Fuchsia (lat.Fuchsia) is an evergreen perennial shrub belonging to the Cyprian family. This plant pleases the eye with bright flowers of all kinds of shades, which is why they so often like to settle it on home windowsills. Fuchsias are native to New Zealand, South and Central America. In culture, the flower has been grown for over 200 years. Below we will tell you more about how to care for fuchsia, whether to water often, when to transplant, and what to do if it does not bloom.
In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches and oval, slightly jagged leaves at the edges. Depending on the variety, indoor fuchsia blooms at different times of the year, so you have every chance to have a flower bed on the windowsill, which will dazzle from early spring to late autumn. Among the varieties, there are simple (for example, Bon Accord, Winston Churchill), semi-double (Satellite, Snowkup), double (fuchsia Margarita) and brush-flowered (Leverkusen).
Temperature, lighting
Proper home care for fuchsia begins with choosing the optimal place for placement. The flower needs partial shade or bright light, but without direct sunlight. Fuchsia thrives on eastern and northern windowsills. Delicately colored varieties are best kept in partial shade, and fuchsias with bright colors - in a well-lit place.
The plant loves cool rooms, so in summer it is necessary to try to ensure the temperature in the room is up to 24 ° С, and in winter - up to 15 ° С. In the warm season, the flower can be taken out to the balcony or street, choosing a well-lit place. The plant does not tolerate heat well and needs to be sprayed, but this must be done after sunset. You can place the plant pot on a pallet with damp pebbles or expanded clay. To keep the fuchsia from overheating in summer, choose a light-colored pot.
Soil and watering
The fuchsia flower loves moist soil, however, over-watering can lead to rotting of the root system. Provide a layer of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pot. It is necessary to water fuchsia regularly in the warm season, but at the same time make sure that the topsoil has time to dry. Water must be defended or filtered. In winter, watering fuchsia must be reduced to a minimum. Provide a dormant period for the flower, but do not allow the earthen coma to dry out.
The plant loves loose, breathable soil. If you will prepare the soil for fuchsia on your own, then it is best to take 3 parts of sod land, 3 parts of leaf humus, 1 part each of sand and peat. If you buy ready-made soil in the store, choose universal or for flowering plants. You can add some peat mixture to it.
It is necessary to fertilize fuchsia with complex fertilizers for flowering plants during the growing season. Add fertilizer to the water for irrigation once every 1-2 weeks from the moment the first buds appear on the flower. You can add liquid fertilizer to the spray water, but only until the buds open. Stop feeding in September when the shoots are ripe. In winter, during the dormant period, you do not need to fertilize fuchsia.
Pruning and replanting
Thanks to the flexibility of fuchsia branches, you can give an ampelous, bush or pyramidal shape. The plant is pruned before wintering and in spring. Before sending the fuchsia to rest, the old branches are shortened by 2/3, and the young ones by 1/3. All leaves, flowers and buds are removed. In the spring, you should shorten the branches by 2 more buds, remove the dried ones and those that grow inside the crown.
If the pruning was not done in the fall, there is double work to be done in the spring. To ensure a beautiful shape and prevent the plant from exposing, new branches must be pinched twice in the spring. The last pinching should be done in the last ten days of May, so as not to delay flowering.
The indoor fuchsia plant requires an annual transplant. It is necessary to take a pot 3-4 cm larger in diameter and height than the previous one. Too large a container will trigger the growth of new shoots, but will slow down flowering. Bushes up to 3 years old are simply transferred into new pots, and in adult fuchsias they partially change the soil or add 3 cm of fresh earth on top.
Growing fuchsia outdoors
Fuchsias feel great outdoors. Moreover, this significantly reduces the risk of pest infestation - in a hot and dry room, fuchsia is much more often attacked by spider mites and aphids.
Planting
You need to transfer a flower to open ground in late spring - early summer. In order for fuchsia to withstand winds and rains, a support is first dug into the ground. Feeding with biological fertilizers is effective.
For planting in the ground, it is better to select varieties with powerful straight shoots. It is better to choose a shaded place, since most fuchsias do not tolerate direct sunlight. But there are also hybrid varieties bred for cultivation on sunny grounds - "Coral", "Aloha". It is better to plant ampel compact varieties directly in pots, because in the winter you will still have to clean the flowers indoors.
