tissue. Cut edges should be treated with a preparation containing copper or crushed coal.
If these manipulations cannot be done, the flower cannot be saved. It is better to get rid of it until the disease has spread to other flowerpots.
Most often, brown bacterial rot affects such varieties of orchids as paphiopedilum, cymbidium, cattleya, phalaenopsis. Prevention of such diseases consists in spraying the plant with a solution blue vitriol once a month.
affects the roots of the plant, which soften and deteriorate. In this case, the leaves of the plant acquire a brown tint. The reason for these processes is too high humidity and temperature.
To get rid of the disease, it is necessary to adjust the conditions of the plant, as well as treat the roots and soil with a solution of topsin (0.2%) or a solution of foundationol (0.2%). This must be done three times, with an interval of about three weeks. As a rule, for this the pot is immersed in a solution.
To prevent the disease, it is necessary to use a high-quality substrate, previously disinfected, for planting. Most often, orchids of the Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, and Cymbidium varieties need such care.
The orchid is also characterized by such a leaf disease as gray rot
. It's easy to define: dark islands appear on the leaves, covered with a fluffy gray coating. Gradually, the rot passes from the leaves to the soil, then to the flowers, and then to the entire plant. The disease can also begin with flowers, covering them with small brown spots.
The disease occurs due to improper care - high humidity combined with low temperature. But sometimes the cause is excessive fertilization with a high nitrogen content, which reduces the plant's resistance to this disease.
- it is a fungal disease. Therefore, to combat it, it is necessary to remove damaged areas from the plant, and fully treated with fungicides.
Moreover, if the selected drug did not help and after some time the signs of the disease appeared again, another drug should be used. When watering, you should use products that increase the plant's resistance to disease.
Important! Try not to place orchids close to each other or to other plants. Then, in the event of the occurrence of gray rot on one plant, the spores of the fungus will not be able to spread to the neighboring one.
Most willingly, gray rot "settles" on orchids that bloom with white flowers: cattleyas, cymbidiums, phalaenopsis.
A fungal disease occurs when the flower is in a too cold room. Especially if before that the plant was sick or survived the attack of pests. In this case, the spots on the orchid leaves are removed with a sharp and sterile instrument, and the cut edges are treated with Bordeaux liquid or charcoal.
Next, the plant must be transplanted into another pot or into the same, but pre-sterilized. It is planted in a fresh sterile substrate, and the former must be disposed of. After transplantation, the plant creates the necessary conditions.
Frequent patients with a similar diagnosis are Cattleya and Paphiopedilum orchids.
If the leaves of orchids turn yellow or spots appear on them, you will probably have to deal with Fusarium rot. In this case, the leaves soften, curl, and the spores of the fungus give them a pinkish tint.
The main cause of such diseases is high humidity with poor air circulation. Most often, orchids of the epidendrum, miltonia, phalaenopsis varieties suffer from this disease if the necessary conditions are not met.
Recommended as a treatment treatment of the plant three times a day with a solution of foundationazole (0.2%). Treat all plants carefully, as rot spots can also appear on the shoots. At the same time, for the period of treatment, it is necessary to refuse to spray the plant, to ensure that it does not stand in drafts.
Leaf diseases: symptoms, prevention and treatment
Orchid diseases can be viral, bacterial or fungal in nature and manifest themselves in completely different ways: in the form of raids, stains, rot. Accordingly, for each disease there is a method of treatment.
Important! Almost all orchids lose their color over time, even when proper care. The lack of light weakens the immunity of the plant, but the light-loving orchid does not tolerate direct sunlight. Especially carefully it is necessary to accustom the orchid to the spring sun, shading those plants that stand on the south side so that they do not receive sunburn. Gradually getting used to the sun, the flowers will require shading only on a hot afternoon.
Most often, this fungal disease affects the leaves of the plant. Tiny but distinct round brown spots appear on them, which increase, connecting with each other. Large affected areas turn black, forming dips. If the plant is sick for a long time, a pink or yellowish coating may appear in these areas.
