The main characteristics of the temperature regime and air humidity in the baths:
High humidity and high temperature can equally negatively affect the state of the electrical wiring and create a fire hazard.
What you need to know before you start wiring
Read the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE). The 7th edition of this document is in force on the territory of Russia.
In these Rules, in section 7, you will find clear requirements for the installation of electrical wiring and electrical appliances in rooms with high humidity and temperature.
Draw a wiring diagram in the bath and decide where and what equipment will be installed in the bath, where and what lamps, sockets, switches will be installed, what wires and how many of them in footage will you need for street and internal wiring. The choice of wire cross-section depends on the number of electrical equipment and lighting fixtures.
To study the issue of grounding a detached building and also, to have information about the local power grid, since our networks previously did not provide for grounding in each individual house.
Preliminary preparation
Requirements
All cables are laid only in strictly horizontal or vertical directions.
The corners of the turns of the wires are laid only at right angles (90 degrees).
The horizontal wiring line can be located no closer than 10-20 cm from the ceiling and should run parallel to it.
The distance of the wires from the doors must be more than 10 cm. The same goes for the switches near the window.
From metal objects, batteries, wires should be laid at a distance of no closer than 50 cm.
The switches can be located up to 1 meter above the floor surface.
The sockets according to the European standard are located at a distance of 30 cm from the floor level.
From the door of the shower stall, sockets and switches can be located no closer than 60 cm.
The cabling from the switchboard is made with a single piece of cable.
Wiring can only be connected in a junction (junction) box, which has a high degree of protection against moisture and dust.
The electrical panel is mounted as close as possible to the inlet of the supply cable.
Forbidden
Route wires in front of doorways and in wall corners.
Connect more than two lamps to one switch.
No bending or twisting of the wires is allowed.
Wire twists are not allowed - wire connections can only be made by soldering, welding, screw or bolt clamps and terminals.
Hide and hide junction boxes.
Before starting the installation, draw the main cable routes (by level) on the walls with a pencil and mark the points of equipment, lamps, switches, sockets.
Save the electrical network diagram on paper in case you have to do repair work in the future.
Features of connecting electrical wiring in baths and saunas
Carrying out electrical wiring in places of increased risk of electric shock and fire safety, such as a bathhouse or sauna, requires special rules.
Mandatory conditions
In terms of wiring:
It is necessary to extend a separate, independent line for the supply of electricity from the main switchboard with a separate circuit breaker, and also to mount a separate ground loop.
According to the requirements of the PUE, a hidden wiring system should be used, at the same time, open wiring is allowed. Open wiring is allowed in the wooden walls of the bath, that is, the wires can be carried along the surface of the walls, and therefore it is better to place them in less noticeable places. In brick walls, electrical wiring must be hidden, that is, go behind a layer of plaster.
Electrical wires should not come into direct contact with wood walls or wood finishes. Therefore, the wiring is carried out in closed boxes or along a refractory surface (track). To do this, under any electrical equipment, sockets and switches, special heat-resistant lining made of ceramics or Aceida sheets, or strips of asbestos (at least 3 mm thick and 10 mm protrusion behind the cable on both sides) are placed, which serve as an excellent insulating material. The track is mounted from a heat-resistant material that does not conduct current. It is necessary to calculate in advance the distance between objects in order to strengthen the insulators at approximately the same distance from each other. On log walls along horizontal lines, insulators are attached along the log at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other. Insulators are installed along the vertical lines of the installation of electrical appliances, two for each log. The insulators are screwed with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver at an angle of 45 degrees up and down.
In terms of instruments and equipment:
An RCD (Residual Current Device) in a switchboard is a prerequisite for use. The task of the RCD is to compare the current passing through the phase and zero. And if the difference between these values is greater than the RCD limit threshold (that is, current leakage occurs), then the RCD will automatically disconnect the phase and zero. For baths, a 5-10mA RCD is used.
The sockets in the bath must withstand a load of 10-16 A, be splash-proof, with covers, protection class IP-44 and higher. The same applies to switches, junction boxes and luminaires.
Electrical equipment may only be used specially designed for use in rooms with high humidity. It is better to place all equipment not built into the electric heater outside the saunas.
if it is placed in the steam room, then the PUE insists on the use of a temperature limiter, thanks to which, when the temperature reaches 140 degrees, the electric furnace will be disconnected from the voltage.
can be installed in the washing room, in the corner, close to the door or in the dressing room. If you are going to install a heater-stove, then it must be positioned in such a way that the chimney is as small as possible in length, and it must also be protected with a heat-resistant railing in order to avoid a fire.
for a steam room should be with a wooden lampshade, a heat-resistant, moisture-proof shade and a ceramic holder. The metal parts of the luminaires must be grounded. Any lamp designed for bathrooms will work in the washroom. The operating voltage should not be higher than 24 volts in the luminaires.
should be connected to the cable immediately after it leaves the wall or ceiling in order to exclude as much as possible the passage of wires along the walls in the steam room and washing room.
Is prohibited
In terms of wiring:
No twists, breaks and connections of wires in the washing and steam rooms are allowed.
It is not allowed to lay cables in metal pipes, sleeves or with metal sheaths, as well as on tin surfaces.
In terms of instruments and equipment
Plug sockets, switches and junction boxes are not allowed to be installed in a steam room, washing rooms and in rooms containing heaters for baths and saunas; they are installed in a dressing room or in a rest room.
It is also better to place the electric heater in another room.
Types of wiring - advantages, disadvantages
Installation of electrical wiring in the bath can be done in two ways:
open (invoice)
hidden (internal)
Open installation of electrical networks provides for laying wires in:
electrical skirting boards.
steel boxes (cable ducts),
corrugated sleeve
Reference:
The box is a square, triangular or rectangular structure, with a flat base, inside which all the cables in the room are laid. Open boxes are called trays. Cable channels are made of special non-flammable materials.
The wiring is routed over:
ceilings
For this purpose, the following are used:
insulators
Important!
No connections or damage to the wires are allowed inside the pipelines. Cable ducts can be filled with wires no more than 60% in order to exclude overheating of the communications and, accordingly, the danger of a short circuit.
Advantages
Installation is cheaper, since wall chasing is excluded
Repair work is simplified
Flaws
Unaesthetic appearance
Trunking over timber structures can deform plastic trunks over time.
The corrugated pipe is difficult to lay perfectly flat and accumulates dust.
Concealed installation of electrical wiring provides for the laying of cables in closed boxes inside the structure of the building:
in the ceiling
in ceilings
in furrows under plaster
under the removable floor
inside building structures.
In this case, close attention should be paid to the joints of the cables, in particular, their insulation. And if the structures of the building are made of wood, then it is imperative to put insulating material on top and bottom of the wire.