There are very few cold-resistant fuchsias that can withstand frosty winters in the open field (for example, magellan fuchsia). Some growers conducted successful experiments on wintering fuchsias in the open air - with the onset of cold weather, the ground part of the plant was cut off at the root, and the area with the roots was insulated. If you want to save the plant for sure, it is better to remove it indoors or on a glassed-in loggia for winter, because fuchsias love a cool winter. That being said, remember to prune before your winter break.
Problems with growing fuchsias
Even if you are sure that you know how to care for a flower, no one is safe from periodic difficulties. Fuchsias rarely get sick, but they are susceptible to attacks by whiteflies, aphids and spider mites.
Pests
- Whitefly. When a whitefly infects fuchsia, spots appear on the leaves, they turn yellow and fall off. A sooty fungus appears on the damaged areas.
- Spider mite. When a plant is infected with a spider mite, the leaves become discolored and fall off, and black dots are noticeable on their back side. The pest loves rooms with low air humidity.
- Aphid. When aphids are affected, its colonies can be seen on the outer parts of the plant. At the same time, the leaves curl, the stems bend, the buds remain unopened.
If pests have just appeared, a warm shower (with a water temperature of 36-38 ° C) can help in the fight against them. After the procedure, the plant must be allowed to dry and only then exposed to sunlight. If this does not help, you should carry out 3-fold insecticide treatment with an interval of 7 days. A solution is prepared according to the instructions, after which the crown is sprayed with it and covered for half an hour with a plastic bag, and the substrate is watered with a 2 times diluted dose for spraying.
Other problems
- The fall of buds and leaves can be observed in violation of the irrigation regime, lack of lighting, a sharp change in location in relation to the light, hot air.
- The short flowering period of fuchsia can be triggered by insufficient feeding, lack of light and moisture during the growth period, and insufficiently cool wintering.
- Brown spots and yellowness of leaves appear due to waterlogging of the soil in the cold season.
Fuchsia bloom
The plant blooms profusely and for a long time. The flowers consist of a tubular corolla with bent edges and a bright calyx. They are somewhat reminiscent of lanterns hanging from branches. Fuchsia bloom can be either monochromatic (pink, red, orange, white, purple, lilac) or contain several shades at once.
During the flowering period, it is important not to turn the plant with its other side to the light source, otherwise it may shed flowers. Wilted ones must be removed immediately so as not to stimulate the ripening of inflorescences, due to which the flowering period is shortened. Usually, the fuchsia flowering period does not provoke allergic reactions in others.
Fuchsia propagation
Reproduction of fuchsia at home is possible using seeds or cuttings. It is best to start the growing process in the spring. Fuchsia loves coolness, and in the summer, cuttings often rot from high air temperatures.
Cuttings
It is necessary to take young fuchsia cuttings 10-20 cm long, since woody ones will take longer to root. Before putting the cutting into water, you need to remove all the lower leaves and shorten the remaining ones so that moisture evaporation through them does not weaken the sprout. You can use regular filtered water.
To prevent moisture evaporation, you can build a greenhouse over a container with water by covering the handle with a plastic bag. The first roots sometimes appear after 4 days, although usually the process takes 10-14 days. There is no need to wait for the appearance of long roots - the cutting can be transplanted into the substrate as soon as they hatch.
There is another way of rooting cuttings - placing them directly into the substrate. In this case, the placement of the greenhouse is necessary, otherwise the leaves will lose their turgor. The advantage of such rooting is that the cutting adapts to the ground faster. After rooting, the greenhouse can be removed. At first, there will be a loss of leaf turgor until the plant gets used to a lower level of room humidity than in a greenhouse.
Seed propagation
This method is difficult, but interesting, since a plant grown from seeds rarely retains the properties of the original flower. To do this, it is necessary to exclude the self-pollination of fuchsia and its pollination by insects. Anthers are removed from a flower that has not yet blossomed, and the pollen of the paternal plant is applied on the stigma of the pistil.
After that, a cover made of fabric or paper is put on the flower to protect it from insects. When the fruit ripens, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a couple of days. Sowing seeds is best in March-April on moist soil, then place the container in a greenhouse and provide good lighting and room temperature.
Seedlings appear in 2 weeks, and after 1.5-2 months the seedlings can be planted more spaciously. After another two months, young plants can be planted in separate pots. Seedlings gradually adapt to the environment, periodically opening the greenhouse. If you do this abruptly, young shoots may die.