Causes: stagnant water in the axils of the leaves and high humidity.
Treatment begins with trimming the affected areas. Sections must be treated with ash or activated charcoal, and the plant itself with preparations containing copper. Processing is carried out three times with breaks of ten days. At the same time, it is necessary to reduce watering and completely abandon top dressing.
To prevent fungus it is necessary to ensure that the humidity of the air does not exceed 70% and does not fall below 40%, while regularly and well ventilating the room. Watch for water in the leaf axils and pseudobulbs. If she gathers there, remove it in time with a napkin or cloth.
Phalaenopsis, paphiopedilum, oncidium, and miltonia orchids are mainly susceptible to a similar disease.
Phalaenopsis orchids are most susceptible to this disease. First, on infected plants, the leaves turn yellow, then darken, then soften and crack. Liquid appears in the formed sores.
To get rid of the disease,such areas are cut out with a sterile and sharp instrument, the sections are treated with iodine or activated charcoal. If there are a lot of spots or the lobar vein is damaged, treatment should be carried out with stronger preparations. If after such procedures no relapse occurred within 10 days, then the plant has recovered and is non-infectious.
The disease occurs due to too bright lighting in the warm season, excessive fertilization, or improper watering.
Kinks in the leaves can cause ordinary mechanical damage. However, in some cases, they indicate insufficient watering of the orchid or its strong hypothermia after watering. 
Also pay attention to fertilizers. If they contain too much nitrogen, this can also cause deformation of the leaves of the plant: thickening, breaks, cracks, color changes to dark green.
To get rid of the problem, it is enough to refuse fertilizer for a while. It is also recommended to wash the roots of the plant and transplant it. Please note that after this procedure, the orchid may linger in growth for some time - this is a normal process.
This kind of damage appears on plants usually in spring and summer. When the activity of the sun increases. Orchids need light in large numbers, but scattered, and the direct rays of the sun for her, as a rule, are fatal and cause burns.
Provoke similar consequences and the remaining droplets of moisture on the leaves and petals. In this case, water, multiplying the strength of the sun's rays, contributes to the burn of the leaves - discolored areas with a brown edge appear on them. Over time, they dry out, forming holes.
The affected plant must be shaded, giving Special attention watering, but not flooding the flower. Heavily damaged areas must be removed by processing the edges of the cut. Top dressing during this period is better not to use.
About appearance powdery mildew He speaks white coating on leaves and flower buds. The areas covered with it dry out over time, and the plant itself dies. The disease occurs in conditions of high humidity in combination with high temperature is the so-called greenhouse effect. 
As soon as you find signs of this disease, you should immediately adjust your care and start treatment. For this the plant is treated with Topsin-M, Skor, or a solution of colloidal sulfur.
As a preventive measure the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin. This is recommended for all home orchids, as any of them has a risk of picking up powdery mildew.
A relatively rare, but no less dangerous disease. It also has a fungal nature and primarily affects the leaves of the plant.
And strikes at first lower part leaf, forming light spots. Over time, red pads appear on them, in which spores of the fungus ripen. Note that the disease appears on the weakest parts of the plant.
To get rid From him, it is necessary to remove the affected areas, no matter how large they are. Remember to disinfect the cut sites with 20% alcohol or activated charcoal. Also recommended treat the plant with preparations "Mikosan", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".
The plant becomes ill due to the appearance of various pests on it: white scale insects, mealybugs, aphids. Its spores reproduce well in their sweet secretions. 
The fungus grows by clogging the stomata of the leaves. As a result, the plant does not receive required amount light, weakens and, if left untreated, dies. Treatment consists of processing with the same preparations: "Mikosan", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".
Viral diseases of orchids
Oddly enough, orchids can also suffer from viral diseases. If a similar diagnosis was found in one plant, it must be urgently removed from others and destroyed. Doesn't exist in any way effective methods treatment of plants from viruses.