Concealed wiring advantages:
Fireproof and protected from moisture, since the access of air and moisture to the wires is significantly limited
Safe in terms of accidental touching live conductors
The service life is higher than that of open wiring, since any mechanical damage is excluded
Aesthetic look
Disadvantages of hidden wiring:
Limited access to wiring in case of troubleshooting
Time-consuming installation
Types of wires for a bath
For overhead wiring, the most reliable wire today is a self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire), which is connected at one end to the main line, and at the other to the input structure on the wall of the structure.
reference
The self-supporting insulated wire is a phase, neutral and additional wires twisted into a bundle, does not need a supporting cable and is mounted to the supports or to the wall of buildings using linear fittings (anchor clamps). The minimum section is 16 sq. Mm. A wire with this cross section passes current up to 63 A.
For a bath, according to the requirements of the PUE, the wire cross-section should not be less than 16 sq. Mm, and a larger cross-section for a bath is useless.
Advantages of SIP
The wires do not overlap, which means that a short circuit is excluded
In winter, no ice crust forms on the wires
has a special weather-resistant coating that is resistant to atmospheric temperature extremes. It is important to use such a wire on the seashore.
The wires are not recyclable, therefore theft is excluded
Ease of installation work due to the presence of special clamps
High mechanical strength, which eliminates line breaks
SIP can be laid along the facades of buildings
The self-supporting insulated wire can be laid in a joint suspension with communication lines and high and low voltage wires, which can save on supports.
Their service life is more than 25 years.
Disadvantages of SIP
Compared to bare wires, which can be found everywhere in private sectors, the cost of laying self-supporting insulated wires increases by about 20%. The cost of self-supporting insulated wire with a cross section of 16 sq. Mm ranges from 20-30 rubles per running meter.
Lack of flexibility, difficult to integrate into a circuit breaker.
For underground wiring, an armored power cable with copper conductors of the brand VBbShv and VBbShvng is used.
Advantages of VBbShv
The VBbShv cable is very reliable due to the use of a steel braid
The cable is not threatened by earthen shrinkage
Rodents are not afraid of the cable
Disadvantages of VBbShv
high cost, which ranges from 200 rubles / r.m.
For internal premises (but not in the steam room), wires are used - such as NYM, VVG.
For lighting devices, you can use a VVGng-LS cable with a section of 3x1.5
For a steam room and an electric furnace, a special cable with the most heat-resistant insulation should be used, capable of withstanding temperatures up to 180 degrees and high power consumption, with copper conductors (aluminum wires cannot be carried in the bath).
These include wires of the PMTK, PRKA, RKGM, PGRK or PRKS brands. To the junction box, which should be located outside the high-temperature area, you lead one of the proposed heat-resistant wires, and from the box to the shield you can lead a VVG or NYM cable.
In a wooden bath, you can lay a wire of the APRN, PRN, AVRN, PRVD brands, with double insulation. If there is a single-phase electrical wiring in a wooden bath, then the supply cable must have three cores. You can also use wires of the APV, PV, APPV and PPV brands
Advantages
VVG and NYM wires are designed for a maximum temperature of up to 70 degrees.
They do not support combustion
Resistant to oxidative processes
Important!
For a bath, all cables must have:
double insulation, rubber-in-rubber insulation is ideal
be copper if intended for internal wiring
protected by waterproof shells
be three-wire so that it is possible to ground appliances and sockets.
Electrical wiring device inside the bath
The wiring is carried out at the bottom of the wall frame. Entering the wire into the sockets, switches must be done from the bottom or from the side, making a V-shaped bend (loop) so that condensation does not penetrate inside.
Insert the cable into the steam room through the wall or ceiling in the place where the lamp will be located. The free ends of the wires must be of sufficient length to freely connect the luminaires.
The metal parts of electrical appliances installed in steam rooms and washing rooms must be grounded. To do this, use a three-core cable, two wires of which are connected to the phase and zero, and the third wire is neutralized, connecting it to the fittings and leading to the house panel or to the input box on the site and connecting it to the neutral.
All sockets must be protected by differential automatic devices, and in rooms with high humidity, an RCD with a triggering current of 10 mA must be installed.
In the rest room, all wires, without connections and any splices, are led to the shield.
The shield is proposed to be placed either in the recreation room or in the vestibule. All wires coming from sockets, switches, input machines are connected on the panel.
External wiring device
There are two ways to supply electricity to the bath:
air
underground
Air mounting method
The air method of installation involves laying a wire from the switchboard to the building of the bath through the air and has certain height requirements.
Above the roadway, the wire must be located at a height of at least 6 meters above ground level.
Above the pedestrian area - at least 3.5 meters.
The cable must enter the structure of the bath at a height of at least 2.75 meters from the surface of the earth.
If the air distance from the highway to the house is more than 25 meters, it is necessary to install an additional support.
Entering electrical wiring into the house using a self-supporting insulated wire.
Before starting installation in the local Energosbyt, it is recommended to obtain a description of the technical conditions and agree on the procedure for introducing electrical wiring into the house, so that in the future there will be no disagreements with representatives of this organization.
For a single-phase input, the number of self-supporting insulated wire cores per input should be two, for a three-phase input - four.
If you use standard piercing clamps for self-supporting insulated wire, then the conductors will not need to be stripped. The required number of terminals is determined depending on the number of wire cores. The self-supporting insulated wire is attached to the outer wall of the bath using an anchor clamp.
It is better to lead the self-supporting insulated wire along the wall of the house in a plastic box or in a corrugated pipe.
The self-supporting insulated wire is brought to the place of entry inside the house. In a separate sealed box, before entering the wall, install a two- or four-pole circuit breaker, depending on the number of phases. The self-supporting insulated wire goes to the machine, and from the machine, that is, inside the room, another wire will go, intended for internal wiring.
Choose the rating of the machine an order of magnitude higher than the machine in the lead-in switchboard.
It is introduced into the building using a metal sleeve. Since the self-supporting insulated wire is an aluminum wire, it cannot be carried inside the room. For the transition, hermetically sealed connectors are used: "copper-aluminum".
The hole in the wall through which the lead-in cable will pass must be reinforced with a steel pipe with grounding.
Entering electrical wiring into the house from the street
A wire can be introduced into the building of the bath (if it is free-standing) from the street using a steel pipe-rack, which is fixed on the roof or on the wall. The diameter of such a pipe must be at least 20 mm.
The upper end of the pipe should be bent into a half-ring to protect it from moisture.
The lower end of the pipe, which is embedded in the wall of the building, is attached with an angle of inclination towards the street by about 5-10 degrees.
The pipe is painted with bitumen varnish inside and outside, and a hole is drilled in the lower part of it so that condensing moisture can escape.
The pipe is fastened to the wall with clamps, and its upper end is fixed with steel wire braces, which are attached to the roof with through bolts.
Insulators in the form of caps are attached to the pins of the stand pipe.
The overhead line wire leads to insulators and is secured with wire. If the overhead branch line is made with aluminum wire, then it is fastened with aluminum wire, if the wire is steel, then the fastening wire must be galvanized steel.
The branch wires are connected to the ends of the wires using the clamps of the input wires, which are passed through the rack pipe.
Support insulators are used in installation when laying bare stranded aluminum wire.
Underground installation method
You need to lay a VBbShv cable with 4 copper conductors with a cross section of 10 sq. Mm.