If fuchsia does not bloom
The reason for the short flowering of fuchsia may be an insufficiently cool wintering. When kept in a hot room, the plant may not bloom at all. The lack of flowers can also provoke:
- abundant or insufficient watering;
- poor lighting;
- lack of nutrients in the soil.
Purchase features
Fuchsia can be purchased at a specialty flower shop or conservatory. When choosing a seedling, pay attention to the appearance of the plant - the roots should not protrude above the substrate, the leaves should not have spots, dry areas. The top of the central shoot should not be damaged or pinched. The plant must be accompanied by a certificate indicating the variety, the shape of the bush and a photograph of the flowering. The cost of a young rooted cuttings of fuchsia is 200 rubles.
Fuchsia is a brightly colored houseplant that can even be planted outdoors. With proper care, it will delight you with long flowering. Fuchsias are easily propagated by cuttings, which makes it easy to expand the collection.
Fuchsia: reproduction, cultivation and care at home ... Home fuchsia is most widespread because of its simplicity in care and ease of reproduction.
A fast-growing semi-herbaceous fuchsia shrub with small oval leaves, amazingly beautiful bright flowers hanging like lanterns on long and thin pedicels. Their sepals and corolla are brightly colored in different tones, which gives them a special charm. A fuchsia bush can be arranged in the form of a standard tree or grown as a hanging ampelous plant.
Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?
How to care and what to do if fuchsia does not bloom. Possible reasons may be that in the winter, unsuitable conditions were created for fuchsia. Ideal conditions in winter are 5-10 degrees. In this mode, fuchsia stops the growth of shoots and goes into a state of dormancy. As the temperature rises, the intensity and duration of the illumination should also be increased.
The reason may be due to the late pruning and pinching of the fuchsia. Pruning should be done in the spring and fall, while cutting out any diseased, weak, or broken branches. With cold wintering, branches in the fall should be shortened by one third. With a warm winter, it is better to postpone cardinal pruning until spring (February-March).
They pinch the shoots depending on what shape you decide to give your plant. When forming an ampel, usually the pinching is done after the third pair of leaves. When forming a bush, pinch after the second pair of leaves. You should not do more than two nips on the upper shoots, and it is better to pinch the lower shoots once, otherwise you can not wait for flowering.
Errors in care during the growth and flowering of fuchsia. The plant may be hot, as mentioned above, or poor lighting. Direct sunlight oppresses the indoor plant, from which it suddenly becomes shallow and sheds its buds, while the roots may suffer from the heat. Overfed with fertilizers (nitrogen), or vice versa, there is not enough nutrients (phosphorus-potassium) during budding. The size of the container does not correspond to the size of the root system. Fuchsias bloom after they cover the entire lump of substrate in the pot with their roots.
For fuchsia, worthy content!
Temperature
During the growing season, the most favorable range for fuchsia is 18-25 degrees. In summer, especially in August, it behaves well in the open field, but as soon as t exceeds the 30-degree mark, the plant sheds its leaves, dries up and stops blooming. In extreme heat, fuchsia should be taken out to a loggia or balcony, avoiding direct sunlight, leading to the death of the flower. To protect sensitive plant roots from overheating, it is advisable to use a large ceramic pot (plastic containers get very hot).
Lighting
All fuchsias prefer bright, diffused light. They should be grown on the east (west) window of the room or in the garden in a comfortable partial shade. This culture does not tolerate the heat of the day, but it may well withstand the morning (evening) sun rays. But the flowering plant can no longer be rearranged and turned: this can lead to the fall of all flowers and buds.
Watering fuchsia
In the spring-autumn period - abundant - as the upper layer of the substrate dries up; in winter - moderate. For irrigation, it will be better to use soft, settled water. By the end of the growing season, watering is noticeably reduced, and by October-November, they practically stop. At low temperatures, the houseplant fuchsia is usually watered 1-2 times a month.
Air humidity
During the growth period, the leaves are sprayed from a spray bottle in the morning and in the evening, or, to transfer more moisture, a decorative bowl with pebbles filled with water is placed next to the pot. In autumn and winter, excess moisture in fuchsia is contraindicated, so spraying is stopped during this period.