The most unpleasant thing is that the virus does not appear in the plant for a long time. It may be evidenced by the changed shape and color of the plant. Remember: if you have several flowerpots and watering is common in one container, all plants are infected.
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Phalaenopsis orchid diseases, which are most often grown in at home, are few, but their appearance, including spots and yellowing, signals improper care, as well as other reasons, including the natural aging of the plant.
If the plants bloomed, and then abruptly stopped, which is accompanied by the appearance of other problems, then urgent measures should be taken to correct care errors. It is possible to develop a treatment regimen and begin the process of healing a plant only after its visual inspection and determination of the root cause of the disease.
General information about the Phalaenopsis orchid
Phalaenopsis orchids are quite undemanding and easy to grow at home, thanks to which this plant has become very popular among flower growers in our country. However, quite often, flower lovers, especially beginners, do not know the reasons why spots appear or wilting of the leaves of their orchids is observed.
The further the moment of treatment from the onset of the first symptoms of the disease, the more difficult it is to cope with the problem. It is better to familiarize yourself with the main forms of manifestation of the most common diseases of orchids grown at home by looking at photos of plants during the period of the disease, so it will be easier for you to determine what problem your flower has and how to deal with it.
Why are the leaves wrinkled?
Sometimes the leaves of any type of orchid become quite soft and completely lose turgor, and the plant itself looks too lethargic and sheds its green mass. There are several reasons why indoor plants experience these leaf changes.
- This may mean that there was a significant problem with the root system, and it stopped supplying water to the leaves of the plant in full, which is most often the result of improper care.
- The reason may be the general weakness of the plant, which may subsequently die altogether.
- Wilting and loss of leaf elasticity can occur due to improper irrigation and other water procedures.
- In Phalaenopsis, as well as Vandas, the lowest leaves may turn yellow and even fall off for natural reasons.
Leaves on Phalaenopsis live for a very long time in conditions of high-quality care, but, of course, not forever, and dropping them, starting from the lowest leaf, while maintaining the overall healthy look plants are not a problem.
Beginners in the field of floriculture should remember that Phalaenopsis leaves can most often wither, lose elasticity or fall off for several reasons, including overflow or, conversely, constant overdrying of the plant, as well as too cold conditions and improper care. The plant should be treated based on the root cause of the disease, and photos and descriptions of diseases in books for flower growers and on specialized sites on the Internet will help determine it.
How to get rid of gray rot (video)
Why black spots and white dots appeared on the leaves, how to treat
At healthy orchid Phalaenopsis species leaves should always shine and shine, and also not have spots. However, as a result of a number of reasons, spots on the leaves may still appear.
- Burn spots may occur on leaves as a result of spraying plants in the sun. Such "sunburns" are light and dry.
- Orchids when grown at home can be carriers for a very long time viruses and various diseases and yet never detect it. The first signs of the manifestation of diseases are black spots, which first appear on the lower leaves of the plant.
- From the use of excessively hot water during shower procedures, Phalaenopsis orchid leaves can also appear in various sizes. black spots.
- Spots of calcium salts cannot be attributed to the symptoms of diseases, since they appear due to the use of hard water. To remove them, wipe the leaves of the plant with a weak solution of orange or diluted lemon juice. Such processing must be done with extreme caution.
Flower growers should remember that if wet spots appear on the leaves of plants cultivated at home, they must be urgently removed. This should be done as quickly as possible, since these spots grow very quickly and can provoke rotting of the whole plant and the appearance of a number of other diseases. To correct the situation, it is enough to assess the measure of changes in the photo, develop a treatment regimen and adjust care.
You can find out about the reasons for the appearance of black spots on the leaves and flowers of orchids.
Why leaves become soft
There are several reasons why the leaves of an orchid like Phalaenopsis become too soft and lose their natural turgor.
- If the leaves of any indoor orchids become soft or too sluggish, damage to the plant's root system may be the root cause.