A trench is being dug with a depth of 0.7-1 meters.
First, sand is poured into the dug trench with a layer of 10 cm, then the cable is laid, then sand again. In order to exclude possible mechanical tensions of the wire inside the ground, the cable must be laid with a margin, namely in a wave-like manner.
In the construction of the bath, the cable is inserted through a steel sleeve.
Before entering the shield, the cable is stripped, connected to the machine, grounding and lightning protection are made.
It is not recommended to use metal pipelines for cable laying, as they collect condensate.
What power is needed, what devices must be taken into account
Before talking about power and current strength, we will give some introductory definitions and explanations of what a single-phase, three-phase connection, zero and grounding are.
Single phase connection
- the wire through which the current flows is called phase or
- the wire through which the current returns is called zero or
Through one wire, the current goes to the consumer of electricity (for example, to a light bulb), and through the other it returns back. This is how a single-phase network works.
Any electrical circuit consists of two wires:
Single-phase circuit diagram
Three-phase connection
The three-phase circuit includes three phase wires and one neutral.
With a three-phase network, an alternating electric current flows through three wires and returns one at a time.
Three-phase circuit diagram:
Power sales organizations supply alternating electric current precisely through three-phase networks - this is how the current enters our homes. Sometimes a three-phase network can be brought directly into the house. Most homes are supplied with a single-phase network. Finding out which network is connected to your home is very simple:
when there are 2 or 3 wires in the incoming cable, then the network is single-phase
when the incoming cable has 2 or 5 wires - three-phase.
Earthing
In a single-phase network, this is the third wire, which does not carry any load, but carries out a safety function. The purpose of this wire is that in the event of a short circuit, the excess current through this wire will go to the ground.
Grounding diagram:
It is just necessary to calculate the power of electrical appliances in order to evenly distribute their load over the phases. It should also be borne in mind that modern electrical devices are of sufficiently high power, which can create too high a load for a single-phase network. Therefore, depending on how much and what power of electrical appliances you are going to connect on your site, you can make a choice in the direction of connecting a single-phase or three-phase network.
The advantages of a three-phase network:
The ability to use more power. A single-phase network is designed for a total power of approximately 10 kW, and a three-phase network - up to 30 kW and more. Example: if 1 phase enters your house from the power line, then when the cross-section of the incoming wire is 16 sq. Mm. the total power of all devices can be no more than 14 kW, and if there are 3 phases, then 42 kW.
It is easy to connect electrical appliances with three-phase power supply, such as electric stoves.
Disadvantages of a three-phase network:
You will need a stabilizer, since with an uneven load on one of the phases, the other phases will not work correctly.
It is necessary to build in special equipment designed specifically for a three-phase network into the shield.
We calculate the power
All electrical appliances (light bulbs, electric ovens, etc.) have numbers:
the first digit is voltage (options: 12, 24, 220, 380 V)
the second digit is the power of the electrical appliance (written kW or k
To calculate the required wire cross-section, use the proposed example from the table:
Example for a single-phase 220 V connection:
two-core wire - phase conductor and neutral, or
three-core wire - phase conductor, neutral, protective conductor
In our example, by calculation, a wire with a cross section is sufficient 1.5 sq. Mm.
If you do not want to go into formulas and reference books, then you can calculate the required wire cross-section in a more simplified way:
Taking into account the power reserve, for every 2 kW of power there corresponds 1 sq. Mm of wire cross-section. However, with increasing cross-section, this relationship is not accurate.
In our example, a wiring with a cross section will correspond to 3.1 kW. However, when choosing a wire, you should always make calculations with a margin of about 20-25%. In our example:
- Power with a margin: 3120 x 1.25 = 3900 W
- Current strength: 3900 W / 220 = 17.73 A
- Wire cross section: 2.5 sq. Mm.
Residual current device
Automatic circuit breakers
Important!
One wire will go from the main board to the bathroom. It will carry the entire load calculated on the basis of all electrical appliances. The branching of the wires will go from the bath shield.
A separate cable will go to the electric oven.
A separate cable will go to sockets and a separate one for lighting.
The power and, accordingly, the cross-section of the wire is considered separately for each individual wire, which will carry the intended load specifically for it.
For example, an electric furnace has a declared power of 4000 W, then 4000 W x 1.25 = 5000 W (rated power for the furnace), 5000/220 = 22.73 A (current)
Therefore, the cross-section of the wire for the oven is at least 2.5 sq. Mm. But, as practice shows, electricians will recommend that you take a wire with a cross section of 4 sq. Mm.
Example for a three-phase connection (380V):
four-core wire - 3 phases, neutral
five-core wire - 3 phases, neutral, protective conductor
In this case, the current obtained by calculating the single-phase version should be divided by 3. And already from the calculated calculation, choose the wiring cross-section.
In our example, the current strength is 22.73A / 3 = 7.58 A. The wire cross-section can be selected less, while the number of cores will be 4 or 5.
We need to calculate the current strength for the correct choice of the input machine. It is recommended to choose an automatic machine an order of magnitude higher than the calculated value of the current. In our example, the circuit breaker should be at least 25 A, and even better 32 A (according to the calculation, the current strength is 22.73A). The circuit breaker should be selected according to the weakest link in the circuit. For example, the circuit has a wire for an electric oven, for sockets and for lighting. Accordingly, it is necessary to calculate the current consumption for each of these links and select an automatic protection based on the very minimum current consumer. Outgoing machines are selected in groups according to the same principle.
Choosing an RCD
The RCD should be rated higher than the circuit breakers. The rated current is indicated by the manufacturer directly on the RCD equipment. This is the current value that the RCD is capable of passing for a long time and above which the RCD will be disabled. There are RCDs with rated currents - 6, 10, 16, 25,30, 32, 40, 63, 80, 100,125 A.
That is, if in our example we choose a circuit breaker for 25 A, then it will be sufficient to install an RCD at 30mA. However, taking into account the high humidity in the bath, it is recommended to set the RCD at 10 mA. With such a low RCD threshold, you are not afraid of an electric shock in case of an accidental breakdown on the case, for example, of a lamp, while the likelihood of false shutdowns increases.
The most reliable option is to use the PUE reference book to select the cross-sections of wires, machines and RCDs, a reference book.
Step-by-step wiring installation
- cable entry into the bath (see air or underground method)
- installation of the flap in the bath
- cable routing from the shield (see open or closed wiring method)
- connection of luminaires (see requirements for the selection of luminaires)
- connection of sockets (see requirements for the selection of outlets)
- connection of the electric furnace (see the requirements for the selection of wires and placement of the electric furnace)
Installing the shield
The switchboard in the bathhouse bears the function of transmitting electricity to consumers:
- sockets
- switches
- electrical appliances
Mounted in the dashboard: input machine, groups of outgoing machines and RCDs
Requirements for the location of the shield
Free access to the flap
Ventilation, no clutter
It is not allowed to locate the panel in a place with a high temperature, for example, in a steam room. it is best to place it in a dressing room or rest room.
It is desirable that the visor is illuminated by a natural light source.