Fuchsia feeding
For open ground, biofertilizers are most effective, as for premises, here you can use any ready-made fertilizers intended for home flowering plants. Frequent feeding (once a week) is recommended from the end of March; in winter, fuchsias are not fed.
Soil and transplant
Fuchsias are transplanted annually and always in the spring. For this purpose, use special substrates from the store or any fertile soil, not forgetting about drainage. Sand and humus are recommended as useful additives, and when grown on a balcony - loam, which retains water well.
Fuchsia pruning
The more often fuchsia is trimmed, the thicker its foliage. The most suitable option for growing fuchsia is a regular pot or hanging basket. Planting several multi-colored varieties together creates a real floristic fireworks display.
Fuchsia propagation and home care
Propagation by cuttings 
This process of fuchsia cuttings is carried out in February or March, sometimes in August-September (for slow-growing varieties). Cuttings 5-7 cm long root in sand, water or any suitable loose substrate. Already on the 20-25th day, the formation of roots occurs, and the seedlings are transferred into pots 7-9 cm. The composition of the soil mixture is sand, humus, leaf and sod land in equal proportions. To get a lush bush, cuttings should be planted several pieces at once in one pot. Young growth blooms in the same year.
Seed propagation
For seed maturation, artificial (cross) pollination is required. By independently mixing various varieties of fuchsia, you can get new hybrids that delight the eye with a kaleidoscope of new colors.
Propagation by leaves
The stems, together with the most developed leaves, break away from the "mother" and are placed in soft soil to a depth of 1 cm, after which they are closed with a plastic (glass) cover. For their growth, daily spraying from a spray bottle with warm boiled water is necessary. Further transplantation into containers (pots) is possible when small rosettes appear at the base of the stem.
Possible problems with fuchsia leaves, diseases and pests
Problems arise most often due to improper care. Fuchsias rarely get sick, and of the pests it is most worried about are white flies (from the moth family). As for the external signs of an unhealthy appearance, it is they that allow you to correctly adjust the conditions for keeping the plant:
- powdery spots or fine dew on the leaves. The reason is high humidity. The method of struggle is spraying with an aqueous mixture of foundationol (dilution 1 to 11);
- falling foliage. Possible reasons are insufficient watering, lack of light, or an excess of warm dry air;
- falling flowers. This is exactly how fuchsia responds, the pot of which was rearranged or turned towards the sunny side during flowering. Another common mistake is interruption in watering, that is, insufficient or too abundant supply of water to the plant;
- short flowering season. It is difficult to identify the root cause, since several factors can affect here at once: lack of light and / or feeding, poor watering, keeping in too warm a room, etc.;
- yellow stripes and brown spots on the leaves. The reason is waterlogging of the soil in winter.
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1. Fuchsia does not bloom!
And from changing the place of suffering cannot be alleviated in any way - spray it 2 times a day, do not keep it in the bright sun and do not feed it for a month. Sometimes you have to trim the crown if it is very large. If her condition begins to deteriorate - the branches dry out, mold appears in the pot, the trunk rots at the base - then you will have to check the roots again. The same can be from overfeeding.
9. My fuchsia leaves tips dry.
Answer: In most cases, the tips of the leaves of fuchsias dry out when the root system is damaged (bay, rot of the root collar, dry coma, overheating of roots, underground pests). The reason may also be a sharp change in air humidity (for example, if a fuchsia, accustomed to high humidity "under a hood," is placed in a hot, dry room without adaptation), frostbite, weathering (when the fuchsia, accustomed to room conditions, is taken out to the balcony without adaptation), leaf sunburn, ground pests
Up to 3 years - every year, after - every 2-3 years During the period of active growth 22-24, during the rest period 5-12 During the period of active growth - when the topsoil dries up, in winter 1-2 times a month On hot days - in the morning and in the evening every day. During the rest period - do not spray West and east windows During flowering, you can not rearrange the flower to another place.
Lighting
Fuchsia is a photophilous plant, but it does not tolerate bright sunlight at noon.
Therefore, the optimal place for it is the windows facing east and west. The gentle morning and evening rays of the sun will be just in time.
If the flower is on the south window, shading is needed, for example, with a sheer curtain. Fuchsia will not disappear on the windowsill on the north side either, but it will be very stretched, the flowers will become small and pale, and their number will be significantly reduced.