- Often sluggish leaves this indoor flower become due to a severe moisture deficit or a significant violation of all irrigation measures and the basics of care.
- Sometimes the leaves room orchid can become soft, and also lose turgor as a result of excessive moisture in the planting substrate. In this case, the plant looks rather lethargic.
Beginners in growing plants of the Orchid genus at home should remember that if the condition of the plant worsens day by day, they turn yellow and become soft leaves, then this indicates problems with the root system, and the plant needs urgent rescue and care control.
However, it is impossible to draw hasty conclusions, and even more so to treat orchids without complete data on the state of the plant. In order to effectively deal with the problem, it is necessary, first of all, to correctly assess the current situation.
Other orchid diseases and their treatment
As a rule, failures in the vital system of a plant are associated with diseases and consist in the following manifestations, which are easily identified from the photo:
- Edema of the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid species may be associated with prolonged contact of the plant with moisture.
- Viral diseases in plants are quite rare, and appear as mosaic leaf spot and flowers.
- For some diseases, the appearance of small spots in the form of arrows, as well as peculiar circles or stripes, is characteristic.
- Spots on the leaves may be a manifestation of bacterial spotting of the plant.
- There may be a change in leaf color as a result of anthracnose or powdery mildew.
- Quite often there is a defeat of such indoor plants with rust or soot, black fungi, as well as a variety of rot.
Orchid diseases are of great concern to collectors of these beautiful houseplants. If an orchid is sick, first of all, isolate it from the rest and immediately engage in diagnosis and treatment. Smart Tips come to the rescue. We will show you orchid diseases in the photo and tell you how to deal with them.
Read this article:
A Quick Guide to Orchid Diseases and Treatments
If your collection of orchids is valuable and important to you, then the first thing you should take care of is to isolate it from access to various pests and diseases. And they may appear:
- from a new houseplant brought into the house;
- a nearby bouquet of flowers;
- poor-quality infected substrate during transplantation;
- unsuitable water for irrigation;
- with overfertilization and lack of fertilizers;
- from storing nearby infected (and this is not always visible) fruits and vegetables:
- damp cold air and mold;
- drafts, etc., etc., etc.
So who will say after that that the orchid is an unpretentious indoor plant, as many flower growers say.
Symptoms of orchid diseases associated with flowering
Of course, we grow orchids for the sake of long lush and extraordinarily beautiful flowering. But what to do if it is with flowering that problems arise.
Flowers wither and fall.
- Causes: lack of lighting, too hot, dry air, draft, low air temperature, temperature fluctuations.
Dark spots and dots on flowers.
- Causes: rot damage, poor ventilation, dampness at low air temperatures.
Lack of flowering.
- Reasons: temperature regime is violated.
Diseases and pests of leaves and peduncles
Green plaque
Reasons: settled colonies of microscopic algae, constant high humidity. Most often, the disease appears in greenhouses, winter gardens, greenhouses.
Fight. Removing plaque from leaves with a piece soft tissue(gauze) moistened with oxen, at home - with laundry soap or a weak solution of potassium permanganate and subsequent bathing.
Fissures, most often along the median vein.
Reasons: mechanical damage as a result of transportation or movement.
The base of the leaf (most often the apical one) turns yellow, the leaf withers, disappears.
Causes: fusarium disease or otherwise fusarium wilt, appears with excessive waterlogging, watering with relatively low temperatures content.
Remedy: Remove the affected leaf or peduncle to a healthy spot. Pruning is carried out with a sterile instrument. Reduce watering, treat the cut with Fundazol.
Dark sunken spots (black, brown)
Reasons: bacterial rot.
Elimination. Trim the leaves to healthy tissue, each cut with a sterilized blade. Treat the sections with one of the fungicides (Maxim, Fundazol, Topaz).
Brown spots with a yellowish or whitish rim
Reasons: bacterial spotting.