The ideal placement height is 1.4 - 1.8 m above the floor surface.
Connection conditions
The phase conductor (gray in accordance with GOST) is attached to the upper terminal of the input machine.
From the lower terminal of the input machine, using jumpers, the phase conductor is connected to the upper terminals of all existing outgoing machines. There is another way: the phase conductor is bred to outgoing machines using distribution busbars.
Zero core (blue) goes to zero block.
The protective conductor (yellow-green) is attached to the protective block or to a welded bolt in the shield itself.
The phase conductors of the wires outgoing to the load are connected to the lower contacts of the machines.
The input and output wires are laid in the shield, and they are removed from the shield using corrugated or plastic pipes made of non-combustible material.
It is advisable to sign all machines in order to know which group of consumers this or that machine corresponds to.
The wiring diagram of the bath is often stored in the shield.
The cores must be well fixed in the terminal blocks. Insufficient fixation leads to heating of the terminals and burning of the contacts, and then the terminals.
Choosing electrical equipment for a bath
An electric oven is designed to convert electrical energy into heat. Modern electric stoves quickly heat the stones and create the necessary heat in the bath. The heating rate of the steam room depends on the power of the oven. The stove is selected depending on the volume of the room.
Advantages of an electric stove over stoves-heaters:
Doesn't take up much space
Environmentally friendly
Doesn't take a lot of time to warm up the room
You can adjust the temperature you want
They are able to maintain the temperature for several hours.
No need to worry about wood
When choosing a stove for a bath, pay attention to the main characteristics that are indicated in the product passport:
- Power / voltage
- Dimensions (edit)
How much room heating is the stove designed for?
To make the right choice, you should know that modern electric furnaces are:
- Wall mounted
- Floor
- Thermos ovens
- Stoves with a steam generator (make it possible to combine the Russian and Finnish versions of the steam room in one room)
Electric furnace control can be:
- Harvia
- down conductor in combination with a ground loop;
- lightning rod
Lightning protection can be rod or cable.
- for incandescent lamps - 10-30 W / sq.m.
- for halogen lamps - 23-27 W / sq.m.
- for fluorescent lamps - 6-8 W / sq.m.
- Find the total power of all electrical and lighting devices, divide the indicator by the voltage you need in the network. This will give you the calculated amperage. Now, according to the standard tables, select the approximately required wire cross-section.
- Next, decide whether a two-phase or three-phase network will be installed in your home. For three-phase networks, for example, the cross-section of the neutral wire can be equal to the cross-section of the supply conductor.
- Decide how you will lead the cable to the bath: underground or over the air. Usually the wire is run on top: it is cheaper and faster than laying the cable underground. For overhead cables, the maximum outdoor temperature must be taken into account. If in the conditions of your area it reaches 40 degrees, then you need to increase the design section by 25%. Do not forget to pay attention to what temperature the insulation of the wire can withstand, so that there is no problem of its rapid wear.
- Decide what material will be used for the cable. Aluminum is cheaper than copper, but the properties of this metal determine the cross section, which is larger in area than copper wire.
- cables should be laid only in directions strictly horizontally or vertically;
- the turns of the wires should be laid at an angle of 90 degrees;
- the horizontal wiring line is located at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ceiling, parallel to it;
- keep the distance between doors and wires at least 10 cm;
- switches located near the window should also be at a distance of 10 cm, and at a height of 1 m from the floor;
- sockets are located at a height of 30 cm from the floor;
- keep a distance of 50 cm between wires and metal objects such as batteries;
- wire the cables from the switchboard with a single piece of cable;
- wiring connection is done only in a soldered box, which has a high degree of protection against dust and moisture;
- the electrical panel must be mounted as close as possible to the entry of the conductive cable.
- installation of wires in the corners and opposite doorways;
- connecting more than two lighting fixtures per switch;
- bends and twists of wires, as well as their twisting (connections can only be made by soldering, welding and using terminals or bolt clamps);
- hiding junction boxes.
- Underground "transit". With this method, the outgoing cable is led underground and into the bath through the foundation, at a level of at least 0.5 m. You must first provide appropriate holes for these purposes. Pipes with a diameter twice as large as the cross-section of the wires will be inserted into them. Throughout the entire path, the power line must be protected from moisture and unnecessary loads by a rigid box (if the depth does not exceed 2 m).
- Air "transit". In this case, the line is pulled at a height of 2.75 m (in the absence of obstacles, for example, a road). If there is a significant distance between the structures, then intermediate supports must be provided so that the cable does not sag. The entrance to the bath should be done through the wall or roof.
- naked, not covered with protective insulation;
- self-supporting rigid wire (SIP), covered with an insulating layer.
- in the steam room and washing room, only closed wiring is done;
- in no case should the cable be laid near the oven;
- Place the sockets and switches for the steam room and the washing room in an adjacent, less hazardous room (for example, in the break room).
- Switches and sockets are not installed in the steam room and washing compartment. All devices are mounted in the corridor, rest room, dressing room. This requirement is justified by the high temperature and humidity in the steam room and washing section.
- Luminaires that are used in the steam room and sink should not be based on fluorescent lamps. They can simply explode from the heat and poison the room with mercury vapor. Since the lamps are attached to a wooden paneling, the maximum allowable power for them is 75 watts. Better to use 60-watt incandescent bulbs.
- Installation of lighting devices should be carried out in the corners of the steam room or behind the seats. This arrangement is not accidental: hot air enters these places last, so there is no such temperature as under the ceiling.
- Lamps must be protected with water-resistant and heat-resistant shades. Additionally, you can cover them with carved wooden screens in order to create a relaxing atmosphere. In the wash compartment, the lighting should be bright enough, but be sure to cover the lamps with waterproof shades. For other premises of the bath, there are no special requirements for devices, except for your preferences.
- In the bath rooms, as in the house, be sure to use either automatic machines that open the connection in case of network overloads, or an RCD (residual current device). Its functions are the same as those of the machine. The maximum current that most often requires lighting in a bath without an electric oven is 16 A.
- It is recommended to supply power for lighting in a bath or sauna through a differential circuit breaker.
- It is not allowed to install sockets, switches and switchgears of any type in baths or saunas.
- Metal objects in the bath or sauna are connected to the potential equalization system, which goes to the grounding bus.
- All lamps in a bath or sauna have double or equivalent electrical insulation.
- According to SP 31-110, emergency lighting is installed in the premises of baths or saunas.
- A separate circuit breaker is provided for any line (emergency and main) lighting in a bath or sauna.
- It is allowed to replace emergency lighting with hand-held portable devices powered by accumulators or batteries.
- In the bath, the illumination should be 50 lux (degree of visual work Zh-2 according to SNiP 23-05), in the sauna - 100 (degree B-2).
- decide whether traditional light sources or fiber optic illumination will be used;
- make an appropriate design for lampshades;
- with the help of a sketch, think over how the selected lamps for the steam room in the bath will be attached, which is also important for the rest of the premises;
- choose the best location;
- when making a lampshade according to a template, make a carved element;
- use tempered frosted glasses ordered from the supplier according to the corresponding images (sketches or drawings).