For a flower, it is better to immediately determine its place. It is better not to rearrange fuchsia during flowering., because it can throw off the buds and even leaves because of this. In warmer months, fuchsia can be taken out on the balcony or in the garden. However, it needs to be taught to new things gradually in order to avoid burns.
Temperature
During the period of active growth and flowering (in spring and summer), fuchsia feels better at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. In summer, especially in August, it can be taken out into the fresh air. However, when the temperature rises above 30 degrees, the plant may begin to shed flowers, then leaves, and may even dry out.
High air temperature is destructive for fuchsia
Therefore, under such conditions, the flower must be protected from the sun's rays and try to put it in a cooler place. In hot conditions, sensitive roots must be protected. A large ceramic is the best option as its plastic counterpart heats up very quickly.
In winter, the optimum temperature for fuchsia is 5-12 degrees.... Such conditions can be on a cold windowsill, a glazed and insulated balcony, or near balcony doors. At this time, the plant is dormant, and the low temperature of the content is the key to abundant flowering in the subsequent growth period.
Fuchsia can tolerate room temperature in winter. But then the flower sheds part of the leaves and stretches out strongly, and in the spring it will bloom weakly or not at all please with buds.
Fuchsia loves fresh air, but does not tolerate drafts... When airing a room, it is important to consider these factors.
Watering
In spring and summer, during active growth and flowering, fuchsia requires abundant watering. However, you cannot overdo it with this - the roots may begin to rot, and the plant will die. Watering should be done when the topsoil in the pot is a little dry... The water should be settled, soft, at room temperature.
As the flowering comes to an end, watering is reduced. In winter, if the room is cool (up to 12 degrees), you need to water the plant 1-2 times a month.
Fuchsia is very demanding for watering and does not tolerate drying out of the soil. Complete drying of the earthen coma leads to the death of the plant. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil in the flower pot. With a lack of moisture, the leaves drop and look lethargic, and the plant itself can shed flowers and buds.
During the cool wintering, the soil in the fuchsia pot should remain moist. The reduction in watering is due to the fact that at low temperatures and excess moisture, pathogenic fungi rapidly multiply, leading to root rot. But excessive dryness of the earth in winter is just as harmful to the plant as in summer.
The soil for fuchsias should be fertile, contain enough humus and retain water well.
You can buy ready-made slightly acidic soil in the store - suitable substrate for flowering plants... Or cook it yourself. Examples of composition:
- Peat, deciduous soil, sand (2: 3: 1);
- Greenhouse land, clay-sod land, sand (2: 3: 1), a little peat crumb;
- Peat, sand, leafy and sod land, humus (1: 1: 1: 1: 1).
In the composition of the best soil mixtures for fuchsia, peat should be no more than 1/5. This material tends to dry out at the top of the pot and retain moisture at the bottom. Therefore, a large amount of peat leads to stagnation of water at the roots of the plant, which is imperceptible, since the top layer of the earth dries out quickly. This leads to disease of the root system and even death of the plant.
During flowering and growth, fuchsia needs regular feeding, especially nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Purchased fertilizers are suitable for flowering plants or specifically for fuchsias... Nitrogen is relevant for young plants - it stimulates growth, potassium and phosphorus - for adults - enhance flowering.
Mineral can be alternated with organic. Sometimes it is appropriate to carry out foliar dressing - spraying on the lower part of the leaves - with a weak fertilizer solution.
Top dressing is carried out every 7-10 days in spring and summer, during the rest period they are stopped.
Humidity
High humidity is ideal for fuchsia. Therefore, especially on hot summer days, it is recommended to spray it with a spray bottle in the morning and evening.
A container of water can be placed near the plant. This will also increase the humidity in the environment. If the plant does not have buds and flowers, you can arrange a warm shower for it.
During the rest period, high humidity can harm... Therefore, from autumn to the end of winter, water procedures are stopped.
Spraying on hot summer days in the morning and evening.
Diseases
Consider how to care for fuchsia at home during illness. The main ones affecting fuchsia are whitefly and spider mites. To get rid of them, the plant needs to be “redeemed” in warm soapy water. If this does not help, then a three-time treatment with Fitoverm or Aktara is indicated with an interval of 7 days.
Diseases affecting fuchsia - black leg on young cuttings, rust on the leaves. It is better to get rid of infected plants.