Treatment. The orchid must be isolated from the rest, cut off the affected tissues or whole leaves, treat the sections with antibacterial drugs (sulfur powder, activated carbon, wood ash, potassium permanganate - solution). Watering is moderate.
Dark strokes on the leaves, quickly merge into stripes.
Reason: virus.
Elimination: immediate isolation and destruction of the plant. Viruses multiply very quickly and can infect all orchids.
White spots.
Cause: Sunburn.
Elimination: in early spring and in summer, shade the plants, do not spray in direct sunlight, water droplets become small lenses.
Leaf wilting.
Reasons: rotting of the root system.
Elimination. Carefully remove the orchid from the pot and inspect the roots. soft and blackened, remove and treat the sections with antifungal drugs.
Uneven coloring, deformation of the sheet.
Causes: lack of mineral nutrition.
Elimination: regular feeding with complex fertilizers for orchids.
Diseases of the root system of orchids, treatment
Causes: breakage, mechanical damage.
Remedy: Cut slightly above the fracture, sprinkle with activated charcoal powder. If the roots do not have visible damage, but dry out, it is likely that there is insufficient watering and low air humidity. Watering and humidifying the air with a humidifier will help.
Drying of the roots in the substrate
Reasons: insufficient watering.
Elimination. Place the pot for 30 minutes in a container with warm water, take it out, let it drain. Healthy roots are clearly visible in a transparent pot, they are saturated with moisture and have a greenish tint.
Root rot
Cause: Over watering. At first, the roots become stained, then they become wrinkled, soft, brown.
Elimination: removal of damaged roots, disinfection of sections with fungicide solutions one third diluted with water (relative to the norm), transplanting into a fresh substrate. Watering is weak, complete drying of the substrate between waterings.
Orchid pests - description and fight
Aphids and thrips
Description. Very small leaf-sucking insects. Aphids settle in colonies, appearance looks like little drops. The color is greenish, yellowish or black. Adult Thrips are very small flies, have wings, an elongated body, black or yellow, whitish or transparent larvae.
Insects infect young tender parts of orchids: buds, flowers, growing shoots.
When affected by aphids and thrips, the flowers fall off, silver stripes and spots are visible on the leaves, and the surface becomes bumpy due to dead cells.
Fight. Removal of severely affected parts of orchids, spraying with insecticide Aktara, washing with laundry soap.
Repeat the processing procedure 2 more times with an interval of 5 days to destroy the larvae hatched from the eggs.
Mealybug
Description. Small insects resembling pieces of cotton wool. It feeds on leaf juice. Usually introduced with new plants. When defeated mealybug leaves turn yellow, wilt.
Fight. Mechanical removal cotton swab dipped in vodka or alcohol. Subsequent treatment with Actara 2 times with an interval of 10 days.
Snails and slugs
Description. Orchids contained in greenhouses, conservatories and winter gardens are susceptible to attack. Perhaps the appearance on the windowsill. the source of infection is a poor-quality substrate.
Mollusks hide in the substrate, where they eat the roots. Creeping out, they gnaw leaves, young shoots and flowers. Signs of a clear presence of snails are bitten edges of leaves and round holes in the ground.
Control measures. Collection and destruction.
Shields and false shields.
Description. Pests look like small hard growths on stems and leaves. Easily removed. Color brown or black. They leave sticky marks after their stay.
Control measures. Mechanical removal with a cotton swab dipped in vodka or alcohol. Then wipe the plant with a soapy swab, leave for 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Treatment with Aktara will not hurt either - 2 times with an interval of 7 days.
Preventive measures - increase humidity.
Description. A very small insect of a reddish color, hardly visible to the naked eye. Moves slowly. Attacks orchids when low humidity. It is found in the presence of thin cobwebs on the plant. The leaves are covered with a silvery coating and die.
Fight. Washing with warm water, treatment with acaricides, for example, Aktelik.
Prevention. Quarantine of new plants, elimination of drafts blown by the wind, spraying with warm water.