- When decorating the front of the bench, either the vertical or inclined position of the boards is recommended. With the horizontal position of the boards, the result will be the worst. The distance between the boards of one centimeter is optimal for the perception of such backlighting.
- The use of fiber optic cable provides the highest level of electrical safety. In this case, the supply of voltage to the room for the needs of lighting is either significantly reduced or completely excluded.
- Either transparent plastic or glass is used to produce optical fiber filaments. They are designed for different temperatures, and glass filaments are more heat-resistant. This feature of fiber optic cables must be taken into account when designing and choosing a lighting system.
- compulsory grounding;
- protection against splashing on the flask;
- protection against mechanical damage;
- suitability for work in conditions of high temperature and humidity.
manual (from the control panel)
remote (from a PC, phone, dispatch)
The range of prices for the average volume of room heating is up to 15 sq. m:
| Manufacturer | The country | Price |
| Harvia | Finland |
8600 -25200 rub. |
| Helo | Finland |
RUB 6,500 - RUB 21,000 |
| Tylo | Sweden |
48000 - and above |
| Sawo | Finland |
RUB 3,600 - 12,800 |
| Finnleo | Finland |
5000 - 13300 rubles. |
|
Inzhkomtsentr |
Russia |
RUB 5600 - RUB 14600 |
| Polytech | Russia |
9600 - 15300 rub. |
| Vesuvius | Russia |
11,400 - 16,900 rubles |
Maintenance and preventive inspection of electrical appliances and wiring
All electrical appliances, wires are designed for a certain period of operation. The service life of a particular device is usually indicated in the product passport. In this case, all electrical appliances and wiring must be inspected:
premises with a normal environment - at least once every 2 years
rooms with high humidity and temperature - once a year.
The RCD must be tested once a month by pressing the "test" button.
Once a year, check the tightness of the contacts connected with screw terminals (in the shield, in sockets where powerful electrical appliances are connected, in junction boxes.
What you need to pay attention to
In circuit breakers, spring contact plates can break off.
The springs in the sockets are weakened, as a result the contacts are melted.
Contacts in the shields heat up or burn.
The circuit breakers fail - they do not work.
The screw terminals connecting the wires loosen over time.
What is included in the service:
Failed switches and sockets cannot be repaired, they must be replaced.
The contacts on the dashboard must be periodically cleaned of soot and tightened tight, if necessary.
The contact surfaces of fuses and circuit breakers must be free of dust and oxide.
Circuit breakers with a damaged case or once failed in operation cannot be repaired, but must be replaced.
Electricity meters should not have any damage to the terminals or case.
The overhead wiring line is checked for chips, cracks, burns on insulators, as well as the condition of the connections.
The work of all electrical appliances is being tested.
Cost of materials / works
Overhead wire
Indoor wire
Junction boxes
Socket boxes
One-key switches
Two-key switches
Single sockets
Double sockets
Circuit breaker
Electricity meter
Clamps two-pin
Clips four-pin
Electric oven
Let's call the approximate prices for typical services for the installation of electrical wiring:
Slitting walls for cable - 400 rubles / r.m.
Laying the cable in a corrugated pipe - 95 rubles / r.m.
Installation of cable channels - 105 rubles / r.m.
Laying wires in cable channels - 45 rubles / r.m.
Installation of a switchboard - 4000 rubles / piece
In matters of grounding, each specific case must be approached individually. The organization of grounding in a separate area must be coordinated with local power grids. This is due to the fact that before the power grids were not designed for the arrangement of grounding in every private house. We will give only general information:
To make grounding in a free-standing bath, you need to create a separate circuit (center) of protective grounding.
Lightning protection includes:
Rod lightning protection is a metal rod installed on the roof of a house and connected to the ground loop using a down conductor.
Catenary wire lightning protection consists of several pins with a cable stretched between the pins.
Security questions
Typical errors
Common questions
How to calculate the illumination of a room?
For an approximate calculation of the required power of the lamps, you can use the formula P = p * S / N, where S is the area of the room in square meters, N is the number of lamps, p is the average specific power for lighting, set depending on the purpose of the room. In baths, this indicator is as follows:
Example:
For an incandescent lamp, the average power density is 20 W / sq. M, then, with an area of 15 sq. M. and the number of lamps - 3: 20 * 15/3 = 100 W
Therefore, if you decide to install 3 lamps in a room with an area of 15 square meters, then each of them must have a power of 100 W - this will be the optimal illumination.
How to properly connect an RCD
Install a two-pole (VA) circuit breaker (1)
We put the phase and zero contacts into the counter (2)
Other contacts are led to the load, the diagram shows the direction to the RCD.
We connect the fire protection RCD (3).
The phase conductor is wired to (VA) automatic switches (5,6,12)
Then the conductor is directed to the differential circuit breaker (13)
The following contact connections are routed to the RCD (7)
Power 3 machines (8,9,10), which are responsible for the operation of sockets (2,3,4)
Conductors (15,16,17) for sockets (5,6,7) are similarly displayed
After the fire-fighting RCD (3), we fix the zero conductor to the zero bus (4)
From the zero bus (4) we start the conductor to the RCD (7 and 14) and to the differential machine (13)
Attention! The zero conductor after the differential automaton goes directly to the load, and not to the zero bus.
From the RCD (7), the neutral conductor goes to the bus (11). The neutral conductors of the sockets will also be connected to it (2,3,4)
The RCD (14) is similarly connected to the neutral conductors of the sockets (5,6,7)
Attention! Zero lighting conductors do not need to be run through the RCD and bus terminals (11, 18). They must be inserted under the contacts of the terminals of the common zero bus (4).
The zero bus is located in the housing (20)
All grounding conductors for the contact bus (19)
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Our whole life consists of various little things, the original combination of which presents everyday life in a positive light. This definition works in any direction. And in the bathhouse, one is mutually beneficial with the other, and thanks to the right interaction, this coziness is created, in which you want to plunge again.
It would seem, what is the lighting in the bath? It is enough to install waterproof shades, and that's it ... But in reality it is not so. If you approach this issue thoughtlessly, then certain inconveniences will arise, and God forbid they spill over into serious problems.
All rooms have their own lighting!
We will not go deep into the rules for conducting electrical wiring in the bath, let's talk about the aesthetic side. It is clear that all lighting devices must be from the line of waterproof ones. But more to the point. What are the best light sources to install?
To begin with, let's repeat what rooms there are in a modern bath. First of all, this is a steam room, a washing department, a dressing room, a relaxation room and, if possible, a pool, a bathroom, a terrace or an attic. Since many today consider themselves to be sophisticated bathhouse attendants, the lighting for each room should be different, the benefit of various examples on the Internet can be found abound. And it is in this direction that there are certain directives that must be strictly adhered to.