Due to excessive moisture in the soil, the plant can be affected by root rot. The first symptom of this disease is loss of leaf elasticity. Leaves sag, as if there is a lack of moisture. Therefore, inexperienced growers tend to water the plant, exacerbating the course of the disease. Usually, a flower affected by root rot cannot be saved. It is recommended to cut and root cuttings from healthy shoots.
Problems
Reproduction
Now let's study the reproduction of fuchsia at home by cuttings. The simplest and most effective way to propagate fuchsia is by cuttings. Propagated by its apical and stem cuttings. They are harvested in early spring during planned formative pruning. But you can cut off and root your favorite stalk at any other time of the year except winter.
Cuttings are cut from healthy, strong shoots... They must be at least 7 cm in length and have several internodes. Root them in water or soil.
The easiest way to root in water. The cuttings are placed in a shallow glass with boiled water at room temperature. After 2-3 weeks, the first roots appear. When they reach a length of 4-5 cm, the cuttings can be planted in separate pots.
For rooting in the ground, you can take washed river sand or a mixture of garden soil with peat in equal parts. Cuttings are dropped into a moistened substrate and placed in partial shade. The substrate is moistened as it dries. Cuttings take longer to root in soil than in water. Sometimes it takes 1 month or more for them to develop a root system.
For the propagation of fuchsia, root growth stimulants are usually not used. Up to 100% of cuttings take root in water and soil.
Rooted cuttings are planted in small pots filled with fuchsia soil. It is recommended to plant several cuttings at once in one pot in order to get an ornamental and lush plant. They are regularly watered and kept in partial shade for the first 2 weeks. Then the seedlings are gradually accustomed to bright diffused lighting.
Below you will learn how to propagate fuchsia at home using seeds.
Transfer
Fuchsia is transplanted in early spring before the beginning of the growing season. Young plants, the root system of which is developing rapidly, are transplanted annually. Adult flowers need every 2-3 years or even less. Fuchsia does not tolerate transplanting well, therefore, until its roots have outgrown the pot, this procedure is not carried out.
To transplant fuchsia at home, you need a small and low pot. It should be 1-1.5 cm wider than the previous one.
You should not transplant a flower into a spacious pot - problems with flowering may arise. Until the roots of fuchsia have mastered the entire earthen lump, it will increase the leaf mass, but not bloom. Therefore, it blooms best in cramped pots.
Drainage must be laid at the bottom of the flower pot to drain excess water. In addition to pebbles and expanded clay, you can put pieces of charcoal there to protect the root system from rot.
The plant is transplanted by transshipment in order to damage the roots as little as possible. It is carefully removed from the pot along with the earth and transferred to a new pot.
To fill the volume, use fresh earthy mixture for fuchsia. The plant should not be deeply buried. After the transplant, it should be no lower than before. After the end of the procedure, the flower is watered and placed in partial shade for 1-2 weeks.
Plant care in winter
The most difficult thing in caring for fuchsia is organizing a cool winter for this plant. Further growth and flowering of the plant depends on this. The main task of keeping fuchsia in winter is to slow down its growth. Therefore, the air temperature is reduced as much as possible, but it should not fall below 5 ° C. Also, timely moistening of the soil and good lighting are important.
Best of all, fuchsia winters on a warmed and glazed balcony or loggia... Here, in winter, the temperature is suitable for wintering. Also, in these conditions, the plant can be provided with good lighting, which is also important for the preservation of powerful shoots.
How to water fuchsia in winter?
During the rest period, fuchsia is rarely watered. At low temperatures, the soil in the pot dries out very slowly, so it is watered no more than 2 times a month.
Waterlogging in such conditions is detrimental to the flower, since there is a high risk of developing pathogenic fungal infections. During cold wintering, the flower does not need spraying.
If it is not possible to transfer the flower to a cold room, you can organize wintering on the windowsill.
For growing fuchsia, choose the coldest window sill, remote from the radiators and facing the southeast. It can be quite cold in such a place in winter. To lower the temperature, you can open the window for light ventilation.
It is impossible to set a sufficiently low temperature on the windowsill in the apartment, so the flower will grow. But its growth will be much less than at room temperature. And good lighting will prevent the shoots from stretching, which will ensure abundant flowering in the summer.
Now you know the features of caring for fuchsia in winter at home.
Growing fuchsia from seeds
Consider growing fuchsia from seed at home. Fuchsia can be propagated by seed, although this is extremely rare in indoor culture. This method is very laborious, it is much more difficult than vegetative propagation of a plant. However, some growers still grow varietal specimens from seeds.