The heart of any bath. The lighting here should not be provocative, and not too 
bright. But the disadvantage is not recommended either. Brightness irritates the look, and muted tones, on the contrary, load, prompting a person to sleep. If, coupled with improperly conducted ventilation in the steam room, there is still a lack of lighting, then you can forget about the charms and benefits. After steaming, you will immediately fall asleep. Light must be selected soft, diffused. This kind of lighting creates a cozy and relaxing atmosphere.
It is necessary to place the lamps behind your back. When you take a steam bath, they should not shine in your eyes. Hang them in the corners and on the back wall. Or, as it is very fashionable now, make a ceiling light. In such an arrangement, turning in any direction during the procedures, the light will not fall into the eyes. For a small steam room, 2-3 small lamps are enough.
Washing department, swimming pool
Here, on the contrary, it is necessary to use the lighting to the maximum. There should be no lack of light. More devices with dim lamps or several, with more 
powerful sources. Any location: wall, ceiling and even lighting built into the floor. The main thing is not to mount them close to water. The switches should be in the dressing room, that is, outside the aggressive environment.
Restroom
Regardless of the design: a bathhouse with a veranda or an ordinary rest room, there should be enough light here, but in moderation. Full flight of fantasy is allowed. People with rich imaginations can give free rein to emotions and design lighting in any style. There are a lot of options, from a conventional ceiling chandelier to built-in lighting devices.
If there are no financial constraints, you can use fiber optic illumination. Although this option is applicable to the steam room, but in the rest room, this design will look original. You can create a starry sky system with stretch ceilings. It looks very nice and neither the backlight nor the material 
they are afraid of moisture, but it will be present here.
They look original in a relaxation room with a bath, multi-circuit lighting. If you need brightness, please, you need an intimate environment, you can turn off some devices. The use of wall sconces is not prohibited. They create a kind of atmosphere of peace and comfort.
Utility rooms
If the plan for the construction of a bath provides for such places, then light is also needed here. Originality and design is not required here, and as an option, switches for all devices can be located in the back room. To illuminate the interior space, an ordinary plafond with one incandescent lamp is enough.
What kind of lamps to use?
Disassembly of devices, first the steam room is subject. There are no tricks here, ordinary lamps are needed. They do their job well and are not afraid of high temperatures. A 40 or 60 W lamp is enough. No LEDs, and the vaunted energy-saving appliances won't last long here. According to the passport, they do not withstand temperatures, more than + 60 ° C. Halogen lamps are more susceptible, but they themselves get very hot, and the light from them is directed, and this is not necessary in the steam room.
There are no special requirements for other premises. The main thing is that the lamps do not get water from the drive or shower and there is enough light and the lamps themselves are protected from moisture. This is where you can save. For decorative purposes, LEDs of the IP-65 brand are used.
And of course, you shouldn't forget about safety precautions. All work is carried out in strict accordance with the regulated norms. And here it is important to show originality and combine a pleasant business with a useful one.
Our ancestors used to visit the bathhouse only in the daytime: you can't really wash yourself by the light of a candle or a kerosene lamp. Nowadays, electric lighting for a bath is no longer a problem, and we can take water procedures at any time of the day. The most important thing in this business is compliance with safety measures in the process of setting up electrical wiring and installing lighting fixtures.
Preparation for work
Usually, the cable to the bath is not led from the pole, but from the switchboard, which is located in the house. In order to correctly calculate the required amount of wire, you need to make a preliminary marking on which lighting fixtures, sockets and switches will be marked.
It depends on the number of light sources what cross-section of the supply cable is required.
The use of electric ovens should be mentioned separately, if they are provided for in your bath. The lead-in cable requirements for these are specified in the manufacturer's instructions.
Summary table for the selection of cable cross-section
Preparatory activities
First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the Electrical Installation Rules. This document contains all the requirements for the installation and operation of electrical appliances in areas with high temperature and humidity.
Please note: in order for the electrical equipment in the bath and steam room to be installed correctly, it is best to seek help from a specialist who has permission for such work.
The basic requirements for electrical wiring in such premises are as follows:
Mount the electrical box next to the conductive cable entry
In this case, it is not allowed:
Before proceeding with the installation work, use a pencil to draw on the wall using a level for the main cable routes. Mark the points where the equipment, lights, outlets and switches will be located. Transfer this diagram to paper and save it. It can be useful to you over time, when repair work is required.
Bringing a conductive cable into the room
We have already said that the electricity in the bath should be drawn from the panel in the residential building, and not from the central highway. This can be done in two ways.
On the one hand, underground cable routing is more reliable. But it is more troublesome and more expensive than the air line, so users often opt for the latter, although it is quite vulnerable.
More about the air line
Laying through the air is dangerous in that it is threatened with constant tests for the strength of the power line ׃ precipitation, wind, weather changes, sunlight have a detrimental effect on the cable, so it must be well protected from any climatic vagaries. For wiring the line from home to the bathhouse through the air, two types of electrical wires are used ׃
The second option is more suitable, since the cable holds its "shape" well and does not require a frame for installation. A dense layer of polyethylene acts as insulation, which perfectly withstands the blow of any element, and the core is made of aluminum. The minimum section is 16 mm square, which may be more than your actual needs. Due to the fact that the cable is rigid, it should never be run inside the house. Usually, before being put into operation, it is changed to a more elastic version with a copper conductor of the VVG type, with fire-resistant insulation.
Separately, it is worth considering the organization of the entry point to the bath. Better to opt for the wall. It will be very difficult to provide waterproofing for the inlet in the roof, moreover, there is a possibility of moisture getting inside the contact. But what if the minimum entry height (2.75 m) is not suitable for your bath? Here you can use a steel bent pipe that raises the cable to the required height and introduces it to the desired point, which is below the allowable mark.
Please note: make the holes in the wall for entry at an angle, this will help protect the cable from moisture in case of oblique rain. Insert insulating porcelain plugs ׃ into the pipe from both sides of the wall, from the outside - a funnel, from the inside - a sleeve.
Internal wiring installation
The bathhouse is an object with an increased fire hazard, therefore, all elements of the circuit: sockets, switches and lighting devices must have high protection against dust and moisture.
In the rooms reserved for the steam room and washing room, special care should be taken. Ideally, the wiring does not lead along (inside) the walls at all, but pulls the wire to the desired point across the room from the adjacent room.
Installation diagram of electrical wiring in a bath with several rooms
Unfortunately, this effect is not always possible to achieve, so pay attention to the important points for arranging wiring in such areas ׃
Do not locate outlets and switches directly in washrooms
When developing a wiring layout, certain rules should be taken into account.
Choice of lighting fixtures
Artificial light sources for baths and steam rooms are divided into three types:
Incandescent lamps. Familiar to us, the so-called "Ilyich light bulbs" that use a lot of electricity and have a small resource of work. If the general rules for mounting lamps are applicable for the dressing room and the rest room, then in the steam room such a lamp should be protected only by a glass shade with a metal body.
LED lamp. They have natural and bright light, and they last 20 times longer than incandescent bulbs. However, the resource reserve is rapidly decreasing under the influence of high temperature and humidity in the steam room, and it can be very difficult to change lamps of this type.