Fuchsia seeds can be purchased at specialty stores or garden centers. However, it is advisable to take them from trusted suppliers. It is often possible to buy expired seeds, the germination of which greatly decreases over time.
You can also get fuchsia seeds at home. To do this, you need to have 2 flowering plants. The flower is artificially pollinated, after which a fruit grows from it. Fully ripe fruits are removed and cut to dry the seeds. Then they are taken out and stored for no more than 1 year.
The best time to sow seeds is late March or early April. They are sown in small containers filled with moistened peat soil. To prepare such a soil, you need to mix peat and coarse sand in equal parts. Seeds should not be covered with substrate. They need to be laid out on top and lightly pressed into it.
The container with seeds is covered with transparent film or glass and kept at a temperature of 15-20 ° C. Every day, the film must be removed for 10-15 minutes for airing. The first shoots appear in such conditions after 2 weeks.
When the first leaf appears in the seedlings, the film is removed daily for a longer time, accustoming them to new conditions of existence. After 1-2 weeks, they are completely opened. The seedlings are kept in bright, but diffused light and periodically sprayed with water at room temperature.
When the seedlings have 3 leaves, they can be planted in separate pots. They are transplanted with a lump of earth, adding soil to the pot for growing adult fuchsias. After transplanting for 1 week, they are placed in partial shade for adaptation.
Photo of fuchsia in the process of care at home and in the garden:
Video
We recommend that you watch a useful video on the topic of the article:
Now you know everything about caring for and growing fuchsia at home, as well as transplanting and propagating a plant.
Exotic fuchsia does not bloom at home - is the microclimate at home suitable? We create all the conditions for the flowering of fuchsia.
Understanding what fuchsia needs to bloom is half the battle in getting it to form inflorescences. The plant belongs to shrubs with a habitat in the central regions of America. Can be found in New Zealand. Bringing the idea of planting fuchsia at home from a trip, you successfully performed the procedures, and even managed to get beautiful plants, but flowering did not come. Let's figure out why.
Home care for fuchsia for flowering:
- Abundant lighting;
- Air temperature from 20 to 30 ° С;
- Spraying;
- Placement on east windows;
- Introduction of biofertilizers;
Fuchsia bloom at home depends on the amount of lighting. In the spring-summer period, when foliage is growing and buds are forming, you need to place the plant on the east, west or south-west windows. Avoid exposure to direct sunlight and heat. Try to provide neutral fuchsia care in the summer, but in early spring there is a lot to roam. It is advised to highlight fuchsia in the evening to increase the length of daylight hours. This is effective not only on cloudy days, but also in summer, when fuchsia is closed from the active sun. You can also reduce root overheating and protect the fuchsia bloom by planting it in a ceramic pot that keeps it cool.
To maintain an optimal moisture level, the plant needs to be not only watered, but also sprayed , which will create a comfortable flowering environment. spraying is best done in the morning, but evening is not excluded, but during the day, moisturizing the leaves is strictly prohibited. In the summer, to prolong the flowering of fuchsia, you need to place a tray with wet pebbles.
Top dressing is based on the introduction of ready-made biologically active fertilizers once a week to stimulate flowering. You can start feeding from the end of March, when the plant wakes up completely after the winter dormant period.
Why doesn't fuchsia bloom? 
After analyzing the above proposed care methods, it is possible to single out a number of exact reasons why fuchsia does not bloom.
Why fuchsia does not bloom at home:
- Heat;
- Lack of lighting;
- Excess moisture;
- Lack of dressing;
In order to bring fuchsia out of the state of somnambulism and make it bloom, need to be moved to a place with diffused lighting, water and spray moderately, fertilize with a mineral complex, focusing on phosphorus and potash elements. Plant buds will not keep you waiting if there are no other significant problems that would prevent their appearance.
Fuchsia diseases:
- Rust;
- Gray rot;
Fuchsia pests:
- Ticks;
- Caterpillars;
Get rid of aphids and ticks, which, moreover, "leave" rust behind you can with soapy water and mechanical removal, but if the degree of damage is severe - insecticides. Caterpillars remove from the sheets and also use point direction preparations or aerosols.
Insecticides:
- Actelli;
- "AntiTlya";
- BI-58;
- "Decis";
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