Fiber optic system. This option is ideal for a steam room: the optical fibers are durable and practically immune to the harsh climate of the steam room. With the help of a fiber-optic system, you can beautifully decorate the lighting (create a figure, the effect of a starry sky, etc.) and equip the room with additional "lights" at any time.
Try to provide calm, even lighting in the bath.
It is better to make the lighting in the steam room dim. Place the lamps in the corners or along the ceiling line: this way, the light is diffused using decorative wooden lampshades. A popular option is seat lighting; it gives the room an "inner glow" and special appeal.
Video: lighting options in the bath
As you can see, it is difficult to make the right lighting in your bath, but it is quite possible. Surely you will need the services of a professional electrician, but our advice will help you understand the intricacies of this process and significantly save on the purchase of material, as well as protect yourself from mistakes and unfair decisions of hired workers. Good luck to you!
The standards specifically stipulate that it is possible to install lamps specially designed for such places in the bathrooms. From the specificity of use, the volume of a bath or sauna would be equated by the authors to zones 0 and 1 in accordance with GOST 50571.11. When you take a steam bath, splashes fly, water is everywhere, dampness. Therefore, the lighting in the sauna must be protected from moisture. In practice, traditional baths are lit from 220 V. The lamps are located at a height of more than 2.25 meters from the floor, which removes restrictions. Let's talk today how to make lighting in a bath or sauna.
Rules for making lighting in a bath or sauna
A number of recommendations are given from the standards that do not apply to lighting in a bath or a sauna directly, but can be useful. Others are vital. Let's say the fire safety requirements say a lot about emergency lighting. We believe that this will not be superfluous for a bath or a sauna.
There are no direct indications of the sign. But according to observations from life, the requirements of GOST 50571.11 are applied in baths and saunas. Installation of lighting specially designed for wet places is allowed. There are no restrictions above the line of 2.25 meters from the floor.
Junction boxes are prohibited. The wiring in the bath or sauna does not show bare screens; metal sleeves and corrugations cannot be used. It is allowed to install switches in rooms where only washbasins are located. No closer than 60 cm from the edges of the shell.
The cables go separately from the 220 V. According to the PUE (section 6.1), the power supply of the branches (main and backup) of the lighting in the bath or sauna is arranged independently, eliminating the possibility of simultaneous failure. It is allowed, in the absence of a second phase, to use an individual transformer for emergency lighting in a bath or sauna. As a rule, the switching on of the spare branch is performed automatically when the power supply to the main one is lost.
The topic is about high humidity, differential type RCDs are used with a response threshold of no more than 30 mA. This ensures that the fire safety requirements for baths or saunas are met. Let us explain: increased heating occurs at the place of leakage. For a long hour, an RCD can work on lighting in a bath or sauna when the load exceeds the nominal value by 45%. During this time, an unforeseen development of events is possible. The differential automaton turns off the lighting of the bath or sauna immediately.
Please note that a transformer is not built in between the RCD and the luminaires. Otherwise, the conditions for protecting the lighting of the bath or sauna will be violated. First, a transformer is installed, a differential automaton with lamps is already included in its circuit. The lighting of a bath or a sauna is switched on in a switchboard (according to PUE 6, it is not placed in a room under a bath, for example, a basement). You will need to buy modules for a DIN rail and mount them as needed.
For example, flashlights. We are sure that it is easy to find on sale a similar type of device with a degree of protection of the case from IP55 and higher (requirements for protection against wetting).
Let's say the perimeter of the bathhouse is 2x2, the height of the ceilings is the same. Therefore, we find the required luminous flux: 50 x 5 x 4 = 1 kLm. These are two 50 W incandescent bulbs. It must be taken into account that water vapor is making adjustments. In this regard, a safety factor of 1.7 is taken.
For exact formulas, we recommend that you study the Manual to SNiP II-4-79 on the calculation and design of natural, artificial and joint lighting. We skip this part on the simple basis that for personal saunas and baths the provisions of SNiP 23-05 are advisory in nature. Part of the light is reflected from the walls, which the authors did not take into account. Focus on your own needs: the first like the semi-darkness, the second is more comfortable in the sun.
Bath or sauna equipment with lighting fixtures
Depending on the location of the bath, the list of works is not the same. There are general provisions.
Discharge lamps
Try to do without discharge lamps. The high voltage generated at the starter motor is potentially hazardous in humid conditions. The provisions prohibiting the use of voltages above 380 V are announced, but the methods of increasing it with the help of chokes are forgotten. The above fully applies to halogen bulbs for the E27 socket. In the base they have an electrical circuit with multiplication or on a transformer.
LED Bulbs
LED bulbs are a safe choice. The devices do not heat up during operation, therefore, the requirements for fire safety fall. It is enough to connect the system via a differential circuit breaker to avoid trouble. LED bulbs belong to class III electrical safety, if they are powered from a voltage of 12 V, regardless of whether it is constant or variable. And this removes considerable restrictions, including the height of the ceilings. Plus in the great efficiency.
If an incandescent light bulb is powered from 12 V, 20 times the current will be required to obtain a similar illumination. The wiring may simply not pass the test. In the case of LED lamps with a voltage of 12 V, the current grows only twice in comparison with incandescent lamps for 220 V. This allows you to create relatively safe systems in simple ways. The minimum conductor cross-section for copper is 0.75 square millimeters, which is quite enough to maintain the required illumination level.
Location of wiring
From the above, it is clear that the wiring should be located in the thickness of the walls or protected with non-metallic sleeves (if the voltage fits into the requirements of SELV). Switches and sockets are located in the dressing room, no closer than 60 cm from the door to wet rooms. Moreover, the devices are protected through an individual isolating transformer or a differential protection device.
Above, we talked about the joint use of these devices. The essence of the first technique is that the secondary winding is isolated from ground at any point. Then only touching both ends at once kills, which is hardly possible. In case of insulation failure and breakdown, the meaning of using an isolation transformer is lost. As a result, the only differential protection device saves. The authors were reinsured.
Underground cable routing
When laying the cable underground, be guided by the requirements of section 2 of PUE 6 (in the seventh edition it is not included in the text). In particular, the cable must be laid at a depth of at least 70 cm of the planning marks, not counting the drainage sand bed. The specified type of cable does not need a signal tape, but in the absence of armor, it will be necessary to provide protection from bricks (laid out with a path across the route above the cable) or special ceramic tiles. The trench is laid no closer than 0.6 meters to the foundation of any building (excluding the blind area).
Switchboard
It is logical to place a small switchboard at the entrance to the bathhouse. Here the main and emergency lighting is divorced. It is better to feed the bathhouse with a single denomination, it will be possible to avoid a lot of difficulties with the laying of cables (it is required to conduct it separately for a specific voltage).
Combustibility of walls
When wiring, pay attention to the wall material. On a combustible base, the use of protective gaskets or metal corrugation is required (inside the metal is prohibited, as mentioned above). It is easier to immediately bring the beam into the attic, from where it is already possible to start distributing through the lamps. The latter are placed on the ceiling and walls inside the bathhouse (in accordance with the location of the zones specified in GOST 50571.11).
The second option is problematic; you will have to protect the wiring if possible. It is easier to place lamps on the ceiling. If LED lamps are used, the difficulties with fire are excluded. Before commissioning, measure the resistance of the line from the switchboard to the socket. Units (better than a fraction) Ohm are foreseen. You can calculate the current based on the consumption of light bulbs (written on the box), and determine the copper cross-section according to the PUE 6 tables (minimum 0.75 for copper).
Method of cable laying BSNN
It is allowed to lay the BSNN cable in an open way. In this case, it is logical to use ceramic insulators (rollers). A cable with fireproof insulation or lining is laid along the wooden wall. It is permissible to try using lime plaster. But it's better to do without frills. GOST 50571.11 allows the placement of pull-cord switches under the ceiling. We do not recommend using the sauna: the equipment will quickly rust and become unusable.
Installation work
Install lighting fixtures after construction is complete. In the case of wooden walls, there is no point in trying to brick the wiring inside, but keep rats out. In this case, borax is used. It is known that the component is part of Ecowool to protect against rodents. Borax causes choking in mice. If the lighting in the sauna is done correctly, no one will touch it.
Due to the specifics of the premises, waterproofing of the log house is sometimes required. Use a suitable primer around the chandeliers, suitable for the conditions described. Sauna lighting should provide less heat. Often, materials used in construction emit harmful compounds even at 70 degrees Celsius. It is clear that you need to select wisely, but without polymers it is difficult - there is no alternative. If only the walls of the log house are increased to preserve heat.
We add that for pacification, it is worth choosing warm colors (the glow temperature is below 3000 K), for combining with sports activity (which they like to do in Russia) daylight is suitable, which stimulates the nervous system. The windows are made as narrow as possible, although, in case the door is jammed, it is possible to get out, or arrange an emergency exit. This is obvious because of the potential for acne. If locked from the inside, not far from the tragedy. And so the rescuers will simply enter in a different way.
The lighting in the bath is arranged from two independent branches. It is not superfluous to put a switch in the shield in order to de-energize the object in one fell swoop. These are typical security considerations, but to some people they seem like a safety net. Skeptics are advised to study the history of the "Lame Horse".
The main feature of saunas and baths is heat. To get the temperature that is optimal for bathing procedures, and it can be in the range of 65–120 degrees Celsius, and at the same time not incur large heating costs, effective thermal insulation will be required. Windows are one of the main objects of the room through which a lot of heat is emitted. Therefore, they cannot be sources of light in the steam room and sauna. To obtain effective lighting in rooms for bathing procedures, it is better to use special lamps for baths, steam rooms or saunas.
Lighting design
For the most beneficial effect of the procedures on the human body, the lighting of the bath should create a relaxing atmosphere. At the same time, the lighting in the steam room is made optimal in terms of brightness and color. The used luminaire for the steam room must emit such a light that all objects are clearly visible. This will help you avoid getting burned on the stove or tripping over the water ladle. Therefore, to obtain an effective result, a preliminary design of the interior with the placement of light sources is mandatory.
It helps to choose the right lamps for the bath, design the optimal lamp for the bath, and give a pretty visual idea of how the lighting in the bath will look like. The design stage is recommended for everyone: both professionals and owners of private houses and summer cottages, who are able to make lighting in the bath with their own hands. If you plan to independently install heat-resistant lamps in the steam room, it is recommended:
Special design solutions
Before making lighting in the bath, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the already completed projects on the Internet. Noteworthy are the lamps that shed light into the steam room or into the steam room from under the bench in the truest sense of the word. This is a simple and effective lighting solution. It does not require the manufacture of lampshades. Light sources are located on the wall under the bench. Their position must be linked to the structure and design of the front of the bench. It should have enough space for light to pass through.
The room for the steam room and sauna can be illuminated with a wide variety of lighting fixtures. Their placement when using light from under the bench may be redundant. Therefore, the design must be done taking into account the selection of the brightness of the light sources after manufacturing. The design of the luminaires should allow for the installation of lamps of various wattage and sizes. At the same time, the perception of design should not change for the worse.
Economy issues
With the rise in energy prices, saunas and baths are becoming very expensive. And not so much because of the construction costs, but because of the operating costs. The amount of consumed electricity has to be reduced in all consumers. Including in light sources. The use of optical fiber allows the use of LED lighting in the bath.
If you place LED lamps for a bath directly in a steam room, a sauna, and in other rooms besides the hallway, this will most likely lead to overheating and breakdown.
Conventional semiconductors cannot be used in saunas and baths without forced cooling. But then cold air will enter the room and lower the temperature in it, which is unacceptable for a sauna and steam room. Fiber optic cable, which has minimal attenuation to light, makes it possible to separate the light source and its radiation in space. LED lamps or individual LEDs are mounted outside the room and, if necessary, equipped with fans for blowing and cooling.
Luminaire device with fiber optic cable Flexible fiber optic cable of small diameter is a convenient light source for placement. Its, perhaps, the only drawback is the high directivity of the light flux. This feature must be taken into account at the design stage in order to apply design solutions for effective light diffusion. An optical fiber cable can literally bring light into the bath. Moreover, this can be both lighting in a sauna, steam room or other room, as well as lighting in a sauna to obtain an original interior.
To obtain an original interior design and for general lighting, an LED strip for a bath can be used. In some baths and saunas, a heat-resistant tape with LEDs corresponding to a certain IP class can be used for illumination and illumination. But the possibility of such an application must be indicated in its technical documentation.
To reduce the effect of high temperatures, which in some saunas can reach 120 degrees Celsius, forced water cooling can be applied to the LEDs. For this, the tape is placed in a transparent plastic or glass tube. A stream of water is created inside the tube.
At the lighting design stage, it is necessary to determine how to correctly solve this technical problem. Water can be supplied to the pipe directly from the water supply. But then there will be a significant consumption of cooling water. A more economical, but also more expensive technical solution may be to circulate a certain amount of water through a tube.
This will require an expansion tank and a circulation pump. It will also be necessary to solve the problem with the accumulation of heat in the water, the temperature of which will increase as the lighting is on. The LED strip evenly illuminates the entire space of the steam room or sauna, creating a pleasant diffused light. With this kind of lighting, it is pleasant to take a steam bath and take any bath procedures. To control the light of tapes in conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to use devices with an appropriate IP protection class.
But LED fiber optic lighting is the most expensive type of lighting for saunas and baths. If there is not enough money for the budget of such a project, you can use 36 volt incandescent lamps or 12 volt automotive halogen lamps. Higher voltage for lighting saunas and baths is not allowed by the PUE. Lamps for a bath with such lamps must meet certain requirements:
Fluorescent lamps in the buildings of baths and saunas are used only in those rooms where the humidity does not exceed the values permissible for the use of electrical equipment of 220 volts. Lamps in rooms where bath procedures are received, including lighting in a steam room, are not made with these lamps. Electric wiring for lighting of steam rooms and saunas is carried out with heat-resistant wire. The use of an RCD is mandatory.